Introduction
Historical BackgroundAlthough the exact date of formation is unknown for the Forest Contrada, the history of the contrade of Siena can be grouped into three major phases. During the first phase (dating from about ad 1000), the city was divided into districts. Each district was responsible for collecting taxes, maintaining streets, and protecting the gates and walls of its area. The second phase, which occurred shortly after the first phase, involved the creation of military companies for each district. And finally, during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, these districts gave way to the contrade we see today. In 1730, the official boundaries of the contrade were set.The Forest Contrada was formed around the fifteenth century from three districts: San Giovanni, Porta Salaia, and Vallepiatta. Each of these districts was well known for its dynamic presence in public life. Historically, each was rich in palaces, churches, and industrious citizens, and the union of these districts into the Forest Contrada was seen as very fruitful. This was the contrada of huntsmen; the Sienese army got its best archers from the Forest Contrada. Its symbol is a rhinoceros with strength and power.During the sixteenth century, as the Palio became more popular, the Forest began to actively participate in the horse race. Since then, the Forest has won the Palio a total of thirty-seven times. Its first recorded win was on 9 September 1685, and in modern times, on 2 July 2010. The Forest lost to the Panther in 1745 when a member of that contrada stepped onto the race track and stopped the Forest’s jockey (who was in the lead). The loss resulted in a bitter rivalry between the two contrade. In 1786, Sienese city officials gave the Chiesa dei Tessitori (Church of the Weavers or San Sebastian’s Church), previously the seat of the Forest Contrada, to the Panther and the feud continued for almost the next hundred years. By the 1900s, however, the rivalry had died down, and today the Forest Contrada is without adversary contrade.
#1 Costarella dei Barbieri
Begin in Piazza del Campo. With your back to Palazzo Pubblico, walk toward the upper left corner of the piazza. Stop at the entrance of the large opening on the piazza called Costarella dei Barbieri and do not leave the piazza yet.Costarella dei Barbieri marks where the Palio starts and ends twice a year, on 2 July and 16 August. The starting moment of the horse race, the mossa or the “move,” is regulated by several laws and rules. This is a good place to stand if you are here for the Palio.
#2 Via di Città
Now walk uphill on this costarella (short, but steep entrance) to leave the piazza.When you are at the top, turn around and enjoy one of the most beautiful views of Siena’s main square. A photo from this angle would be very appropriate. As you turn away from the piazza and back to the street, on the corner to your right is Gelateria Brivido, the most expensive and fanciest gelateria in Siena. (If you are tempted to get a treat, you are advised to wait until you come upon a shop with more reasonable prices; this one caters to tourists taking photos of the piazza, as you just did.) Instead, continue on, and note that you are now on Via di Città, a street shared by several contrade: Selva, where we are; Eagle, further up on the left, and Owl, further down on the right. If you stand with your back to the piazza, on your right, the left side of the street, where the two arches are, belongs to the Forest and, if you look to your left, the entire street belongs to the Forest up to Chiasso del Bargello and Via delle Campane.By the way, Chiasso del Bargello is a little alley further up on your left that leads off the Via di Città and down into the piazza. Here you can find the Museo della Tortura (or the Museum of European torture during the Middle Ages), with descriptions of the exhibits in several languages including English, German, and French. You may want to consider visiting the museum when you finish your walk, if your stomach is strong enough. This is not for everyone.
#3 Via dei Pellegrini
Retrace your steps to the corner where Gelateria Brivido is located and enter Via dei Pellegrini right ahead of you.As you walk along Via dei Pellegrini, you will see several clothing, antique, and souvenir shops, as well as a few bakeries and gelato shops. Most of these shops, like many in Siena, close around 7:00–8:00 p.m. each evening.On your left, at number 5 is a souvenir store, I Colonnini di Casini Claudio. Here you will find stationery, books, and other gifts for men and women.At number 9, you will see Il Casale, where they sell household items made from olive wood, handmade fabrics, and other handcrafted objects. You will find beautiful woven linens with traditional designs, as well as wooden spoons, bowls, cutting boards, etc.At number 11 is La Fabbrica delle Candele, where you will see how they can change a simple piece of wax into a beautiful candle right in front of your eyes. Everything is handmade, in beautiful colors and shapes, transformed into a unique and personalized item. You can find candles in baroque style, hand painted, in animal shapes, sea-themed shapes, etc. The pigments they use for colors are natural, so they are not toxic if you burn the candle. The final step in the manufacturing is a glaze of lacquer, which makes the candle washable in cold water and yet burns normally if lit.Itinera di Duccio D’Aniello, at number 17, sells antique books, maps, and prints.If you are hungry, nearby at number 19 you can grab a pizza al volo (pizza on the run) or other typical dishes to enjoy as you walk or to take home ready to eat.At #20, you’ll find Nino and Friends, a chocolate shop with a visual feast of delectable chocolate waterfalls prominently displayed near the store entrance.Dolci e Cantine is a Tuscan food and wine shop at number 24. They also make cantucci, panforte, ricciarelli, and other local delicacies.Il Magnifico bakery and pizzeria is at number 27. If you buy their typical Sienese products, you will not only enjoy great flavors, but you will also encounter the local history of peasants and land workers whose cuisine reflected their low economic status. As sugar was too expensive, they used honey as a sweetener. They also mixed many fruits, anise seeds, walnuts, etc. in foods. Black pepper was included in the traditional Pane dei Morti o dei Santi (Bread with Saints) for the 1 November All Saint’s holiday. And, of course, the bakery sells cantucci, panforte, and ricciarelli.
#4 Ristorante San Desiderio
On your left across from Nino and Friends, you will soon see Via di Monna Agnese. Turn left up this street. You will come to a small piazza, called Piazzetta Luigi Bonelli.On your left, you will see Ristorante San Desiderio, which serves authentic Tuscan cuisine. This restaurant is housed in what used to be the Chiesa di San Desiderio, which was first mentioned in a document dated 1012. Note the medieval fresco above the doorway and the ouline of the old church roofline, still visible but incorporated into later architecture.This is one of the few Romanesque buildings in Siena, used in 1230 as a recruitment center for the city’s army. Then at the end of the thirteenth century, it housed the department of medicine and philosophy of the University of Siena. In the seventeenth century, it became a seminary, and then became the church of San Desiderio, serving as the gathering place of the Forest Contrada (1787–1811) after their previous gathering place, San Sebastiano, was given to the Panther Contrada. In 1798, an earthquake damaged the church. It was restored, and in 1811 was used as a warehouse and finally as a restaurant—quite a story for this building. Inside, you can still see the church’s old columns, a bell, and a smaller bell on the wall. It deserves at least a quick stop.
#5 Via di Monna Agnese
Continue across the piazzetta and head up the Via di Monna Agnese (Lady Agnes’ Street).The name Via di Monna Agnese comes from Agnes d’Affrettato, who established a hospital here in 1270. This small hospital, dedicated to helping the poor and the sick, remained independent for more than two centuries and always under the direction of women. They specialized in childbirth, an aspect of medical care overlooked in medieval times. This institution was a witness to Sienese women’s social initiatives and a level of independence unusual for women of that period.
#6 La Madonna (The Virgin Mary)
Head up this steep street and you will find yourself in a little square next to the Duomo. To your left is the arch leading into the Piazza del Duomo, which is in the territory of the Eagle Contrada. To your right you will notice a building with a fresco of La Madonna (the Virgin Mary), covered in glass.Siena has a special relationship with the La Madonna (the Virgin Mary). The city was dedicated to her before the battle of Montaperti against Florence in 1260; though the Sienese were greatly outnumbered, they defeated the Florentine army, and attributed their victory to the Virgin. Since then, Siena has been rededicated to the Virgin Mary, most recently in 1944, as a protection from the Allied bombs in WWII. These shrines to Mary are typical for Siena and can be found throughout its streets; as you walk around, make sure you look up on the walls of the houses lining the streets.Somewhere here is the exit from the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. The last room in the museo is the beautiful baroque church of San Niccolò in Sasso. The word sasso means “gravel,” and this hill in Siena has a lot of gravel, as you will notice later during the walk. This was very likely a by-product from constructing Il Duomo.You will admire this church when you tour the museo, or right now, if you happen to get a glimpse through the exit while people are leaving the museo. Interestingly, the museo has turned the church into a gift shop, so many visitors do not notice the soaring ceiling décor because they are excited about buying souvenirs.
#7 Cripta del Duomo
In front of you is a flight of steps leading down to Piazza San Giovanni. Cross the little square and head down these steps. As you head down the first part of the steps, you will see a door on your left. This door leads to the cripta del Duomo (crypt of the Duomo).Discovered in 1999, the cripta del Duomo and opened to the public in 2003. This is one of the most exciting discoveries in the last twenty years. Built around the same time as the Duomo, the crypt was filled with debris and closed for nearly seven hundred years until it was rediscovered. It is now known for its beautiful frescoes, which have remained vibrant and colorful after all these years because they were untouched. Some of the frescoes include the Annunciation, the Visitation, Nativity, Kiss of Judas, Crucifixion, and the Entombment of Christ. The artists of these frescoes are unknown, but probably included Dietisalvi di Speme, Guido di Graziano, and Rinaldo da Siena, all of whom may have been assisted by a young Duccio di Buoninsegna, the artist who created the famous Maestà and the rose window of the Duomo. The crypt is mentioned in the popular modern fiction, Juliet by Anne Fortier.
#8 Battistero del Duomo
As you reach the bottom of the steps, you will enter the piazza San Giovanni on your left, where the battistero del Duomo (baptistery of the Duomo) is located. Unlike the Duomo of Florence and many other cities, the baptistery of Siena’s Duomo is not separate from the Duomo; rather, it’s built underneath it and holds the floor of the cathedral’s choir seats.Camaino di Crescentino completed the battistero del Duomo between 1316 and 1325 (about 100 years after work on the cathedral began). The exterior of the baptistery is in Gothic style, based on drawings attributed to Mino del Pellicciaio. Execution of his plans began in 1385, but unfortunately, they were never finished; the very top of the baptistery’s apse was never covered. Inside the baptistery, the most precious piece is the baptismal font dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Some of the most important Renaissance sculptors of the time, including Donatello, Ghiberti, and Jacopo della Quercia created each panel and the surrounding statues. Tickets for the baptistery can be included when you purchase a ticket for the Duomo.The piazza San Giovanni contains several art and ceramic shops, as well as bakeries. It’s a common gathering place for the Forest Contrada during festivals and times of celebration. Take a few minutes to look around. Gift Shop 5 is a gift and ceramic shop near the steps up to the Duomo. While in the shop, take care if you are wearing a backpack; swinging around suddenly should be avoided at all costs (less there be a cost to you when you accidentally break something while walking and looking through the narrow aisles). We’ve invited you in here to find the ancient cave which once served as a hide-out from the palazzo up above it.
#9 Ceramic shops
Face the baptistery and head up the street immediately to the right, Via dei Fusari. This street runs parallel to the Duomo, and the end of the street leads right into the Piazza del Duomo.As you continue on Via dei Fusari, you will pass several ceramic shops.Italy began producing ceramics around the fourteenth century, and by the sixteenth century, small towns like Deruta (near Perugia) and Montelupo Fiorentino (near Florence) had become famous for their ceramics. Until the 1990s, ceramic shops in Siena generally imported their ceramics from those towns, but later local artists began founding their own ceramic shops. Ceramics in Siena are generally inspired by the contrada in which they’re located and sometimes include the famous Siena pattern of black and white stripes.
#10 Libreria Catechisica
Near the end of Via dei Fusari at number 19, you will pass the Ristorante il Duomo, another Tuscan-style restaurant.The menu of Ristorante il Duomo changes according to the seasons, but it boasts all homemade, authentic Tuscan meals.Across the street from Ristorante il Duomo, at number 16, is Libreria Catechisica, bookstore that’s the equivalent of Deseret Book, but for Catholics. Go inside and look at the art and books.
#11 Santa Maria della Scala
At number 48, next to the bookstore, you will notice an interesting carving above the door.The sign on the door states that it is an “ambulatory,” a sort of health care center specializing in outpatient care. The sign above the door features a person lying on a bed, underneath a ladder. This symbol is that of Siena’s ancient hospital, Santa Maria della Scala (Saint Mary of the Ladder), located in Piazza del Duomo. The ladder represents ascension into heaven or a connection between heaven and earth.
#12 Chiesa di San Sebastiano nel Vallepiatta
Straight ahead, at the end of Via dei Fusari, you will notice a set of steps underneath an arch. Head down these steps; this is the Vicolo di San Girolamo, and it will lead you to the Piazzetta della Selva, where the headquarters of the Forest are located. As you reach the bottom of the steps, the San Sebastiano, the church of the Contrada della Selva, will be right in front of you.In 1492, the weavers of the Contrada Vallepiatta (Flat-Valley Contrada), which would later merge with two other contrade to create the present-day Forest) sought permission to build a church dedicated to their patron saint, Saint Sebastian. Construction on Chiesa di San Sebastiano nel Vallepiatta began in 1493, probably under the direction of Francesco di Giorgio Martini, who also executed a polychrome stucco and terracotta bas-relief of the Madonna of the Forest placed above the main altar.Although the church was functioning by March 1514, it wasn’t completed until the mid-sixteenth century. The front of the church remains unfinished, as very old buildings in Siena often do, except for its portal framed in travertine. Decorated with frescoes by Piero Sorri, Giovan Paolo Pisani, Raffaello Vanni, and Astolfo Petrazzi, the church is in a Greek cross shape. During the Palio, the horse and jockey of the Forest are brought to this church to be blessed, then the priest sends them away with the traditional command: “Go and return victorious!”
#13 Fontana della Contrada Selva
Across from the church, you will notice the fontana della Contrada Selva built into the wall.The fontana della Contrada Selva, created by Vinicio Guastatori, was inaugurated in 1965. It features a rhinoceros (chosen because it symbolizes strength and the wild) amid live trees. Children born into the Forest and others wishing to join are baptized into the contrada in this fountain.
#14 Museo del Selva
Across from the fountain at number 5 is the headquarters of the Forest Contrada, located next to the church.Within the headquarters or sede (seat) della Contrada (in the cripta di San Sebastiano) is the Museo del Selva, in rooms that housed a Jesuit convent in the past. The Forest’s palios are displayed here, as well as civil and religious artifacts of the contrada, including historic uniforms and flags. Visits to the museum are by appointment only.
#15 Società del Rinoceronte
If you are facing the contrada headquarters and the Chiesa di San Sebastiano, the street you will take next is to your right, on the other side of the square, Via di Vallepiatta. When you first enter this street, you will see a public water fountain with a wolf head spigot. Whenever you see these wolf head fountains in Siena, feel free to refill your water bottle, the water is safe to drink. Head down this street, and at number 26 you will see the headquarters of the Società del Rinoceronte (Society of the Rhinoceros), whose official name is the Società della Contrada della Selva.The Società del Rinoceronte was founded in 1876 by members of the contrada who wished to care for local young people who could not care for themselves because of age or illness. Richer members donated money to the society, which in turn distributed it to those in need. After WWI, as social security and insurances began to do the same thing, the Società del Rinoceronte became more of a recreational group, putting on dancing and bingo games for the people of the contrada. The society moved to their current location in 1992.
#16 Via del Costone
Continue down the Via Vallepiatta. This street is named after the Contrada Vallepiatta (Flat-valley Contrada), a place of weavers that later became part of the Contrada della Selva. As youcontinue along the street, you will see another street on your left with an escalator, which comes up from the outside city parking lot. This street is called the Via del Costone (Way of the Ridge), and leads down to the Fontebranda. Take a left down this street. Pass the escalator and stop as you reach the chained barriers that lead down to the Fontebranda. On your right is the alley Vicolo di Vallepiatta.To your left at number 3, is a door with a small sign that reads Teatro del Costone. This is the theatre of the Costone, a local recreational center, which puts on plays throughout the year and has acting classes for children. The Costone also has a basketball court and soccer field, and organizes basketball teams for men, women, and children. Costone hosts Siena’s professional female basketball team.Up the alley named Vicolo di Vallepiatta, and at number 10 on your left, is the Centro Socio Culturale La Tuberosa—a small cultural center known for its bocce court and jazz concerts.
#17 Fresco di Santa Caterina
Now walk through the barriers and continue down the street as it leads steeply to the Fontebranda. You will soon see a fresco of Santa Caterina (Saint Catherine) on the wall to your left. The street will turn sharply to the right. Keep following it.Legend says that Santa Caterina (Saint Catherine) had her first vision on Via del Costone, in which she saw Jesus sitting on a throne above the basilica (now Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico), surrounded by Saint Peter, Saint Paul, and Saint John. Catherine later understood this vision to mean that she should embrace the Dominican Order. In the eighteenth century, the Sienese had this fresco commissioned to commemorate this vision. Restored several times since its creation, most recently in 1972 by Enzo Cesarini, the fresco was later covered with glass, and Italian replaced the original Latin inscription. While you’re here, look across the ravine to see the basilica as Saint Catherine saw it.
#18 Macelli
As you continue down this street, it will curve to the left and deposit you in front of the Fontebranda, on the street with the same name. (Please refer to the Goose Contrada for a description of this important fountain.) Via Fontebranda continues to your left all the way to the outer city walls, and on your right, it will bring you back all the way to Via di Città. Turn right on this street. The left side belongs to the Goose; the right side, which consists today of a few shops and restaurants and a park near the city walls, belongs to the Forest.This area is called Macelli (slaughterhouses) after the macellai (butchers), who used to keep shop in this area. Now, because of a population boom in the Goose Contrada, and because the area is used for public functions, disputes have arisen, as the Goose Contrada has laid claim to this area as well.
#19 Porta Salaria
Now head all the way up on Via di Fontebranda.As you approach an arched tunnel ahead, notice on your right some University of Siena student housing (look for the sign) at numbers 43–51. You will notice many windowsills with students’ shoes airing out.You will pass under the arch spanning the Via di Fontebranda, which is called Porta Salaria. “Salaria” refers to salt, but it’s also the word from which we derive our word for “salary.” Salt itself was often used as currency in Roman and medieval times. Porta Salaria derived its name from the taxes that were paid to enter the city through this gate.
#20 Plaque in Latin
When you arrive in Via di Città, turn left.On the wall to the left, a plaque in Latin describes a time in 1764 when the butchers on Via Beccheria collectively restored the shops on the streets. The following year in Tuscany brought a new age for commerce.
#21 Teatro dei Rozzi
Continue along Via di Città, past Via Beccheria, and turn left down the Via delle Terme. The left half of this street belongs to the Forest. You will pass a bar on your left and come upon piazza dell’Indipendenza.Look around and at number 15, you will see a beautiful building that hosts the Teatro dei Rozzi. Many things in Siena have a long history and tradition, this theatre included. Its beginnings stretch back to 1531 when a group of artists formed a society called the Congrega dei Rozzi. This society became an academy in 1690 and would eventually become an important cultural institution in Siena. One of the goals of this artistic academy was to refine some of the folk arts (chiefly theatre and literature) into something more civilized. They adopted the emblem of a cork tree with the phrase Chi qui soggiorna acquista quel che perde, which literally means, “He who sojourns here gains that which he loses.” In Italian, this refers to a subtle play on words: The word rozzo means “rough” or “crude,” but it is also in the name of the academy—Accademia dei Rozzi. Thus, if an uncivilized (rough) person were to stay with this academy, he would lose his roughness (become cultured) but would become one of the Rozzi.Inaugurated in 1817, and renovated several times, Teatro dei Rozzi remained open until 1945 when it closed because of damage inflicted during World War II. In 1998, it was finally reopened after another complete renovation. While in Siena, you may want to check their current productions. Tickets are cheap, and if you have a Dante Alighieri card, you get a discount.
#22 Via di Diacceto
Now continue into the piazza, and there will be a street on your left called the Via di Diacceto. Turn left down this street.Via di Diacceto takes its name from the diaccereor ghiaccere, which were pits dug out of the tufa stone of Siena and filled with compacted snow in the winter months. This snow would last longer and be used as ice during the warmer months of the year.
#23 Early Sienese Architecture
Walk along this street and you will cross a bridge over the Via Fontebranda, where you were a few minutes ago. The bridge over the Via Fontebranda dates to 1175 and offers a wonderful view of the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico on your right.On the building to your left is a faded sign for the ancient hotel La Scala, which offered hospitality to travelers to Siena for many years. The Osteria della Scala (Tavern of the Stairway) is mentioned in the 1660s and was in operation in the 1700s. It eventually became an inn—complete with horse stables in the back— and lasted until the days of World War II. Today, it only exists in memory, but we know it occupied Via di Diacceto 12 or Piazza San Giovanni across from the baptistery. Legend says its name comes from the marble stairway that stretches from here up to Via Monna Agnese. You may still see the big reddish-color painted sign with its name on the back of the building.
#24 Vicolo delle Carrozze
Continue up the street and turn right on the Vicolo delle Carrozze.Vicolo delle Carrozze, now considered one of the characteristic alleyways of Siena, used to be rather dangerous and harbored criminals, but is now considered safe during daylight hours.
#25 The End
Before the dead-end of this alley, turn left under the covered alleyway and then left again on Via Franciosa. Walk all the way up Via Franciosa and you will find yourself in the piazza San Giovanni once again. Head across the piazza and down to the Via dei Pellegrini.You are now right where you began, at the piazza del Campo.
