#1 Highlights of Madrid
This tour, which will require repeated use of the metro and/or buses, will take you to some of the places that helped define the character of the city. You could visit these places at different times since many of them are on the edge of some of the other walks outlined for you. However, you should not leave Madrid and return home without taking a few minutes to read about these places, to visit them, and to discover other places and times that will bring you fond memories for the rest of your life. As Madrileños are fond of saying: “De Madrid...al cielo” (“from Madrid to heaven,” or better yet, “Madrid is part of heaven!”). You can begin this tour at the most central of all places in Spain and Madrid, both literally and symbolically, La Puerta del Sol.The magnificent and delightful city of Madrid is of humble medieval origins. Historically, it was at one time a military outpost of the Muslim kingdom of Toledo, placed strategically as part of a string of military outposts to protect the south side of the Sierra de Guadarrama from marauding Christians to the north. During the Reconquista, it eventually fell in 1084 to King Alfonso VI of Castile. But it did not rise out of provincial obscurity until 1561, when King Felipe II chose the site to become the center of his empire. Perhaps Felipe chose Madrid over other cities in Castile with more history, influence, and ambience because he did not have to contend with an uppity nobility.During the 17th century, Madrid started to undergo transformations in order to accommodate the growing needs of the royal court. During the 18th century, the city was brought up to the standards of the more progressive Bourbons who created new streets and monumental buildings. The city continued to grow and transform during the 19th century, which saw a foreign invasion, rebellions, wars at home and abroad, the beginnings of a sputtering democracy, the advent of the automobile and of electricity, all of which necessitated profound changes. The combination of these changes would bring Madrid to the level of other European capitals. Besides the physical changes, Madrid increasingly became the cultural, political, and financial center of the country. Political crises and pronouncements also took center stage in this city: from the Motín de Esquilache, a popular rebellion (against an Italian-born minister of Carlos III) in the 18th century which eventually triggered the expulsion of the Jesuit order from Spanish territories, to the more recent Tejerazo of 1981 (when a conservative group of Civil Guard officers attempted a coup d’état by bursting into the Parliament in an attempt to turn back the clock of democracy).
#2 Puerta del Sol
The name Puerta del Sol comes from the fact that there used to be a gate that faced the morning sun in the wall on this east side of the old city. The gate was demolished in 1566. The plaza is now mostly a pedestrian zone bursting with life, tourism, and commercialism. Enjoy the ambience, but watch your belongings and your pockets, it is a favorite haunt of pick-pockets and small-time thieves who are so skillful that you won’t know you have been robbed until much later. Literally, the plaza is the center of Madrid and all of Spain. On the south side of the Puerta at the edge of the sidewalk, there is a marker in front of the building housing the Comunidad de Madrid, the main building on the plaza (where there are usually Guardia Civiles standing at the entrance). This marker is kilometer 0 from which all mileage in Spain is measured. The plaza is also symbolically the center of Madrid. It lies about half way between the Plaza Mayor to the southeast (the heart of the older part of Madrid), the Grand Via to the north (the most vibrant shopping street of the city), the Royal Palace to the west, and the museums quarter to the east. The main streets that converge on the plaza: Alcalá, Mayor, Carrera de San Jerónimo, have been and continue to be the scene of important historical events. The building housing the Comunidad de Madrid used to be a post office. Originally built in 1768 in a combination of white stone and brick, it has a beautiful triangular frontispiece with a heraldic shield, lions and trophies. The clock tower that was added in 1866 has made the Puerta del Sol the Spanish equivalent of Times Square. Every New Year’s Eve, or “nochevieja,” thousands come to this spot “a tomar las uvas,” a custom in which 12 grapes are consumed while counting down the last seconds of the “año viejo” as the golden ball that crowns the clock descends. The action is broadcast live by television all over Spain and in many Spanish speaking areas overseas. The grapes are guaranteed to assure you a year free from problems and with assured good luck. In 1859, the space across from this building was remodeled and built as you see now with a concave appearance of similar five-story buildings and wrought iron balconies, very French in style. The Puerta del Sol is the area where the famous uprisings against the French, so vividly painted by Goya, took place. During the tenure of Franco, that same building was used until 1985 by the General Division of Security and therefore it has many unhappy memories for many people. Then, in 1986 changes were made, including opening up more space for pedestrians. More recently, the plaza was again refurbished and closed to almost all motorized traffic. The result is a space free from traffic and with an innovative glass dome to access the metro. The plaza contains three famous statues. The most obvious one is the statue of Carlos III, called “el alcalde de Madrid “. Now the famous statue of La Mariblanca, a representation of Venus, graces the western end of the plaza. Near the beginning of Calle de Alcalá, on the eastern end of the plaza stands perhaps the most widely recognizable symbol of Madrid, the statue of a bear eating from a madroño tree. You may want to make your day even better by topping off your walk with a visit to a typical hot chocolate shop. Chocolate was introduced from the New World to Europe by Spain, so there is a long history of Spanish chocolate. A good hot chocolate in Spain will keep a spoon standing upright in the middle of the cup and be rich and flavorful. The Chocolatería de San Ginés, a small but delightful piece of Madrid’s history, was founded in 1890, and even though it has been remodeled, it still retains the lovely atmosphere for which it is famed, with its old, polished wood and white marble. Weather permitting, you can enjoy your hot chocolate in the open air. To reach the Chocolatería, leave Puerta del Sol by Calle Arenal and walk down the left-hand side and walk two short blocks to a small passage way, called Pasadizo de San Ginés. Turn left into this narrow street (there is a discotheque now on the corner in place of a previous theater), and where the street bends to the right in #5 you will find the Chocolatería de San Ginés. The shop opens after 4 o’clock and stays open, in good Spanish tradition, through the night. Traditionally, theater goers and all-night revelers would come by before going home and have this thick, delicious chocolate with hot churros. You need to pay at the upstairs counter if you go downstairs, and if you want some added whipped cream in your chocolate, ask for nata. There is nothing as good as this on a cold night, or even if it is not that cold! The price is reasonable for Europe and you will be making a great memory.
#3 Puerta de Toledo
You have already seen the Puerta de Alcalá and if you have done the Museums of Madrid walk, you know where the Puerta Cerrada used to be, but there are a few more that you need to visit to get a complete feel for the city. The first one is the Puerta de Toledo. Take metro #5 (the green line) to the metro stop called Puerta de Toledo, and exit to the surface. This great intersection deserves a serious look first and then afterwards you can check out the many shops that sell pastries, sweets, drinks, etc.As with all strategically important cites and many lesser places, Madrid was surrounded by a protective city wall. Entrance to the city was by one of the gates that could be closed at night or during times of trouble. The fewer the gates, the more secure the city. As the city began to grow, new walls were built to enclose new living quarters. New walls meant creating new city gates. When city walls became defensively obsolete because of new military tactics in the 19th century, cities like Madrid that kept up with the times eventually dismantled the remains of the city walls. Yet the physical layout of the cities that the walls and the city gates had necessitated continued to influence the design of the cities.Since at least the 15th century on there had been a city gate at this site that allowed entrance and exit to all directions to the south. In 1625, in times of Felipe IV, a city gate was built as part of the road to Toledo. The location of that door was a little closer to the town, in the Calle de Toledo. During the 18th century, the foreign invader Jose Bonaparte, wanted to give the city a more dignified appearance to the royal road to Andalucía, and therefore chose this spot to place a new gate. Plans were drawn up and approved, but the ouster of the French caused the plans to be shelved. With the return of the Bourbon King Fernando VII, new plans were approved and a triumphal arch was begun. Made of granite, it took ten years to build, from 1817 to 1827. The inscription is dedicated to the king. Crowning the north side you can see the shield of Madrid supported by children, and on the side arches there are military trophies.Today, the gate is in the center of a Glorieta (or round-about) and therefore is no longer used as a gate. To protect the structure, no traffic is allowed to pass through it. Unfortunately, due to the work done underground, the foundations of the center arch have been less stable and the arch has become slightly deformed. As indicated, by the time of the construction of the Puerta de Toledo, city gates and walls had lost their military significance and therefore had become more monumental than useful. Perhaps for this reason, this magnificent city gate was the last of the gates to Madrid to have been built.
#4 Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande
From this spot, if you are in the mood for a walk to the next listed site to visit—the Real Basilica San Francisco el Grande—you can walk the Gran Vía de San Francisco to this large church, whose dome figures so prominently in many of Goya’s paintings of the Madrid’s skyline. It is not really very far. There are of course other ways to get to this wonderful church, but none that are shorter or more scenic.The Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande, a spectacular neo-classical building, has had a difficult existence. The original foundation is supposed to have been started by the well-known saint, Saint Francis of Assisi (from present day Italy) in the 13th century. In 1760, the friars decided to have a new church built. The plans underwent several revisions but the church was finally finished with the help of several architects, including Francesco (or Francisco) Sabatini, the architect of Carlos III. The cupola, measuring 33 meters in diameter, is considered the third largest in the world. The unusual size proved problematic from the beginning and therefore the cupola alone has needed several revisions. The great basilica has also underwent many alterations. During the French occupation it served first as an army barracks and then as a hospital. After the French were forced out of Spain, the friars took possession of it again. In 1836, during the period of desamortización, or nationalization of the properties of the Catholic Church (among others), the building became property of the state. Several attempts were made to alter the usage, including a proposal to turn the basilica into a national pantheon for famous Spaniards. In 1876, the building underwent a major restoration and was again open to the public. Finally in 1926, King Alfonso XIII returned possession of it to the Franciscan monks.This monumental church has undergone several important restorations over the years, but its stunning interior beauty and artwork remain intact. The church has a circular floor plan under the great rotunda, flanked by the large scale statues of the 12 apostles. The interior also has seven chapels for individual worship. Some of the most famous painters and sculptors of Spain have work displayed this church, including Francisco de Goya.
#5 Catedral da Sta María la Real de la Almudena
Walking out of the church and turning left takes you up the Calle Bailén toward the Catedral de la Almudena. If you feel more adventurous, just as you get to the bridge that spans a deep ravine (which you cross during the “Medieval Madrid” walk), turn left into the small street called Calle Morería, with buildings on the left and the ravine on the right. You will go by a very large prestigious school and seminary on the left (attended by some of the royal children), done in the red brick neo-mudéjar style that was very popular at the beginning of the 20th century. Eventually you will arrive at a small park and gardens on the right called Jardines de las Vistillas. The name refers to the fantastic views down towards the green spaces of the Parque del Campo del Moro and beyond; it will almost seem for a moment that you are not in a great urban space, but looking at a pastoral landscape.Though a little neglected, this is the site of many outdoor public concerts, local celebrations, and evening entertainment during spring and summer.Catedral da Sta María la Real de la Almudena (known also as the Catedral de la Almudena) is the present cathedral of Madrid, but it was not always so. In the beginning, the old Jesuit church in the Calle Toledo, which had become the final resting place of the body of San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid since at least the 17th century, served as the cathedral of Madrid; it is still known as the “old cathedral.”The idea of building a different cathedral was conceived during the reign of Felipe II in the 16th century, but the notion was completely opposed by the powerful Archbishop of Toledo. Again during the 17th century, Felipe IV encountered the same opposition, but because Madrid became its own diocese in the 19th century, the establishment of a cathedral was possible, but construction did not begin immediately.During the brief reign (ten years) of Alfonso XII, it was decided that Madrid needed a fitting complement to the city. Construction was finally begun in 1870 in the historic Gothic revival style favored at the time. The original architect, the Marques de Cubas, died in 1899, having finished only the crypt in neo-Romanesque style. After being married for about a year, Alfonso XII’s wife, Maria de las Mercedes, died. The heart-broken young king mourned her death and sought a fitting burial spot for her. With the cathedral nowhere near completion, she was buried in the crypt (the area under the present main floor of the cathedral).During the Spanish Civil War (1936-39), work on the cathedral stopped altogether. Consequently, acompetition was launched in 1944 to devise a design that would harmonize better with the Royal Palace than the original neo-Gothic. The new design, by architects Isidro and Chueca Goitia, followed a classic baroque style which complemented the palace design. Work began once again on the cathedral in 1955, finishing the facade fronting the Royal Palace in a neo-classical revival as well as the roof of the three naves. The cathedral remained as it was until work finally resumed in 1984. Pope John Paul II dedicated the finsihed cathedral in 1993, after over a century of construction.The building has two distinct facades: one facing Calle Bailén in a post-herreriano style (slightly inspired by El Escorial), and the main one which fronts the palace. The cupola brings much light to the interior, especially over the main altar placed at the crossing of the nave and transept. The great crucifix of this altar rests on a base of green marble and combines a sculpture from the XVII century with a modern cross of cedar from Lebanon (made in 1993). On the left of the crucifix (to the west) and at the end of the transept, the deceased Queen Maria de las Mercedes ultimately received the fit resting place that her adoring husband, Alfonso XII, had sought for her. Above her resting place, take note of the altar piece with the original statue of Maria de la Almudena (a medieval icon of the Virgin Mary, patroness of the city) located between the two halves of the original Flemish eighteen-square altar piece.The various side chapels have altars dedicated to different persons, some beatified (beatus is a designation given to a person who has done many saintly deeds, one step below sainthood) and several saints. Of particular note, though, is the last side altar on the left (east side) at the beginning of the nave; there is a very well done modern portrait of the Annunciation. Looking up at the stained glass above the clerestory of the apse, you will notice very modern looking windows that seem strangely out of place. The commission for these was given, amid some controversy, to a person of little artistic training who had a conservative reputation as a member of an active missionary and pastoral group of the church. (These windows were put in place shortly before the 2004 wedding of the present Principe de Asturias, crown prince Felipe.Before leaving the cathedral, note also that the entrance from Calle Bailén has some spectacular bronze doors commissioned specifically for the church; these deserve your attention and admiration.
#6 Plaza de Oriente
Exit to the east side of the Catedral on the Calle de Bailen and head north (toward the palace). The Plaza is just to the east of the Palace, across the Calle de Bailen, in front of the Opera House.This plaza received its name from the fact that it is immediately east of the Royal Palace, built on the site originally occupied by a Moslem fortress, el Alcázar, that had evolved into the royal residence of the Habsburgs. This palace was destroyed by a fire in the 18th century. Because of the importance first of the Alcázar and then of the Royal Palace, the surrounding land was occupied by a series of official structures until the French invasion. When Joseph-Napoléon Bonaparte (known as José I) was made King of Spain in 1806, he cleared the area to the east of the palace to provide a better view from and access to the palace. In 1850, during the reign of Isabel II, the present configuration and embellishments were completed with the erection of several buildings, the center piece being the Teatro Real. These changes, and the building of an underground parking facility later on, led to the destruction of many historical structures, including the house of the painter Velázquez.The equestrian statue of Felipe IV, a great patron of the arts, done by an Italian sculptor in 1640, presides over the layout of the gardens and the fountain. Contiguous with the garden around the statue of Felipe IV, are two other gardens, one to the north and one to the south. In the north one, to the left of the statue, you will see Monumento al heroísmo del Cabo Noval(Coporal Noval), a hero of the war of Morocco (1909). This brave foot soldier warned his companions of an imminent enemy attack, paying the ultimate price to protect them; be sure to read the inscription n the south, to the right, the Gardens of Lepanto (named after a famous Spanish naval victory in the 16th century against the Turks) which includes a children’s playground,. Were you to walk up to the street on the south-east corner of Lepanto, above the playground, you would be in an intersection called Plaza de Ramales. There, a monument marks the spot where the most important Spanish painter of the Golden Age, Diego de Velázquez is supposed to have been buried in a church. But because this area has been excavated and changed several times, the remains of Velázquez were lost. A few years back they excavated again, thinking they had found something, but to no avail.Within the main gardens there are still several statues of early kings of Castile lining the pathways. These statues also have a history. They were originally created to adorn the top of the Palacio Real (Royal Palace). According to tradition, one of the queens had a dream that one of the statues fell down, killing the king. Therefore, they were never put in the place intended and have been placed in several places around Madrid. Some line the gardens of the Retiro Park, some are in this plaza, and some are in the Jardines de Sabatini, on the north side of the Royal Palace that used to be occupied by the royal stables.Plaza de Oriente was the scene of public gatherings during the time of Franco. He used to address his supporters from the center balcony of the palace overlooking the plaza. Because of the exaggerated claims of attendance at such public speeches, many Spaniards used to call this plaza “the rubber plaza” because it would have had to be stretched in order to accommodate the reported thousands who came to listen to Franco.Bordering the north side of the Jardines del Cabo Noval is the Calle San Quintín named after another famous victory over the French in the 16th century. If you follow it, it takes you to the corner with another iconic building of Madrid, the Convento de la Encarnación. This religious house was founded in 1611 under the auspices King Felipe III and it was famous for grand royal ceremonies. It is a beautiful example of the madrileño style of baroque favored by the Habsburgs. The building is now the property of the National Museum system but it still houses nuns. The convent contains several famous relics, including one that is supposed to have the blood of a saint that liquifies on the day celebrating that saint. The street that begins immediately in front of the convent is Calle de la Bola, where you can see a beautiful 18th century building on the left (as seen from the convent) occupied by theReal Academia Nacional de Medicina de España.Back to the Plaza del Oriente, the equestrian statue of Felipe IV faces the Teatro Real. This theater also functions as an opera house (thus the name of the metro stop on the plaza to its rear) and was built on the site of another famous theater which burned down. The present building was opened again to the public in 1997 after a long and careful renovation. The streets that surround the theater have some of the most important stores dealing with musical instruments, including the manufacture of exclusive and much sought-after guitars. The back side of the theater fronts the Plaza de Isabel II.
#7 Palacio Real
Cross the Calle de Bailen to the Palace.The construction of the Palacio Real was oveseen by Giovanni Battista Sacchetti, an Italian architect who reduced the original plan prepared by predecessor and mentor Fillippo Juvarra, so that the palace could be rebuilt in the original location (something not possible given the scale of Juvarra's original plan). The edifice is constructed of materials such as stone, granite, and marble to avoid fires (which had destroyed the previous residence). The main facade faces the south, toward the Plaza de la Armería and the Catedral. The interiors were decorated by famous painters, including Rafael Mengs (who was Goya’s boss for a time) and the Italians Giovanni Battista Tiepolo and Corrado Giaquinto, among others. The north side of the palace (the opposite end from the Plaza de la Armería and the Catedral) has the Sabatini Gardens (built after the Civil War) where the stables used to be. Past the gardens there is a wide street, Cuesta de San Vicente, going downhill towards the former train station called Estación del Norte, now converted into a shopping mall, the Centro Comercial Príncipe Pío, three floors of retail stores and also restaurants. The plaza in front of the Estación del Norte contains the entrances to the metro station Príncipe Pío.The Palacio Real is the most important symbol of the Spanish monarchy, even though the present king does not live there. He has chosen a small and more private setting for his family, a residence called “Zarzuela” in a wooded spot in the general area northwest of Madrid in the zone of El Pardo. The heir to the crown, Prince Felipe, also has a separate residence within those grounds. The present Palacio Real is used now for official occasions only. Felipe V, the first Bourbon king, started the construction, but Carlos III was the first monarch to live in it (in 1764). It remained the royal residence until the departure of Alfonso XIII in 1931 at the beginning of the Second Republic. The palace occupies the spot where, as mentioned, the Alcázar of the Habsburgs used to be, until it burned down on Christmas Eve 1734. When you exit the Principe Pío station, you will see the former railway Estación del Norte. Standing in front of it, with your back to the station, you will see to the left a large round about, the Glorieta de San Vicente with another of the former city gates, the Puerta de San Vicente, dating back to 1726. In that year a marquis asked the famous baroque architect Pedro de Ribera to design a new city gate to replace the older one, Puerta del Parque (named after the large Royal Palace gardens that reach down to this intersection). The new gate was named after San Vincente of Zaragosa, a deacon in the Catholic Church and first martyr of Spain, whose image adorned the archway (if you google his story, it makes interesting, albeit sad, reading). In 1770, and then again in 1775, the architect Francesco Sabatini made several changes to the gate. The gate had a central arch and two side openings, a style reminiscent of la Puerta de Alcalá, also designed by Sabatini. In 1890, to improve traffic flow, traffic was diverted around the gate, as it still is today. The extant door is a reconstruction built with parts of the original and reproduced parts from Sabatini’s changes. Notice the lion’s head and the groupings of musical instruments. The now purely decorative gate was inaugurated again in 1995. If you had time or inclination, and were to walk past the Glorieta and its famous gate, continuing to go west down the Avenida de Portugal, you would come to the Puente del Rey, one of several bridges over the Manzanares River.
#8 Paseo de la Florida
We want to visit the immediate area of this station, so go back to the Plaza de Isabel II behind the Teatro Real to the metro station Opera and take the metro to Principe Pío to see the Paseo de la Florida. Back at the Estación del Norte, if you look to the right you will see the Paseo de la Florida. Walk to your right a few paces until you see the hill behind the former train station. Today the Parque de la Montaña graces the hill. Continue walking down the right side of the Paseo de la Florida, about 9 minutes, until you are a little beyond house number 59 (across the street, on the left side).Where #59 ends there is a small park with a statue of Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes in the middle, all enclosed by the small Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida. Behind the statue is the Puente de la Reina Victoria. The statue of Goya seems to be staring across the street, where you are standing, at the small former chapel of the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida where he is buried.The Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida is a neo-classical jewel built in 1792 in honor of Saint Antonio. This edifice was a popular religious chapel where the people of Madrid could come on the patron saint’s day (June 13), to receive for themselves a small bread roll blessed by the clerics, and where they could also have their pets blessed. San Antonio is also reputed to help single women obtain a suitor. A popular refrain of prayers to the saint is “San Antonio bendito, dame un novio, aunque sea feito,” (“Blessed Saint Anthony, a boyfriend please grant me, even if he’s not good-looking.”)In 1798, the painter Goya was asked to decorate the small chapel. The magnificent frescoes that adorn the ceiling of the chapel refer to a reputed miracle by Saint Anthony. Though the miracle is supposed to have taken place in Lisbon in the 12th century, Goya’s treatment and execution of this theme, done in a contemporary manner, places the miracle among the people of Madrid as they are celebrating this saint's day. He sketched the outlines very quickly and executed the paintings in his typically vigorous style. The frescoes were recently restored so that, once again, the vivid colors sparkle and dazzle the viewers. Amazingly, at the time of this magnificent artistic achievement Goya was 52 years old and suffering from bad health, including a profound deafness that made him dizzy. In tribute to his tenacity and dedication, in 1919, his mortal remains were transported from the city of Bordeaux, France (where he died in 1828), and were buried under the cupola in the building he worked so hard to adorn. In 1928, to protect Goya’s masterpiece, a twin building housing a second church, was erected immediately north of Goya’s final resting place. The original structure now houses a museum.
#9 Moncloa
For the next stop on this tour of the highlights of Madrid you will need to make your way back to the metro stop Principe Pío and take the circular metro, #6, to the Moncloa station, or you could make your way back to the Plaza del Sol and take metro #3 to it.The zone of Moncloa, at the end of Calle Princesa (which starts at the Plaza de España) is a showcase of Franco’s Spain. Here you can get a good idea of how things were before the return to democracy. Moncloa is also the place where the Ciudad Universitaria has several campuses and where the residence of the Prime Minister, the Palacio de la Moncloa, and other government offices are located. At the metro stop Moncloa, exit to the Calle Princesa. As you do, the first building you should notice is the large structure to the west, the Ejército del Aire (Ministry of the Air). Built between 1940 and 1954, it is typical of the ubiquitous architecture that characterized the time period. (Similar styles existed in Germany, Russia and the United States in the 1930s.) It was inspired by El Escorial, the royal palace built by Felipe II, a style and times Franco wished to bring to mind. If you stand above the Arco de la Victory (see below) you will see the clear resemblance to El Escorial. The main facade of the ministry faces east and it was the center of a grand plan to honor military feats. If you stand facing the middle of the front of the Ejército del Aire, you will see on the grounds to the left a monument dedicated to the crew of the plane “Plus Ultra.” This historic flight in 1926 from Spain to Argentina took over 58 hours and made history as the first completed transatlantic flight. Plus Ultra is a Latin motto meaning "further beyond," and is the national motto of spain, appearing on both its flag and the royal arms of Spain.In order to allow the building to stand out, an extensive open space was created to the north so that as you entered the city through the Avenida del Arco de la Victoria, you would still be able to see the distant Guadarrama Mountains to the north. To the south of the Ejército del Aire, a military housing complex effectively sets off the main building.Walk down the east side (right side, toward the north) of Calle Princesa toward the Arco de la Victoria (commissioned by Franco to celebrate a victory in the Spanish Civil War). As you approach the end of the buildings on that side, you will come to a small plaza on the right, above the glorieta of the Arco de la Victoria. As you enter the plaza there will be a round, open building on your right, opposite the Arco de la Victoria. In the round, open area of the building an impressive cross, reminiscent of the huge cross in the Valle de los Caidos, was supposed to have been erected, but it never happened. Originally this structure with its two wings was designed to honor those on the victorious side who died in the Civil War. Some say that this round structure was designed to cover up the less dignified buildings behind it. The building is now being used as a government building.The Arco de la Victoria, also known as an arco de triumf (arch of triumph), of a was built from 1950-56 and was meant to complete the set of monumental structures in this memorial area. The arch was conceived with a classical theme, including the goddess Minerva in her quadriga (four horse chariot), originally there was supposed to be an equestrian statute of Franco. The frieze on each side is different: on the north side, where the frieze can be seen by those entering Madrid, military ideals predominate; on the south side, which you can see from the plaza above the arch and which you would see if you were going towards the area of the Ciudad Universitaria, the academic disciplines of arts, letters, and sciences introduce the ideal of a Catholic university, founded by King Alfonso XIII and restored and completed by Franco “under the eye of God.” The area to the north of the arch contains different buildings belonging to the universities which have their campuses here.
#10 La Casa de las Flores
Very close to this spot is a famous landmark celebrated by the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and the place where he lived for a time in the barrio de Arguelles. The easiest way to reach it is to walk in the opposite direction of the Arco de la Victoria, passing El Ejército del Aire on your right and going down Calle de la Princesa, in the direction of the Plaza de España with the Metro station of Moncloa to your back. The third large intersection on your left will be the crossing with Calle de Rodríguez San Pedro.You will recognize the building in the corner with its balconies adorned by plants. La Casa de las Flores was a remarkable architectural innovation when it was designed in 1931 with three main interior patios and all 288 apartments being on the outside to maximize light and ventilation. When Pablo Neruda was looking for a place to live as the Chilean consul, the poet Rafael Alberti recommended he take an apartment there. Neruda started by knocking down an interior wall to make space in the living room for his famous intellectual friends: García Lorca, Luis Cernuda and many more writers. The famous “Residencia de estudiantes” or college dorm, became a place where some of the most famous artists and literati of the times congregated. Neruda immortalized this building in his poem “Explico Algunas Cosas,” stating, "...mi casa era llamada la casa de las flores/ porque por todas partes estallaban geranios: era una bella casa/con perrros y chiquillos." Translated, "My house was called/the house of flowers because everywhere/geraniums exploded: it was/a beautiful house/with dogs and children."This area, the Argüelles, was practically the war front during the Spanish Civil War and suffered great destruction. When Neruda went back to look at it with the poet Miguel Hernández a year after leaving it intact, he wrote that “.. era una puerta final que se cerraba en mi vida,” or translated, "it was a final door that closed in my life.". Pablo Neruda never again visited Madrid or this house. The building was reconstructed after the war and it has been designated a national monument, protected by a special Madrid governmental statute.
#11 Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas
From Moncloa, we will travel to the other side of Madrid. Take the metro from Moncloa to the metro stop Ventas, which is serviced by both #5 (green line) and #2 (red line).As you emerge from the metro stop Ventas (red line #2, green line #5) you cannot miss seeing the largest bull-fighting ring in all of Spain, a veritable “cathedral of bullfighting.” Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas was inaugurated in 1931, but did not reach its present functionality until 1934. This plaza replaced an older one that was located in the neighborhood of the Calle Goya, near the Puerta de Alcalá. Plaza de Toros was built in the red brick neo-mudéjar style popular in the first half of the 20th century, can seat 25,000 spectators, and is adorned with tiles representing the heraldic symbols of all the Spanish provinces. The corridas (bull fights) do not take place year round. In Ventas they are held from March to October, usually only on weekends. However, between the middle of May and the middle of June the corridas are held daily, to coincide with the San Isidro festival, the patron saint of Madrid. During these weeks, the most prominent and the up-and-coming bull fighters appear. Bull fighters who have not appeared in Ventas have not “arrived” or achieved significant success in the profession.A note of warning: as you take in the plaza, watch your valuables! Crowds, especially where tourists congregate, attract petty thieves and pickpockets. They are usually so artful that you will not know until much later that you have been robbed.The bullring is divided in sections. The seats in the shade are more expensive than the ones in the sun, and the closer the seat to the arena, the more costly. If you want to attend, it is better to wait until the bullfight starts, because the scalpers will eventually mark them down. Many times, if the event is not star-studded, there are also tickets left in the ticket booth. Do no bother to stand in line because there are professional scalpers that will crowd in and you will end up waiting for hours and come up empty handed. If you don’t have the stomach for the bullfight, you may want to visit the museum on the site.Bull fighting is not just about jumping into a ring with an angry bull. The sport combines physical abilities, precision, a total lack of fear, and artistic moves. In times past the corridas were wildly popular with all ages, but today the younger generations are less interested. The exception is during the first week of the “San Isidros” (festival) when the rich and famous go to see and be seen, usually dressed “to the nines.” The king’s mother was a passionate fan of the sport, and she attended as many as she could, becoming a fixture of the plaza for many years. The previous king, Juan Carlos I has a royal loge and could be seen occasionally, but it was without Queen Sofia, who was reputed to dislike it.Across the street from the bull ring, going up Alcalá, there are some great pastry shops and ice cream stores. If you feel more adventuresome and want something castizo, or "genuine," find one of the many cafes or shops in Alcalá and try having some tapas or a Spanish ham sandwich with jamón ibérico or jamón serrano, a specialty of Spain not unlike Italian prosciuto. This dried, cured ham is considered the best expression of Spanish gastronomy and a real delicacy that you need to taste. In several Madrid locations, you can find delicatessen stores called Museo del Jamón (museums of ham), where there are magnificent hams hanging from the ceiling. You should not leave Spain without eating a bocadillo (also called a bocata) with this Spanish cured ham, either at one of these cafes or from one of the grocery stores that makes that kind of sandwich.
#12 Ending the Highlights of Madrid
You have now been introduced to some of the most popular places of Madrid, should be familiar with the Metro lines, and a have a taste for what this amazing city has to offer.
