Introduction
Since this walk is extensive, you may want to break it in half—I suggest at Covent Garden—and dedicate two days to the walk.This walk is designed to move you through the next area to be settled in the history of London—the area between the City and Westminster. The walk ties together many of the more popular tourist centers such as Covent Garden, Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square, and Piccadilly Circus, and introduces you to far more than you will have time to examine in detail during one walk. Consequently, I recommend you walk without stopping to see the sights, in order to see how the entertainment center of London fits together, and then, on another day, come back to each of the areas to enjoy them more closely. By this time you may already have visited many of these sites—you would be a very unusual tourist if you haven’t. But have you realized how close Leicester Square and Trafalgar are together, for example, or how to get to Leicester Square from Covent Garden? Such insights are a large part of the purpose of this walk. This land was owned primarily by the bishops and other clerics associated with the church in Westminster. Some of it was occupied by homes for the bishops, but much of it was pasture land used for grazing sheep, and much of it was worked by the monks and nuns in conjunction with abbey life. As noted in previous walks, the Tudor age was ushered in with London largely divided between the City (with the Inns of Court on its west extremity) and the property of the crown and church around Westminster Palace and the Abbey. As a consequence of the dissolution of the monasteries during Henry VIII’s reign, this property came into the possession of the monarchy, and much of it was subsequently given to courtiers or put on the market to be sold. Ten of the monastic chapels in this area survived as parish churches. Others were used for such things as storage for wine, herrings, or in one case, for the king’s tents; one was used for stone to repair the Tower of London, and at least one was acquired by a guild—the leather sellers obtained the dormitory of one of the former nunneries. Former bishops’ palaces gave way to a Tudor version of millionaire’s row, built along the Thames—few of which survive to the present. However, vestiges of some are still to be found in some of the grand buildings along the Thames. During the 1600s and 1700s, this area, like much of London, was developed under the inspiration of famous London architects such as Inigo Jones and Christopher Wren. Wren’s disciple, James Gibbs, created St. Martin’s-in-the-Field, beginning what developed during the early 1800s into Trafalgar Square. During the seventeenth century, Soho and Leicester Square became the centers of high society, only to begin a descent into squalor at the end of the following century, as the rich moved out and westward into Mayfair. Soho, especially, became the gathering place for immigrants—first the French Protestants fleeing from Louis XIV, and then Italians, Irish, and Jews. Later, in the twentieth century, Chinese immigrants joined them.After Henry VIII and the dissolution, the area comprising Covent Garden came on the market and was purchased by the Earl of Bedford. The initial piazza, laid out by Inigo Jones in the 1630s, is London’s oldest organized square. It soon became one of London’s major aristocratic developments. However, with the extension of the fruit and vegetable market set up in the Earl’s backyard, and the later advent of theatres and coffeehouses, the social status of the area began to decline rapidly, until it became known as the “great square of Venus”—complete with all of the signs of low life, including Turkish baths that doubled as brothels into which prostitutes standing at the windows attempted to lure theatre-goers “in the most impudent manner.” About 140 years after the creation of the original plaza, a major remodeling took place as new market buildings were added in 1774. In addition to fruits and vegetables, herbs, lavender, and hedgehogs (used as pets for beetle control) were added to the products available in the growing market. Another half-century passed and another remodeling ensued. By 1820, Covent Garden had become the largest fruit and vegetable market in London, necessitating the construction of the Central Market Building in 1831.In 1872, the Flower Market building, which now houses the London Transport Museum, was added to the southeast corner of the plaza. This was followed by a group of smaller buildings constructed from time to time until the erection of Jubilee Hall in 1904. In 1974, after three-hundred years of trading in the market, the fruit, vegetable, and flower wholesalers were relocated to Nine Elms in southern London. As with so many areas in modern London, the origins of much of this area, such as Piccadilly Circus and Trafalgar Square, can be traced back to the 1800s. The Victoria Embankment, where we begin the walk, is a good example. Built on the north side of the Thames, this embankment was created in 1870 to serve several functions, including alleviating the congestion on the roads of London and preventing flooding. In addition, London’s main sewer also flows beneath the embankment and empties down the valley. After the installation of water closets in the 1820s, much of this sewage began flowing directly into the Thames, causing it to become hopelessly polluted and foul (earning it the name “Capital of Cholera”). Two epidemics of cholera and typhoid followed in 1832 and 1848, and the river became so adulterated that sheets soaked in chloride of lime were hung in the windows of Parliament during 1858 (the “Year of the Big Stink”) in an attempt to keep down the stench. The District Line runs immediately beneath the embankment as well. Today, this Victorian development provides a beautiful walkway along the Thames.
#1 Start: Temple Tube Station
Start this walk at Temple tube station, where we ended the Legal Walk. As you come out of the tube station, make your way to the Thames by crossing the road (toward Westminster).Look for a plaque on the edge of the Victoria Embankment with an outline of the skyline of the buildings on the other side of the Thames. Look at the buildings across the river (and a little to your left). Note specifically the one that looks like a giant game of tic-tac-toe, with two circles and one X. This is the famous Oxo Tower, built in 1928 by the company of the same name (of beef bouillon fame). To avoid a recently passed law against illuminated signs, they designed their logo right into the architecture of the building. The building with all the gold embellishments on it is the Seacontainers House, which was initially intended as a hotel when it was built in 1970 but was later turned into office space. You should recognize some of the other structures from your previous walk on the south bank. Now turn around and look up the hill behind you. The large building to your right is Somerset House (we will visit it later in this walk).
#2 Lancaster Place
Continue your walk along the Thames going toward Westminster. When you come to Lancaster Place, you may want to walk onto Waterloo Bridge. If you do, when you have finished walking on the bridge, come back to where Waterloo Bridge abuts the embankment, returning to the side of the street nearest to the Thames.Waterloo Bridge has one of the best views of St. Paul’s and Parliament in London. When you are back from a walk onto the bridge and are by the embankment, look under Waterloo Bridge and examine some of the engineering that goes into the make-up of bridges. You have crossed over several bridges; this is your chance to go under one.
#3 Cleopatra's Needle
Go under the bridge and walk along the Thames with the river on your left until you come to the 60 foot high Cleopatra’s Needle.Cleopatra's Needle, a massive obelisk (one of a pair—the other one is in Central Park in New York City) was recovered from the sands of Alexandria in the early 1800s and sent as a gift to Britain by Mohammed Ali (not the boxer), one of the most important figures involved in bringing Egypt into dialogue with the Western world. Take time to read the information on the base. The obelisk goes back two centuries before the advent of Ramses the Great and is quite majestic in its simplicity. Note that it is from the city of On (Heliopolis). Since Joseph of biblical fame married the daughter of a priest of On, it is likely that he was familiar with On, but the obelisk is of a later date. One legend suggests that when Mary and Joseph fled into Egypt with the baby Jesus, On was where they sought refuge. If this is so, they would have seen the obelisk in its original setting.If you look across the river at the South Bank Centre, which you visited during the Southwark walk, you can see an electronic billboard advertising current performances in the complex, as well as giving the time and temperature. It serves a particularly useful function for those who work or walk on this side of the Thames.
#4 Savoy Street to Victoria Embankment Gardens
Turn around and backtrack to the bridge. Cross the street and turn left so that the Thames is once again on your left, continuing along the embankment. After you pass Savoy Street, you will come to Victoria Embankment Gardens on your right. Enter and move through the gardens, walking with the Thames on your left.Victoria Embankment Gardens are yet another of London’s wonderful surprises. During the lunch hour in the summer, bands play here, food is sold, and it becomes one of the great little parks tucked away from the sight of daily traffic.The Savoy, which we will visit later in the walk, is to your right, above the east entrance to the park. This is the theatre where Gilbert and Sullivan made their reputation. Therefore, it is fitting that the statue of Arthur Sullivan is placed here (on your left). William S. Gilbert only got a plaque—it’s farther down the embankment, on the wall across the road from the Embankment tube stop. So great was Sullivan’s impact on Victorian England that when he died the Times recorded, “The death of Sir Arthur Sullivan . . . may be said without hyperbole, to have plunged the whole of the Empire in gloom.” The statue is a classic Victorian piece, bearing the inscription: “Is life a boon/If so it myst befal/That death, when e’re he call/ Must call too soon.” Don’t miss the guitar, the score, and the mask of Pan at the base of the statue.Also in the park is the statue of a man who has affected your life more than you know: Robert Raikes, the founder of the Sunday Schools in England, which later made their way to the USA and eventually to Utah. There is also a tribute in the park (up against the buildings to your right) to Michael Faraday, whose work with electricity has also had a personal impact on your life. I also like the statue from Australia, dedicated to the Imperial Camel Corps, who saw action in Egypt, Sinai, and Palestine during World War I. Just as you leave the park, note the statue of Robert Burns (to your right), the Scottish poet who was one of President David O. McKay’s favorite writers. Of special historic interest is the York water gate (not the Nixon Watergate of Washington, D.C.), which shows how far inland the Thames came in 1626. Note also the stairs leading down to the river that were part of the original water gate.
#5 Villiers Street
Upon emerging from the park, go straight out to Villiers Street.Villiers Street takes its name from George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, who acquired York House in 1617—remember the water gate you just viewed. His son George, the last Duke of Buckingham, sold the land for development in the 1670s on the understanding that five streets off the Strand were to be named after him. These became George Court, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Of Alley, and Buckingham Street. Up until the mid-1990s, Villiers was one of the main centers of London’s homeless. Don’t miss the beautiful waterfall in the building to your left as you proceed up this street.
#6 Villiers Street to Charing Cross Railway Station
Make your way up Villiers Street away from the Thames to Charing Cross railway station.You are now only about a block from Trafalgar Square, which is just beyond Charing Cross railway station. The popularity of Charing Cross is suggested by a comment made by Samuel Johnson in the seventeenth century: “The full tide of human existence is at Charing Cross.” In medieval times, this was part of the village of Charing (cierring is Old English for turning, and may have been chosen because nearby the Thames turns from north-south in the Westminster area to east-west here). At the death of Queen Eleanor of Castile in 1291, Edward I had thirteen crosses erected to mark the route of his wife’s funeral cortege from the place of her death to her burial in Westminster Abbey. Charing Cross was the last of the thirteen. However, the original cross was later removed and placed at the entrance of what is now Trafalgar Square (where the equestrian statue of Charles I currently stands). The original cross was destroyed in the late 1600s. The replica in front of Charing Cross Station is a much later substitute, rather than a copy of the original (and any resemblance between it and the original cross is coincidental). The current railway station building, including its malls, etc., was constructed in 1990–91.
#7 The Strand
After inspecting the “cross” in front of the station (and the station itself), turn and make your way to your right along the Strand in the opposite direction that you came along the Thames, so that you finish this part of the walk about where you started, except you are now one street farther inland.Although the Strand (designating land by a sea or a river) is a very old road, it was not until Tudor times that it was paved. The Strand changes into Fleet Street—the other end of which we met in the Legal London walk. In Tudor times the Fleet was still a river, widened to a canal, by which one could go by barge from the Thames as far inland as Holborn.As you make your way along the Strand, Durham House—the palace of the Bishop of Durham—will be on your right; it was one of the first houses built along the Thames. Keep in mind that any structure along this street had a clear view of the Thames. The clock, which you may have noted on the Thames side of the building, is the largest in London—dating to the early 1930s. It is on the Shell Mex House, built in 1931.On your right you will come to the Savoy, entered through Savoy Court. Built on the grounds of the Savoy Palace in 1889, this was one of the pioneers of en suite bathrooms and electric lighting. It is also where the D’Oyly Carte opera made Gilbert and Sullivan a household word in London. This hotel is still one of the most exquisite hotel-theatre complexes in London. If something seems strange to you, it may be because this is the only place in England where people drive on the right side of the road —it took a special act of Parliament to achieve this. (However, this is not where one went “stomping at the Savoy”—that was in Harlem in New York City.) The palace that was here before Tudor times was burned down by the Wat Tyler Rebellion in 1381, a famous peasant revolt—a plaque on the building tells the story. Take time to examine the front of the Savoy, which is one of the finest examples of art deco in London. There are many other elite hotels in the area; note, for example the Strand Palace Hotel across the street.
#8 The Strand to Somerset House and Courtauld
Continue on the Strand until you come to Somerset House, one of the oldest and most famous structures in this area—again on your right. You will see a sign advertising both Somerset House and the Courtauld.Somerset House (the first building) was the home of the Duke of Somerset during the days of Henry VIII and his successors. Elizabeth I lived here for a time as a little girl, and it was also the home of the queens of James I, Charles I, and Charles II. On this site, Oliver Cromwell was crowned by proxy—a wax effigy, which had been used for his standing-in-state before his funeral, was crowned with a royal crown and invested with mitre and scepter. Somerset House now houses the collection of the Courtauld Institute of Fine Art—one of the principal art collections in London. If you are a fan of Impressionist and post-impressionist painting, this gallery is a must! When the Royal Academy of Art was created, it was initially housed in this building, and the holdings of the Courtauld now occupy the space once used for the summer exhibitions of the Academy. For many years, Somerset House was the repository of important public records crucial to genealogical research.There is also a fountain-filled courtyard in the middle of the complex, which provides a cool and refreshing hideaway in the heat of summer and is transformed into an ice rink in the winter—for beginners as well as more seasoned skaters. There are also two other galleries in the complex: the Hermitage and the Gilbert Collection—a collection of miscellaneous gold plate, miniature paintings, etc., in a museum downstairs on the Thames side of the complex. You might want to come back and have lunch on the balcony overlooking the Thames.The left-hand wing of the building on the Strand (as you face the Thames) belongs to King’s College, founded in 1828 by the famous Duke of Wellington, then Prime Minister, to offset the “godless influence” of the University College that had been established two years earlier, sans religious curriculum. King’s College (like BYU) initially put religion at the center of its teachings. It is the second-largest school of the University of London. The principle of the double helix in DNA was discovered at King’s College. One of the more interesting features of the college for tourists is the famous “Roman bath,” probably constructed during Tudor times, worked in red brick, and measuring about thirteen feet in length and six and one-half feet across. It is fed by a spring that spouts about two thousand gallons of water a day, which drains ultimately into the Thames.
#9 Cross the Strand
Cross the Strand and continue right (eastward) along the road.Note the church of St. Mary le Strand opposite King’s College. It is a creation of James Gibbs (Christopher Wren’s pupil who designed St. Martin's in-the-Field), and some feel Mary le Strand to be the high point of Gibbs’ accomplishments. It is now the official church of the Women’s Royal Naval Service.
#10 The Strand to the statue of William Gladstone
Continue along the Strand until you come to the intersection with the statue of William Gladstone.William Gladstone was one of the two most famous nineteenth-century prime ministers—Benjamin Disraeli being the other. By this statue, in front of the church of St. Clement Danes, the official church of the Royal Air Force, is a statue of the Air Chief Marshall of the RAF during World War II, Lord Dowding, who oversaw the Battle of Britain. To the left is Sir Arthur Harris, better known in Britain and elsewhere as “Bomber Harris.” Harris was the originator of saturation bombing in Germany, leading to the death of thousands of German civilians and over 55,000 allied airmen. This was an event never forgiven by the Germans—nor many of the Brits. He was never awarded a peerage, as all other service chiefs were, and his forces were never given a campaign medal. When this statue was installed in 1992, on the anniversary of the bombing of Cologne, it drew mass protests from Brits and Germans alike.
#11 Aldwych Crescent
Turn back to the left at this intersection onto Aldwych Crescent.Aldwych is a perversion of eald wic (the old settlement). On the left is the Australian House and on the right is Aldwych House. As you come around the crescent, move to the right-hand side of the road and note the grandeur of the Bush House, especially the statues near the top—best viewed at night. This is the London home of the British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC). The giant figures, as indicated by the inscription “To the Eternal Friendship of English-speaking Nations,” were to symbolize the friendship between the U.S. and Britain. (Irving T. Bush, who financed the construction of the building, was an American.) West of the Bush Building is the India House. Just a few meters north of here, on Houghton Street, is Mick Jagger’s alma mater, the London School of Economics.The London School of Economics (LSE) was founded largely through the efforts of the Fabian socialists in the latter part of the nineteenth century. Dedicated to a more serious academic and technical approach to the study of economics, LSE was very much in the mold of American universities emerging at the same time, such as MIT, Johns Hopkins, Chicago, etc. Shunning the traditional “gentlemanly education,” typical of Oxford and Cambridge (and the Ivy League in the U.S.), LSE followed the tradition of Central Europe, emphasizing academic research. They also introduced departments hitherto unheard of such as anthropology and sociology, as well as divided economics into “pure economics” and “economic history.” In the 1920s and 30s, they pioneered professional associations and journals unique to the study of economics. Since its inception, it has shed its Fabian origins, and today LSE is considered one of the world’s finest schools in the social sciences, particularly in economics and political science.
#12 Drury Lane
Continue counterclockwise around the crescent until you come to Drury Lane on your right, and turn onto that road. Cross to the left side of Drury Lane.You are now entering Theatreland (note the logos on street signs). Drury Lane has long been associated with excellence in theatre in London— beginning as a medieval lane called Via de Aldwych (because it leads to the “D”-shaped Aldwych crescent, the ends of which are anchored at the Strand). During the Tudor era, it was renamed for Sir Robert Drury and became well known as a place of ill repute. Two of the first recorded cases of the plague in 1665 were introduced here—presumably brought to London by two French sailors arriving from the Netherlands. Mary “Perdita” Robinson, an actress who became a model and mistress of Gainsborough, lived near here in the late 1700s (on Great Queen’s Street). At the end of the last century, Drury Lane was among the worst slums in London.
#13 Drury Lane to Russell Street
Proceed along Drury Lane to Russell Street on your left. Make your way left along Russell Street.In the 1700s, Russell Street was one of the most notorious streets in London. The Rose Tavern scene from Hogarth’s Rake’s Progress was based on one of the oldest brothels in the area.Note also the Theatre Royal, one of London’s largest theatres, capacity 2,245. Be advised that there are two Theatre Royals in London. The other, near Piccadilly on Haymarket, is designated by the title Theatre Royal Haymarket, while this goes by Theatre Royal, Drury Lane. This theatre, used primarily for blockbuster musicals today, has a three-hundred-year history dating to 1663 (the current structure dates to 1812). As such, it is the oldest London theatre still in use. The ghost of Mr. Buckstone, Victoria’s favorite actor/manager, is reputed to haunt the Upper Circle. This theatre is noteworthy for several reasons. It was here, during the restoration of theatre following the Puritan Interregnum, that women were first allowed to play women’s roles—previously those roles were played by young men, because it was felt that women were not capable of playing themselves. Even then, these actresses were often considered little better than prostitutes, and it was not until the advent of Sarah Siddons (see Little Venice in the Major Area Walks) in the late-eighteenth century that female actresses gained a degree of respectability. Also, it was here that Charles II first saw and became enamored with Nell Gwyn, who became his famous mistress and bore his illegitimate son, the Duke of Albans (the pub on Catherine Street on your left, Nell of Old Drury, is a reminder of her). She began her career selling oranges in the theatre and moved onto the stage, and then into the bed of Charles.In 1774, David Garrick (actor, manager, and part owner) began a major revolution in theatre by reviving Shakespeare and by giving more attention to texts (rehearsals were held and improvisation cut back). The rich were removed from their previously privileged seats on the stage and put into the auditorium itself. The practice of refunding admission to those who left at the first interval was stopped, as was the selling of half-price tickets at the beginning of the third act (the latter led to major riots and had to be reinstated). Even with these innovations, theatre continued to be a very questionable entertainment. The Theatre Royal was the scene of at least two attempted assassinations: plots against the lives of George II and George III.Note the Phoenix Theatre opposite. If you remember the statue of George Peabody from Massachusetts that you saw behind the Royal Exchange, you might be interested in knowing that one of the estates he created for the poor in the late 1800s was on the site of the Phoenix.
#14 Covent Garden
Proceed into the Covent Garden area.As you approach from Russell Street, you will see the tripartite layout of the markets. To your immediate left as you come to the end of Russell Street is what was once the Flower Market, now occupied by the Theatre Museum and London’s Transport Museum. The Central Market (the Apple Market) buildings are directly in front of you, and the Jubilee Market is to your left, past the museums.The Theatre Museum, an extension of the Victoria and Albert museum, was moved to Covent Garden in 1987, but has since been relocated in the V & A. Memorabilia from several of the old theatres, such as the box office from the Palace Theatre, as well as a gilded statue of Spirit of Gaiety, were included in the collection, which now resides in the V & A's Theatre and Performance Galleries. Well worth a visit when you have time, the galleries highlight various key aspects of theatre life, including makeup, set decoration, costumes, creation and production, rehearsal and promotion. The galleries are a must-see for anyone who enjoys theatre.London’s Transport Museum has undergone an extensive renovation (1993). This museum will be of interest primarily to those curious about the history of transportation in London: forms of public transportation since circa 1830 are on site, enabling you to climb aboard and experience what they were like. I highly recommend it. This is another great place to attempt to envision yourself back in time. The museum is a lot more entertaining than the title suggests. You might want to go inside the shop some other time and look around (and get yourself a “Mind the Gap” tee shirt, as well as other souvenirs). Don’t go through the museum at this time, however. You have too much more to see today.The Central Market was refurbished in 1981 (along with much of Covent Garden) and provides the most stable part of the garden, with shops, up-scale boutiques, restaurants, etc. The Jubilee Market is let out to stall holders for the sale of antiques, clothing, leather goods, rugs, gift items, etc. The type of stalls change, depending on the day of the week. Perhaps you want to peruse the stalls and continue the walking tour on another day. If you're thinking of splitting the walk in two (this is stop 15 of 26 total), this is the point at which it is easiest to do that.
#15 Henrietta Street
If you are splitting the walk in half, this would be the point at which you would pick it up again. Make your way to the left of the Central Market Buildings and find Henrietta Street, which takes you between the Central Market and the Jubilee Market areas. Continue along Henrietta Street until you come to a church on your right (look for a building with classical columns.) Enter into the churchyard, go around to the entrance in the front, and take a look inside the church.This is “the other St. Paul’s” in London, the actor’s church. Outside, you may have recognized the portico facing the piazza, where most of the buskers [street performers] perform, as the backdrop for the flower-girl scene from My Fair Lady (with Audrey Hepburn and Rex Harrison). That stage was also the background for the opening scene in George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion (from which My Fair Lady was modeled), as well as that of the first Punch and Judy puppet show in England (a Punch and Judy festival is still held here early in October).You might find it interesting to note all of the plaques on the walls inside St. Paul’s honoring famous British actors and actresses. If you make your way to the left around the church, you should find the plaque for the famous king of the macabre, Boris Karloff (whose real name was William Henry Pratt), whom you probably know from old, old horror movies. Karloff’s performance defined the quintessential Frankenstein monster in the 1930s and 40s. Note the inscription from Andrew Marvel on his plaque (the quote comes from Marvel’s description of the execution of Charles I): “He nothing Common did, or Mean/Upon that remarkable scene.” If you move the other way around the church, you can find the plaque for Vivien Leigh (Vivien Mary Hartley), much loved of all fans of Gone With the Wind. She also played Lady Hamilton, opposite Laurence Olivier’s Lord Nelson in That Hamilton Woman—reputed to be Winston Churchill’s favorite movie. The plaque has an appropriate inscription from Shakespeare’s Anthony and Cleopatra: “Now boast thee, death, in thy possession lies/A lass unparallel’d.”Some of the names that you may not know are those of Marie (pronounced MAR-ee) Lloyd, the queen of British musical halls, who was the subject of a one-woman London play at the Phoenix in 1995. The name of Thomas Arne is also probably foreign to you, but some of his music is not. A composer for the Drury Lane Theatre, he presented, for the first time, the now-famous “Rule Britannia” in one of his masques, Alfred. You may also be familiar with the name of Noel Coward, a famous entertainer, composer, and playwright. A small silver casket holds the remains of Ellen Terry, one of the most famous of British actresses. All these and more are honored in this small little church.
#16 King Street to James Street
When you come out of the church, turn right and exit the churchyard through the arch to King Street. Turn right on King Street. Follow it to James Street and turn left. Move along this street.As you walk along James Street, you will see Floral Street to your right. This leads to the Royal Opera House, home of the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet in London, which underwent a £55 million renovation completed in 1996. Neither opera nor ballet have been London’s strong suit, and that unfortunately continues to be the case to the present. The opera house was constructed in 1732, and the operas of Handel, which were performed 1735–1759, were the first music to be sponsored at Covent Garden. Soon a major rivalry emerged between the Royal Opera House and the Theatre Royal that lasted over the next century and a half, until Italian opera became popular and gave the edge in that domain to the Opera House. The second Opera House opened in 1809, with a facade modeled after the Temple of Minerva. When it opened, the management attempted to raise the prices to help recover part of the building costs. So-called “Old Price Riots” erupted and lasted for two months until the prices were reduced again. The second opera house burned in 1855, opening the way for the present building. The current structure was constructed in 1860 on the grounds where the two previous opera houses stood. The material on the facade of the present Opera House was salvaged from the second version.
#17 James Street to Long Acre
Follow James Street until you come to the Covent Garden tube station, and then turn left onto Long Acre.Long Acre was so named because it was once a long, thin field beside the old Convent Garden. Sometime you might want to go to the right on this road to the Freemason’s Hall. Since 1993, the Freemasons have offered tours through this impressive hall. However, today stay left.
#18 Long Acre to Cranbourne Street to Leicester Square
Follow Long Acre until you get to the Leicester Square tube station, move across Charing Cross Road and follow Cranbourne Street (straight across the street) into Leicester Square.You are entering at the northeast corner of the square. You probably know Leicester (pronounced Les-ter) Square for its theatres and half-price tickets—sold from the stall on the opposite corner from where you entered today. Come back later and look at the square for its own purposes. Originally, it was the property of the second Earl of Leicester, who was allowed to build a mansion here on the agreement that he would leave a field of green where the locals could dry their clothing. The field of green is still there. Several important people have lived around the square, and four of them are commemorated in busts that have been placed at the four corners of the park, around the statue of William Shakespeare in the center of the park. Take time to look at the busts of the four men: Sir Joshua Reynolds, first president of the British Royal Academy of Art; William Hogarth, the father of English painting; Sir Isaac Newton, the father of modern physics; and John Hunter, the founder of scientific surgery, whom we met in the last walk through his museum on the border of Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Hunter’s bust—for you who are students of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood—was sculpted by Thomas Woolner. Don’t miss the statue of Charlie Chaplin near the corner where the Reynolds bust is located. During the late 1700s, the square was a favorite gathering place of artists.Note also that all around on the pavement near the openings into the park (inside the fence) you will see mileage stones to such exotic far-away places as Ottawa, Belize, the Bahamas, Jamaica, Botswana, Swaziland, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Nigeria, Ghana, Malta, etc. For American history buffs, John Singleton Copley, the American painter for whom Copley Square in Boston is named, also lived for a time at Leicester Square.
#19 Irving Street to Trafalgar Square
Make your way to the southeast corner (the corner closest to the bust of John Hunter), find Irving Street, and follow it out of the square. As you proceed along Irving Street, you may see the back of the National Gallery complex (which you must visit on another day if you haven’t already done so—it will take you several days to fully examine it). Stay on the walk adjacent to it as you pass the National Portrait Gallery (also a must).Sir Henry Irving was also a famous actor in British history—the first to be knighted in 1895, thus giving the profession respectability. Since then many actors and actresses have received similar honors. Irving Street was named in his honor.Note the statue of Edith Cavell to your left as you make your way down the street. She was a famous nurse in British history, executed by the Germans in World War I for helping to organize an escape network for allied soldiers in Belgium after the Germans had conquered that country. Note the quote engraved on the bottom of the monument—it's food for thoughtNote also the Garrick Theatre to your left. David Garrick, a friend and pupil of Samuel Johnson in the 1700s, whom we have previously mentioned in connection with the Theatre Royal, was the last actor to be buried in Westminster Abbey. Look past the statue of Edith Cavell up St. Martin’s Lane and you will see the famous London Coliseum and the English National Opera Building (both of which you may want to visit later).
#20 Trafalgar Square and St. Martin's in-the-Field
Move into Trafalgar Square with the National Gallery on your right and St. Martin’s in-the-Field (one of the most famous of the London churches) on your left.You will most likely be familiar with this church through the Academy of St. Martin’s-in-the-Field. Founded by Sir Neville Marriner and some of the leading orchestral figures in London in 1959, this has become the most recorded chamber orchestra in the world—a chorus was added in 1975. Though the academy tours worldwide, this is their home. You should go in the church sometime, if you haven’t already, and also visit the market that is to the left as you view the church from the National Gallery. You may also want to attend one or more of the concerts that are held here on weekdays at mid-day and evening.St. Martin's-in-the-Field is also the home of the Pearly Harvest Festival held here the first Sunday in October. The famed Pearly Kings and Queens are often seen in many of the civic parades and other celebrations in London. They have been around since 1875, and since 1975 they have functioned as a national organization dedicated to the furtherance of charitable work of all kinds. They have maintained a close connection with St. Martin’s, which is now their national headquarters. They are easily recognized by the array of pearl buttons sewn on their costumes. Following the lead of the nineteenth-century costermongers (apple sellers)—who adopted a costume decorated with pearl buttons about the size of a British penny sewn on the seam of their trousers (pants in Britain refers to underwear) from the ankle to the knee, and on the front of the pockets of their waistcoats (Americans would use the term vest, but vests in Britain are men’s undershirts), and the front of their hats—the Pearly Kings and Queens went one step farther to cover their entire attire with such buttons. One becomes a “Pearly” most commonly by inheritance.Look to the right of the church down Duncannon Street, and you can see the Charing Cross Road that you visited earlier in the walk. On Duncannon, to your right, is a pub that was formerly called the Lady Hamilton, which was well placed, because Lady Hamilton was Lord Nelson’s mistress for many years, and Lord Nelson is the center of attention in Trafalgar Square. Alas, this subtle bit of humor was lost, and the pub is now called Half Way to Heaven.Trafalgar Square is named to commemorate the Battle of Trafalgar in Spain in which the French navy was destroyed by Lord Horatio Nelson. Take time to take a good look at the square. Formerly the square was inhabited by literally hundreds of pigeons. People would buy feed from a seed vender, and then take pictures with outstretched arms, loaded with pigeons. (Sadly, a few who had pigeons perching on their heads found out what it was like to be a statue in London.) When major reforms were made to the square, it became illegal to feed pigeons in the area (a fine of $50 for doing so), and one finds far fewer pigeons here. Lord Nelson’s column, 167' 6.5" tall, has only one arm—he lost his right arm in a battle at Teneriffe—and one eye is covered with a patch, having lost that eye in a naval engagement at Corsica. The four giant lions around the square were the creation of Sir Edwin Landseer, one of England’s great animal painters, who, incidentally, is commemorated with a plaque in the crypt of St. Paul’s. On the base of the column are reliefs made from captured French cannons depicting Nelson’s victories at St. Vincent, the Nile, Copenhagen, and Trafalgar. The northern part of the square (the side closest to the National Gallery) is raised to resemble the poop-deck of an English man-of-war.Look down Whitehall to the tower of Big Ben, which is a good marker to give you an idea of where you are from the Parliament buildings. Across the street, at the head of Whitehall, is an equestrian statue of Charles I, facing down Whitehall, away from you. It is a rather interesting piece, standing where the original Charing Cross stood after it was removed from its original location prior to its destruction. During the Protestant Interregnum under Cromwell, orders were given to melt down the statue of Charles, but faithful followers of the king hid it away until after the Interregnum, when Charles’ son, Charles II, came to the throne. Then it was brought out of hiding and placed in this prominent place. Just in back of the statue, on the side closest to you, on the ground, was a plaque marking the official center of London. All distances from London were marked from this spot— making it like the southeast corner of Temple Square in Salt Lake City.
#21 Pall Mall
After you have examined the square, go back to the front of the National Gallery, and locate Pall Mall, which goes to the left as you face toward the gallery.Pall Mall was given this designation because of a game by the same name that was played on this street, a game something like croquet. Charles II had played it while in exile in France, and brought it back to England. It became something of a rage when he returned. Note the statue of George Washington in front of the National Gallery.The National Gallery itself is worth a visit when you have the time to soak in a wonderful collection of European art. The gallery holds over 2,300 paintings and has places to eat and shops for books, prints, and other interesting memorabilia. In addition there are concerts on a regular basis. It's a lovely respite from the busyness of the city.
#22 Pall Mall to Piccadilly Circus
Go along this road, past the statue of George III (who died insane) astride his horse. During the bouts of madness, one of the things that made him most distraught was the defeat of the British army at the hands of the colonies in the American Revolution—led by Washington, who stands, ironically, at a more prominent place at the other end of the gallery front. When you come to Haymarket Road on your right, turn and follow along Haymarket until you come to the statue of the Horses of Helios, and then turn to your left into Piccadilly Circus—London’s version of Times Square in New York.The Four Horses of Helios statue represents (in bronze) the four golden horses of Helios, the Greek sun god, who were thought to pull his golden chariot across the sky during the day and rest at night. They were given the names Pyrois, Eos, Aethon, and Phleyon. The three figures of women diving into the air above them represent the Three Graces, or Charities—also from Greek mythology. The three, whose names are Euphrosyne (joy), Thallia (abundance), and Aglaea (brilliance or splendor), are the mythological daughters of Zeus and Hera, and also the personal attendants of Aphrodite, goddess of love. Though the Three Graces have provided a popular inspiration for famous artists through the ages, these are very untraditional in their pose. Both works were sculpted by Rudy Weller. More of his original art is featured at the Cross Keys pub, 1 Lawrence Street in Chelsea.As you enter Piccadilly Circus, you are viewing one of the most famous gathering places in the world. In fact, it is often referred to as the “navel of London.” Near here, the original resident of Piccadilly (Robert Baker, a tailor from Somerset) lived, during the reign of Elizabeth I. As a tailor, he would probably have made “piccadilles” or “piccadillies” (a sort of ruff worn by men in Elizabethan times), from which the circle is reputed to have received its name. Nearby, during the late medieval period, was the site of a large windmill. This is why there is a Great Windmill Street on your left as you leave this area and why one of the theatres in the circus is represented by a windmill. The statue in the center of the circle was originally created to honor Lord Ashley, the seventh Earl of Shaftesbury, whose motto was "Love, Serve." It was the first statue cast in aluminum in the UK. The intended name of the statue is the Angel of Christian Charity, which name well characterizes this famous philanthropist, who worked tenaciously to reform factory abuses and to help improve the working conditions of underpaid factory workers. His Coal Mines Act of 1842, for example, finally kept women and children (under 13) from working in the mines. An opponent of “radicalism,” Lord Ashley still did much to support the trade union movement. Unfortunately, the statue has since become known (erroneously) as Eros (the god of sensual love).Originally, the bow was posed with its arrow aimed toward Shaftesbury Avenue (named for Lord Shaftesbury). However, during the construction of the Piccadilly tube station, the statue was removed and taken to Victorian Embankment Gardens. Subsequently, it was moved twice more, spending most of World War II in Surrey, and later, in the Old County Hall. When it was returned to its original site, the workmen reinstalled it facing the wrong direction, so that now the arrow aims away from Shaftesbury Avenue.
#23 Shaftesbury Avenue to Gerrard Street
Leave Piccadilly by Shaftesbury Avenue, which is the first road to your right as you enter Piccadilly Circus. Shaftesbury is named for Lord Ashley, Earl of Shaftesbury. Make your way to Wardour Street on your right and turn. Go to Gerrard Street, on your left, and make your way along Gerrard.You will soon note, from street signs, the large pagoda entrances, and pagoda-style roofs on the red telephone kiosks, that you are now in London’s Chinatown. The Chinese characters on all the archways were sponsored by the Hong Kong government, and the Chinese lions halfway along Gerrard Street were sponsored by the People’s Republic of China. This is one of the best areas to come if you get an urge for Chinese food. The Chinese have been in London since the early nineteenth century, but originally they settled around Limehouse in the East End docks area. That is the area portrayed in the Victorian melodramas of opium dens. In the 1950s, after World War II, the Chinese population in London expanded, and many moved into the area of Soho, creating contemporary Chinatown on 29 October 1985.
#24 Gerrard Street to Shaftesbury Avenue to Charing Cross Road
At the end of Gerrard, turn left on Gerrard Place, returning to Shaftesbury Avenue. Turn right onto Shaftesbury and walk until you reach Charing Cross Road. Turn left at the Palace Theatre and make your way along Charing Cross Road.Charing Cross Road forms the eastern boundary and Shaftesbury Avenue the southern boundary of the Soho area of London. So-ho is said to have been the medieval hunting cry used by those who were hunting hares, just as tally-ho was for fox hunters. Soho remained a hunting ground until the early seventeenth century. Then it became known as yet another infamous red-light district of London. Today it is more well known as one of the famous areas for restaurants in the city—though it is still rather sleazy at night.Charing Cross Road is also famous as the street that gave its name to the novel 84 Charing Cross Road. You may have seen the movie, with Anthony Hopkins and Anne Bancroft—if you haven’t, I highly recommend it. Although there is no bookstore at #84, there are a plethora of bookstores on this street—both new and used books and if you are a collector of used books, this is a good place to begin hunting. Don’t miss exploring Foyles bookstore, on your left. It is one of London’s premier book stores.
#25 The End: Return to the BYU Centre
Finish this walk at the Tottenham Court tube station on the Central Line, and make your way home. Now that you know the lay of the land, I hope you will commit it to memory so that you can more easily navigate this area on foot.
