Introduction
Historical BackgroundThe men from the military companies of Saint Peter in Banchi and Saint Vigilio organized this contrada. Tradition says the Owl Contrada gets its name from a Roman temple dedicated to Minerva and built within its territory. It is also said there was a statue of the goddess holding in her hands an owl, the animal sacred to her, thus the name of this contrada. Minerva was the goddess of war and wisdom, and the owl symbolizes “cunning.”Among famous “Owls” of the contrada is the poet Cecco Angiolieri (circa 1260–1313), born into a wealthy family not too far from the road that today bears his name. About 110 sonnets are attributed to him and he’s remembered for his flamboyant, realistic, and even sacrilegious expressions. His most famous poem is titled “S’i fossi foco, arderei ‘l mondo” (If I were fire, I would burn the earth). He loved “la donna, la taverna e ‘l dado” (women, taverns, and dice).The famous Tolomei family also lived in this contrada. Legend states that Pia dei Tolomei (thirteenth century) was married to Nello dei Pannocchieschi who, wanting to marry his lover, first charged his wife with infidelity, then imprisoned her in his castle in nearby Maremma, and finally had her killed. Her story is mentioned by Dante in Purgatory V. Another Sienese Owl was remembered by Dante in Purgatory XIII: Pier Pettinaio (1180–1289), a Franciscan monk who sold combs and was famous for his honesty and holy devotion. He was considered a saint and honored as such by the people of Siena. He was 109 years old when he died.The Council of the Rulers of the Republic of Siena met in Saint Christopher’s Church in this contrada, and the Council of the People met in the square in front of the church in piazza Tolomei. In that piazza, after the victory of Montaperti against Florence in 1260, the citizens of Siena erected a pillar with a she-wolf on top to remember the event. In fact, a member of the Owl, Giovanni Ugurgieri, died in that battle after having fought with valor, leading his men and his city to victory. As a matter of fact, the Owl has always been important in Siena’s government and earned the title of “Prioress,” because it was the first contrada in the nineteenth century to host the first meeting of the Contrade Magistrates, an administrative body composed by the Priors of all the seventeen contrade. They deliberated on matters and laws of common interest.Through the years, the Owl won several Palios and a few cappotti, that is, both the Palios of July and August in 1761and in 1778 (the first contrada to achieve this honor). Finally, Giovanni Caselli (1815–91) was born in this contrada. He was the inventor of the pantelegraph, or all-purpose telegraph, the grandfather of the modern fax machine. This device could send static images and was used in France in the second half of the 1800s. The Owl has truly been an important and recognized contrada in the city of Siena.
#1 Loggia della Mercanzia
In the Piazza del Campo, stand looking at the Fonte Gaia. Just behind the fountain to the right is an arched stairway, Vicolo di San Pietro. Go up this set of stairs and as you exit the vicolo, on your left you will find the Loggia della Mercanzia (the Merchants’ Loggia).Loggia della Mercanzia is also called Saint Paul’s Loggia and is located in the so-called “Cross of Torments,” an intersection among three main and elegant Sienese streets: Banchi di Sopra, Banchi di Sotto, and Via di Città. These roads were instrumental in the economic and social development of the city, since the Via Francigena, the pilgrims’ route to Rome, runs along Banchi di Sopra and Banchi di Sotto. 1ABetween 1417 and 1445, architects Sano di Matteo and Pietro del Minella worked on the loggia, which displays a style that has both Gothic and Renaissance elements. After the end of the Sienese Republic, traveling salesmen used the loggia during the day and tramps and prostitutes used it at night. However, since 1657 it has been the seat of the association of the Circle of the United Citizens and used as a meeting place for the Sienese nobles to play cards and spend the night. Today, you will see three arches resting on beautiful piers decorated with statues. Sculptor Vecchietta (Lorenzo di Pietro) is the artist of Saint Peter and Paul, and Antonio Federighi sculpted the three ancient patron saints of Siena: Saint Savino, Saint Ansano, and Saint Vittore. On the sides, there are two bas-reliefs depicting, on the right, famous figures from ancient Roman history by Antonio Federighi, and on the left, the Cardinal Virtues by sculptor Urbano da Cortona. The upper section of the structure was completed between 1765 and 1766. The ceiling is decorated with stuccos. Inside, on the top floor, there is a beautiful meeting hall. This loggia, at first dedicated to merchants, testifies of the important role that trade and business played throughout Siena’s history. In the salon just inside the loggia, you'll find some of the finest seats in all of Siena for viewing the Palio.
#2 Il corso
As you leave, stand with your back to the loggia. On your left is Via di Città, one of the most elegant streets in town. There are many gelaterie, pizzerie, cafes, and posh stores, like Swarovsky, Boggi, and Furla. Walk up the street to your right on Via Banchi di Sopra, the corso of Siena.The main corso in an Italian town is the street where everyone goes for an evening stroll, to do some shopping, or mainly to meet friends and socialize. “Il corso” is usually near the main square of the town, (as it is here, near Piazza del Campo) and, along with the square, is reminiscent of the ancient Roman Forum— the meeting place, the heart of public and economic life of a city. Here on VIa Banchi di Sopra, you will find both tourists and locals, taking pictures and looking around or animatedly talking with each other. Here is where the Sienese come to wear their best clothes and show them off. In fact, right on the corner with Banchi di Sotto, there is a Versace store.
#3 Nannini
A little farther at number 15, there is a historic palace named after the Fani and Mignanelli families. In the entry way is a flower vendor. A little farther up the street and across from here at number 24 is Nannini, the most famous bakery, gelato, pastry, and confectioner’s shop in town. It is maybe more pricey than others, but it is worth it. You will find yourself staring at the artistically decorated windows which change with the seasons and that display their best cookies and cakes.Guido Nannini opened his first shop in 1911. Later, he expanded and opened Nannini in other locations, but this is the traditional shop passed down through this family for generations. There are comfortable rooms, and the furnishings are elegant. You may come here with friends and enjoy the local specialties. Their most famous products include panpepato, panforte, ricciarelli, and cantucci.Siena has a long tradition of bakers. In the early 1200s, the Sienese already had a panforte (strong bread), which was somewhat acidic in flavor. However, they wanted to make it a little sweeter, and added honey to make a panmielato (honey bread). Later, Nicolò Salimbeni, member of the powerful Salimbeni family, a rich man, who liked to eat and have fun, thought to add spices and pepper to this bread. In fact, he founded the Brigata Spendereccia Senese (The Sienese Spendthrift Company), a group of people who lead a life of gluttony and personal enjoyment. This occurred in the time when new spices were coming to Italy from Asia, and many wanted to experiment with different tastes.Another legend says the locals furnished the nearby Moncelso Monastery with such spices. One day, all the different containers broke, and the ingredients were mixed up. Suor Leta, one of the nuns, did not want to waste all those good ingredients, and cooked together flour, cloves, pepper, almonds, sugar, cinnamon, and coriander. She then added some honey, so the mixture would not stick to the pot. Later, this recipe was again called panforte (its ancient name), and in the eighteenth century they added chocolate to it. One famous bakery product of Siena is ricciarelli, earlier known as morselletti (little bites). They date back to the 1400s and are made of marzipan. Another typical cookie of the Chianti area are the cantucci, small hard cookies flavored with almonds and/or chocolate. These are the classic biscotti (twice-cooked sweet biscuits) that are eaten as a dessert at the end of a meal, dipped in a vinsanto or (sweet wine). For BYU students, dipping cantucci in cioccolata calda or cappuccino d’orzo is a delicious treat.
#4 Pietro Pettinaio
Now, if you can still walk after having tasted all those delicacies, keep walking up Via Banchi di Sopra. On your left, take a short detour in a little alley, Vicolo del Pettinaio where, at number 7, there is a good restaurant.The chef at Ristorante Guido uses the flavors of Siena in delicious innovative recipes with truffles, fresh mushrooms, and other local products. Here you will also find one of the best Florentine steaks and excellent homemade pastas.On the wall above the street, at number 5, is a plaque remembering Pietro Pettinaio. An Italian Roman Catholic, Pettinaio was a combmaker who (after the death of his wife) later became a member of the Third Order of Saint Francis. A humble and charitable man, he donated his wealth to the Franciscans, eventually giving up his home to live and serve among and with them. Given the title “Blessed,” Pettinaio was regarded as both a miracle worker and a saint in his lifetime; he was officially recognized as such by Pope Pius VII in 1802. Adored by the people, his gravesite became a place of miracles to which many faithful made pilgrimage, and a shrine was placed there in 1326. An annual feast was established in his honor in 1329 to remember the many sacrifices and good works wrought by this humble servant of God. The character of Pier the Comb-seller, in Dante’s Divina Comedia (Divine Comedy), Canto XIII, is thought to be a tribute to Pettinaio from the author.
#5 Piazza Tolomei
Return to Via Banchi di Sopra and turn left. You will end up in Piazza Tolomei, where there are a couple of bancomats (ATMs).In the Piazza Tolomei, you’ll often find one or two mimes dressed and painted in gold or white who invite tourists to take a photo with them. People have gathered to talk and visit here for centuries. In this very square, the citizens of Siena decided to end Florence’s abuse against the city, and you can still see the monument that remembers the victory of Montaperti in 1260: a column topped with a she-wolf and two twins. In fact, according to an old legend, Senio and Aschio, who left Rome to flee from their uncle Romulus, had stolen the statue of a she-wolf and brought it with them to the Tuscan hills, where they founded Siena. Senio escaped riding a white horse, while Aschio was on a black horse: now the colors black and white are the symbol of the city. During the Palio days, there are two flags on top of this column: one for the Terzo di Camollia, one for the Owl Contrada.
#6 Tolomei Palace
Stand in the piazza with your back to the church. Immediately in front of you is the strikingly gothic Tolomei Palace.Tolomeo and Jacopo di Rinaldo Tolomei had their residence built here between 1205 and 1208. Tolomei Palace, one of the oldest private residences in Siena, is an elegant structure in gray stone, damaged and rebuilt a few times through the years. In any case, today it is still one of the most beautiful buildings in town in the Gothic style, with two orders of double windows on the top floors and over a huge portal. The Tolomei family was one of the oldest, richest, and most powerful families in Siena. They were bankers and moneychangers belonging to the Guelph party. Legend says they had descended from the Egyptian pharaohs of the Ptolemy family, but history says they came to Italy with Charlemagne. They were fierce enemies of another noble Sienese family, the Salimbeni (whose piazza is just up the street). Tradition says Nello Pannocchieschi (see Eagle Contrada) was the husband of the famous Pia dei Tolomei, remembered by Dante in his Divine Comedy, Purgatory V. According to Dante’s account and Sienese legends, Pia was killed by her husband in their country castle in Maremma because he wanted to marry another woman. She asks Dante to pray for her, so her soul could quickly fly to Paradise. On the right wall of the palace, there is a plaque in remembrance of her sad story and Dante’s verses: “Siena mi fe’, disfecemi Maremma” (Siena gave me birth; Maremma gave me death). Today this palace is the home of a bank and several offices.Across from Tolomei Palace stands Chiesa di San Christoforo (Church of Saint Christopher). This church is even older than the palace, dating to 1087. At the end of the 1500s, the church was enlarged, making the square smaller until 1798, when an earthquake destroyed a wing of the church. Originally, the façade was white and black marble, while the new one is in terracotta, with four neoclassical columns and two statues of saints by sculptor Giuseppe Silini (Saints Bernardo and Nera Tolomei, in 1802). The Tolomei coat of arms was transported here from the family’s villa in Fontebecci. Inside, there are paintings by Girolamo del Pacchia (Madonna with Child and Saints Luca and Romualdo) and a fresco by Martino di Bartolomeo (Pietà and Symbols from Christ’s Passion). The small church cloister is in Romanesque style. Tradition says the poet Cecco Angiolieri is buried here. From the year 1100, the Republic’s General Council met here, and its meetings were announced by the church’s bell. The Owl Contrada used this church as its oratory from 1786 to 1945.
#7 Hotel la Toscana
Now take Via Cecco Angiolieri, on the right side of Saint Christopher’s Church.On this street at number 12 is Hotel la Toscana, located in the Rinuccini Palace, built in 1248 in Gothic style. It has a tower and beautiful frescoes in the entrance and on the fifth floor. On the top is a terrace that offers a beautiful view of the city.At number 19 is the restaurant Taverna di Cecco. This is a small restaurant, but their entrees are excellent. It is all about home cooking, and the ambience is relaxing and welcoming.
#8 Oratorio Contrada Prioria della Civetta
As you keep walking on Via Cecco Angiolieri, you will see on your left the Oratorio Contra Prioria della Civetta between numbers 39–41.The Oratorio Contrada Prioria della Civetta is situated at the base of an old tower. You may be interested to know the Owl was the last contrada to find a place for its church—in 1945. Inside, there are four small statues in cartapesta (fine art paper maché) and silver (eighteenth century), two silver chalices (seventeenth century), and a reliquary in carved wood (eighteenth century). You will also see a painting by Vincenzo Rustici (Madonna with Child and Saints Carlo Borromeo and Vincenzo Gonzaga, from the late 1500s), and other archaeological findings from a well discovered in the basement of their museum.Take note of theunusual cartapesta statues, considered high art in some parts of Italy. Artisans use a variety of amazing techniques to produce the life-like figures.
#9 Castellare degli Ugurgieri
Continue on to an alley on your left, Vicolo del Castellare, that leads to a little square in the heart of the Owl Contrada. Walk into the little piazza surrounded by high, vertical buildings.On the north side, at number 6, is the entrance to the stalla (horse stable) della contrada. On the east side is the official sede (seat or Headquarters) of the contrada, with the museo and meeting rooms. On the west side is the sacristy and the back of the oratory. On the right, at the entrance to the square, is the contrada fountain.The contrada fountain, created by Fabio Belleschi, was unveiled in 2005 and can be seen through Vicolo del Castellare all the way from Via Cecco Angiolieri. It portrays a life-size owl that “flies” around the square on top of a long, slender branch. You may not notice it at first, because you might mistake the base for a utility pole. On this unusual fountain, there is a trickle of water that drips down the grooves of the fountain. There is just enough water to perform lay baptisms for contrada members.At number 3 is Castellare degli Ugurgieri, the seat of the Owl. In the past, Siena had many Castellari (Castles or Towers) belonging to the richest and most noble families. Such buildings protected them from enemy families who lived in the same city; they were like little fortresses. These families were originally country feudal lords who later moved into the city and took on different trades, becoming merchants or bankers and organizing themselves in different organizations or fraternities. The Ugurgieri family was original from the Arbia Valley, and owned many lands, from the Chianti Mountains to the Amiata Mountain and the Maremma lands. They were very loyal and valiant citizens of Siena, such as Giovanni Ugurgieri, who died in 1260 during the battle of Montaperti against Florence. On a corner of this castellare is a plaque remembering his valor and bravery. This palace, tall and imposing and nowadays a lone example of its kind, was built in the early 1200s in stone and brick, with big and beautiful double Gothic arches.The museo della contrada civetta is also located within this castellare at number 2, with the Palio banners and the Masgalani the contrada won along the years. A Masgalano is a prestigious award given to the contrada that excels among all others during the historical parades that precede the Palio race. It means “most elegant,” from the Spanish words mas (most) and galante (elegant). Historically, a silver plate or tray, now it is more like a small sculpture. Traditionally, being awarded a Masgalano was as prestigious as receiving a Palio. Also in this museum are sacred vestments, ancient clothing, silver objects, majolica pieces, and other works of art belonging to the contrada. In 1982, the members of the contrada discovered a well built in the fourteenth century and located in the vault of their museum.
#10 Via delle Donzelle
Now retrace your steps back to Via Cecco Angiolieri, cross it, and head straight along Via delle Donzelle. This is a typical medieval street in the heart of Siena, winding down between two rows of buildings. On this street are two small hotels.Albergo Tre Donzelle is located at number 5, just a few steps from Piazza del Campo, in the social and historical center of Siena. It is only a one-star accommodation, but is housed in a historical building dating from the fifteenth century with spacious, comfortable, and clean rooms. Some rooms share a bathroom; others have a private bath. Lots of sunshine comes in through the windows and you can see the beautiful roofs of Siena.
#11 Logge della Mercanzia
As you keep walking along Via delle Donzelle, you will reach a T: this is Via Banchi di Sotto, one of the most fashionable streets in town. Turn right, and enjoy the many shops both right and left of you. As Banchi di Sotto curves to the left, You will be at the Logge della Mercanzia, where we began our walk.Behind the building on your left is Piazza del Campo. Enjoy a leisurely stroll until you see on your left the end of your walk, the Logge della Mercanzia. This stately building, designed by both Sano di Matteo and Pietro del Minella, and built in two phases between 1417 and 1428, is a mix of both Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. Columns topped with beautifully sculptured capitals, further enhanced during the 17th century with tabernacles displaying 15th century statues by artists Vecchietta and Antonio Federighi, support the triple-arched loggia. Marble sculpted reliefs complete the historic design. Take some time to notice and appreciate the medieval flavor and attention to detail found in this Sienese architectural masterpiece. For a few moments, allow it to transport you via your imagination back to a time when this part of the city flourished with mercantilism.
The End
After examining and absorbing the history preserved in the lLogge della Mercanzia, walk back to the Piazza del Campo for refreshment or people watching, or return to your lodgings.
