Introduction
Begin: Métro Champs-Elysées Clemenceau (Lines 1 and 13)End: Métro Tuileries (Line 1)Time: One to two hours (plus time in the musée de l'Orangerie)On this walk, you will see a few of the sites that make Paris both famous and beautiful: le palais de i'Élysée,le Faubourg Saint-Honoré, la place de la Concorde, and le jardin des Tuileries. This is a relatively short walk in distance, but it is crammed with history. Plan on stopping from time-to-time along the way to learn a little about what you’re seeing, and read the historical tidbits provided in this guide. If you find something that interests you, do a little research and return for a closer look. The two art museums in the jardin des Tuileriesdon’t fit into the historical nature of the other sites along the walk; however, the musée de l'Orangerie is especially worth a visit during this walk or at another time.Robert Erickson
#1 Place Clemenceau
Begin by exiting from métro Champs-Elysées Clemenceau station onto avenue des Champs-Elysées; you’ll be on place Clemenceau. Orient yourself by facing the avenue, with the Arc de Triomphe on your left and the place de la Concorde on your right. (Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais are behind you; they are part of Walk 4.) As you cross the avenue onto avenue de Marigny, you will see the French flag flying above the palais de l’Elysée (Elysée Palace) at the end of the street and on the right. This is your first destination. Stay on the sidewalk to your left and walk in front of the Théâtre Marigny.On place Clemenceau, you will see a statue of Charles de Gaulle dressed in his military uniform. This is a good place to start this walk, because, in many ways, de Gaulle defines contemporary France and its place in the world. Note the inscription on the side of the pedestal referring to the liberation of Paris at the end of World War II:ParisParis outragé (outraged)Paris brisé (broken or bleeding)Paris martyrisé (martyred)Mais Paris libéré (released or liberated)The inscription sums up the experience of the French people in general, and the city specifically, as it was targeted during the war.On a lighter note, the Théâtre Marigny was designed in 1853 by Garnier, the future architect of the famous Opéra, to host a panorama. For many years a theatre-in-the-round for musical spectacles, it hosted mainly operettas through the 1930s. As it has changed hands over time, its use has varied slightly, but it remains an interesting and useful facility.
#2 Place de la Concorde
Walk straight toward avenue Gabriel.Jacques-Ange Gabriel was the royal architect for Louis XV and was selected to design what we now call the place de la Concorde. If you are here on a Thursday or Saturday, look for the open-air stamp market between the Théâtre Marigny and avenue Gabriel.During the French Revolution, the square—the largest in Paris and known as place Louis XV in honor of that king—was renamed place de la Révolution, the statue of King Louis XVI was torn down, and a guillotine was erected. It was here that King Louis XVI, his queen Marie Antoinette, Maximilien Robespierre, and others were executed over a period of three years. In 1795, the square was named place de la Concorde. Although the name changed again several times, the designation of place de la Concorde has continued since 1830.
#3 Hôtel Marigny
Now cross avenue Gabriel, keeping to your left, and walk toward the end of avenue de Marigny.The sidewalk to your right is not open to the public because the palais de l’Elysée is on the other side of the wall. As you walk toward the end of avenue de Marigny, note how the majority of the cars parked in front of the government buildings on the left are facing the street, all ready for a quick departure. Near the end of the street, you will see a set of large wooden doors.Check out the beautiful light fixtures and the initials “RF” carved into the stone above the doors. RF stands for République française. This building is the Hôtel Marigny, built in 1869. (In this context, hôtel means exclusive, private residence.) Since 1972, the Hôtel Marigny has belonged to France. The government uses it as a residence for guests representing foreign governments.At the end of street, across from the kiosk, you’ll see a Pierre Cardin boutique—a preview of the shops that line rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
#4 Palais de l’Elysée
Cross Place Beauvau, toward the gilded gates of the Ministry of the Interior. Walk in front of the gates toward rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Immediately across the street is the palais de l’Élysée, the residence and offices of the president of the French Republic.When the French media refers to the president of the republic, they often simply say “l'Élysée,” just like the US media says “the White House” when referring to the president of the United States. Unfortunately, you can’t visit the palais de l’Élysée, but through the gates, you can see into la cour d’honneur (the Court of Honor).This truly exclusive hôtel was built between 1718 and 1722. It is one of the best examples of the classical architecture so popular at the beginning of the eighteenth century. Before the French Revolution, several ambassadors stayed here, and during the revolution, it became a dance hall! The Emperor Napoléon lived here for a while beginning in 1809, and Joséphine, Napoléon’s wife, remained here after their divorce until Napoléon demanded it back in 1812. Later, in 1815, following his defeat by the English and Prussians at Waterloo, Napoléon signed his second abdication in the palais de l'Élysée. It has been the residence of the president of the French Republic since 1874.
#5 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Continue walking down rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré toward rue Boissy d’Anglas.Upscale boutiques selling designer clothes and expensive perfumeline the rue Boissy d’Anglas. Sotheby’s Auction House is on rue de Duras, the first street to the left. Across the street, just to the left of the Elysée Palace, on rue de l’Elysée, is another group of government buildings.On the right side of rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, you will see the Embassy of Colombia. The US flag further down the street on the right is the US ambassador’s residence. The Union Jack above the entrance on the right marks the British ambassador’s residence, and to the left of the residence is the British Embassy. You can imagine the wonderful courtyards and gardens behind the entryways into the ambassadors’ residences.If you’re lucky, some of the main doors off rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré will be open to see into the courtyards of the boutiques. Most of these “houses” don’t allow people to come in and just look around—only those who want to spend money! Some of the boutiques to notice: Mont Blanc (pens and gifts), Yves Saint-Laurent, Lancôme, Chanel, Cartier, Hermès, and Lanvin—how’s that for name-dropping? I find it fun to look at the window displays, drool over the nice clothes, and imagine having the money to buy the perfume.
#6 Rue Boissy d’Anglas
Turn right on rue Boissy d’Anglas toward place de la Concorde.On this street, you will see two of the most exclusive hôtels in Paris—here the word really means hotel. On the right is Hôtel Paris le Faubourg (part of the Sofitel chain). Hôtel de Crillon, the most exclusive and expensive hôtel in Paris, is on the left near the end of street—you can’t miss it! Now look above the blocked-off doors on the right at Numbers 3 and 5 rue Boissy d’Anglas. Do you see the carvings of American eagles? This is the US Embassy—your next destination.
#7 The US Embassy
At the end of the street is the place de la Concorde. Go across avenue Gabriel into the park directly across from the United States Embassy.Needless to say, the US Embassy is a well-guarded building! The embassy is not open to tourists. Take a break in the park, and read about the embassy and place de la Concorde. France is the oldest ally of the US, with diplomatic relations stretching back more than 225 years. Their histories, from the American Revolution to the allied landings in Normandy during World War II, have often been intertwined. France and the US maintain vibrant and mutually beneficial economic ties. Every business day, the US and France engage in approximately $1 billion in commercial transactions. French investment in the US generates over 500,000 jobs for Americans; while US investment in France provides nearly 600,000 jobs. US ambassadors to France have included some of the founding fathers: Benjamin Franklin, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, and James Madison. The Chancellery (embassy building) was built in 1932. It was the last building completed on historic place de la Concorde.Construction began on the place de la Concorde in 1757 to honor Louis XV. Imagine the square as Gabriel, the royal architect, designed it; a magnificent square at a significant crossroad (rue Royale going north south between the l’église de la Madeleine and the palais Bourbon, and the boulevard going west from the gardens of the palais du Louvre through the Champs-Elysée). Imagine the square surrounded by a moat with only four entrances over four bridges, one on each of the four main axes. It took twenty years to build the square as Gabriel had imagined it. The original name was place Louis XV.Note the impressive Corinthian columns and symmetry of the buildings on the north side of the place, flanking rue Royale. The one on the left is the Hôtel de Crillon (originally the residence of four noblemen). Benjamin Franklin, representing the thirteen independent States of America, signed a treaty with Louis XVI there in 1778. The one on the right is the Hôtel de la Marine; until 1792, it was a storehouse for royal furniture. These beautiful buildings were part of Gabriel’s plan. Just past the Hôtel de la Marine, on rue de Rivoli is the Hôtel Talleyrand. It was built in the eighteenth century and now belongs to the US Embassy. The George C. Marshall Center is located there.In 1792, the statue honoring Louis XV was toppled, and the name of the square was changed to place de la Révolution. A guillotine for Louis XVI was set up in the northwest corner (the corner closest to where the US Embassy now stands). His execution took place in January 1793. The guillotine was then moved to the east side of the square near the entrance to the jardin des Tuileries; there it claimed 1,343 more victims, including Marie-Antoinette (wife of Louis XVI), Danton, and Robespierre. Following the Reign of Terror, the square was renamed place de la Concorde, and in 1852, Napoléon III had the trench filled in.One more tidbit related to the revolution: the pont de la Concorde, the bridge going south across the Seine toward the Assemblée Nationale (palais Bourbon), was built out of stones from the destroyed Bastille prison.
#8 Luxor obelisk
You’ve probably read enough history for a few minutes. Stand up, stretch, and head toward the center of the place de la Concorde to the Luxor obelisk. (Take your time and obey the traffic lights!)The Luxor obelisk was a gift in 1829 to Charles X from Egyptian governor Mohammed Ali, who was courting the favor of the French government. The pink granite column is over three thousand years old and contains a dedication to the god Ammon and the pharaoh Ramses. It comes from the ruins of Luxor, an ancient city along the Nile.Look up the Champs-Elysées and imagine you’re sitting in the bleachers with the président de la République and numerous dignitaries for the military parade held 14 July, la fête nationale française—also called Bastille Day. You might also imagine the bicycle racers going around the historic place de la Concorde and up and down the chestnut-tree-lined avenue des Champs-Elysées as they finish the last leg of the tour de France.
#9 Jardin des Tuileries
Continue across the place de la Concorde into the jardin des Tuileries. (At the east end of the garden is the musée du Louvre.)The name of this beautiful park, jardin des Tuileries, means “tile works” because of the local clay used to make tuiles (tiles). Since about 1594, the gardens have been part of the palais du Louvre and the palais des Tuileries. In 1792, Louis XVI and his family fled from the palais des Tuileries (torched in 1871 and torn down in 1882) and across the gardens to escape the revolutionaries.Take the time to stroll through the park. It’s a wonderful example of a formal, symmetrical jardin à la française (as opposed to a more informal English garden). Keep in mind that the park has been extensively redone several times over the past four hundred years! There are two museums in the jardin des Tuileries. They were both built in the nineteenth century and both have been art museums since the beginning of the twentieth century. The newly renovated Galerie nationale du Jeu de Paume hosts temporary exhibits of contemporary and modern art and is in the northwest corner of the park. The musée de l’Orangerie (in the southeast corner) is a wonderful museum, housing works by Cézanne, Renoir, Derain, Picasso, Gauguin, Rousseau, Sisley, Matisse, and others. The Orangerie is most famous for Monet’s paintings of water lilies. The Nymphéas (water lilies) exhibit is a three-star attraction in most guidebooks, including this one!
#10 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
End your stroll through the park at the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, located in the courtyard of the musée du Louvre just west of the glass-pyramid entrance to the museum.The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel was built in 1806 to celebrate Napoléon’s victories. You’ll want to note the perspective from the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, across the place de la Concorde, up the avenue des Champs-Elysées, over the Arc de Triomphe, to the modern Grande Arche de la Défense—a photo op on a nice day.
The End
To exit the jardin des Tuileries, go back toward place de la Concorde. At the first fountain in the middle of the central alley, turn right toward rue de Rivoli. As you go out the gates, the Tuileries métro station is to your left.After the WalkCome back to the place de la Concorde at night for a spectacular sight when it’s illuminated. In addition, visit the musée de l'Orangerie if you didn’t do so on this walk (métro Concord).
