Introduction
Begin: Mairie (town hall) of the Eighteenth Arrondissement on place Jules Joffrin—take métro line 12 to Jules Joffrin for a fun bus ride to place des Abbesses or take the métro directly to Abbesses (Line 12).End: Métro Blanche (Line 2)Time: Two to three hoursIntroductionEverybody who comes to Paris has to go to Montmartre to see the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, the white, pointed-dome church on the hill that overlooks the capital. The basilica is nice, but there is much more to see in this old village that is now part of Paris. On this walk, you will visit a few areas most people don’t usually take the time to see.Montmartre is the highest point in the city. The butte (hill) has long been considered sacred. The Romans built two temples here, Louis VI had an abbey built here in 1133, and the Catholics of France, with the support of the government, built the Basilica of the Sacred Heart here between 1876 and 1914. Even the name Montmartre has religious connotations—martyr’s mound! Obviously, the population of Montmartre has changed over the years, and in the nineteenth century, it was better known for the bohemian lifestyle of many who lived here, including numerous impressionist painters. During the walk, you’ll see places where some of the impressionists lived and worked.
#1 Place des Abbesses
There are two ways to begin this walk. My favorite way is to go to place Jules Joffrin (métro stop Jules Joffrin on Line 12) and take the Montmartrobus in the direction of Pigalle for a fun ride up the hill. Catch the Montmartrobus at the bus stop across from 30 rue Hermel. Rue Hermel is on the east side of the Mairie of the Eighteenth Arrondissement, the left side while facing the Mairie. If you take the bus, get off at place des Abbesses.On place des Abbesses, note especially the beautiful art nouveau métro entrance designed by Hector Guimard. (For more information about Hector Guimard, see Walks 2 and 14.) Your first destination is the Sacré Coeur Basilica.
#2 The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre
Leave place des Abbesses by going left on rue Yvonne Le Tac. You want to get to the Funiculaire train, so watch for the signs with arrows. Follow rue Yvonne Le Tac to rue Tardieu and continue straight onto place Suzanne Valadon. You can get to the basilica by riding the Funiculaire (one métro ticket or your Navigo pass), taking the stairs to the left of the Funiculaire, or walking through Square Louise Michel directly in front of the basilica.From the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre, you have a nice view of the city. Which landmarks can you pick out? The steps in front of the church are always filled with tourists and there are usually street entertainers, such as puppeteers and musicians. (You may remember the scenes from the movie Amélie that were shot in Square Louise Michel.) The last time I was here, I had the pleasure of listening to an accordion player.Go into the basilique. There is plenty of documentation on why the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre was built after the disastrous Franco-Prussian war of 1870. Some students like to go to the top for the view.
#3 The Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
Come out of the basilique and turn right on rue Azaïs (do not take rue du Cardinal Guibert, the street that goes along the side of the basilica). Then turn right on rue Saint-Éleuthère and stop at the little église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre on your right.The Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre has been a parish church since 1147 CE.
#4 Place du Tertre
To get to your next destination, the oldest house on Montmartre, you need to cross place du Tertre—a real tourist trap. Place du Tertre is across from the church and a little to the left.As you cross place du Tertre, ignore all the people who want to paint your picture or sell you a trinket! Imagine what the square used to be like with real painters all around hoping to make a little money by selling a painting. Now, place du Tertre has been taken over by restaurants and hawkers!
#5 Rue Cortot
Go straight around the square and out the opposite side from where you came in. Walk down rue Norvins to Number 9 on the left. Turn right on rue des Saules; go down the hill, and then right on rue Cortot.Note the interesting houses at 20 and 22 rue Cortot.
#6 Musée de Montmartre
Walk up rue Cortot to the musée de Montmartre on the left at Numbers 12–14.Number 12 rue Cortot is the oldest house on Montmartre, built in the early twelfth century and houses the musée de Montmartre. If you wish, visit the museum, especially to see the restored house and the nice gardens. Renoir and several other well-known artists lived and painted in this house. Inside, you can see Toulouse-Lautrec originals and read about the 1871 Paris Commune.
#7 Rue des Saules
Go back down the hill to rue des Saules, turn right, and go down the hill to the small vineyard on the right.Located on the rue des Saules, this small vineyard is all that remains of the vineyards that once dominated the hill. There’s a nice place to stop and relax across the street from the vineyard on the corner. In addition, the oldest cabaret in Paris, Au Lapin Agile, is at 22 rue des Saules.
#8 La Maison rose
Go back up rue des Saules, to La Maison rose (Pink House) restaurant that is on the right.Formerly the home of the artist Utrillo (1883–1955), La Maison rose was once a favorite of Pablo Picasso and Gertrude Stein.
#9 Renoir home
Walk down rue del l'Abreuvoir and in front of the Dalida bust, and then go straight into allée des Brouillards.Pierre Auguste Renoir lived at 6 allée des Brouillards.
#10 Saint Denis
At the end of the allée, go down the steps and into the small park (Square Suzanne Buisson) across the way.Note: On the left, under the covered area you will see toilettes publiques. Depending on the season, this restroom may be open. As you walk through the park, note the statue (on your left) of saint Denis holding his head. Beheaded by the Romans in the third century saint Denis then, according to legend, carried his head down the north side of Montmartre before collapsing. The Basilique de Saint-Denis was built on that spot about two hundred years later.You might say the statue of saint Denis overlooks (as much as one can while holding your head in your hands) the boules pit. The game of boules is kind of a cross between bowling and horseshoes.
#11 Bateau-lavoir
At the end of the park, turn left on avenue Junot and walk up rue Norvins to number 9 and turn right and walk along the sidewalk on the left to rue Ravignan. Turn right and follow rue Ravignan down around the bend to place Emile Goudeau, the square with a fountain in the middle.At Number 11b place Emile Goudeau is the so-called Bateau-lavoir (laundry-boat). About nine or ten artistes lived and worked in the former piano factory that was turned into cheap apartments. With the availability of cheap apartments, the Bateau-lavoir became an artist colony. Max Jacob, Pablo Picasso, George Braque, Guillaume Apollinaire, and others lived here before World War I. One of the artists supposedly said where they lived looked like one of the laundry-boats on the Seine!
#12 Moulin de la Galette
Go back up rue Ravignan a few steps and turn left onto rue d’Orchampt. It looks like a dead-end street, but it turns to the right and exits onto rue Lepic.As you exit on rue Lepic, you’ll find the windmill turned outdoor-dance-hall called Moulin de la Galette. Renoir’s Bal du Moulin de la Galette—a marvelous example of Impressionist art—depicts a small crowd enjoying themselves on a Sunday afternoon at this once-popular spot. Renoir’s painting is in the Orsay Museum. He painted this work while living in the house that is now le musée de Montmartre that you saw earlier on rue Cartot.
#13 Rue Lepic
Go down rue Lepic—that’s left when you’re facing Moulin de la Galette—and go around the bend. Between Numbers 49 and 47 rue Lepic, on the right side of the street, you’ll find rue Tourlaque. Go the few steps down this street to where it intersects with rue Caulaincourt.Look at the corner building in which Toulouse Lautrec lived, at 5 rue Tourlaque / 22 rue Caulaincourt.Now go back to rue Lepic. Cross the street, turn right, and walk to #54. This is where Vincent Van Gogh lived.
The End
To finish the walk, stay on the same side of the street that Van Gogh lived on and go to Number 36. Cross the street at Number 36—do not go left on rue des Abbesses or right on rue de Maistre—but keep going down rue Lepic. All the way down to the end of rue Lepic is place Blanche. To your right you’ll see the Moulin Rouge nightclub and, across the street, the Blanche métro station.After the WalkIf you need refreshment, there are numerous little sandwich and pastry shops in the area, but beware of those with higher prices; choose carefully. Since you have only seen a few sites on Montmartre, you might want to do a little research and then return to explore the hill yourself. How about a trip out to Saint-Denis to see the Basilique de Saint-Denis, built where Saint Denis finally collapsed after his headless walk from Montmartre? The basilica is the burial place for many of the kings and queens of France. Take métro Line 13 to Basilique de Saint-Denis.
