#1 Medieval Madrid
This walking tour of the oldest parts of Madrid begins in the Plaza Mayor.The spacious Plaza Mayor dates back to the 9th century. It has, over the course of time seen many changes. In the earliest period it was known as the Morería, or the Moorish quarter. Madrid was a military outpost in the defensive line that guarded the Moslem kingdom of Toledo from attack by the Christians from the north. The site had been chosen, apparently, because of the abundant water for irrigation that the local springs produced. Originally there had been a Moslem castle, or Alcazar, on the spot where the current Royal Palace now stands. Outside of the Alcazar was the Medina (Arabic word for “city”) where the common people lived. In addition to a Moslem quarter there was also a Jewish quarter and a Christian quarter.Before growth forced an enlargement of the city, the entire city was contained between the present Calle Mayor, Calle Bailen, the Plaza de Oriente, and the Cathedral of the Almudena. In 1083, Alfonso VI of Castile captured Madrid from the Moslems. It was after this capture by the Christians that the city was divided into 10 districts called colaciones or parishes, each with its own church. The Jewish population lived mainly in the Lavapies (Abapies) area that still exists today.
#2 Iglesia Arzobispal Castrense
Now that you have arrived at the Plaza Mayor, find the Tourist Office about in the middle of the north wall. It is located in the Casa de Panadería, the building with the figures painted on the front. Walk to the right (west) of the Tourist Office to the near corner, the north-west corner. Near the corner is one of the exits from the Plaza Mayor, the Calle Ciudad Rodrigo. After about 400 feet you will merge into the Calle Mayor. Continue in the same general direction down the Calle Mayor. As you proceed down the Calle Mayor you will pass on your left at #59 the quaint old pharmacy called “Antigua Farmacia de la Reina Madre” (named thus because the Queen mother of Alfonso XIII used to have her medicines prepared there). Right after the pharmacy notice the plaque on the wall indicating that Calderon de la Barca lived and died in this house. Staying on the left you will pass the Plaza de la Villa, which we will come back to near the end of the tour. Across the street and about forty paces down the Calle Mayor is the street bearing Calderon’s name. Continuing down Calle Mayor you will come to a small church, the Iglesia Arzobispal Castrense, on the left, a little below the level of Calle Mayor. (If you have reached Calle Bailen, you have gone one block too far.)In front of the Iglesia Arzobispal Castrense, but up on the level of Calle Mayor, is a small monument with an angel. The monument honors those killed in a bombing perpetrated by an assassin on the day Alfonso XIII (the grandfather of Juan Carlos I, and great-grandfather of the reigning king) was wed to Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg; it detonated when the royal couple was passing by in a wedding processional following the ceremony. The bomb, hidden in a bouquet of flowers, was thrown from above Calle Mayor. Although the bomber committed suicide, it's widely assumed that the bomb–which hit the tram line, altering its trajectory and causing it to fall into the crowd, injuring and killing many who were watching the royal procession–was, in truth, meant to kill the royal couple.
#3 La Iglesia de San Nicolás
With your back to the angel, cross the street and walk up and to the right, then turn left into the Calle de San Nicolás. Continue up the Calle de San Nicolás to the small plaza in front of the Church of San Nicolás.La Iglesia de San Nicolás belongs to one of the oldest parishes of Madrid and was probably built over the remains of a mosque. The present building is generally considered to be from the XII century, and it was already named as an organized congregation in a Fuero or law of 1202. The tower is beautiful red brick using the múdejares technique. Mudéjar is the name given to the architectural style of the masons that had a Moslem background mixed with elements of Christian and oriental styles. It utilized an abundance of softer materials: brick, wood, and stucco, and employed the characteristic horseshoe arch, along with Romanesque and Gothic arches. The careful and artistic placement of the bricks enhances the decoration and enriches these buildings.The original plan of the church has been added to through the centuries, especially during the Habsburg and the Bourbon dynasties. The tower was added in the 17th century in a style popular in the Madrid of the time, and is reminiscent of El Escorial, the palace-monastery-royal tomb of Felipe II. Juan de Herrera, the architect responsible for El Escorial is buried here. Through the passage of time, the church lost its importance and was given to a new congregation of monks. The building became known as La Iglesia de San Nicolás de los Servitas. The interior has been reworked several times since the original three naves were constructed, but you can still see beautiful mudéjar style touches like the central nave and, of course, the tower. At some other time you may want to come back and visit this ancient church that is open only, like a lot of other churches in Madrid, at very specific hours, but if it is available while you are already here, do enter!
#4 La Iglesia de Santa María de la Almudena
Turn back down to Calle Mayor and, keeping to the right (north) side, walk down to the Calle Almudena. You will see an area with a glass covering. Under the glass you can see what remains of the old Iglesia de Santa María de la Almudena, probably built on top of a mosque, which itself was probably built on the site of a Visigothic christian church.La Iglesia de Santa María de la Almudena, much modified, was demolished around 1868. If you stand by the bronze gentleman, you can see the remains of the walls. Notice on the wall of the building to the left (west) of the site the plaque that indicates this is the spot where in 1578 Juan Escobedo, secretary of Felipe II, and protagonist of one of the most interesting capers of the times, was murdered. In the old church of Santa María two famous personages, connected with the murder of Juan Escobedo, were buried: the Conde de Pastrana and Mendoza, also known as Príncipe de Eboli. The prince was one of the most influential officers of Felipe II. However, his widow, the Princess of Eboli ran afoul of the royal court because she had been involved with an up and coming secretary of the king, Antonio Perez, who himself had been involved in the murder of Juan Escobedo. For this she was banished to her own house (effective house arrest) in the city of Pastrana for the rest of her life (one can still see there the small barred balcony where she was allowed to look at her town once a month for a few minutes).
#5 La Capitanía General
Across the Calle Mayor from where you stand is the magnificent Capitanía General, formerly the Palacio de Uceda, with the coat of arms of the Uceda family, prominent in the time of the Austrias or Habsburgs.La Capitanía General housed for a while the illegitimate son of Felipe IV, Juan de Austria. The Austrian widowed queen, Mariana, had to put up with his airs and probably had to compare him at every turn with her own sickly son, the future king Carlos II, a man that was to be known as “the Bewitched” or “El Hechizado,” and often unable to wield the power of the throne due to his extreme ill health. It is now commonly thought that many of Carlos' health issues were the result of inbreeding among the Hapsburgs. His father and mother were until their marital union, respectively, uncle and niece, but that was only the latest example of marriage between family members. With this background in mind, cross the Calle Mayor and read the plaque on the building.
#6 Moslem Wall
Continue down that south side of the Calle Mayor, cross the Calle Bailén and continue down to the exposed remains of part of the old Moslem wall around Madrid. Where the street makes a turn to the left there is a metal model of Madrid during Moslem times.You will notice from the model that there were only three city gates that allowed access to the city. With your back to the model you can see the square remains of the Moslem wall towers. Christian wall towers, like Roman ones before them, usually were rounded. The brick works that you can see on top of the Moslem ruins are the remnants of an old palace from a later period.
#7 El Jardin de las Vistillas
As you walk back up toward the Calle Bailen, notice the back of the cathedral, and at street level you can see the entrance to the crypt of the cathedral, on the north side of Calle Mayor. In the corner on the left side of the crypt entrance you can see a copy of the image of the virgin of the Almudena. The original is on the main level of the Cathedral in the west transept. Walk back up the Calle Mayor to the Calle Bailén and cross to the other side, turn right and walk down the left side of it. Within a few paces you will be on a bridge across a fairly deep ravine, with glass barriers on each side. When you come to the end of the bridge, look to the right, across the Calle Bailén, and down that first street on the right after the bridge.The area between that street and the ravine on that side is called El Jardin de las Vistillas. These gardens, which have seen better days, are used in good weather as a venue for concerts. Standing on the same spot, if you look down the street ahead of you, down Calle Bailén, you might be able to see the top of the enormous cupola of Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande, the largest neo-classical church of Madrid that can be seen in many of the paintings by Goya. This grand church competes in size on the Madrid skyline with the Royal Palace, at least as seen from the Manzanares River to the west.
#8 Plaza de Alamillo
Still standing at the end of the bridge on the east side, turn to the left (east) and proceed down Calle de Morería into the ancient quarter that used to be called Morería. Continue down Calle Morería as it meanders left. Where it bends to the right is the Plaza de Alamillo. Some say the name comes from the two trees that stand there, but the name probably comes from Alami or Alamau, the Tribunal of Justice that used to stand in the place of the large building on your left that faces the plaza.Plaza de Alamillo is a delightful little spot with a lot of history that gives us a taste of the progression of time. It is also where at most times of the day we can see children playing with grandmothers watching them. It is a small slice of the everyday human history. There are many legends about this particular spot, among them is that El Cid, the medieval knight who made himself famous during the wars between the Christians and Moslems, came here on his crusade to help Alfonso VI conquer Magerit, the Moslem name for Madrid.One suggested derivation of the name could come from the word meaning “ Matriz de agua” or “matrix.” Since there were so many springs in this area, it was all planted and a very verdant place.
#9 Plaza de la Paja
With your back to the large building on the Plaza de Alamillo, walk up the Calle Alfonso VI (a sharp hairpin turn from the Calle de Morería which you came down) until you get to the Plaza de la Paja, the “straw plaza.” The building on the near right-hand corner houses the Colegio de San Ildefonso, a city institution. It is known by everyone because the children of this school are chosen to sing out the winning numbers for the biggest lottery of the country (“El Gordo”) at the end of the year. On this corner was the palace of Beltran de la Cueva, a nobleman of the time of the Catholic Monarchs in the 15th century. As you enter this elongated plaza, walk to the left (down) and look around the corner into the Costanilla de San Andrés (down and to the left) that runs down to the Calle Segovia where you see a small fountain. If you were to walk down the Costanilla de San Andrés and look to your left, you would see the bridge you crossed earlier, and if you are lucky, you might see, way down the Calle Segovia, the Puente de Segovia over the Manzanares river, one of the oldest bridges of Madrid.Back at the Plaza de la Paja, if you look to the lower end (north) of the plaza you will see the wall that surrounds the Jardines del Palacio del Príncipe de Anglona that are open to the public. The gardens are a lovely oasis in busy Madrid, and there are plenty of benches on which to rest and contemplate the neo-classical style, complete with a parterre bordered by low boxwood hedges. The historical structure next to the right of the gardens is an elegant example of a 17th century palace; its history followed the fortunes of the different owners. It first belonged to the Benavides family; later, in the 18th century it belonged to another famous occupant that squandered his fortune in Italy, until totally penniless. It was from this owner that the house received the name. In the 19th century it came to another great family, the Osunas, and even later on to the niece of another powerful family known as the Infantado. Fortunately, the structure was saved from the wrecking ball and is now occupied by an upscale restaurant.
#10 Palacio de los Vargas
Turning your back to this building, walk up the Plaza de la Paja, following the buildings on the left of the plaza and as you walk up past the restaurants, you can pause before a bronze statue of a seated man reading. The building behind the statue is the largest and last building facing the plaza and is the 16th century Renaissance Palacio de los Vargas. It is joined to the church at the top of the plaza. The Vargas were one of the most influential and far reaching families in medieval times and owned extensive land holdings in this area and in the ‘Vistillas” zone that went all the way down to the river, just south of the Catedral of the Almudena. They were also involved in many of the events occurring in the life of the patron saint of Madrid, San Isidro.San Isidro Labrador (or "the laborer"; one who works the land, as opposed to a regular worker), who was canonized in the 17th century, was one of the hired hands of the family. Already famous but not yet sainted, following his death Isidro was buried in the Church of San Andrés. However, in 1518, custody of his body was given to the Vargas family, largely because the head of the family had been a royal counselor during the time of the Catholic monarchs. Consequently, the Vargas family laid his body to rest in the large structure at the top of the plaza, called La Capilla del Obispo. If you turn left and go up the Costanilla de San Andrés to the next small plaza, the Plaza de Corros (which is connected to two other small plazas), you will have passed on the left hand side at the top of the hill, and just before entering the Plaza de Corros, the unused entrance to the Iglesia de San Andrés, which is where San Isidro was reburied in 1544. Following the fortunes of history (everyone wants to own the body of a Saint, or a Beatified), the body of San Isidro was moved again in the 18th century, during the reign of Charles III, to San Isidro el Real or Colegiata (Collegiate Church of San Isidore)in the Calle Toledo, where it still rests. From the cornice up, the Iglesia de San Andrés had been destroyed during the Spanish Civil War but has now been splendidly restored (you can easily tell the new parts from the old parts.) The interior has been renewed to show the magnificent decorations of the cupola in the Italian Baroque style of the 17th century.
#11 Plaza de Corros
Once in the Plaza de Corros, if you turn left and go the next corner of the church you will see a small garden and the currently used entrance to the Iglesia de San Andrés. If the church is open, take a look inside.If you stand in front of the small garden you are in the Plaza de San Andrés. To the right of the garden is the Museo de San Isidro, in a building known as the Palacio de los Condes de Paredes, that occupies the original spot of the house of the Vargas family. San Isidro Labrador (given name: Isidro de Merlo y Quintana) was a hired hand of the Vargas family and lived along with other hired hands in this building, where tradition has it that the miracle took place that led to him being sainted. According to the story, this devout peasant spent so much time in prayer that angels came down to do his work (an expectation some students have entertained). One day his small son fell into the well of the house. He prayed fervently for help whereupon the water of the well rose up and returned his son from a certain watery grave.Walking past the San Isidro museum on your left, there is another small plaza contiguous with the Plaza de San Andrés, the Plaza del Humilladero (or place of prayer). This curious name was given to places where there were small images placed in the streets, walls, etc. and where people would come to pray and to be made humble.
#12 Iglesia de San Pedro el Real
At the corner of the museum, turn left and go down the Costani de San Pedro. Near the bottom of the street, take the only street on the right, Calle del Nuncio.On the left as you enter the Calle del Nuncio is the Iglesia de San Pedro el Real, which was probably placed over the remains of a previous mosque, and which was built in the mudéjar style, but later enlarged in the 17th century in the baroque style. This ancient church, together with San Nicolás de los Cervitas, which we have also seen on this walk, are the two oldest parishes of Madrid. The structure is from the time of Alfonso XI in the 14th century. He gave it to the city of Madrid to thank them for the help he received on his quest to recover Algeciras from the Moors. Inside there is an inscription that states that Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (el Cid) donated money so that the sacraments could be administered to the sick.
#13 Puerta de Guadalajara
Walk straight ahead down the Calle del Nuncio. As the street narrows you will pass on the right the yellow house traditionally occupied by the Vatican Ambassador (though not presently). Notice the Papal coat of arms above both entrances. Continuing on ahead, as the street bends to the left, you come to the Calle de San Justo coming in from the left. As you exit the Calle de Nuncio onto Calle de San Justo, notice the tiled café with reproductions of Velazquez paintings.Here is the Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada, where one of the old city gates from the time of the Hapsburgs used to exist. Cross the Calle de San Justo, turn to the right and walk up to the stone cross a few paces to the east. You are now across from the Calle de la Cava Baja, a colorful street (with an art gallery of the same name), featuring tapa and pinchos from a variety of eating establishments. Also nearby is the door of the old city wall called La Puerta Cerrada, as it was closed very early in the day because this was an especially dangerous place in that time period. The city wall used to continue on to where the Plaza de la Opera is now, where there was another city door called the Puerta de Guadalajara, originally known as the Puerta de Banadu.
#14 Ending the Medieval Madrid Walk
Keep to the left as you enter the Calle de Cuchilleros.There is an abundance of old restaurants, cafés and flamenco shows on this street that have been celebrated by many a writer, including Hemingway. The restaurant ahead of you, Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas, was patronized by that writer. As you keep walking, you will pass on your right the reputedly oldest restaurant in the world still owned by the same family: Sobrino de Botín, a place that the 19th century writer Benito Perez Galdós names in his famous “Fortunata y Jacinta”. Further ahead, you can see the Arco de Cuchilleros and the entrance to the Plaza Mayor where you started.
