Delphi: The Navel of the Earth Preview

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Delphi - Introduction

My name is Anna, and I am going to be your guide for this tour.Welcome to Delphi, welcome to the navel of the Earth as the Ancient Greeks believed. Delphi was a place seen as a spiritual focal point for all Greeks; of course, it included many sanctuaries and the most prestigious oracle in all of ancient Greece.I’m an expert on Greek history and a licensed tour guide for over than 25 years. Till the end of this “journey”, I will truly have captured the whole history, myths and legends of Delphi. I hope you agree. But I am not alone. Mary is my colleague and my travel buddy. Welcome, Mary! Hi Anna, nice to meet you here!Mary will help you navigate into the archaeological site of Delphi but also will give extra info. So, be prepared; she always keeps secrets up her sleeve. Right Mary? Hahaha yes, Anna. I am specialized in this.

How to use this App

Before we start our tour, it’s useful to tell you how to use this app. As you can see from the display window on your audio player, each of the stops on this tour has its own title. You can skip ahead or tailor your itinerary to your own tastes. Whenever you like, you can pause the audio guide and then restart it when you are ready to move on. To help you along, there’s a map available for this tour. Be aware that, even with the very best of directions, sightseeing through the ancient ruins can be confusing.Now, let’s go to Delphi. But, Mary, isn’t it better to say, “let’s go to see if we can find it”?Mmmm, that’s for sure! Delphi is well hidden under the mountains and this special feature spreads a veil of mystery that will follow us during our tour through the myths and untold stories about this place. You know, Delphi was the only one that we see the Divine presence and also, highlights what the ancient world represented: a mix of balance and harmony.

Stop 1 - Sanctuary of Goddess Athena Pronaia

I trust your geographical orientation. So let’s speak about the Sanctuary of Goddess “Athena Pronaia”. Saying sanctuary, we mean a religious place dedicated to a God or Goddess; in this case is to the Goddess of Wisdom, Goddess Athena; but worshipped here as the Goddess of “Providence” or like the “Guardian Goddess”. The sanctuary of the Goddess is located almost at the feet of two rocky hills that dominate the area. These hills are called the “Faidriades”.The sanctuary has a natural protection, and the spot was and still is one of the most ancient spots of Delphi. It existed like 4.000 years ago, during the Bronze Age and, was connected to the cult of Gaia, Goddess of Nature. The cult of Goddess Athena replaced the previous cult of Gaia, through the centuries.

Stop 2 - Tholos

As we go down, we meet “Tholos” which is the remaining of a delicate round shape, an impressive circular building, that dominates the sanctuary of “Athena Pronaia”. I am sure all of you can recognize the monument since it is one of the most photographed and enhanced monuments of Delphi, as it stands out because of its shape and because it is visible from the road. Translating the word “Tholos”, it means Dome or better say round shape building. Only 3 columns out of the 20 of white transparent, from the island of Paros, marble are preserved. The rest as you can see are lying in pieces in front of the building. It was constructed 2.400 years ago and, except for the external 20 columns, the building had inside ten semi-Corinthian columns in contact with the wall. So It was overwhelming ornated with mythological scenes, like the Centauromachy and Amazonomachy and its conical marble-tiled roof. Till now, we don’t know the exact use of the building. There are some theories where they say that it could be used as a temple or a heron, that means dedicated to a hero, or storage for weapons.- Sorry for interrupting you, Anna, but this last one doesn’t make sense.- I totally agree with you. So, that’s why we explain it has a cultural character the building of Tholos. To the left of Tholos and as we enter the sanctuary from the west, there are grey rectangular stones of the last temple constructed and dedicated to the Goddess 2.400 years ago like 370 B.C.So, marvel at this symbolic monument and when you are finished, turn your head right, please.

Stop 3 - Treasury of Marseille and other temples

You can see the remainings of two buildings known as Treasuries: the treasury of Marseille, the Greek colony of the area of Focide, which is where we are, and from which the current prefecture took its name and another one, maybe dedicated by the Athenians.With the term “Treasury”, we mean a religious character building, dedicated by a city-state and decorated with sculpture or paintings. The building could keep precious objects which were dedications. That’s why were known as treasuries. They could operate also like embassies.Next to these remainings, the most ancient temple to the Goddess Athena is visible and had been constructed of the local limestone. As visible, the ground floor of the temple and one column of Doric style that looks connected to the retaining wall. That temple could have been destroyed 2.500 years ago by Xerxes and the Persians in 480 B.C. or maybe due to strong earthquakes almost in 373 B.C.Now according to the story, the Persians with Xerxes, after Thermopylae, made their way to Athens. But part of the Persian army turned towards Delphi to remove the sanctuary's wealth. What is said is that in front of the sanctuary of Pronaia, thunders and rocks falling from the Faidriades stopped and blocked the Persians. While it was believed two guardians- heroes like supernatural men, protected the sanctuary, that's why close to the oldest temple of the Goddess, we are finding remainings of the two small constructions. Before we leave from the sanctuary of Providence, we observe 2 things. The first thing is three small altars with the ancient writing of the 6th century B.C., dedicated to Goddess of Wisdom but with different adjectives like Athena Ergane, that means of the artisans, Athens Zosteria, that means who protects pregnant in labour women, and Zeus Polias of the city. All these refer to the different identities that the God or the Goddess they could have. As we are leaving from the sanctuary, the second one that we observe that we need to look at is in front of us. It is the sanctuary of of God Apollo – the God of music and harmony - the most handsome of the male Gods. We understand like this that the sanctuary of Goddess Athena Providence is as if is guarding or protecting the big sanctuary of Apollo. That’s why Athena took this adjective plus that the visitors that time, coming from the east or direction of Athens, first were passing from the sanctuary of the Providence and then via a path were making their way to the Oracle of Apollo or the sanctuary of the God!

Stop 4 - Faidriades and the Fountain of Castalia

As we return back to the road level and walk on the right-hand side, heading to the main archaeological site, there are two high rocky hills are known as Faidriades. It’s worthy to make a stop here, I think. Each of them has a different name, but it is that one that gets used, Faidriades. The Faidriades are volcanic remainings; they are formations of millions of years ago and they are separated with a stream known as Arkoudorema, the stream of the bear.… The version of the myth...The water that is passing in-between was and is finding access to an opening like a basin, constructed 2.600 years ago, in 600 B.C. and is known as the fountain of Castalia. The landscape has a rich and natural beauty as you can see like a fairy-tale scenery. The serpent Python and Apollo myth finds its evidence – or can be easily imagined. According to that myth, before the construction of the sanctuary and the ancient city of Delphi probably between the Faidriades in an opening of the ground or gap, there was a guardian snake: Python. Python was protecting this gap as it was representing the gutter of the earth (of nature). During that time, people were worshipping the female deity: Gaia.An Apollo myth killed Python, as the giant mythical creature was chasing the mother of the Gods, Leto. A version of the myth explains that the word Python means “rotten” as probably the body of the creature remained exposed to be rotten. On that spot is located the fountain of Castalia. Who exactly was Castalia Mary?According to local tradition, the spring took its name either from the local hero Kastalios or the nymph Kastalia, the daughter of the river god AchelousThat’s right! So, the water was getting accumulated via a limestone aqueduct in the paved-style yard that we see in front of us. Three –four steps were leading “Pythia”, the Great Priestess of the sanctuary of Apollo, as she was preparing to become the instrument of God. Through her, Apollo was giving the prophecies, the ambiguous answers.The place around the fountain of Castalia was formed in Roman times, 1st century B.C., almost 2.100 years ago, can you imagine? We are looking at this; the smooth rocky visitors were dedicating offerings to the nymph. During the Ottoman times, the big niche on the right-hand side changed to a chapel dedicated to St John the Baptist.

Stop 5 - The Gymnasium

Crossing the street, we can see from above the athletic installations of the sanctuary spreading in a very bad condition.The Gymnasium is what we call the athletic installation where young men were exercising themselves, in running, long jump, javelin, and this as it was their mentality: to exercise their bodies. Meanwhile, philosophers, and rhetors were dialecting, also, in the Gymnasium. That means that the mentality was also to exercise the mind equally with the body. Only like a person could be complete and perfect: keeping the mind and body healthy. That’s how they could find their balance. Gymnasium derives from the word “Gymnos” which means naked. They were not feeling embarrassed as their mentality was what we have already explained. From Delphi's Gymnasium has been preserved only a long corridor that we see in front of us. It was an open area, while when the weather was bad or extremely hot, the athletes were entering in a covered corridor to practice themselves. The broken columns we see belong to the covered passage, length of 178,35 meters, almost 600 feet. Until the beginning of the excavations, the Gymnasium was buried under a monastery dedicated to the Dormition of Mary, known as “Panayia”. The palaestra, on the other hand was a building where they were practising in boxing and wrestling, is and was destroyed in Late Antiquity and was covered by a large building of the 6th century A.D.Extra info is that Lord Byron in 1809 left his signature in one of the columns.Before moving forward, what is also clearly visible is a big round shape cistern of 2.500 years old. The cistern, like a pool, was getting used by the athletes to wash and clean themselves as the water was running and getting gathered from Castalia in there.

Stop 6 - Delphi: The Sanctuary of Apollo

- Mary, am I missing something so far?- Absolutely nothing Anna. Just το mention that after Gymnasium, we now enter the main area of Delphi. The Sanctuary of Apollo or the oracle of Apollo. Please, take a moment for photo shooting if you like before we go further.- Thank you, Mary.Leaving the Fountain of Castalia behind us after a couple of minutes, on our right-hand side, the sanctuary of Apollo is nesting on an opening of the Faidriades. Being under the rocks and the ground, due to strong earthquakes the excavation started in 1891, officially by the French archaeologists. The location of the Sanctuary of Apollo was known, but the French were the ones who managed to persuade the villagers and their families, who had constructed the villages above the ruins and as were the oracles of Apollo had to be revealed or what was slightly visible was the theatre of the sanctuary, though covered and nothing else.The poor village with the name “Kastri” was transferred a few kilometres to where it is now known as Delphi and the excavations started and lasted at least 10 years.Now, let’s enter the archaeological site. Mary?We are standing in front of the ticket booth at Delphi site. Please, purchase your ticket, show it, and enter. Passing the ticket control on our right hand-side we follow the wide steps in order to reach our next stop: the “Agora”, in other words, the market that existed in the Roman time, meaning 2.000 years ago. Around us there are grey blocks of local stone, once parts of buildings, also bases with inscriptions from the Roman time. But let’s go back to you Anna.

Stop 7 - The Market

Well, construction wised, the market on its right side has columns of Ionic style and behind them are visible the shops of one time, made by tiles and it was a typical way of the Roman time. The walls until now have the plaster so the plaster is still visible. As we face the portico or stoa, which was operating as shops, the last room to the right has a Capitol with a cross that indicates that this portico had been used as a church-basilica in the early Christian time, meaning 6th century A.D. The market was located in front of the sacred path, the path that the believers and visitors of the past were following to reach Apollo's temple. Horse riders and carriages could approach the market, and the believers had to continue on foot following the sacred path. Now part of the market to the left had another long portico-entrance but this one has been collapsed and is not visible anymore, while the ground of the market as you can see looks to be paved with big grey-white stones. Passing the 4 steps, covered in wood, we start following the sacred path. It is said that from where the steps are up to the corner, were about 100 statues-offerings of Greek city-states. Left and right are monument bases with inscriptions. On the top of them, statues had been erected, made of silver, marble dedicated by the cities of Greece to show their respect towards Apollo, as with this way they were making the reason of dedication known.The first monument base as we start walking on the sacred path and our right-hand side was a giant metallic silver bull and it was an offering made from the island of Corfu. The name of the sculptor is on the side of the base. As the people of Corfu had a great fish-catch dedicated part of the profits from the fish catch and in the sanctuary of Apollo, they offered this statue to show their respect that was 2.500 years ago. What follows next is an extended base of black-grey stones supported nine bronze statues, dedications of the Arcadians (Arcadia, is and was an area of the south part of Greece – Peloponnese). The statues represented gods and heroes of Arcadia, and the reason for their dedication offering was the intrusion and looting of Lakedaimonia (Sparta) from them. What is interesting to observe on this base monument are the inscriptions. Many words are visible to this day. Plus, most of these bases had been used through the years and centuries as catalogues by the authorities, the amphiktionoi. Now, these inscriptions have to do with decisions the authority was making about the finance of the sanctuary or its functions. Some of them also had to do with the liberation of the slaves as slaves had constructed the sanctuary of the Gods and they were sacred enslaved people. They could find their freedom of their work they did in the sanctuary of Apollo. As we keep walking on the path which levels dates in the Roman Christian era, we see broken pieces left and right.Once they used to be important and glorious offerings symbolizing the victories of Greeks against other Greeks. What we can see on our left-hand side is one of the first remainings of the buildings and of course we can see the black grey material which is a local material.

Stop 8 - Treasuries and the Omphalos

We are still immersed by the Oracle of Apollo, on the corner of the path, elevated from the ground, there is a massive black base of a dedicated treasury; its decoration is exhibited in the museum. We are talking about the Treasury of Siphnians, the inhabitants of Sifnos, an island of the Aegean Sea. This was a great marble small room; it had two beautiful female statues instead of columns representing maiden girls and were operating as columns. It had a decorated frieze-like belt surrounding the outer part of the wall and was narrating important mythological and real events, important mythological findings like Gigantomachy or real events like the war of Troy etc. Our gaze gets captured by a strange conical stone called "omphalos" or "the navel of the world". The location of the stone is not where it is exhibited. It was probably located inside God's temple and in the hidden lower-level room, the Abaton of the temple. The theory was that maybe it was standing above an opening of the ground, where gas was coming out. So the omphalos was operating as a gas regulator.Omphalos represents actually the past of the area, the background and the identity of the Oracle.The lovely myth narrates how Zeus, the father of Gods and humans, showed the centre of the world. Before the cult of the 12 gods, primitive societies were worshiping “Gaia”, the goddess of nature as we said. The cult of Gaia succeeded the cult of Cronos (Saturn). The ambitious and cunning Cronos took over the power of his father and as he was afraid of his children – Hera, Hestia, Vesta (according to the Romans), Demetra, Ceres (according to the Romans), Aiades, Pluto (according to the Romans), Poseidon, Neptune according to the Romans) and Zeus or Jupiter) would do the same so he was swallowing them. But instead of Zeus, he swallowed a stone, covered in clothes and was looking like a baby. Zeus grew up in Crete, according to a version of the myth in Crete. When he became capable to affront his father, he came back with the help Earth the mother Zeus gave to Cronos a liquid. That’s how he vomited the brothers and sisters but he also vomited the stone.When, finally, Gods succeeded and ruled the world, after almost ten years of fighting with the Titanes (the famous Titanomachy) and Giants (Giantomachy), Zeus showed the centre of the world by releasing two eagles. The first eagle flew from the eastern edge of the world, the second one from the western part. The point where the two birds met was Delphi, so there was the centre, there was the stone that Cronos vomited.The explanation of the myth is there is success in the cult, which means a continuation of the cult from the father to son meaning that the cult of Cronos was father to Zeus and from Zeus to God Apollo. That’s how the place has been dedicated to God Apollo.

Stop 9 - Treasure of Athenians

Rising our eyes behind the Omphalos, we can see a beautifully restored building made of Parian marble (the marble of Paros, and the island of the Aegean Sea. It is the Treasury of the Athenians. The small, beautiful structure looks like a small Doric style temple. It has only one room, and the roof is missing as it is the most vulnerable part of an ancient building. So actually cannot be preserved. Inside the little treasury, the Athenians were keeping unique offerings dedicated to the God of music and harmony Apollo. At the same time, the outer part of the building was also decorated with metopes. A metope is a rectangular carved block depicting in this case the adventures of the mythical king Theseus. Theseus was the king the man who liberated the Athenians from the Minotaur into the maze the labyrinth in Crete and other metopes treasury of Athenians were narrating the adventures of Hercules, the semi-god. Probably the Treasury had been constructed 2.600 years ago, around 506 B.C., as an offering for the first Democracy in Athens. For sure, with the victory of the first Persian war, that means in the Marathon (490 B.C.) the Athenians dedicated the trophies. The inscription is still visible on the base in front of the Treasury and verifies historical evidence as above.‘Till now, on the walls of the building and mainly on the south and eastern part of it, there are many inscriptions. These were writings that had to do with orders and decisions of the Athenians for their society and at the same time, the archaeologists discovered two hymns-songs with their musical notes – this is really a rare exhibit of composing music. These Delphian hymns are exhibited in the museum of Delphi. They were written 2.200 years ago and had been sung in the Pythian games of 128 B.C. It was in 1894 when they were played at the International athletic congress for the first modern Olympic games of 1896. Listen! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7rkMg3Nkt8Mary? Any ace up your sleeve?Always Anna. What is also interesting on the Treasury is that there were wreaths of olive leaves on the 5th and 6th lines of the wall, visible from the sacred path. It was clear proof of the identity of the building; As the olive tree was the favourite tree of the Goddess Athina, the beloved Goddess of the Athenians.Amazing! As you can imagine, the Treasury, like all Treasuries, had a religious character, but after the time of Alexander the Great, it changed and became commercial. On the building that once people were dedicated objects to show respect, later the same building became the seat of commercial trading. The first installation took place in the first years of the 20th century and again in 2000. What is yellow as a material is the original marble and what is white is the new part.

Stop 10 - Bouleuterion & the Polygonal Wall

If you make some steps, right next to the Treasury, the ruins that follow are of the political building “Bouleuterion”, which was the parliament of Delphi. In charge of the operation of Delphi was a fraternity; a brotherhood, the Delphian amphictyony, elected by 12 ancient Greek tribes. It had a vital role in supervising the sanctuary, keeping it neutral and independent. They were organizing the Pythian games and securing the property of the place. The fraternity was electing the priests and the priestess Pythia.As we pass in front of the remaining parliament house, and before we see the masterpiece of the site, which is the Polygonal-retaining wall, on our left-hand side, there is a rock covered with ivy. This is the oldest spot of the sanctuary, and it is known as the “rock of Sibylla”. The rock of Sibylla is located on the spot of the first prophecies. She was the first fortune-teller who gave the predictions on behalf of Gaia. Sibylla was a title for the first woman who held the gift to issue prophecies, and they were at the service of this place – the first Sibylla was “Erofile”. Behind the rocks of Sibylla, remains are lying connected with the first ancient cult of Gaia and the snake dragon Python that Apollo killed and left his body to rotten. Slightly to the right, an extensive rectangular base is proof of a great dedication by the island of Naxos, exhibited in the museum. An Ionic high column of marble, at 12 meters height (almost 36 feet) with gigantic Sphinx, pure influence from Egypt. There is a portico with slender marble Ionic columns without capitals, in front of the polygonal wall, dedications of the Athenians. So it is an Athenian stoa. The building had a length of 30 meters with seven monolithic columns in front.The Athenians constructed and dedicated the stoa after the critical battle of Salamis in 480 B.C. and kept in the portico the trophies of the Persians, like ropes that held the wooden bridge that Xerxes used to cross to Europe and Greek territory and the figureheads of the Persian ships. This entrance was the example of the stoa that followed later through the centuries.Now behind the rock of Sibylla and the Athenians' stoa is the sanctuary's masterpiece. We are talking of a polygonal retaining wall 2.600 years old constructed probably in the 6th B.C. with local material, it retains the ground to its position, as the sanctuary had been built on an uneven level operates as a base for the temple of Apollo. And as a catalogue from the moment that has carving inscriptions, more than a thousand and most of them are decisions for the liberation of slaves. The amazing construction has been preserved but not to its original height. It is almost 2 meters (6 feet) but apparently was at least 5 meters (15 feet). The polygonal blocks get fitted without a link and for sure without having any space in between. Sightly carved the edges of the stones, creating a balance of the same blocks' pressure.Walking next to the polygonal wall on our right-hand side, we are getting fascinated by the landscape; a cliff, the sea of the olive trees where many of them are aged but still grow olives, the high mountain of Pleistos and course, the sanctuary of Goddess Athena-Pronaia with the three columns from the round-shaped building of Tholos and further the ruins of the athletic installations. In front, sightly to the left as a landmark, is a narrow, snake-shaped road coming from Athens, while the two rocky hills of Fiadriades dominate the space and orient the sanctuary.Across the retaining wall and next to the sacred path, on our right hand side there is a considerable platform ground.

Stop 11 - Alos: The Myth of Apollo who killed the Python!

A grey-black circular base is around, and pieces of limestone from destroyed buildings are transferred by the archaeologists to the spot called “Alos”, which is the threshing floor. A drama (play) was taking place every eight years at “Alos”. A young boy from an aristocratic family was pretending to be Apollo. With an escort, they were approaching Alos, and the drama was getting narrated. A wooden nest was located there. The boy was acting and making movements of killing the snake python. The myth of Apollo and Python was getting virtualized. Then they were burning the wooden nest, and the boy with the escort was walking towards a valley, northern of the sanctuary, in order to be purified into the water of the valley. According to the local myth of Apollo and Python, God Apollo killed the dragon-protector of the sanctuary as Python was chasing the mother of Apollo, “Leto”, and was not letting her give birth to the twins, Apollo and Artemis-Diana. In order to take revenge, after his dawn, Apollo at Delphi fights with Python that was protecting the area, was protecting Gaia and as we have said before, it was the opening of the ground where a sound or a vapour was coming out. It was as if Python was protecting and guarding the heart of Gaia. Getting killed by Apollo immediately, the act is so severe that it turns Apollo into an assassin where he has to be purified. So Apollo flies to the northern countries; till now, the archaeologists and historians have tried to figure out where were these countries.After a few years, Apollo returned when spring was starting, and his cult was established. That’s why for Delphi, Apollo gets worshipped as “Pythios”, and the celebrations were called “Pythian games”. At the same time, the priestess who was becoming the instrument of the god and through her Apollo was giving prophecies, took the title “Pythia”.We see, like that, that the previous cult of “Python and Gaia” is still alive and got replaced by Apollo and exist through them. With the theatrical play at “Alos”, the past of the sanctuary was becoming alive again, and they were enriching the celebration with musical competitions and dances. After all, Apollo was the God of music and harmony.

Stop 12 - The Altar of the Temple of Apollo: The preparation of a prophesy

As we keep walking and taking the turn next to the polygonal wall, full of writings, and the ruins of the Treasuries-offerings of Greek cities but also of Greek colonies, we see a rectangle like the Greek letter Π, construction with writing on its base. It is the altar of the temple of Apollo. Dedication as construction by the islanders of Chios, located in the northeast of the Aegean Sea. It was in the 5th century B.C. when the people of the island constructed and dedicated the altar. Black and white marble had been sent from the island of Chios to build the altar. That’s why the authority of Delphi gave the right to the citizens of Chios to have the first prophecy and not be part of a waiting list. So, three places had the right to have the prophecy Apollo given once a month and for nine months, through Pythia the Great Priestess. These places were: Delphi, Athens, and the island of Chios.On the altar, the high priests were sacrificing the animals, there were offerings by the people or authorities of city-state, showing like that their respect. We do know that on the 7th day of the month and for nine months, Apollo could give the prophecies through “Pythia”, that was the way the oracle was functioning. At certain times though, “Pythia” had to serve as the instrument of God Apollo without being used on that specific day of the month. So how did they know when Apollo was willing and if he was willing to give the prophecy through her? How did they know that Apollo was there as a spirit to occupy “Pythia” and speak through her? How did they know that Apollo was there as a spirit to occupy Pythia and speak through her?We do know that Apollo was there with a way that they had and it had to do with a ram or a goat were placing on the altar of the God. Let’s say that the representative of the city state was there on a different day of the month and had a very urgent matter. He was offering a ram or a goat. The high priest were placed on the altar the ram/goat and were throwing cold water on the neck of the animal. If the animal was shaking, it meant that Apollo was there could give the prophecy.That’s how the animal was getting sacrificed, and they were completing the procedure. Mary, do you have something you would like to add?- Yes, please. We do also know that the representative of the city-states, or the kings of barbarian countries (according to the ancient Greek belief, those who were not Greeks were barbarians foreigners), or all of them who were using this technique of prophecies with the presence of God, were not paying money but instead were offering a kind of “sweet pie” (pelanos) that according to their social level could be pretty expensive. Later they could dedicate complexes of statues made with precious materials or offer an amount of money. Thousands of statues-masterpieces were decorating the sanctuary of Apollo, where most of them had been taken away by the Romans (Nero time) and by the time of Constantine the Great (4th century A.D.)

Stop 13 - The Column of the Snakes

Taking advantage of this Mary, we can understand the importance of Delphi and the size of these offerings by the column of bronze, representing the body of 3 snakes, ending to a snake tail, located across the altar. The original snake-tail column is in Constantinople (Istanbul) as it had been taken away among other objects by Constantine the Great.The complex we know was an offering of 31 Greek city-states and they were these places participated in the last Persian war at the field of Plataie (2.500 years ago). The cities had dedicated a tripod where the base was three snake heads ending to a snake-tail hollow column (outstanding metallic construction of column) and above the snakeheads were placed on a giant golden vase. When Constantine the Great took the complex, the vase did not exist; it had already been taken away centuries ago by a Greek city-state in one of the sacred wars that the neighbour cities were doing in order to have the sanctuary and its wealth under control.

Stop 14 - The reveal of a name: Delphi

Passing in between the altar and the bases of important and valuable donations, we see the remains of the temple in full sight. As a matter of fact, the temple is visible from the first moment, even from the road that comes from Athens, the Agora (forum) of the sanctuary, the spot of Omphalos, and the polygonal retaining wall. Even if we are being preserved only 7 Doric style columns of local limestone material columns and the floor of the building, still our gaze gets attracted, and with eagerness, we try to find the spot of the oracle. We try to imagine how exactly Pythia was becoming the instrument of Apollo and where was the place of this transformation, where was the oracle? Is it a room? A stone? A hole in the ground? Or maybe was “Pythia”? What do you think? Let’s try to clear the matter as we pass the temple and stop above the building to see it from up high and understand it better.So, now we had followed the path that is passing and turning in front of the temple, above a wooden bridge where underneath a water spring was running “Kassotes” and was becoming subterranean and was also passing under the floor of the temple, like that we are reaching the terrace above the temple, feeling that we are nesting in the opening of the Faidriades and protected naturally.Perfect moment as we are looking at the temple from the north side to explain the name of the area and the name “Delphi”.Three different explanations with common base which is the God Apollo. According to the explanation for the name “Delphi”, the story says that the first priests of Apollo were fishermen from Crete. Due to stormy weather and after a long sailing to various places, their boat sank close to the coast of Delphi. A dolphin saved them. It is believed that the dolphin was Apollo transfigured like that. The fishers showed their respect and became the first priests of Apollo by god’s will. In Greek, the word dolphin is delphine; through centuries derived the word “Delphi”.The second explanation and the name of the place are connected with the fraternity, the brotherhood (amphictyony) that was ruling. We've said that the amphictyony was a brotherhood, similar to the brotherhood of the universities. Twelve ancient Greek tribes were elected from each tribe two members. With political and religious power, the amphictyony of Delphi obtained panhellenic character, meaning importance for all Greeks of the main Greek land and the Greeks living in the colonies around the Mediterranean Sea. Their duty was to keep Delphi's place neutral and independent, like the United Nations of nowadays. In Greek, the word "amphictyony" is adelphoteta through the centuries derived the term "Delphi".There is a third explanation though that the archaeologists accept more. The word “Delphi” is a primitive pre-Greek word, meaning that the tracks of the name are getting noticed even before the war of Troy which is like 3.500 years ago. Actually we are losing the tracks of the name through the ages. The word “Delphi” means “uterus”. What sort of explanation is that then?We start bringing to our memory the cult of Gaia, a female and the guardian protector of the place "Python". Apollo replaced all that, but the meaning of the place remained, as it had to do with the area's morphology. We see this landscape result of convulsions and earthquakes. We remember what we've said about the landscape: the sanctuary is nesting in an opening of the ground with natural protection. Matching these elements, we understand why they nominated the "Delphi = uterus" area. After all, from the same uterus of the mother are usually the brothers.Analysing the syllables of the Greek word brother = adelphos and we do see that one of the syllables is Delph that means uterus. Proving that the character of the place was so particular and important due to the past and the meaning that it had among the Greeks also became important to those who were not Greeks. Like that, Delphi was not only a centre of Greeks but also a centre of foreigners meaning it was an international centre. A centre of the Earth where the truth was hiding in the conscience of humans. And all this was getting completed inside the temple.

Stop 15 - The Temple of Apollo: the Prophecy

The temple that we see was the 6th effort of construction. According to the myths, the first temples were constructed with elements that were showing the cult of Apollo, for instance, laurel wood, as the laurel tree was the favourite tree of the Gods, or bee wax and feathers copper.We imagine elementary constructions with these materials. But this temple of the 4th century B.C. cost millions if we want to calculate with nowadays money. And the amount of cash was the offering of people and authorities of the Greek city-states, but not only. It gets constructed after the strong earthquake of 373 B.C. that destroyed the previous one. This new temple was constructed with the local hard grey titan-stone from the local quarries.The temple faces the east and had six Doric style columns in front, six at the back, the west and fifteen on the long sides. It had three rooms like the front room and followed the long main room of the temple that probably had columns inside of Ionic style. The last back room of the building usually was operating as Treasury meaning the high priests were keeping precious objects.Seeing the remains of the temple in front of us becomes very difficult to imagine what exactly the building was looking like. On the other hand, the marble was decorating the façade and the decorations of the pediments. The ancient historians are talking about a hidden-secret room, negligible on a lower level, inside the long main room of the temple, that now the whole floor is missing and was called “abaton”. It was the room where “Pythia” was entering and, under the spell of “Apollo”, was becoming the instrument, the oracle of the God. A small rectangular-like room-shaped place was located three meters lower (9 feet underground) and in direct contact with it.A few days before the specific day of the prophecies, Pythia was fasting, and three days before the prophecy day was skipping water too. Early morning at dawn on the 7th of the month, and for nine months, except winter, Pythia was following the path and was making her way to the fountain of Castalia. As she was washing, she returned at a slow pace and entered the temple. From that moment, nobody could see her again. Wearing a long white veil was entering the abaton, and she was burning bay leads or chewing them. As she was also breathing a vapor (gas) that was coming out of the gutter of the floor, Pythia was dropping in ecstasy. She was sitting on a deep-high tripod (a vase on three legs) to be protected. Pythia had illusions; it was when God Apollo was occupying her body and mind. Through her, Apollo was speaking to the ones who were asking the question.The representative of the city-state had also been purified was entering inside the temple with one of the high priests. They had to stop in front of the wall of the abaton - the hidden room and with a loud voice to ask the question. The high priest was repeating it. The questions had to do with strategy and policy or crucial for a kingdom matter.That's why Delphi was such an important place that could change or influence the world's fate destiny. Pythia was replying with loud sounds-cries, and the high priests who had the excellent knowledge were translating these sounds. Often, the prophecies were unclear and ambiguous, with more than one meaning. That's why misunderstandings were taking place, as it was the duty of the humans to understand the oracle-prophecy by using their logic and conscience. The responsibility was always on them and never on the God or Pythia, or the sanctuary. This is what Apollo was demanding from the humans to be reasonable logical. In order to prepare the humans spiritually, there were on the walls of the first room of the temple the Delphians orders, phrases said by the seven wise philosophers. We know, for sure, at least two phrases: “Nothing in excess” and “Know yourself”. If and when humans know their limits and know themselves and their abilities, only then can they understand the prophecies, which was so tricky on the other hand.Mary do we have any historical examples?- Absolutely! The first one is the oracle that had been given to the Spartans to their question “If you could win the Peloponnesian War” was “if you fight with all your forces, you will win”. The second one is the impressive oracle was the one that had been given to the arrogant king Kroissus, ruler of Lydia, in Asia Minor. The king wanted to know if his almost mute but intelligent son would speak. The Oracle replied to the king that he should not have wished to listen to his son's voice because he would speak the day of his father’s catastrophe. It is a fact that when the king's enemies invaded the kingdom, a soldier entered the palace to kill the king without knowing who he was. At that moment, the mute son of Croesus cried out not to kill his father. The continuation of the story is yours, Anna- Great! So, Pythia was a woman of a certain age. Even if she had a family, from the moment she was getting selected to be the priestess, she had to abandon her family, and for the rest of her life, she had to spend it in the sanctuary. She had strong morality or maybe the sixth sense to be alert,It’s of great importance to realize the location of the temple. Always located on that spot, almost to the centre of the sanctuary and constructed above a gap of the ground, the hidden-mystic room was spotted above rifts. As the water of the spring was running under the temple, the water was bringing out gas of ethylene and ethanon. Ethylene is a sweet gas that is used in medicine to cause anaesthesia.The historians describe the place to have a sweet fragrance. It is clear now, after research under the temple and around the sanctuary, that due to the water of the two springs that the sanctuary had, the gas was finding access under the opening of the temple floor, while the Omphalos was like a regulator. For sure, the sacred laurel tree inside the abaton could make the smell even stronger. After all, the cracking of the one rocky hill of Faidriades which is in front of the temple proves the seismic activity.The reason why we don’t see anything of that now has the routes in the Christian time. As the cult of Apollo and the existence of the sanctuary was a threat, that’s why gradually the place got destroyed. The hidden room, abaton, either got demolished by the Christians as it was representing the heart of paganism or maybe when the ancient Greeks had demolished it to avoid passing it into the hands of the Christians.

Stop 16 - The Theatre

As we keep climbing towards the theatre, the only remaining visible in the centuries, worth saying that Delphi was not the only prophecy place of the ancient Greek world. There were also other places, but it was the most important one. It was the only one that Divine presence was there visible.Meanwhile, they were using other common ways to predict the future, like the flying of the birds, the formation of clouds or the combination of the teeth of the snake “Python” certain times that they were using them as dice.Keep in mind that the ancient Greek world is a world of balance and harmony, The ancient Greeks were against nature and always were celebrating and worshipping the cult. Apollo for Delphi was the God of logic and responsibility. We saw that was demanding from the people to use both of them. But people can’t always be in limits and they must relax and they have to feel so we do know that in the same sanctuary, same temple the three months in the winter showing respect and honour of Dionysus (Bacchus) the god of wine. He was the God of enthusiasm and feeling. Apollo according to the belief was leaving from Delphi to the northern places, that was in the winter time so this was the moment where people were enjoying the benefits of Dionysus cult.In springtime, the rebirth of nature occurs with the arrival of Apollo again back to the sanctuary. And there we are in front of the theatre of Delphi. We do see a perfect shape like a horse-shoe orchestra. On the natural slope of the hill are situated the audience's seats made of grey hard titan stone. The capacity of the theatre reaches the 5.000 spectators. While the stage is like a low wall, once it was decorated with the labours of Hercules, which are exhibited in the museum of Delphi. The reason why it was a low stage was to allow the view of the landscape. Between the orchestra and the stage, a path is passing, indicating access to the theatre. Always open-air buildings the theatres without a roof and on a natural side of a hill and in the beginning, did not have seats. The people were sitting directly on the slope of the hill. The same for the theatre of Delphi, without being clear though if the first seats were made of wood.2.400 years ago, in the 4th century B.C., the theatre obtained stone seats. In Roman time 2.100 years ago, the theatre gets reconstructed and renovated to what we see now. The orchestra was paved during that time as the shape of it. Meanwhile, around the orchestra till now is visible a water pipe for the rainwater access. Rhythmical dances and musical competitions were getting organized finally every four years in ancient times. It was in 1927 and after 2.000 years, the theatre of Delphi had been used again; a drama was presented as an honour to the idea of the Delphian celebrations and a revival of the Delphian spiritual light.

Stop 17 - The Stadium & the Pythian Games

What do you say Maria? Shall we go higher?- Sure Anna! Following the path from the theatre and after 10’ climbing, on the highest point of the site, the best-preserved ancient stadium of the Greek territory is located. Let’s go!- Take a deep breath and step over! We left behind us the ancient water fountains and their cisterns, one of the main reasons for the construction of the sanctuary on that spot. The landscape is unique, is lifting the soul and mind. All this is getting complete with the existence of the stadium. There, thousands of years ago used to be the place where athletic games, for sure running and later on similar to the Olympic game’s events, were held. Part of the big, religious celebration, known as “Pythian” games, probably were lasting 6 to 8 days, and they were naked games; athletes were participating like that and of course the musical competitions were following. It was the way to show respect to God.Maybe the athletic games were not being held from the very first moment in the stadium. There is the theory that they were getting organized in the valley of the olive trees. But through centuries and in the classical time (5th century B.C.) are being transferred in the stadium. To participate in the Pythian Games, a truce of 3 months was being imposed to secure like safe trips from and to their cities. The reward of the Games was a wreath of laurel for the winners of the games.Approaching the stadium from the eastern side, we do see three broken monumental arches, the only stadium of the ancient Greek world with a monumental entrance. Behind the grand opening, still are located on the rock, a base of 5 steps older remaining of the stadium. It makes sense seeing previous remains, as the stadium had been reconstructed in the Roman times on the 2nd A.D. by Herodes Atticus, who was a benefactor, philosopher, friend of the Roman emperor Hadrian.In front of the broken, monumental entrance, the starting line still preserves the gaps for the feet of the athletes. Stepped ground and almost round shape, the length of the stadium was 178 meters, nearly 600 feet, was reduced to 177,414 meters in Roman time. On the right side of the stadium still are preserved the seats for the spectators, almost 12 lines being split up to 12 sectors. The seats with a back were for the authority. Like an aqueduct, a water pipe on the slope keeps repeating the importance of helping the water find access. The back (west) and the left side had also been seated. The left side probably has the same number of seats as the right part that, due to earthquakes and destruction, don’t exist anymore, only piles of stones. The retaining of the local material wall is there to remind us of the importance of its existence.An interesting inscription of the 2nd B.C. is still visible on the left part of the stadium. It refers to the performance of a hymn for the God and Hellenes (Greeks) by the musician Satyr of Samos.The capacity of the stadium could reach about 6.500 spectators. It was in 394 A.D. when the stadium got abandoned. Already the decay of the sanctuary is obvious. After the looting of the precious objects by the Romans and Constantine the Great, the final destruction caused by humans was by order of the emperor Theodosius in that year 394 A.D. that ceased its operation. Not only of the stadium but also of the whole sanctuary. Strong earthquakes complete the destruction of the sanctuary. Rocks are falling, and the ground starts covering the buildings. Till 1438 the stadium was visible, but in the years was covered with dirt, and shepherds were breeding animals. The theatre was almost covered as we said, and a few Christians’ houses were around. The shape of the theatre was always visible, though. The Christian village Kastri was on the top of the ruins.“Apollo does not live here anymore, the spring does not speak, the water becomes mute”. This was the last prophecy of this remarkable place that was given to the emperor Julian the offender, in the 4th A.D. Thank you for the companion, and we hope you enjoyed this tour of Delphi. You can either exit the way you came in or join us on the following audio tour and go straight to the Archaeological Museum of Delphi, one of the most important museums in Greece with one of the best masterpieces of the country that exhibits there, the Chariote of Delphi.And with other exhibits from the Delphi sanctuary, the sanctuary dedicated to God Apollo, the Oracle of the God. If you‘re up for even more sightseeing, visit our website at www.keytours.gr and choose among plenty of guided tours covering great sites of Greek history. Antio sas!

Delphi: The Navel of the Earth
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