Introduction
Begin: Métro Saint-PaulEnd: Métro Chemin Vert Time: Two to four hours, depending on the time spent in the museumsMarais Walk 2 focuses on le quartier Juif (Jewish Quarter), different historical buildings, and two other museums: the musée Cognacq-Jay and the musée Picasso. I recommend that you do this walk first. At the end of the walk, you will see la bibliothèque historique de la Ville de Paris (Historical Library of Paris), and if you wish to join to gain entrance—an optional activity—you will need to bring an ID photo, show an ID card, and fill out a form to become a member.
#1 Synagogue Agoudas Hakehilos
You will begin this walk at métro Saint-Paul, the same station where you ended Marais Walk 1. Exit the métro, cross rue de Rivoli, and make your way to rue Pavée (slightly to your left). Don’t forget to consult your map so you don’t head down a wrong street. Your first destination is the center of the Pletzel, a Yiddish name for le quartier juif in Paris. Walk to Number 10 rue Pavée (on your right)—the Jewish synagogue.An association of nine Jewish communities called upon Hector Guimard, whose American wife was Jewish, to be the architect for their synagogue Agoudas Hakehilos on rue Pavée. The building was inaugurated in 1914. Inspired by the curving lines of the art nouveau style, Guimard designed the facade to look like an open Torah scroll. Note the Star of David above the central door and the Tablets of the Law at the top of the building in the middle. Unfortunately, the synagogue is not open to visitors. Guimard also designed Castel Béranger and many entrances to the Paris métro, also in the art nouveau style. (See Walks 2 and 13 to learn more about the works of Hector Guimard.)
#2 Rue des Rosiers
As you continue up rue Pavée, turn left on the next street, rue des Rosiers (rosebushes) and continue down rue des Rosiers.Rue des Rosiers, originally only a path along the Auguste Philippe wall (See Walk 7), has had the same name since 1233 CE. The path got its name from the rosebushes that grew along the wall. Rue des Rosiers is the center of the Jewish Quarter—in 1886, Jews owned two-thirds of the businesses along the street, and in 1994, all but ten businesses were Jewish. Recently, however, many of the storefronts have been purchased and turned into glitzy shops—hardly the same ambiance.As you walk down rue des Rosiers, notice the little restaurants where you may buy falafel (a wonderful middle-eastern food made from chickpeas). There are a couple of nice pastry shops—la boutique Jaune de Sacha Finkelsztajn (Finkelstein's Bakery), for example. If you don’t stop now, come back another time for a falafel sandwich, but take note that they are closed on Monday and Tuesday.
#3 École élémentaire des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais
Now, turn right onto rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais. On the right in this short street, across from the old Blancs Manteaux market building, you will find a Jewish elementary school, École élémentaire des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais.At the Jewish elementary school, École élémentaire des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, read the memorial plaques placed after the events of World War II. (The plaques are on the building near the main entrance.) Before and since World War II, this area has been the site of several anti-Semitic manifestations—some have been quite violent, like the 1982 terrorist attack on Jo Goldenberg’s deli, when seven people were shot.
#4 Hôtel de Soubise
The Hôtel de Soubise, one of the most lavish mansions in Paris, is your next destination. (Consult the map.) Continue on rue des Hospitalieres Saint-Gervais to rue des Francs Bourgeois. Turn right on rue des Francs Bourgeois and continue down this street to number 60, the entrance of the Hôtel de Soubise; above the entrance, a sign reads "Archives Nacionale."Since 1808, the Hôtel de Soubise has been the home of the Archives Nacionale. In 1705, François de Rohan, the prince of Soubise, commissioned construction of this impressive palace. In the courtyard, admire the twenty-four pairs of Corinthian columns; classical in style, these slender, fluted columns have a leaf design at the capital. Moreover, on the ground floor, if you go inside the palace you will find some of the best examples of the Rococo style in Paris. Profuse and delicate ornamentation that is light and graceful characterizes this style.
#5 Musée Cognacq-Jay
Your next stop is the musée Cognacq-Jay, located in the Hôtel de Donon (built in the late 1500s). As you exit the Hôtel de Soubise, turn left on rue des Francs Bourgeois and backtrack on this past where you first entered this street and turn left onto rue Elzévir. The entrance to the museum is on the right side of the street at 8 rue Elzévir.The Musée Cognacq-Jay is a small museum, and the visit should take less than an hour; nevertheless, this museum is well worth a visit. It is often on many students’ lists of favorites at the end of their stay in Paris. The museum focuses on eighteenth-century paintings, furniture, and objets d’art. Items in the exhibit were collected by Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay, the founders of the famous Samaritaine department store—a landmark in Paris since the early 1900s. (The Samaritaine overlooks the pont Neuf.) Their collection moved to Hôtel de Donon in 1991. In the museum, you will see paintings by François Boucher, Jean-Baptiste Chardin, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Jean-Baptiste Greuze, Maurice Quentin de Latour, Peter Paul Rubens, and Jean-Antoine Watteau. Have a nice visit!
#6 The Hôtel Salé
Your final destination on this walk is the Hôtel Salé, which houses the musée Picasso. As you come out of the musée Cognacq-Jay, turn right. At the end of rue Elzévir, turn left and go across place Thorigny, then turn right onto rue de Thorigny and continue to 5 rue de Thorigny.The Hôtel Salé was built in 1659 for Aubert de Fontenay, the collector of the salt tax (salé means salty). Renovated in the 1980s, the hôtel houses the musée Picasso, a wonderful collection of Picasso’s art. Pablo Picasso, a Spaniard, settled in France at age twenty-three and pursued a long and fruitful career in Paris from 1936 to 1955. At his death in 1973, his heirs decided to donate a great many of Picasso’s works to France rather than pay Pablo’s estate taxes. This valuable “gift”—more than 300 paintings, more than 3,000 drawings and engravings, includes many collages and manuscripts. Inside the museum, you will find guidebooks and restrooms. The hôtel itself is interesting—especially the escalier d’honneur (the staircase of honor)—and the museum allows you to see a wonderfully complete selection of Picasso’s work.
The End
The closest métro station for your ride home is Saint-Paul, where you started this walk. (You might consider going back to rue des Rosiers for a falafel sandwich instead of going straight home.) To get to the métro, turn right as you leave the museum and return to place de Thorigny, turn left, and walk straight down rue du parc Royal and turn right down rue de Sévigné. At the far end of the street, you will see l'Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis. The métro entrance is to the right of the church.After the WalkI suggest you explore the Marais on your own. Even with the two walks, you’re only scratching the surface of this interesting area. Visit the musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme (Jewish Museum) at 71 rue du Temple—métro Rambuteau. There are a number of well-written guides in English and French. The bookstore at the musée Carnavalet is a good source for French guidebooks, and the W.H. Smith Bookstore on rue de Rivoli has a good selection of guides in English.
