Introduction
Historical BackgroundThe Contrada of the Tortoise was initiated by the people living in the Castelvecchio area, which is the oldest part of town, perhaps of Etruscan origin. A tortoise is a symbol of firmness, and this area is considered the first of Siena’s contrade. Tradition says it started when the two local military companies, Porta all’Arco and Saint Agate, joined together in 1516. The two companies participated together in several city festivities, palios, hunting games, and other events. In fact, they hunted bulls and buffaloes under a tortoise-shaped float. In 1633, they won their first Palio. In 1717, the Princess Violante of Bavaria was called as governess of Siena. That year the Tortoise won the Palio that was held in her honor. Princess Violante also changed the Palio rules and limited to ten the number of the contrade running. Through the years, the Tortoise has had a difficult relationship with the Contrada of the Snail; lasting enmity was declared in 1906.
#1 Porta Tufi
Begin your walk at Porta Tufi (city gate) located at the bottom of via Pier Andrea Mattioli.Porta Tufi is part of the city walls built in1326. It’s not the city’s biggest gate, but it is one of the most beautiful and important ones. The walls encircled the whole city of Siena. They were a necessary defense barrier and also a symbol of Siena’s dignity and of its voluntary isolation from the rest of the world, with a perimeter that defined and set apart the territory of the town. At the gate, important economic and customs operations took place which were essential for the economic well-being of the town.
#2 Orti del Tolomei
From Porta Tufi, walk toward the town (uphill) on Via Pier Andrea Mattioli.On your left, you will pass the University of Siena’s departments of Law, Political and International Science, and Social, Political, and Cognitive Science in a large modern white stone building. On your right through an opening in the stone wall, you will see the Orti del Tolomei (Tolomei’s Park), a beautiful resting spot with a great view of the Sienese countryside and some modern sculpture. Many dog owners like to come here to get some exercise for their four-legged friends.
#3 Musei dell’Accademia dei Fisiocritici
Continue uphill, and on your left at civic number 4 you will come to the leafy entrance of the Orto Botanico (Botanical Gardens). Whether you visit them now or return later, they are well worth seeing. As you continue up Via Pier Andrea Mattioli, on your left, you will see a small square, Piazza Silvio Gigli. At number 2, you’ll find the Musei dell’Accademia dei Fisiocritici, a museum of natural history.The Musei dell’Accademia dei Fisiocritici was founded on 17 March 1691 by Dr. Pirro Maria Gabrielli, a professor of medicine and botany at the University of Siena. Dr. Gabrielli and his students wanted to offer an experimental interpretation of the physical world in compliance with the new enlightened atmosphere of the time. They devised the neologism “Fisiocritici” by blending the words “physis” (nature) and “criticos” (judges), for the purpose of researching nature’s secrets, eliminating false beliefs, and learning the truth as true judges of nature. The museum was significantly expanded in the eighteenth century, when it received additional collections and funds from many Tuscan donors. Nowadays, it still contains ancient exhibits, but is also continually being upgraded and renewed.The museum has several sections: geological, zoological, anatomical, botanical, etc., and is called a Museum of Natural History, because it contains exhibits from the three main nature kingdoms: animal, vegetable, and mineral. It’s purpose is to research and make public the truthfulness of natural phenomena. The academy also has a library housing five thousand scientific books from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and many journals focusing on the medical, agricultural, and naturalistic fields. Look for the Etruscan Tomb in the basement level. Note that you need to page the museum director via the intercom outside the door to gain entrance. Despite limited hours, the museum is well worth a visit, and garners excellent online reviews.
#4 Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Upon exiting the museum, look at the doorway immediately to your right. What was once a chapel is now a university library. You can quietly peek inside for a moment while students are studying to look at the baroque stucco work overhead. Outside, look ahead of you upon the larger square, the Prato Sant’Agostino, where you will see some children’s playground equipment. Inside the covered portico, you will find the entrance to Chiesa di Sant’Agostino (Saint Augustine Church).They began building the beautiful Chiesa di Sant’Agostino and nearby convent in 1258; construction lasted more than fifty years. The buildings have been repaired and modified over the course of time; in fact, in the eighteenth century, Luigi Vanvitelli directed the restoration of this church through the addition of polychrome marble and many new statues and paintings. On the outside, it is a massive brick building, the façade covered by a neoclassic porch and sail vaults supported by Doric columns. Most of the interior decoration is in the baroque style. Among the most important Paintings found in this church are the Maestà, and the Madonna on the Throne and Saints by Ambrogio Lorenzetti; Adoration of the Magi by Sodoma; a triptych by Simone Martini; and the Crucifixion by Perugino. Today, most of the polychrome marble has been redone in pristine white, and you will notice the church is in a state of restoration, a very common occurrence in Siena, and something that could span decades or even centuries.
#5 Vicolo della Tartuca
Continue walking toward town, and you will see Porta all’Arco (Arched Gate) that connects Via Mattioli and Via di San Pietro through an archway between buildings over the street. As you walk through this arch, you will find yourself in the center of the Tortoise. Turn left onto Via Tito Sarrocchi and turn right on Vicolo di Saltarello. Turn right again onto the Vicolo della Tartuca. You are now in the heart of the Tortoise.On the small Vicolo della Tartuca at number 9, is the stable where the local people keep the horses before the running of the Palio.
#6 Fontana della Contrada Tartuca
Retrace your steps back to the Porta all’Arco (where the arch is over the street). Turn left onto Via San Pietro and turn left again on Via Tommaso Pendola. Right on the corner, you will see the fontana della Contrada Tartuca.The fontana della Contrada Tartuca was created by the artist Bruno Buracchini, who recast the bronze figures in 1951; the original did not satisfy the contrada committee. At this fountain, people can be “baptized” as members of this specific contrada, just as in all the other contrade in Siena. Note that this is a “lay” baptism, a symbol of and commitment to life-long memberships in the contrada. The water is potable, and most BYU students refill their water bottles at this cool fountain.
#7 Museo della Tartuca
Farther along on Via Tommaso Pendola is the Museo della Tartuca at number 21.The museo della Tartuca is divided into two main sections. One is dedicated to Palio victories, containing all the banners won by the Contrada and the Renaissance clothes used during the historical parades. The other section contains precious vestments, altar cloths, and holy vessels. Among these, there is a precious silver plate, a Masgalano (most elegant), won by the Tortoise in 1562 for elegance and posture during that year’s historical parade. It portrays the mythological story of Ratto d’Europa (The Rape of Europa).There is also another section in the basement in honor of Caterina Vannini, a local saint born in 1562, right where the church of the contrada is located today. She was a beautiful woman who, as a young girl, spent time in Rome as a courtesan. As she traveled back to Siena, she had a religious conversion and joined a convent. There, she often corresponded with the famous Milanese Cardinal Borromeo. Because of this epistolary and her dubious past, she became very famous. In 1606, she died of edema, and many scholars believe the painter Caravaggio took inspiration from her death when he painted his Death of the Virgin, whom he represented with clear swellings on legs and abdomen. The church of the contrada is her final resting place. Visits to the church are by appointment. If you are not going to visit the museum at this time, there is a large modern window onto the street where passersby can see the many palio banners or drappellone the contrada has won over the years.
#8 Sant’Antonio alle Murella
At number 25 Via Tommaso Pendola, near the seat of the Tortoise is the chiesa della Contrada Selva, the Oratorio Oratorio di Sant’Antonio da Padova, commonly known as Sant’Antonio dale Murella and dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua.On the right side of the Sant’Antonio alle Murella, there is a bas-relief of Tommaso Pendola (1800–1883), to whom this street is dedicated. Born in Genoa, he came to Siena, where he dedicated his life to assisting and educating the deaf and mute.More information about Tommaso Pendola is included in the next tour stop.Sant'Antonio alle Murella is so called because the ancient walls of the city (mura or murella) run nearby. In the seventeenth century, the Tortoise citizens purchased an old palace belonging to Saint Augustine’s friars. In 1682, they began building their church, using the foundations of the previous building. It’s created in the baroque style with a façade covered in brick. The little bell-tower was rebuilt in 1800. This is a real example of a contrada church; members of the Tortoise designed and built it solely on their own from top to bottom. The main altar, created in 1685, is the work of Giovanni Antonio Mazzuoli. It’s a baroque aedicule (a structure with niches to hold statues) within a polychrome frame. The central stucco bas-relief, painted and decorated in gold, depicts the Madonna appearing to Saint Anthony. Inside the church there are also several paintings depicting scenes from Saint Anthony’s life. Don’t confuse this church with Sant’Antonio da Padova, located in Contrada della Civetta (Owl).
#9 Dante Aligheri School
Continue up Via Tommaso Pendola and pause outside number 37. I hope you recognize this building.It was in this building that Tommaso Pendola founded the Instituto Pendola per Sordomuti (Pendola Institute for Deaf-Mutes), which is no longer in operation. However, the building, now under the direction of the city, houses the Siena Art Institute Onlus, which partners with a fund for the deaf and is a strong supporter of deaf-accessibility programs. Thus, in a measure, Pendola's work lives on in the same building in which it was founded. This building also houses the Dante Alighieri School (DA Siena), BYU’s campus in Italy. Within the walls of the DA Siena is a hidden hallway with the old bedroom and personal quarters of Tommaso Pendola, those these rooms are currently closed to the public. If you enter the building today, you can see many photos of the old school for the deaf and its students.BYU students have been attending Dante Aligheri Siena since 2006 to learn Italian language, culture, and cooking. In the lounge of the school you will find a student graffiti wall with the names of and messages from BYU students through the years. See if you can find any you know. If your study abroad program does not include a cooking course here, please feel free to go up to the top floor of the building and ask at the front desk how to sign up for one. Tell them you are from BYU and they will welcome you with open arms.
#10 Castelvecchio
Leaving the DA Siena building, turn right, then turn left onto Viccolo di Castelvecchio.This is the place of the first settlement in Siena. Castelvecchio is the oldest section of town. Legend says that in 700 BC, Remus’ twin children, Aschio and Senio, fled from Rome in order to avoid persecution by their uncle Romulus. They settled north of the river Tressa. Helped by a few shepherds, Senio built a fortified castle—Castelsenio (Senio’s castle)—on top of the highest hill. Later, the castle name changed to Castelvecchio (old castle). Here at numbers 25–27, you will find a plaque on the wall on your left remembering the house where the Sienese founded the Castelsenio Society in the nineteenth century.
#11 Vicolo di Castelvecchio
As you walk uphill on Vicolo di Castelvecchio, you will reach a “T” in the road, as the Vicolo merges with Via di Castelvecchio. Turn right and proceed downhill. After number 41 turn left and proceed into a small courtyard.Welcome to this diminutive courtyard, quite possibly one of the oldest places within one of the oldest neighborhoods in Siena. You may feel that you’re invading private property, the space is so intimate and small, but your presence won’t be unwelcomed as long as you are culturally sensitive. If you see anyone, greet them with a friendly “buongiorno,” as you are almost literally in their home. Imagine the generations of families that have lived here through the centuries—laundry was washed here, food prepared, lovers met, children played. See if you can find a small terracotta tabernacolo dedicated to la Madonna (Mary). After spending a few moments here taking in the atmosphere, retrace your steps out of the courtyard back to Via di Castelvecchio and continue in the direction you were heading.At number 65, you will find an excellent restaurant, the Osteria Castelvecchio. Besides being on a beautiful and central location, yet removed from downtown’s confusion, the small Osteria offers a beautiful ambiance, great local cuisine, and several vegetarian choices, which is quite rare in Tuscany.
#12 The End
Continue downhill on Via di Castelvecchio, and you will end up in Via di San Pietro. Turn left.On Via di San Pietro, you will find several pizzarias and bars, as well as a laundromat and a fruit stand. This bustling Siena thoroughfare has lots of commerce and movement of locals and tourists alike and can provide an interesting study in cultural economy. Many BYU students choose to get a piece of pizza here and sit on the steps of the Chiesa di San Pietro for an al fresco lunch. Some of our BYU faculty read the newspaper in Bar Pinacoteca over a cappuccino d’orzo (warm barley drink) or a hot chocolate and a cornetto (sweet croissant).After exploring the Via di San Pietro neighborhood, continue back down to the Porta all’Arco. This is the end of your walk.
