Introduction
Begin: Métro Havre Caumartin (Lines 3 and 9)End: Métro Tuileries (Line 1)Time: One and a half hours, plus time in the Opéra Garnier and the department stores (if you like to shop).IntroductionYou must have some knowledge of Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann, the prefect of the department of the Seine, and the role he played in laying out the Paris we know today. Baron Haussmann, under the direction of Napoleon III, directed the transformation of Paris into a modern city from 1852 to 1870.Under no government was the city so drastically restructured as under Napoléon III and Haussmann. A new network of streets tore into the old structures and opened up the medieval core; 20,000 buildings [many of them old slums] were torn down and 40,000 new ones erected. . . . More than 30,000 buildings were equipped with direct water connections, and the most modern sewer system in the world . . . was created. . . . Haussman always tried to have his new streets end in dramatic focal points—straight axes, uniform façades, star-shaped squares, and a deliberate sense of proportion between the width of a street and the height of the structures along it. . . . Haussmann’s main achievement on the Right Bank was the design of the large Place de l’Etoile surrounding the Arc de Triomphe [that] boasted 12 radiating allées.1Another name you will surely get to know is that of Charles Garnier, a contemporary of Baron Haussmann. Garnier designed the architectural masterpiece we currently call the Opéra Garnier, or officially, the palais Garnier—“temple de l’art lyrique et chorégraphique.” 2NOTES1. Bussmann, K. Dumont Guide to Paris and the Ile de France, 1984, pp. 89–91.2. Official web site of the Opéra National de Paris. www.operadeparis.fr
#1 Baron Haussmann’s influence
Begin the walk by exiting the Havre Caumartin métro station onto boulevard Haussmann and going to the corner of rue Tronchet and rue du Havre.Look up and down the long boulevard Haussmann and down rue Tronchet, noting the right angles of these two large streets and how rue Tronchet focuses attention on the columns at the back of l’église de la Madeleine. Also, note the overall uniform heights of the buildings and the pleasing proportion of width of these main streets to the height of the buildings along them. This is but a small sample of Baron Haussmann’s work that transformed Paris.
#2 Au Printemps
Orient yourself so that you’re standing on the sidewalk in front of the Printemps department store, the Madeleine on your right and the department store on your left.On most days, you cannot help but notice the vendors from the department store in the booths under the awnings over the wide sidewalks. Au Printemps is a large department store consisting of several buildings connected by covered skywalks. Go in and look around—I’m always attracted by the pleasant odors coming from the perfume counters! Even if you don’t want to buy anything, it is fun to window shop and simply browse inside Printemps or other grand stores at the beginning of this walk.As you walk along, enjoy the decorations in the windows of Printemps. As part of its publicity campaign, Printemps publishes maps of Paris for tourists—you might have one with you right now. Across the street from Printemps is C&A (a nice department store, but not too expensive) and a little further down on your left is H&M, also a clothing store.
#3 Galeries Lafayette
The next large department store on your right and left is Galeries Lafayette. Cross rue de Mogador to the main building.Like Printemps, Galeries Lafayette is a large department store consisting of several buildings. Go into the main building and walk to the center of the store. Look up to discover why the department store is called “Galeries” Lafayette. Notice the stained glass that forms the dome, the carvings and railings on the galleries. Go upstairs for a nice view of the inside of the store from one of the galleries.
#4 Palais Garnier (Opéra Garnier)
Exit Galeries Lafayette and cross place Diaghilev toward the back of the opera house. Walk around to the front of the opera house on place de l'Opéra. Go to the entrance of the métro station directly in front of the Opéra Garnier.Standing by the chain near the entrance to the métro in front of the opera, you may look to your right and left—up and down boulevard des Capucines and boulevard des Italiens. Straight ahead, with the opera to your back, is avenue de l’Opéra. The palais Royal and the palais du Louvre are at the far end. Again, notice the right angles and how avenue de l’Opéra focuses on the palais Garnier and the Opéra Garnier—thanks to Haussmann.The sumptuous palais Garnier, also known as the Opéra Garnier (and also former home of l'Académie Nationale de Musique) is one of the most beautiful attractions of Paris, both inside and out. “Built at the behest of Napoleon III, this is one of the most remarkable architectural achievements of the 19th century. The quasi-Gothic use of material and the quality of voluptuousness, luxury, and wealth epitomize the era.”*While Garnier designed the building for opera, today it is used mostly for ballet. The relatively new opera house at the place de la Bastille is the current venue for most opera. The Opéra Garnier is definitely worth a visit. Buy tickets on the left side of the opera house, behind the gilded bust of Charles Garnier. There is a bookshop (librairie) on the right side of the opera building. Gaston Leroux’s novel thePhantom of the Opera(1909) and the many adaptations of the story, including Andrew Lloyd Webber's musical, have added to the fame of this wonderful building. (Yes, there is a lake under the opera house—a very small one!)Before you head down rue de la Paix, you might want to stop for a Perrier or a Badoit at Café de la Paix—the large café on the corner. It’s expensive, but almost every French student in the world has heard of Café de la Paix, and you’d be able to say, “I’ve been there!”NOTES*Desmons, G. Walking Paris, 1999, p. 116.
#5 Rue de la Paix and place Vendôme
Cross place de l’Opéra and boulevard des Capucines. Staying to the right, walk down rue de la Paix toward place Vendôme.Rue de la Paix is lined with luxury boutiques, like the marble-faced Cartier Jewelers at Number 13. Once on place Vendôme, you will see even more luxury shops such as Christian Dior, Cartier, and Chanel. (I don’t think you will be able to buy a Nutella crêpe or a sandwich grecque here!) On the far right are the Ministère de la Justice and the Hôtel Ritz. (Princess Diana died in fatal car crash just minutes after leaving the Ritz Hôtel.) Some of the famous people who have lived on place Vendôme include Chopin, Puccini, Danton, and John Law. In 1699, place Vendôme was turned into a royal square and called place Louis-le-Grand, referring to Louis XIV. Note the matching façades around the square with Corinthian pilasters (columns built into the exterior walls). Eventually, wealthy speculators purchased the plots behind the façades primarily for private residences. During the French Revolution, the statue of Louis XIV on the square was melted down and the square was renamed place des Piques (spikes). Under Napoléon, the square was once again called place Vendôme, one of its original names. The 140-foot column in the middle of the square was erected in 1806 to celebrate Napoléon’s victory at Austerlitz; over twelve hundred Austrian cannons were melted down to create the column. That’s Napoléon in a Roman costume on the top.
#6 Rue Saint-Honoré
Leave place Vendôme at the far end opposite from where you entered and turn left to 350 rue Saint-Honoré, on the left side of the street.If your timing is right, the doors to 350 rue Saint-Honoré will be open, and you will get a glimpse of a beautiful courtyard.
#7 L'église Saint-Roch
Keep walking until you come to l'église Saint-Roch, at 296 rue Saint-Honoré on your left.The foundation stone of l'église Saint-Roch was laid by Louis XIV in 1653. The church is worth a visit. I find the works of art and their presentation stunning.
#8 Place des Pyramides
The next street after l'église Saint-Roch is rue des Pyramides. Turn right down this street and walk the short distance to place des Pyramides.In the middle of place des Pyramides is a nineteenth-century statue of Joan of Arc. The extreme-right political party of Jean-Marie Le Pen, theFront National, has adopted Joan of Arc as its symbol. This square is often the sight of rallies and protests in support of the Rassemblement national (formerly the Front National). Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc) is the most celebrated heroine of France. In 1429, at age sixteen, she went to Orléans (south of Paris) to help save Charles VII from the English by rallying the troops loyal to the king and encouraging Charles VII himself. In 1430, she fell into the hands of enemies of the king who turned her over to the English. She was burned at the stake as a heretic in 1431. The inspiration resulting from her actions helped bring about the end of the Hundred Years War when the English were finally chased from France.
The End
Rue de Rivoli is the street with the open arcades that passes in front of the mounted Joan of Arc. Turn right and the Tuileries métro station is on the left side of the street as you walk toward place de la Concorde on the sidewalk next to the jardin des Tuileries.After the WalkReturn to the Opéra Garnier and place Vendôme at night to see the illumination. The illumination of monuments and buildings is one of the reasons why Paris is called la Ville-Lumière—the “City of Light.” (For more insight on this phrase, see the additional information for this walk.) If you didn’t go inside the Opéra Garnier during the walk, definitely return for a visit. If you can, attend an opera or a ballet at the Opéra Garnier—it will be an experience you’ll never forget!
