Gamla Uppsala The Royal Viking Mounds Preview

Getting to Gamla Uppsala.

Address and directions:

Disavägen 15, 75440 Uppsala

By bus

Bus line 2 departs from central Uppsala, with the last stop being Kungshögarna, situated approximately 100 metres from the beginning of the tour at the Gamla Uppsala Museum. Upon exiting the bus, turn right and cross the old embankment; the museum will be on your left. Additionally, you can travel from Central Uppsala's Central Station using bus lines 110 and 115 towards Storvreta, with a stop at Reginsväg.

By car

If you are coming by car from the E4, follow the signs to Gamla Uppsala and Gamla Uppsala Church. The main parking lot is east of the old railway.

Parking

There is free parking for cars and buses near the museum. Two disabled parking lots are adjacent to the museum, with about 15–20 meters of gravel paths.

You can also take the pilgrim walk called 'St. Eric's Path' starting from central Uppsala Cathedral. The walk is approximately 5 km.

A walk down the path of St Erik, where the present meets the past and the city merges with the countryside, is not to be missed. The trail stretches 6 kilometres and takes approximately 2.5 hours to walk at a leisurely pace. Follow the pilgrim signs along the way; the path is easily accessible for wheelchairs and pushchairs.

Along the route, you will find information boards in English that provide details about the city's history, attractions in the area, and the flora and fauna that inhabit the ridge system. The first half of the path meanders through the city along the eastern bank of the Fyris River, while the second half traverses the Uppland landscape along the Uppsala ridge, one of Sweden's largest boulder ridges, measuring 250 km in length.

There are no charges for accessing the area; however, an entrance fee is required if you choose to visit the Gamla Uppsala museum.

You will need to download the tour while connected to a Wi-Fi network before you begin. Once downloaded, the tour will use your phone's GPS, so no mobile data will be required.

The GPS will activate the narrated tour and highlight points of interest as you approach each location. make sure GPS is on in the settings on your phone.

In some places, like the church interior, you must scroll to hear the narration, as GPS is not activated inside the church

You are free to undertake the tour in any order you choose.

Restrooms are available near the parking area and within the museum.

Enjoy your Gamla Uppsala tour.

The Viking era extends roughly from the sixth century through to the eleventh century. The Viking Age marked a time when the Nordic peoples, hailing from what we now know as Norway, Denmark, Sweden, and Finland, navigated the seas in search of trade and luxury items. While we celebrate the Swedish Vikings for their journeys to the East, the Norwegian and Danish Vikings are renowned for their incursions into Western Europe. Many individuals picture the Vikings as fierce raiders and plunderers of European settlements, which contributes significantly to their infamous reputation. However, research and historians present a more nuanced perspective of the Vikings that contrasts with the cinematic portrayal of a formidable Viking warrior. The Vikings possessed a rich and intricate set of societal values that evolved and transformed throughout the centuries. When we consider the Vikings, we might picture them merely as farmers or fishermen residing in small communities scattered throughout Sweden and the Nordics.

A major climatic change that took place in the sixth century after the Iron Age changed the trajectory of societal development. A massive volcanic eruption occurred, resulting in a phenomenon known as "3 winters without summers". This climatic event devastated harvests, crops, and forests, leading to the potential loss of half the population in the Nordics. In the aftermath of this climate disaster, new communities arose and evolved with a markedly different perspective. People often refer to the period from the 6th to the 7th century, which stretched through to the 11th century, as the age of the Vikings. Sweden's landscape was characterised by numerous small settlements and communities, nestled in the central plains or along picturesque coastal regions. Each settlement or community had its own chieftains leading it. In the aftermath of the climate disaster, there seems to be a renewed emphasis on the significance of land, agriculture, fishing, and the essential aspects of survival. Innovative methods emerged for land ownership, and the greater the expanse of land a community controlled, the stronger the influence of its leaders became. Land appropriation may have occurred through force and conquest, and this phenomenon appeared to extend beyond Sweden.

In the era of the Vikings, the Svea and Geats emerged as significant North Germanic tribes within Sweden. They had a common culture and language, yet maintained political independence until their unification into what is now known as Sweden in the late 10th or 11th century.

Svealand, located in Central Sweden, especially the Mälaren Valley, is the residence of the Svea. Old Uppsala served as the heart of their spiritual and political life, with their rulers tracing their ancestry back to Freyr.

In Götaland, located in Southern Sweden, the Geats established themselves in the regions of Västergötland and Östergötland.

During the Viking Age, the two tribes engaged in trade, raids, and maritime activities, yet their focuses shifted depending on their geographical locations:

The Svea and Geats engaged in explorations to the east as they encountered the Baltic Sea.

The Varangians and Rus travelled as they established Novgorod and Kiev, navigating the intricate river systems of Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus. The Varangians are recognised as the Rus' forefathers.

A few Geatish people from the west took part in the Danish and Norwegian invasions of England and Frankish territories, but the vast majority went east.

Within these tribes, 4 main Viking clans emerged as the rulers of the land and people.

The Ynglings, Skjöldungs, Fairhair Dynasty, and Wulfings are all notable clans within the Viking tradition.

The Yngling clan, based in Sweden, ruled the region of Svealand, which included Uppsala. This dynasty is regarded as one of the oldest and most important clans, eventually spreading to Norway.

The extended family, also known as the clan, was central to Viking society. These clans shared land and resources while also providing mutual defence. Clan names are typically derived from a common ancestor and frequently end with '-ung' or '-ing', which means 'descendants of'. Viking groups were often named after their leaders or home regions, such as "Olaf's Men" or "Men of Møre".

There were distinct social classes within these clans, including jarls, or nobles, who served as chieftains.

The karls, who made up the majority of Viking society, were merchants, craftsmen, and farmers. Finally, the rulers brought in the thralls—slaves who had been captured and traded during raids or were born into servitude.

A fourth layer emerged later, beginning in the ninth century, and consisted of Viking kings and queens, who played an important role in uniting regions.

The Yngling dynasty, which dominated the region—particularly Gamla Uppsala—is named after Yngvi-Frey, a Germanic god associated with fertility and prosperity. According to the ancient sagas, Freyr established the dynasty in Gamla Uppsala.

Viking sagas and storytelling incorporated mythological and legendary figures.

The Yngling dynasty is distinguished by three major mythological figures: Odin, Freyr, and Thor, as well as semi-legendary figures such as Domald, who, according to reports, was sacrificed by his people to alleviate a severe famine, and Ingjald the Evil, who is famous for burning six rival kings alive during a feast to strengthen his power. Olof Skötkonung was one of the earliest historically documented kings.

Gamla Uppsala emerged as a significant site for the Yngling dynasty. According to Norse sagas, a grand temple was built in this location to serve various purposes, including rituals and community gatherings. This temple served as a gathering place for worship while also strengthening the Norse people's social structure and cultural identity, demonstrating the close relationship between faith and governance in their community. The story of Heimskringla reveals that Freyr was the driving force behind the temple, making it her permanent residence. The Yngling kings' reign in this area strengthened their claim to be direct descendants of the divine.

Furthermore, the temple served as a key location for collecting tribute and taxes. The riches derived from these "Uppsala crown goods" provided the dynasty with the means necessary to maintain their authority.

Furthermore, it served as the "Ting"'s seat; the location hosted the Thing of All Swedes, a general assembly where laws were established and legal conflicts were resolved, reinforcing the Ynglings' political power.

The significance of the location was so great that, even after the conversion to Christianity, the Gamla Uppsala Church was built directly above or near the remains of the pagan temple, symbolising the new faith's superiority over the ancient Yngling stronghold.

How did the communities form?

During difficult times marked by failed harvests, young men and women were dispatched on quests organised by their chieftains; the mission was commerce and conquest. They hoped to find valuable products that would significantly increase their wealth. Those who embarked on these adventures paid no fees, but when they returned, any treasures discovered were divided among all participants. Sometimes the value of the assets obtained was sufficient to allow young people to buy their homes and land.

During the sixth century, the region, now known as Gamla Uppsala, developed into a commercial hub. The only way into the area was via the Fyris River, which was accessible from Lake Mälaren. The lake maintains its connection to the Baltic Sea. The sea served as a vital link between the region and other influential centres in Scandinavia. These waterways enabled vessels to reach Gamla Uppsala. The elevated areas that exist today were present in the early sixth century and were near the water. As they navigated the canals towards the trading harbour, the three prominent mounds known as the Royal Mounds would have been visible from afar.

As new trade routes emerged, the Vikings travelled further away from their homeland, returning with unique products that were uncommon in their native lands.

Furs and pelts, which were highly valued and sourced from the northern hinterlands, quickly transformed Uppsala into a thriving trading centre. The Roman armies of central Europe were particularly interested in these pelts, implying that Uppsala functioned as a wholesaler. The furs would then be transported to other trading centres, such as Sigtuna, Birka, and Visby, for resale.

Current research on this era's trade practices reveals that the primary exports were raw materials and animal products such as leather, hides, fur, and wool. Practical items such as iron, which was used to make tools and weapons, and tar, which was used to seal and preserve wooden boats, also played an important role in trade.

In exchange, a variety of luxurious items were imported, including gold, silver, and other precious metals, which were fashioned into jewellery, ingots, helmets, and ornaments. The art of glassmaking thrived and spread throughout Europe. Silk became a highly valued and sought-after commodity, frequently transported from distant lands such as the Byzantine Empire and Central Asia. By the sixth century, the Vikings had developed a taste for Rhine-sourced wine. They also exchanged quernstones, which were necessary for grinding grain. During the raids, individuals from various countries were captured.

Over the centuries, the land gradually lifted, resulting in receding waters that made access to the ancient harbour difficult. Eventually, the estuaries and rivers dried up. In the 13th century, Uppsala, formerly known as Östra Aros, became the primary trading hub and archbishop's residence.

So, what are we going to find in Gamla Uppsala today? Let's start with the royal Viking kings' mounds. Walking away from the starting point, you will notice three distinct mounds. Now let's look into their history.

As you get closer to the mounds, you'll notice three distinct formations rising majestically above the surrounding terrain. The three mounds are known as the Eastern mound, the Western mound, and the central or middle mound. In this area, you will uncover nearly 300 preserved mounds, alongside an estimated 2,000 to 3,000 burial sites that have slowly disappeared over the centuries due to agricultural activities, showcasing the profound influence of human development on these historical landmarks. The three impressive mounds were built during the period from 550 to 625 AD.

The royal mounds at Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala) have undergone thorough exploration by the Swedish National Heritage Board (Riksantikvarieämbetet) and its predecessors. This exploration primarily took place through extensive excavations in the 19th century, which involved digging deep shafts into the centres of the mounds, complemented by modern, non-invasive techniques in the 21st century. During the years 1846 to 1847, excavations at the Eastern Mound, also known as Odin's Mound, employed destructive techniques characteristic of the 19th century. This inquiry was launched by King Karl XV and carried out by National Heritage Officer Bror Emil Hildebrand to contest assertions that the mounds were merely natural elevations. The crew dug a significant trench and shaft, extending from the top of the mound all the way down to its centre. Alongside stunning artefacts like gold filigree, ivory, and gaming pieces, a stone cairn was uncovered, hiding a cremation pit that held the charred remains of a woman and a young boy.

Filigree is an exquisite and detailed form of metalwork that utilises fine, twisted strands of gold, silver, or other metals, frequently embellished with tiny beads. The elements are carefully connected to create detailed, lace-like patterns that possess a light and delicate essence. Filigree, a technique with a captivating history of more than 5,000 years, is frequently used to create rings, brooches, and pendants that inspire feelings of romance, delicacy, or wistfulness.

In 1874, the National Heritage Board oversaw the excavation of the Western Mound, commonly referred to as Frey's Mound, which involved the creation of a second large shaft at the mound's centre. It unveiled a similar setup: a cremation pit area containing the remains of a warrior, accompanied by luxurious artefacts like animal bones, gaming pieces, and a Frankish sword. Thor's Mound, also referred to as the Middle Mound, stands in pristine condition, maintaining its original form and integrity.

The Vikings honoured their leaders and esteemed individuals with sophisticated burial customs, placing them in grand mounds as an essential part of their spiritual beliefs. These mounds stand as important markers, commemorating those who have departed and representing strength and prestige. The layout of the mounds was meaningful; once created on a plot of land, a mound served as a physical representation and assertion of ownership over that area. Moreover, the mounds served as central locations for community gatherings and rituals, fostering a deep connection with the ancestors.

The individuals laid to rest within the mounds were surrounded by a variety of items meant to accompany them into the afterlife, such as tools, weapons, personal belongings, and even animals. Each mound spans an impressive circumference of 230 to 260 feet and rises to a height of 50 feet, composed of tens of thousands of cubic yards of soil. Building each mound took around 10,000 hours of labour, with earth and sand being shifted using wooden implements.

The mounds, which have fascinated visitors for years, rise majestically on a natural ridge, and the removal of the surrounding topsoil has further highlighted their striking appearance. The extreme temperatures generated by conventional cremation methods have resulted in mere traces of the interred valuables. The cremation process took place as follows: A large arrangement of tree trunks was constructed on a sturdy base of sizeable stones. This pyre was later enveloped by a thick layer of mud and sand. The king's remains were meticulously laid to rest, surrounded by his worldly belongings and necessities for the next realm, such as weapons, food, horses, and even other individuals. This arrangement produced considerable heat and flames, resulting in the melting and burning of metals and various other substances. The cremation ceremonies associated with the burial mounds were reserved for notable kings, making them rare occurrences. Discovering the identities of those interred in these mounds is a fascinating challenge. Earlier historians proposed that rulers from the Yngling dynasty, including Ane, Egil, Ottar, and Adil, were laid to rest here. While later legends romanticised deities like Thor, Odin, and Freya.

Researchers have uncovered several boat graves located 2 km north of the Uppsala site in Valsgärde and Vendel. Unlike cremation burials, these final resting spots included boats next to their leaders, who were interred with all their worldly possessions and items intended for the afterlife and their journey beyond. Discover the intriguing treasures from these boat burials at the Gustavium Museum in central Uppsala, where an awe-inspiring array of Viking artefacts from the 6th century is ready for you to uncover.

In the vicarage area of Gamla Uppsala, an intriguing Viking burial boat has been discovered, inviting you to explore its fascinating history. A woman was the owner, and it featured an array of jewellery beads, coins, and a bronze figure of a female. The stunning jewellery hails from the ninth century.

Why not visit the Gamla Uppsala Museum to discover more Viking artefacts?

The Royal Mounds of Gamla Uppsala are an extraordinary and historically significant site in Sweden. These three colossal burial mounds stand majestically in the landscape, embodying the might and mysteries of civilisation. Built approximately 1,500 years ago during the Late Iron Age, these remarkable structures tell tales from a time when impressive burial mounds represented authority and prestige.

Let us delve into the enigma of the pagan temple. Once you have explored the mounds, make your way to the church at Gamla Uppsala.

The name 'Uppsala' translates as 'high hall' and refers to a construction located on an elevated plateau near Gamla Uppsala.

Determining the exact year of the pagan temple's construction is challenging; however, it is estimated to have been built around the 11th century, which serves as a reasonable approximation. The question of whether the temple and the old church coexisted remains debatable. The temple may have existed solely from the 10th to the 12th century, or alternatively, it may have shared the site with the Christian church for approximately 100 years.

Archaeological digs have uncovered just the hall's foundational ruins. However, there is no obvious evidence at the location today. The finding of postholes and buildings beneath the mediaeval church emphasises the significance of the site, implying that a large timber edifice originally stood here.

During the 1070s, a German scholar named Adam of Bremen wrote a thorough account of occurrences in Old Uppsala. This is the most captivating written resource. He added that the Swedes had a renowned temple called Uppsala, which is adjacent to the town of Sigtuna. The entire structure shines gold, and people pay reverence to the sculptures of three deities within its walls. The illustrations show Thor, Odin, and Freyr, bringing their stories to life.

According to Adam, these deities are attended by servants who brought offerings from the people. "People present offerings to the statue of Thor in times of impending disaster." "If fighting arises, they are bound for Odin. If a wedding is near, it is dedicated to Freyr. " In addition, every ninth year, all Swedes must attend a big feast; failure to do so results in a payment for their freedom."

Since the temple was dismantled around 900 years ago, only archaeological data and opposing historical records exist to determine its size.

Excavations discovered the foundation of a spectacular edifice measuring 50 metres in length and 12 metres wide. This two-storey timber structure had a ramp leading to the entrance to the 'Great Hall'. It was located to the north of the church on a raised plateau, making it visible from a distance. Some researchers believe the "royal hall" operated as a treasured place or ceremonial centre for important assemblies and rituals.

The rituals focused on sacrifices, including the midwinter sacrifice, the sacrifice associated with the vernal equinox, the nine-yearly sacrifice of the Svea, and the sacrifices conducted at various tings or distings. 'Distings' refers to gatherings held for legal and communal decision-making. These occasions not only involved sacrifices but also served as vital forums for the community to address important matters and reinforce social bonds.

Archaeological investigations have found a number of iron spirals of varying sizes throughout the building's perimeter, which may indicate the position of a door entrance. These spirals are thought to have acted as decorative elements for the roof and walls and were attached to the hall's outside timber framework. However, it is unclear whether there is conclusive evidence for their purpose or relevance. Further analysis of the surrounding artefacts may reveal information about their purposes, possibly indicating ritualistic or ornamental applications that reflect the cultural traditions of the time. Additional finds on constructed plateaus point to the presence of a 200-square-metre royal building.

Adam of Bremen, an 11th-century chronicler, described the temple as "entirely decked out in gold". Instead of describing the size, he envisions a magnificent edifice capable of accommodating three colossal sculptures (Thor, Odin, and Freyr) as well as a sizable community every nine years.

In 2013, archaeologists uncovered a remarkable find: two impressive rows of wooden pillars extending for one and a half kilometres. The impressive 7-metre poles exemplify Gamla Uppsala's remarkable capacity for large-scale construction. This significant discovery has provided us with priceless insights on the engineering capabilities and social structures of the communities that resided in the region throughout the early Middle Ages. Researchers persist in examining the ramifications of this discovery, as it contests prior beliefs regarding the abilities and way of life of the residents of Gamla Uppsala. The purpose of the poles remains ambiguous; however, ideas propose they may have fulfilled multiple roles, including ceremonial duties, showcasing sacrifices to deities, supporting important structures, or delineating the boundaries of the territory.

We can also find three massive burial mounds from the sixth century (Vendel Period) that may contain Ynglinga dynasty monarchs. The Ynglinga monarch can be described as a clan of the Norse gods. Norse sagas write about the Ynglinga dynasty being originally founded at Uppsala by the mighty Norse god Freya, who was the goddess of kingship, fertility, and peace.

In the tenth century, Christian missionaries were allowed to come to Sweden to share the Lord's teachings with the pagans. They embarked on a journey from Bremen in Germany, accompanied by fellow travellers from Scotland and England, gradually making their way into the southern regions of Sweden.

In Skara, Olof Skötkonung made his mark as the inaugural Christian king of the Swedes. In this period, it was prudent for him to maintain connections to both the ancient pagan customs and the emerging Christian beliefs. This task required him to immerse himself in the Uppsala cult while also demonstrating his dedication to the newly constructed cathedral city in Skara, Västergötland. Svealand and Uppland presented further challenges; over time, Vikings returned from their travels, many having embraced Christianity.

At Gamla Uppsala, a notable stronghold of paganism arose as a crucial site of resistance against the encroachment of Christianity, particularly as numerous returning Vikings embraced the new faith.

The precise date of the consecration of the first bishop of Uppsala remains uncertain. Despite this, the Florentine list, documenting bishops and their respective diocesan towns, dates back to approximately 1120, with the first bishop of Sweden being consecrated in 1123. The specifics regarding the activity of this bishop in either Uppsala or Sigtuna are still unclear, and there is a possibility that two bishops named Henrik were consecrated at the same time. During this period, bishops served primarily as missionary representatives, covering regions like Uppsala and Sigtuna, as they endeavoured to spread Christianity and establish diocesan structures in Sweden.

The papal curia marked an important turning point with the establishment of the archdiocese of Uppsala in 1164 and the appointment of Stefan Alvastra as its inaugural archbishop. At the time, there was fierce competition among the three dioceses due to their shared connections with the cult centre at Aros (the original name of Gamla Uppsala).

Every diocese aimed to demonstrate its dominance over the others, and this competition shaped the allocation of power and resources throughout the area. The rivalry led to conflicts that influenced local governance and the distribution of church funds, creating tensions that obstructed collaboration among the dioceses. As a result, the region's authority was dispersed, and its religious practices were inconsistent, with different dioceses having different liturgical customs and different theological interpretations. Additionally, by assisting in the formation of ecclesiastical authority and encouraging the spread of Christianity, missionaries from Germany, England, and Scotland made a substantial contribution to the region's religious narrative.

The historic Uppsala Cathedral Holy Trinity

The current church we observe is a smaller edition of the original building that once stood on this site. Before the building took shape, a stave chapel made of stone was established in the 11th century. As we investigate the depths beneath the current church floor, we discover three distinct layers of flooring, each revealing its story at varying depths. The existing foundations of the church showcase a layer believed to originate from the stave chapel. Additionally, studies conducted in the 1980s uncovered what is thought to be the remains of a Pagan temple, showcasing cobblestones and indications of timber pole holes that likely served as structural supports for the temple. The research indicates that the existing church is partially built upon the remains of an 11th-century stave chapel, which took the place of a pagan temple.

Now, let's take a closer look at the church that stands before us. The historic Old Uppsala Cathedral, constructed during the eleventh and twelfth centuries, features a layout akin to numerous other cathedrals from that period. Much like the cathedral found in Hamburg-Bremen, the Uppsala Cathedral showcases a cruciform design complemented by an Anglo-Norman tower adorned with rounded arches and intricate stone detailing, embodying the architectural trends of its era.

The burial mounds and the ancient temple held immense importance, symbolising considerable authority, suggesting that the selection of this impressive site was likely a meaningful decision for the church. Moreover, the central headquarters of the Svea King made this location attractive for showcasing power, especially during the shift from pagan to Christian, as it served as a significant site for the burial of Sweden's first saint, St Erik, who was honoured for his contributions to the spread of Christianity in Sweden.

The interment of Sweden's inaugural saint, St Erik, within the cathedral's confines marked a momentous occasion that enhanced its importance. Saint Eric, referred to as Erik den helige, was the ruler of Sweden during the years 1156 to 1160. He is celebrated as Sweden's inaugural patron saint, with his crown prominently displayed on the coat of arms of Stockholm. If you happen to observe a flag in Stockholm, you might notice one featuring the head of St Erik; typically, there are also three golden-crowned kings' heads depicted on the flag.

He is acknowledged as a legislator, having created King Eric's law, known as the Uppland Code, which is designed to protect the vulnerable and marginalised. This development marked the beginning of a cohesive legal framework in Sweden. He is also recognised for initiating a significant military campaign to Finland in 1155 aimed at converting the nonbelievers.

He constructed many structures and propagated the faith, with the most significant being the first prominent stone church in Old Uppsala. On a day in May 1160, St Eric was celebrating Mass at the Holy Trinity Church at Gamla Uppsala on Ascension Day when he was informed of a concerning development: a Danish-supported rebel force led by Magnus Henriksen was making its way toward him. Unyielding in spirit, he chose to carry on with the service in the hope that the danger would pass. As he left the chapel, an unexpected encounter awaited him. The rebels sprang into action, capturing him from his horse and leading to a tragic end. According to legend, a spring in Uppsala, linked to St Eric, appeared at the spot where his head landed.

In 1273, his remains made their way from the Old Uppsala Church to the new cathedral, where the original relics now rest. A ceremonial procession carried them in a casket crafted from silver and gold to Uppsala. This path remains accessible for walks today and is referred to as "St Erik's Path," a well-loved 6-kilometre pilgrimage route.

Guests at Uppsala Cathedral have the opportunity to see the remains of St Erik. A forensic investigation conducted in 2016 uncovered that he was a healthy individual, aged between 35 and 40, who fell victim to multiple serious injuries. The most severe of these injuries was a profound laceration to his cervical vertebra.

The current church has been significantly altered over the years, resulting in a more compact version of the original cathedral, which was larger and showcased various historical architectural elements. The remarkable dimensions of the walls showcase the distinctive Norman style, known for its emphasis on verticality. Nevertheless, it was remarkably distinctive for its time and served as the most expansive church structure in the realm of Svea. This site served as the inaugural cathedral in the area until 1273, when the archbishopric moved to what is now Uppsala. This transition represented a pivotal change in religious authority, enabling Uppsala to thrive as the hub of spiritual and cultural significance in Sweden. As a result, the original site gradually lost its popularity, yet its historical significance persists to this day.

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