Welcome to Loch Lomond
Welcome to Loch Lomond, known as the Queen of Scottish lochs. It is the largest expanse of fresh water in Great Britain, 23 miles long, 5 miles wide and at it’s deepest point, at the northern end, the loch is 636 feet deep, making it the third deepest in Scotland.The river Leven, at Loch Lomond’s southern end, is its only outlet running from here into the river Clyde in Dumbarton and from there, into the Atlantic Ocean.The river Leven, which we are now leaving, is the Loch’s only outlet running from here into the river Clyde in Dumbarton and from there, into the Atlantic Ocean.The area is home to an abundance of wildlife and its history is as rich as the landscape that surrounds these mysterious waters. It is a place where kings have trod and outlaws roamed, it has inspired writers, musicians and artists for generations.
Steamship Maid of the Loch
It was during the Victorian era that Loch Lomond became famous across the world thanks, in large part, to the Romantic novels of the likes of Tobias Smollett and Sir Walter Scott. Day trippers would travel here by train from Glasgow to cruise aboard large paddle steamers like the one we’re passing on the left. This is the Maid of the Loch, the very last paddle steamer to be built in Britain. She was built in 1953 on the river Clyde in Glasgow and brought to Loch Lomond by train in sections before being assembled on the Loch- side. She represents those by- gone days where she and many ships like her would sail the length of the Loch filled with visitors. These ships also provided a valuable mail and transportation service to the local communities. As with many coal and steam powered vehicles, mounting maintenance and running costs saw the ship retired in 1981. She now stands as a monument to both Glasgow shipbuilding and Loch Lomond’s steam powered past.
Loch Lomond Houses
The birth of the industrial revolution in Great Britain saw the establishment of Glasgow and the river Clyde as both the world’s premier shipbuilding city and as a major shipping port between Europe and the Americas. This saw a boom in wealth to the area in the 1800’s. The trade routes, which saw Glasgow flourish, traded textiles from Europe to the Caribbean, sugar and molasses to America and tobacco back to Glasgow. At one time 50% of all the tobacco in Europe had arrived via Glasgow. The wealthiest of these Glasgow tobacco lords were able to live the lavish lifestyles of aristocrats, building European style villas in Glasgow and the surrounding area. Whilst the billionaires of today buy super yachts, their equivalent in the 1800’s built grand country mansions for hunting and fishing for which the land around Loch Lomond became prime real estate. During this cruise we’ll pass just a few of these houses built by these superrich tobacco barons, shipbuilders and merchant bankers.
Cameron House
Cameron House was built in 18th century by the Smollett family, a family of shipbuilders and merchants whose most famous member was the poet and novelist Tobias Smollett. Such was the wealth and influence of the Smollett’s the house has welcomed a few famous guests in its time; former prime ministers Winston Churchill and Anthony Eden as well as Empress Eugene of France. As was the case with many ancestral homes across Britain the costs of upkeep, staff and servants became unsustainable for the family. It was sold in 1986 and, after extensive additions to the original building, Cameron House was converted into a luxury 5 star hotel and resort.
Auchendennan House
The large house on the hill that you may be able to spot between the trees on the left is Auchendennan house. Auchendennan house was commissioned in 1860 by the Glasgow based tobacco merchant George Martin and was designed by famed Scottish architect John Burnet. During the Second World War the house was used as a convalescing home for American servicemen coming from the front. After the war, as a goodwill gesture, the house was converted into a youth hostel thanks to a generous donation from American trade unions. The house remained a youth hostel until 2012. Today it is owned by Loch Lomond distillery who use it as a base for their offices. Legend has it the house marks the site of the hunting lodge of King Robert the Bruce who owned much of the land and islands on Loch Lomond. These he used as his private hunting estate, introducing much of the deer and game birds to the islands and surrounding area.
Highland Boundary Faultline
Looking looking left and right between Loch Lomond's east and west banks, this is the widest part of Loch Lomond at a distance of 5 miles. As we look ahead, you may be able to notice a line can be drawn between the hills on each shore and the islands between them. This is the highland boundary fault line which cuts across Scotland separating the highlands from the lowlands. It’s a geological fault created when the islands that formed Scotland crashed together 500 million years ago. It runs from Stonehaven, Aberdeenshire in the east to the Isle of Arran in the west.The difference can also be seen in the surrounding landscape as the rolling hills and meadows of the lowlands behind us make way to the rugged peaks of the highlands ahead. As we cross this boundary we will and enter into the Scottish highlands. This fact earns Loch Lomond the title “The Gateway to the Highlands”.The difference can also be seen in the surrounding landscape as the rolling hills and meadows of the lowlands ahead of us make way to the rugged peaks of the highlands behind. As we cross this boundary we will and enter into the Scottish lowlands. This fact earns Loch Lomond the title “The Gateway to the Highlands”.
Glen Fruin
Before the industrial revolution of the 1800’s the meeting of these two contrasting landscapes was reflected in the meeting of 2 contrasting cultures: the hardier, more traditional highland clans and the increasingly genteel lowlanders. This melting pot situation often led to disagreements and conflict. Not far from here, behind the hills to Loch Lomond’s south- western bank on our left/ right lies Glen Fruin or “the glen of sorrow”. Glen Fruin is the site of one of the most gruesome battles in Scotland’s history. In 1603 a dispute between two rival clans, Colquhoun and MacGregor, culminated in the two meeting for a pitched battle in the glen. Despite being outnumbered 2 to 1, the hardier and more battle experienced MacGregors managed to flank the Colquhoun forces and what began as a battle became a massacre. The story goes that for the 200 casualties the Colquhoun’s suffered, the MacGregor’s lost only 2. To further demonstrate the contrasting cultures between highland and lowland life, the battle was observed by local students and scholars, who according to local legend were also put to the sword. Due to the mercilessness of the MacGregor’s, King James VI had their clan chiefs executed and decreed that the MacGregor name was to be abolished “by pain of death”, a judgment that would not be lifted until 1775. 172 years later.
Inchmurrin Island
The 23 named islands of Loch Lomond are known as the jewels in her crown, and each has their own unique history and legend. In ancient times the islands became home to what was to be kept safe… or secret. There are the remains of ancient, illicit whisky stills on several the islands, as well as the ruins of many monasteries and castles. One of Loch Lomond’s islands, Inchcallioch, is even home to around 50 wallabies, which were brought from Australia in the 1950’s.Inchmurrin Island is the largest. it is a mile and a half long by half a mile wide and is the largest inland island in Great Britain. The island has been inhabited since the 6th century when the monks of St Mirren set up a monastery here. Between the trees on the bank you may be able to spot the ruined remains of Lennox Castle. The castle was built by Duncan the 8th Earl of Lennox in 1393. It was, for a short time, the residence of Mary queen of Scots before her capture and execution on the orders of her half sister Queen Elizabeth I of England. Much later, another famous visitor to the island was legendary Scottish outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor who led a night raid on the island, which by this time was used a base for government forces. He and his clansmen stole the island’s cattle, as well as all of the islands boats to avoid pursuit. Today the island is privately owned by the Scott family. It has a small farm, hotel and restaurant and is a very popular destination in summer for local boat owners and water sport enthusiasts. During the summer months they run a ferry service between the Island and Arden for visitors.
Lennox Castle
Between the trees on the bank of Inchmurrin Island you may be able to spot the ruined remains of Lennox Castle. This castle was built by Duncan, the 8th Earl of Lennox, in 1393 to escape the plague which was ravishing the mainland at the time.The great earldom of Lennox lasted for 400 years between the 11th and 15th century. It was made up of what is now known as Dumbartonshire as well as parts of Stirlingshire and Argyle and Bute, at it’s heart lay Loch Lomond which the Lennox clan chose as their base. All who lived in the area did so under the rule and protection of the Earl. This included two of the most famous names in Scottish history. During the Scottish wars of independence both William Wallace and Robert the Bruce were separately given permission by Malcolm 5th Earl of Lennox to use Loch Lomondside as a bolt hole and hiding place during this violent period in Scotland’s history. William Wallace’s presence in the area is evidenced in Wallace’s isle at the north end of Loch Lomond where legend has it he once took refuge. Robert the Bruce relied heavily upon the Lennox family and their forces during his campaign to become King of Scotland. He commended the men of Lennox for their bravery during the battle of Bannockburn where he finally took the throne in 1314. In his later years as King it is known he and the Earl hunted together in the surrounding countryside and islands.Much later in it’s existence Lennox Castle was home to Mary Queen of Scots before her capture and execution on the orders of her half sister Queen Elizabeth I of England.. It became a favourite hunting destination of her son King James 6th of Scotland who would later also ascend the throne of England to become king James 1st of Great Britain. Yes, for those of you who don’t know; it was the Scottish king who took the throne of England to unite the crowns.
Ross Dhu House
Rossdhu House was built in 1773 and is the ancestral home of the Clan Colquhoun. It now accommodates the clubhouse for Loch Lomond Golf Club and houses bedrooms, dining rooms, restaurants and locker rooms.Endowed with mature trees and breath-taking views, Loch Lomond’s golf course was designed by American golfer Tom Weiskopf (Wise-kof) and Jay Moorish and is revered by golfers the world over. Described by Tom Weiskopf as his “lasting memorial to golf” the 7,100 yard parkland course hosted the Barclays Scottish Open for many years as well as the Solheim Cup, and ranks among the best courses in the world. The Club itself is among the world’s most exclusive and it’s invite only membership lists boasts names from all over the world. Joining fees are more than £100,000.The course record of 61 is held by the South African golfer Retief Goosen.
Inchgalbraith
The small tree clad island is the island of Inchgalbraith. Despite its small size Inchgalbriath is home to a medieval castle which is just visible behind the trees. Built in the 16th century the castle was a stronghold of the Galbraith clan who had a small foothold over some territories around Loch Lomond at that time before their move to Ireland in the 17th century. The name Galbraith translates from Gaelic to “children of the Britons” which points to a far more ancient origin of the clan. The Britons were the Celtic people who inhabited parts of the British Isles during Britain’s post- Roman era. Before the forming of the countries we know today the kingdom of the Britons spanned from the very south west of England all the way north along the west coast as far north as Loch Lomond. It may surprise you to know the people of this area spoke an ancient form of Welsh.
Inchmoan
The next island we are passing on the right is the island of Inchmoan which in Gaelic means island of peat. For centuries the inhabitants of the surrounding area used Inchmoan as their source of peat fuel, rowing out to the island during the summer months to cut and gather ahead of the winter months when the dried peat would be used to burn in fires. Inchmoan is, nowadays, a very popular island for locals in warm summer days thanks to its long sandy beaches and shallow bays.
Inchtavannach
On the left is the island of Inchtavannach, or, “Monks Island” in Gaellic. In 520 AD St Kessog brought Christianity here from Ireland. St Kessog was a missionary who, it is said, had been performing miracles since childhood. He and his followers built a monastery on the island. The highest point of the island is called “Tam na Clag” meaning the hill of the bell, so called because the monks erected a large bell on the hill. To early Christians the bell symbolised the voice of God. Special bells like this were ritually blessed and were used for spiritual purposes such as casting out evil spirits, healing the sick and to summon the faithful to prayer. St Kessog was martyred not far from here, at Bandry. His burial cairn sat at the southern tip of the island became a sight of pilgrimage for Scots Christians. He was made patron saint of Scotland before St Andrew and his name used as a battle cry for Scottish warriors.
Inchconnachan
On the right is the island of Inchconnochan, named for the Colquhoun Clan who own much of the land in and around Loch Lomond to this day. Don’t be surprised if you see wallabies on this island. The miniature kangaroos were brought from Australia by lady Arran Colquhoun in the 1950’s. Their numbers have increased to approximately 50 and can still be found roaming the island today. Once we sail round the corner you will see the loch open up into its northern end. It winds up through the mountains for a further 14 miles to the village of Ardlui.
Illicit Whisky Stills
An important early economy for the Loch Lomond area was the secret distilling and smuggling of whisky, which, during the 1600’s was heavily taxed by the Scottish government. Loch Lomond’s islands became the perfect locations to set up illicit whisky stills, out of sight of government excise men. The remains of many of these stills can still be found on some of the islands today, with intricate networks of rails and makeshift canals for transporting the whisky onto boats for smuggling to the mainland. According to local legend, when excise men were searching the area men from the surrounding villages would take to their boats singing loudly as they rowed to alert the smugglers, no doubt the favour would be repaid with a few bottles of whisky. Today Loch Lomond’s whisky making tradition is upheld by the completely legal and legitimate Loch Lomond distillery in nearby Vale of Leven, makers of Loch Lomond and Inchmurrin whiskies. Fans of Tin Tin cartoons may be interested that these were the favourite whiskies of Captain Haddock.
Inchlonaig
Inchlonaig is the second largest island on Loch Lomond. It’s name means “island of the ewe trees”. The large number of ewe trees on the island were planted under the orders of King Robert the Bruce to supply bows for his archers in the Scottish army. These valuable trees would have been planted here to protect cattle as Ewe tree bark is poisonous to wildlife. Human history on the island may date back even further still, stone tools were once found on Inchlonaig which could date as far back as 5000 bc.
Luss
The village of Luss has been inhabited since the 6th century when the inhabitants were mainly farmers and fishermen. However in the late 18th century small cottages were built to accommodate workers from the nearby cotton mill and the local slate quarries. The population of the village today is around 700 and has been given conservation status by historic Scotland. Amongst the points of interest the 19th century church to the south of the village is a very popular wedding venue. It’s gave yard contains graves dating back to the sixth century. Also to be found in the graveyard is a Viking hogback grave. Evidence of a Viking influence, which occurred here at the time of the early Christians. The name Luss derives from the amount of fleur de Lys that grow in the area. In the early 14th century during the 100 years war between England and France a Scottish baroness, who was born in the village, left for France to marry a French soldier. When she died young her body was sent back home to be buried covered in flowers, in particular Fluer de lys. The flower took root here and has grown wild in the area ever since.
Ben Lomond
Ben Lomond stands at 3192 feet and is the most southerly of Scotland’s 282 Munros, a Munro being a Scottish mountain over 3000 feet (950 meters) high. It is a very popular mountain with hillwalkers and on a clear day has views as far out as the North coast of Ireland. The name Ben Lomond translates as Beacon Mountain, Ben coming from the Gaelic word for mountain and Lomond from the Brittonic word Laomainn (Loo-m-ee-an) meaning beacon. It is thought that a signal beacon would be lit at the top of the mountain by the Brittonic tribes who populated this area between the 5th and 10th centuries. There are 6 other mountains in the world named Ben Lomond, in Canada, the United States, New Zealand, Tasmania and Australia all of them named after the one you see here today by Scottish settlers to remind themselves of home.
Fraoch Isle
The small rocky island we are passing is Fraoch Island or heather isle in Gaelic. It is more commonly known to locals, however, as Jail Rock as in the 18th century the island was used as a prison. Locals could also be banished to the island for a time for smaller crimes or to dry out from excessive alchohol use. It is also local legend that men would row disagreeable wives out to the island and leave them there for a night or two for some quiet reflection...
Crannog
Near the village of Aldochlay you’ll be able to spot a small island near the shore. As a Matter of fact, this isn’t an island at all.... It is the overgrown remains of a crannog. A crannog is a type of medieval dwelling, a man made island. They were created by driving wooden piles into the waterbed in a circle to create a base for the structure. As the structure would be accessed by some sort of draw- bridge this type of dwelling would provide excellent protection from marauders or predators such as wolves, which have since, been hunted to extinction in Scotland.
Wee Peter
Near the shoreline you may be able to spot a small statue of a boy dancing above the water. The statue is called “Wee Peter” and was erected in 1890 by a man named William Kerr, who, along with his brother and sister was orphaned at a young age. They were brought up by a lady in Luss and, after moving to London as an adult to make his fortune as a stone mason, he returned and erected this statue as a thank you to the people of Luss for his happy childhood there.
Formation
Whilst Scotland and the British isles were formed 500 million years ago, it may surprise you to know that Loch Lomond only dates back 12,000 years to the end of the last ice age. At that time Scotland was covered in glacial ice up to a mile deep in places. As this ice melted away over centuries it gouged deep canyons into the land forming the many famous lochs of Scotland. In its early years Loch Lomond was connected to the sea before the land at its southern end rose up, trapping the water, which is now replenished by the burns and rivers of the surrounding hills and mountains. The Loch’s catchment area for rainfall is 270 squared km and its water level can fluctuate by as much as 3 meters between seasons.
Vikings
It wasn’t just clashing clans that saw bloodshed reach the shores of Loch Lomond. In 1263 King Haakon of Norway led an expedition into Scotland to re-establish Norwegian control over Scotland’s western isles. The Viking flotilla entered Scotland from the west coast and was able to sail to neighbouring Loch Long where a breakaway fleet led by King Magnus of Mann were commanded to drag their long boats 1 and a half miles overland to Loch Lomond. With the Lennox forces leaving to join with the rest of the Scottish army, Loch Lomondside had been left defenceless. The Vikings undertook a three day reign of terror, burning and pillaging their way through the undefended monasteries, crofts and villages lining the Loch’s shores and islands. The breakaway fleet exited Loch Lomond via the river Leven and reassembled with the main Norwegian army in Dumbarton. They were eventually defeated by the forces of King Alexander II at what is now known as the Battle of Largs. It was to be the last ever Viking expedition to the British Isles, forever leaving the western isles of Scotland under Scottish control.
Wildlife
The Loch and it’s shores are home to a variety of mammals including wildcats, deer and goats as well as around 200 species of birds that inhabit or visit the loch side. The most renowned of these being golden eagles, falcons and ospreys. The loch itself is also home to around 14 species of fish, the most prominent being salmon and sea trout. There is also a rare type of fresh water herring called powan which can only be found in three other lochs in Scotland. On one of Loch Lomond’s Islands, Inchconnochan, there is also a mob of Wallabies who were first introduced in the 1950’s.
Clans
Throughout our cruise today we have spoken about the clans of Loch Lomond. The main ones of the area being Lennox, MacGregor, Colquhoun, Buchannan and MacFarlane. But what is a clan? The clan system was a way of structuring ancient Scottish society. At the head of each clan would be a clan chief who would usually be the owner of the land of the clan’s territories. The chief would be answerable directly to the king. Contrary to common belief not all members of the clan are part of 1 family, although most would take the surname of the clan they belonged. Most clan members were tenants of the land and would pay a rent, or “fee” to their chief. In return they lived under the chief’s protection but could be called to arms to settle land disputes or disagreements. The clan system lasted from around 1000 AD until the end of the last Jacobite uprising in in 1746 when Bonnie Prince Charlie was defeated at the battle of Culloden. In the aftermath of this battle the clan system was abolished and the wearing of tartan outlawed. It wasn’t until the great Sir Walter Scott, found the Scottish crown jewels in 1818 that there was a resurgence in Scottish culture.Scott, who was a lawyer, novelist and historian, had been charged with locating the lost honours of Scotland by George IV which were found hidden in a chest in Edinburgh castle. Their unveiling to the public was a historic PR event engineered by Scott, attendees were encouraged to come in highland attire, even King George attended head to toe in Scottish tartan. It was only thanks to Sir Walter Scott’s commitment that these aspects of Scottish national identity and culture were revived.Today, if you have a Scottish surname and still have a recognised clan chief, you can consider yourself part of that clan, no application process necessary.
Recreation on Loch Lomond
Whilst the early inhabitants in the area were more concerned with making a living through farming and fishing, much of Loch Lomond’s history is connected with it’s use for recreational activities. Many of the islands and surrounding landscape was historically used for hunting by the “noble class” of Scotland, much of the wildlife on the islands was introduced for the purpose of hunting. Recreational fishing has also been a popular pastime over the centuries. In 2013 the Loch Lomond Angling Association introduced a catch and release policy on the Loch which has seen, not only the number of fish increase but also an increase in the numbers of nesting birds of prey in the area. There are many famous walks and trails around the local area, one of the most famous being the west highland way which starts in nearby Milngavie, stretches past Loch Lomond at conic hill in Balmaha and all the way to Fort William. In more recent times recreational activities on Loch Lomond have become dominated by water sports. The local rowing club is among the oldest in the world having been founded in 1827 but also more recently, open water swimming and paddle boarding have become increasingly popular pass times of locals and visitors alike.
Balloch Castle
Balloch Castle was built in 1901 on the site of a much more ancient castle which was the seat of the Earls of Lennox. It sits within a large country park which is owned by Glasgow city council. The 200-acre park features walks and nature trails. A particular highlight of the park and castle grounds are the walled and Chinese gardens.
