St Mullins - A History Preview

Introduction to St Mullins

How St. Mullins got its name.The area now known as St Mullins was first referred to as Rinn Ros Broc, the headland of Badger’s Wood. According to local tradition the legendary hero Finn Mac Cumhail was first to visit the area. It was here legend tells he witnessed angels ascending and descending from heaven, Finn Mac Cumhail declared that the sacred area would come to be dominated by a saint – Moling Luachra.St. Brendan the Navigator was next to arrive, sailing up the River Barrow he stopped at Rinn Ros Broc (St Mullins) for a spot of fishing. So impressed with the amount of fish caught by his monks he naturally thought this an ideal place to build a monastery, but an angel appeared and told him that not he, but St Moling was to reign there.

1

Norman Motte and Bailey

An earthen mound build by the Normans to dominate passage and the crossing to the Barrow, which is tidal to St. Mullins. A wooden watch-tower and palisade fence were on top which were used only for defense purposes. People and their animals were housed together on the rectangular Bailey for protection.

Watercourse

This mill-race one mile long was dug by St. Moling, on his own as an act of penance, to bring water to his mill. He blessed the waters and waded through them against the flood. Moling promised to intercede for all those who walked through the water in this way. This "Wading of the waters" is the origin of St. Mullins as a place pf pilgrimage.

The Green

Fairs were held here on June 17th - St. Moling's Day, July 25th - St. James' Day, September 8th - Festival of B.V.M. and November 1st - Feast of All Saints. Pattern Day takes place on the Sunday before July 25th, when many gather from Ireland and abroad to celebrate Mass and remember the dead.

2

The "Bath"

There are two plaques on the front wall of this building, one to the memory of the heroes of 1798 interred in this graveyard. The other commemorates Patrick O’Leary, Graiguenamanagh, a distinguished antiquarian who by his writings and research helped preserve local traditions, folklore and history.

3

Penal Altar

A small stone structure where Mass used to be celebrated in Penal times. A scout posted in the Motte who could be seen through the small window warned the priest and his congregation against any surprise attack. Burial place of Bryan na Straoke Kavanagh who fought at the battles of the Boyne and Aughrim in1691. Three priests from penal times are buried here, on whom Rev. Daniel Kavanagh’s grave is believed to have a cure for toothache!!

4

Ornamented Headstones

Those 18th century headstones were sculpted by Miles Brien, T. & M. Hancock and depict the Crucifixion – usually accompanied by the two thieves, angels, the sun and the moon. One fine example of the work of local stonemason Kehoe, from Marley shows the Baptism in the river Jordan while another depicts the four Irish saints Moling, Patrick, Brigid and Columbkille.

5

Heritage Centre

Former Church of Ireland built in 1811 by a grant of £800 from the Board of First Fruits. It rarely had a large congregation. The story is told that the local clergyman fearing that his bishop might close the church, borrowed the Catholic congregation for the bishop’s visit. The dutifully imitated the only Protestant attending and lustily sang the hymns!! The bishop went away happy. There are five monuments to the McMurrough Kavanaghs of Borris House who are buried in the vault here. The church was acquired by St. Mullins Muintir na Tire for use as a Heritage Centre in 1986. All aspects of local history including publications, church records, maps, old photographs and small artefacts are on display here.

6

Teampall Mor

St. Moling is buried here. It has a fine pointed arch window and 14th century belfry, the bell still being rung at funerals today. The earlier church was enlarged in the 9th/10th century, possibly when the round tower was built. A slab recording the oldest person, Catherine Doyle who died aged 126 is set in the wall of this ruin.

7

The Abbey

A medieval nave and chancel church. Only the west and part of the south walls still stand. The worked stones of the 15th century east window and the altar were excavated around 1900. It is said that Freney the Highwayman (died 1788) had a secure hiding place at the top of the spiral staircase, as it was then heavily covered in ivy. This is known locally as “Freney’s Den”

8

Base of Round Tower

Excavated in 1880. Originally free standing it was connected by a spiral staircase to the Abbey in the 15th century. The walls were built by the standard method of Roman wall construction which must have been brought to Ireland by early Christian missionaries.

9

Ruin

Three Kavanagh memorials adorn the wall of this building. Grose’s illustration shows that this building was stone-roofed in 1792. The roof has disappeared by the first Ordnance Survey in 1839. The grave of Art McMurrough Kavanagh, King of Leinster, poisoned at New Ross in 1417 is located behind the ruin. Nearby is the grave of General Thomas Cloney who led the Irish at the Battle of the Three Bullet Gate, New Ross in the Wexford Rising in 1798.

10

Domestic Building

This has a diamond shaped window in the eastern gable and a flue and fireplace in the north wall. Within lies a flat stone slab with a large central cross and skull and crossbones recording Daniel Kinsellagh who died in 1646, the oldest legible memorial in the graveyard when Dr. M. Comerford complied his history in 1886.

11

St. James' Cell

A small oratory included in the pilgrimage. The watercourse was blessed on St. James’ Feastday, July 25th. The pattern is held each year on the Sunday before St. James’ Day as he is the patron of pilgrims.

12

9th Century Celtic High Cross

Dates from the 9th century. Made of granite with the Crucifixion and the Apostles on the east face and interlacing, spiral patter and wave-link motifs on the other faces. It has a solid ring in the intersection. Part of the shaft is missing, as it now only stands seven feet high. Each round of prayer for the pilgrimage finished here.

St. Moling's Mill

St. Moling is reputed to be the first person to import rye into Ireland for his corn mill, the exact location of which is difficult to establish today. A bottom stone and part of a top stone of a mill five feet in diameter are to be seen by the Pilgrim’s Way.

The Pilgrimage

This dates from the earliest times to the Shrine of St. Moling. It was well established in 1348, recorded by Friar Clyn in his annals at the time of the Black Death. The pilgrimage started at the Blessed Well with the drinking of the water and praying, then going barefoot, praying through the Well stream crossing the river to the ruins. The ruined churches were circled three times, praying at certain places, finishing each round at the High Cross. Pilgrims then entered Teampall Mor praying nine times round and old stone slab, placing a small stone there after each round. They then prayed under the east window where the Altar once stood, placing a leaf on the window. They finished by kissing the stone underneath the window where tradition says St. Moling is buried.

13

The Blessed Well

This consists of a stone reservoir and a small oratory into which the water flows through two openings cut in large stones in the wall. The water flows down to the rough flagstone floor and passes out through the doorway. The projection of the side walls beyond the gable is typical of early Celtic monastic architecture. Cures for blindness, headaches and ulcers have been reported. The pilgrimage starts here.

Cashlanmoyle

Nothing remains of this fortified tower built in the 16th century to guard the Barrow against the Kavanaghs. A levy of £350 was made on Wexford and Kilkenny to finance the building. Stone from it was used in the building of the nearby corn mill. At the beginning of the last century a vaulted arch still stood in the field to the west of the monastic ruins.

14

Barrow Navigation

In 1537 an Act by Henry VIII which demanded that weirs and mill ponds did not obstruct navigation on the Barrow. In the early 18th century many petitions went before Parliament for permission and financial aid to make the Barrow navigable. In 1750 the building of the lock system began at Bahana, St. Mullins. By 1785 the Barrow was navigable from St. Mullins to Monasterevin. Boats were pulled along tow-paths by haulers, who were replaced by horses as the tonnage got heavier. These were in turn replaced by engine powered barges at the turn of this century. A thriving cargo and passenger trade existed for 150 years. Today the locks and towpaths are valued leisure amenities.

15

Drummin Bog

The only raised bog in the south-east. It is over 20 feet deep and has a wonderful ecology all of its own. Noted for its wild orchids, it is now a designated wildlife sanctuary affording protection for its unique flora and fauna. Guided tours are given by appointment, contact: drumminbog@gmail.com

"Cripples Cottage”

This was used by Arthur McMurrough Kavanagh born in 1831 without arms or legs. He learned to ride, shoot and fish. He travelled to India on horseback. He became MP and sailed his yacht “Eva” from St. Mullins to the Houses of the Parliament in London. Nothing remains of the cottage but part of the slipway may still be seen.

16

Poulmounty Castle

Very little remains of this once powerful Kavanagh stronghold. Portion of a wall now standing shows the remains of a stone stairway. This castle must have been destroyed by gunpowder as parts of the walls lie some twenty feet from the main building. The famous melody “Eileen Aroon” was first performed here by Carol O’Daly, for his sweetheart Eileen Kavanagh to lure her away with him on the eve of her marriage to Philip de la Roche of Coolhill Castle.

17

Coolhill Castle

A 14th century circular castle situated on the Kilkenny bank of the Barrow which was once the stronghold of the De la Rupes – feudal lords of the Rower, who later became known as Roches.

Templenaboe

Ruined “Church of the Cows” built in thanksgiving for the remission by St. Moling of the Borumean Tribute. This was an oppressive tax paid by the Leinsterman, in cows and other goods to the High Kings of Ireland. Unbaptised babies were buried here up to the 1950s.

18

Star Fort at Coolyhune

Pentagonal fort with bastions enclosing the summit of a hill. Built in 1581 to command the River Barrow and protect the trade of New Ross against the Irish, who continued to harass the English and seize the goods of the traders on the Barrow. It was abandoned as a place of defence in 1634 and garrison paid off and discharged.

19

St. Michael’s Church & Holy Well

These ruins situated in small graveyard are dedicated to St. Michael and are of early Celtic origin. Nearby is the tomb of John Patsull, said to have been a Catholic priest, a Protestant parson and again a Catholic priest before his death in 1766. St. Michael’s Well is close by. Michaelmas Day September 29th is still very important in the locality. A fair is still held on that day.

20

Tinnahinch Castle

Built about 1615 by James Butler who later lost his lands because of his involvement in the Confederate War in 1641. It was built to control a crossing where a wooden bridge once spanned the Barrow. Many tales abound of the wild romances and lawless deeds of the butlers of Tinnahinch.

21

Duiske Abbey

Cistercian monks from Stanley Abbey, Wiltshire began building here in 1204. Granite, slate and flags were quarried locally. Stone used for decoration of the windows and arches was quarried at Dundry near Bristol and hauled up the Barrow in flat-bottomed boats to St. Mullins. From here it was finally carried by teams of men as near as possible to the building site. Duiske survived many fluctuations in its fortunes down through the centuries. This beautifully restored Abbey is worthy of a leisurely visit.

Newtown

Ruins of an early Christian church and also a medieval church separated by two fields. It was known as “Nova Villa” when craftsmen building Duiske Abbey lived here from 1204.

22

Clashganny

Reputed to be the most photographed lock in Ireland. There is a Mass Rock high on the steep slope in the wood. Near the disused corn mill there is a magnificent Giant Redwood (Sequoia) Tree. It was here that Thomas Moore was moved to compose the song “Oft in the Stilly Night”.

23

Borris House

Seat of the McMurrough Kavanaghs, descendants of the King of Leinster whose family line can be traced back without interruption to Dermot McMurrough (died 1171). It is a spacious and magnificent structure situated on a hill commanding wide views of the Barrow Valley and the Blackstairs range. The house and its occupants have formed an important part of the history in south Carlow down through the centuries. Attached to Borris House is a church dedicated to St. Moling.

Tower Houses at Ballybeg

Now in ruins these were built by the McMurrough Kavanaghs in 1840 to prevent farmers from exercising grazing rights on the Blackstairs mountains. The dispute went on for sixteen years. Daniel O’Connell won the lawsuit for the farmers. The judge ruled that the buildings had to be destroyed.

24

Ballymurphy

Approximately a mile from here is located the Rathgeran Stone. It is a richly decorated coffin shaped slab with five groups of concentric circles on it, two of which appear to be connected. It dates from the Newgrange era, at least 4.000 B.C. Nearby are the encircling stones of what is believed to be a Bronze Age passage. From here the visitor has the choice of two scenic drives, north to Mount Leinster and Nine Stones or south to Killane.

The End

Once people have reached the end of the tour now is a good time to thank them for taking the time to complete the tour. You may also give instructions on how to get back the start point, ways to get home or a great place to stop and have a relaxing drink. Now that you've finished adding places it's time to add a map and edit the main tour details. Adding a map To add a map switch to the Map View above and either upload your own map or place the points on the Google Map. You can also draw the route on the map using the route drawing tool. Edit tour details Click on the Edit Tour Details above to add some additonal information about the tour. On the edit screen you can: Upload a tour icon/image Change the tour name Add a tour description that users will see before downloading the tour Select a tour type Set a tour price