Gallicano Walking Tour Preview

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1

Town Hall Square

The first documented news about Gallicano dates back to 771, as attested by a parchment preserved in the Episcopal Archives of Lucca, which mentions the purchase of a house by Peredeo, bishop of Lucca. The name of the town derives from Cornelio Gallicano, a Roman legionary to whom these lands were donated as a reward for his military exploits.In the following centuries, information is fragmentary until the 10th century, when Gallicano passed under the control of the Corvaia, a noble family from Lucca. Ups and downs followed until 1347, the year in which Gallicano became the capital of Vicaria.In 1370, instigated by Rolando Antelminelli, an exile from Lucca, the inhabitants rebelled against Lucca. However, after about a year, the troops of the Republic, led by Giovanni Degli Obizi, reconquered the castle and forced Gallicano and the entire Vicariate to renew their oath of loyalty to Lucca.From that moment on, a long rivalry arose between the Republic of Lucca and the Este dukes of Modena, motivated above all by economic interests: at stake were the flourishing cultivation and processing of hemp and the fishing activity on the Turrite river. The tensions calmed down only thanks to the intervention of Pope Nicholas V, who re-entrusted the Vicariate of Gallicano to the Republic of Lucca.The Vicaria followed the fortunes of the State of Lucca until 1847, when it was annexed to the Garfagnana Estense following the clauses of the Treaty of Vienna and the early cession of the Bourbon Duchy. During the Risorgimento, Gallicano passed to the Kingdom of Savoy and was aggregated to the province of Massa in 1859.Only in 1923 did it definitively return to the province of Lucca, thus returning to its natural geographical, historical and cultural context.

2

Church of San Giovanni

The church of San Giovanni Battista was built in 1486 with material from the ruins of the ancient Romanesque parish church dedicated to Saints Cassiano and Giovanni Battista, located in the old part of the town.Its construction was promoted by Domenico Bertini, an important Vatican diplomat born in Gallicano, who decided to build it where a small oratory had previously been erected, next to his birthplace.It is a stone masonry church, with a gabled façade and wooden trusses. Inside the church there are important sacred furnishings, including a wooden crucifix from the 15th century and a baptismal font in white marble from the 16th century, as well as an arched niche above it containing a Madonna with Child.

3

The Castle

In the area that is now known as “the castle” the ancient village developed, surrounded by walls and also defended by the Turrite that passes in front of it.The main access to the town was through a drawbridge supported by two bastions where the patron saints were depicted above them: Santa Barbara and San Jacopo. The distribution of the houses was roughly like the one you see today, small houses attached to each other, crossed by narrow and cramped streets.The castle walls of medieval origin had a wall composed of eleven towers, six of which are still identifiable. At their origin the castle walls had a quadrangular shape, with slightly arched sides and placed to support the natural moat offered by the Turrite stream. In correspondence with the Church of San Jacopo there was a second door; two other doors were probably present in the original medieval wall.In the highest part of the ancient village, the Rocca stood to defend and guard everything, where a military corps was ready to raise the alarm to the entire town in the event that the Castle was attacked.The remains of the old castle walls are located within the historic center; the most easily identifiable areas are those visible when looking towards Via della Pania from Via Cavour.Beneath the reinforced concrete viaduct, in fact, the remains of one of the towers and of the city walls are visible, mainly made of stone and mortar and subjected to subsequent revaluation interventions which involve a mixture of styles.

4

Church of San Jacopo

San Jacopo Maggiore, the main church of the town, is located in the highest part of the town.The current building has been extended and renovated over various periods. Its façade, made of rows of squared limestone, features a decoration with a motif of hanging arches in Romanesque style.Probably born as a castle church, it was built in the 12th century. The building replaced in its functions the old parish church, dedicated first to San Cassiano and later to San Giovanni Battista which was located outside the village, in fact because of this it was prematurely abandoned and already in 1349 the church of San Jacopo was a parish.The interior of the church has a single nave, and the 19th century restorations and stuccos are evident. It preserves works of considerable value such as the wooden Madonna with child, a work from the first decades of the 14th century. On the left wall there is a beautiful polychrome glazed terracotta attributed to Luca della Robbia.

5

The Old Cemetery

The old cemetery of Gallicano, together with the thousand-year-old parish church of San Jacopo, forms an important monumental complex located in the highest part of the town.The cemetery area occupies a natural saddle on the ridge that separates the valley of the Turrite torrent from that of the Serchio river. From here you can enjoy a view of the valley and of some places of historical interest, such as the ancient thermal plants that exploited the hot water springs and the canal bridge designed by Lorenzo Nottolini.The cemetery was built in the early 19th century, after the famous Edict of Saint Cloud, which prohibited burials inside churches. The first burial dates back to 1808. The area chosen for the cemetery was next to the parish church of San Jacopo and was already owned by the parish: it seems it had been donated by the vicar since 1588, but until then it had been used for agricultural purposes.In the center of the cemetery, a mortuary chapel was built in local stone, with a gabled roof and a pavilion-shaped apse. The burials were arranged around the building, except along the passage that connects the chapel to the entrance. Some tombstones are embedded in the surrounding wall, others directly on the walls of the chapel.The cemetery remained in use until 1929, when the current one was inaugurated. It still preserves many valuable elements, in particular wrought iron artefacts, linked to the presence in the town of a renowned workshop specialising in this material.Curiously, Gallicano shows a counter-tendency to what was foreseen by the Edict of Saint Cloud: while the decree called for sober burials without inscriptions to affirm equality in death, here we moved from simple depositions to a monumental cemetery rich in decorations and elaborate inscriptions, a sign of a deep link between memory, art and local identity.

6

The Rocca of Gallicano

In the highest part of the ancient village of Gallicano, guarding the town, stood the Rocca, also known as “Castellaccio”, where a military garrison was ready to raise the alarm in case of attack.Its construction began in 1485, when the Municipality obtained permission from the Pope to demolish the ancient church of San Giovanni Battista, which was now in danger of collapsing, to reuse its materials in the construction of the fortress. The work was already underway in 1493, as attested by documents relating to the supply of tiles and wooden structures for the bridges.Located on the right bank of the Turrite torrent, the fortress resisted numerous attacks during the wars against the Este family and was restored in 1730 at the behest of the Fortifications Office.Today the Rocca has been the subject of a major architectural restoration and historical enhancement project thanks to the new owner, Professor Fabrizio Riva.He is also responsible for the volume Il Pettorale. La Rocca di Gallicano , available at local newsstands and bookstores, in which he has collected and reconstructed, with rigor and passion, the historical events of the fortress, giving back to the community a precious page of Gallicano memory.

7

Antonino Caponnetto Square

In the heart of Gallicano, Piazza Antonino Caponnetto opens up, an intimate but significant urban space, dedicated to a symbolic figure of Italian justice. Surrounded by historic buildings and close to the main access points to the center of the village, the square is now a meeting place and a collective memory.Antonino Caponnetto was the magistrate who led the famous anti-mafia pool of Palermo, flanked by figures such as Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino. With his tireless commitment in the fight against organized crime, he represented a model of civil courage and moral integrity.Naming this square after him is a heartfelt tribute from the community of Gallicano, which preserves his memory as an example for new generations.

9

The fountains and the chapel of San Rocco

The first news of this chapel dedicated to San Rocco dates back to 1528, when it was dedicated to him as protector against the plague.In 1911, a marble tondo was placed on the altar, as evidenced by a plaque at the base of the work, and it was decided to place, inside it, the bronze sculpture by Guido Cheli from Gallicano, affectionately nicknamed by Pascoli the "Donatello of Gallicano".The oral tradition of the elders evokes the memory of the local people who used to bring their working and domestic animals here for blessing on the occasion of the feast of Sant'Antonio Abate, and of the mass that was celebrated right here, in this chapel.The lateral fountains and their marble stoups were placed here in the first half of the 19th century. Initially they received water from a natural spring, now replaced by the municipal aqueduct. According to a curious tradition, anyone who drinks the water of San Rocco is destined to return to Gallicano.

10

War Memorial

“The monument” as it is simply known by all Gallicano people is dedicated to the fallen of the First World War, created by the sculptor Petroni in 1926 and recently brought to its ancient splendor by a restoration. It was commissioned at the time by the municipal administration to commemorate those who had gloriously served the country. Placed on the top of the tall column there is a statue representing Italy made of marble accompanied by a shield with coat of arms and sword, in the left hand it holds a sphere surmounted by a winged victory. The base has bas-reliefs where you can recognize the Capitoline she-wolf, the Genius Loci and the Gallicano coat of arms.

11

Church of Santa Maria

Santa Maria in Panizza, more simply called Santa Maria, displays on the outside curious stone decorations with geometric motifs of medieval origin, probably inspired by Visigoth, Merovingian and Carolingian artefacts dating back to the 8th century.The current building, with a single nave, is the result of a renovation in 1763. On the eastern side, three types of materials can be seen: near the apse, there are stones typical of medieval buildings, perhaps part of a primitive oratory; to these, a bell tower was added, built with similar stones but of a different material, indicating a later phase. The same type of stone is found on the façade, while in the central part there are smaller stones, probably linked to eighteenth-century interventions or later repairs.Inside, the church has a trussed ceiling and simple decorations. In the attic and in the apse basin there is a statue of the Madonna and Child, flanked by a late seventeenth-century painting depicting the Madonna defeating the devil, with San Frediano and San Bernardino.

12

Della Robbia Ceramics at the Fountains

The fountain in Via Cavour, once the public fountain of Gallicano, has been transformed several times over the centuries. Originally located outside the castle walls, it is depicted in a drawing from 1583 preserved in the Local Historical Archive. The old fountain was demolished towards the end of 1800; the subsequent reconstruction maintained the form we see today.Its history is linked to the name of Della Robbia: a glazed terracotta tondo, depicting the Madonna with Child and attributed to this school, was placed above the two fountains. Over time, this image has been the object of great devotion for the inhabitants of Gallicano. In the early 1900s, when an Italian art gallery offered 20,000 lire to purchase it, the Municipality refused the offer.In 1960, the Municipal Administration decided to move the tondo under the loggia of the Town Hall, a safer place protected from the elements. Between 2001 and 2003, thanks to the contribution of the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, a restoration was carried out. At the end of the anti-seismic improvement works of the municipal building, the restored tondo was relocated under the loggia, where today it is a heritage of all and always visible.

13

Arch of Francesco V d'Este

Work on the construction of this imposing work began in 1853 and was completed in 1856, under the government of the Duke of Este Francesco V, to whom it is dedicated.The original project is attributed to the architect Lorenzo Nottolini from Lucca, known for his civil engineering works in Tuscany. The construction was then continued by the engineer Malaspina from Modena, who followed the construction with great precision. This “canal bridge”, as it is technically called, is built in stone and brick, and is distinguished by its elegant Gothic pointed arches, which give a refined and functional character to the work.In the 19th century, the territory of Gallicano faced a serious problem: despite the proximity of two rivers, the Serchio and the Turrite, during periods of drought the crops suffered from the lack of water, with consequent drops in harvests. The canal bridge was therefore built to transport water and irrigate the land, significantly improving the agricultural productivity of the town.The canal extends for approximately 6 kilometers, irrigating up to 70 hectares of land and still contributing to local agriculture today.This infrastructure is considered a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering of the time and represents an important example of how technology has transformed the rural landscape of Garfagnana.

14

The Baths of Gallicano

In the locality of Ponte alla Villa, once upon a time, mineral springs were noted whose waters dispersed in the Turrite. In this area there were the municipal “Balnei”, known as the “Bagni di Ponte alla Villa”, public tubs available free of charge to the population, which represented a precious place for personal hygiene in an era in which the bathroom at home was still a mirage.Stories circulated around town about the extraordinary benefits of this water, with rumors of miraculous healings and other wonders.In 1903 the waters were analyzed and it was discovered that they had a notable mineralization: the main source had a bitter taste and had a constant temperature of 23°C. Further analyses confirmed the excellent geological and bacteriological qualities, revealing the purity of the water and its effectiveness especially in gastropathies.In addition to the main source, five other points were identified in the area, but the one at Ponte alla Villa remained the most important.In 1916, a hexagonal kiosk was built for bottling mineral water, but the business was short-lived due to economic and logistical difficulties.Today, the Balnei di Ponte alla Villa are an interesting historical heritage, but unfortunately in a state of abandonment, with degraded buildings and vegetation that partially hides the original structures.

15

Church of St. Andrew

The church of Sant'Andrea, built in the 12th century outside the castle and the second circle of walls, stands along the road that leads to the impervious Turrite valley. This road, once crucial, connected the valley floor to the villages of Verni and Trassilico, and passed near the place that once hosted ancient medieval castles, now allies or enemies of Gallicano.We know very little about this church: the analysis of the current building suggests a medieval foundation, but the numerous subsequent renovations have probably modified its original fourteenth-century appearance. It is attested as early as 1260 as one of the 23 churches of the parish of Gallicano.Inside there is a valuable canvas - depicting the Madonna and Child with Saints Andrew and Stephen - dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. A local document suggests that the tradition of celebrating Saint Stephen here is ancient and that the painting, commissioned by the Guidiccioni family of Lucca, was originally larger and was then adapted to its current location.

16

Church of Saint Lucia

The church of Santa Lucia was founded, at an unspecified time, along the route of the ancient Via Clodia Nova, a short distance from the entrance to the castle and the location of the original Pieve dei SS. Giovanni and Cassiano.At the time of the Marquisate of Matilda of Canossa, this small church had also annexed a monastery, subject to the Abbey of Frassinoro, a privilege that the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, in 1164, would reconfirm to Willelmo, then abbot of Frassinoro.The current single-nave structure was probably built around the 12th century, but due to an earthquake in 1721 it was necessary to renovate it and parts of the wall facing were rebuilt. Inside the building there is a polychrome wooden sculpture depicting Saint Lucia from the 16th century.

17

Church of Ponte Guelfino

At a distance of about six hundred metres from the centre of the town of Gallicano, on the left of the Turrita river, adjacent to the ancient Ponte Guelfino, stands on a hard rock, four metres above the water's edge, a public oratory dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and to the Guardian Angel.This Oratory was built at the expense of the Municipality of Gallicano in 1571, very small as it could not hold more than 10 or 12 people.It was a small chapel with a gate in front, where every evening a few pious people gathered to recite the Holy Rosary.

Gallicano Walking Tour
Walking
16 Stops
3h
6km