#1 Strolling the Gran Via
(This walk can be taken at any time. But if you want to avoid the jostling crowds and street hawkers, start early in the morning, before 8:00 a.m.) The Gran Via, or "Great Way", a street that puts Madrid on an equal footing with other European capitals, was conceived at the end of the 19th century as part of a plan to modernize the cities and streamline circulation in order to accommodate the new means of transportation of the industrial age. To accomplish this, many difficulties needed to be overcome: properties needed to be condemned, streets were slated to disappear and whole neighborhoods had to be eliminated. These difficulties slowed down the process significantly, and we should really talk about three distinct phases which encompass a span of 44 years—from the first demolitions in 1910 to 1954 when the last building was in place. Until the 1970's the avenue was the showplace of the rich bourgeoisie, with elegant shops and modern hotels, and was the meeting place of writers, poets, painters, etc. Each of the three construction periods showcase buildings that reflect the trends of the time and were commissioned to the most outstanding architects of the time using different building materials that were making their appearance then. Because of these construction stages, the street has an irregular appearance that contributes to its charm. Even when the first project was approved in 1886, the costs seemed prohibitive and it was consequently sidelined. In 1904, another group of architects formulated a new plan. In 1910, the works were finally officially inaugurated but it wasn't until 1917 that the demolition of the first tract took place between Alcalá and the Red de San Luis (where the McDonald's store is). The second segment up to Plaza del Callao was finished in 1921, and the third, ending in Plaza de España, took place between 1925 and 1929. The last portion was perhaps the most dramatic because of the amount of demolition it entailed.It is important to remember that at the time of construction, all of these buildings combined residential living with commercial space. This street was greatly favored by the rich upper class. As time went by, the high cost of rent and the changing attitudes of those that wanted to avoid pollution, crowds, and noise launched an exodus to the suburbs or other locations. Nowadays, very few people actually live on this street and the space has almost entirely been given over to commercial spaces, offices, and hotels.As you continue to walk up the street, stop to look at the buildings but also take time to look at the perspectives of the street. Even when you may have to flatten yourself against a building or stand close to the curb to avoid the crowds, it is absolutely exhilarating to take in the whole of the street, the buildings, and especially my favorite: the roof lines, terraces, towers, and other embellishments so popular in the civil architecture of the time.
#2 Metrópolis
From the very beginning of the Gran Vía where it angles off from Alcalá you will be treated to some of the “grandest” buildings of any capital city of the world, beginning with the Edificio Metrópolis on the sharp corner where the Gran Via separates from Alcalá. This building was not originally part of the master plan, but because of the extravagance of the French neo-baroque style, it is a wonderful beginning to the street. Two French architects, Jule and Raymond Fevrier, won the bid for the design, but it was built by the Spaniard Luis Esteve. It has a magnificent rounded zinc cupola with a base of Corinthian columns crowned by sculptures, in the French art nouveau style, that represent commerce, industry, and mining. Until 1975 it had been crowned with a sculpture that symbolized the major insurance company Unión y Fénix (that also has other interesting buildings in the Paseo de la Castellana and Recoletos).Notice that the buildings on each side of the street are numbered, the odd numbers on the south (left) side and the even numbers on the north (right) side. Unlike street numbering in the United States, the buildings in Spain, as in the rest of Europe, are numbered sequentially, not according to the number of the block they are in. Because there are often more buildings on one side of the street than on the other side, the even numbers on one side of the street and the odd numbers on the other side of the street, often do not line up with each other. Such will be the case as you walk the length of Gran Vía. Therefore, do not expect building #40 to be across the street from building #41.
#3 The Grassy Building
The Gran Via is the street to the right of the Metropolis Building. Walk up on the left side (looking up the street) of the Gran Via. You will notice that the dominant style of this first portion of the Gran Via reflects an eclectic style common to nearly all of the larger capitals of the world at the end of the 19th century and beginnings of the 20th century. The first building you will come to on the next corner up from the Metrópolis building, is Gran Vía # 1The Edificio Grassy has a rounded front and is very narrow. Built in 1917, it is another splendid eclectic structure with a set-back crowning tower, a feature used in many of the buildings you will see in the street. The tower and varied supports remind us of a fancy wedding cake with reliefs in the modernist style, also used in the entrance. The building houses a clock museum and has been home to one of the most luxurious jewelry stores of Madrid.
#4 Gran Peña
Across the street, at Gran Vía #2 is the 1916 Gran Peña, with a neo-baroque facade, a large terrace, and a set-back crowning tower. Construction lasted about two years. Notice the glassed second story that breaks the monotony of the facade. This building has been used to house a very exclusive gentleman’s club, similar to British gentlemen’s clubs.
#5 Banco Urquijo
Continue up Gran ViaGran Vía #4 is the 1916 Banco Urquijo, one of the buildings designed in what was called “rationalist style.” With some elements reminiscent of art deco, it was a simplified design that emphasized function more than form. Number 6 was also done by the same architects.
#6 Gran Via Number 10
Gran Vía #10 was built by the same company in the International style. Notice the zinc cupolas in the French style, the two large amphora and the sumptuous door with caryatids (a female figure used as a column to support an entablature). Alcalá #9, which now houses El Ministerio de Finanzas y la Función Pública (the Ministry of Finance and Public Function), was originally one of several buildings commissioned by an insurance company and built in a historical style called regionalism.
#7 Gran Via Number 13
Continue on Gran ViaGran Vía #13, on the far (west) corner with Calle de la Virgen de los Peligros, is one of the most interesting buildings of the Gran Via. It is built in the belle epoque style that was popular between the end of 19th century and World War I. Notice the outstanding glass covering of the entrance, the lights, and the sloped sides of the crowning tower. The whole building, inside and out, is a period jewel. The then-king, Alfonso XIII, great-grandfather of present king Felipe VI, officiated at the inauguration of the building in 1916. The building currently houses Centro Cutural de los Ejércitos, or the Cultural Center of the Armies.
#8 Gran Via Number 18
Across the street from number 13 is Gran Vía #18. (Remember, the numbers are the numbers of the buildings, not some number based on what block the building is in. Therefore, the odd and even numbers are not necessarily across from each other.) This building on the corner of Calle del Clavel, was built in 1915 by the architect Eduardo Reynals, whose brothers had already designed buildings numbered 7, 12, and 14 on this street. He designed the structure to house the luxury Hotel Roma. (This was a time when fancy hotels were being built all around Madrid to offer travellers the quality they expected. The famous Ritz Hotel and Palace Hotel were built in the Paseo del Prado to compete with hotels in the Gran Vía.) Notice the beautifully proportioned resolution of the main floor, the mezzanine, the three upper floors, the garret, and the imposing cornice. Still walking on the south side of the Gran Vía, about two doors west, Gran Via # 17, is the back entrance of the Real Oratorio del Caballero de Gracia, a neo-classical jewel that you can enter from both Gran Via or from the main entrance in the street called Caballero de Gracia, parallel to Gran Vía. This church has a beautiful neo-classical barrel vault ceiling.
#9 Círculo Mercantil
On the other side of the street at Gran Vía #24, on the corner with Calle de la Hortaleza, is the Círculo Mercantil, with its rounded tower and cupola and fine renaissance-style decorations. Though dwarfed by the buildings further west, it is one of the tallest and largest structures up to this point on the Gran Vía. It was opened in 1924, when it had an illustrious patronage until the 1970s and was finally closed down in the 80s. However, it has been restored and is presently open again. The building was well known due partly to the fact that many elegant and famous cafés were housed there. Of all those, Chicote was the better known. In its heyday it was the place of choice for all the movie stars, politicians and artists that came to drink cocktails mixed by the charismatic owner, Perico Chicote.
#10 Pi i Margall
The second segment of the Gran Vía walking tour is known as the Pi i Margall, so named for a famous Catalan statesman, and it starts from the Plaza Red de San Luis (by the Gran Via metro station) to the Plaza Callao.
#11 Red de San Luis
Still on the south side of the Gran Vía, where the Calle de la Montera (on the left) empties into the Gran Vía, is the Red de San Luis, a small circle in the midst of the traffic at the end of Calle de la Montera.Red de San Luis received its curious name because in this area bread was brought to this spot in large nets (red in Spanish) and was distributed to the poor. There are three entrances to the metro stop Gran Vía here. Originally, where the fountain is, the famous architect Antonio Palacios, who designed other very important structures in the Gran Vía and around Madrid, had built elevators to access the Metro stop. The area is presently fairly congested, and has tended to be a bit seedy. Because of its proximity to the Puerta del Sol, there are a lot of buses, taxis, etc. entering and leaving from this area.
#12 McDonald's
Cross the Calle de la Montera to the far side, still on the south side of Gran Vía.Gran Via #47, the corner building known as Calle de la Montera, used to be one of the most elegant accessories stores in Madrid. McDonald's purchased the corner in the 1970s, but when you walk in, you can still envision the select clientele that used those elegant marble interiors. The remnants of the bygone glories should encourage you to sample the refreshments. (McDonalds in Spain has great soft ice cream and otherwise inexpensive food for a major European capital). After being refreshed and impoverished, come back out to the Gran Vía.* The building just to the west of McDonald's, across the street from the Telefónica, is Gran Vía #25, the famous Hotel Tryp, where Hemingway customarily stayed.*Take note: Avoid walking down the Calle de la Montera at any time of the day or night; it is frequented by undesirables and can be dangerous.
#13 Telefónica
Directly across the Gran Vía from the fountain is Gran Vía #26, a large apartment building that makes a nice transition between the Círculo Mercantil and the next building at Gran Vía #28, the Edificio Telefónica. This building, across the street from McDonald's, was built between 1925 and 1929. It houses the central offices of the Telefónica Company, the Spanish telephone company. This was the first structure in Madrid inspired by the “American” style. Built by the Chicago Phone Company, it was designed by the American architect Louis Weeks but construction was overseen by a local Spanish architect, Ignacio de Cárdenas. The metal and concrete construction was a novelty at the time in Spain. Its prominent position in the Gran Vía both called attention to it and made it the center of a major controversy. At a height of 81 meters, it was taller than the code of the time would allow, but permission was granted because it was considered to be of public importance. Probably to lessen the impact of the stark appearance, Cárdenas added some neo-baroque decorations in the facade.
#14 Casa Matesanz
On the same left hand (south) side, at number 27 between the streets Tres Cruces and Salud we find another remarkable building: Casa Matesanz (1919-23) by one of the more influential architects of the time, Antonio Palacios.Notice how the architect has divided Casa Matesanz in three distinct zones: the lower, the middle and the top. The base or commercial zone has three floors, an elegant door adorned with iron reliefs of flowers, and a balustrade (ornamented parapet with art deco supports). The middle zone has four floors with monumental columns that form Renaissance style arches. Among these arches, the vertical windows were done in metal and glass inspired by the American commercial architecture of the time. The third zone has two floors, a garret and an upper level.
#15 Casa del Libro
Continue on Gran ViaGran Vía #29, the Casa del Libro between Salud and Chinchilla, was built in 1920 with some interesting elements in eclectic neo-baroque with art deco details. The original inspiration for this structure was the baroque style of Pedro de Ribera, a great 18th century architect that built other famous facades around Madrid. This great bookstore is a must; they stock almost everything from language study aids and popular novels, to erudite titles, and foreign-language books. It is worth it to stop by any time you are in the neighborhood.
#16 Grandes Almacenes
Gran Vía #32, built between 1919 and 1924, was built expressly for a new concept in shopping, a department store, the Grandes Almacenes Madrid-París. It had four floors for the merchandise and an attic for offices. This strictly commercial architecture was designed in a very French style with large openings to let the light in and also to help break the uniformity of the strong horizontal lines. The original store folded and a discount store was opened during Franco’s time. Even this store closed in 2002 and it has now been replaced with other popular retailers, such as Primark and H&M.
#17 Palacio de la Música
Continue walking on the south side of the Gran Vía. Just past #33 is one of the best known buildings on the street, both for its style and for being among the most famous movie theatres in Madrid.The Palacio de la Música, was built in 1924-26 by the architect Secundino Zuazo, considered one of the masters of the 20th century. (He also built Nuevos Ministerios in the Paseo de la Castellana and another historically important building, la Casa de las Flores). The Palacio de la Música has had many problems, including a roof that collapsed before the building was completed, and a fire in 1933. Because of building codes for movie houses, the building is shorter than the rest of the buildings. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to appreciate the details of the architecture because of the large advertising signs. You need to cross the street to appreciate the beautiful open gallery above, with ionic columns inspired by the great Italian palaces. The interior decoration was inspired by a baroque building in Sevilla. When it finally opened in 1926, it pioneered the newest technologies in movies, the “talkies.” From the 1940s to the 80s, it enjoyed a Golden Age. Fortunately, the main theater with a capacity of 2,000, has not been divided into smaller movie houses because it is protected as a historical building. Just west of the Palacio de la Música, at Gran Vía #37, is another building that was originally built as a movie house. However, the original Cine Avenida has been divided inside into two different viewing theatres. In the center of the ceiling in the basement are copies of several Goya paintings.
#18 Plaza Callao
We are now in the central point of the GranVía: the Plaza Callao. The Gran Vía passes through this busy plaza, as it angles to the right (northwest). As you approach the plaza coming from the east (if you have been following this tour), the street entering at the south west corner of the plaza, crossing the south end of the plaza, and exiting to the south-south-east from the plaza is Calle de Preciados, one of the oldest shopping streets in Europe. If you continued south down Preciados you would come to Plaza del Sol.The land where Calle de Preciados is located used to be part of some Royal Gardens. Half way between Plaza Callao and Plaza del Sol, the convent Las Descalzas Reales was built on land that belonged to the Royal Gardens. Some of the land surrounding the convent was purchased by the Preciados brothers; and thus the name of the street. Near this street there was a place where unwanted babies were left for the nuns to find.The once famous department store “Galerías Preciados” was absorbed in the last few years by El Corte Inglés shopping center that now occupies several buildings in the Calle de Preciados.Back at the Plaza Callao, on the north-west corner of the plaza, right where Gran Vía bends to the right, is the Cine Callao. This building is historically protected because it is an excellent example of art deco style: it has a rounded facade crowned with a small tower and vertical panels decorated in dark red and white. The name Callao comes from the name of a Peruvian port city where the invading Spanish navy was defeated by a combined Peruvian-Chilean force in 1866.
#19 Palacio de la Prensa
Just opposite the Plaza Callao to the north, at Gran Vía #46, is another famous building, the Palacio de la Prensa (1925-29). Built of reddish brick and white stucco, it has an enormous triumphal arch with windows about two thirds of the way up the building. The lower part of the building fronting Gran Vía was inspired by American architecture; in fact, it resembles the National Press Building in Washington, D.C. Originally, in 1929, there was a large movie theater there, but it was subdivided in 1991.
#20 Plaza Callao to Plaza de España
Gran Vía angles to the north at the Palacio de la Prensa, towards Plaza de España. This stretch contains taller and more modern buildings than in the other segments, because it was constructed in the 1950s. This general area was very close to the defensive perimeter of north-eastern Madrid during the Spanish Civil War, and people could feel and hear the bombs falling nearby.
#21 Edificio Carrión (Edificio Capitol)
Staying on the left, south side of the Gran Vía, the first building that you will come to, at #41, is the Capitol Building, opposite the western end of the Palacio de la Prensa.Edificio Carrión, also known as Edificio Capitol, was built in the shape of great ship at sea and soon it became the flag-ship of the International style, gaining recognition for the young architects Luis Martínez-Feduchi and Vicente Eced. It was built with multi-purpose spaces: a movie theatre, hotel, offices, and cafeterias. It has wonderful art deco, traditional, and expressionist features. All of the materials were of the highest quality: granite, marble, etc., with strong horizontal bands that distinguish the structure. The tower crowning of the building is generally covered with advertisements.
#22 Gran Via Number 52
Gran Vía #52, between Calle de Silva and Calle de los Libreros is considered a masterpiece of art deco. Built between 1930-31, it uses a combination of brick, stucco, and metal plates with a strong Egyptian influence in the towers.
#23 Lope de Vega Complex
Continue along Gran ViaThe Lope de Vega Complex at Gran Vía #53-59 (on the south side of the street) was built in the place of a Jesuit School destroyed in 1931 when King Alfonso XIII was ousted. It is the work of the Otamendi brothers, and though it was built with modern materials it has many classical elements. There are two hotels and the Teatro Lope de Vega, an important venue for theatrical productions and large scale musicals with a capacity for over a thousand patrons.
#24 Gran Via Number 60
Almost directly across the street from the Teatro Lope de Vega is Gran Vía 60.The present building at Gran Via #60 was constructed in 1941 in art deco style, especially in the gigantic portico and the sculpture on top that holds a house or temple above its head and is thought to represent "savings" (monetarily speaking). The bronze discs give a certain luminous effect to the structure. The building that was there before 1941 had been destroyed during the Civil War by a bomb. Because Franco and his political party, the Falange, admired Mussolini, the building also contains elements of the Italian Fascist style.
#25 Hotel Madrid Tryp Menfis
There are only two more buildings left on this tour of the Gran Vía, and both are on the north side (right side as we have been walking the street), near to the Plaza de España.The next to last building on this tour is at the corner of Calle del General Mitre and Gran Vía #74. The Hotel Madrid Tryp Menfis, also known as the Hotel Madrid Plaza España, is a fine example of the functional architecture of the 1950s as influenced by Le Corbusier. Notice the series of small terraces, the roof terraces, and the corner tower. The interior was modern, elegant, and functional.
#26 Gran Via Number 78
The last building, Gran Vía #78, was financed by the famous composer Jacinto Guerrero, and it was designed to have a theater and apartments with a separate entrance. The building has strong vertical lines inspired by American architecture of the time. The interior of the theater, with a capacity of 1,500, is supposed to have excellent acoustics inspired by a famous Parisian theater. Since the structure has been put on the historical registry, the interior cannot be changed, though the theater has been converted to a movie house, the Teatro Gran Via, now known as Teatro Colusium.
#27 Ending the Gran Via Walk
We have arrived at the end of this discovery trip along one of the most representative streets of the 20th century. This grand avenue has lost some of the sparkle of its first years, but with a little imagination, you can see the elegance that once was there, and you can imagine a rebirth, a full recovery that once again will attract the sophisticated and high-end traffic that it once had. Yet, even today, you can witness the frenetic and busy throngs of shoppers, tourists, and immigrants. If you still feel like more discoveries, you can continue with another visit, namely, to the Plaza de España and the surrounding areas, or save the visit for another day.
