Introduction
Historical BackgroundThe Contrada of the Unicorn is connected with the guild of the goldsmiths and especially the three military societies seated in its territory: Saint George, Pantaneto, and Spadaforte. Tradition says after a military victory in 1704, the bell tower of the Saint Giovannino Church collapsed from the excessive use of the bells in celebrating. The Unicorn has won thirty-one Palio races, the first one in 1611 and more recently, in August 2007. The unicorn is also a symbol for science; traditionally, a unicorn’s horn (like that of a narwhal) was thought to hold miraculous curative powers. There is, reportedly, a narwhal horn in the contrada museum which represents the horn of a unicorn.
#1 Palazzo Piccolomini
From Piazza del Campo take Via Rinaldini (on your left looking toward Palazzo Pubblico), then turn right on Via Banchi di Sotto. On your right is the Palazzo Piccolomini (Piccolomini Palace). This is not within the Contrada of the Unicorn, but it is on the way and definitely worth a stop.The beautiful Palazzo Piccolomini is in pure Florentine Renaissance style with it’s three distinct levels, round arched windows, and a large decorative cornice (molding) on top. It's comparable to the Medici-Riccardi Palace in Florence. The Palazzo Piccolomini’s design, beginning in 1469, has been attributed to Bernardo Rossellino, one of the most important architects of the time, and built under the direction of Pier Paolo del Porrina. The owners, Giacomo and Andrea Piccolomini, were nephews of Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. On the façade are two coats of arms of the Piccolomini family and eaves decorated with other family symbols. The façade is in smooth stone with rusticated joints. This palace contains the state archives, with sixty thousand precious scrolls, certificates, codes dating from the eighth century, and old public documents from 1100 to 1800. Among one of the most precious documents is Giovanni Boccaccio’s will. In addition, the Piccolomini Palace houses a unique collection in the Museo delle Tavolette del Biccherna e Gabella(Museum of the Biccherna and Gabella Tablets), from ancient financial management firms (1258–1659). These tablets of painted wood were used as covers for accounting books. Famous artists, such as Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Francesco di Giorgio Martini, and Domenico Beccafumi, decorated some of them. At first, they represented banking activities, such as bank clerks at work, clients making a deposit, safes, etc., then they became more complex with representations of important or religious events. To visit the museum, enter the palace main entrance into the courtyard, and head for the doorway on the left side. You will see the sign: “Archivio di Stato.”
#2 Loggia del Papa
As you exit Palazzo Piccolomini, you will see the seat of the University of Siena in front of you. Walk inside this courtyard and take a look around. You'll notice many university students sitting outside the Palazzo Piccolomini with their laptops, trying to catch the university Wi-Fi. After you’ve had a look around, continue down Banchi di Sotto, which at this point becomes Via di Pantaneto, where you will see the Logge del Papa (the Pope’s Loggias) on your right.Pope Pius II commissioned the Loggia del Papa in honor of his numerous family, which was originally from Pienza in the Siena territory and is still united under a local Consorteria (Consortium), even though its members are now scattered around the world. This noble family gained remarkable power and influence as bankers of the Papal Court in Rome from the twelfth century on. The loggias were built in 1462 by Antonio Federighi and have three wide and elegant round Renaissance arches (not pointed gothis arches)in travertine, supported by three Corinthian columns. On the lintel, appear the words Pius II Pont Max Gentilibus Sui Piccolomineis (Pius II, Highest Pontiff, to his Piccolomini family). The loggias were part of a wider urban developmental project, which was destined to include the Piccolomini Palace and a section of the city between Via di Pantaneto and Piazza del Campo. You may have noticed, Pope Pius II (Piccolomini) was very interested in the classical Renaissance style of architecture, and in urban planning, in this new style of the time. His hometown, nearby Pienza, is a renaissance jewel of classical architecture he helped design. You should visit it if you get a chance.
#3 Fontana della Contrada Leocorno
As you keep walking down Via di Pantaneto, there is a baptismal fountain for the contrada. See if you can find it.The fontana della Contrada Leocorno is the work of architect Carlo Nepi. In 1997, the existing fountain was adapted for contrada use with the addition of two unicorn heads to supply the water for baptisms. (If you need help in finding it, you will see it on your right between numbers 12 and 14.)
#4 Chiesa di San Giovannino della Staffa
Continue down Via di Pantaneto and turn left on Via di Follonica. You will end up in a little square, Piazza Virgilio Grassi, where, at the number 6, is the contrada’s historic sede (seat or headquarters), chiesa (church), and museo (museum).The Chiesa di San Giovannino della Staffa (also known as San Giovannino in Pantaneto) is the oratory of the Unicorn Contrada. Legend says there was an ancient temple of Jupiter on this site. Foremed in the 1500, the Saint John military company gathered in this small Romanesque church. It is not certain exactly when the church was built, but it is first mentioned in 1271, and Baldassarre Peruzzi and Gian Battista Pelori are mentioned as probable architects. The façade was built in 1537 and completed in 1735. It is made of brick with light travertine highlighting the baseboards, capitals, and pedestals. This church has a rectangular shape and contains a rich altar of polychrome marbles. There are beautiful paintings by Rutilio Manetti, most of them showing events in the life of Saint John the Baptist. Of particular mention is a depiction of the Madonna della Pace (Madonna of Peace) by Francesco di Vannuccio, from the late 1300s. During WWII, citizens of this contrada went and prayed in front of this painting during the most dangerous times.On the right of the oratory, a little alley leads to the historic Fonte di Follonica (Follonica’s Fountain), which was one of the most beautiful Sienese medieval fountains. Unfortunately, nowadays it is partially buried and in ruins on private, gated property, but if you notice any local people around this alley, you may ask them if you may visit the fountain. BYU faculty have tried to see this fountain for some time. Extra credit points to the student who can bring back photos of it!The sede della Contrada del Leocorno (seat or headquarters of the Unicorn contrada) and its museum are adjacent to the church at number 6. You will find the history of the Unicorn and the current contrada activities, some Palio banners, six paintings on arts and crafts, etc. An ancient congregation of artists also met here, and today this tradition is still followed, with this contrada buying works of modern artists, such as Pozzi, Decca, and Fromanger. A small bell is also kept in this museum. A popular legend says this is the original bell from a Florentine war wagon captured at the battle of Montaperti in 1260. A visit to the museum is by appointment only.
#5 Chiesa di San Giorgio
Return to Via di Pantaneto, and notice this side of the city is full of local commerce and university students and not too many tourists. You will find a variety of restaurants, shops, markets, and other interesting places. Recently, there has been an immigrant influx into the city and some of these populations have located here. Look for falafel shops, Chinese food, and Indian restaurants. Keep walking on Via di Pantaneto, and on your left you will see the Chiesa di San Giorgio (Saint George’s Church).Chiesa di San Giorgio was built on a previous structure originally built in 1081. It was dedicated to Saint George, a “warrior” saint, and the patron of the Sienese cavalry during the battle of Montaperti in 1260. The bell tower in Romanesque/Gothic style and is comprised of thirty-eight little windows along all four sides. This is a reminder of the number of the Sienese military companies that participated in that battle. In 1738, the architect Pietro Cremoni completed the church in baroque style. On the travertine façade, there are four giant columns and the coat of arms of Cardinal Anton Felice Zondadari, who initiated the renovation of the church. Inside, there is a polychrome monument in memory of the painter Francesco Vanni, and several paintings by members of the Vanni family.Cardinal Zondadari and his brother, Siena’s Archbishop Alessandro Zondadari, are buried at the sides of the main altar. In 1585, Saint George’s ceased to be a parish and hosted a religious association founded by Matteo Guerra, a devotee of the Sacro Chiodo di Cristo (Christ’s Sacred Nail), a relic kept in the Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala (Hospital of Saint Mary of the Ladder). Guerra’s association performed services in behalf of the poor and the ill. When Guerra’s association was disbanded, the archbishop made the church a diocesan seminary until 1856. The church is open weekdays and as it is a small congregation, and they probably would not mind a quiet visitor.You may want to stop in. At number 121 is Forno Sclavi, where you can buy good bread, pizza, and other goodies. Across the street at number 138 is a small restaurant/pizzeria, Carla e Franca. At number 152 is Gelateria Nice, highly rated for its homemade gelato if you’re in need of refreshment. And if you need a super (mini) market, see Conad City at numbers 139–43.Proceed ahead to the archway, an entrance to Siena through the ancient walls, Porta San Maurizio (Saint Maurice’s Gate). Via di Pantaneto is part of the medieval French pilgrimage itinerary, “Via Francigena” from northern Europe directly to Rome. Many pilgrims used those roads to reach the holy relics of Rome and forgiveness through the penace of pilgrimage. If you continued farther down this road, you would eventually arrive at Porta Romana (the Gate to Rome) but don't go to the gate today.
#6 Via degli Orefici
Retrace your steps on Via di Pantaneto and turn left on the first street, Via Pagliaresi, also known as Cane e Gatto. On the first small arched alley on your right, Via degli Orefici, you will enter a hidden, private street of Siena.Passing through the narrow Via degli Orefici, notice the arches and timbered ceilings beneath. Notice the number of potted and hanging plants; this is the garden of several families who live here. Listen to the sounds of everyday life: pots and pans, dishes set on the table, showers running, toilets flushing. Smell the aroma of homemade food cooking. Discretely glance in windows and doors without staring. Watch for shutters opening and laundry dripping. This is a private place. Approach it in silence and privacy as if you were standing on a stranger’s front porch or in their backyard. If you pass someone here, greet him or her, as you are standing in their home.
#7 Ristorante Gallo Nero
Retrace your steps back to Via Pagliaresi. Turn right and turn right again until you are on Via San Martino, which later becomes Via del Porrione.On Via del Porrione, at numbers 65–67, is the Ristorante Gallo Nero, a place that will prepare for you medieval and other historical recipes. The prices are good, and their cheese plate, a ribollita (bean stew cooked with vegetables and bread), and pici pasta with wild boar meat are delicious.
#8 Arciconfraternita di Misericordia di Siena
At Via del Porrione 49 is the headquarters of the Arciconfraternita di Misericordia di Siena (Siena’s Brotherhood of Mercy). Enter the covered portico (porch). You may enter their chapel through the door on the right.The Arciconfraternita di Misericordia di Siena is formed by a group of volunteers who give of their time and services to those in need. They perform social work for the poor, the disabled, the elderly, or anyone else who might need their services. They also assist during times of natural calamities; in medical offices and ambulances; in emergencies; with social and recreational activities in rest homes; with fund-raising activities in behalf of the poor; with funeral support services; with social, didactic, and rehabilitation services for prison inmates; and with mental illness institutions. BYU students have done internships here through the BYU Italy Internship Program.According to tradition, the Blessed Andrea Gallerani founded the Misericordia as a hospital and a charitable institution in 1250. Later, the Umiliati Friars (Humbled Friars) managed this organization with the support of the city’s management. In 1408, the Misericordia’s Friars were abolished, and their properties were partially transferred to the Spedale di S. Maria della Scala(Hospital of Saint Mary of the Ladder) and partially to the public University of Siena. At the end of the fourteenth century, another similar charitable institution was formed, the Saint Anthony the Abbot Company, which later added a hospital and a small oratory, devoted to Saint Mary of the Star, or Saint Mary of Mercy, hence the modern name. The Misericordia’s first known statute dates to 1526. After centuries of social service, in 1852 this society received additional public recognitions and privileges together with the new title of Arciconfraternita (Arch-brotherhood). Today, it continues its wonderful work, and you may visit their museum at their headquarters. There you will find more information about the history of the Misericordia, ancient artifacts, and important documents. For entrance to the museum, please set up a group appointment.
#9 Pizzeria San Martino
As you continue on Via del Porrione toward Piazza del Campo, on your left at number 64 is Pizzeria San Martino.Pizzeria San Martino is a neighborhood pizzeria where the locals come, especially in the evening. When the pizza is coming out of the oven, you will sometimes have a hard time jostling for a place in line as the local policemen, teenagers, and families try to get a piece. The fresh mozzarella con rucola is delicious!Across the street at number 43, you’ll find the Botega Brocchi, a metal working forge. The owner, Laura Brocchi, comes from a long line of metal artisans in the city of Siena. If you would like to purchase a beautifully forged door knocker or other item created by Laura, you can find her intriguing shop next door at number 41.
#10 Chiesa di San Martino
On your right is Chiesa di San Martino (Saint Martin’s Church), by the Pope’s Loggia that you saw at the beginning of this walk.Chiesa di San Martino was built prior to the twelfth century, and remodeled in 1537 by Giovan Battista Pelori. The façade was completed in 1613 by Giovanni Fontana; the bell tower in 1738. As in most Sienese churches, there is only one central nave and an altar in polychromic marble. Of particular mention is a 1640 masterpiece painting by Guido Reni, the Circoncisione di Gesù (Jesus’ Circumcision) located in one of the chapels to the right of the nave. There is also a beautiful 1526 painting by Giovanni di Lorenzo, depicting the Virgin protecting Siena during the battle of Camollia.
The End
Continue on Via del Porrione, and you will end up back in Piazza del Campo, the beginning and end of this walk.
