Tiaki Promise
Introduction - Milford Sound Cruise
Kia ora. Welcome aboard your Southern Discoveries Milford Sound Cruise.Southern Discoveries is proud to be your host today as we sail through magnificent Milford Sound, often referred to as the 8th wonder of the world.Before we set sail on our cruise today, we would like you to give some thought to your personal safety. Please ensure you have watched our safety video and always listen to crew instructions.We would also like to acknowledge the mana whenua (indigenous) people of this region, Ngai Tahu.Milford Sound is a pristine haven for a variety of wildlife amongst the rich geological formations and captivating waterfalls. Today we will be sailing throughout the fiord taking in the magical surroundings that we are so privileged to be sharing with you.During the cruise, the audio will activate automatically at the points of interest throughout the cruise. This allows us to share the history of Milford Sound, the wildlife that is found here and incredible scenery that surrounds you. Our Skipper and Crew will be pointing out any wildlife such as penguins, seals and maybe even dolphins if we are lucky, so do keep an eye out. Feel free to walk around the vessel and explore the various viewing decks, all designed to provide encapsulating views throughout your cruise. We now invite you to relax and immerse yourself in the incredible scenery and informative commentary during your cruise with Southern Discoveries.
Lady Bowen Falls
Lady Bowen Falls on your left, stands 163m high and cascades 9km from Grave Glacier in Darran Range, beside the Bowen River. She was named by Governor George Bowen in 1871 after his wife, Lady Diamantina Bowen. After extremely heavy rain, there is a mist that often extends over the harbor, serving as a scenic landmark, as well as a hydroelectric power source, and freshwater supply.The Bowen River intake above the falls channels river water into a pipeline visible from the bus carpark, supplying filtered treated water to the wharf and Milford village. This pure water is used for drinking and onboard our vessels. This is beautiful pure water which is drunk by us every day, and everything onboard this vessel including the tea and coffee is made with this water.Milford Sound also generates 400kw of renewable power behind the Visitor Terminal, with a backup diesel generator for sustainability in this remote location, leaving a minimal environmental footprint.
Mitre Peak/Rahotu
Straight ahead is Milford’s best-known landmark, Mitre Peak. This mountain is iconic, and one of the most photographed mountains in New Zealand. This mountain rises steeply to a height of 1692m above sea level, making the northern-face of this mountain one of the tallest sea-cliffs in the world. It is called Mitre Peak because the top 600m resembles a Bishops hat, or Mitre. The smaller forested hill beneath it is known as the Bishops Footstool.Maori had another name for it though, they know it as Rahotu. This name makes it a mountain carved out in honour of the demi-god Tu-Te-Raki-Whanoa, who carved out Fiordland with his magical adze (chisel), Te Hamo.Mitre Peak was named in 1851 by Captain John Lort Stokes aboard the HMS Acheron, He was surveying the New Zealand coastline. Stokes thought the mountain looked like a Bishop’s headgear.
Sinbad Gully
The valley that you see on the left is Sinbad Gully. Situated in the Darran Mountains, the 7km long valley gained recognition in the mountaineering world for its challenging climbing routes.It was named by Donald Sutherland who was the first European settler of Milford Sound. He attempted to summit Mitre Peak from the back of this valley but could not pass the steep cliffs, eventually attempting again from the footstool another day. Apart from exploring, he was prospecting for precious metals and gemstones, hoping to find his riches. However. he came away from the valley empty handed, so he called the place Sinbad Gully after Sinbad the pirate.Today, Sinbad Gully is seen as a place for a different kind of riches, in the form of native, rare and endangered wildlife species. The landscape surrounding the gully acts like a natural barrier, slowing down the invasion of pests and predators.
Widest and Deepest Area
The widest part of the fiord is around 1.8km or about 1 nautical mile, however if measured across into Harrisons Cove, it is 2.8km. The deepest part of the fiord is around 300m deep.This large basin area is where the cruise ships that visit us during summer make their stay. Much of the glacial ice flowed down into this area, and you can observe this through the angles of the valleys.The valley we are cruising past now is where the ice was once flowing down from the mountains, and out to the coast. We are now on our way to the open Tasman Sea, so we will be following the path of the glaciers!
Fiordland National Park
Fiordland is a remote region, known for its rugged landscapes. It features U-shaped valleys, coastal fiords, and steep mountains, with hard rock formations shaped by past glaciations. The tallest mountain in the Fiordland region is Mount Tutoko, at 2,723 meters (8,934 ft), and is one of several peaks over 2,000 meters high in the Darren Mountains.Milford Sound is the only fiord in the area with road access, and it is the northern most of the 14 fiords. It is also the most well-known, and the most visited. Fiordland National Park itself is 12500 square km, 1.2 million hectares, or roughly 3 million acres, making it New Zealand’s largest national park. It is coincidentally about the same size as the country of Wales. Dusky Sound and Doubtful Sound are even larger.Fiordland has never had a significant permanent population, but the Maori people historically visited for hunting, fishing, and collecting greenstone, called pounamu in Maori. Captain James Cook's visit here in 1773 attracted whalers and seal hunters, and serious exploration began in the mid-19th century.In 1986, Fiordland became a World Heritage Area, and in 1990, Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area was created, including the surrounding national parks as well.Te Wahipounamu is 2.6 million hectares, roughly 10% of the New Zealand’s landmass, and encompasses the most untouched wilderness. It includes 4 separate national parks; Fiordland, Mt. Aspiring, Westland, and Aoraki/Mt Cook National Parks.
Elephant and Lion View
Have a look to your right at the whole mountain. You will see a crouching lion facing towards the Stirling Falls. Its mane being around the summit, then leading down to its hind quarters at the base, by the entrance to Harrisons Cove. The elephant is also visible from this angle, with its trunk running down towards the Stirling Falls.Elephant Mountain is 1517 meters high, and Lion Mountain is 1302 meters high.
Maori History and Legends
Early Maori people arrived in New Zealand around 1000 years ago, with the majority of Maori arriving 200 years later. They visited ‘Piopiotahi’, the Maori name for Milford Sound, to collect greenstone, mainly traveling along the coast in their Waka canoes, while also having settlements inland. It's believed they accessed the fiord through a route similar to the Greenstone-Caples Track and Milford Track. However, coastal settlements near the Hollyford to the north were also established.According to Maori legend, the demi-god ‘Tū Te Rakiwhānoa’, carved out all of the Fiords and much of the South Island using a digging stick, called a Ko, and a magic ‘Toki’, or adze - a chisel tool called ‘Te Hamo’. The Gods asked him to create inlets and waterways for his people to find shelter while navigating the turbulent southwestern sea. His aim was to create waterways and safe harbours, stocked with fish and birds. Milford Sound is his most spectacular work.When the Gods examined his creation, they were mostly satisfied, except for ‘Hine-nui-te-po’, or ‘Big Lady of the Night, Goddess of Death’. She feared that this place, ‘Ata Whenua’, or ‘Shadowlands, Fiordland’, was too beautiful, and that humans would be captivated and never leave. To prevent this, she introduced ‘Te Namu’ ‘The Sandfly’ to keep humans moving.
History of Sounds, Fiords & Glacial Carved Valleys
Worldwide, you'll find various water-formed landforms like bays, bights, sounds, and fiords, appreciated for their beauty and natural shelter. These formations can look alike but differ geographically.For instance, Milford Sound was carved by glaciers meeting the coastline in past ice ages. In contrast, the Marlborough Sounds in the northern South Island are sunken river valleys shaped by both land subsidence and rising sea levels due to tectonic activity.Fiords are typically glacial-carved valleys, often containing seawater, formed when melting ice allowed the sea to fill the basin behind moraines. They have U-shaped profiles with steep sides and often hold boulder deposits from retreating ice.On the other hand, sounds are usually river-eroded valleys with V-shaped profiles, forming in softer rock. They may turn into coastal inlets due to rising seas or land subsidence from seismic activity.
Copper Marks
If you look at the cliff on your left, you will see there are different colours in the rocks. These colours reveal the different types of minerals we have in Milford Sound. There is iron ore, which are those brown rusty marks in the rocks, especially down near the bottom of the cliff. There are also copper marks here, oxidizing to a green colour. Quartz bands run all throughout the rocks of Milford Sound, and within quartz, you may find gold. They are often known to form together. No mining occurs here today, due to it being a National Park, and having the UNESCO World Heritage Area status.At various times through the 1800’s and 1900’s, just like in other regions, mining has taken place in Fiordland. However, nothing in this region was notably successful when compared to the lucrative gold rushes of Westland and Otago. It is safe to assume that the rugged terrain would have made things a bit more difficult for them. Some gold was taken from Preservation Inlet, down in the very southern edge of the region, throughout the 1890’s.
Copper Point 'windy point'
Copper Point is one of the narrowest parts of the fiord. At around 600m wide, this is normally the windiest part of the fiord, especially during storms. Wind travelling down the fiord gets squeezed between the cliffs, and accelerates as it travels through this bottleneck. The compression between the cliffs can cause wind speeds to multiply as it travels in from the coast. The anemometer on the cliff measures and records average wind speeds, and during a storm the wind gusts are known to reach speeds of 120 knot gusts, or 222 km/138 mph. Greater than 137 knots is considered hurricane force 5, which is the highest rating, or a super typhoon. The prevailing wind comes from the West.On the other side of the area, we commonly see a colony of seals who happily hang out, relying on the regular breeze to keep their coats cool, and the sandflies away.
Bridal Veil Falls, Fault Line, Tectonic Action & Mountain Building
Bridal Veil Falls, at 50 meters, rivals Niagara Falls in height, and is globally famous. It reveals the active Pembroke-Tutuko Fault, with water flowing down the mountainside crevice. While not New Zealand's primary fault (that's the Alpine Fault), this fault generates numerous small earthquakes in the region.The sturdy mountain rocks minimise ground movement. A significant 7.8 magnitude earthquake in 2009 near Dusky Sound caused tree avalanches, and shifted New Zealand's southwestern corner closer to Australia. Such quakes release immense energy, equivalent to 500 million tonnes of TNT dynamite.These earthquakes are part of the ongoing mountain-building process. The Southern Alps rise about 7 millimeters annually, one of the world's fastest-rising mountain ranges. In just 5 million years, they've grown significantly, and are younger than other ranges like the Andes, Himalayas, and European Alps.
Moraine
We are now heading through the narrowest and shallowest part of the fiord, where the glaciers taper off. All of the rock that used to fill the valley behind us is now found beneath us, in the form of an enormous underwater mountain of boulders, raising the depth to 70m.Moraines are a feature of all glacial carved valleys, as the boulders are deposited at the terminus (or front-face), like a big conveyer belt, restricting the exchange of water to the surface. This is how the Deep-Water Emergence was created.Look behind you, and try to imagine the path that the glaciers took.
Trees in Fiordland
In Milford Sound, the verdant landscape is adorned with a diverse array of trees that contribute to the region's enchanting beauty. Native beech trees, including the red, silver, and mountain beech varieties, dominate the temperate rainforests that cloak the towering cliffs that you see today.These beech forests create a lush and vibrant tapestry, with their foliage providing a haven for various bird species, such as the melodious Tui, and the elusive Kiwi. Mosses and ferns carpet the forest floor, and the ancient and towering trees, often shrouded in mist, lend an ethereal quality to Milford Sound's ecosystem.The resilient flora not only contributes to the breathtaking scenery, but also plays a crucial role in maintaining the delicate balance of this UNESCO World Heritage site, making Milford Sound a botanical wonder where native trees weave a story of resilience and natural splendor.
Tasman Sea
We are now sailing into the Tasman Sea. The Tasman Sea is named after Abel Tasman, the famous Dutch explorer who made the voyage of first European discovery to New Zealand in 1642.As the Tasman Sea comes into view, you can see that although Milford Sound is classed as an enclosed waterway, technically it is not. However, it is beautifully sheltered, and the perfect natural harbour is often confused for a lake by the arriving visitors.You may be interested to know that if we travelled to the North-West for 4 days, we would eventually arrive in Australia. However, if we sailed directly west, we wouldn’t see land until we arrive in Patagonia, South America. This vast amount of open sea contributes to the inclement weather conditions down here on the southwest coast, and we are in what’s known as the Roaring-Forties. Further south where the wind is stronger, it is known as the Furious-Fifties.You may wish to step out onto the deck, but do ensure that you hold onto your belongings, as the wind can often blow away hats and any loose items. The vessel may also encounter some more waves, so please take care, and hold onto the handrails as you move around the vessel.
Penguins
New Zealand hosts 9 out of the 17 penguin species, including the Fiordland Crested Penguin, in Milford Sound.The Fiordland Crested Penguins, also known as Tawaki, are unique to New Zealand's South-Western coastline, identified by their yellow crests, and are one of the world's rarest penguin species, with an estimated 5,500 - 7,000 mature birds.Penguins spend most of their lives at sea, but have varying feeding ranges depending on the breeding site. Milford Sound's abundant marine ecosystem contributes to successful chick rearing. However, Tawaki face many challenges, particularly from pests that were introduced by the early Europeans. Stoats and dogs are just some of the pests that can kill the young penguins.The Tawaki Project, in partnership with Southern Discoveries, studies these penguins, with the local Milford Sound breeding population estimated between 240 – 300 birds, a significant increase from the previous 20 birds estimated to be living here.Otago University scientists use satellite tracking to monitor Tawaki's behaviors, including pre-moult dispersal, where they travel up to 7,000km during foraging
Cray Fishing
The coloured buoys that you may see identify the crayfish holding pots. Spiny Rock Lobster fishing (or cray fishing) is a very lucrative industry along the Fiordland coastline.In New Zealand, two types of lobsters exist: the Spiny Rock Lobster, and the larger Packhorse Rock Lobster. These lobsters are known to feed on shellfish, crabs, seaweed, small fish, and sea urchins, moving primarily at night for shelter and food.Cray area 8, which includes the waters outside Milford Sound, is the largest commercial fishing area, yielding around 800 tonnes annually, primarily for live export. These lobsters can fetch high prices, ranging from $100 to $160 per kilo.At the end of each day, fishermen deposit their catch in holding pots on the sea floor in sheltered bays like Anita Bay, waiting for the right market conditions – which can sometimes be up to one month. The crayfish are then graded, packed on ice, and exported globally to ensure their pristine condition upon arrival. Around 12 boats operate out of Milford Sound, and approximately 60 boats in total work along the Fiordland, South Coast, and Stewart Island, contributing significantly to this industry's annual output.
St Anne Point
Just ahead is St. Anne Point, home to Fiordland's first lighthouse, constructed in 1937, and replaced twice due to storm damage. This lighthouse emits a single white flash every 5 seconds from dusk till dawn, serving as a guide for local fishermen.This lighthouse is one of 3 found along the Fiordland coastline. They are not manned lighthouses; these days they are all automated with a solar panel on top, charging a bank of batteries which powers the light on top that can be seen from 15km out to sea.If we were to turn left and head down the coast, it would take us 12 hours to reach the very southwest tip of the South Island, a place called Puysegar Point. Every hour of that trip, we would pass the entrance to a fiord, of which there are 13 fiords in total. All the fiords are located south of here, and Milford Sound is the northernmost of all of the fiords.
Dale Point
We are now beginning our return journey around Dale Point and at this point, we suggest having your camera ready. The view looking back into Milford Sound is magnificent. This is the view that would have greeted the Early Explorers, both Maori and European, all those years ago! Imagine their relief when travelling in from the rough sea. Prior to the opening of the Milford track and the Milford Road, this was the only way in!
European Discovery
One of the first rocks that was named on this part of the coastline is the Brig. This was named when Captain James Cook sailed past in 1770, and again in 1773, charting the NZ coast, and not making too many mistakes. He named many of the Sounds, but not this one. Here he passed on the other side of the Brig, noting it as a shallow reef. He thought from a distance the rock was a boat, hence the name.Looking back towards Milford’s entrance it’s easy to see how he marked it down as a ‘bay’. The European discovery was made in around 1812, when Captain John Grono, a Welsh Seal-Hunter, was caught in a storm, and seeking refuge he travelled into the bay seeking shelter. Fortunately for him, he did not crash on the rocks, but instead he moved away from the swell, and inside the entrance to a sanctuary, a scenic wonder. He travelled down the fiord to Harrisons Cove, which is where you will find the Underwater Observatory today.The original name bestowed by him was Milford Haven, in honour of the deep-water port back in his Welsh homeland. However, the name was later changed by another Welshman, John Lort Stokes, in 1851, when he visited the fiord during the Acheron Survey, changing the name to Milford Sound, and uniting the ‘Sounds of New Zealand’ under one banner.
Palisades
The Palisades are one of the most remarkable features of glacial evidence, each cliff face represents an old valley floor. The glaciation made more of an impression as the mountains became larger. The ice ages had more to work with, ultimately drawing more moisture from the westerly Tasman air, causing more snow and ice to fall and form, as the mountains rose up to provoke the air. There are 3 steps above the water, and 2 below.During the last 3 million years there has been over 20 different glacial periods, with 5 of them being major events. These 5 have left a considerable impact on Milford Sound, represented by the Palisades. The effects have been preserved by the hard rock structure.The waterfall beside the steps is the Palisade Falls, another great example of a longer lasting temporary falls. As the seals are found on either side of this narrow part, seal rock is just up ahead.
Seal Rock
To your left, you'll see Seal Rock, home to the New Zealand Fur Seals, or "Kekeno" in Maori, meaning "look around." These seals are recognized by their distinctive long whiskers, dark eyes, and a fur coat that appears dark when wet, and pale brown-grey when dry. Their fur is essential for staying warm in cold waters.Historically, these seals were hunted, but hunting was banned in 1894. New Zealand hosts around 200,000 of these seals, and western and southern Australia has approximately 30,000 - 35,000 seals.These seals are excellent divers, capable of diving over 200 meters deep, and holding their breath for up to 11 minutes. They have adaptations like myoglobin in their blood for better oxygen storage, and collapsible lungs to cope with pressure changes.Fur seals often inhabit rocky shores known as ‘haul-out sites’, but they annually return to their familiar breeding colonies. At haul-outs, they socialise with less mature seals, reducing the risk of severe fights, and facilitating learning and survival.
Marine Mammals
Milford Sound hosts various marine mammals, and you might see them during our cruise.While Fur Seals are common, sightings of Leopard Seals and young Southern Elephant Seals are rare but exciting.The Bottlenose Dolphin, the second-largest dolphin globally, is the predominant species here in Milford Sound, reaching up to 3.2 meters in length and 275kg in weight. These intelligent dolphins dive for 7 minutes, reaching depths of 50 meters, and employ tactics like bubble netting and echolocation for group hunting.Transient pods of Bottlenose Dolphins, usually 30 - 60 in total, visit Milford Sound approximately twice a fortnight, spending hours or days in the area. Keep an eye out for their distinctive dorsal fins.The most common whale sightings include Humpback Whales, occasional Southern Right Whales, and offshore Orca. While the main whale season is in July for breeding, you may also spot them in November, as they migrate south to feed. Interestingly, Humpback Whales, which are known for their large flippers and unique tail patterns, have made a remarkable recovery, with a population of 80,000, and can live for up to 50 years.
Stirling Falls, Wai Maanu (water bird, or cloud on the water)
Standing at a height of 151 metres, Stirling Falls is 3 times the height of the Niagara Falls. It was named by Governor George Bowen in honour of Captain Stirling, when he visited the fiord in 1871.This waterfall also features in the Hollywood movie ‘X-Men Origins: Wolverine’, when Hugh Jackman jumps from the falls - naked! Computer generated of course.There is a local legend that if you are blessed by the Stirling Falls mist and spray, you will wake up tomorrow looking and feeling 10 years younger! Maori warriors paddled into Milford Sound for Pounamu, and to be immersed in Stirling Falls mist for strength and vitality. This increased their endorphins and norepinephrine (and this is backed up by science!) – and is similar to caffeine.Head outside to experience Stirling Falls in her full grandeur, but remember you may get wet, so we advise you to put your phone and belongings safely away so that they don’t get wet. Also please be careful as the boat’s bow and decks may be slippery. Enjoy!
The Overhang
We are now sailing past ‘The Overhang’. At a staggering 700m or 2300ft up to the lip of the overhang, this is almost the same height as the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai (830m). This cliff is, however, just over half of the mountain itself, Mt Kimberley, which is our smallest mountain but one of the steepest rising directly from the fiord to its summit.
Striations
If you look at the cliffs on your left, you will see small horizontal lines or scratch marks in the rock. This occurred after the rocks were being ripped off, picked up or they falling onto the ice, and then trapped between the mountains and the glacial walls.This process is highly abrasive, especially when you consider the weight behind it although Glaciologists calculated that the ice was flowing at a rate of 6-7m per day.Glaciation is one of the most powerful forms of erosion and you will see these marks are in various locations around the fiord.
Mt Pembroke & Harrisons Cove
This colossal 2014m high mountain is home to one of the last major glaciers in the area, apart from the Donne Glacier on Mt Tutuko, which is Fiordland's highest peak, at 2723m. The glacier feeds Stirling Falls and partly the Harrison River, with additional water coming from a distant lake. Mt Pembroke's base is 7km from the shore, which is about half the length of Milford Sound.You can observe the remnants of the glacier's former position in the pockets on the mountainside, showing its gradual retreat. The Harrison Valley boasts mature forest due to its flat terrain.Harrisons Cove is a rare shallow anchorage within the fiord, providing excellent shelter from westerly winds. Seafarers like Grono often used it as a stopping point.
Cascades
On your left you will see the Cascades, named due to the high volume of waterfalls which form and flow during extended periods of heavy rain. Lots of tree avalanches have occurred along this mountain range, some stretching from the ridge at the top all the way down to the sea. This gives us a great opportunity to observe the forest in different stages of regeneration.Interestingly, this impressive mountain range doubles in size from end to end. The height down at the harbour end is 900m, however at the Harrisons Cove end, it is 1800m high, known as Mills Peak. This may add some perspective on the scale of the ungraspable distances around you.
Demographics and Economy
Apart from the areas around the townships of Te Anau and Manapouri, at the edge of Fiordland, the Fiordland region has never had more than a few human inhabitants and is the least-populated area of the South Island just 12 residents in 2013, so it was virtually uninhabited. It has no villages or towns, and many areas are almost inaccessible except by boat or air.The only settlements close in Fiordland (depending on definition) are the Manapouri and Te Anau townships, which together have around 3,000 permanent inhabitants. The Fiordland region receives 1.2 million visitors per year, staying for a combined 1 million visitor nights. And as many of you would have experienced today, the only major road in Fiordland is State Highway 94, also referred to as Milford Road, connecting Te Anau with Milford Sound.Except for electricity generation (at the Manapouri Power Station and a smaller hydro-electric power station at Lake Monowai) alongside some agriculture, tourism is the largest economic contributor of the region. Infact visitor spending was NZ$92 million in 2003, and 1,017 people were employed full-time in the tourism industry, with an additional 1,900 people considered to be employed in tourism industry support services.
Bowen Falls - return
We are now sailing past Lady Bowen Falls. She stands 163m high and cascades 9km from Grave Glacier in Darran Range, beside the Bowen River. She was named by Governor George Bowen in 1871 after his wife, Lady Diamantina Bowen. After extremely heavy rain, there is a mist that often extends over the harbor, serving as a scenic landmark, as well as a hydroelectric power source, and freshwater supply.The Bowen River intake above the falls channels river water into a pipeline visible from the bus carpark, supplying filtered treated water to the wharf and Milford village. This pure water is used for drinking and onboard our vessels. This is beautiful pure water which is drunk by us every day, and everything onboard this vessel including the tea and coffee is made with this water.Milford Sound also generates 400kw of renewable power behind the Visitor Terminal, with a backup diesel generator for sustainability in this remote location, leaving a minimal environmental footprint.
Farewell and thank you
Shortly we will be arriving back to the dock, so please take a moment to ensure you have all your belongings before you disembark the vessel.On behalf of Southern Discoveries, thank you for choosing to cruise with us today. We hope that you enjoyed your cruise today, and we would love to hear your feedback.We wish you all the best for rest of your journey today.Kia ora, kia ora nga haerenga
