Introduction
As the term suggests, Regent’s Park was largely the invention of the Regent who became George IV after the death of his father in 1820. Following the last onslaught of his father’s insanity in 1811, George IV virtually controlled England as the Regent in his father’s absence. An avid patron of the arts, the future George IV became responsible for much of the architectural development of London as we know it today. The Regent’s initial plan was to construct a major connecting road from Carlton House (his then-current palatial residence in central London) to a projected royal housing development and pleasure palace around Marylebone Park. The park area in the northern part of London had been newly acquired by the monarchy in 1811. Upon becoming king, George IV decided to abandon Carlton House and make Buckingham Palace into a royal residence worthy of his lifestyle, so the project was extended to connect with St. James’ Park.The architect for both Regent’s Street and Regent’s Park was John Nash, who perhaps influenced the layout of modern London as much as any other architect, Christopher Wren included. The new Regent’s Park was designed with major terraces along the eastern and northwestern sides of the park, and a great sweep of Georgian mansions on Park Crescent in the southeastern corner of the park. Within the park itself were to be individual Georgian villas hidden in groups of trees, as well as a pleasure pavilion for the Regent himself in the center of the park. Each of the villas would have the sense of total seclusion, hidden from all others by these groves. Other spaces were to be provided for a shopping center and an additional group of smaller houses. In the southwest corner of the new park, a lake was to be constructed from the existing canal to complement elegant gardens. Originally Nash intended that Regent’s Canal would run through the park, but he was persuaded that the foul language of the bargees would be offensive to the refined inhabitants of the area. Not only that, but the exhaust and noise from the barges themselves would have been annoying.The connecting road, Regent’s Street/Portland Place, was to be equally up-scale. Not only would it serve the pragmatic purpose of providing a thoroughfare from the newly designed north to the center of London, it would also serve as a line of demarcation separating, in Nash’s words, “the Streets and Squares occupied by the Nobility and Gentry” (Mayfair) from “the narrow Streets and meaner houses occupied by mechanics and the trading part of the community” (Soho). Before it was completed it included plans for Piccadilly Circus and Oxford Circus. Trafalgar Square, though not on the direct line, was also part of the larger project.Fifty-six villas were projected for the park, along with the pleasure palace for the Regent. However, in the end, because of the finances required for the completion of Buckingham Palace and other projects, only eight villas were constructed—three of which still survive along the edge of the inner circle—but no palace.The modern park, circumscribed by a four-mile Outer Circle road, contains two boating lakes (one reserved exclusively for children), several eateries, an open-air theatre, a bandstand, three playgrounds, a circular flower garden (among others) and the ZSL London Zoo in the northern end of the park.
#1 Regent's Park Station
Take the Central Line from Notting Hill Gate or Queensway to Oxford Circus. At Oxford Circus, transfer to the Bakerloo Line and go to Regent’s Park station. On exiting Regent’s Park station, turn right and walk along Marylebone Road. When you come to Park Crescent Road, turn right and walk around the crescent until you come back to Marylebone Road. Turn right and walk back along Marylebone, returning again to Park Crescent Road.The reason for the trek around Park Crescent is to introduce you to some of Nash’s finest works. The crescent was designed to be the southern—and only—entrance into the park from Portland Place, the end of Regent’s Street.
#2 Cumberland Terrace
This second time when you arrive at Park Crescent Road, turn left and cross the road into Park Square East. Move forward to the Outer Circle paved loop just outside the hedged area of the park and follow that, observing the splendid terraces on your right. Keep walking past Cumberland Gate two or three hundred yards, until you see some of the elaborate buildings with colored triangular pediments that look something like blue Wedgewood with white statues on them. These are part of Cumberland Terrace—named for Ernest, the Duke of Cumberland, a younger brother of the Regent.Built in 1828, Cumberland Terrace is the most striking of Nash’s terraces, meant to be seen from Regent’s Palace in the Park. Farther down the road, you would come upon similar structures with red pediments. During World War II, many of the terraces suffered extensive damage from the air raids and were reconstructed by Parliament following the war. This is where Wallis Simpson, an American divorcee, lived while being courted by, and who later married, Edward VIII, leading to his abdication after eleven months on the throne of England.
#3 Broad Walk
Turn around and return to Cumberland Gate, now on your right. You passed this gate just before starting the walk to Cumberland Terrace (it is not marked as Cumberland Gate). Enter the park through that gate and make your way forward until you come to Broad Walk.You will know Broad Walk by a small group of buildings with a refreshment stand to your right as you enter Broad Walk. If you need refreshing, you may make a pit stop here, but your destination is almost straight ahead, rather than over toward the refreshment stand.
#4 Boating Lake
When you arrive at Broad Walk, you will see a heavily vegetated area ahead and to your left, and an open park with trimmed grass to your right. The vegetated area is bordered by a black wrought-iron fence. Cross Broad Walk and continue on the path directly ahead of you. At the first 4-way intersection (with the soccer field to the right) take the left-hand path which leads toward a wrought iron fence. Follow the path along the wrought iron fence (just beyond which is a long narrow pond). Pass one bridge and stay on the path close to the pond until you arrive at a blue bridge on your left. Cross this bridge and then a second blue bridge. Turn again toward the left. Make your way along the waterway, which is a boating lake.Fed by the Tyburn River, this is Regent’s Park’s answer to Hyde Park’s Serpentine. Note that there are two boating lakes, one for children. As you come to the children’s lake, to your right (outside the park) is the London Central Mosque, the major Islamic mosque in London (recognizable by its minaret and golden dome). The mosque, which will accommodate 1,800 worshipers, was built in 1978 to serve the increasing number of Muslim residents and visitors to London.You are now on the opposite side from where you entered. Farther along on the right, outside the park, is Hanover Terrace, once the home of Charles Dickens (#10), Ralph Vaughan Williams (#11), H. G. Wells (#13), and Wilkie Collins (#17). The London Business School is also nearby in Sussex Place.
#5 Regent's Park Bandstand
Follow the water to the next bridge, with a sign advertizing the open-air theatre. Cross the bridge, and make your way left, watching for the bandstand that will be in front of you.In July 1982, Regent's Park bandstand was blown up by Irish Republican Army terrorists, killing seven members of the Royal Greenjackets regimental band. Concerts are still given on weekends. The buildings on the right along this path belong to Regent’s College. The major road between you and Queen Mary’s Gardens (created in 1936) is the Inner Circle. Were you to make your way left along that road you would come to the open-air theatre. (Some summer evening, if you are in London, you ought to attend a Shakespearean performance in the theatre. This really is a unique experience.)
#6 Queen Mary's Gardens
Continue on the path, cross the Inner Circle road, and enter Queen Mary’s Gardens.There is a nice refreshment stand just as you enter Queen Mary's Gardens. If you are fortunate enough to be here during the time that the gardens are in bloom (and if you enjoy flowers) these gardens are a must-see. Take some time to enjoy the flowers. Make your way to the center of the gardens, and then make your way to the right. As you make your way across the gardens you should see a black, wrought-iron fence with gilded gates.
#7 The End: Return to the BYU Centre
Go through gates, cross the Inner Circle (Queen Mary's Garden) to Chester Road, then go right on Broad Walk. Exit the park to the left and turn right on Park Square East. Turn left on Marylebone to the Great Portland Street tube station. Catch a Circle Line.The refreshment center to your left, as you get to the intersection of Chester Road and Broad Walk, is the same one you passed earlier when you first entered the park.
#8 Other Places to Visit Nearby When You Have Time
Sherlock Holmes Museum and Madame Tussaud'sThe Sherlock Holmes museum is on Baker Street. Exit the tube station and turn right. Madame Tussaud’s is on Marylebone Road. Exit the station and turn left.Two famous London museums are located south of Regent’s Park: the Sherlock Holmes Museum and Madame Tussaud’s. Both are famous tourist attractions, and both can be reached by the Baker’s Street underground (which incidentally is unusual in that it is the only underground station in London that connects five different lines. King’s Cross/St. Pancras actually heads the list by connecting six lines).Though Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes is a fictional character, the Sherlock Holmes Museum has been located near to the fictitious address of 221B Baker Street (actually the museum is between 237–239). The interior of the museum has been laid out to agree with the mythical descriptions in the novel and the fourth-floor shop sells Sherlock Holmes memorabilia.Of the two, Madame Tussaud’s is the more famous. Very few consider a trip to London complete without a visit to the famous waxworks. Beginning with death masks from famous victims of the French Revolution, with whom she had been imprisoned, Madame Tussaud offered her first London exhibition in 1835—thirty-three years after she fled France. The site of this first exhibition was not far from the present location of the museum. The present building was completely in 1884, but had to undergo much renovation after World War II bomb damage.Complete with its famous Chamber of Horrors (including Utah’s own contribution: Gary Gilmore before a firing squad), this is possibly the favorite waxwork museum in the world. The experience ends with “The Spirit of London” (1993), a “taxi cab” trip through four centuries of London history. No place else will one find such an assemblage of “famous people,” from politicians to athletes to entertainment stars—many from several centuries of time. But it is equally a famous gathering place for tourists, so plan to queue-up early in the morning.
#9 Other Places to Visit Nearby When You Have Time
Primrose Hill, Regent's Canal, and London ZooCatch the Central Line to Tottenham Court Road and transfer to the Northern Line. Take the Northern Line to Chalk Farm underground station (zone 2). When you exit the station, turn right and proceed along Adelaide Road until you come to Primrose Hill road (on your left) and walk that road to Primrose Hill. Climb to the top of the hill. There is no other view of London quite so spectacular.Work your way off the hill, moving toward London, until you come to Regent’s Park Road. Follow that until you arrive at Albert Terrace on your right (with signs pointing the way to the London Zoo); follow the Terrace until it terminates in Prince Albert Road. Cross that road and take a few minutes to examine Regent’s Canal, which you will cross over. If you would like to visit the zoo, this would be an excellent opportunity. If you decide to bypass the zoo, turn left and follow the Outer Circle Road out of the Park. This will place you near to the terraces with the red triangular pediments with their classical statuary (on your left).Catch the Circle Line at the Great Portland Road tube station to come home.North of the Park are several excellent sites to visit. I suggest that some clear day you make your way to Primrose Hill and walk down into the northern part of the park.Regent's Canal can be toured via narrowboat; plan on about 45–55 minutes for a one-way trip. If you prefer kayaking, the 8 mile journey the length of the canal takes about 90 minutes; check online for current pricing. The Canal museum gives the history of the canal and the narrowboats. It was also a 19th century ice house, so you can learn the history of the ice cream trade as well.The London Zoo has many interesting exhibits and features, including hands on interactions with some animals. The Fast Track ticket allows you to skip the queue line but it costs a bit extra. Tickets (of any kind) purchased online save about ten percent in cost.
#10 Other Places to Visit Nearby When You Have Time
Camden Town and St. John's WoodTake the underground to the respective stations: St. John’s Wood is on the Jubilee Line (Central Line from Notting Hill Gate to Bond Street, and Jubilee to St. John’s Wood) and Camden Town is on the Northern Line (Central Line from Notting Hill Gate to Tottenham Court, and Northern from there to Camden Town).Two very famous areas of London abut to Regent’s Park in the north: St. John’s Wood (northwest of the park) and Camden Town (northeast of the park). I highly recommend that you visit and walk around in each. Both are also within easy walking distance of Regent’s Park. They are very different in that St. John’s Wood is a more upscale adult-oriented segment of London, and Camden Town is known more (especially among youth) as a market town (sitting as it does on Regent’s Canal)—a place to get bargains on clothes and shoes, and to be “where the action is.”Two places you might consider visiting in St. John’s Wood are the famous crossing at Abbey Road (obtainable from Grove End Road, just outside of the tube station), made famous by the cover of one of the Beatles’ albums, picturing them crossing the street from the EMI studios where they cut several of their albums in the 1960s. Don’t be surprised if you happen on a busload of Japanese tourists visiting this “shrine.” You might also watch for exhibitions at the Saatchi Gallery of Modern Art at 98A Boundary Road, a very nice gallery constructed from a former paint factory.
