Introduction
Historical BackgroundThe origins of the Shell Contrada are still somewhat uncertain. Like other contrade, the Shell was founded through the union of two military groups: L’Abbadia Nuova di Sopra and L’Abbadia Nuova di Sotto. These two military companies were the first to attack in the famous battle of Montaperti (4 September 1260). The inhabitants of the Shell also maintained the army of the Republic of Siena for six months. In 1527, the Abbadia Nuova protected the city walls from the Noveschi (a mercantile-banking oligarchy), avoiding a possible invasion and, consequently, war. For these many acts of bravery and because the people of the contrada paid for and constructed the Fonte dei Pispini (Pispini fountain), assisting in supplying the entire city with potable water, the contrada received the title of “Noble.” The Shell participated in many bull hunts from 1507–78, winning thirteen of them. On 2 July 1715, the Shell Contrada arrived in the main city square in a cart in the form of a scallop shell that held thirty men dressed in blue, with various nymphs and the god Neptune, who for this occasion rode a horse and held a trident. The Shell is the contrada with the sixth most victories overall. The Shell has never gone the longest time without winning the Palio. In Siena, the contrada that has been the longest without a victory is nicknamed Nonna (Grandmother) and earns the cuffia (a kind of bonnet or hat).
#1 Fontana di San Viene
As you stand outside Porta dei Pispini, you are standing outside the protective walls of the city. The Porta dei Pispini is part of the last protective wall built around the city built in 1326. Originally called Porta San Viene, it has two parts: the actual gateway and an inside defensive gate. The relics of Sant’Ansano were carried through this entrance in 1107. Go through the gate. Heading up the street you will eventually come to a fountain at the intersection of Via dei Pispini and Via di Santa Chiara. This is the fontana della Nobile Contrada del Nicchio.This fountain, called the fontana di San Viene, dates from 1292, and existed until at least 1395, though it is uncertain where it was located. The fountain resurfaced in 1466 when the inhabitants of the area now contained in the Shell Contrada asked to construct a new fountain to provide water that could be easily accessed in case of fire. From a document written in 1467, we know that it included a washbasin and decorated with a column with a golden she-wolf. Originally constructed in 1534, the name derives from the word pispinelli, a Sienese word for the jets of water that used to fall into the basin. The fountain underwent various restorations and modifications throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. When the nearby barracks were put to use in 1936, the fountain was moved to a new location so cars and trucks could use the road, and but moved back to its original location in June 2001.The fountain is located across the street from the Chiesa di Santo Stefano. This church (at Via dei Pispini 112) served as home to the society of the Pania (the society of the Shell Contrada). The church began operating between the late 1300s and the early 1400s, given in perpetual lease to the well-known sculptor Lorenzo di Mariano. The church’s restructuring was finished about 1576, with the building of the façade finished in 1615. During the 1600s, the church was used by the Shell Contrada for meetings and religious celebrations, until the members of the contrada decided to build the Chiesa di San Gaetano, which has been home to the society of the Shell Contrada since 1947.
#2 Chiesa di San Gaetano
Heading up Via dei Pispini, you will come to a fork in the road with a church in the middle of it. The church is the Chiesa di San Gaetano (Church of Saint Gaetano), which serves as oratory for the Shell Contrada.The structure of the Chiesa di San Gaetano was finished in 1685. The work of decorating the interior of the church and the construction of the façade were finished in May 1691. The stucco of the first façade was completed in April 1703 by Giacomo Franchini, and the whole work in 1705. Giuseppe Nicola Nasini began work on the main altar in 1704. The church of the Shell Contrada never underwent any variations, having maintained its original structure to present day. Damages from an earthquake in 1798 caused a need for restoration, which began in 1799.Between 1883 and 1885, Vincenzo Martinelli carved and finished a wooden sculpture that would decorate the main altar of the church. Martinelli also created a wood tabernacle, which in 1889 would also be placed on the main altar. In 1957, the wooden statue of Saint Gaetano, done by Aldo Marzi, was moved to the oratory via a solemn procession. A great shell adorns the façade of the church with Madonna and Baby Jesus and Saints in the center. In 1685, the first mass dedicated to the patron saint of the contrada was celebrated after the structure of the church was completed.
#3 Tabernacolo
Take the left side of the fork and head toward number 47 in Via dell’Oliviera. This is the sede (seat of headquarters) della Contrada di Nicchio (Shell Contrada). Continue up the street, and as you approach the corner at Via di Fiera Nuova, look up on your left. You will see what is called a tabernacolo (tabernacle), with an image of the Virgin Mary.Tabernacoli (plural) are images of the Madonna or other saints, often outside of buildings. Sometimes people leave flowers, candles, or other votive offerings. These images are common all around Siena and testify of the reverence the Sienese have for the mother of Christ.
#4 Hotel Antica Torre
Continue until you reach Via di Fiera Vecchia and turn left.At number 7 in Via di Fiera Vecchia is the Hotel Antica Torre, a small but comfortable hotel housed in an old tower. The breakfast room is beautifully decorated, with a true old-world flavor.A number 9 is Palestra Gold’s Gym. If you have a membership in the US, it will not work here, but with the Dante Alighieri’s card, you can get good discounts. Besides rooms with exercise equipment, they also offer several classes in spinning, Pilates, tai chi, and zumba.
#5 Chiesa di San Raimondo del Refugio
Walk to the end of Via di Fiera Vecchia. You will pass, on your left, a branch of the University of Siena.At the end of this street, on your left, is the beautiful marble façade of the Chiesa di San Raimondo del Refugio. Constructed near the end of the sixteenth century, the church was designed in baroque style by a follower of Bernini. The façade was added around the beginning of the seventeenth century, with the shield of the Chigi (a Roman princely family of Sienese descent) done in marble. Inside are beautiful paintings by Domenico di Bartolo, Francesco Vanni, Ventura Salimbeni, and Rutilio Manetti. Some of the paintings in the church depict the life of Saint Galgano, and the sword in the stone.
#6 Il Cigno Bianco Ceramiche
Upon exiting the church, you will be on Via del Refugio (it looks more like a small piazza or a parking lot). Walk up this street away from the church until you reach Via Roma and turn right.As you walk up the street, you will pass another branch of the University of Studies of Siena on your right. Arriving at number 7 in Via Roma, you will be at Il Cigno Bianco Ceramiche (White Crane Ceramics). Stop, look around, and maybe purchase a Sienese souvenir.Via Roma becomes Via di Pantaneto upon passing Via dell’Oliviera. At the intersection, you will see one of the many columns with the symbol of Siena, a She-wolf with the twins Senio and Ascanio.
#7 Chiesa di San Maurizio
Continue up the street on Via di Pantaneto through the Porta all’Arco, an arch across the street between two houses.Immediately after the Porta all’Arco, on your right, at number 143, there is a new small supermarket, Conad, where you can shop for groceries and household items.On your right is Piazza Samoreci, a small opening in the street. At the end of this piazza is the Chiesa di San Maurizio (Church of Saint Maurice). You might notice the only part of this ancient church still visible is the façade with the main entrance sealed closed. The first mention of this church is found in 1064. It housed a parish throughout the Middle Ages but was deconsecrated in 1785, sold to a cooper (someone who makes wooden casks and metal hoops), and became a storehouse.
#8 Alimentari
Continue along Via di Pantaneto.At number 127, there is an Alimentari, where you can buy food and some already prepared dishes, such as lasagna, cannelloni, meatballs, etc. At number 121, at the corner with Via dei Pispini, is Forno Sclavi, where you can buy slices of pizza or many kinds of bread. Try some Tuscan bread or any of the Sienese specialties to get a real Italian experience.
#9 Chiesa di San Giorgio
Continue moving up Via di Pantaneto, crossing over Via dei Pispini, and you will arrive at Chiesa di San Giorgio (Church of Saint George). It’s claimed by the Unicorn Contrada, but it is right at the border between the two contrade.Chiesa di San Giorgio was reconstructed in 1741 on a preexisting edifice from the thirteenth century. It’s named after the holy warrior who serves as patron of the cavalry. It stopped being a parish in 1585 and was used to house the congregation of secular priests known as the Sacro Chiodo (Sacred Nail), founded by Matteo Guerra. One of the main goals of this order was service toward the poor and sick. After the order was dissolved by decree of Pope Alexander VII, the church was given to the archbishop to house the Diocese Seminary. However, the edifice was reconsecrated in 1731.On the left altar is Gesù al Calvario (Jesus at Calvary), a work by Francesco Vanni. On the main altar is a depiction of Saint George done by Sebastiano Conca. There are also works by Vincenzo Meucci (a depiction of Saint Carlo Borromeo), Raffaello Vanni (Christ falling under the cross), and Placido Costanzi (Il Divino Pastore, or The Divine Pastor). On each side of the main altar are the sepulchres of Cardinal Anton Felice Zondadari (on the right) and his brother, the archbishop of Siena, Alessandro Zondadari (on the left).
#10 Chiesa di Santo Spirito
Upon exiting the church and with your back to it, turn left onto Via di Pantaneto and then left onto Via dei Pispini. At number 3, there is a small post office. Keep walking until you reach Piazza Santo Spirito. Chiesa di Santo Spirito (Church of the Holy Spirit) resides in this square.Chiesa di Santo Spirito was constructed in 1498 on a preexisting edifice. A 1519 stone portal attributed to Baldassarre Peruzzi, and paid for by the bishop of Pienza, Girolamo Piccolomini, adorns it. Francesco di Giorgio Martini designed the layout of the church. A dome erected between 1504 and 1508, in a design attributed to Giacomo Cozzarelli, and fully paid for by Pandolfo Petrucci, completes the structure. The interior was refurbished in 1921.As you enter, on the left is the chapel of the Spaniards with three frescoes by Sodoma: Saint Sebastian, Saint Anthony, and Saint James of Compostella. The altarpiece, also by Sodoma, presents Saint Nicola from Tolentino and Saint Michael the archangel. In the second chapel is a wooden statue by Giacomo Cozzarelli, representation of Saint Vincent Ferreri. The third chapel displays the Coronation of Maria by Beccafumi, and in the fourth chapel there’s a representation of Saint Giacinto by Francesco Vanni (on the altar) and stories of Saint Giacinto by Ventura Salimbeni (on the walls). Tiles on the sides of the main altar display images of four saints, while the basin of the apse has a fresco of the Pentecost by Giuseppe Nasini. Other decorations include the Crucifixion by Sano di Pietro, the Madonna and child by Andrea Vanni, a statue of Saint Catherine by Cozzarelli, and L’Assunta con San Francesco e Santa Caterina (Our Lady of the Assumption with Saint Francis and Saint Catherine) by Matteo Balducci.
#11 Hidden Park
Exit the church and turn right, then turn right again so that you are on the side of the church.You will find a hidden park on this side of the church. Enjoy the trails that will lead you down a small ravine. Midway you will notice some stone “tracks” where you can play barberi, traditional toy balls or marbles carved out of wood and painted with the colors of each contrada. You can race them down this track to see which contrada wins. Can you identify all the colors? You can purchase them at any local souvenir shop.
#12 Contrada stalla and museo della Nicchio
Exiting the park by the way you came in, head back toward Via dei Pispini, and turn left onto it. Head down the street until you reach number 56.At number 56, you’ll find the stalla (horse stall), where they house the contrada horse prior to the Palio race. Here the horse is fed and groomed in preparation for the race. Ultimately, the horse will also be taken into the nearby Chiesa di San Gaetano, the oratory of the Contrada (which you’ve already passed in your walk) and blessed before the running of the Palio.At numbers 68–70, you’ll find the museo della Nicchio. Members of the Contrada began discussing the idea of a museum in 1914, but World War I stopped the project. In 1926, plans were finally undertaken, and the museo was built sometime later. Restored in 1952, a local paper called it one of best contrada headquarters of all the Contrade of Siena. In 1979, the contrada decided to update the museum, making it more sophisticated. The museum is split into two levels: the first contains the prizes won by the contrada, while the second contains old uniforms and ancient vestments of the church.
The End
This is the end of your walk! We hope you enjoyed it. To return to the city center, retrace your steps on Via dei Pispini until you come to Via di Pantaneto. Turn right and continue up the hill, and you will come back to the center of the city.
