Introduction
Initially, we walked the walls that defined the boundaries of Roman Londinium. Then we walked through the interior of the ancient city, focusing on the modern “financial London” in the eastern half of the City. In this walk, we will go through the western half of the City—the part between the outside of the old medieval wall and Temple Bar, the present western boundary of the City. This is the segment commonly known as “the Temple” (for reasons we will explain later) or “Legal London.” You will probably sense a difference almost immediately between the east and the west parts of the City. Whereas the eastern part of the City is progressive, with its fast-paced tempo and its modern architecture, the western segment has retained much of the serenity of its medieval past.In this walk, we will visit three major areas of the City, two of which are in the western part: 1) the Guildhall, 2) Smithfield, including St. Bartholomew’s, and 3) the Inns of Court, including “the Temple.”GuildhallGuildhall, still a major center of political and social activity in the government of the City, was constructed around a continental-style piazza, near the northwest corner of the area defined by the old wall. The church on the southern side of the piazza is St. Lawrence Jewry, one of Christopher Wren’s best-designed churches—called such because of the Jews who lived in the area. Since we didn’t have the time to visit it during the City Walk, we will do so in this walk. Although destroyed twice by fire—in 1666, during the Great Fire, and in 1940, during World War II—the Guildhall has functioned as the nerve center of the City Corporation of London since the early 1400s. The Guildhall serves many of the same purposes as a “town hall” in American cities. Important town meetings, elections, and social functions are still held here, such as the yearly Lord Mayor’s banquet, during which the Prime Minister addresses the City’s functionaries. The Guildhall well deserves the distinction of being “the heart of the city.” During the time of Saxon Lundenwic, the entire male population had a say in the governance of the City. Three times a year, the citizenry were called by the bells of old St. Paul’s to gather in the northeast corner of the churchyard, where they would assent to or disagree with any proposals put to them. Over time, however, this system became cumbersome; it was replaced by a more streamlined system based on government by guilds. These guilds functioned as “unions” or “associations” of merchants. Thus, the central Guildhall is in many ways similar to the Chamber of Commerce in an American city. These unions of merchants evolved into a government formed from the leading citizens in each of the merchant crafts in the City: the mercers (dealers in expensive fabrics), the grocers, the drapers, the fishmongers, the goldsmiths, the skinners, the merchant tailors, the haberdashers (dealers in men’s clothing and accessories), the salters, the ironmongers, the vintners (wine merchants), and the cloth workers—all of which acquired royal charters granting them the right to hold property and to govern the City as an independent entity. Each of the guilds had a distinctive uniform peculiar to their vocation. Initially, everyone in the guild had the option to wear the uniform, but later that right was restricted to their elected leaders, the liverymen, who became the spokesman for each independent guild. From an assembly of these liverymen, one individual was chosen and appointed as a mayor for the City. By the fifteenth century, the term “Lord Mayor” had come into vogue. Perhaps the most famous was Richard Whittington. You may remember the logo used in the London Museum of a man and his cat—that is Dick Whittington. The legend is that of a poor young boy who came to seek his fortune in London. After arriving, he apprenticed himself to one of the richer merchants and, upon discovering rats in his room, acquired a cat to keep down the rodent population. The cat did his work in an excellent manner, and later the merchant, while traveling abroad, found a client who was also greatly troubled by rats. Whittington’s cat was sent for to alleviate the situation. Again the cat was successful and, as a consequence, was instrumental in gaining favor for Whittington abroad. According to the legend, on one occasion young Whittington became discouraged and left London, only to be called back by the Bow Bells that supposedly exclaimed, “Turn back Dick Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of London.” A small monument has been erected in the middle of a sidewalk on the road to Highgate, commemorating the supposed spot at which he turned back. Whittington did indeed become Lord Mayor of London, for four terms (between 1397 and 1420), but the facts of his life are quite different. For one thing, he was the son of a wealthy Gloucestershire squire; he came to London and entered the mercers’ trade. He married into wealth and rose rapidly to leadership both in his guild and in the city government. Not only did he often make loans to the king (until the time of the Stuarts, the City was often a source of loans to the monarchs), but he also contributed frequently to philanthropic causes. He became so popular that his life story was made into a play. At the same time, he was portrayed by an engraver with his hand upon a skull (a typical pose for the times), but popular demand caused the engraver to redo the skull as a cat—probably the source of the legend. However, another reason is suggested for the cat in the engraving, and the legend: a coal barge was known as a catte, and Whittington also traded in coal.Smithfield and St. Bartholomew InstitutionsOriginally, Smithfield was a grassy expanse (or “smooth field,” possibly from the Saxon, “smothe field,” one suggested derivation of the name) outside the city walls. During its life span, it became noted for three major features: 1) its function as a public gathering place (including public executions), 2) its meat market, and 3) the hospital and church of St. Bartholomew.From its inception, Smithfield was noted for its spectacles and public assemblages. Many famous tournaments were held here. It also became a favorite place for executions, both hangings and burnings at the stake: William Wallace of Scottish fame was hanged here, and over three hundred Protestant martyrs were burned at the stake during the reign of Mary I—a practice which earned her the nickname “bloody Mary.”However, the most popular and long-lived entertainment came in the form of the infamous Bartholomew Fairs, which date back to 1123. From the very first, the fair attracted more than its share of hooligans and undesirables. At one point, it became so popular that public demand extended the length of the fair from the traditional three days to two weeks. However, in 1708, it was again only allotted the traditional three-day duration. By the mid-eighteenth century, its reputation had grown so bad that Ronald Paulson, a biographer of William Hogarth, described it this way, “The fair was a last place, short of the gin shop, where man could escape civilization and return to his instincts and primary chaos.” In 1855, polite society demanded the closing of the Bartholomew Fair, and Smithfield Market was constructed on the site.For seven hundred years (1150–1855) Smithfield Market was the chief horse and cattle market of London. In 1327, Edward III gave Smithfield market rights, and in 1638, a royal charter was extended to the “Central Meat Market.” Over the years, Smithfield became for the meat industry what Billingsgate was for the fish markets and Spitalfields for the produce industry.The pollution caused by the slaughter of so many thousands of animals became one of the major environmental problems of London by the nineteenth century. One of the most memorable descriptions of Smithfield Market and those who were there comes from Charles Dickens in his 1838 novel Oliver Twist: "It was market morning. The ground was covered nearly ankle deep with filth and mire; and a thick steam perpetually rising from the reeking bodies of the cattle, and mingling with the fog, which seemed to rest upon the chimney tops, hung heavily above. . . . Countrymen, butchers, drovers, hawkers, boys, thieves, idlers, and vagabonds of every low grade, were mingled together in a dense mass: the whistling of drovers, the barking of dogs, the bellowing and plunging of beasts, the bleating of sheep, and the grunting and squealing of pigs; the cries of hawkers, the shouts, oaths, and quarreling on all sides, the ringing of bells, and the roar of voices that issued from every public house; the crowding, pushing, driving, beating, whooping and yelling; the hideous and discordant din that resounded from every corner of the market; and the unwashed, unshaven, squalid, and dirty figures constantly running to and fro, and bursting in and out of the throng, rendered it a stunning and bewildering scene which quite confused the senses" (Chapter 21).In the mid-1800s, the live-cattle market was moved by act of Parliament away from Smithfield to nearby Islington. In the late 1860s, Sir Horace Jones, who also designed Billingsgate and Leadenhall Markets, engineered the buildings, which were destroyed by a major fire in 1958. In the last part of the 1900s, the market had to be redesigned to comply with the sanitation requirements of the European Community. The market is still functional, wholesaling not only meat and poultry, but also cheese, pies, and other delicatessen items. The London Central Market, as it is currently known, boasts one of the most modern meat markets in Europe, if not in the world.Nearby the Smithfield area are two institutions bearing the name St. Bartholomew (or as the locals refer to them, “St. Bart’s”): St. Bartholomew’s church and St. Bartholomew’s hospital. The church is one of London’s oldest and has an interesting history.Edward the Confessor, who built Westminster Abbey, purportedly had a prophetic dream in which he was told that Smithfield had been chosen by God as a place of worship. Later, in the early twelfth century, the church was founded by Rahere, a court jester to Henry I, who was smitten with malaria while traveling in Italy. In answer to his fervent prayers for recovery, he was taken up by a beast with four feet and two wings to a “high place,” where he saw a vision of St. Bartholomew’s in London. After his return to Smithfield, he enlisted bands of children and others to gather rocks from several places in London to use as his building materials.After the chapel in the White Tower of London, St. Bart’s is the oldest Norman church still standing in London. When Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries in Britain, St. Bartholomew was sold to Sir Richard Rich—of A Man For All Seasons fame, who testified falsely against Sir Thomas More—for his personal ends. Eventually, it also housed a printers’ workshop. Benjamin Franklin was employed here in 1724 during his stay in London, and the American short-story writer Washington Irving also lived nearby. The north transept was turned into a forge, as evidenced by the blackened walls. The whole church has been truncated (“squatted in” to use the British term—made shorter). The present churchyard occupies the space once occupied by the original nave of the church.St. Bartholomew Hospital was originally established in 1123 as a hospital and an Augustinian priory. As such, it is the oldest general hospital in London. It was one of the few sites preserved as a charitable institution after the time of the dissolution. William Harvey, the discoverer of the body’s circulatory system, was once its head surgeon; at the same time, he was also court physician to both King James I and King Charles I.Temple ChurchIn the 1200s, the clergy ceased practicing in the courts of justice and were replaced by secular students of the law. The Inns of Court were the first English institutions to offer higher education to laymen rather than to noble families. Practicing law, in fact, became a way for a layman to work his way upward in the class structure. By the time of Henry VIII, almost two thousand students were enrolled in legal studies in London. Settling themselves in the Inns of Court, away from the hubbub of the City, they received at least a smattering of education in the law—in addition to training in singing, dancing, and other courtly games. This education was vastly preferred by many to that of the ancient universities of Oxford and Cambridge.Earlier, during the time of the Crusades, two important military orders had emerged in England: the Knights of the Hospital of St. James of Jerusalem (not a medical establishment, but rather an international order both military and monastic—an unusual combination) and the Knights Templar. The Hospitallers existed to protect the rights of Christians once they arrived in Jerusalem (their English headquarters were north of Smithfield), and the Templars were dedicated to protect pilgrims on the way to Jerusalem (their headquarters in London were where the Temple Church now stands). The two were traditional rivals. Both employed a round church modeled on the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, both grew rich through gifts from many sources (primarily those who wished to pay their way into blessings, rather than making the long pilgrimage to the Holy Land), and both attracted enemies (other than each other) because of their wealth.The British monarchs favored the Templars, and even kept their royal treasury for a time in the Temple Church. France, however,was opposed to the Templars, and persuaded the pope to dissolve the order and to give their property to their rivals, the Hospitallers. Ironically, the Temple Church still survives and the Hospitallers, who were one focus of attack during the peasant revolt of 1381, have no physical remains except the St. John Ambulance Brigade, which has descended from their tradition. When the land of the Templars was given to the Hospitallers, lawyers moved into the territory as the first tenants and have never left. The area known as “the Temple” and associated with the Inns of Court (those north of the Temple and those in the Temple) has become the legal center of London—placed strategically between the City and Westminster.The Royal Courts of Justice on Fleet Street are akin to the Supreme Court in the U.S., constructed to perform the function for the Supreme Court of Judicature, established in England in 1873. Completed in 1882, its architectural style has been facetiously called “Disneyland Victorian,” being a combination of medieval cathedral, French château, and railway terminus. This court deals only with civil cases, but you can drop in almost any time to watch the proceedings of a trial. There is also a nice educational display of legal regalia at the back part of the entrance hall. Fleet Street, which we will meet at the end of this walk, was named for the Fleet River, which at one time was a major tributary flowing into the Thames near here. As the river degenerated through pollution into something akin to an open sewer, it suffered the fate of the other tributaries (like Walbrook in the city and the Tyburn in Westminster) and was covered over in 1760.Around 1500, Wynken de Worde, William Caxton’s protege, established his printing press on Fleet Street. This move, although largely symbolic, marked the beginning of the printing industry that later took root on this street. It continued until the latter part of the 1900s—at which time the industry moved east to the Docklands area.
#1 Bank Tube Station
This walk begins at the Bank tube station. Look for exit 2; take this up the stairs and take the left hand exit. This will bring you above ground on Princess Street. If, once on Princess Street, you were to go immediately left around the corner, you would face the Royal Exchange (the building with the statuary in front of it). But instead, cross Princess Street so you are on the left-hand side of the street, then follow this street away from the tube stop and the Royal Exchange. The Bank of England (with its wall-like facade) is across the street on your right. At the point that Princes Street becomes Moorgate, turn left onto Gresham, cross to the right side of the street, and follow Gresham (named for Sir Thomas, who, as we have already noted, was responsible for the birth of the Royal Exchange) until you arrive at the Guildhall. (There is one sign indicating Guildhall to your right that you will need to ignore.) Remain on Gresham until you come to St. Lawrence Jewry Church. You will be able to see the Guildhall complex to your right through an alleyway. Go into the complex.Ahead of you in the square is the main hall—the Hall of the Corporation of the City of London—built in the early 1400s, and the site of several city functions; to your right is the new Guildhall Art Gallery. Inquire whether it is possible to enter the main hall. In times of tightened security, it may not be.Inside the main hall are statues of several British heros: Sir Winston Churchill has a statue there, as does Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, and William Pitt, Earl of Chatham—from whom Pittsburgh derives its name. Here also are the coat of arms of the various guilds and (on the floor, as well as on the walls opposite the statues of the famous) the imperial standards of length for such measurements as one foot, two feet, an imperial yard, and metric measurements. These are like the time standard at Greenwich, in that they are the standards for measurement in Britain.On the musician’s gallery above the entrance are the statues of Gog and Magog (Gog wields a shield). These have nothing to do with the last battle mentioned in the biblical book of Revelation; rather, they supposedly originated in early legends of a conflict between the ancient Britons and the Trojans in 1,000 B.C.I encourage you also to come back to the Guildhall Art Gallery at your earliest convenience, especially if you are interested in English Victorian art. This gallery, like the Tate Britain, has one of the finest collections of such art in London. When the gallery was being built in the final years of the twentieth century, work had to be delayed for several years because of the discovery of remains of a Roman amphitheater—the first found in the City. (Whenever such ruins are discovered in London, no construction can take place until the site has been thoroughly excavated.) You will need more time to explore this gallery, but for now you can walk into the main foyer and see what is there. The major gallery space (as well as the amphitheater ruins) is downstairs, and contains (in my opinion) art that is far superior to that in the main lobby.There is also an excellent library in the major complex. This is one of the libraries that you can arrange to use while you are in London. If you are at all interested in the history of London, you should go in and look at the bookstore. Every segment of Greater London has a history written about it, and this library has one of the best collections I have seen of these histories. If you have genealogical connections in London or consider doing research on Greater London, this is a place you should visit. Inside the library is also a clock museum that may be of interest to you.
#2 Gresham Street to St. Martin's le Grand
Return to Gresham Street, turn right, and continue until you come to St. Martin’s le Grand. Cross St. Martin’s, turn left and follow that road.On your way along Gresham Street, note all of the references to guilds and occupations, designated by street and buildings names: e.g., the Haberdasher Hall, Goldsmith’s Hall, etc. If you are walking with a group, you may want to have a contest to see who can find the most. By now, the surroundings should start to look familiar to you as you are coming into some of the territory of the first walk. Postman’s Park is to your right. St. Paul’s is directly ahead of you.
#3 Newgate to Little Britain Street
Watch for Newgate coming up on your right, and turn on to it. Take the first road to your right—King Edward Street—and continue to follow it when it turns into Little Britain Street as it curves. Passing the turn toward the right (which you will come upon first), the street will then go to the left; this is still Little Britain Street. Continue to hold to this course and the street will take you into Smithfield, one of the most famous areas of early London.To your left as you come up King Edward Street is St. Bartholomew’s, one of the famous hospitals of London, dating back to early medieval times. The north wing contains very famous portraits done by some of Britain’s best portrait painters, but unfortunately these are not normally open to the public. William Hogarth, the famous painter who was born nearby and baptized in St. Bartholomew’s, painted two large paintings for the hospital: the Pool of Bethesda and the Good Samaritan. We will visit these later on this walk.Over the main gate of the hospital you will notice a statue of Henry VIII. St. Bart's was in danger of being closed because of its association with the Priory of St. Bartholomew, dissolved in the dissolution of the monasteries. This gate, erected in honor (albeit quite belatedly) of Henry's generous bestowal of St. Bart's to the City in order to continue taking care of the poor, carries the distinction of having the only outdoor statue of Henry in all of London. Though Henry VIII would not be a name you would typically associate with charity and compassion, the stately main gate through which staff, patients, and visitors pass daily has stood for over three hundred years as testament of this bestowal. However, few seem to know of Henry's involvement with the downtrodden. And even less well-known is the name change which Henry insisted go with his gift of the hospital to the City: "House of the Poore in West Smithfield in the suburbs of the City of London, of King Henry the VIII's foundation." Unimpressed, Londoners stuck with "St. Bart's"; in 1948, the name was officially changed back to this more familiar and loved moniker.
#4 St. Bartholomew-the-Great Church
On your right, as you come to the end of Little Britain Street, start looking for a stone archway leading into the remains of St. Bartholomew-the-Great Church. Go through the churchyard and into the church and have a look. Note: as of Fall 2018, Little Britain Street is blocked by construction about block from its entrance off of King Edward Street. To get to St. Bartholomew-the-Great, follow Little Britain Street and turn right onto Bartholomew Close, the small lane just before the construction. Stay on this as it winds past several buildings and eventually ends at Middle Street. Turn left onto Middle Street and Saint Bartholomew-the-Great Church will be on your left. Enter through the courtyard.The gateway to St. Bartholomew-the-Great is a thirteenth-century arch and the original entrance to the nave (so that you may tell how extensively the church has been truncated). The choir contains some of the finest Norman (round) arches in the country. Look for the evidences of the forge that once was in this area as well. Look for the memorial for Rahere, the founder of the church, inside.
#5 Smithfield Central Market
Cross the courtyard and exit through the arch on the left. This will put you back on Little Britain Street. Continue on Little Britain Street to the Smithfield Central Market for a look inside.Smithfield Central Market is the structure with the red brick and stone, with domed towers at either end. This is a market that specializes in meat and poultry— vegetarians may want to skip this one. The market was originally designed to hold over sixty thousand sides of beef. However, in order to comply with sanitation standards established by the European Community, the market has become smaller through the creation of buildings in which to chill the meat. The best time to visit is early in the morning, before 8:00 a.m., when the market is open. It opens for business at 6 a.m. Plan to take your nose plugs and to see one of the great spectacles of London. As indicated in the introduction, you can also buy other things here besides meat.
#6 Wallace Memorial
Come back to the circle in front of the market, and backtrack around it, towards and then past the entrance of Saint Bartholomew-the-Great. Just past the entrance of Saint Bart's you will see a plaque on the wall about the demise of Sir William Wallace.While in the courtyard in front of the market, you might try to imagine what the early market looked like on a busy day, or to conjure up an execution or two in your mind, as Smithfield was also the scene of hangings and burnings. Look on the wall of St. Bartholomew’s on your left for the plaque noting the execution site of Sir William Wallace—of Braveheart fame—in 1305. It is not unusual to find flowers left here in his honor by those making a pilgrimage to honor his memory. Hundreds of Protestants were burned at the stake here for their religious convictions during Tudor times.
#7 St. Bart's to St. Bartholomew-the-Less
Proceed along the side of St. Bart’s with its wall to your left. Go to the entrance marked St. Bartholomew-the-Less. Go through the gate into the courtyard of the hospital. Move forward inside the court until you go under the first, but not the second, archway. Look to your left for the entrance to the hospital museum (which is a very small museum— just a couple of rooms), and go in.If there is someone there to greet you in St. Bartholomew-the-Less, ask to see the Grand Staircase and the Hogarth paintings. If not, just walk through the museum to the opposite side from where you enter, and you will find an open door that allows you to see the two paintings: the Pool of Bethesda and the Good Samaritan, on the walls on either side of the Grand Staircase. These were done free of charge by William Hogarth (even though murals were not Hogarth’s strong point) when he found that the board of directors intended to hire an Italian painter to do major murals on the walls. Hogarth was born just a short distance from the hospital in St. Bartholomew’s Close.
#8 Giltspur and Cock Lane
Retrace your steps to the same entrance where you came in, and go back to Giltspur. Cross Giltspur and look for Cock Lane, which will enter Giltspur on your right.At the junction of Giltspur and Cock Lane you will find the famous gilded statue of the Fat Boy (he is in an alcove above street level so you will have to look up to find him). A plaque at eye level describes the situation associated with the statue. Cock Lane is (erroneously) reputed to be the western extremity of the Great Fire of London (where it stopped). At the time of the fire, this was known as Pye Corner. Hence, it was said that the fire began at Pudding Lane and ended at Pye Corner (shades of “Georgie Porgie, puddin’ and pie.”). Many attributed the fire to London sinfulness and the statue of the nude little Fat Boy was constructed as a symbol of gluttony.
#9 Giltspur to Newgate Street
Follow Giltspur to Newgate Street, which becomes Holborn Viaduct at this point. When you reach Newgate Street again, Old Bailey Road is the road directly in front of you, across the intersection.Down Old Bailey Road is the Old Bailey, the chief criminal court for London. The public is admitted to view trials when the courts are sitting. You may want to come back another time and watch a trial. They are listed on a board on the wall inside. Atop the green copper dome of Old Bailey is the statue of LadyJustice. This statue (holding scales and a sword, but not blind or blindfolded as she is usually depicted in the US) is re-gilded every five years. The Central Criminal Court (or Old Bailey) stands upon the ground where Newgate Prison once was. One custom dating back to old court times is that of the judges traditionally carrying in a small bunch of flowers at the beginning of each session. It is said that this practice dates back to an attempt to cloak somewhat the odor of the prison cells at Newgate. This infamous prison was the site of public executions (formerly held at Tyburn) from 1783 to 1868—at which time they were moved indoors. The remains of a Romano-Celtic temple, which originally covered 600 square feet and stood just outside the old Roman wall, was discovered in 1988, below the new office block just opposite the prison.
#10 Holborn Viaduct to Newgate to Chancery Lane
Turn right onto Holborn Viaduct and cross over the viaduct—built to carry people over the Hole-Bourne (a major gully associated with the Fleet River). After crossing the viaduct, move to the lefthand side of the road, and continue along Newgate until you reach Chancery Lane.Holborn Viaduct is an interesting passageway itself. It was constructed during 1867–69 to connect the City to the western parts of Greater London. Four thousand dwellings had to be destroyed to make way for the construction. Note the statues dedicated to Commerce, Agriculture, Science, and the Fine Arts on the viaduct.Just a word of warning: the walk to Chancery Lane is a rather long one. Just consider it your exercise for today. Along the way you will cross a major intersection, Holborn Circus, containing a statue of Prince Albert (at which point Holborn Viaduct turns into Holborn), then past a second monument, and finally past the Chancery Lane tube station. The road coming in from your right just before the tube station is Gray’s Inn Road. If you were to go up that road, you would go past the east side of Gray’s Inn, one of the two most famous Inns of Court.Much of the land to the north at this point was initially the estate of Lord Reynold Grey de Wilton, who died in 1308, and the land to the south belonged to Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, a royal justice under Edward I. That is where the names for Gray’s Inn and Lincoln’s Inn originated. Both inns became associated with the Inns of Court and have retained that connection to the present. There are currently four Inns of Court that give lectures on the law and examine candidates for admission to the Bar in Britain: Gray’s Inn, Lincoln’s Inn, Inner Temple, and Middle Temple (the latter are on the south side of Fleet Street).
#11 Chancery Lane to Fleet Street
When you arrive at Chancery Lane, on your left, turn and proceed along that road until you arrive at Fleet Street.Fleet Street was named after the river that once flowed through this vicinity. The center of the British newspaper industry used to be farther up the street until the 1990s, but has since moved to the Docklands area and to the South Bank. Chancery Lane was originally Chancellor’s Lane, so named because Henry III gave the land to his Lord Chancellor, Bishop of Chichester, in 1227. This is one of the reasons why those interested in the law settled in this area. Chancery Lane was once home to two major institutions: the Silver Vaults and thePublic Records Office Museum. The Silver Vaults, once an underground storage facility for the wealthy nobility and shopkeepers to safeguard their valuables, complete with guards wielding cutlasses, cudgels, and shotguns to deter would-be thieves, is now a labyrinth of fascinating underground silver shops open to the public. It appears to be one of London's best kept secrets (word to the wise: on a student budget it will likely be a browse but not buy experience!). The Public Records Office Museum, which housed medieval and early modern records, including a copy of the Domesday Book (the results of the statistical survey of England made by order of William the Conqueror in 1085, has been merged with the Historical Manuscripts Commission and become the National Archives, located in Kew, west London.While in the area, you may want to take a detour off Chancery Lane to your right into the Lincoln Inn area. You can walk around in the yards and mix with some of Britain’s law students, plus some of the general public. If you are lucky, you may see some of the barristers and judges walking in their robes and powdered wigs, the traditional uniform of the court. You will also see these if you visit any of the trials in Old Bailey criminal cases or the Royal Courts of Justice civil cases. The use of robes and wigs for those who appear in court (barristers and judges) goes back to Stuart times, when, following the restoration of the Stuart kings to the throne, wigs became the fashion for all of high society. Charles II brought them back from the court of Louis XIV, when Charles came out of exile. These large horsehair wigs are extremely expensive and often uncomfortable. One commentator has noted: “a wig can cost over 1000 pounds and weigh almost that much.” Whereas a long, shoulder-length wig is the sole prerogative of judges, barristers’ wigs are much shorter. Wigs for judges are usually provided for them; barristers must purchase their own.The British legal system is largely divided between barristers and solicitors. Until a few years ago, only a barrister could argue a case (technically called “right of audience”) before the bar (court). However, recently solicitors have been allowed right of audience through applying for the privilege. Barristers are trained to function in the courtroom situation, while solicitors are trained to deal with legal matters that arise outside the court. Usually a solicitor advises a client on legal matters. Most commonly, barristers are not approached directly by clients; rather clients are referred to them by a solicitor. Barristers are typically self-employed, solicitors most commonly work for a company.Charles II is also responsible in a way for the black robes. The judiciary had worn robes since at least the early 1300s. Initially, the color was changed according to season—green in the summer and violet in the winter, as well as red for special occasions. However, with the death of Charles II, black robes were adopted for mourning—and remained the same thereafter.The famous Lincoln’s Inn Fields is surrounded by the buildings of Lincoln's Inn. (See Lincoln’s Inn Fields, Sir John Soane’s Museum, Royal College of Surgeons’ Hunterian Museum, and the Old Curiosity Shop at the end of this walk under the heading Other Places to Visit Nearby When You Have Time).
#12 Fleet Street to Temple Bar
Return to Fleet Street and walk a short distance to the right until you come to Temple Bar.The Temple Bar (as in barrier) is a monument (not a pub) in the center of Fleet Street, and you will recognize it by the silver griffin (the official symbol of the city) on top and the statues of Queen Victoria (on the far side) and the future Edward VII (on the near)—another memorial left from the Victorian/Edwardian age. The bar officially marks the western edge of the City, and when the monarch comes to visit, she/he traditionally cannot pass Temple Bar without an invitation from the Lord Mayor. Traditionally the mayor meets the king or queen at the bar and surrenders the Pearl Sword (the City’s Sword of State) to the monarch as an indication of the loyalty of the City. In turn, the monarch returns the sword. Originally, the Temple Bar was designated by posts and chains as a “bar” or barrier. This spot has also been marked by a prison and later by an arch, used in the days of public executions as a spike for heads and quarters. The Temple Bar is far less gruesome today—depending on one’s attitudes toward Victorian statuary.To your right as you walk toward Temple Bar are the Royal Courts of Justice (commonly referred to as the Law Courts), the country’s main court for civil cases and appeals, serving a function somewhat like our Supreme Court. You are allowed to go into the Royal Courts and watch the proceeding of a trial if you desire. You will enter a major hallway as you go into the building and the individual courtrooms are to both sides of the hall. Posted signs will give you information regarding the trials in session. One of the rooms off from the main hall contains a mini-museum containing the various regalia of the judges. But don’t take the time today to visit in detail.
#13 Temple Church
After arriving at the Temple Bar and the Royal Courts of Justice, turn around, cross the road, and walk in the same direction from which you came. Locate the sign on the south side of Fleet Street (on the right as you leave the Temple Bar). Go to Temple Church.The area to your right, between Fleet Street and the Thames, is known as “the Temple,” since it was originally owned by the Knights Templars. In 1312, the Templars were suppressed by the papacy and their property given to the Hospitallers. When Henry VIII seized the church’s property, the Temple was leased to the lawyers, who were already renting the property. The lawyers formed three societies: the Inner Temple (the area inside the city boundaries), the Middle Temple (on the boundary of Temple Bar), and the Outer Temple (outside the city boundaries). The Outer Temple, however, soon dropped out of existence. Ahead of you, find a sign guiding you through the Inner Temple Gateway to the Temple Church. The Temple Church is one of the most interesting churches in London. It is circular in form like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The church is only open Tuesday–Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. It is also open on Sunday from 1:00 to 3:00 p.m., with a service at 11:15 a.m.When you come to the church, continue around to the south front where you will come to a door. If the church is open, go inside. Rather than being elevated in the fashion of most memorials, bodies (actually statues) are strewn around on the floor. Don’t fail to observe all of the strange little faces around the frieze on the wall. I think you will find this one of your most memorable experiences inside a London church.Samuel Johnson’s house is also in this area. Johnson wrote the first complete English dictionary, known as "the Dictionary" for 150 years. Johnson was an interesting character and I suggest a visit to his home when you have time.
#14 The End: Return to the BYU Centre
As you come out of the door of Temple Church, continue down the same path which you entered from Fleet Street to a pillared portico. Turn through Pump Court to a lane (Middle Temple Gateway) that leads you to the Thames. Turn left and proceed along that lane. When you reach the Victoria Embankment, which parallels the Thames, turn right and make your way along the river to the Temple tube station where you can catch a ride on the Circle Line.As you pass through Middle Temple Lane, note the doors on both sides. Here in the Temple area is the legal district of London, where one would come to hire a legal professional. These are the offices of many such individuals.
#15 Other Places to Visit Nearby When You Have Time
The most convenient way to get to Sir John Soane’s Museum is to take the tube to Holborn on the Central Line. Find Kingsway Road when you come out (if you exit onto High Holborn, turn left and Kingsway comes in from your left and walk it to Remnant. Turn left on Remnant and follow it to Lincoln’s Inn Road, where the museum is located at #13.Lincoln’s Inn Fields: Sir John Soane’s Museum, Royal College of Surgeons’ Hunterian Museum, and the Old Curiosity ShopYou may wish to spend an entire day around Lincoln’s Inn Fields relaxing and walking. During the lunch hour, especially, you will find much of the public there as well as students of Lincoln’s Inn.Sir John Soane’s Museum: 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, on the north side, is one of the most fascinating museums in London, and one that you ought to visit sometime during your sojourn in London. However, be sure you check the times of opening before going to visit.John Soane was a famous architect in London (the bank in the City was designed by him), and when he died, his house was preserved just as it was by a private act of Parliament. It contains statuary and paintings of great importance, including some of Hogarth’s most famous paintings (the Election series and Rake’s Progress). It is well worth a few hours of exploration.Hunterian Museum:On the opposite (south) side of the fields is the Royal College of Surgeons with its famous Hunterian Museum at 35–43 Lincoln Inn Fields. Those of you interested in a future in medicine may wish to visit what was once the “greatest medical museum in the world.” The initial collection was assembled by the famous surgeon, John Hunter, whose life spans much of the 1700s (and whose bust-length statue is found on one of the corners of Leicester Square, which you will see in the Theatre Walk). Hunter has been considered, along with Ambroise Paré and Joseph Lister, as one of the three greatest surgeons of all time. He is credited with taking surgery from the ranks of a “technical trade” to its present position of prestige. Unfortunately, much of the collection was destroyed in the World War II bombings. Note: The museum is closed until 2021 due to the complete renovation of the building in which it's housed. The museum itself will be updated with new exhibits and technology. Check the website for further information.Old Curiosity Shop:Those of you who are Charles Dickens’ fans may also want to visit the Old Curiosity Shop on Portsmouth Street just off the southwest corner of the fields. Though it is doubtful that this is the shop made famous by Dickens, it is a rare example of a seventeenth-century building, and well worth a visit. It is now a tourist shop and sells primarily Dickens’ memorabilia. To get to the Old Curiosity Shop, follow farther along Kingsway until you arrive at Portugal Street, again on your left, and follow it to the Old Curiosity Shop.Samuel Johnson House: Also in the area, the home of the creator of the first English dictionary is worth a visit for those with a love of language and a desire to learn the story of how one determined Englishman took on the monumental task of competing with the prescriptive French Academy—a venerable institution which, from its founding in 1635, determined and dominated French language usage—and single-handedly set the standard on which the Oxford and other succeeding dictionaries would build.
