Introduction
Historical BackgroundThis contrada chose the she-wolf as its symbol, because of an exchange of favors with the city of Rome and the hospitality they gave to Roman legionnaires. In fact, the she-wolf symbolizes faithfulness. Close ties have always existed between Rome and Siena, because legend says that Siena was built by Senio and Ascanio (or Aschio), twin children of Remus, who was also a twin brother of Romulus. After the fight between Romulus and Remus during the foundation of Rome, one legend said Remus’ twin children flew north to Tuscany, one on a black horse and the other on a white horse, and founded Siena on the hills. That is why Siena’s traditional colors are black and white.The seat of this contrada is in Via Vallerozzi, that is, a street of rough or uneducated people, the “rozzi,” a group from the town of Arezzo who lived in this valley. Anciently, shepherds and their flocks occupied this area. Local women used to walk down the steps on this street to Pian d’Ovile (valley of the sheep fold) and reach the Fontenuova (new fountain) where they could wash their clothes.It was in this territory that the famous painter Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, nicknamed “Sodoma” lived. He was born in a modest family in Vercelli in 1477, and since the beginning of his career as an artist, he studied Leonardo da Vinci’s paintings. He worked with gray and light blue shades in an effort to personalize Leonardo’s shading techniques. At the beginning of the 1500s, he moved to Milan and then to Siena, where he got married and established his residence. He visited Rome and was influenced by Pinturicchio and, later, by Raphael. When he died in Siena in 1549, many considered him one of the major painters of the sixteenth century. In his biography, Vasari described him as an odd individual, one who dressed unconventionally and kept many different animals at home. He earned two nicknames, “Sodoma” for his immoral life and “Mattaccio” (the Crazy One) for his eccentricity.Some legends say Sapia Salvani died in this contrada. She was married to Ghinibaldo Saracini and was against the Sienese Ghibellines. When Siena fought against Florence in the Battle of Colle, she prayed for Florence to win and was happy that her nephew Provenzano Salvani died in that battle. Dante mentions her in Purgatory XIII among the envious. She was killed by a Sienese hired killer in Colle Val d’Elsa. However, she was also a pious woman who founded a hospice for pilgrims along the French pilgrimage trail. Her life is remembered on a plaque inscribed with Dante’s verses in Via Vallerozzi.
#1 Sallustio Bandini
As you begin in Piazza Salimbeni, you will see in the square a statue of Sallustio Bandini sculpted by Tito Sarocchi.Sallustio Bandini (1677–1760), was a religious leader, academic scholar, theologian, and economist. He graduated in jurisprudence and philosophy at the University of Siena, where he was a lecturer in canon law. He also held important ecclesiastical offices. He was very fond of education and collected a great library with many books and manuscripts that he donated to the city of Siena near the end of his life, thus founding the Library of Siena, the Biblioteca Comunale, in 1759 in the Panther contrada.
#2 Palazzo Salimbeni
Before you start your walk from Salimbeni square, you may want to stop for a while and admire the three beautiful buildings that surround it.The most important building is immediately in front of you, the Palazzo Salimbeni or Castle, owned by the powerful and noble Salimbeni family of Siena. It is now the headquarters of Monte dei Paschi di Siena, which is considered the oldest bank in continuous existence (it has operated since 1472) and a major factor in Sienese economy. The institution began as a “pious” association to help poor citizens. In the following two centuries, it became more like a bank, also overseeing legislature governing agriculture and grasslands (paschi or pastures) in the Maremma region, which was under Siena’s jurisdiction. In the early 1900s, the bank extended beyond Tuscany into other Italian regions. The present palace was expanded in the fourteenth century, probably from a previous building dating to the 1200s; it has also been restored several times since. Inside the bank is a rich collection of paintings and works of art, which may be seen by appointment.
#3 Via dei Montanini
As you face the Salimbeni Palace, turn to your left and walk along Via dei Montanini. As you go straight, everything on your right until Via del Cavallerizzo (which is on your left) is within the She-wolf Contrada, while on your left is the Dragon Contrada.There is great shopping all along the Via dei Montanini. In fact, on this street you will find jewelry stores, toy stores, etc. You can go for a shopping spree if you like.The Hotel Albergo Cannon d’Oro is at number 28. This place is clean and hospitable, but it does not have air conditioning. This hotel is centrally located and, if you need to keep your window open at night, it might be a little noisy, so bring along earplugs if you plan to stop here in the summer.
#4 Piazza del Sale
Now turn right on Via di Vallerozzi. Turn left into Piazza Bargagli Petrucci, which will then become Via della Stufa Secca. In this way, you will remain within the She-wolf Contrada. Walk along Via della Stufa Secca. On your right, you will spy glimpses of the Tuscan countryside as you look between the buildings and past the gates as you continue down the street. Keep walking on Via della Stufa Secca until you reach Via Garibaldi and turn right on Piazza del Sale.Piazza del Sale is a main bus hub for the city. Many bus routes stop here, and you can catch a bus to and from the train station, or to Rome, from here.
#5 Caper berries
From Piazza del Sale, continue downhill on Via Garibaldi, take time to notice the high wall on the left of the street and what might appear to be weeds growing through the cracks in the wall.What first appears as weeds are actually caper plants. Caper (capperi) grow naturally in Italy, are harvested and pickled in brine, and then used in many dishes ranging from pizza to chicken. Perhaps you have (or will) try a dish with the small pungent caper berries while in Siena. You may recognize the salty, briney flavor they add to various recipes.Continuing, you’ll see on your right at number 46 a beautiful house with a splendid garden; this is La Coperta Ricamata, a highly-rated and well-known bed and breakfast. It is close to a bus stop, its bedrooms have great views, and it’s surrounded by a beautiful garden. Rated 4.5 stars out of 5, its hostess Luciana is a very proud member of the Lupa Contrada. If you cannot afford the stay, you can walk through the garden to go and speak with Luciana for a real taste of the Lupa Contrada. Translated, the name of the B&B means “The Embroidered Blanket,” a metaphor for a starry night sky that is the backdrop to a serenading lover beneath his beloved’s balcony. If you stay here, you will experience Siena’s magic flavor.At number 47–51, there is a beautiful palace with mullioned windows and three lights. Now this houses a real estate office, so you may want to stop here if you fancy buying a house in Siena. On the plaque upon the wall, you can read the important legacy of this place. In the 1200s, a group of Sienese youth gathered to eat and be merry in this house for twenty consecutive months, spending over 200,000 gold florins (over two million dollars). In his Divine Comedy, Dante chastised them: “e tra’ne la brigata in che disperse Caccia d’Ascian la vigna e la gran fronda….” Or in translation, “Caccia d’Asciano company, with whom he squandered vineyards and tilled fields…” (Inferno XXIX, vv. 130–131).1Another highly rated hotel, if you are considering a stay within the Lupa Contrada, is the Hotel Minerva found at Via Garibaldi 72. All rooms offer modern furnishings, air conditioning, and a nice view of the city.1. Alighieri, Dante. The Divine Comedy of Dante Alighieri: Inferno. Trad. Allen Mandelbaum. New York: Bantam Dell, 1981.
#6 She-Wolf statues
Keep walking a little farther and you will see a break in the city walls.As you approach the break in the wall, notice the two statues of “She-Wolf” with the twins. The Latter-day Saint meetinghouse was not far from here.
#7 Latter-day Saint meetinghouse
Cross the street and keep walking down it as Viale Don Giovanni Minzoni curves to the left, it becomes Viale Giuseppe Mazzini.On your left at number 55 is La Gelateria di Siena. To the right of the gelateria walk through the alleyway, and there you will see several low buildings (including Anganelli, a baby shop) in a modern alley. The Latter-day Saint congregation met in a rented building right here in front of the preschool playground. See if you can find where the church sign hung and where the former entrance was. Perhaps at some future time, a congregation of saints will meet here again (and should you revisit Siena, you’ll know where to go).
#8 Fontenuova d'Ovile
Retrace your steps, leaving the alleyway and returning to the opening in the city wall (with the she-wolf statues). Be advised that there are some old-fashioned (but still used) outdoor urinals to your right. Divert your attention to something on your left so you do not have to see more than you bargained for. Back on Via Garibaldi, you will backtrack a little bit, passing the Hotel Minerva on your left, until you reach the first street on your left. This is the Via del Pian d’Ovile, where you will continue your walk.As you descend Via del Pian d’Ovile, enjoy the view of housetops, trees, and gardens that you will get along the way on your left. Farther away, you may see Saint Francis’ church. Anciently, shepherds lived here with their flocks. Ovile in Italian means “sheepfold.” As you wander down this curving road, notice the rosmarino (rosemary) draping luxuriantly over the stone wall to your right. Go over and pick a little bit so you can enjoy the aroma on your way.At number 29 is the Fontenuova d’Ovile, named “The New Fountain” to distinguish it from the old one that is situated just outside the Ovile City Gate. Go down the ramp to see the front of the fountain. In 1295, the new fountain was placed here because the underground city aqueduct ended up here. A whole commission of architects and artists contributed to this decision, among them, Duccio di Buoninsegna and Giovanni Pisano. The fountain, built by Camaino de Crescentino and Sozzo di Rustichino, took about five years and was finished in 1303. Many activities and trades flourished here because of its placement. You will recognize it for its massive and beautiful structure, with two huge ogival arches. Inside, the fountain is covered by a cross vault that protected it from bad weather. In the eighteenth century, a small apartment was built on top of the fountain, called the “painter’s home.” This is one of the seven fountains in Siena that still keep their original structure. Do not miss it!
#9 Fontana del Contrada della Lupa
In front of the fountain is a little city square, Piazzetta Ezio Felici, and a parking area. With your back to the fountain, turn right from this square.Ahead of you, you’ll see a church steeple, the back of a church, and the fontana del Contrada della Lupa, a modern-looking fountain with bronze she-wolf on a travertine base. In Italian mythology, a she-wolf is portrayed by a wolf suckling two human infants—in this case, Senius (for whom Siena is named) and Aschius, the twin sons of Remus. The fountain is located behind Oratorio di San Rocco. In 1962, in a collaborative effort, Emilio Montagnani sculpted the bronze wolf, and architect Giovanni Barsacchi designed the travertine base, stone pedestal and basins on this fountain.
#10 Oratorio di San Rocco
At the She-wolf fountain, look to your right and follow the side of the church until you reach the front façade on Via di Vallerozzi.The Oratorio di San Rocco has belonged to and served as the church of the Contrada since 1789. On the brick façade, there is a round window and a travertine portal. The interior is lavishly decorated with seventeenth-century paintings, which gives it a baroque flavor, and a large chapel is attached. Inside is a statue of Saint Rocco in polychrome terracotta and frescoes by Crescenzio Gambarelli and Rutilio Manetti describing Saint Rocco’s life.Right in front of the church is a she-wolf on top of a column, which was a gift from the city of Rome. At number 63 is the sede (headquarters), the stalla (stable), and the museo del Contrada della Lupa. Visit now or come back at another time to see the historical background of this Contrada.
#11 Porta Ovile
Continue walking downhill on Via di Vallerozzi until you see the Porta Ovile.Porta Ovile is one of the most monumental and ancient gates along the city walls in Siena. This beautiful brick monument was begun in 1230, but what we see now was probably built in the 1300s. On the left side you can see a small fresco behind glass depicting “Mary with Child between Saints Ansano and Bernardino and Angels” by Sano di Pietro. This painting is very important, because it is among the oldest on the city walls.
The End
If you want to go back to Piazza Salimbeni, where you started your walk, retrace your steps, and walk uphill along Via di Vallerozzi. As you reach Via dei Montanini again, take a left and you will arrive back at Piazza Salimbeni.
