801 - Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall
801 - Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall, 1913 Viewed from the campus Circle to the West, it appears that Julia Morgan intended the Social Hall to be the center of activity. Visitors entered the west side of the Administration Building, now known as the Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall, from a terraced concrete and stone patio, which was replaced with a modern redwood deck in 1974. Morgan set the building's foundation into the side of the hill, battered the granite pilasters, and clad the frieze in pine logs with the bark let on. The cupola and bronze bell, originally slated for the chapel Auditorium, were installed in 1915. The social Hall, like all the Morgan buildings, included hot and cold running water and lights powered by electricity drawn from the Hotel Del Monte, in Monterey. As you pass through the thick redwood doors, your eyes are drawn to the massive stone fireplace. The redwood beams, wood floors, and darkly stained trim are common in California's Arts and Crafts architecture, and help reinforce the intimacy of the fire. Note the unfinished natural redwood details in the ceiling and walls, and the tall, single light casement windows with transoms. The room on your right, where Phoebe's Café is now located, originally contained a Post Office and stenographer's desk. the north side of the building, where the Park Store is located, originally held a classroom, a library and a gift shop.
802. Grace H Dodge Chapel Auditorium
802 - Grace Dodge Chapel Auditorium, 1915 The Grace Dodge Chapel Auditorium was Morgan's second permanent building at Asilomar. As with her other Asilomar buildings, Morgan left the exterior wood unfinished. The Chapel features deeply pointed stone rubble of varying sizes and shapes, and stone ledges that jut out from below the window bays and from the top of the chimney. As with the social Hall frieze, gable ends and window bays were clad in bark-on pine logs. The central auditorium is flanked with wings that can be closed to serve as meeting rooms. One notable interior feature is the carved, goldleaf covered inscription below the clerestory, adapted from Psalms 93:4 and Isaiah 49:13, augmented by a recessed shell pattern. The enormous plate glass window behind the stage reveals the dunes and forest and fills the interior with the sunset's changing colors.
803. Visitor's Lodge
803 - Visitor's Lodge, 1915 Morgan designed the Visitor's Lodge for the YWCA's leaders and guests, as well as to attract overnight visitors willing to pay for such comforts as a private fireplace. Nevertheless, her design directs everyone toward a living room to socialize around a stone hearth. Morgan's singular design also includes a commanding split redwood staircase with squared floor-to-ceiling newels and balustrades. The building also features redwood board and batten walls and ceilings in the living and sleeping rooms. Private baths were added to all sleeping rooms in the 1950s. At the same time, the Trunk Room - a relic of the railroad era located behind the stairs - was incorporated into the room next door. A sleeping porch, which had been built on the north side of the building, was removed ad replaced with the fire escape in the 1970s.
804. Scripps Lodge Annex
804 - Scripps Lodge Annex, 1927The YWCA commissioned Julia Morgan to construct new buildings as funding became available. The 1927 Scripps Lodge Annex was the result of a generous donation by Ellen Browning Scripps of La Jolla, California, who also paid for Class Hall (built in 1918 and destroyed by fire in 1955).The multi-purpose Scripps building was designed to accommodate year-round "leisure" visitors to Asilomar. The large meeting room on the southeast end was originally a restaurant with a full-service kitchen that later became the laundry for the grounds. The interior living room folding doors were a later addition, while the stone fireplace, redwood board and batten walls, and bracketed beams are original. The exterior terraced patio was once surrounded by tall Monterey pines.
805. Director's Cottage
Director’s Cottage was completed in 1927. The cottage and three acres of forestland behind it marked the northeast boundary of the YWCA summer camp. This cottage was scheduled to be built in 1925. But YWCA camp Director Edith Stanton decided the money should be spent on an outdoor swimming pool for the women, rather than housing for the director.
806. Viewpoint/Health Cottage
The young women of Asilomar’s early days called this building “Health Cottage”. It once served as a small infirmary. Julia Morgan built the “Health Cottage” to house a nursing staff and the swimming pool’s Red Cross lifeguard. Nowadays “Health Cottage” is known as Viewpoint. The building consists of offices and a small meeting room in the east wing.
807. Stone Pillar
For most visitors, the two pillars that flank the entrance road are their first view of Asilomar. And, like so much here, they were conceived and designed by Julia Morgan. They’re constructed of local granite, and they’ve been standing here at the intersection of Asilomar Avenue and Sinex (sin-icks) Avenue since 1913, welcoming visitors inside. From here, the road sweeps down, towards the circle of buildings at the center of Asilomar: the Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall, the Mary Ann Crocker Dining Hall, and the Grace H. Dodge Chapel Auditorium. These columns are a passageway to a quieter, more natural, more contemplative place.
808. Stuck-up Inn
808 - Stuck-Up Inn, 1918 Opened for the 1918 conference season, the Stuck-up Inn featured sleeping rooms separated with canvas drapes, which were also used for exterior walls. Nevertheless, staying in the Stuck-up Inn was probably a luxury for the girls. Those who worked during conferences, either in the dining hall, in housekeeping, or as counselors, were among the privileged few allowed to stay here (see the hallway exhibit for their story). In the early years a room next to the main entry was reserved for the house mother. The living room includes rough debarked log trusses and the only brick fireplace Morgan built in the YWCA housing at Asilomar. Morgan added built-in bookcases and storage units, and installed seating beneath the west windows, which afforded a view of the thick forest that surrounded the building when it was constructed. The east wing, added in the early 1920s, created an enclosed courtyard that still provides one of the most private spaces on the conference grounds. As with the tent houses, the Health Cottage, and Pirates' Den, the crawl space was enclosed with repurposed rustic pine stick work.
809. Engineer's Cottage
Julia Morgan designed this little building, the Engineer’s Cottage, in 1913. She built it for herself to live in and use as a construction site office while she supervised the work for her other Asilomar buildings. After Asilomar was sold to California State Parks in 1956, the building was used for several different functions. In 1961 while the Crocker Dining Hall was closed five months for remodeling, the cottage was nicknamed “The Bread Box and Salad Bowl.” The concessionaire prepared 70,000 meals in the cottage’s kitchen for park guests staying on the conference grounds. In later years it was used as a state park training classroom and administrative offices for the state fire academy. In 2003, state parks approved to have the building converted back into a two-bedroom guest suite.
810. Merrill Hall
810 - Mary S. Merrill Recreation Auditorium The Basilica-shaped Merrill Recreation Auditorium was opened on April 22, 1928, in a ceremony dedicated to the memory of Mary Sroufe Merrill, first chair of the YWCA Asilomar Committee. Merrill's philanthropic work in the San Francisco Bay Area earned her the respect of many friends who paid all of the building's construction costs. it was the last Morgan design constructed on the grounds and represents the high point of the YWCA at Asilomar. The building is clad with redwood shingles and once had bark-on pine log detail. It features amber-glazed arched hopper windows at the ridge and clerestory, numerous large casement windows designed to look like double-hung windows, and twelve-lite center pivot windows providing a view of the dunes and ocean to the west. The Carmel flagstone veneer on the west façade and chimney match the short walls surrounding the patios and walkways. the walkways originally extended north to Class Hall, which burned in 1955. Morgan borrowed the interior plan from St. John's Presbyterian Church in Berkeley (1912), and included arched trusses of heavy redwood timber joined with ornamental iron work. On the west end of the interior she added a folding redwood partition to create the Club Room, which includes a massive Carmel-stone fireplace. Artistic ornamentation was added below the windows and is evocative of Asilomar's natural environment: the wildflowers of the Natural Dunes and the marine life of the Pacific Ocean.
811. Pirates' Den
811 - Pirates' Den, 1923Designed as the men's dormitory, this 1923 building became known as the Pirates' Den in honor of the male staff hired by the YWCA each summer to assist with the heavier maintenance duties needed at the conference grounds. As with the Stuck-Up Inn, Morgan included a living room with redwood board and batten paneling, rustic debarked log trusses, and stone fireplace. the original south end - supported by trusses and surrounded by rustic pine stick work - included 12 open-sided sleeping rooms draped in striped canvas, and a shared restroom. In the 1930s, the sleeping quarters were enclosed with windows, and the lower half of the building was infilled.This group of plucky young men often provided entertainment during meals in the Crocker Dining Hall. There were originally named "Pie Rats" by the dining hall staff for their penchant for pilfering the pie desserts. The name was morphed into "Pirates" by the young men who paid tribute to author Robert Louis Stevenson, by giving themselves names of characters in his novel, "Treasure Island." (See hallway display for the Pirates' story.)
812. Crocker Dining Hall
812 - Mary Ann Crocker dining Hall, 1918 Julia Morgan designed the Mary Ann Crocker Dining Hall in 1918 and built it on the site where the dining tent had been in use since 1913. The exterior cladding is granite stone veneer with wood shingles above the windows. The forward sloping roof includes four glazed dormers and a cupola on the center ridge beam. The entryway provides shelter from the elements for those waiting in the line at the start of meals. Morgan included bare redwood walls, high, open ceilings, exposed trusses, and a pair of fireplaces. To immerse diners in nature, she lined the walls with tall casement windows with transoms. In 1960, architect John Carl Warnecke put his own stamp on the Crocker Dining Hall by adding the Woodlands and Seascape dining rooms on either side of the Morgan construction. His design honors Julia Morgan's precedent while adding more explicit Japanese influences and modern elements. To give the building a more contemporary feel he modified Crocker Dining Hall with single pane windows, removed the dormers (restored by 1999), and elevated the floor 18" to accommodated a mechanical heating and ventilation system. Julia Morgan built a permanent structure in 1918. The Crocker family donated money to build the dining hall in honor of Mary Ann Deming Crocker. She was a philanthropist devoted to the future of women and California. Today, the dining hall staff serves all of Asilomar’s guests. You’ll know it’s time to eat when you hear the bell toll. The bell was added to the Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall around 1915 -- it’s been calling guests to meals for nearly a century!
820. Surf and Sand
Look into the central meeting room of the Surf and Sand conference building. Notice the beams bursting from the center of the ceiling in a star pattern. Long wood panels lead your gaze out into nature. What you can’t see here are the blackboards and projector screens hidden in the walls and ceiling. Retired State Park Superintendent Dennis Hanson. DENNIS HANSON: We the department and the concessionaire are always constantly looking at ways to provide those additional amenities that might be on demand but yet not compromising in the atmosphere of Asilomar. NARRATOR: Surf and Sand were the first structures added to Asilomar after Julia Morgan’s original buildings. California State Parks acquired Asilomar in 1956. Just three years later they hired San Francisco architect John Carl Warnecke as architectural director. Warnecke worked with wood, stone, and glass, incorporating Morgan’s sensibility. His hand-split cedar shakes and sliding glass walls fit right in. Also, notice how Surf and Sand harmonize with nature. Each building seems to float weightlessly above the dunes. Warnecke designed seven major structures at Asilomar.
821. Sea Galaxy
Architect John Carl Warnecke always built in clusters at Asilomar. This one’s called the Sea Galaxy Complex, and it consists of five buildings: Cypress, Shores, Nautilus, Triton and Windward. Warnecke kept Julia Morgan’s Arts and Crafts style in mind. All his buildings are wood and punctuated with plenty of windows and wooden decks. But the size and functionality of this complex strongly affirms Asilomar’s identity as a conference grounds. Retired State Park Superintendent Dennis Hanson. DENNIS HANSON: It provides an atmosphere for the guests that's more natural and more rustic opportunities and more of a camp kind of atmosphere -- which is the -- the basic premise for this facility and was created back by the YWCA…and it's maintained that same atmosphere all these years… It looks like -- a lot like it might have been if you would have visited in 1935 or '45 or '55. NARRATOR: Warnecke always aimed to capture Asilomar as it was in its early years while catering to a modern clientele.
822. The Mott Training Center
State Park Director William Penn Mott, Jr. wanted to strengthen and unify the State Parks system. In 1969, he created the first statewide training program at Asilomar. The initial training classes were held in the Engineer’s Cottage on the grounds, but as the training expanded it outgrew the small cottage. Mott liked the central coast for a training location, and allowed the Asilomar concessionaire to spend funds and purchase the land across the street from the main Asilomar grounds for development. In 1973, the William Penn Mott, Jr. Training Center was built. Today, all California state park rangers begin their careers at the Mott Training Center, and every permanent state park employee will come to the training center for advance schooling.
823. Guest Inn
This building at 825 Asilomar Avenue is known as Guest Inn. It was the private summer residence of Esther Steinbeck Rodgers, the sister of John Steinbeck. She used the residence from the late 1930s until she sold it to state parks in 1972. The story goes that Esther allowed John to stay in the cottage during February and March of 1941. While here, he worked intermittently on his book, The Log from the Sea of Cortez, which he published the same year. The book recounts his voyage through the Gulf of California, whose old name was the Sea of Cortez, with his wife Carol and his friend, biologist Ed Ricketts. The book gives an account of the marine habitat of invertebrates, as well as the alluring appeal of Mexican life, so different from the hurried American lifestyle. This was also the time during which Steinbeck’s love affair with Gwendolyn Conger ruptured his marriage. The two stayed together here in secret. Steinbeck recalled this time several years later in a letter to a friend: MALE VOICE, JOHN STEINBECK [about 40 years old, serious but not grave] When I wrote the text of the Sea of Cortez, Gwen and I were hiding in the pine woods in a cabin and she would sleep late and I would get up and build a big fire and work until noon when she woke up and that would be the end of work for the day and we would go walking in the sand dunes and eat thousands of doughnuts and coffee. I worked very hard.
824. Fireside Complex
DENNIS HANSON: If we do make changes, we're hoping that it's done in the sense of meeting the needs that are more currently reflective of-of the clientele that come here. NARRATOR: That’s Retired State Park Superintendent Dennis Hanson. After twenty-eight years in the Monterey area he witnessed many changes at Asilomar, including the construction of newer buildings like these. In 1976, Clark Davis, of the San Francisco architectural firm of Stone, Marraccini and Patterson, was the principal-in-charge for the Fireside complex project. Clark’s director of design was Michael D. Kelly, who designed the cluster of buildings that provide guest sleeping accommodations and two accompanying meeting rooms. Construction was completed in 1981. Notice how Kelly works with Asilomar’s pre-existing architectural styles. The influence of Arts and Crafts is present in his use of wood and stone. There’s even a bit of Warnecke’s island style in the way these buildings relate around a central open court like a pavilion. Inside, Kelly easily integrates modern amenities. Functional elements like lighting, projection screens, or even chalkboards are everywhere, but they’re always neatly tucked away. The Fireside meeting room was renamed Farr Forum in 1998, after State Senator Fred Farr. Along with Assemblyman Alan Pattee, Farr helped California State Parks purchase Asilomar.
825. Long Views
Christened “Long Views” for the panoramic vista of the dunes and Pacific Ocean, these buildings sit on one of the old camp tent house sites. Asilomar’s original camp lodging was tent houses with decorative striped canvas walls and doors made from pieces of old circus tent. Each unit was built on a raised wood foundation to keep forest animals out. They were furnished with beds and dressers, and equipped with electricity, running water and toilets. By 1935, the canvas walls and doors were replaced with wood. The plumbing was improved, and full service bathrooms with showers were installed. They nicknamed the structures “Long houses.” After Asilomar became a unit of the state park system, the long houses were scheduled to be torn down. In 1966, architect John Carl Warnecke spent $200,000 to design and build three adjoining lodges in their place, known as “Long Views.” Fifteen months after the grand opening of Long Views, arson fire burned part of the structure, and the Long Views had to be rebuilt.
826. The North Woods
The buildings grouped together in this area, called North Woods, were designed by the architectural firm of Smith, Barker, and Hanssen. Their design and materials evoke Julia Morgan’s original style. But the architects added something brand new. Retired State Park Ranger Roxann Jacobus. ROXANN JACOBUS: One of the things they were impressed with was, in the historic core, that you have a lot of pedestrian traffic. So for the first time they hide all of the vehicle traffic that came into the park. They hid it underground. … As these multi-story buildings took up open space, the roof of the garage became a natural landscape. You can’t plant trees there, … So we have this variation of about 13 different plant species that are short rooted or they have running stems on the surface of the ground that complement that open space.
830. Introduction to Forest Ecology
Welcome to Asilomar. This “refuge by the sea” is a gathering place – not only for humans, but also for unique communities of animals and plants. Here, forest, meadow, dunes and coast provide habitats for wildlife. Look up – you might see a red-shouldered hawk flying swiftly through the forest canopy. An acorn woodpecker may be harvesting acorns from a coast live oak or storing its food in the soft bark of a pine. On the forest floor, you might see a black-tailed deer browsing the grasses and shrubs, or squirrels gathering acorns. Asilomar’s rugged coast, wind swept dunes, and rich forest are in a constant process of change. Wind and water continually sculpt the sand and twist the trees. A fungus is attacking the Monterey pine trees. Few pines are naturally resistant. Humans have also caused changes to the ecology. To correct some of the damage done, state park staff has programs set in place. One, all marine resources are protected. No fishing is allowed. No collecting or removal of plants and animals in the tide pools. Two, native plants have been restored in the sand dunes. Park staff monitors the plant populations and diversity. And three, Monterey pines are being grown in the plant nursery to replenish the trees lost to disease. Wildlife is identified and inventoried every few years. You are also a steward of this land. Please stay on marked trails, paved walkways and roads, and use the boardwalk when walking the dunes. Enjoy the plants and animals from a respectful distance.
831. Land Use History
This region has seen tremendous diversity in the people who call it home. For the original inhabitants, the Native American Rumsien people, it was close to paradise. State Park Ranger Chuck Bancroft: CHUCK BANCROFT: If you can imagine this land with nothing else around but pine forest, the Monterey cypress on the headlands, the coastal scrub, the chaparral, the mountains, and the native animals that frequented this area—there were large herds of deer and antelope and elk, three different kinds of bears, flocks of birds that would darken the sky as they flew overhead, the number of plants that could be used for food, for building materials, for tools—it was really a land of plenty. NARRATOR: Spanish explorer Sebastian Vizcaíno entered the bay in 1602, searching for a safe harbor for his Spanish galleons. He claimed the bay Spanish territory and named it Mont de Rey after the Viceroy of New Spain. In 1769, Spain finally began colonizing Alta California, and, in 1770, the Spanish arrived back on the shores of Monterey Bay. Franciscan friar Junipero Serra established the Monterey mission. The native Rumsien people were forced into Spanish rule, and their hunter-gatherer life was destroyed. Mexico obtained independence from Spain in 1821, and for nearly 25 years the Mexican flag flew over Monterey. The Spanish church lands were divided into Mexican ranchos, and large cattle ranches were created. Many of the mission’s Rumsien people now labored on the large cattle ranches. Under Mexican rule, the Spanish trade restrictions were lifted, and coastal ports were opened to foreign trade. Cow hides became known as “California banknotes” and were exchanged for trade goods. The prolonged cattle grazing in the Monterey area drastically altered the ecology of the land. On July 7, 1846, during the Mexican-American War, U.S. naval forces under Commodore John Drake Sloat landed in Monterey and took formal possession of Alta California for the United States. The American flag now flew over Monterey. In 1848, the discovery of gold revolutionized life in California. The world rushed in, and the United States became eager to acquire California’s wealth. On September ninth, 1850, California became the thirty-first state in the Union. Chinese settlers arrived to work in the gold fields and on the railroad lines. They established fishing villages here, often on top of the old Rumsien fishing settlements. Soon, Italian and Portuguese families followed suit, fishing and whaling off the coast. In the late 1800s, developers moved in. The luxurious Hotel Del Monte was built nearby in 1880, and in due time the area developed with the exclusive Pebble Beach Golf community. Today, the spirit of diversity is reflected in the many international visitors who come here to stay.
832. The Meadow
This meadow is a transition zone that separates the dunes and coastal area from the forest. It’s a place both open and sheltered. This is a good place to see a variety of birds and small mammals. The meadow is also a barrier. The trees here protect you – and the nearby buildings on the conference grounds – from wind and salt spray. Their graceful, twisted trunks and windswept branches are good examples of how plants adapt to their environment. Take a look at the trees around you. You can almost see the shape of the wind in their gnarled forms. From the meadow, you can take the boardwalk through the dunes to the coast; or head inland to explore the forest and conference grounds. Whichever direction you choose, please take a few reminders with you. Animals here have grown used to people; but for your safety and theirs, please don’t feed or go near them. Enjoy the native plants, animals and tide pool life from a respectful distance -- collecting is strictly prohibited. With your help, this fragile and beautiful “refuge by the sea” will thrive for generations to come.
833. Monterey Pine Pitch Canker
It’s hard to imagine Asilomar without the majestic Monterey pine. This fast-growing tree can grow up to 100 feet tall. Its few original native locations are near Santa Cruz, in the Monterey area and Cambria. But the poor health of the pines is making it more susceptible to pests and disease and is endangering its survival. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: Since 1992 at Asilomar we’ve been under attack by a disease called pine pitch canker. NARRATOR: The disease is caused by a fungus spread by insects such as bark beetles. It likely came to the Monterey Peninsula in a load of infected firewood, and spread rapidly through the pine forest. Open wounds from pruning can also be a welcome entry point for airborne fungal spores. Nearly all of Asilomar’s pines now show signs of infection. MADISON: As you look through the grounds and you look through the canopies of the trees you’ll notice that we have what’s called flagging. It’s a lot of dead twigs and branches just sort of hanging there, and brown. NARRATOR: You’ll also notice trees with gashes oozing with pitch. This is another sign of the disease. Luckily, there is some hope for the pines. There is no cure for pine pitch canker. Fungicides could kill the fungus, but would also kill the organisms vital to a healthy ecosystem. In 2002, Asilomar ecologists began an innovative tree inoculation program. They based their work on techniques developed by researchers at the University of California at Davis. The program depends on the small percentage of uninfected native pines. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: We find trees that seem to have some resistance to the disease. We collect the cones and we extract the seeds, usually by nuking them in a microwave from two to three minutes. We grow thousands and thousands of seedlings from these semi-resistant Monterey pines. When they’re about a year old we start inoculating them with the fungus that causes the disease. NARRATOR: After a month, park staff measures the lesion at the point of infection on the inoculated seedlings. If the lesion measures less than 15 millimeters, the tree will most likely remain resistant to the fungus. MADISON: There’s also new research out that shows that with repeated exposure to the fungus the tree can develop systemic resistance. It’s a very slow process but very worthwhile, because it maintains the genetic integrity of our stands and I think it’s the best shot we have at dealing with the situation.
834. Forest Ecology
Julia Morgan, the architect who designed Stuck-Up Inn, believed in building around old trees. The gnarled trees you see winding around the building are coast live oaks, one of the two native trees growing at Asilomar. The oak’s seed, the humble acorn, is a rich, nutritious food for squirrels, acorn woodpeckers, and black-tailed deer. The tall trees you see with pine needles are Monterey Pines – Asilomar’s other native tree. The pines are currently under attack by an insect-borne fungus, pine pitch canker. You might see its symptoms on the trees here – brown, dead-looking branch tips, and globs of honey-colored pitch oozing out of the bark. Asilomar ecologists are using surprising techniques to help the trees fight this fungus. Plants growing on the forest floor make up the forest understory. In these grasses, brush and wildflowers you might see songbirds, the tiny chestnut-backed chickadee, or hummingbirds, feeding on the flowers and shrubs.
835. The Bog
MADISON: The bog area, near the stone pillar entrance, isn’t really a bog.. NARRATOR – Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: We call it that because it’s sort of a wetland area, it has more highly developed soil than other areas of the park it has better water holding capacity, so plants really thrive in that area. NARRATOR – A hundred years ago, there were nine small ponds parallel to Asilomar Avenue, and this bog was one of them. Over time, the pond filled with sediment and plants, but high underground water levels keep the soil moist. The bog is a haven for native plants. MADISON: It’s so lush and we have so many native species in there that it’s hard for exotics to even get a foothold. NARRATOR – At the stone pillar entrance, look for giant rye grass. Its flowering spikes grow up to nine feet high, providing shelter for all kinds of animals. You’ll also see shrubs like wax myrtle, blue blossom ceanothus, and monkeyflower. Two of California’s most common native plants thrive here: blackberry and poison oak. People often mix them up, but you don’t have to! Blackberry bushes have stems with thorns, poison oak does not.
836. Forest Understory
MADISON: The bog area, near the stone pillar entrance, isn’t really a bog.. NARRATOR – Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: We call it that because it’s sort of a wetland area, it has more highly developed soil than other areas of the park it has better water holding capacity, so plants really thrive in that area. NARRATOR – A hundred years ago, there were nine small ponds parallel to Asilomar Avenue, and this bog was one of them. Over time, the pond filled with sediment and plants, but high underground water levels keep the soil moist. The bog is a haven for native plants. MADISON: It’s so lush and we have so many native species in there that it’s hard for exotics to even get a foothold. NARRATOR – At the stone pillar entrance, look for giant rye grass. Its flowering spikes grow up to nine feet high, providing shelter for all kinds of animals. You’ll also see shrubs like wax myrtle, blue blossom ceanothus, and monkeyflower. Two of California’s most common native plants thrive here: blackberry and poison oak. People often mix them up, but you don’t have to! Blackberry bushes have stems with thorns, poison oak does not.
837. Coast Live Oak
Close your eyes and listen. On most any day at Asilomar, you can hear the ocean breeze fluttering the hardy leaves of the coast live oak. This is one of native trees that grow here. Many coast live oaks at Asilomar are 50 to 150 years old. Now open your eyes. You can recognize this tree by its gray bark; dark green, oval leaves; and of course, its acorns. The coast live oak’s flowers are pollinated by wind, not insects. As you explore Asilomar, you’ll find live oaks in many different shapes. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: The more exposed they are to the wind the lower they are, the more wind shaped they are, the smaller the leaves. NARRATOR: Growing lower helps the trees withstand constant and often heavy winds. Over time, coast live oaks have also developed protection from insects and deer. The tough, spiny leaves are high in tannin, which gives them an unpleasant taste. You might notice some light-colored dome-like growths on the branches. They’re called galls. Galls on the coast live oaks can be as small as a dime or as large as a cell phone. They’re self-contained environments -- custom-made hotels -- for a tiny species of wasp called “Cynipidae”. Lorrie Madison: MADISON: The adult female will just dig into the oak tissue a little bit and deposit her eggs and then leave the tissue is stimulated to grow just a tiny little outgrowth to protect the eggs, but then when the larvae hatch they start feeding on the plant tissue and the saliva in their mouth has chemicals it starts creating these huge tumor-like outgrowths to protect the gall wasp larvae. It provides food and shelter – it’s a great gig! NARRATOR: The larvae stay in the gall from a couple of months to a year, feeding on the tree and excreting chemicals that make the gall grow. When they’re ready to emerge, they dig their way out of the dome – if you look closely, you might see these tiny holes. Though these galls look like tumors, they neither help, nor harm, the tree. Another interesting twist: gall wasps have “alteration of generations” – one generation will be all female, and can lay eggs without mating. The next generation will be both male and female.
840. Dune History
The Asilomar dunes have changed dramatically since the first Europeans came to the Monterey area. The original dune system spanned 480 acres from Pt. Joe to Pt. Pinos – about the size of 480 football fields. Development has shrunk it to only one-sixteenth of its original size: the precious 25 acres now left at Asilomar. In the 1800s, settlers used the dunes to graze their cattle. The YWCA bought the land for a summer camp in 1912, and the dunes became an active playground for women campers. They built a tennis court, a swimming pool and even a softball diamond on the dunes. Only the swimming pool remains. By the time Asilomar became a state park in 1956, the dunes were severely degraded. Park visitors added to the damage by criss-crossing the dunes, trampling native plants and eroding the sand. State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss: TOM MOSS: Once the vegetation was gone, the sand began to blow. And at that point, ice plant was introduced, a plant that's been used throughout California to try to hold eroding or unstable areas. NARRATOR: Exotic plants such as ice plant engulfed the few native plants left. In 1984, Park staff began a massive dune restoration project. They removed non-native plants, grew and re-planted natives, reshaped the dunes, and built the boardwalk for visitors.
841. Native Plant Nursery
At Asilomar’s native plant nursery you’ll find a solar-heated hothouse and a protected shade house. More than 450,000 plants, representing 45 species, have been grown here since 1984. State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss. MOSS: All the plants that we grow are collected from seeds that grow here at Asilomar in the dunes or out along the shoreline. So at the right time of year we gather up the seeds, and over about a three to four month period, we care for them in the plant nursery. NARRATOR: Once they’re planted in the dunes and coastal bluffs, 90 percent of these plants survive. Lorrie Madison, Retired State Park Environmental Scientist. MADISON: A lot of the common dune species that we grow are beach sagewort, yellow and pink sand [verbena], dune bluegrass, seaside daisy, dune gum plant. Forest species: we’re growing a lot of smaller shrubs that we’ve lost over the years from deer herbivory and...human disturbance. We’re trying to get more manzanitas out there and blue blossom ceanothus, monkey flower, toyon, wax myrtle, and a lot of [native] grasses.
842. Boardwalk Construction and History
The boardwalk leads you away from the forest and meadow of the conference grounds into the windswept sand dunes. This planked trail is one quarter mile long, and was built as part of Asilomar’s dune restoration project. As you meander along the boardwalk through the dunes’ ridges and valleys, or swales, notice the planks. The newer sections, like the portion near the barbeque area, are made of a recycled material combining plastic grocery sacks and sawdust. It is also being used to replace the original wooden planks as they wear out. You may notice that parts of the boardwalk are built on piers. In winter and early spring, these raised sections bridge seasonal ponds, called vernal pools. These aren’t due to runoff. The water table rises during heavy rains to create ponds. Sedges and rushes replace the pools when the water dries up. When dune restoration began in 1984, the dunes were a wasteland of bare sand and ice plant. Now, as you walk along the boardwalk, you can enjoy the dunes, much as they were before European settlement of the Monterey coast.
843. Animal Tracks
Even if you don’t see all of Asilomar’s animals during your visit, you may find evidence of their presence. Try walking the dune boardwalk early in the morning. You’re almost sure to see some tracks in the sand – raccoon, deer, fox, and crow. Because all of Asilomar is animal habitat, you should be able to find prints without leaving designated trails. Several deer trails crisscross the boardwalk. Asilomar’s black-tailed deer leave distinctive, heart-shaped prints. Where there are prints, you’ll likely also find droppings, or scat. Black-tailed deer leave oval-shaped pellets. Tracks that look like tiny human baby hand and footprints were made by raccoon. Raccoons have five toes on both the front and hind feet. Their long, dexterous fingers help them climb, hold objects, and manipulate their food. You can also find bird tracks on the grounds. Crow tracks are up to three inches long, and show three toes facing forward and one backward. In loose sand, there’s often a long drag mark left by the middle toe. Another tracking clue: Birds that forage on the ground alternate their feet, like humans. Birds that mostly perch in trees leave paired prints as they hop.
844. Protected Plants
The first plant to bloom in the dunes each year spends much of its life inside a wire cage. You can see Menzies’ wallflowers right off the boardwalk in open, shifting sands. You’ll recognize it by its clusters of bright yellow four-petaled flowers and, in early spring, the chicken-wire cages. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. MADISON: The deer adore the flowers and the seed pods, so every winter we have to go through and create little cages that we put over a few plants in each population and stake in to protect them, and then once they’ve gone to seed we take off the cages. NARRATOR: This flower is listed as a state and federal endangered species. Asilomar is one of only ten known sites in the world where Menzies’ wallflower still grows. MADISON: These plants are specially adapted to coastal environments. A lot of the endangered plants occur on the coast, and that’s precisely where humans migrate to. We’ve invaded their habitat. That’s the primary cause for endangerment and then second to that would be exotic plants, which humans have usually introduced. NARRATOR: A third cause for endangerment is hybridization. Hybrid plants can develop when insect pollinators, like bees, move from non-native plants to native ones and transfer genetic information between them. A “mutant” lupine has developed this way, a cross between the endangered Tidestrom's and the silver bush lupines. State Park resource staff and volunteers are removing both the non-native and hybrid lupines to give the Tidestrom’s lupine a chance to survive. An outreach effort to neighbors is underway to reduce the threat from adjacent properties.
845. Dune Plants
The rule of the dunes is, “stay low, stay alive.” Only low-growing plants can survive the harsh wind and salt air of the dune’s ridge top. Trees only grow as high as the ridges that protect them. Take a look at the different plant types you encounter along the boardwalk. Near the beach, plants spread out instead of growing up. As you move inland, where there’s more moisture and shelter, plants grow taller and straighter. You’ll find Monterey pines. And as you move into the conference grounds the dune scrub plant community transitions into forest. Many of the plants here are unique to Asilomar. Look for yellow sand verbena, with its rounded leaves; beach aster, a lavender, daisy-like flower; and the two endangered species Tidestrom’s lupine, a tiny blue and white flower; and Menzies’ wallflower, a yellow four-petaled flower. State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss. MOSS : They're tough plants; they can withstand the salt and the blowing sand. They grow and thrive in this dry, nutrient poor soil. And yet they are very fragile and easily damaged or killed from people walking on them.
846. Dune Restoration
While experiencing the richness of the dune environment, you might hear the warbling call of a white-crowned sparrow; or the wind riffling through native grasses. You might see delicate, tiny wildflowers. But over twenty-five years ago, you would have seen only ice plant and heard only barren, blowing sand. State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss. MOSS: The dunes were in a severely degraded condition as a result of years and years of various destructive uses. Grazing, picnicking, and just general public use, trampled away the native vegetation. And once the vegetation was gone, the sand began to blow. NARRATOR: Moss helped design and supervise a massive dune restoration project, begun in 1984. The project’s goal was to bring the dunes back to the condition they were in before Europeans settled here. MOSS: In restoration, we purposely intervene to accelerate the healing process. And so, instead of taking 50 years, we were able to accomplish most of the work within five years. NARRATOR: Park staff first found small, pristine areas of the dunes to learn which plants grew there and how they were distributed. They collected and grew seeds from these remaining native plants, and removed exotics, like ice plant. Bulldozers resculpted the dunes into their natural forms. The dunes were replanted, and finally, the boardwalk was built. Soon after dune restoration, work began, something surprising happened. MOSS: The animal life changed radically with the reintroduction of the native plants into the dunes. You could hear birds singing out there again, whereas before it was just a dead zone, there was no wildlife of any kind. On every yellow bush lupine plant in the dunes there was a white-crowned sparrow singing and its mate was somewhere down in the plant in a nest raising their young. We have discovered burrowing owls; we've discovered various kinds of raptors -- white-tailed…kites, occasionally see peregrine falcons flying over -- and black legless lizards. … And those were very rare prior to the dunes being restored, because they depend on native insects, which eat native plants. So with the return of the native plants, so came back the black legless lizards. There's a small group of deer now that live permanently out in the sand dunes.
847. Dune Formations
MOSS: There are several basic ingredients that are needed to form a sand dune. You need a source of sand -- the offshore rocks that are breaking down into sand. You also need some kind of a transport mechanism -- like the ocean currents, that could bring sand to a beach. And you need a receptive shoreline where the sand will be deposited and then you need plants. So dunes build up where the plants trap the sand blown in off the beach. NARRATOR: State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss. MOSS: The dunes, at Asilomar, are aligned with the prevailing winds. It’s a ridge-type form, with inter-dune swells. The entire conference grounds is actually built on an old dunes system. It’s not just the area out towards the west between the conference grounds and the ocean where the dunes are. You can see the same pattern through the conference grounds with the ridges of the dunes becoming higher as you move inland. NARRATOR: To keep a balance between the sand that’s eroded by wind and the sand that’s deposited by the ocean, park staff plant and maintain the coastal bluffs and dunes.
850. Pebble Beach
Looking south from the Asilomar boardwalk you can see one of the developments of the famous Pebble Beach community. It’s Spanish Bay Resort and Golf Course, built in the 1980s. When Asilomar was owned by the YWCA, towering sand dunes with native plants stretched all the way to [the] rocky outcropping on the horizon, known as Pt. Joe. The property was owned by the Pacific Improvement Company, later known as the Del Monte Properties, and today as the Pebble Beach Company. In 1943, the Owens-Illinois sand-processing plant built a mine in the dunes to excavate the silica and wash the sand clean of salt to sell for cement. By 1965, the dunes were nearly gone, and the mining plant closed. The Asilomar concessionaire attempted to buy the abandoned 192 acres of dunes for the state beach. But unfortunately the Del Monte Properties wanted the property for a resort and golf course. However, they agreed to preserve the fore dunes and beach lands adjacent to Asilomar State Beach in their natural state. As the Pebble Beach community was expanding near Asilomar, so too was the community of Pacific Grove.
851. Shipwrecks
Imagine being captain of a ship trying to navigate this rocky coast, late at night, in dense fog. More than 100 unlucky vessels have been lost near here to the treacherous rocks and heavy surf. Two of these shipwrecks occurred on the shores of Asilomar. ACTOR’S VOICE – RADIO REPORTER: April 26, 1909. Around 3:30 this morning, the oil barge Roderick Dhu ran aground on the rocks just south of Monterey. The vessel was being towed by the tug “Relief” when the tug’s captain lost his way in dense fog and turned ashore, well south of his destination. NARRATOR: Luckily, the barge wasn’t carrying oil when it ran aground on the rocks. No crew was injured, but the barge was a total loss. Twenty-four years later, a second boat wrecked on Asilomar’s coast. In the early hours of September 25, 1933, the 75-foot Coast Guard patrol cutter CG256 collided with the rocky shoreline in dense fog. The captain and crew tried desperately to free the vessel from the rocks. But the hull had been gashed, and the crew was forced to abandon ship. All six crew members made it to shore safely, but the cutter had to be left to rust on the rocks. Remains of many doomed ships still lurk below the treacherous rocks off Asilomar’s coast.
852. Middens
All along Asilomar’s coastal trail are Middens, archeological sites that tell us about the indigenous peoples who once lived here. Up until the 1600s, the Rumsien people of the Monterey Peninsula shared this land only with the abundant wildlife. They lived in inland villages. The men hunted birds, seals, sea lions, and fish along the shore. The women collected shellfish from the tide pools. BANCROFT : And they would process it in their temporary village sites. And they would clean the shells out … drying it in the sun. Now what’s interesting is, they left things behind. And we call it a kitchen midden. A midden site is nothing but darkened soil with remnants of the things that they hunted and collected … the invertebrates, the abalone … broken down into pieces over years and years. NARRATOR: The middens of the Monterey Bay Area have given archaeologists valuable clues to Asilomar’s indigenous culture. Please remember, archaeological sites are protected. Disturbing or removing artifacts is prohibited.
853. Beach Sand Cycles
MOSS: One of the things that make Asilomar's dunes unique is the sand. NARRATOR: State Park Senior Environmental Scientist Tom Moss. MOSS: The sand is derived entirely from the breakdown of the offshore rocks and the decomposition of the shoreline. The offshore rocks are granitic and the material that forms from that is- very clean, it's almost pure quartz and feldspar. It's very, very clean sand. NARRATOR: When you’re on the beach, you might notice a squeaking sound when you rub your feet across the white sand. This is because the sand is made from pure rock, without clay or other organic material. As Tom Moss says, this sand is, MOSS: …squeaky clean… NARRATOR: You may not see it, but this beach sand is hiding an army. Marine organisms, like worms, crabs and tiny invertebrates populate the first six to eight inches below the sand’s surface. Some of these organisms are so small; they can live between the grains of sand! The waves provide a free lunch. When seawater washes over the sand, it percolates down, carrying plankton and dissolved oxygen to nourish the creatures below. The beach changes shape throughout the year. Waves and wind shape the beach with the seasons. Huge winter waves pull beach sand into the ocean to form offshore sandbars. You may see waves breaking far from the shoreline. Spring brings smaller waves that deposit sand back on shore. Late spring winds blow the sand inland to the first series of dune ridges, or “foredunes”. There, it’s caught by plants, and the dunes grow taller. Park staff re-vegetate the foredunes as needed to keep the balance between erosion and build up of sand.
854. Rocky Shore and Tide Pools
Just inches from the sandy beach, the rocky shoreline is bursting with life. The narrow, rocky area that is exposed during periods of low tide is the intertidal zone. Take a look – it’s covered with tide pools. The plants and animals that survive here are submerged during high tide, exposed to sun and wind during low tide, and constantly battered by waves. Fish try to eat these species when underwater, and birds prey on them when exposed. On the rocky shoreline, only the strong survive. But these creatures are specially adapted to life on the rocks. California mussels grow in large mounds, anchored against the surf by tough strands. The aggregating anemone covers its soft body with bits of shells and pebbles. This provides camouflage and sun protection during low tide. When underwater, it can use its crown of stinging tentacles to stun, and then engulf, its prey. Look for brown kelp beds floating just offshore. This algae grows up to 100 feet tall in underwater “forests”. Root-like structures called “holdfasts” grip the rocks on the ocean floor. Air-filled bulbs keep the long, leaf-like blades floating near the surface so they can collect energy from the sun. Kelp contains algin, used to thicken products from ice cream to hand lotion. Enjoy exploring the tide pools, but remember: The intertidal area is a protected state marine reserve. It’s against the law to fish or to disturb or remove any rocks, marine plants or tide pool animals.
855. Asilomar State Marine Reserve
"The Asilomar State Marine Reserve resides inside one of our nation’s largest National Marine Sanctuaries. The Monterey Bay National Marine sanctuary extends North of San Francisco bay and South to Cambria. Over 6,000 square miles of federally protected marine sanctuary promotes environmental protection, stewardship and ocean research. Inside this large sanctuary lies the state regulated California Network of Marine Protected Areas or ‘MPAs’. MPAs are geographically designated ocean areas that are set aside primarily to protect or conserve marine life and its associated habitat. MPAs work by having varying levels of protection, specifically regulating human “take”. There are four types of MPAs, and here in Monterey County we have two. The “blue” zones, or ‘State Marine Conservation Areas’ where recreational and/or commercial take of expressly specified species is allowed; and the “red” zones or ‘State Marine Reserves’ where there is no take allowed at all. This includes living and non-living things, such as rocks, shells, dead plants, animals and algae- all must be left where they are. MPAs are special because they protect whole ecosystems by habitat, providing general protection not only for species that are threatened or endangered, but for their food sources, shelter and other vital necessities as well. Asilomar State Marine Reserve is a “red” zone where no take is allowed. It extends from Point Joe (Pebble Beach) on the Southern border all the way to Point Pinos (Pacific Grove) as the Northern border, and to just about one mile offshore. This protection allows the ecosystems to thrive here at Asilomar State Beach, from the sandy shore where birds feed and nest, to the rocky intertidal where crabs, anemones and sea stars hunt and thrive.”
856. Ocean Life
Look out into the water. The Pacific Ocean is teeming with life. Tough and adaptive creatures live in the tide pools; marine mammals swim in the waters just offshore. If you’re lucky, you might see a sea lion, seal, or otter feeding, or resting on the offshore rocks. Further out, you could catch a glimpse of a migrating whale. The water conceals the most extensive animal habitat – the sandy sea floor. Burrowing clams, worms, crustaceans, and stingrays live here, just beyond the intertidal zone. As you move further from shore, there are sand dollars feeding on plankton and other debris. Beyond that is habitat for commercial and sport fish, such as salmon, anchovy, herring, sole, and sharks. Just two miles from where you are standing, the ocean floor plunges 10,000 feet down. This trench, the Monterey Canyon, is wider and deeper than the Grand Canyon. During the summer months, the prevailing currents bring cold, nutrient-rich water from deep down. This feeds the tiny phytoplankton plants, the beginning of the marine food chain. Sea birds, whales and dolphins feed along the Canyon’s edges. In the dark waters beneath the surface, jellies, sea stars, giant squid, sponges, and soft coral are concealed.
860. Raptors
That marvelous, soaring creature you’ve just spotted high above the treetops is probably a raptor—a bird of prey. It’s no doubt been eyeing you, too. There are all kinds of raptors, from eagles, osprey, hawks and owls to kites, vultures, and even the nearly extinct condor. They all have a few things in common: They eat meat, so they have sharp talons to help catch their prey and strong, hooked beaks to tear it apart. Their long, broad wings let them catch rising air currents and soar through the air, which saves them energy while they stay aloft to hunt. Their favorite foods are mice and rabbits, fish and snakes, and even other birds. It’s a guilty thrill to see a raptor flying off with a fish or mouse in its talons. Most catch and kill their prey, but some, like vultures, eat the leftovers. Raptors’ eyes are big to help them spot their prey. But here’s something many people don’t know: the eyes are so big that raptors can’t move them. They have to turn their entire heads to see something—which is how owls got the reputation of being able to swivel their heads entirely around. But they can’t.
861. Acorn Woodpeckers
If you’ve spent any time at Asilomar, you’ve probably already heard this sound. (sound of woodpecker call) Or this one. (sound of woodpecker call) That’s an Acorn Woodpecker hammering away, drilling small holes to store acorns, or large ones in which to nest and raise its young. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison: LORRIE MADISON: ..it can take as long as three months for an acorn woodpecker to dig out a really great hole the female selects the site and the male begins digging it out and then the female finishes it off. A lot of time and investment in creating a nesting cavity. Just like us. [laughs] NARRATOR: These red-capped birds find their acorns in the coast live oak trees, but generally store them in holes drilled in the softer bark of the Monterey pines. Look for these “granary trees” – some have as many as 3,000 holes in them! As you walk around the grounds, you might even see granary holes in a lamppost. LORRIE MADISON: The adults spend about a quarter of their time taking care of the granary tree, filling it up …protecting it from would-be theft… NARRATOR: As older acorns lose water and shrink, the woodpecker will move them to smaller holes, freeing up larger holes for new acorns. Like an elephant, an acorn woodpecker never forgets -- where it’s stored an acorn.
862. Deer
Deer are so at home here at Asilomar that they barely move out of your way as you pass them. So please, when driving, keep your speed way down, as they will often be casually crossing the road. And please don’t approach or startle them. Although they appear tame, they are wild and can cause injury. Deer are the most common and widespread big game animals in California. The state’s native deer are called mule deer, because of their long ears. Those you see at Asilomar are black-tailed deer, a sub-species of the mule deer. Deer have rather poor eyesight, but their keen sense of hearing alerts them to danger. Bucks, or male deer, shed their antlers every year in winter. In the spring, they grow quickly back, covered with a velvety skin that the buck rubs off on trees. Contrary to popular belief, the number of points on a buck’s antlers doesn’t indicate his age, but the quality and abundance of his food. If you’re here in May, keep your eye out for little spotted fawns—that’s when they’re born. Mother deer may leave their small fawns unattended for up to fourteen hours at a time. As with all young animals, they are best left to themselves in their habitat. In most cases, the parents are closer than you may think.
863. Monarch Butterflies
Each fall season, thousands of monarch butterflies from western Canada start their long migration towards the southwest. A migrating population of monarchs arrives in November in Pacific Grove and stays through February before returning back north. But Pacific Grove is not the only site in California. There are more than 300 overwintering sites in the state. Butterflies can be seen fluttering about on sunny days throughout the Asilomar grounds and dunes. But as the day grow colder, they will fly inland to the Monarch Grove Sanctuary and cluster in Monterey pines and eucalyptus trees. The sanctuary is located in Pacific Grove just off Lighthouse Avenue on Ridge Road. The microclimate in the closed canopy of trees provides a buffer from the winds, and the temperatures can remain moderate. In February, the monarch butterflies will mate. The males will die and the females will begin the migration north. Along the migration route the female will find milkweed plants and lay her eggs on the underside of the leaves, imprinting her offspring with the genetically coded message of the migration route. Once the eggs are laid, the female will die. The eggs will develop and, after emerging from a chrysalis, the new generation of butterflies will continue the migration north. Two more generations of monarch butterflies will develop before reaching western Canada. The fourth and longest-lived generation will fly the entire southward migration back to Pacific Grove.
864. Brown Pelicans
You might see these big-billed birds go crashing down into the waves. They look like airplanes taking a nosedive. But really, these brown pelicans are plunging into the water to get a meal. They take up residence on the beaches here in late spring, and they almost always stay through November. Their journey starts in Mexico and Southern California. So by the time they get here, they’re ready to relax. You can recognize brown pelicans by their elegant flying patterns. They often travel in single-file lines low over the water. If you’re here when they are, you can’t miss em’! These birds are four feet long and have a wingspan of seven feet. There was concern that one day these big birds might simply disappear. Brown pelicans are extremely sensitive to toxins and chemical pollutants. They neared extinction in the late 70’s because of the pesticide DDT. Luckily, they’re doing better now. They’ve even begun exhibiting courting behavior, signaling that they might begin nesting south of Carmel. That’s something no one in this area has seen for over thirty years.
865. Squirrels
You’ve seen a squirrel! But what kind is it? Asilomar has three species living within the park’s boundary─western gray squirrels, red fox squirrels and California Beechyi (pronounced bee chee) ground squirrels. Native Western gray squirrels were once abundant at Asilomar, inhabiting all areas of the pine-oak forest. But the non-native red fox squirrel has taken over its territory, and Western gray squirrels are rarely seen today. Gray squirrels are strictly forest dwellers. They will spend time foraging on the ground, but prefer to travel distances from tree branch to tree branch. They feed mainly on pine seeds and acorns, but will also consume berries and fungus. Retired State Park Environmental Scientist Lorrie Madison. LORRIE MADISON: They don’t cache them in trees. They bury them in the soil or the soil litter, and sometimes they’ll scavenge and steal from acorn woodpeckers. …[G]ray squirrels and scrub jays generally can’t remember where they’ve stored all of their acorns, so they’re a great disburser. They’ll spread … acorns all over the place NARRATOR: … and that helps grow new oak trees. Red fox squirrels are commonly seen at Asilomar. It was introduced to California, and its population has grown until it can now be found in most city and county parks throughout the state. Red fox squirrels have successfully competed for habitat at Asilomar, making the gray squirrels nearly non-existent here. The California Beechyi ground squirrel has light brown and dusky fur giving it a mottled look. A band of slightly darker fur, flecked with light gray, runs down its back. This squirrel lives in burrows that it digs into hillsides or earth mounds. Around here, you’ll almost always see them along the coastal bluffs.
866. Scrub Jays
Many Californians think of the raucous blue birds that we see so often as blue jays. But blue jays are actually eastern birds, and don’t occur west of the Rocky Mountains. The commonly seen jay at Asilomar is the scrub jay. Its head, wings, and tail feathers are bright blue, with a white underside. Above its eye is a streak of white feathers. It is frequently noisy and conspicuous when foraging, but quiet and secretive near its nest. Another jay seen at Asilomar is the stellar jay. It is easily identified by the black crest of feathers atop its head, its black, sooty front, and its bluish-gray rear.
867. Crows
Most bird groups are called flocks. But groups of these creatures are poetically referred to as a murder of crows. That’s probably because of their coal-black color, their hunched stance, and their harsh call—as if they were here to announce something unwelcome. The crow is about the best-known bird in California, or the United States, for that matter. It’s adapted to life in farmlands and urban areas. It can descend in huge flocks onto a field, or hop around individually in trees or on the ground. If you’ve ever wondered how to tell a crow from a raven, a related large black bird also found in Monterey County, here are a few tips: The typical crow is about seventeen inches long. The raven is much bigger, about twenty-four inches long. Crows’ wings are blunt and splayed at the tip, while raven’s wings are pointed. A crow has a fan-shaped tail while a raven has a long, wedge-shaped tail. Both birds have long, heavy bills, but the crow’s is noticeably smaller than the raven’s. And the crow’s call is a caw— sfx: caw caw caw NARRATOR: —while the raven’s is a croak. sfx: croak, croak, croak
868. Shorebirds
There are more shorebirds here on Asilomar’s beaches than we can tell you about on this tour. If you don’t already have one, you might want to grab yourself a bird book for your next visit. Here are just a few birds you may be able to spot: Those bands of little birds that run along playing tag with the sea foam are sandpipers or sanderlings. They feed at the water’s edge, where they probe into the wet sand for food. Oyster catchers are easy to spot around the coastal rocks, with their bright orange beaks. Offshore you can often see dark colored cormorants swimming or flying. You can identify them by their long necks, which they extend straight out in front as they fly along in pairs or small flocks. Of course, among the most visible birds on California’s coastline are the many species of gull. Watch for the common Heerman’s, Western, or California gulls. Each species may have distinct differences depending on their age or the time of year. Can you see any differences?
869. Otters
If you’re lucky to spot an otter out in the waves, it’ll probably be eating, cracking open abalone, clams, snails, and mussels. But otters have to work to get these things to open. So they’ll usually pick up a rock on the sea floor and lying on their backs they smash the two together until the shellfish breaks open. Otters are the smallest sea mammals, weighing in at about 60 to 85 pounds. Now imagine this: Adult otters eat 15 per cent of their weight every day. When they aren’t eating, otters are either cleaning their thick fur coats or resting. They have to keep their coat clean and fluffy to stay warm because they have no body fat. When they sleep, otters will wrap themselves in kelp so they don’t drift out to sea. At one time, 20,000 otters lived in the waters here. But because they were hunted so aggressively for their luxurious fur, otters almost disappeared completely. And the threats to the otter population don’t end there! Large petroleum oil spills can instantaneously ruin their ocean habitat and destroy their fur coats, making it impossible for them to survive. Thankfully, otters are making a comeback and are now a protected species all along the central California coast.
870. Sea Lions
The male sea lion has a distinctively loud vocalization. Sea lions can growl, bark and make clicking noises. They just love to bask in the sun, so you’ll probably see them out on the beach or on offshore rocks. Sea lions have long whiskered noses like a dog. Males can weigh up to 700 pounds, while females weigh in somewhere around 250. They can go under water for to up to twenty minutes, and swim at about ten to twelve miles an hour. But if they are after something special they can shoot through the waves much faster. In June sea lion pups are born. Moms use smell and vocalizations to pick out their own pups from others on the beach. Oh, and by the way, if you find a marine mammal on the beach please leave it there and notify a park ranger. It may be sick or injured, but most likely it’s just resting!
871. Elephant Seals
The beaches of Asilomar occasionally provide a nice resting place for wayward elephant seals during the spring and summer. Most elephant seals that stop here are young. Sometimes elephant seals rest in the same spot for an extended period of time without feeding. As a matter of fact, during the breeding season elephant seals may remain on the beach for two or three months without eating or drinking anything! Males can weigh up to five thousand pounds; they rely on their incredible stores of fat to survive. There are two active winter breeding locations nearby, one to the north near Santa Cruz at Ano Nuevo State Reserve; and one to the south at San Simeon. In December, the males arrive at these locations and strike up violent battles to determine who will dominate the breeding ground. The females start to arrive by the end of December, give birth, and are immediately ready to mate. The males continue fighting to maintain mating rights through February. With several hundred elephant seals of all ages on the beach at once it can be quite a scene. By early spring all of the elephant seals are out in the open ocean feeding and building back their fat reserves. In the spring and summer the seals make their return to shore to molt. That is when we see them here at Asilomar – always alone and usually for a stay of less than a day. You’re lucky to see elephant seals here today because at one time the species dwindled to less than one hundred. People hunted them voraciously for their blubber. Thankfully, the U.S. followed Mexico’s lead in protecting the elephant seal starting in the early twentieth century. Today, over 150,000 inhabit the Pacific Coast waters!
872. Whales
Catching sight of a whale is one of the most magical events for human beings. You might see them breaching—that is, breaking up through the ocean’s surface and crashing down again. Or you may see their flukes, or tails, lifting up and disappearing again as they dive. Or they might blast a spout of water out of their blow holes—a good way of spotting them in the distance. If you’re here in August, the whale you may see could be a humpback or a blue. They come to the waters of Monterey Bay to feed on small fish and krill, ingesting up to one ton of food in a single day. As fall approaches, they begin moving south, to their breeding grounds in the tropical waters of Hawaii and Mexico. If you’re here in late fall or early spring, there is a good chance you’ll see a Pacific gray whale. They pass by our shores in November on their twelve thousand mile roundtrip from the Chukchi Sea near Alaska to Baja California and back—one of the longest annual migrations of any mammal. They come into Monterey Bay to feed in both directions of their journey. The Pacific gray whale was nearly hunted to extinction in the mid-1800s. Today, thousands of these gentle giants pass through Monterey Bay every year.
880. ARAMARK
The concessionaire ARAMARK has contracted with California State Parks to operate the hospitality business at the park. Their staff runs the registration desk, dining hall, housekeeping, guest services, maintenance, and group sales. Together as partners, state parks and the concessionaire carry out the business of the conference grounds and state beach.
881. Julia Morgan Biography
Julia Morgan was a native Californian, born in San Francisco in 1872. At the age of twenty-four she moved to Paris with the dream of becoming an architect. Architect and Julia Morgan specialist Russell Quacchia. RUSSELL QUACCHIA: She was the first woman to be accepted into the Ecole des Beaux Arts, which was 250 years old at the time she entered. She was the first woman to graduate. NARRATOR: To become a woman architect in 1900 was no easy task! RUSSELL QUACCHIA: Times in which she lived and practiced architecture were not hospitable to her at all. I think she spent her life endeavoring to overcome that peculiar relationship with the times. NARRATOR: Morgan moved back to San Francisco in 1902 and worked for Galen Howard on the new building designs for the UC Berkeley campus. She set up her own architecture firm in 1904 after receiving her state license. Over the years, she practiced an eclectic architectural style. Her desire to please each individual client made all her projects unique. Her most well known design is the Hearst Castle in San Simeon. It looks nothing like the buildings here. Asilomar was perhaps the only project in Julia Morgan’s 49-year career where she had complete artistic freedom. In 1987, eleven of her original sixteen buildings at Asilomar were designated a National Historic Landmark.
882. Women at Asilomar
It was philanthropist Phoebe Apperson Hearst who gave added financial support and championed the YWCA’s decision to build a summer camp conference grounds here in the West. She introduced the YWCA directors to the Pacific Improvement Company who eventually donated 30 acres of land for the camp. Hearst generously offered furnishings for Asilomar’s first building, dining tent and tent houses. NARRATOR: Most of the buildings on the historic core tour were named after prominent women who helped to create the unique atmosphere found here at Asilomar. As you visit each building you can learn more about them
883. Arts and Crafts Movement
The natural wood grain curving and crossing throughout Morgan’s buildings captures the essence of the Arts and Crafts style. Architect and Julia Morgan specialist Russell Quacchia: RUSSELL QUACCHIA: Her use of redwood left unpainted showing the grain of all of the material and how the life of wood grows is a part of the sensibilities of the arts and crafts movement. NARRATOR: Arts and Crafts originated in late 19th century England as a reaction against industrialization. It took on a distinctly Japanese influence as it moved west to California. This Japanese style surfaces most clearly in Julia Morgan’s use of glass. Her windows are often cut into many small sections, mimicking the look of a Japanese screen. In many parts of California, the Arts and Crafts movement blossomed into a lifestyle. Folks began sleeping outside, raising their own fruits and vegetables, and even restricting themselves to ice cold showers.
884. YWCA General History
The Young Women’s Christian Association is the oldest and largest multicultural women’s organization in the world. It was founded in England in 1855, and spread to the United States in 1858. The YWCA has always provided educational and vocational training to young women. The idea to open such a training center in the west was born during the YWCA’s first western conference in 1897. In 1913, Asilomar opened its doors to the first group of YWCA women. The YWCA boasts some remarkable achievements. Way back in 1860, it opened the first boarding house for women workers in New York City. In 1870, it became the first organization to teach women to type—formerly a man’s domain—and opened the first employment bureau. In 1894, the YWCA went international, and also started bilingual education programs to help immigrant women. The YWCA has always stood for fair labor practices, civil rights, and women’s rights. In the 1890s, it opened branches for African American and Native American women. During World War Two, it aided Japanese American women imprisoned in relocation camps. In 1960, the cafeteria at the Atlanta, Georgia, YWCA became the first desegregated public dining facility in America. And in 1965, the group’s National Board created the Office of Racial Justice to lead its civil rights efforts.
885. How Asilomar got its name
Retired State Park Superintendent Dennis Hanson explains how Asilomar got its name. DENNIS HANSON: When the YWCA purchased the property, they were trying to come up with a name for this camp. And usually when you name a camp you try to come up with something that's representative of maybe the area or the purpose or something. Well, in those days, and still now, during certain times of the year you have crows all over the place. And so they were thinking about "Crow Camp." The women didn't really like "Crow Camp." It didn't quite sound right for them. So there was a, they thought that probably a good way to do it is just put it out to the public; put it out through their organization and say, "We're trying to name this camp, this -- this summer retreat. And we'll take all names. And, uh, we'll have a contest." And so they did. And this one lady, a Stanford student, submitted the name "Asilomar," "Asilomar" is a derivative of Spanish and it means "asylum by the sea." They didn't like "asylum.” It sounded kind of maybe negative. So "asylum" also could be "refuge." And so "refuge by the sea -- Asilomar." A refuge by the sea. NARRATOR: The refuge by the sea theme continues to this day. DENNIS HANSON: I think I like the idea of Asilomar and that it provides a place for people to come, for families to get together, a place where, regardless of whether your interests are really natural or cultural or are just that you just want to get together with somebody else, but it provides an atmosphere, a place to relax. A place that people can always come to, regardless of what their interests are. The idea is to try to come in and enjoy it as it is and maybe take that with you when you leave: a piece of it, a part of it.
886. Warnecke Biography
John Carl Warnecke was born in 1919 and raised in the Bay Area. He earned his degree from Stanford University in 1941, then went onto complete an architecture program at Harvard. Architect Bernard Maybeck and the California Arts and Crafts movement influenced Warnecke’s designs, just like they did Julia Morgan’s. So he also favored buildings that emphasized functionality and a strong relationship with nature. This made him the perfect candidate for designing the new buildings at Asilomar. You might have noticed another influence in Warnecke’s architecture: an island style. Surf and Sand are like Hawaiian low-slung bungalows or pavilions. Warnecke designed the capitol building in Honolulu, Hawaii, and the American embassy in Thailand. Warnecke is perhaps most well known for his work in Washington D.C. In 1963, President John F. Kennedy appointed him to the Federal Fine Arts Commission. Warnecke developed a close friendship with Jacqueline Kennedy during this time. So after President Kennedy’s assassination, Jacqueline turned to Warnecke to design her husband’s gravesite. It was known among American architects as one of the most difficult commissions of their time.
887. From YWCA to State Park
During the Great Depression of the 1930s, the YWCA was forced to cut back on its expenses. They stopped funding their camps and conference grounds throughout the United States and put Asilomar up for sale in 1933. But they found no buyers. For several years, the YWCA leased the property as a hotel. Then, in 1943, they opened the empty rooms to the families of military stationed at nearby Fort Ord. In 1949, the California State Parks purchased the strip of coastline opposite Asilomar for a state beach. They wanted Asilomar’s dunes, too, but the YWCA insisted they buy the whole property and keep it intact. Senator Fred Farr and Assemblyman Alan Pattee wrote legislation to make Asilomar a state park—with one provision: no public funds could be used to support it. Dennis Hanson, retired State Park Superintendent: DENNIS HANSON: Asilomar is unique in one primary way and that is that the funding source for the entire operation, including state park staff and concession staff and all maintenance requirements and development requirements, are all taken out of the funds which the operation itself generates here on site. NARRATOR: In other words, not a single tax dollar goes to support this state park. It’s entirely self-sustaining.
888. Pacific Grove
In the summer of 1873, property owner David Jacks let a group of Methodists build small shacks on his property to hold a Christian Seaside Retreat in a grove of pines. The participants returned to their homes and churches boasting of the mild summer temperature and peaceful setting. Within two years, David Jacks and Methodist leaders were favorably negotiating the purchase of the grove site. They named their property the Pacific Grove Retreat. By the 1880s, streets were lined with shops and hotels. By an act of Legislature passed July 16, 1889, the town of Pacific Grove was duly incorporated as a city. Pacific Grove’s population began to grow rapidly. To maintain the community temperance, the leaders established blue laws that outlawed alcohol, gambling, and Sunday desecration. They even imposed a curfew for women. The laws extended one mile from the center of Pacific Grove, so it affected the YW camp at Asilomar. For the first couple of years, from 1913 to 1915, the YWCA enforced the 10:00 o’clock women’s curfew. Girls were asked to be in their tent houses in case a Methodist “father” might pass by. By the late 1910s the blue laws in Pacific Grove were abolished, except for a portion of the alcohol law which still persists today: No alcohol is allowed in public areas without a city permit.
899. QR Code Intro
Welcome, this short introduction will give you information about the use of QR, or Quick Reference, codes for this cellphone tour. QR codes are the small square, black and white images located on the signposts of the cellphone tour stops. These images function very similar to a simple barcode on consumer products but have the capability to encode complex data. This cellphone tour has expanded content available quickly and easily through these QR codes. To access a QR code you first need a smart phone or other internet capable mobile device. Your device must have a camera and app, or application, capable of reading the QR codes. These apps are available free of charge on most mobile devices through the application store or market, simply search for “QR code reader”. After downloading the application and installing it on your mobile device, you are now able to launch and follow the on screen instructions for reading the QR codes using that application. Next simply point your camera at the QR code and allow the application to scan it. A prompt will appear asking if you would like to navigate to the website linked, we encourage you to say yes to view the cellphone tour website with enhanced content. From this website you may view photographs and slideshows of the various stops along the cellphone tour as well as a text format of the audio tour. Thank you for using California State Parks cellphone tour.
