tuhuskiʔi wasuwaʔa (Bear and Child)
Haku Haku, Bienvenidos, Greetings! These words of welcome represent the various languages of the people who settled in this region. In 1769, the Chumash tribe inhabited this area. There were five nearby villages located near the ocean, with 100-200 people living in each village. They lived in small huts made out of branches and grasses and relied on acorns from oak trees, fish from the ocean and streams, and various berries and fruit that grew locally. The city of Pismo Beach derives its name from a Chumash word, Pizmo, meaning tar. Tar naturally emerges from the soil at Pismo and Avila Beaches, which the Chumash used to waterproof their huts and boats.In 1769, there were no buildings or roads in this location. The creek to the south, San Luis Creek, had steelhead trout swimming upstream, and the area was also home to a dense population of grizzly bears.The Chumash had limited contact with the Old World. Spanish merchant ships traveling from the Philippines to Mexico navigated along the California coast occasionally stopping to make repairs. Additionally, Russian ships in the Gulf of Alaska began moving along the Pacific coast in search of fur-bearing mammals.Find a seat by the fountain or on the green benches near the Mission as we discuss the events in Europe that led to the colonization of California.
The Colonization of Alta California
In 1542 Cabrillo sailed along the California coast, claiming the territory for the Spanish Crown. Due to its remote location and perceived lack of valuable resources, Spain did not pursue colonization at that time. In the early 1700’s, Peter the Great of Russia supported extensive exploration of Alaska leading to outposts along the Pacific coast of North America. With the threat of Russian expansion into California, King Carlos III of Spain in the late 1760s authorized the “Sacred Expedition,” lead by Gaspar de Portola and Father Junipero Serra, aiming to colonize the region through the conversion of the Native Americans to Catholicism and building missions, presidios (military bases), and pueblos (small towns). The goal was to establish three Missions (San Diego, San Carlos in Monterey, and San Buenaventura in between) and to colonize the area within ten years.Led by Serra and Portola, the Expedition traveled from Baja California to San Diego, where Serra founded the first Mission in July 1769. Part of the group attempted to forge a land route to Monterey. By the time they arrived in the San Luis Obispo area they were suffering from starvation. Hunting for grizzly bears saved the group, leading the Spanish to refer to this area as “La Cañada de Los Osos” (the Valley of the Bears). In 1770, Serra founded Mission San Carlos in Monterey, which became his headquarters. Additional missionaries arrived, allowing the founding of Mission San Antonio and Mission San Gabriel in 1771. That same year, Serra, concerned about the mistreatment of the Indigenous People by the soldiers, moved Mission San Carlos away from the adjacent presidio to the Carmel River several miles away.The Missions developed livestock and agriculture to sustain them, however, in the spring of 1772 these efforts were failing at Missions San Carlos and San Antonio, and supply ships could not sail north due to unfavorable winds, leading to potential starvation. Remembering the bears in La Cañada de Los Osos, the military commander in Monterey dispatched soldiers to hunt for bears. They were very successful, sending about 9,000 pounds of bear meat back to the Missions. Impressed with the peaceful nature of the Chumash people in the region and abundant resources, Serra decided to establish a mission in the Valley of the Bears. On his southward journey to San Diego for supplies, Serra founded Mission San Luis Obispo on September 1, 1772. The next day he continued his journey, writing he “left it a newborn.” The responsibility of building the mission fell to Father Cavaller, who remained with five soldiers, two Native craftsmen, some supplies, and a 1st Century BCE Roman textbook on construction.Initially the Mission was located near the confluence of San Luis Creek and Stenner Creek, about a quarter mile southwest from this location. That winter the Mission flooded due to heavy rains, prompting Father Cavaller to move the mission a few hundred yards upstream. There construction commenced by using stones and adobe for walls and tule reeds for roofing. Eventually a chapel and quarters for the priests and soldiers were built. The new Mission suffered several fires, including one in 1776 when Native Americans from an outside tribe shot flaming arrows into the roof, making the Mission unusable. After these fires the priests learned how to make adobe roof tiles, and the innovation spread throughout the California Missions.Now proceed to the side of the bell tower with two bells and the rock wall alongside the Mission.
The Construction of the Mission
The construction of the current Mission commenced in 1777. The dimensions of the church were determined by the tallest trees, which provided beams to support the roof. Initially, a deep trench was excavated around the foundation and filled with rocks, similar to those forming the wall adjacent to the church. These rocks were stacked approximately four feet above ground level, after which thousands of adobe bricks were placed on them, resulting in a wall that was five feet thick at the base, tapering to three feet thick at the roof. The church was completed in 1793. Unfortunately, Father Cavaller did not live to see the fruits of his labor, as he died in 1789, not yet 50 at the time of his death.Notice the crack in the wall between the bell tower and the church. This separates the original Mission from the Campanile (bell tower), initially constructed in 1818 from adobe bricks. During a prosperous period at the Mission, Father Luis Martinez, the missionary-in-charge commissioned new bells from Lima, Peru, and you will see two of these bells later in the tour. The design of the Campanile and vestibule (the covered area outside of the church’s front entrance) is distinctive among California Mission and is arguably the most recognizable architectural feature in San Luis Obispo County. Due to earthquake damage in 1878, the bells were relocated to the side of the church, (which will be observed later during the tour). The present-day Campanile was built in 1934 out of steel reinforced concrete using a design based on historical photographs.Looking down the wall of the church you will see the annex, positioned at a right angle to the main building. It was added in two phases. Observe the crack above the door leading into the annex. The section to the left of the crack was built in 1893 using bricks, while the section to the right was constructed in 1948 using cinderblock, partially funded by a grant from the William Randolph Hearst Foundation’s California Fund.Please enter the church through the large main doors and proceed to the seventh pew to take a seat.If there is an ongoing service, you may enter through the gift shop and resume the tour in the garden at stop 8.
The Early Church
Imagine the Chumash people, who lived in four-foot-tall huts, walking into the Mission. They would likely have been surprised by the size of the church. In contrast, the priests who came from Spain and had seen the large cathedrals in the Old World. Now they were managing a church made from mud bricks.The doors of the Mission are sufficiently tall to allow horses to enter the church, reflecting concerns that the worshippers may have had about the horses being stolen if left outside. The original church had no pews, just a few benches along the walls. The original floor was made from lime cement and had a pinkish hue giving the Mission a unique appearance. The Chumash knew how to add cinnabar to the cement to create the color. Cinnabar, found in the local mountains, is the ore from which mercury is extracted. The lower portion of the walls were colored with ochre and then capped with a cinnabar line. Orche, a naturally occurring iron-based pigment, was also known to the Indigenous people.Look up at the ceiling. The large beams are original, dating back 230 years and were shaped by hand using large axe-like woodworking tools called adzes. No bolts or nails were used in the construction; instead, strips of rawhide were employed to hold the wood together, shrinking around the wood as it dried. Additionally, wooden planks adorned with stars are present in the ceiling, originally painted by the Chumash, possibly to create an outdoor ambiance.
The Mission from the 1820s to 1860s
In 1821, Mexico gained independence from Spain. The new government was concerned about the Missions' loyalty to the Spanish Crown, so they granted lands from the Missions to prominent Mexican born settlers and a few Americans and Europeans who became Mexican citizens. The priests were also instructed to release the Native American converts living at the Mission, many of whom ended up working for the new landlords for little or no pay. Eventually, the Mission was sold to three partners in 1845, for $510.
From the 1870s to Today
Following the decline of ranching, dairy operations emerged on the old Mission’s lands. Dairy workers from the Azores and Swiss-Italian regions emigrated to San Luis Obispo, many of whom were Catholic, thus contributing additional funds towards the repair of the deteriorating Mission. In 1878, efforts commenced to clad the church with clapboard to protect the crumbling adobe walls and creation of a belfry to replace the damaged bell tower, giving the church a “New England” appearance. Emigration also necessitated the expansion of the church, leading to the addition of the first portion of the annex in 1893, constructed out of brick.In the early morning of March 27, 1920, a lamplighter discovered a fire in the church. The fire, most likely caused by faulty electrical wiring, started near the altar and burned through the roof. The fire was swiftly extinguished, saving the statues, paintings, and the altar, however, the roof remained open to the sky. That same day, the mayor launched a fund drive to raise $70,000 towards repairing the Mission. Look up at the beams over the altar and you will notice the different painting styles and smooth texture of the beams, which contrast with the original beams in the rest of the church.Architectural assessments indicated that the Mission required significant renovations as the clapboard did not sufficiently protect the adobe walls. To raise more funds for the Mission, an annual festival, called Fiesta de las Flores, was started in 1925. Father John Harnett took on the challenge to improve the Mission and using newspapers, radio, and magazines, he made Mission San Luis Obispo and the city a tourist destination. He convinced the local businesses that the Mission represented a financially important resource to the city. Eventually enough funds were raised to remove the clapboard, new adobe bricks were made to repair the crumbling walls, the columned porch was restored, and a new bell tower was constructed.Harnett died in 1939 and with the outbreak of World War II restoration was put on hold. In 1947 work began again. As the town expanded, the church added the second portion of the annex and installed today’s concrete floor poured over pipes providing heat. Inscriptions were placed in the floor in front of the altar where the remains of three Fathers were removed: Father Cavaller (the first pastor), Father Rodriguez, and Father Taboada.On the wall behind the figure of Jesus nailed to a cross, the painted wood achieves an artistic effect of marble appearance; Native Americans would have used turkey feather brushes to achieve this effect, a technique which was recreated in the 1940s. The vine alongside the wall, added in 2000, was created by artist Eric Krever and includes unique flowers and birds native to California. Additionally, the arch between the altar and annex and the surrounding walls feature symbols of the Catholic Church, scallop shells representing both the national symbol of Spain and the pilgrim spirit of the Catholic Church, and olive branches symbolizing peace.
San Luis Obispo de Tolosa
To your left on the wall, you will see a statue of Saint Louis, the Bishop of Toulouse, France, who has a fascinating history. Born in 1274 to King Charles II of Naples, Italy, Charles was captured by King Peter III of Aragon in 1284. To secure Charles's release, his three sons were sent to Catalonia. As the second son, Louis became next in line to inherit the crown of Naples after his elder brother’s death. During his captivity, Louis received an education from Franciscan friars and was profoundly influenced by them. Upon his release, Louis approached the Pope, renounced his claim to the throne, and embraced the Franciscan vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. The Pope assigned him to Toulouse, France, where he ministered to the poor and eventually became Bishop. Tragically, his life was cut short when he passed away at the age of twenty-three. For this reason, he is often called the “Boy Bishop” and the Mission named after him is sometimes called the “Prince of the Missions.” The statue before you is primarily composed of wood, carved in Mexico perhaps as far back as the 17th century, covered with plaster of Paris and then painted and gilded.Please proceed to the back of the annex, where you will find a painting of Saint Louis commissioned by Father Serra on the right wall. Note the crown and scepter placed on the floor, symbolizing Louis's rejection of his royal inheritance. It is said that Serra offered this painting to Father Cavaller for 18 pesos during the building of the Mission. He refused, perhaps wanting to save money for the purchase of construction supplies or farm implements, so Serra brought the painting to his headquarters at Mission San Carlos.Return to the altar and exit through the side door of the main church. Turn left and walk towards the stairwell and exposed brickwork.
Adobe Walls
Observe the exposed adobe walls. The adobe bricks measure approximately 21 inches in length and are separated by a one-inch layer of adobe mortar. Thousands of these blocks were used to construct the Mission. The blocks were made by mixing clay dirt, straw, grasses, water, and animal manure. This mixture was placed in wooden forms and dried for a month before use. The roof tiles are manufactured in a similar way, baked in an oven prior to use.The wood protruding from the wall are all that remain of the wooden belfry erected in the late 1800s after the original adobe bell tower in the front of the church was torn down. The stairs provide access to the current bell tower.Proceed towards the benches and view the "Youth Center" to your right across the parking lot. Originally known as the Padres Kitchen, this structure was built around 1777 and may be the oldest structure still standing in California.Finally, sit on one of the benches and observe the gardens.
Conversion of California
The Sacred Expedition was designed to convert the Indigenous peoples to Catholicism so Spain could establish settlements in Alta California without having to send more Spanish citizens to the new world. The Franciscan missionaries believed they were helping the souls of the Indigenous people by using pictures, music, examples, and dialogue for conversion. Forced conversion was not permitted. Once baptized, the new converts or neophytes were provided with housing, clothing, food, and taught religion and skills needed by the Spanish. They were expected to replace their traditions with European ones. Although the neophytes could visit their families, adherence to the Mission way of life was expected. Desertion and the continued practice of traditional customs ran the risk of corporal punishment. At its peak the Mission had close to a thousand neophyte residents.The Spanish introduced various new elements to California. Each Mission was supplied with seeds from around the world including fruits, vegetables, and grains, along with new breeds of livestock such as cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs, which contributed significantly to California’s current agricultural success. The Spanish also brought diseases such as syphilis and smallpox, which spread amongst the neophytes, reducing their numbers at the Missions.
El Camino Real
While enjoying the garden view, look at the building behind you. This wing, built in 1794, was part of the original Mission. It housed workrooms, soldiers' barracks, and the priests. The priests moved to the Rectory behind the church in 1952. This wing became the location of the Museum and Gift Shop.The plaza beyond this wing was the main route between San Diego and San Francisco, called "El Camino Real" or The Royal Highway. Travelers stopped at the Mission for rest, food, and fresh horses. In the 1850s, this area was known as "El Barrio del Tigre" or Tiger Town, where cattle trade profits and scarce law enforcement attracted outlaws. In 1858, locals used part of the building for a jail and executed several outlaws on the old Mission grounds.Rail service began in 1878 between Los Angeles and San Francisco, but El Camino Real remained a key route until the freeway was built in the 1960s. Monterey Street, the original El Camino Real, used to run right in front of the Mission, and was converted into a pedestrian plaza in the 1970s, now popular for celebrations and concerts.Along Highway 101, the current El Camino Real, mission bells are visible every few miles. The first bells were placed at the Missions by the Native Daughters of the Golden West. One of the original bells, placed in 1909, is at Chorro and Monterey Streets, near our starting point. The bells you see on the freeway today have been commissioned by the California legislature.Now move to the large pot on its side.
The Whaler's Pot
Iron was scarce in Mission-era California, indicating that this large pot likely originated from a whaling ship that stopped to trade with the Mission. The pot features a smooth side and a triangular attachment point, allowing it to be securely fastened to the ship's deck. The missionaries would have utilized a pot like this for boiling tallow, or animal fats, to make soaps and candles.During the early 1800s, Mission San Luis Obispo functioned as a highly successful trading post. It managed over 400,000 acres of land and had more than 8,000 head of cattle, along with substantial quantities of corn, wheat, barley, and wine. Cowhides were globally sought after due to their utility in clothing, furniture, and drive belts during the early industrial revolution, and were known as "California Banknotes" in the largely cashless economy. Under the leadership of Father Luis Martinez, the Mission engaged in extensive trade with ships along the California coast. Historical accounts suggest that upon his exile in 1830 for allegedly for smuggling, but more likely because of his outspoken loyalty to Spain, Father Martinez departed with $100,000 worth of gold and treasure. Local folklore references a gold mine, named San Jose, near the current Mission site.Please proceed to the display area where the Mission bells are showcased.
The Mission Bells
You are now observing the bells that hung in the bell tower until 2005. The history of the Mission bells is a topic of considerable interest among local historians. When the Mission opened in 1793 there was at least one bell present. In 1818 Father Martinez commissioned several more bells from the Manuel Vargas factory in Lima, Peru, which arrived in 1820.According to local historian Dr. Dan Krieger, the story of the bells takes an interesting turn. In the 1880s, Mission San Miguel (located forty miles north) discovered the painting of Saint Louis, which now hangs in the annex, in a storeroom. Father Mut, the priest at Mission San Miguel needed a new bell for the Mission. He offered the painting to Father Rousell at Mission San Luis Obispo in exchange for assistance in acquiring a new bell. A photograph from the 1880s shows the new large Mission San Miguel bell in front of a foundry in San Francisco, with a Manuel Vargas bell dated 1818 on one side and a bell resembling the one currently hanging here, dated 1768. The local newspaper at the time reported the bells from Mission San Luis Obispo were sent to San Francisco to be melted down for silver.For many years afterwards, only three bells remained in the tower, with pictures of two others displayed on the side. Upon close inspection, you will notice cracks in the bells; hence, in 2005, the old bells were replaced with new bells cast in Holland. These bells are still manually rung by bell ringers, and you can view the following video to see how this process is conducted.This concludes your tour of Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa. We hope you found the tour informative. We welcome any feedback you may have. Additionally, donations to the Mission Docents are appreciated as they enable us to continue exploring the history of the Mission, develop new visitor programs, and restore historical artifacts. Thank you very much.If you were unable to enter the church after Stop 3, you can go back and resume the tour at Stop 4 if the service is over.
