Hadrian's Wall & Northumberland Preview

Audio commentary and script © Mountain Goat Ltd 2026. All rights reserved. No part of this recording may be copied, reproduced, distributed, translated, stored, broadcast, or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Unauthorized use, duplication, or commercial exploitation of this audio content is strictly prohibited.

Windermere village is situated just over one mile from the lake. Previously a village called Birthwaite, the town grew as a result of the railway station. Created due to local commercial interest in Kendal after the mainline went elsewhere, industrial leaders wanted the railway to head north to make use of the region's settlements and raw materials, such as iron ore and steel. Thanks to William Wordsworth, the famous poet who protested the railway through letter writing and rallying public opinion, the railway was never developed beyond Windermere. As the final stop on the line, Windermere became a crucial gateway, transforming the area into a popular tourist destination and leading to the development of the town.

We are now approaching White Cross Bay, which is a Park Dean Holiday Resort, but it holds a remarkable and often overlooked wartime history.

During the Second World War, this tranquil lakeside setting was transformed into a secret aircraft production site operated by the Short Brothers. Built in 1941, the facility was deliberately positioned inland to protect it from German bombing raids, while Windermere itself provided an ideal natural runway for testing large seaplanes.

It was here that the Short Sunderland flying boat, one of Britain’s most important maritime patrol aircraf was assembled and launched. The Sunderland was a massive four-engine flying boat used by the Royal Air Force for long-range reconnaissance, anti-submarine warfare, and search and rescue missions across the Atlantic.

Known as the “Flying Porcupine” due to its heavy defensive armament, it played a crucial role in countering German U-boats. Between 1942 and 1944, dozens of these aircraft were built at White Cross Bay, with many more repaired and tested on the lake. After the war, the factory was dismantled and the area gradually returned to civilian use, eventually becoming the holiday park seen today.

Brockhole on Windermere is one of the Lake District’s most popular visitor attractions. Today it’s a lively centre for families, outdoor activities, and cultural events.

At the heart of Brockhole is a striking historic house designed by the renowned Arts and Crafts architect Dan Gibson. Built in 1899, the house was originally a private residence, showcasing elegant design, traditional craftsmanship, and beautiful detailing. Surrounding it are landscaped gardens designed by the famous garden designer Thomas Mawson.

In 1966, the estate was opened to the public as a visitor centre, allowing people to enjoy both its natural beauty and its heritage.

At 10.5 miles long, one mile wide, and 220 feet deep, Windermere is the largest natural lake in both the Lake District and England. As a ribbon lake formed by glaciers during the last Ice Age, it is fed by numerous rivers. Its name is strictly just "Windermere", but "Lake Windermere" is often used to distinguish it from the nearby town. The lake is dotted with 18 islands, the largest of which is the privately owned Belle Isle. This 40-acre island holds a unique circular mansion built in 1774, the first of its kind in England. Windermere’s waters have also been the stage for historic speed records; in 1930, Sir Henry Segrave broke the world water speed record here in his boat, Miss England II, reaching nearly 100 mph.

The Romans established an important presence in Ambleside at what is now Borrans Field. Around AD 79, under the command of Julius Agricola, a wooden fort known as Galava was constructed on an artificial mound. This raised position was chosen to help defend the site.

In AD 122, during the reign of Hadrian, the fort was rebuilt in stone, providing a more permanent and resilient structure. Galava housed a cohort of approximately 500 Roman soldiers, making it a significant outpost in the region.

The fort’s main purpose was to protect a vital Roman road that linked Ambleside to the western coastal port of Ravenglass, known to the Romans as Glannaventa. This road formed part of a wider network, connecting Galava through Troutbeck to Penrith (Brocavum) and further south to York (Eboracum), illustrating the strategic importance of Ambleside within Roman Britain.

At the northern end of Windermere is the popular market town of Ambleside, perfectly located in the heart of the national park. Surrounded by majestic Lakeland fells, Ambleside’s roots are in the medieval woollen trade, but the town you see today is primarily Victorian, built of traditional grey slate. With easy access to Grasmere, Keswick, Windermere and an unrivalled range of water sports, Ambleside is very popular with leisure visitors. Ambleside’s origins date from Romans, who built a stone fort at Waterhead called Galava. It is thought that Ambleside may have been named after a Norseman called Amal meaning summer pasture. Ambleside was granted a market charter in 1650, and Market Place became the commercial centre for agriculture and the wool trade.

Ambleside Bridge House is one of the most distinctive and historic buildings in the Lake District. Built around 1650, it stands uniquely over Stock Beck, a design thought to have been chosen to avoid paying land taxes. Despite its small size, the building has served many purposes over the centuries, reflecting the changing needs of the local community.

Originally, it functioned as an apple store and summer house for the nearby Ambleside Hall. By the 1850s, it had become the home of John “Chairy” Rigg, a basket maker and chair repairer, who remarkably raised a family of six children within its confined space. This period highlights both the building’s practicality and the resilience of those who lived there.

In later years, Bridge House took on a variety of roles, including a tea room, weaving shop, cobbler’s workshop, pigeon loft, leather store, and antique shop. Each use added to its rich and varied history.

In 1926, the building was purchased by local residents and donated to the National Trust, ensuring its preservation. Today, it stands as a symbol of Ambleside’s heritage and ingenuity.

Rydal is deeply connected to William Wordsworth. While he is often linked with Dove Cottage, it was Rydal Mount that became his beloved long-term home. He lived there from 1813 until his death in 1850, and the house, set in beautifully designed gardens, remains open to visitors today.

Nearby, Dora's Field offers a more personal glimpse into Wordsworth’s life. Named after his daughter, the field bursts into life each spring with thousands of daffodils, echoing the poet’s enduring connection to nature. Together, these elements make Rydal a place where landscape and literary history blend seamlessly.

Rydal offers a quieter but equally enchanting slice of the Lake District. At its heart lies Rydal Water, a relatively small lake, just over a mile long, but one that feels expansive thanks to its dramatic surroundings. The calm surface often mirrors Loughrigg Fell, creating striking reflections that change with the light and seasons.

Rydal is a wonderful place for gentle exploration. A popular walk leads along the lakeshore and then up toward Rydal Cave, a man-made cavern carved from old slate workings. Its stepping stones and cathedral-like interior give it a slightly mysterious atmosphere, making it a favourite for visitors.

Grasmere is admired for its peaceful and timeless character. Surrounded by rolling fells and lush greenery, the village has a distinctly traditional feel, with stone cottages built from local bluish-green slate and narrow, winding streets that reflect its historic past. Despite its popularity, Grasmere retains a calm and intimate atmosphere, making it a favourite stop for visitors seeking both beauty and tranquillity.

At the centre of the landscape is Grasmere Lake, a small but striking body of water, Grasmere Water is 1 mile long, half a mile wide and 75 feet deep. Although modest in size, the lake is known for its quiet charm, with gently rippling waters and ever-changing reflections of the surrounding hills. Its scale makes it feel accessible and peaceful, perfect for lakeside walks where the scenery can be appreciated at a relaxed pace. The soft light and natural colours of the area have long inspired artists and visitors alike.

Grasmere is best known as the home of Poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorethy. Wordsworth's memory is heavily present throughout Grasmere with his former home, Dove Cottage being one of the most popular attractions, which can be visited along with a museum dedicated to his work.

With its combination of scenic beauty, distinctive architecture, and enduring local culture, Grasmere offers a rich yet gentle experience that captures the essence of the Lake District.

This is also where Sarah Nelson's famous Grasmere Gingerbread originated; her bakery is located next to St Oswald's Church, Wordsworth's burial site.

Dunmail Raise is a dramatic mountain pass, marking the watershed between the northern and southern fells. Sitting at around 238 metres above sea level, it forms a natural divide between Thirlmere to the north and Grasmere to the south. Today, it is crossed by the A591, one of the main routes through the National Park, but its significance stretches far beyond its role as a modern road.

Steeped in legend, Dunmail Raise is traditionally believed to be the burial place of Dunmail, the last king of Cumbria. According to local folklore, he was defeated in battle by the forces of the Scottish king and the English king Edmund I in the 10th century. After his death, it is said that Dunmail was laid to rest beneath a large cairn of stones at the summit of the pass. Even today, visitors can see this mound, and for generations it was customary for travellers to add a stone to the pile as they passed, helping to preserve the memory of the fallen king.

Deep within the shadow of Helvellyn and Dollywagon sits the man-made reservoir of Thirlmere. Originally two smaller lakes called Leatheswater and Brackmere, the area including a small hamlet was submerged by the building of a large dam in the late 1800s to provide a water source for Manchester. The dam was the first of its kind, raising the water level by over 50 feet. Today, the water travels nearly 100 miles to Manchester via a gravity-fed aqueduct that requires no pumps. As the view widens at Thirlspot, you get brilliant views of Blencathra and the entrance to St John's in the Vale. There is a small hillside church that is well worth a visit.

St John's in the Vale is a quiet valley just south of Keswick. Sheltered between the imposing bulk of Blencathra and the gentler ridge of High Rigg, the valley has a peaceful, enclosed feel that sets it apart from busier tourist areas nearby.

Unlike many parts of the Lake District, St John’s in the Vale has no lake, but its beauty lies in its open green pastures, dry stone walls, and sweeping views of surrounding fells. The valley floor is dotted with traditional farms and narrow lanes, giving it a timeless, rural character. Walking routes here are quieter and less crowded, making it ideal for those looking to experience the landscape at a slower pace. At its heart stands the tiny St John's in the Vale Church, often described as one of the most isolated churches in the Lake District.

Keswick is the most northerly of the Lake District’s towns. Situated at the northern end of beautiful Derwentwater, it is surrounded by large fells including Skiddaw and Blencathra, two of the most popular peaks for hikers. It is the perfect spot to explore this part of the National Park, notably the valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere. Prosperity came to Keswick in the 16th century with the extraction of minerals. With no local mining expertise, skilled German miners were drafted in to work the copper and lead mines in the Newlands Valley. The later discovery of "wadd" knoen as graphite at Seathwaite in Borrowdale gave rise to around 14 pencil-manufacturing businesses, one of which, the Cumberland Pencil Company, was operational in Keswick until 2007. Keswick retains the appearance of a traditional market town, with a busy weekly market of around 80 stalls lining the streets on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Troutbeck is a charming villages, with a character that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Many of the buildings you see today date back to the late 17th century, constructed from local stone and set against the backdrop of rolling fells. The village stretches along the valley rather than clustering around a central square, giving it a peaceful, linear layout that reflects its agricultural roots.

One of Troutbeck’s most important natural features is its location along a spring line. This means the village benefits from a reliable and abundant supply of fresh water, which has supported settlement here for generations. As you travel through, you may notice several wells on the left-hand side of the road. These are not only practical sources of water but also carry historic and sometimes spiritual significance.

Each well is traditionally named, often after saints, such as St. John’s Well, St. Margaret’s Well, and St. James’ Well. In earlier times, such wells would have been vital gathering points for villagers, providing water for drinking, cooking, and farming.

At the foot of the Kirkstone Pass, lying just to the south of Ullswater, is Brotherswater. It is a small body of water surrounded by rolling fells and larger mountains such as High Street. Due to its shallow depth, Water lilies bloom in July, providing colour. To the north-east of Brothers Water is the village of Hartsop, which has several 17th-century stone farm buildings and cottages. Some of the buildings still contain spinning-rooms where villagers would have made their own clothing, selling any surplus in the local market towns. The word Hartsop means "valley of the deer", which would have lived in the woodlands of the lower areas of the surrounding fells.

We are now approaching the small, scenic village of Patterdale which sits at the southern end of Ullswater Lake.

Historically, Patterdale has been a quiet farming community, with traditional stone cottages and a strong connection to sheep farming. Today, it remains peaceful compared to busier Lake District hubs, making it ideal for those wanting a more tranquil outdoor experience.

We will pass, St Patrick’s Well is a small but historically interesting feature located near St Patrick's Church. The church itself dates to at least the 12th century, though it likely stands on an even older religious site.

The well is considered a holy well, a type of spring traditionally believed to have spiritual or healing properties. Many such wells across Britain are linked to early Christian saints, often built on sites that were already significant in pre-Christian times.

Glenridding, meaning “glen overgrown with bracken” can be found at the foot of the famous Kirkstone Pass at the southern end of Ullswater Lake. Glenridding was once the centre of the lead mining industry, now this is in the past, the area is mainly for the tourists who come to view one of the most beautiful areas in the Lakes. A lot of walkers come here is to do the classic Helvellyn walk along Striding Edge. A walk not for the fainted hearted with Helvellyn reaching a height of 3,116ft.

Blencathra, also known as Saddleback, is one of the most distinctive and beloved mountains in the Lake District. Rising to 868 metres, it dominates the skyline to the north-east of Keswick and is easily recognised by its broad, saddle-shaped summit and dramatic ridges. Its unique form sets it apart from many other fells, giving it a striking presence from almost every angle.

The mountain is a favourite among walkers and climbers, offering a variety of routes to the summit. The most famous of these is Sharp Edge, a narrow and exposed ridge that provides an exhilarating scramble for those with a head for heights. On the opposite side lies Hall’s Fell Ridge, a slightly less exposed but equally rewarding ascent. For those seeking a gentler approach, there are more gradual routes from the surrounding valleys, making Blencathra accessible to a wide range of abilities.

Geologically, Blencathra is composed mainly of Skiddaw Slate, some of the oldest rock in the Lake District, formed over 450 million years ago. Its steep slopes and deep corries were shaped by glaciers during the last Ice Age, creating the rugged and sculpted landscape seen today.

Blencathra also holds a special place in local culture and history. It is owned by a charitable trust, ensuring it remains protected for public enjoyment. The mountain has inspired countless writers and walkers, including Alfred Wainwright, who described it as one of the finest fells in the district.

Alongside us is Gowbarrow, a narrow strip of woodland between the road and the lakeshore. It was here, in this quiet and unassuming setting, that one of the most famous moments in English literary history took place. In the spring of 1802, William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy were walking together when they came across a remarkable sight, wild daffodils dancing along the water’s edge.

Dorothy, a keen observer of nature, recorded the moment in her journal with vivid detail. She described how the flowers “tossed and reeled and danced,” stirred by the breeze beside the lake. Her writing captured not just the scene, but the movement and feeling of the landscape, bringing it to life in a way that would prove incredibly influential.

William later read Dorothy’s diary entry, and it inspired him to compose what would become one of his most celebrated poems, I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud, more commonly known simply as Daffodils. Although the poem is closely associated with that day in April 1802, the version we know today was actually refined and published years later, in 1815. Wordsworth was known for continually revisiting and revising his work, carefully shaping his poetry over time.

Stretching for 7.5 miles through the eastern edge of the Lake District, Ullswater is often described as the most beautiful of all the lakes. Ullswater has a graceful, winding, almost serpentine shape, carved by a powerful glacier during the last Ice Age. As you travel along its shores, you’ll notice how the landscape constantly changes. To the southwest, the dramatic peaks of the Borrowdale Volcanics rise steeply above the water, while along the northern shores, softer Skiddaw Slates create a gentler, rolling countryside. Towards Pooley Bridge, the distinctive shape of Dunmallard Hill marks a shift again, before the land softens into sandstone and limestone at the northeastern end.

At its deepest point, over 200 feet near Glencoyne, the lake holds dark, still waters, while at its narrowest point, known as Skelly Nab, it becomes much shallower. This spot takes its name from the “skelly,” a rare freshwater whitefish once caught here in large numbers using nets stretched across the lake. Alongside these, Ullswater is home to trout, perch, roach, and eel, though interestingly, you won’t find pike or char here.

Ullswater has also played its part in more recent history. In 1955, Sir Donald Campbell set his first world water speed record on these very waters, reaching an incredible 202 miles per hour, an achievement commemorated near the lakeshore today.The lake you see today was almost transformed into a reservoir in the 1960s. However, thanks to the determined efforts of Lord Birkett, this natural landscape was preserved.

The story of the Roman Empire began with only a small settlement along the banks of the Tiber River. According to legend, it was founded by Romulus in 753 BCE, and it is from his name that the people of Rome came to be called “Romans.” What began as a modest village of huts grew steadily into a powerful city, its people united not just by geography, but by a shared identity, language, and ambition.

In its earliest days, Rome was a monarchy, before evolving into a republic governed by elected officials and the Senate. This system allowed Rome to expand its influence across Italy and beyond. One of the key reasons for this success was its highly organised and disciplined military. Unlike many of its rivals, Rome developed a professional standing army: soldiers who were trained, equipped, and ready to fight at all times. These legions were known for their strict discipline, innovative tactics, and remarkable engineering skills, building roads, forts, and bridges as they advanced.

As Rome’s territory expanded, so too did its power, eventually transforming into an empire under rulers like Augustus. From Britain to Egypt, the Roman Empire became one of the largest and most influential civilisations in history and it was thought the Roman military force totalled around 300,000 to 350,000 soldiers. Yet, despite its vast reach, its identity always traced back to that small riverside beginning.

In 55 BCE, the first shadows of Rome stretched across the sea to Britain, led by the ambitious general Julius Caesar. At the time, Britain was a land of tribal kingdoms, unfamiliar terrain, and fierce warriors, very different from the ordered world Rome was used to controlling. Caesar’s initial expedition was not a full invasion, but more of a daring reconnaissance, testing the strength and resolve of the island’s inhabitants.

Landing on the southern coast, his forces faced immediate resistance. British warriors, chariots racing along the shoreline, met the Romans as they struggled to disembark. Despite the chaos, Caesar managed to establish a temporary foothold. However, with unpredictable weather, limited supplies, and strong opposition, he soon withdrew. He returned again in 54 BCE with a larger force, pushing further inland and securing alliances with some tribes.

Although these expeditions did not result in permanent conquest, they marked the beginning of Britain’s story with Rome. Nearly a century later, a full invasion would follow under Emperor Claudius.

In AD 43, the Roman Empire turned ambition into action as Emperor Claudius ordered the full-scale invasion of Britain. Unlike the earlier expeditions of Julius Caesar, this was no brief incursion, this was colonisation. Roman legions landed in the south and pushed steadily inland, defeating tribal resistance and establishing control over much of what is now England and Wales.

Claudius himself even travelled to Britain, a rare move for an emperor, to oversee the final stages of conquest and to claim victory. Roman forces advanced far beyond where Hadrian's Wall would later stand, reaching deep into northern Britain and even into parts of modern-day Scotland. For a time, Rome attempted to hold these distant territories, building forts and roads to secure their presence.

However, the further north they went, the harder it became to maintain control. The land was rugged, the weather harsh, and local tribes fiercely resistant. Supplying troops across such terrain stretched Roman resources, and the economic return was limited compared to the south.

Long before Hadrian came to power, Rome had already begun to reconsider its northern ambitions. Eventually, the empire chose consolidation over expansion, focusing on defending what was valuable rather than holding what was difficult, leaving much of Scotland beyond their lasting control.

The story of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Romans may be separated by centuries, but they are linked through the historic landscape around Brampton. In 1745, during the Jacobite Rising, Prince Charles Edward Stuart marched south with his army, aiming to reclaim the British throne. As he approached Carlisle, a city steeped in Roman history, the echoes of the ancient empire still lingered in its walls and roads.

Brampton became a key moment in this story. It is said that while staying there, Bonnie Prince Charlie was presented with the keys to Carlisle Castle, a symbolic gesture of surrender that opened the way for his forces to take the city. This moment tied the quiet market town directly to one of the most dramatic episodes in British history.

Carlisle itself had been a significant Roman stronghold, guarding the western end of Hadrian's Wall. Nearly 1,600 years later, it again stood as a strategic prize.

Lanercost Priory is an impressive red sandstone sanctuary, its stones famously drawn from nearby Hadrian’s Wall. Set in a beautifully secluded position beside the gentle flow of the River Irthing. It was founded in 1166 by Robert de Vallibus for Augustinian Canons, and consecrated in 1169, the priory has witnessed centuries of history, endurance, and quiet resilience.

Though little is recorded of its early years, it undoubtedly suffered during the Scottish raids of the 12th century and the upheaval of the Dissolution in 1536, when its buildings passed to Sir Thomas Dacre of Naworth. One of its most notable moments came in 1306, when Edward I and his court stayed here for six months after the king fell ill while travelling north to confront the Scots.

Today, the restored nave serves as the parish church, carefully revived in the 18th century. While the monastic quarters remain more fragmentary, the south transept stands as one of the best-preserved original sections, with its broad Norman buttresses and round-arched doorway dating from around 1175–1180. Inside, traces of monastic life remain, including an upper doorway once linked to the dormitory.

Later additions, including stained glass by Morris & Co. and monuments designed by Edward Burne-Jones, enrich the priory further.

Hare Hill is the tallest remaining stretch of Hadrian's Wall, standing up to 3 metres high. It probably survived because it was later built into the wall of a medieval structure. In the 19th century it was substantially rebuilt, using Roman masonry which was probably retrieved from the surrounding area. Originally, the Wall here was part of the 30-mile stretch between the river Irthing and Bowness-on-Solway which was made of turf. Towards the end of Hadrian’s reign AD 117–38, this was replaced by a stone wall 2.32 metres wide. Hare Hill is a small section of this, surviving up to 3 metres high, approximately two-thirds of the original full height of about 4.5 metres.

Looking to the right Banks East, is the best-preserved turret or observation tower in the western sector of Hadrian’s Wall. Here the Wall, instigated on the orders of the emperor Hadrian in AD 122, was originally made from turf. Originally there were two such turrets to every Roman mile along Hadrian’s Wall, each manned by a few soldiers watching over the frontier. Banks East Turret remained in use until late in the 4th century AD.

Turrets were typically about 6 metres square externally, recessed into the thickness of the Wall, and entered by a door in the south wall.

Using a numbering system introduced in 1930, milecastles are numbered 1 to 80 from east to west. Each pair of turrets take the same number as the nearest milecastle, plus ‘a’ for the eastern turret and ‘b’ for the western one. Banks East is turret 52a.

Also on your right, Pike Hill is one of the few visible elements of the Roman frontier that pre-date Hadrian's Wall. Before the Wall was built in the early 2nd century AD, the soldiers posted here would communicate by signalling to the forts along Stanegate, the road that ran east to west. Later incorporated into Hadrian's Wall, the tower commands magnificent views, which show exactly why this isolated site in Cumbria was chosen as a watch point.

Construction started on Hadrian’s Wall around AD 122, as part of Hadrian’s strategy of strengthening the north-west frontiers of the empire. Typically, Roman frontiers, such as the system around the Stanegate, consisted of large military bases and smaller outposts at important locations, joined by roads. The landscape was monitored but not closed off to all travel. Hadrian, however, ordered the construction of a continuous wall and V-shaped ditch north of the Stanegate, running 80 Roman miles. This effectively closed the frontier, preventing uninhibited and unmonitored access to the province.

Birdoswald, offers one of the most impressive and evocative stretches of this great Roman frontier. Here, the Wall strides eastward across the dramatic Whin Sill crags, a striking volcanic outcrop that runs all the way to the North Sea at Holy Island and the Farne Islands. Though relatively narrow at this point, the Wall rises to around 19 feet to its carefully dressed facing stones and tightly packed infill giving it remarkable strength and durability.

On the north side lies a flat strip known as the berm, beyond which a formidable V-shaped ditch stretches some 30 feet wide and 15 feet deep. The engineering is precise, its angles mirroring the height of the Wall itself, creating a powerful defensive barrier. To the south runs the Vallum, a broad ditch flanked by rounded mounds, marking a controlled military zone used for the swift movement of troops.

The fort at Birdoswald commands a breathtaking position, its gateway opening toward the gorge of the River Irthing below. Nearby, the visitor centre, opened by Princess Anne, adds a modern point of access to this ancient site.

Gilsland is a charming border village uniquely divided between Cumbria and Northumberland, with the River Irthing quietly marking the boundary between the two counties. This gentle river not only shapes the landscape but also gives Gilsland a distinctive sense of place, half in one county, half in another, yet wholly unified by its history and character.

You will see Orchard House Inn, which welcomed the great writer Sir Walter Scott during his visit in 1797.

Just ahead, Mumpshall Bridge carries the road across the River Irthing, linking the two sides of the village and offering views of the surrounding countryside. Nearby, at the main junction, Hall Terrace lines the right-hand side. This row of four houses began life as a 17th-century inn, later extended and reshaped into a terrace in the 19th century.

Gilsland also holds a literary connection through Margaret Teasdale, the long-lived landlady of Mumps Hall, who is said to have inspired the character Tib Mumps in Sir Walter Scott’s Guy Mannering, adding a touch of storytelling to this already captivating village.

The Roman Army Museum allows you to immerse yourself in the life of a Roman soldier, transporting visitors back nearly 2,000 years, through a blend of cutting-edge technology and rare artifacts. Based at the site of Magna Roman Fort the museum is situated next to one of the most complete sections of Hadrian’s Wall. Telling the story of the Roman soldier from a general empire wide perspective through to daily life on the frontier. The galleries are highlighted with objects from Vindolanda’s collection and full-scale replicas. You can view the only surviving Roman helmet crest ever discovered an incredibly delicate artifact made of hair moss, and the Quintus Sollonius phalera, a stunning silver-gilt military medal.

The local ledgend behind the name of the Twice Brewed Inn is said to have come from the eve of the Battle of Hexham in 1464, Yorkist foot soldiers demanded their beer be brewed again because it lacked its usual fighting strength. The ploy worked as the Lancastrian army later fled after an early morning raid against the rejuvenated troops.

Another version of the story suggests that the beer was so popular it was brewed twice as often as expected, reflecting the steady stream of thirsty travellers crossing this frontier landscape.

Situated close to Hadrian’s Wall, this was once a busy route for soldiers, traders, and later farmers and drovers, all of whom would have welcomed a place to rest and refresh. The remote setting made inns like this an important stop along the journey.

Looking to the left, you can see the base remains of Milecastle 39. As mentioned previously Milecastles were positioned at regular intervals to control movement across the frontier. Milecastles were placed one Roman Mile apart, this translates to roughly 1000 roman marching steps and in todays measurements 1480 metres. Some people see the humour in this milecastle as whilst positioned correctly by the roman mile measurements, the castle sits within a dip meaning the view to oversee defenses was heavily restricted.

The Sycamore Gap tree, also known as the Robin Hood tree, was a 120-year-old sycamore tree planted next to Hadrian's Wall near Crag Lough in Northumberland. Standing in a dramatic dip in the landscape created by glacial meltwater, it was one of the country's most photographed trees and an emblem for the North East of England. It earnt its alternative name from featuring in a prominent scene in the 1991 film Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. Unfortunately, the tree was illegally felled in 2023, declared as an act of vandalism. It has since sprouted from the stump and is expected to take more than 150 years to recover.

Lying midway along Hadrian’s Wall, Housesteads is the most complete example of a Roman fort in Britain. It was called the "grandest station" on the Wall and remains one of the best preserved and extensively displayed forts. It was occupied for almost 300 years and once garrisoned by 1,000 soldiers. It is aligned towards the sunrise, making the east gate the main gate. You can still see the deeply worn wheel ruts here. Vercovicium or Borcovicium were how the fort was known during Roman times.

Towards the end of the 3rd century, after Hadrian’s reign the barrack accommodation within the fort was radically transformed, and the settlement outside largely abandoned. The fort’s defences also underwent major refurbishment at this time. The effective size of the garrison is likely to have been reduced, and many of those previously living outside the fort may have retreated within the defences for security.

Vindolanda Fort is one of Europe’s most important Roman archaeological sites, sitting on the Stanegate Road, just south of Hadrian’s Wall. The on-site museum is filled with artefacts solely found during excavation projects at Vindolanda. The site has nine forts, built on top of each other, creating exciting archaeology beneath what you can see today. You can explore a stone fort dating to the third century with impressive standing remains.

Inside the fort walls are the remains of the headquarters building, the Commanding Officer’s house, barracks and more. Beyond the fort walls is a settlement with a main street, houses, shops, a tavern and a bathhouse. As an auxiliary fort, soldiers from all over the Roman Empire including Belgium, Germany and France would have lived here.

Excavations take place on the site every year and attract hundreds of volunteers from all over the world. You can see the live excavations taking place on weekdays during the summer session. The site has special soil conditions, which preserve certain artefacts amazingly.

Chesters is one of a series of permanent forts built during the construction of Hadrian’s Wall. The cavalry fort, known to the Romans as Cilurnum, was built in about AD 124. It housed around 500 cavalrymen and was occupied until the Romans left Britain in the 5th century. Pioneering excavations in the 19th century exposed the structures visible today. These excavations yielded one of the best collections of inscriptions and sculpture on Hadrian’s Wall.

In 1796 Nathaniel Clayton bought the estate, in which Chesters Fort remains. He had the ruins levelled to form a park between his mansion and the river. His son John Clayton (1792–1890) succeeded to the property in 1832, he is one of the most important figures in the 19th-century archaeology of Hadrian’s Wall, and the present-day appearance of the site is almost entirely due to excavations he conducted from 1843.

High in the North Pennines, Alston is a small market town with a big history. Today, it has a population of around 1,500, but during the height of the lead mining boom it thrived with nearly 25,000 people, its wealth drawn from rich veins of lead that yielded remarkable quantities of silver.

At the heart of the town stands the Market Cross, first erected in 1764 and rebuilt several times after dramatic mishaps, including being knocked down by a runaway lorry. Its enduring presence reflects Alston’s long-standing role as a centre of trade and community life.

You'll see the Church of St. Augustine, rooted in the 12th century and later rebuilt and restored in striking Early English style. Inside, polished granite piers, intricate carvings, and stained glass create a sense of quiet grandeur, while the historic Derwentwater clock marks time across centuries.

Nearby, the Angel Inn, dating back to the early 17th century, retains its character with original features and inscriptions, offering a glimpse into Alston’s past as a bustling hub.

Other buildings, from the 19th-century include the Town Hall to long-standing inns and bridges, add to the town’s rich architectural tapestry.

We are approaching Hartside Pass, climbing steeply through the wild beauty of the North Pennines. Rising to over 1,900 feet above sea level, it is among the highest roads in the country, offering sweeping views that stretch across Cumbria, the Eden Valley, and on clear days as far as the Lake District fells and the Solway Firth.

The road itself is a masterpiece of winding bends and steady gradients, making it a favourite for cyclists, motorcyclists, and drivers. As you ascend, the landscape opens out into vast moorland: rolling, rugged, and often windswept, where sheep graze and skylarks hover overhead.

Historically, routes like Hartside were vital for connecting remote communities across the Pennines.

Approaching is Melmerby, meaning “home in the sandy field,” a charming Eden Valley village set against the rising backdrop of the North Pennines, it is a place where history, landscape, and community blend effortlessly.

At the heart of the village stands the Shepherds Inn, its doorway still bearing the initials and date “I.S.F.S. 1789,” long known for its welcoming atmosphere and good food. Nearby, Melmerby Village Bakery has built a reputation far beyond the valley since its founding in 1976 by Andrew Whitely. With traditional brick ovens fuelled by waste wood and a five-acre organic garden, it represents a living commitment to craft and sustainability.

Melmerby Hall, with its 17th-century origins and coat of arms dated 1658, adds a quiet grandeur, while the Church of St. John the Baptist, founded in the 13th century, holds centuries of faith within its restored walls and carved medieval tombs.

The village’s name reflects its Viking heritage, shared with many nearby settlements that once lay on the edge of the great Inglewood Forest, a vast medieval hunting ground.

Approaching the village of Langwathby, you pass beneath the Settle to Carlisle Railway line, a remarkable 72-mile line which opened in 1876, famed for its 20 viaducts and 14 tunnels, an enduring feat of Victorian engineering.

The village itself has deep historical roots. Once held by Henry I, the manor passed between English and Scottish crowns before later ownership by the Dukes of Devonshire and Gloucester. Today, Langwathby retains its agricultural character, with small, historic farms, many still working, clustered especially along the west side of the village green.

Among its notable buildings is the White House, proudly bearing a datestone from 1737, built by Thomas Barrow. Its Yorkshire sash and mullioned windows reflect the architectural style of the period. On the north side of the green stands the Church of St. Peter, originally built in the 13th century and later altered and rebuilt. Inside, medieval features sit alongside later additions, including a rare display of parish armour.

Nearby, Langwathby Bridge spans the River Eden, though today’s structure replaced one lost in the great flood of 196. The village name itself “homestead by the long ford” recalls the ancient crossing that once stretched across the river.