Introduction
Historical BackgroundMarch 1494 is the first known record of a group of people from the north section of Siena. Their leader was Girolamo Landucci, who led them in a competition held in honor of the Cardinal of Saint-Malo. At a bull hunt in 1516, the military companies of Magione and Saint Bartholomew appeared with a float in the shape of a porcupine, while the companies of Saint Vincent and Saint Stephen appeared with a float in the shape of a lion. The first time all four of these military companies united was in 1546 under the symbol of the porcupine. The Porcupine Contrada participated in Bull Hunts (cacce dei tori) at various times between 1497 and 1597. On 16 August 1689, some of the members of the Porcupine Contrada held a Palio in Piazza del Campo, with the prize of a silver basin worth fifty thalers (a silver coin used throughout Europe for over four hundred years). Fifteen contrade participated in the race and were responsible for finding their own horses to race (nowadays each contrada is assigned a horse). The contrada was given the title sovrana (sovereign) in 1980 by the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.
#1 Porta Camollia
Start the walk standing outside Porta Camollia, looking up at the gate.The legend surrounding the foundation of Siena gave Porta Camollia its name. In this legend, Romulus, founder of Rome, sent Camulius, one of his leaders, to capture his nephews Senius and Ascanius. Camulius set up his encampment in the area where the Porta Camollia now lies. Over the years, Porta Camollia has been the most defended entrance to the city of Siena, as the gate through which visitors from Florence would have entered along the Cassian Way. Florence was the archenemy of Siena; hence, this is the only gate with an additional defensive gate north of it, the Antiporto di Camollia, with a lookout tower built in 1270. The arch of the gate bears the Latin inscription “Cor magis tibi Sena pandit,” meaning, “Siena opens its heart to you (wider than this gate).” The porta, destroyed during the siege of Siena in 1555, was rebuilt in 1604. The design was created by Alessandro Casolari and decorated by the sculptor Domenico Cafaggi.Porta Camollia (pronounced “kamoleea”) is the most northern gate of Siena’s city Walls. From here you may easily reach Siena’s train station, located at the foot of the hills upon which the town is built.
#2 Antiporto
To get to the train station, walk along Viale V. Emanuele II away from the Porta Camollia until you reach another ancient city gate, the Antiporto di Camollia. On your right, you will see the glass entrance to a series of escalators (about 6) that will take you directly in front of the train station, but don’t go down them now, this is just for your reference.Antiporto means “city gate before, or outside, the real city gate.” The Antiporto di Camollia was an additional gate providing defense for the north side of the city against neighboring—but not neighborly—Florence. The space between the Antiporto and the Porta Camollia was often used for markets and fairs. Emperor Frederick III and his betrothed Eleanor of Portugal first met here; the bishop of Siena, who later became Pope Pius II, blessed their marriage. You can look for a column with a plaque on top of it that remembers this meeting; it is right before the Antiporto, on your left, on the sidewalk by a small park. You can also see a depiction of this famous meeting painted by Pinturicchio in the Piccolomini Library in the Duomo.Before the last escalator, there is a centro commerciale (mall), with several stores, a food court, restaurants, and a big grocery store, called Pam. The escalator is open 24/7; don’t be distressed if the steps aren’t moving. As soon as you step on the first one, it will start operating.
#3 Fortino delle donne Senesi
Return to Porta Camollia, but before entering, walk along the wall on your right on Via Biagio di Mont Luc for about fifty yards until you see the ruins of Fortino delle donne Senesi, a small stone fort.Here at the ruins of Fortino delle donne Senesi, a plaque on the wall remembers the women of Camollia, who defended the city during a siege by Florentine troops in 1555. This is a testament of the love of Sienese women for their hometown and their willingness to defend it, even taking up arms in this ultimate battle against enemy Florence. Sadly, Siena lost.
#4 Christogram on the Porta
Walk back to Porta Camollia to continue your walk. Standing outside Porta Camollia, you will be looking at one of the ancient entrances in the walls surrounding the city. Enter the gate.As you enter the city, you will be standing at the intersection of three streets. If you look behind you and above the main porta door, you will see the Christogram or monogram of the Holy Name of Jesus: “IHS.” This comes from the Greek word Ihsous for “Jesus,” referring to Iesus Hominum Salvator, (Jesus, Savior of mankind). Turning back toward the streets on your left, if you step past the old market, Mercato Rionale, at the beginning of Via Campansi, you will see a small park from which you can enjoy a view of the countryside. Do not linger too long here, you have much to see.
#5 Baldassarre Peruzzi
From the city gate, go back to the middle street of the three roads—it is the one with the sign leading you to Piazza del Campo, the Cathedral, and Santa Maria della Scala. You will be heading down the heart of the Contrada dell’Istrice on via Camollia. Make your way down the street on Via Camollia.Though the area covered by the Contrada dell’Istrice is very large, many of the important and interesting sites lie in this single street. On your way, you will pass number 206, Biciclette Bianchi, where you can rent bicycles. At number 193, you will see the small restaurant Osteria da Titti, where they cook “like your mom.”Continuing down the street, number 168 is the house of Baldassarre Peruzzi, famous Italian architect and painter. Peruzzi worked in Rome under Bramante, Raphael, and Sangallo for many years during the erection of the new Saint Peter’s Cathedral. He returned to his native Siena after the Sack of Rome in 1527. While in Siena, he helped build new fortifications for the city and designed a remarkable dam on the Bruna River. He was also a painter of frescoes in the Cappella San Giovanni (Saint John’s Chapel) in the Duomo of Siena. Here at his home, on the wall, you will see a marble plaque with a coat of arms and a bronze plaque with his portrait in a bas-relief.
#6 Piazzetta della Magione
Turning now to the other side of the street you will see the Chiesa Templare di San Pietro alla Magione (The Templar Church of Saint Peter at Magione).The right side of the Chiesa Templare di San Pietro alla Magione, found in Via Malta, has a small courtyard, which is home to the fontana della contrada sovrana dell'Istrice, dedicated in 1962. You will see the bas-relief of a porcupine with a crown by Vico Consorti. The little square in which it is located, Piazzetta della Magione, is quite delightful. Here you will also see a water well. Siena is one of the few ancient cities built far from the sea or a river. For that reason, the Sienese built many wells, fountains, and underground waterways, the Bottini.
#7 Chiesa Templare di San Pietro alla Magione
Now focus your attention on the church.the church.News of the Chiesa Templare di San Pietro alla Magione was first heard in 998 when two Counts (Bernardo and Gualfredi Ranieri), together with their cousin Giulla, gifted this church to the city together with some houses and vineyards. In 1148, there is documentation that the Order of the Templars, established in 1118, already owned this hospice. The nickname “Magione” derives from a term used to describe the houses of the Templars: mansione (mansion). When their order was suppressed in 1311, the hospice passed on to the Knights of Malta. The simplicity of the church recalls the pilgrims on their way to Rome on foot. Via Camollia was, after all, the first urban tract of the Via Francigena, the road that pilgrims took on their pilgrimage to Rome from northern Europe. For a while, this was the oratory for the Porcupine Contrada.Inside the church, off to the right is a chapel erected between 1523 and 1526 as a votive offering for the plague. It holds The Martyrdom of San Donnino by Antonio Nasini and a fragment of a fresco of La Madonna col Bambino (Madonna with Child) attributed to Lorenzo Rustici. The main part of the church, in the form of a single nave, contains La Madonna con i Santi Giovanni Battista e Pietro (The Madonna with the Saints John the Baptist and Peter) by Diego Pesco and other fragments of frescoes entitled Crocifissione (Crucifixion) and Storie Bibliche (Biblical Stories) by Cristoforo di Bindoccio and Meo di Pero, respectively.
#8 Casa della Pelle
Exit the church and continue down Via Camollia.At number 173 (on your right), you will find an interesting relief sculpture by the door. Can you identify the person depicted in this sculpture? Who carries keys?At Casa della Pelle, they make and sell leather goods of all kinds. You may find medieval weapons, armors, accessories, etc. enough to ignite your imagination and help you step back in time, centuries ago. Leather work was and is central to the Italian economy, a traditional hand-crafted product. Take the time during your stay in Siena to go into one of the leather shops and enquire about this culturally important trade; you will learn much about the artisanship, culture, and economy of leather.At number 137–39 (on your right) is a beautiful double-arched doorway. This is a lovely example of the Sienese arch, which is a round arch with a pointed arch above it. And above the doorways, on the second story, there is a beautiful façade with triple-arch mullioned windows.At number 122 (on your left) is the Osteria la Piana, a small restaurant that offers typical Tuscan dishes. They also offer a tourist’s menu with several courses at a good price.
#9 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico a Fontegiusta
Continue down Via Camollia until you reach Via Fontegiusta (on your right, under the beautiful arch). Turn right onto this street, and you will see the church at the end of it. Head toward the church and take a look around.Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico a Fontegiusta (The Church of Saint Mary in Portico at Fontegiusta), was erected between 1479 and 1484, based on a design by Cristoforo Fedeli da Como. It was built to celebrate the victory of the Sienese over the Florentines in the battle of Poggio Imperiale (1479). Either Neroccio di Bartolomeo or Urbano da Cortona constructed the doorway and marble friezes in 1489. The interior of the church is a simple square layout divided into three naves. The most notable work that the church conserves, and the work from which the church received its name, is found at the center of the main altar and is entitled Madonna of Fontegiusta. A beautiful fifteenth century tabernacle by Marrina frames this work by Cristoforo di Bindoccio and Meo di Pero.A whalebone and various weapons hang above the main entrance to the church. According to tradition, Christopher Columbus, who apparently spent some time as a student at the University of Siena, donated these items to the church. Next to the entrance, you will find a lovely bronze basin for holy water, signed by Giovanni delle Bombarde and dated 1480. The church also houses works from other artists including Bernardino Fungai, Francesco Vanni, Ventura Salimbeni, Michelangelo d’Antonio and Girolamo di Benvenuto.
#10 Trattoria Fonte Giusta
Exit the church and head back to Via Camollia. Turn right onto Via Camollia so you are continuing down the road.If you are thirsty, you will see a water fountain off to the left on the corner of Via Paparoni. Water fountains like this are found in many of Italy’s cities and provide the passerby with a quick refreshing drink; be sure to fill your water bottle here.In addition, if you are hungry, you may want to continue on to Trattoria Fonte Giusta at 102 Via Camollia.This restaurant, voted among the best in town, serves authentic Tuscan food ranging from the simple tagliatelle pasta with meat sauce (ragù) and mushrooms to the somewhat exotic grilled wild boar with polenta. The name Fonte Giusta means that this restaurant is located “near the Giusta fountain.” As pilgrims going to Rome traveled along this road, they could rest and drink from the ancient fountain nearby. This restaurant is located on the foundation of a medieval palace of the Perini Brancadori family.
#11 The Bottini
Once you have had your fill, cross the street into Vicolo di Malizia.At the end of this alley, you will see a plaque on the right-hand wall with this inscription: Fonte Gaia. Ingresso di Fontegiusta. Here is one of the entrances to the Bottini, the underground aquaducts that have distributed water all over town ever since the thirteenth century. The name Bottini most likely derives from the word "buctinus," a reference to the barrel-vaulted ceilings (volte a "botte") covering most all of the aqueduct system (except for the Etruscan portion, which has more of an inverted "V" shape.
#12 Oratorio dei Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio
Now go back to Via Camollia and continue down the street.This section of the main street is probably the most important part of the contrada. Herein lies the church, seat, and museo of the Porcupine Contrada. Moving down the street, you will first arrive at the Oratorio dei Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio (Oratory of Saints Vincenzo and Anastasio) on your right. The easiest way to find the church is to find number 92 on your left, and the entrance to the church is across the street.Walking down the street, it’s easy to walk right past the oratorio of dell’Istrice Contrada. The façade looks just like any other brick façade, and the entrance itself is not much to look at. In fact, perhaps the only way to know this building is a church is by finding the bell tower on its roof. The tower was damaged in the earthquake of 1869, and was subsequently reconstructed with a design by Giuseppe Radicchi, paid for by the members of the Porcupine Contrada. Another item of interest on this building is the ironwork in the form of a porcupine above the door. Look for other symbols of the istrice (porcupine) located on the façade; these small symbols present in every contrada mark territory and serve to remind people of their affiliations and loyalties.In 1848, Grand Duke Leopoldo II officially bestowed ownership of the Oratorio dei Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio to the Porcupine Contrada. The interior, refurbished and plastered in the 1700s, has five bays with three altars and various framed paintings. The first niche to the right contains an eighteenth-century painting entitled Assunta del Faticher (The Assumption of the Faticher). It also houses an altar dedicated to the apostle and patron saint of the contrada, Bartolomeo, complete with a wooden statue of his likeness sculpted in 1931 by Torquato Casciani. In another frame is a painting from the 1600s with Saint Girolamo, attributed to Astolfo Petrazzi.The main altar, at the end of the single nave, is decorated by some structuring painted by Carlo Amidei, characterized by a spectacular gilded wooden tabernacle flanked by two angels dating to 1711. To the left is a painting by Alessandro Casolani of the Madonna with child and Saint John. This hangs above a small niche with a bronze bust of Pinturicchio, who was buried here in 1513. On the altar to the left, dedicated to the Virgin, sits a small bronze figure of the Madonna with child. In the last frame is a painting with Saint Lucy attributed to Giuseppe Nicola Nasini. On the outside wall of the church, there is a plaque in remembrance of the contrada members who died in WWI.
#13 Museo del Contrada dell'istrice
Exiting the church and turning right, you will soon arrive at the museo del contrada and the seat of the Porcupine at number 89.The museo del Contrada dell'Istrice, which is connected to the oratory of the contrada, conserves paintings depicting Saint Carlo and Saint Cristoforo, and an altarpiece with the Madonna and child with Saints Vincenzo and Anastasio. The central fresco, found on the exterior wall of the oratory, depicts a benedictory Jesus, and is considered by Bisogni to be the most ancient fresco conserved in Siena. Another fresco depicts the Madonna with child and the Saints Vincenzo and Anastasio. A notable group of paintings is from the Neapolitan school, dating to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. These include The Holy Family with Saint Giovannino; Saint Carlo Borromeo by Paolo de Maio; San Francesco Borgia by Pietro Bardellino from around 1770; The Coronation of Thorns by Giuseppe Bonito from around 1740; Jesus in the Orchard; and The Martyrdom of Saint Bartolomeo. On the floor, you will find a marble sepulcher of the Provençal knight Luigi de Chamelet, who died in Siena during the black plague in 1348. The museum is also home to the important uniforms originating from 1786, as well as weapons, silvers, and sacred hangings.
#14 Number 85 Via Camollia
Exit the museum and turn right again, continuing down Via Camollia. Stop and look on the wall above number 85.There are two plaques on the wall above number 85. The one on the right remembers Arrigo Boito, who was a guest of Count Guido Chigi Saracini in this house. He was an Italian literate and composer, but he is mostly known as a libretto writer for Italian operas. The plaque on the left remembers Carlo Corradino Chigi, who fought for Italy’s independence, and was subsequently wounded in 1848 during the battle of Curtatone.
#15 Chiesa di Santo Stefano alla Lizza
When you reach Via dei Gazzani, turn right and go up this street.As you come around the bend, you should see a church off to your left, the Chiesa di Santo Stefano alla Lizza (Church of Saint Stefano at Lizza), constructed around the end of the twelfth century. The familiar Romanesque forms are absent, as this church was rebuilt between 1671 and 1675. The classic façade is crowned by a tympanum and oculus, and decorated by four brick pilasters and a rectangular window. The doors open into a room capped by an apse and dominated by a polyptych (a kind of painting consisting of more than three leaves or panels joined by hinges or folds) of the Madonna col Bambino e Santi (Madonna with Child and Saints) by Andrea Vanni. The predella (a raised shelf above the altar), done by Giovanni di Paolo, presents 6 Storie di santo Stefano (6 Stories of Saint Stephen) with the Crocifissione con i santi Girolamo e Bernardino (Crucifixion with the Saints Girolamo and Bernardino) at the center, which now resides in the Baptistry of Siena. On the altar to the right is La Visitazione (The Visitation) by Rutilio Manetti, while the apse contains a ruined Deposizione di Cristo (Deposition of Christ) by Antonio Buonfigli.
#16 Piazza la Lizza
Upon exiting the church, turn left onto Via dei Gazzani and continue straight, with the park on your right. The street now turns into Via la Lizza.This is Piazza la Lizza. Here you can go to relax, play some soccer, or read a book, but don’t stop right now even if you are tired. On your left, you will pass some beautiful classical buildings. The Dante Alighieri School used to be housed in one of these buildings.
#17 Vicolo dello Sportello
Keep walking until you reach Vicolo dello Sportello. This is a little hidden, but you will find it down and around to your left. Turn left onto Vicolo dello Sportello.At the end of Vicolo dello Sportello, on the wall to the right there is a beautiful bas-relief of the Virgin Mary with Child.
#18 Parrocchia di Sant’Andrea Apostolo
Keep walking and turn right onto Via dei Montanini. Not far down the road, you should come to a church on your left. This is the Parrocchia di Sant’Andrea Apostolo (Parish of Saint Andrew the Apostle).The Parrocchia di Sant’Andrea Apostolo underwent notable transformations beginning in 1175 (or more decidedly in 1262). In the second half of the 1700s, the Romanesque temple was rebuilt with the addition of arches and vaults on the interior. In the twentieth century, restorations returned the church to its medieval form, concentrating particularly on the façade, bell tower, and courtyard.The single nave layout houses many works of art. There is a notable relief done by the Florentine school from the middle of the 1400s, entitled Madonna col Bambino (Madonna with child); frescoes by Martino di Bartolomeo; Scene della beata Aldobrandesca Ponzi e del beato Alberto da Chiatina (Scenes of the Blessed Aldobrandesca Ponzi and of the Blessed Alberto da Chiatina) by Apollonio Nasini; and Educazione della Vergine (Upbringing of the Virgin) by Astolfo Petrazzi. On the main altar lies a striking Sienese-style polyptych depicting Incoronazione della Vergine con i Santi Andrea e Pietro (Coronation of the Virgin with the Saints Andrew and Peter) by Giovanni di Paolo. The gold background and bright colors in an ornate gothic frame are all prominent characteristics of Sienese-style gothic art.
#19 Piazza Antonio Gramsci
Upon exiting Parrocchia di Sant’Andrea Apostolo, cross the street straight ahead into Via del Sasso di S. Bernardino. Notice the smaller street sign underneath the main sign that says “Già Vicolo di Menicuccio”; you will see these signs all over Siena. They tell you what the street was once named. Go up this street and walk to the end. You will be looking right at Piazza Antonio Gramsci.The famous Piazza Antonio Gramsci is the main bus hub of the city. From here, you can catch a bus to Florence, the Pisa Airport, Rome, and many other places in Italy. The ticket office is located underneath the piazza, and you can access it from several entries to the underground passage. If you are looking for a mouth-watering piece of pizza with crispy crust while you are waiting for a bus, turn left from this street into the Piazza Gramsci, and on your left in the cluster of stores you will find bars, several stores, and a small walk-up pizzeria—the size of a closet—at number 15. Pizza al Taglio (pizza by the slice) is an experience not to be missed, and a delight to taste buds and pocketbook alike.
#20 Piazza la Lizza Open-air Market
Across the street from Piazza Gramsci is Piazza la Lizza (you have glanced at this before on your walk).This may seem like a quiet area, but every Wednesday Piazza la Lizza comes alive with the open-air market. Wandering around the market, you will be able to find clothes, leather coats, wallets, handbags, shoes, household items, flowers and plants, fresh fruits and vegetables, various meats and cheeses, as well as souvenirs and other authentic Italian products. It is also a great place to have lunch, try the porchetta (pork) sandwiches, fried mozzarella balls, and fresh figs. The market meanders around the Medici Fortress, which is what you will visit next.
#21 Fortezza Medicea
Continue straight across the street from where you came out from Via del Sasso di S. Bernardino to Viale Cesare Maccari, the street that runs left of the Park at La Lizza; your landmark is the NH Excelsior hotel. Go straight on Viale Maccari. On your left is Siena’s soccer stadium. (If you are in Siena during the soccer season, do not miss watching a game.) On your right will be the Piazza La Lizza. Passing Viale XXV Aprile, move down the street, and you should start to see the Fortezza Medicea (Medicean Fortress).The Fortezza Medicea, known also as the Forte di Santa Barbara (Fort of Saint Barbara), was built between 1561 and 1563 by order of the Duke of Florence Cosimo I de’ Medici. The fortress was originally built in the shape of an “L” but was later changed to its present quadrilateral form. At every angle, constructed in brick, are imposing wedge-shaped ramparts. On three of these, the Medicean coat of arms rises above the head of a lion. On the rampart facing south, remains only the head of the lion. Along the top of the walls run ample passages, strengthened by tress and benches. Make sure you take a walk on these, as you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city and take pictures. In the center clearing, is an amphitheater that hosts open-air performances during the summer. Along the southwest side of the fortress lie the beautiful gardens.The Fortezza Medicea hosted a unique Palio on 17 August 1874—a palio run, not in the piazza, but in the fortezza itself. This event, called the Palio alla Romana (the Roman Palio), was raced by nine contrade and was won by the Oca Contrada (the Goose Contrada). Nowadays the fortress hosts art or craft shows and often a traveling carnival (a Luna Park). Be sure to enter the Fortezza and look around. Many people come here for the breathtaking views or for a run.After looking around the inside of the fortezza, walk around the outside of the walls. On the west side (opposite from the entrance), you will find a large modern fountain. Behind the fountain, and semi-hidden in the shrubs, you will find a spiral marble structure. This is one of the other racetracks for barberi, the toy balls/wood marbles painted the colors of the contrade. You will see these for sale at any tabacchi that sells souvenirs. Race them down this track to see which contrada wins. Speaking of winning and losing, we began this walk exploring Camollia Gate and learning of the battles between Florence and Siena. Now we conclude this walk at the symbol of the conquest of Siena—the fortress built by the Florentines to suppress Siena. Feel free to walk around and explore the Fortezza Medicea, as this is the end of your tour.
The End
After looking around the inside of the fortezza, walk around the outside of the walls. On the west side (opposite from the entrance), you will find a large modern fountain. Behind the fountain, and semi-hidden in the shrubs, you will find a spiral marble structure. This is one of the other racetracks for barberi, the toy balls/wood marbles painted the colors of the contrade. You will see these for sale at any tabacchi that sells souvenirs. Race them down this track to see which contrada wins. Feel free to walk around and explore the Fortezza Medicea, as this is the end of your tour.
