Tour Overview
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Siena, one of the oldest and most interesting cities in the world. During your time here, you will notice Siena counts only about sixty thousand permanent residents. Siena may be small and traditional, but it is also cosmopolitan. It was once its own country, and as such, continues to have a local pride that nourishes its rich identity.
Geography
Unlike Rome with its expansive boulevards, Florence with its grid-like pattern, and Venice built on water, Siena is built on steep Tuscan hills. Your experience in Siena’s narrow, winding streets influences the way you understand the city. You will see it is difficult to understand how the city fits together, because, oftentimes, you will only see the sky above you in a narrow, curvaceous lane. One of the first things you should do to get an understanding of the lay of the land is to climb the Torre del Mangia in the Piazza del Campo with a Siena city map, available at the Tourist Information office in the piazza del Duomo.
History
Siena’s foundation story is connected with ancient Rome. According to legend, Remus (Romulus’ twin brother) had twin sons, Aschio and Senio. Fearing their uncle, they escaped north and founded Siena, named after Senio. Therefore, the she-wolf suckling twin boys symbolizes both Rome and Siena. When this image is found in Siena with the she-wolf looking forward, the twins are Aschio and Senio. When this image is found in Rome with the she-wolf looking backward, the twins are Remus and Romulus.
Siena was its own republic from the eleventh century until 1555. The Battle of Montaperti in 1260 was the defining moment of Siena’s republic, their independence, and at the heart of their national pride. At the famous hilltop of Montaperti outside of Siena, they defended themselves victoriously against the enemy Florentines only by the miraculous assistance of the Virgin Mary[SM3] . Don’t forget, as a resident Sienese, you are an enemy of Florence. When Siena was finally conquered by Florence in 1555, the Sienese culture began to turn inward and focus on the preservation of culture, rather than conquest and expansion.. This is when the Palio (annual horse race held in the Piazza del Campo) began to develop as a ritual to remember the former battle glories of the Republic of Siena.
In 1348, two-thirds of the population perished in the Black Plague. Again, it was through the miraculous intervention of the Virgin Mary that the remainder of the city was spared. Because of this intervention and the Virgin’s assistance at the victory of Montaperti, Siena is a city dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
The Walks
The Siena Walks are organized by contrade, the ancient neighborhoods that are divided according to old military companies. During the Republic of Siena (approximately 1260–1555), the army mobilized very quickly, thanks to the efficiency of the small military companies. Previously, there were fifty-nine contrade, now there are seventeen. You will also notice the walks are divided by Terzior “Thirds” of the city, which are the three districts based on the three hills: Città, Camollia, and San Martino.
You may have noticed Siena is a bit off the beaten path—not on the direct train line between Roma-Firenze-Venezia and you may not see what many would consider famous sights. Instead, the Siena Walks invite you to dwell on the small, the intimate, and the familiar. Hopefully, the walks will cause you, just like this town, to turn inward a little bit, wax introspective about what Siena means to you, and contemplate the value and impact studying abroad here will have on your life. Study Abroad Siena is slow, just like the “Italian Slow Food Movement,” which emphasizes the artisanal, the handcrafted, and the authentic. So pause to listen to the preparation of lunch below a kitchen window. Can you smell the tomato sauce and the garlic? Can you hear the chorus of pots and pans? What are the deep damp smells of San Domenico church—incense, wood, mold? Walking through Piazza La Lizza, does the gravel crunch beneath your shoes, can you smell the rot of chesnut leaves during the rain? Can you hear the drummer's practice for their contrada in a nearby neighborhood? What does the stone of the cathedral feel like? What does the taste of the mildly anise-almond ricciarelli feel like as the powdered sugar dissolves on your tongue? Pay attention to these sensory aspects, not just the “sights.” And remember, walking has always been a form of recreation in Italy. Arriving at a destination is not enough—walking, itself, is the objective.
Now, we invite you to walk with us, through our home in Italy, Siena.
-Cinzia Noble, Brigham Young University
-Aaron Rose, Brigham Young University
-Luca Bonomi, Dante Alighieri Siena
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