#1 Plaza de España
Start in the Plaza de España at the end of Gran Vía.This space, at the end of the Gran Vía, has been a part of the city from the days of the Habsburgs. Through the centuries, it has seen many different uses, from agricultural purposes in the beginning, to a place for several religious foundations. Around 1896 it was set aside as part of the grand east-west axis for the city.The concept of the Plaza de España was modified in the years after the end of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39). Because of the proximity of this area to the battle front (it was as close as the Casa de Campo, the former Royal gardens and now a park, to the northwest) and because it extended all the way to the Argüelles and Moncloa areas, much of the space around the Plaza de España was destroyed. The whole area, including this plaza, was rebuilt as a symbol of the new order of Franquismo (Francoism).
#2 Edificio España
Proceed to the eastern end of the plaza, where the Gran Vía runs into the plaza.With your back to the (back) of the monument in the middle of the plaza, from across the street you will see the massive Edificio España that presides over the eastern edge of the plaza. At the time of its construction (1947–1953), this building was considered the tallest and most ambitious structure in Spain and even in all of Europe (in the spirit of an American skyscraper). Its sheer mass was attenuated by the stepped pyramid shape and the neo-baroque entry. It had a shopping center on the ground floor, along with a hotel, offices, and apartments that also occupy the building. Many have compared the structure to a great false front for a movie set because it stands alone. Nevertheless, this combination of brick and stone dominates the plaza; it has recently been purchased (2017) by RIU Hotel Group, with plans to make it into a 4-star hotel complete with retail and restaurant facilities.
#3 Torre Madrid
Still standing on the Plaza de España facing the Edificio España.You will see on your left (north of the northeast corner of the plaza) another building, even taller than the Edificio España, that has become emblematic of Madrid, the Torre de Madrid (Tower of Madrid). The structure was built immediately after the Edificio España (in 1954-1957) and stands on the corner at the Calle de la Princesa where a convent once stood. The same architects that designed the Edificio España designed this white tower to project a more modern image and showcase an improved economy. The interior has apartments and offices. At the time of completion, the building boasted elevators that could move as fast as 3.5 meters per second.Across the street, the Calle de San Leonardo begins, and at #10 there is a very elegant church, the Parroquia de San Marcos. This lovely and understated church was built between 1749 and 1753 by the famous neo-classical architect Ventura Rodriguez, and is the place where he and his wife were interred until the 19th century. At that time their remains were moved to the chapel of the architects in the parish of San Sebastian. The building was commissioned by the King Felipe V (who died in 1746, before the building was started). The king wanted it built in remembrance of a victorious battle fought in 1707. If the door is open (around noon and after 6 p.m.) you will be surprised at the innovative interior with a plant of five ellipsis and lovely decorations; notice the interesting concave atrium. When you are finished looking, return to the Calle de la Princesa.
#4 Calle de la Princesa
From the Parroquia de San Marcos, retrace your steps to the Calle de la Princesa which begins at the corner of the Torre Madrid and runs north-west from the Plaza de EspañaCalle de la Princesa received its name from the firstborn daughter of Queen Isabel II of Spain. At the time, she was the only heir to the Spanish throne and therefore bore the title of Princesa de Asturias. However, once her younger brother was born he became the heir apparent, and she was given the lesser official title of Infanta. In spite of this, her first title stuck as the name of the street, probably because she became a much beloved member of the royal family. The princess was popularly known as “La Chata.” In 1868, she and her mother were exiled from Spain, but she lived a very long life and eventually returned to Madrid to reclaim the love of the people.
#5 Palacio de Liria
Walk up the Calle de la Princesa, you will come to a street on the right that somewhat parallels it, the Calle del Duque de Liria.Where the two streets meet, if you look to the east (to the right) you will be able see the Palacio de Liria, the official Madrid residence of the Duchess of Alba, a beautiful neo-classical building, once heavily damaged during the bombardments of the Civil War but reconstructed with great care. It is sometimes hard to see it through the high iron fence that surrounds the stately gardens but it pays to try, because occasionally the great iron gates swing open to let service vehicles in and you can have a good look at the structure.You may want to walk further up the Calle de la Princesa another time, since it has some very interesting features and, passing Argüelles, leads eventually to Moncloa. This area was badly damaged during the heavy fighting of the Civil War but was rebuilt during Franco’s time. Up the street, you will see a monument to a famous feminist writer, Condesa de Pardo Bazán, who lived at #33. Originally, before the civil war, this residence had been built with funds donated by Spanish and Argentinian women under the auspices of the Duchess of Alba. Unfortunately, the house was demolished after suffering heavy impacts during the Civil War.If you now walk back towards the Plaza España (generally south), but down the Calle del Duque de Liria, at the next corner you will see in the distance the corner of the Palacio del Conde Duque, former army barracks of the time of King Felipe IV and named after his famous minister, the Conde-Duque de Olivares. This spacious building is now a center for cultural arts, with exhibition halls, a performing arts theatre, the Historical Library, Municipal Newspaper Library ad Digital Memory Library of Madrid, and the Archive of the Villa. Check the Madrid guide and attend one of the many functions (some free) that take place year-round.Return now to the Plaza España.
#6 Monumento Cervantes
Proceed to the middle of the plaza.Around 1915, there was a contest to design a monument to Miguel de Cervantes to stand in the middle of the plaza. However, because of war, political turbulence, and then civil war, nothing came of the contest until the present grouping in the middle of the plaza was completed around 1960. If you walk to the west end (the lower end of the plaza) you will get a grand view of the Monumento Cervantes with the statue of Sancho Panza and Don Quixote in bronze. On either side of Sancho and Quixote you can also see the figure of Dulcinea on the right and of Aldonza on the left, both seated. Just behind Sancho and Quixote, on the obelisk, Cervantes is seated with a book in his hand and covered by a cape. Above Cervantes’ head, under the cornice, is his crest; on the left side is the crest for Madrid, and on the right side is the one for Castile. Topping the monument are five female figures, each representing one of the continents, holding a globe. On the opposite side of the monument from Cervantes, the seated figure in the middle symbolizes Literature, while on either of side of Literature are figures representing Military Valour and Mysticism, symbolic of the two great institutions of power in the days of Cervantes, the army, and the Catholic Church.
#7 Southwest Corner of the Plaza de España
With your back to the front of the monument, facing west, walk down to the left-hand corner of the plaza (the southwest corner).From this vantage point the Calle de Ferraz will be to the west. Just beyond the plaza, Calle de Ferraz turns into the Calle de Bailén, which leads south. In the distance you can see the Royal Palace and just beyond it the Catedral de la Almudena. Between the Royal Palace and the Plaza de España are the Jardines de Sabatini that were created during the Second Republic (1931-36) on the grounds where the former Royal Stables had stood. Also from this southwest corner of the Plaza de España you can see, across the street to the south, a building that belonged to the Real Compañía Asturianas de Minas (Royal Austrian Mining Company). Built in 1910, it has an elegant French Mansard roof, dormers and a tower on its corner. This structure has become one of the most admired examples of the architecture of Madrid.
#8 Carmelite Convent
Walk now to the northwest corner of the Plaza de España.Looking across the street to the west, almost in line with the north side of the plaza, you can see the iridescent cupola of a Carmelite Convent. Built in 1916, the multi-colored mosaic of the church cupola stands out from many vantage points in Madrid. The parcel of land on which the church sits presented a tremendous challenge to the architect, because the land is narrow and slopes steeply down to the river, thereby leaving the apse of the church extremely high. The church’s facade is another example of historical eclecticism with neo-medieval motifs.
#9 Casa de las Hermanas Gallardo
Northwest corner of the plaza.Across the street to the north of the northwest corner of the Plaza de España is a beautiful white-stone modernist building called Casa de las Hermanas Gallardo, built in 1915 by the Italian architect Federico Arias Rey. Ironically, it was Rey who changed the original Italian style of architecture to the stunning modernist look, with its intricate detail and almost sculpture-like appearance. The corner of the building on Calle de Ferraz is gently rounded to achieve a pleasing transition to the Plaza de España. The cupola is shaped a bit like the Carmelite Convent cupola, but it is covered with black slate, which presents a striking contrast when compared to the light walls. Adolfo Suárez, the first democratically elected president of Spain after the death of Franco, used to have his law office in this attractive building.
#10 Museo Cerralbo
If you were to walk north up Calle de Ferraz, on the east side of the street, the first cross street you would come to would be Calle de Ventura Rodríguez.On that corner is another of the many charming smaller museums of Madrid, the Museo Cerralbo. The museum occupies an aristocratic 19th century mansion which still has the look of elegance and privilege of bygone eras.
#11 Ending the Plaza de España
This ends the tour of the Plaza de España. Now, take a bit of time to sit on one of the many park benches, relax, and enjoy the scenery. Who knows when you will pass this way again? And when you are tired of sitting, walk over to Sancho Panza and Don Quixote to enjoy their company. Have your picture taken with them and with Dulcinea and Aldonza.
