#1 Habsburg's Madrid
As with several of these walking tours, begin in the Plaza Mayor.The present look of this central plaza stems, for the most part, from the 19th century. However, the enchanting air of the Plaza Mayor reflects the baroque style envisioned first by Felipe II and then Felipe III. The Plaza burned down several times because the first buildings were made of wood with only brick facades. These earlier buildings had four stories but they did not resemble the present ones. Today, the buildings have four floors plus the lofts. (Remember, in English the first floor is the ground floor, while in Europe, the first floor would be our second floor.) It was Carlos III in the 18th century who decided to lower the profile of the buildings, to add mansard roof lines, and in general to make the buildings more appealing and open.
#2 Puerta de Toledo
With your back to the tourist office (the north side of the plaza), find the exit, the Puerta de Toledo, across the plaza and slightly to the right. Exit by the Puerta de Toledo, the main opening on the south side of the square, into the Calle de Toledo.Looking down the Calle de Toledo you will notice that the lower walls of the buildings that line the street do not appear perpendicular to the upper floors of the building.These lower walls are the original tracings of the ancient buildings that were erected there, and some of those were built on the fragments of the old city wall that surrounded the town (la Cava) in the XII century. Down the street on the left you can see the profile of the Iglesia de San Isidro el Real, or Colegiata de San Isidro, sometimes referred to as the “co-Cathedral”. This church is the third resting place of the body of San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of Madrid.
#3 Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada
At the bottom of that first block (where there is a parking garage), take the first right into Calle de Latoneros, across from the entrance to a parking garage. At the end of the street you will be in the Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada. (On another tour we visit this spot also) where you can see a cement cross.Once in the Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada, look to the left and you will see a mural painted on the wall of a building with the words, “Fui sobre agua edificada.” These lines refer to the Muslim founding of what would become the capital of Spain. They chose to place one of their defensive outposts here because of the abundant natural springs and water reserves. The Muslims used an underground system of stone channels to carry the water needed for agricultural purposes. This system continued with few changes until the reign of Isabel II in the 19th century, when the tremendous population growth required the creation of new sources for water.
#4 Sobrino de Botín
With your back to the Calle de los Tintoreros, walk straight ahead bearing left into the Calle de Cuchilleros (this street and the Calle de Latoneros from which you entered the plaza, form a 30 degree angle).On the right hand you will see what is reported to be the oldest continuous existing restaurant in the world, the Sobrino de Botín founded in 1725. They serve truly castizo (typical) fare, reportedly attracting the rich and famous, including King Juan Carlos who is said to be a fan of huevos estrellados, a traditional Spanish dish consisting of fried potatoes with soft fried eggs on top. It is wonderfully gooey comfort food, the Spanish equivalent to nachos, that you should try sometime, either here (a bit pricey) or at any other tapa bar or restaurant in Madrid.
#5 Calle de Cuchilleros
As you continue walking up (north) the Calle de Cuchilleros, you will notice straight ahead the corner of the Plaza Mayor and the steps leading up to the Arco de Cuchilleros, the south-west entrance to the Plaza Mayor.The continuation of the Calle de Cuchilleros becomes the Calle Cava de San Miguel. As you pass the buildings that form the outside wall of the Plaza Mayor you will notice, that the lower levels of the buildings slant outward toward the street. These massive walls, with their numerous restaurants and flamenco shows in the lower levels (a sure indication that this is a tourist area), form the base of the platform of the Plaza Mayor.
#6 Calle de la Pasa
Retrace your steps back past the steps leading up to the Arco de Cuchilleros. There will be a small street, the Calle del Maestro de Villa, leading west to the Plaza Conde de Burgos. Continue west across the Plaza Conde de Burgos to the street at the end of the plaza, Calle de la Pasa.According to legend, the Calle de la Pasa received its name because Franciscan monks used to pass out bread and raisins (pasas in Spanish) to the poor. In more modern times, Madrileños have a saying concerning this little street, “El que no pasa por la Pasa, no se casa,” “He who does not pass through the Pasa (the street) will not be married.” The origin of the saying probably comes from the fact that the marriage license office used to be in this street. Look around at the balconies lovely iron work and other architectural features.
#7 Plazuela del Conde Miranda
Facing the Calle de la Pasa, turn right into Calle del Conde de Miranda and walk a few paces until you get to the charming Plazuela del Conde Miranda on the left.This old quarter of the city has some marvelous and interesting names that in the majority of the cases are the remnants of the markers that specified where some of the traditional medieval guilds plied their trade: Cuchilleros made cutlery, Tintoreros dyed yarn and cloth. Other street names refer to specific people’s names, palaces where the notables lived, etc. Still other names may derive from the features of the street, such as the most aptly named Calle del Codo, Elbow Street, because it is bent just like an elbow. These and other features make this part of Old Madrid a delightful adventure to walk through.At the far (west) end of the plaza you will see a small church portal, the popularly called Convento de las Carboneras, Convent of the Coal Merchants. According to tradition, someone searching through a bin of discarded coal found a statue of the virgin. Feeling bad about it, they took it to the convent so the nuns would take care of it. The nuns did take care of the image, which became known as the “Carboneras.”As you look around the plaza you will see that the buildings on the east end of the plaza, on the Calle del Conde de Miranda, look rather modern and out of place, even though the facades are red brick. The rest of the buildings around the plaza have been beautifully restored to the look they originally had. During the last few years, the restoration process has become much more refined. The municipal authorities now require that any renovations or any new buildings conform to the look of the original time period and the quarter.Facing the convent, notice the street sign on the left, Calle del Puñonrostro, or Fist-in-your-Face Street, a name given by Carlos V (also known as Charles I) to a man who had no lands but who fought loyally, defending the rights of the king during the Insurreccíon de los Comuneros, an uprising of the common people against the monarchy and an exorbitant increase in taxes and other fees. This brave knight lost his sword in the heat of battle, but rather than retreat, he continued to fight bravely with his fists in defense of the king. Therefore, the emperor granted him honors, privileges, and many lands in Alcobendas.
#8 Calle del Codo
Still at the west end of the Plazuela del Conde de Miranda and facing the convent, turn right into the Calle del Codo and walk (north) up this narrow street.As you walk, you will pass a building on the left that has been continuously inhabited through the centuries (Casa de Lujanes). When you get to the bend (elbow) in the street, you will see the Plaza de la Villa ahead. Walk toward the plaza until you are almost out of the street. There on your left you will see a beautiful mudéjar (moorish) style door of the Casa y Torres de los Lujanes, built in the days when horseshoe arches were the height of fashion.
#9 Casa de la Villa
Coming out into the Plaza de la Villa you will see straight in front of you the Casa de la Villa or former City Hall of Madrid.Casa de la Villa is a splendid baroque building from the time of the Habsburgs, beautifully proportioned and marked in the corners by square towers crowned with pyramidal tops that are similar to the imposing Escorial, the favorite building of Felipe II, the most powerful of the Habsburg kings. Tours of the Casa de la Villa can be arranged at the tourist office in the Plaza Mayor.
#10 Casa y Torres de los Lujanes
After taking a long look at the building facing the plaza, walk to the right to the Calle Mayor and look left down the street at the other facade of the Casa de La Villa that borders this street.You will notice that the facade on this side is in a different style, neo-classical. After the baroque building had been built, one of the queens wanted a place where she could enjoy the procession of Corpus Christi and other civic and religious events, so they added this neo-classical addition with the balcony that you can see.Walking back to the Plaza de la Villa and with the Casa de la Villa in back of you, you will see to the right of the end of Calle del Codo another view of one of the oldest buildings in Madrid, the Casa y Torres de los Lujanes, which you saw from a different vantage point while you were still in the Calle del Codo. In this building, a famous composer of the end of the 19th century, Federico Chueca, was born. This building predates Columbus’s discovery of America and has had an illustrious history, having housed kings and queens: Enrique IV, the brother of Isabel I; the Catholic queen herself; Fernando, king in his own right and consort of Isabel, and many others. Francis I, King of France was held captive here by Carlos V for a while, until he agreed to be more reasonable. The tower is a reminder of the noble houses found in the towns during medieval times, where the size of the tower bespoke the importance of the family. After the time of Isabel and Fernando, the Catholic monarchs, many of these towers were cut down by Isabel as a lesson to the defiant aristocracy that defied her during the civil war which preceded her confirmation on the throne of Castile.
#11 Casa de Cisneros
Still standing with your back to the Casa de la Villa, turn to your right so you can see at the south end of the plaza the famous sixteenth century building, Casa de Cisneros.Casa de Cisneros, a notable example of the Renaissance style, did not belong to the famous Cardinal Cisneros, but rather to his nephew. The building was also used by City Hall and is linked to the main building by a lateral bridge that looks like it has been there from the beginning. Before we leave the plaza, notice in the south-central part of the plaza the statue of a very famous hero from the time of Felipe II, Don Álvaro de Bazán, otherwise known as the Marques de Santa Cruz. He was a hero of Lepanto, the famous battle fought against the Turks by the Holy League (Spain, Venice, Savoy, Austria, and others) which gave the Christians temporary control of the Mediterranean Sea. Bazán seems to have been among the first to suggest to Felipe II the possibility of sending an armada to invade England but died before it came about. The disastrous attempt to invade England was left to the otherwise meritorious Duque de Medina Sidonia. Don Álvarowas the son of another Navy hero credited with having designed the galleons that were to be used so effectively in the trade with the America’s. Don Álvaro also distinguished himself in Portugal defending the rights of Felipe II to the throne and in several encounters throughout the Mediterranean. In spite of all his heroic deeds, his independent character seemed to have clashed with the methodical ways of the king and it was rumored that the royal reprimands broke his heart and hastened his death.To the left of the Casa de Cisneros on the wall of the Casa de los Lujanes, notice the plaque that designates this house as the oldest building in Madrid. The plaque also mentions that Enrique IV (brother of Isabel and her predecessor) singled out Madrid because of the continuous support it provided him when several of the nobility and the Catholic Church fomented a revolt.
#12 La Casa de Antonio Perez
At the left of the Casa de Cisneros enter the Calle del Cordón and proceed down it to the end (at the next corner). The plaza in front of you and to the left is the small Plaza del Cordón.At that corner where Calle del Cordón comes onto the plaza, turn left and walk toward the next corner. The second doorway on the left, before you reach the next corner, is from the time of the Habsburg king, Felipe II. At that time, the house belonged to an infamous person, Antonio Perez (1540-1615), whom we have mentioned before, and is named, accordingly, La Casa de Antonio Perez.
#13 Basílica Pontificia San Miguel
Continue to the next corner (the end of the plaza and the beginning of Calle de San Justo) where you will see what was known as the old church of San Justo y Pastor.The original church burned, but it was rebuilt by an Italian architect who created an interesting curved facade named for San Justo. Since the 18th century this church has been known as the Basílica Pontificia San Miguel. The Vatican’s representative has used this church. Today it is run by Opus Dei. (Other churches run by Opus Dei in Madrid include San Gines, Oratorio El Caballero de Gracia, etc.). You may want to visit a service in any of these churches sometime to see the unusual high attendance at their masses.
#14 Plazuela de San Javier
Retrace your steps back to the corner of Calle del Cordón and proceed down the street on the west side of the Plaza del Cordón. (It is the continuation of the Calle del Cordón.) Take the first right into the Calle del Conde. At the next corner you will be in the tiny Plazuela de San Javier. As you come onto the plazuela, the house on the left (bearing #3) with a beautiful coat of arms on the facade used to belong to the Inquisition and dates from the 18th century. If you are facing this house, turn to the right and continue on the Calle del Conde down the set of stairs. At the bottom of the stairs, notice the yellow house just ahead.Though somewhat modified of late, this house is one of the “casas a la malicia,” because of the random pattern of windows that do not seem to align with any consistency; in other words, the size and placement of the windows does not seem to match any regular floor pattern. This seeming irregularity was actually planned. Before Felipe II made Madrid the capital in 1561, the town had been a provincial backwater; it lacked the infrastructure to handle the influx of bureaucrats, hangers-on, etc. that the presence of the royal court entailed. One of the problems they had was a lack of living space for the newcomers. Therefore, the court passed a law that any family having more than one floor of living space was required to turn over one entire floor of their house to a court functionary, without being compensated. As any intelligent community would have done, the Madrileños found a way to avoid this form of taxation in kind. They built houses that looked as if there were not enough windows for more than one floor, therefore, it was not required of them to offer “el aposento real.” When the inspectors made their rounds, they immediately ruled out such houses, even though the interiors usually had beautiful patios, balconies, and more than one floor. In this manner the citizens spared themselves the bother and the expense; in essence, outwitting the king.Notice also, the tile sign that shows a column with the name “del Rollo.” On this column municipal announcements were posted, such as city ordinances, death sentences, punishments, etc.
#15 Miguel de Cervantes
Continue down the stairs (not the ones to the sharp left), just beyond the yellow house to the Plaza de la Cruz Verde, bounded on the south by the Calle de Segovia. Because the green cross was commonly used in Inquisitorial trials, this plaza is another sober reminder of past events. To the left of the fountain at the north end of the plaza, walk up the Calle de la Villa. On the left at Number 2 is a house with a sign stating that Miguel de Cervantes was tutored here until he was 18 years old.At the time Cervantes was tutored here, it was called Calle del Pretil de los Consejos. As you continue up the hill, turn sharply right at the corner and enter the present day Calle del Pretil de los Consejos. As you continue to go up hill (to the north), the building on your left (west) is the magnificent Palacio de Uceda. This palace once belonged to the son of the Conde de Lerma, “Valido,” or the favorite of Felipe III. When the influential count became unbalanced he was disgraced but his son did not go to his rescue.
#16 Palacio de Abrantes
Continue to the corner of this building and the Calle Mayor. As you ascended the Calle del Pretil de los Consejos, you will have passed on the right the Iglesia del Sacramento is also known as the Catedral de las Fuerzas Armadas.At the street level of the Calle Mayor, in front of the Iglesia del Sacramento (or Catedral de las Fuerzas Armadas) is the memorial to those killed at the wedding of the King Alfonso XIII. Across the street from the church is the magnificently decorated Palacio de Abrantes, that now houses the Istituto de Italiano di Cultura. Unfortunately, the inside has been heavily modified and is no longer representative of the original structure.
#17 Palacio de Duques de Uceda
Find a safe place to cross to the north side of the Calle Mayor. From this north side you get a fine view of the north facade of the Palacio de Uceda. (You passed by the east facade of the palace as you came up the Calle del Pretil de los Consejos.)Palacio de los Duques de Uceda, also known as Palacio de los Consejos, is a fine example of a baroque palace, with grand proportions and magnificent courtyards. Notice the Royal Arms in the cornice. This building now houses the Capitanía General and has had an interesting and distinguished list of former occupants. In this palace lived the widowed queen of Felipe IV, Queen Mariana. The illegitimate son of Felipe, Juan de Austria, once he was recognized by the king as his son, also lived in the house and at the same time as the queen mother, who had to tolerate his pretensions and show him the deference due a person of royal blood.
#18 Ending the Habsburg's Madrid Walk
If you look down the Calle Mayor to the west and across the Calle Bailén, you can see the Catedral de Saint Maria la Real de la Almudena and part of the route of the Medieval walk. To the east is the Plaza del Sol and to the west is the Palacio Real. This is the end of this tour.During this tour, Opus Dei, a Catholic lay ministry, and Antonio Pérez, a famous/infamous character during the time of the Habsburgs, were mentioned. Antonio, who had a fascinating and tumultuous life, is widely considered to have originated Leyenda Negra against Felipe II. The son of a prominent secretary of Carlos V, though perhaps illegitimate at birth, he was educated in the best European universities: Alcala, Salamanca, Louvain (in present day Belgium, and Padua (in Italy). Pérezalso served a famous Spanish aristocrat in Italy, the Prince of Eboli, of the powerful Mendoza family. An expert in Italian affairs, he eventually became one of the closest secretaries (administrators) of Felipe II. However, his political intrigues, extravagant life style and liaisons, especially with the widow of the Prince of Eboli, Ana de Mendoza, were not acceptable to the austere king. Antonio also became involved in the murder of a secretary of Juan de Austria, falsely accusing him as a traitor to the king. Later proved to be a lie, the king ordered his arrest. Pérez escaped first to Aragon, where he caused a major legal battle pitting federal vs. state powers, and then moved to France where he intrigued against Spain, and finally, to England. His prolific writings helped the Protestant cause against the Spanish and created the sinister aura given Felipe II in the Black Legend against the Spanish that was widely circulated by England. Ultimately, Pérez died penniless in Paris, never having been allowed to return to Spain again.Opus Dei was founded by J.M. Escrivá, a Spanish priest now canonized as a saint. This group believes that God sanctions daily labor as one way to live a Christian life through dedication and example. They are a conservative and very active group that has priests and lay members, and has been at the center of controversy many times. Their congregations are upper middle class, well-educated, and yield considerable influence in the Spanish corporate world and in education. Some of their alleged practices, like mortification, continue to arouse controversy.
