Introduction
Historical BackgroundLa Contrada della Pantera earned its name after area residents constructed a machine that resembled a panther. It is believed that the contrada chose the image of the panther from the symbol of boldness belonging to the city of Lucca, as the majority of the contrada’s inhabitants were merchants from that town.To the present day, Lucca is their “twin city.” Between 1308 and 1311, Duccio di Buoninsegna painted his famous Maestà in his studio situated in this contrada near the Due Porte Square. The Panther obtained the oratory of San Giovanni Decollato (Saint John beheaded) in 1684 and was able to beautify it with the help of the Goose Contrada. Notably, the Panther participated in a memorable Palio on 2 July 1696, which was run in the presence of grand duke Cosimo III. The contrada won that Palio and was awarded a guantiera (a glove holder). In 1831, the Panther Contrada shared its use of the oratory of Santa Magherita with the Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, founded by the father of Tommaso Pendola in the same year. In 1959, the world-renowned baritone Ettore Bastianini was elected captain, which gave a notable lift to the organization of the Panther Contrada.
#1 Osteria Il Tamburino
Standing with your back to the Piazza di Postierla in the Eagle Contrada, walk up Via di Stalloreggi. Immediately on your left, at number 11 you will see a restaurant, the Osteria Il Tamburino.Many people say the Osteria Il Tamburino offers the most authentic Sienese food at a great price. Their specialties include pappardelle pasta with wild boar sauce and the osso buco (braised veal with vegetables in white wine and broth).
#2 Piazza del Conte
As you exit the restaurant, continue back up Via di Stalloreggi, and, you will come to the tiny Piazza del Conte on your left. Here you will find the fontana della Contrada della Pantera.La fontana della contrada della Pantera was inaugurated on 1 October 1977. It portrays an agile black panther that gazes at the water beneath. A sonnet celebrating the contrada and its members was read at its inauguration. Aurora Cialfi commissioned the sculptor Giulio Corsini to create the fountain, then gifted it to the contrada.
#3 Hotel Duomo
Continue along Via di Stalloreggi and, at number 38, on your right, you will find a nice bed and breakfast.The Hotel Duomo is located in the heart of the city, in a 12th century building modernized over time, with spacious rooms and all the contemporary conveniences.
#4 La Madonna del Corvo
Just ahead, you will see Via di Castelvecchio; look up at the corner and you will see La Madonna del Corvo (The Madonna of the Crow).This tabernacle, decorated with a fresco by Sodoma (1477–1549) depicts La Pietà. The name La Madonna del Corvo is believed to have come from the popular tradition that a crow, contaminated by the plague, flew into Siena, and having landed on the sacred image, was instantaneously struck by lightning. Consequently, by divine design, the spread of the terrible plague was limited in Siena and most of the city was subsequently saved.
#5 Museo della Contrada della Pantera
Now turn left on Vicolo di Castelvecchio and take the first right onto Via di San Quirico. Head up the street until you reach number 26 on your right, which will be the museo della Contrada della Pantera.The Museo della Contrada della Pantera illustrates the history of the contrada and conserves its historical costumes. The collection includes banners won in the nineteenth century, wooden altars, and archived documents from 1684. The ground floor contains the nine banners (or Palios) won by the Contrada in the 1900s, as well as other works, furnishings, and sacred hangings, including a cloth with the Decollazione di S. Giovanni Battista (Beheading of Saint John the Baptist) by Antonio Nasini, the contrada’s patron saint, and the Madonna della Mandorla (The Madonna of the Almond). Uniforms and a few other relics are kept on the upper floor.
#6 Chiesa dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta
As you exit the museum and turn right, you will see the Chiesa dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta or Giuditta (Church of Saints Quirico and Judith).La Chiesa dei Santi Quirico e Giulietta is one of the oldest churches in Siena and reputed to have been built on a pagan temple, which may be the reason it took on the names of two Roman martyrs. The structure dates back to the fourteenth century; later, the façade was completely transformed, and the small arcade was added. Inside are paintings from the fifteenth century by artists including Pietro Sorri (Crown of Thorns), Stefano Volpi, Alessandro Casolani, Ventura Salimbeni, and Francesco Vanni (Christ at the Column and Return from Egypt). The architecture underwent a radical renovation in the sixteenth century, but the portal and some capitals date back to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is very rare to see this church open, so if you do, take a peek inside.Although it's difficult to tell since your view from this location is limited, you are now at one of the highest points of the city, and definitely at the high point of the Terzo di Citta.
#7 Ristorante Vivace
Retrace your steps to Via di Stalloreggi and turn left on this street. If you have a special occasion to celebrate, you may want to stop at number 62 and eat at the Ristorante Vivace.The lovely Ristorante Vivace offers many different plates typical of Tuscany along with wonderful seafood options. This establishment is one you will want to reserve for a memorable occasion—not your average meal. There’s a beautiful terrace on the back with a stunning view, especially if you enjoy watching a colorful sunset spreading across the Tuscan landscape.
#8 Bini
Continue down Via di Stalloreggi, which ends under an arch leading into Piazzetta delle due Porte (Small Square of Two Doors). Inside this arch, there is a sixteenth-century tabernacle in stucco, which was recently attributed to Bartolomeo di David. This painting depicts the Madonna with Child, Saint John, and Saint Catherine.Before you go through the arch, look at the pastry shop Bini on your left, at number 93. Not only is there a window where you can watch them making the pastries, this is the house of the famous Sienese painter, Duccio di Buoninsegna. Look at the plaque on the wall just above the doors of the shop to read about this.
#9 Osteria Nonna Gina
Walk all the way through the arch to the Osteria Nonna Gina. Turn around to look at the arch that you just passed through. You are standing at the intersection of Piano dei Mantellini, Via Mascagni, Via del Fosso di Sant’Ansano, and Via Stalloreggi (known as Piazzetta delle Due Porte), from here you will see what is known as the Due Porte (or the two doors). A small street used to run through the left arch, which has been closed off.Now, let’s talk about the restaurant that you are standing in front of: Osteria Nonna Gina (Grandma Gina’s Inn). The word “osteria” implies a family environment, and Grandma Gina’s offers local foods, homemade pasta, and grilled meats, all in a rustic and family environment. They welcome pets. Many of our BYU students like to have private celebrations here (without the faculty).
#10 Ettore Bastianini
From the piazzetta, head down Via Paolo Mascagni until you reach number 33.You will see a small plaque on the wall above your head dedicated to Ettore Bastianini. This house is where he was born in 1922. Bastianini became a world-renowned opera singer, beginning to perform at age fifteen while apprenticed to pastry chef Gaetano Vanni, who encouraged Bastianini to join Siena’s cathedral choir. He sang his first professional concerts as a bass in 1940 and 1941, but later sang baritone pieces. In 1942, he won first prize at the sixth National Singing Contest, held at the Teatro Comunale in Florence. Shortly after, he was drafted into the Italian Air Force during WWII.Following his service, he returned to singing, making his operatic debut in La Bohème in Ravenna in November 1945. He subsequently performed in Madama Butterfly, Il Barbiere di Siviglia, Rigoletto, Lucia di Lammermoor, and Aida. On 24 April 1948, he made his La Scala debut in Stravinsky’s Oedipus Rex. In 1962, only months after his mother’s death from cancer, he was diagnosed with a tumor in his throat. It is likely that this affected his ability to perform up to his previous standard; during the last two years of his life, he received mixed performance reviews, and was even booed during a performance of Tosca at theMetropolitan Opera in New York City. In 1967, Bastianini succumbed to cancer; he is buried in Siena.
#11 Porta Laterina
Continue straight down this road and exit the Porta Laterina.(Note: When leaving the gate, immediately on your right is a small parking lot. More importantly, also located here is a hiking path through olive trees and lush hillside that will take you to the Fontebranda parking, and the Fontebranda gate (Selva/Oca). Do this hike later, after you have completed the Panther walk.) Walk down Via delle Laterno until you reach some buildings for the University of Siena.If you enter at gate 8 of the university, you’ll find a very interesting and free Museo Nazionale dell’Antartide (Antarctic). In 1985, Italy began a national research program in Antarctica. The museum conserves biologic, geologic, and glaciologic findings for the 7th continent.Continuing down Via del Laterino, you’ll find beautiful flower stalls just before the Cimitero Laterino. Well worth seeing, the cemetery is free and open to the public—when you enter and look around, note the differences between Italian cemeteries and their American counterparts. What do you notice about the setting and the monuments? After you have explored a bit, retrace your steps back to the Piazzetta delle Due Porte and turn left, on Via del Fosso di Sant’Ansano.About halfway down Via del Fosso di Sant’Ansano you can get a beautiful view of the Sienese countryside. You may want to stop, take a couple of pictures, and take time to enjoy the marvelous greenery and panorama. Look down into the private gardens to see olive trees and some gardener sheds, as well as a good view of the city wall. Also from this street, you can see the looming bulk of the large Santa Maria della Scala right in front of you. Look up to see all the windows, doors and additions that have been constructed over the centuries. Think about all the pilgrims and patients that have stayed here. Looking at this side of Santa Maria della Scala one obtains a plain understanding of how this was once an ancient pilgrimage house and hospital, with all the patient and pilgrim dormitory windows. You can also see where bathrooms with plumbing have been added to the back of the building, probably in the first half of the twentieth century. The front façade of Santa Maria della Scala is in the Eagle Contrada.
#12 The End: Palazzo Ravizza
If you were to continue down this street, you would reach the Forest Contrada. But today we are going to retrace our steps again to the Piazzetta delle Due Porte. Once you have arrived at the piazzetta, continue straight on Pian dei Mantellini.At number 34, on your right, you will notice the rather plain façade of the palazzo Ravizza. This was an aristocratic home until the 1920s, when the noble family could no longer afford to keep it. They opened a pensione, and it has been an inn ever since. Do not let the drab façade deceive you. The interior is a preserved historical artifact from the nineteenth century to the 1920s. The palazzo still uses the old guestbook that includes names such as Helen Frick, the famous New York art collector who created the Frick Library in Manhattan. In fact, Frick donated the Steinway piano in the hotel lobby. Local legend also states that members of JFK’s family stayed in the palazzo in the mid-twentieth century. There’s also a beautiful terrace off the back that looks over the countryside.By now, you should see the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Niccolò del Carmine (Church of Saint Nicholas of the Carmine). It is one of the more elegant bell towers in Siena, in the baroque style and covered with wild plants and caper bushes. This church rests on the border between the Snail and the Panther Contrade. This imposing structure has undergone numerous renovations and is now used by the Panther as its church. This is the last site on your tour.You may want to take a moment for pictures of the marvelous baroque bell tower. The Carmelites built Chiesa di San Niccolò del Carmine during the first half of the thirteenth century. If you get a chance to go inside, you will see a single nave lighted by oval windows. You will also see works of art from various periods, most notably the big San Michele che scaccia gli angeli ribelli (Saint Michael Dispelling the Rebellious Angels), masterpiece of Domenico Beccafumi, and Mary’s Nativity by Sodoma. In addition, there are many paintings by Pietro Lorenzetti, most notably the Madonna del Carmine (The Madonna of the Carmine). The altars and paintings are truly magnificent, so don’t pass up this opportunity.
