Introduction
Begin: Fontaine Saint-MichelEnd: Monnaie de ParisTime: At least two hoursOn this walk, you will get a taste of the livelyQuartier latin (Latin Quarter), so named because Latin was the lingua franca of students in the earliest days of the Sorbonne (founded in 1257 CE) and for centuries thereafter. However, who can study when there are so many tempting distractions? Forget the classrooms of the Sorbonne and remember the Horatian imperative—written in Latin no less!—to mix dulce et utile (the sweet and the useful). In other words, why not hone your debate skills at a café, practice art appreciation at a gallery, and browse the bouquinistes (used-book sellers) along the Seine for inspiring literature?
#1 The Fontaine Saint-Michel
Begin in front of the Fontaine Saint-MichelThe Fontaine Saint-Michel is an Italian-inspired construction that features a large bronze statue of Saint Michel slaying a dragon. In the mid-nineteenth century, during Haussmann’s transformations of the Parisian cityscape, the fountain was added as a focal point for an uneven intersection. Today, the fountain is a favorite spot for street performers.
#2 The Théâtre de la Huchette
If you back up toward the top of place Saint-Michel and face the fountain, you will find rue de la Huchette just across the street on your left. Walk along to 23 rue de la Huchette on your right and find a small theatre painted white with black letters that stand out: théâtre de la Huchette.One of many small experimental theatres that popped up in the years following World War II, the théâtre dela Huchette had modest success until suddenly, in 1957, it staged the hit of a lifetime: Eugène Ionesco’s absurdist La Cantatrice Chauve (The Bald Soprano). Although the play had its debut in 1950 at a different theatre (where it had a twenty-five show run), La Huchette’s 1957 double billing of La Cantatrice Chauve and Ionesco’s La Leçon was a bigger hit than anyone could have imagined—bigger than Cats! or Les Misérables. So big that the play is still running more than fifty years later (19,000 shows and counting!).
#3 Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche
As you continue down rue la Huchette, try to ignore the aggressive sales pitches coming from the touristy restaurants that surround you. Ignore them as best you can, but keep an eye on your left for rue du Chat-qui-Pêche (fishing cat), the narrowest street in Paris.Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche has been around since 1540 CE, at which time it led directly down to the edge of the Seine. The historical marker claims that the name of the street comes from a shop sign dating to the thirteenth century, but no one knows for certain.
#4 L’église Saint-Séverin
Turn right on rue du Petit Pont and look for l’église Saint-Séverin on the right.The charming gothic église Saint-Séverin was built in the eleventh century and rebuilt in 1495. Enter the church to admire its stunning architecture and stained glass. Look for the pillar said to be inspired by a palm tree. Also worthy of appreciation is the fourteenth-century glass art in the first three bays. The other windows feature modern, stained glass inspired by the seven sacraments. On a sunny day, their abstract patterns shower colored light onto the church floor. When I last went inside, the play of light was enhanced with music from a youth orchestra practicing for a Mozart concert. If you enjoy classical music, look for posters near the church entrance announcing recitals or concerts that might be worth attending.
#5 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts: hôtels particuliers
After you exit the church, take a left on rue Saint-Séverin back toward the Fontaine Saint-Michel. Keep going straight until you cross the street just behind the fountain, where you will find place Saint-André-des-Arts. Cross rue Danton to enter rue Saint-André-des-Arts.Beautiful as it is from the exterior, the narrow rue Saint-André-des-Arts hides an even better treasure in the form of hôtels particuliers—old residences dating from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The building facades mask sumptuous inner courtyards that protect the privileged residents from curious eyes and buffer them from the noise of the outside world. Unless you happen to be friends with one of the residents, don’t expect an inside view. Instead, choose some favorite exterior details: the arch on Number 47, the cherub doorknocker outside Number 49, etc.
#6 Cour du Commerce Saint-André
To your left, around 59 rue Saint-André-des-Arts, you may take a detour up a passageway on Cour du Commerce Saint-André.Window shop on the Cour du Commerce Saint-André as people have done for centuries and be sure to look for the famous Le Procope (Café Procope), the oldest café in Paris. Founded in 1686, the café was a favorite after-theatre hangout for actors and theatregoers. During the eighteenth century, it became a breeding ground for revolutionary thought. Fueled by caffeine, philosophes (philosophers) such as Diderot, Rousseau, and Voltaire shared ideas at the Procope that would change Europe. During the French Revolution, Marat and Danton were regulars at the Procope. Meanwhile, just a stone’s throw away, Dr. Guillotin is said to have tested his eponymous machine on some unwitting live sheep.
#7 Cosi
At the end of the passageway, you will see boulevard Saint-Germain. Rather than exit, go back down the passageway and take a left on rue Saint-André-des-Arts (the street name changes to rue de Buci). If you want a meal, turn right on rue de Seine, and stop at the sixth storefront on your left (Cosi) for a great sandwich.Not the most “French” of restaurants, Cosi, part of an international chain was at least inspired by Parisian café culture. Franchise fare or not, the ingredients here make this sandwich shop superior to any version you might find in the US. If you’re a carnivore, I suggest you compose a sandwich of roast beef slathered with bleu d’Auvergne cheese and roasted caramelized onions. Vegetarians will love the roasted veggies and fresh greens with or without cheese. Dine-in upstairs (a good chance to use the bathroom) or take-out—but remember that eating while walking is a real faux pas in France.
#8 Rue de Seine
Now it’s time for some art appreciation. Continue on rue de Seine for a look at the small galleries on both sides of the street.The style of art changes with each store. Some galleries carry original works by well-known artists such as Matisse, Picasso, or Cocteau, while others specialize in the works of living up-and-comers. I recommend window-shopping only, unless you are serious about making a purchase.
#9 École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts
As you stroll up rue de Seine, look left on rue des Beaux-Arts for a view of the wrought-iron gates of the École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts, the most prestigious fine arts school in France.The École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts dates to the mid-seventeenth century, when the classicist mania for rules and organization led to the founding of numerous academies; these ranged from the French language to the sciences to the arts. The Académie des Beaux-Arts (now the École nationale supérieuredes Beaux-Arts) was intent on imitating and surpassing models from Greek and Roman art. The names of former students read like a pantheon of great artists: Renoir, Monet, Géricault, Delacroix, and so on. Nevertheless, the school doesn’t want you wandering its hallowed halls, and besides, we’re playing hooky today.
#10 Institut de France
Continue on rue de Seine under the archway (rather than turn left at the statue of Voltaire), and you will come out to the nice breeze of the Seine or the chilly wind of the Seine, depending on the season. Try to walk gracefully (i.e., without tripping) across the cobblestones. If you succeed, you are practically a true Parisian.Look at the Institut de France (on quai de conti)—another monument to the seventeenth-century passion for academies. Since 1635, the Académie française (French Academy) has intimidated foreigner and French alike with its careful policing of the French language. The forty members of the French Academy are called “immortals.” The other members elect them for life, but they may be dismissed for misconduct. (Who knows what kind of misconduct—improper conjugation of the imperfect subjunctive? a foolhardy lapse into English? eating lunch at McDonald’s?) Also housed in the Institut de France are four other académies: l’Académie des inscriptions et belles-lettres, l’Académie des sciences, l’Académie des beaux-arts, and l’Académie des sciences morales et politiques.
#11 The pont des Arts
Cross le quai de Conti and you will be facing the pont des Arts.The pont des Arts is a favorite hangout for starving artists and neo-bohemians. During the summer, the bridge often hosts outdoor exhibits of contemporary sculpture.
#12 Quai de Conti
Rather than cross the bridge to the Louvre, turn right on the quai de Conti and browse the bouquinistes along the Seine.If weather permits, the rows of six-foot-long green boxes perched atop the stone walls above the Seine and along the quai de Conti are open to entice tourists and bargain-hunting bibliophiles with their goods. Since the end of the nineteenth century, Paris has regulated the use of the space by issuing a limited number of permits (around 250), but the tradition dates to hundreds of years earlier. Today the tourist in you might find postcards, key chains, and magnets, while your inner collector might hunt for vintage magazines, books, menus, and engravings. Browsing is encouraged, but don’t forget to say Bonjour Madame (or Monsieur) and treat the goods with respect.
#13 The Monnaie de Paris
On the right side of the street, you will notice the grand neoclassical facade of the Monnaie de Paris (Paris Mint).The Monnaie de Paris includes a museum that may be worth a separate visit, but for now, you will stay outside.
#14 Pont Neuf
Look for the stairs leading down to the banks of the Seine and walk along the water for a short while. You will soon walk under the famous pont Neuf (literally, new bridge).This “new bridge,” the pont Neuf, completed under the rule of Henri IV in 1606, is in fact the oldest bridge in Paris. The statue of Henri IV on the bridge, completed in 1614, was melted down during the French Revolution to make cannons. This version was recast in 1818 ostensibly by melting down two statues of Napoleon (thus proving that Henri IV was twice the man!). The bridge links the left and right banks of the Seine and crosses the Île de la Cité in the middle.
The End
Once you cross under the bridge, take the stairs back up for a look at more of the bouquinistes—some of the best stands are those near Notre Dame. Soon, you will have walked full circle to the end of our walk, back to place Saint-Michel and the Saint-Michel métro station.After the WalkIf the weather is nice, you may want to play at being a flâneur along the Seine. You could cross the pont Neuf to the other side of the Seine, or stay in the Latin Quarter. If you have never been down the Seine by boat, try the Vedettes pont-Neuf boat tours, which leave regularly from the pont Neuf on this side of the Île de la Cité—for a small fee. The ride lasts about an hour.
