Mycenae - Introduction
Welcome to the most important – and lavish – palatial center of the Late Bronze Age in Greece, Homer’s “gold – rich Mycenae”. According to mythology, the founder of Ancient Mycenae was Perseus, son of Zeus and Danae. The myth of the Cyclops and the story of Heinrich Schliemann’s discovery of the so-called “Mask of Agamemnon” are fascinating, as is a tour of the archaeological site.My name is Maria. I have been a tour guide for over 10 years and enjoy indulging visitors in the fascinating world of Greek history. Let’s waltz together in the archaeological site of Mycenae, the museum, and the Treasure of Atreus. You will listen to fascinating stories and gain great insights into the most iconic landmark of the Peloponnese. Let’s begin!
Stop 1 - The Cyclopean Walls
Once you arrive at the archaeological site of Mycenae, you should head towards the entrance. As soon as you have passed the turnstiles scanning your ticket, you will walk straight ahead until you see, on your left hand, the Cyclopean walls rising.Once upon a time, there was a demi-god named Perseus, son of Zeus and Danae. He had earned quite a reputation as a hero, for he had managed to kill the famous Medusa and save Princess Andromeda from a ferocious sea serpent. They were married and upon their arrival to Greece, Perseus participated in a sports contest, during which he threw the discus with such force that he killed his grandfather. Full of regret, he exchanged his kingdom, Argos, with the lands of his cousin Megapenthes. When he arrived here, his scabbard fell on the ground, which was seen as a sign that a city should be founded, a city called Mycenae.The kingdom of Mycenae reached its pinnacle of wealth and power between 1350 and 1200 B.C., attributing its name to an entire civilization. Most of the buildings visible today date back to that period.The walls in front of your eyes look huge, don’t they? Perseus employed Cyclops to erect the citadel’s walls because the Greeks believed that only the one-eyed Cyclops had the strength and skills to carry such gigantic boulders. The fortification system of Mycenae consists of huge, unworked limestone boulders that were fitted together without mortar or clay. It took at least four men to handle each boulder with the help of the earth ramps and wooden rollers.The strength of the Mycenae citadel depended on a few prerequisites. The architects looked for a flat-topped hill that was rocky but not too high, with sufficient space available for a palace on the summit, and a secure supply of water. Since stone was the main building material, the presence of accessible quarries was also desirable but, in any case, the architects made use of the natural contours of the site to create a formidable impediment for attackers.As you marvel at the formidable landscape and walls, why not take a picture, and share it with us on our Instagram account @key_tours?
Stop 2 - The Lion Gate
Going straight ahead, you will meet the Lion Gate; two lions are welcoming you as you enter the citadel. The king of all animals is here to remind you who guards and protects the city!The opposing felines above the main getaway were built in 1250 BC. They are carved on a thin slab of limestone set in the triangle above the lintel. The heads of the lions were probably made from steatite and, valuable as they were, they were removed in the late Roman period in order to be part of a collection. The column between them supports the roof of a building that may depict the palace of Mycenae with the discs apparently representing the end of rafters. What we see here, is a typical feature of Mycenean architecture. Have a look at the triangular shape of the remarkably constructed entranceway. It is composed of four massive blocks of conglomerate stone, almost 20 tons each, while the grooves on the threshold allowed water to drain from the interior and pivot holes indicating that a double-leafed gate was once present.Access to the citadel of Mycenae was given from this gently sloping side, to ensure easy transport for pedestrians and vehicles alike. In case of attack, this was the citadel’s tendon of Achilles. For this reason, the defenders had taken protective measures. You can see the imposing rectangular bastion to entrance’s, right? Now, let’s imagine you wish to attack the city. You have approached the gate with a large shield covering your left side. Yet, your right side is vulnerable. With the erection of the bastion on the right, the defenders are safe to assume that your chances of taking the city by assault are slim. This type of defensive protection was adopted by other Mycenean cities and later became a standard feature in the classical period, most famously on the Acropolis of Athens.
Stop 3 - The Granary
As you pass the Lion Gate, you will see the Granary on your right.Are you ready to find out what our ancient friends had for lunch?Partly excavated by Schlieman and Alan Wace, whose name is closely associated with the archaeological site, the Granary owes its appellation to the carbonized seeds of corn, vetch and barely stored in jars that were discovered in the basement. The front of the building, which faces the grave circle, accommodates the curve of the enclosure, so the “granary” was built later. It is believed that the Granary, of which the ground floor and the first floor were preserved, was constructed not only to store food but also to be used as a guardhouse for the person on duty at the Lion Gate.All that we know about the eating habits of the Mycenaeans people comes from Linear B documents that provide information about the delivery and allocation of foods and animals, but no recipe to try at home. The basis of the Mycenean diet was formed by cereals, mostly barley, coarsely ground and served as soup or porridge, or milled to produce flour for flatbreads. The Myceneans were not vegetarians. Meat consumption was not practiced daily but was probably more common during feasts organized for the upper class. Cattle, deer, lamb and goat meat were preferred. In general, all the edible parts of the animal were consumed, and the meat was eaten fresh, dried, or smoked. As always, the higher one’s social rank, the better the quality of food they got to eat.
Stop 4 - Interior Grave Circle A
Moving on, take the stairs located just behind the Granary and stand at the Interior Grave Circle A.My #GraveisBiggerThanYours would have been a popular hashtag among Myceneans had Instagram been a thing back in their day.The enclosure of the Interior Grave Circle A initially lay beyond the boundaries of the citadel but in the middle of the 13th century BC, the walls of Mycenae were extended to encompass the graves within the fortification. The area was never built over and contained 19 bodies, those of nine men, eight women, and two children, buried with their heads to the east and feet to the west. Most of them were accompanied by rich grave goods, including the famous gold masks. Limestones stelae marked the grave that lay 8 meters down.Golden masks have been placed on the face of five men. Two of them wore golden death masks, one of which is known under the conventional name “The Mask of Agamemnon”. Described as “the Mona Lisa of prehistory”, this mask, the finest of all, is the only one that shows a bearded man. Are you wondering what the mask looked like? Soon, you will find out! An exact copy of the golden mask of Agamemnon is on display here in the Archaeological Museum of Mycenae, while the original one is exhibited in the National Archaeological Museum.In the Iliad, Homer narrates how Agamemnon, the ruler of Mycenae, led the Greek army in the Trojan War. He was the son of Atreus, king of Mycenae, and his wife Aerope. His brother was Menelaus, king of Sparta and husband of Helen of Troy, who, according to the myth, was the most beautiful woman on earth and the apple of discord that caused the Trojan war. We could say that the Trojan War was more than just a war between Greeks and Trojans; it was a monumental clash of heroes and kings from various tribes and regions, each driven by the pursuit of glory, honor, and noble combat. Or not?But let’s continue. Before sailing to Troy, the Greek army was assembled at the port of Aulis, but the winds were unfavorable. You see, the powerful goddess Artemis was furious with Agamemnon, for he had killed one of her sacred deer. To appease her, Agamemnon decided to sacrifice his daughter, young Iphigenia. The Greek ships sailed to Troy and the war was won, but his terrible deed was not forgotten, nor forgiven. There are some things you can get away with and others you can’t. Choosing war over family is among them. Clytemnestra could not forgive Agamemnon for the sacrifice of Iphigenia. During her husband’s ten-year absence, Clytemnestra ran the kingdom and the household. Aegisthus found his way to the king’s empty bed and seduced the queen. He tried to persuade her to murder Agamemnon despite the warnings of God Hermes that this terrible act would spark the wrath of Orestes, the king’s son, who would eventually kill the two plotters.
Stop 5 - The House of the Warrior Vase
Now, go back to the main path to walk a few meters until you see a platform on your right hand. As you stand on the platform, you can see the House of the Warrior Vase.The house owes its name to the figures of soldiers presented on a bowl that Heinrich Schliemann found in fragments. A large ceramic bowl, dating back to the 12th century BC, was used for mixing wine and water. Six men are depicted leaving for war in full armor, while a pack of supplies is hanging from their spears. On the side, a female figure raises her hand in a farewell gesture. On the backside of the vase, five soldiers, wearing different helmets, raise their spears. The handles of the vase are decorated with painted birds and a bovine head in relief. The vase is a remarkable example of the art produced in the late Mycenean period.The house, which Schliemann considered to be part of Agamemnon’s palace, consisted of two apartments separated by a corridor. The north apartment had three rooms. These rooms probably served as storage rooms as indicated by the discovery of several bronze vases and a jar containing carbonized olives. The south apartment was constructed in the form of megaron and had a closed vestibule facing the fortification wall.
Stop 6 - The Cult Center
Returning to the main path and going up, you will see the Megaron – the favorite place of the King.Unfortunately, poorly preserved - according to historians it was destroyed in a fire – the royal palace was arranged around a large square room, called Megaron, with four columns supporting the roof. Located on the heights of the citadel, the palace was terraced with three rooms, including the megaron, following one another in enfilade.The Megaron was spacious and consisted of a porch, a vestibule, and a large room with a circular hearth and four pillars. The main room was designed to be pleasant throughout the year. The large hearth in the center warmed the room and the king who sat on his throne, situated to the right as one enters the room. There was also an opening over the hearth to allow light in. The shutters opened and closed depending on the direction of the wind and the temperature to cool the room or preserve its heat. Guests were welcome, but their accommodation is somehow a conundrum for us today. We know that in the Mycenean era, hospitality was generous, and visitors had the time to eat and rest before being asked any questions regarding their visit. But we find no guest rooms in the palace, and we know that the visitors would never be allowed to sleep in the principal room, as that could pose a threat to the king’s security. Therefore, it seems likely that guests were accommodated somewhere in the portico.Before you start descending, take some minutes to admire the view of the orange fields and gardens that are the heart of the Greek earth.
Stop 7 - The Royal Palace
Returning to the main path and going up, you will see the Megaron – the favorite place of the King.Unfortunately, poorly preserved - according to historians it was destroyed in a fire – the royal palace was arranged around a large square room, called Megaron, with four columns supporting the roof. Located on the heights of the citadel, the palace was terraced with three rooms, including the megaron, following one another in enfilade.The Megaron was spacious and consisted of a porch, a vestibule, and a large room with a circular hearth and four pillars. The main room was designed to be pleasant throughout the year. The large hearth in the center warmed the room and the king who sat on his throne, situated to the right as one enters the room. There was also an opening over the hearth to allow light in. The shutters opened and closed depending on the direction of the wind and the temperature to cool the room or preserve its heat. Guests were welcome, but their accommodation is somehow a conundrum for us today. We know that in the Mycenean era, hospitality was generous, and visitors had the time to eat and rest before being asked any questions regarding their visit. But we find no guest rooms in the palace, and we know that the visitors would never be allowed to sleep in the principal room, as that could pose a threat to the king’s security. Therefore, it seems likely that guests were accommodated somewhere in the portico.Before you start descending, take some minutes to admire the view of the orange fields and gardens that are the heart of the Greek earth.
Stop 8 - The Archaeological Museum of Mycenae
It is now time to take the way back and descend. As you continue your way down, you can see the Museum from above. Exit the Lion’s Gate and arrive near the turnstiles where you will find a path which leads to the Museum.The idea for the construction of this museum right next to the ancient site belongs to the late archaeologist George Mylonas, a member of the Greek Archaeological Society. Its construction began in 1985 and the museum was finally inaugurated in 2003.The building of the museum is modern and covers a total surface of 2,000 square meters. It is constructed on three levels and includes findings from excavations all over the ancient site of Mycenae. A big part of the building is used for storage and elaboration of the findings and only three rooms in two levels are exhibition rooms.The exhibits come from Mycenae and the wider region and represent periods from the Copper Period around 3,000 B.C. till the Hellenistic time in the 2nd century B.C. There are about 2,500 exhibits, mostly ceramic vases, jewelry, wall paintings, tools, and weapons. The jewelry pieces particularly are very impressive, made of gold and with complicated designs.In one of the rooms, you can also see a copy of the Golden Mask of Agamemnon, a grave mask that was found in the Treasury of Atreus. The original mask, a funeral mask made of pure gold, is kept in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. Its beauty and the story of how it was discovered are themselves now legendary in Greece.It was discovered by Heinrich Schliemann, a German with a passionate interest in Homer’s epic poems, the Iliad, and the Odyssey, which tell the stories of the best-known gods and heroes of Western culture. Schliemann was obsessed with the idea of finding traces that would confirm that the stories were true. But to tell the truth, Schliemann’s great interest in archaeology was born from his unscrupulous desire for gold hunting. In 1876, he was working on an archaeological site in the Peloponnesian city of Mycenae, a flourishing center between 1700 and 1200 BC. In some of the tombs near the royal palace, he uncovered a real treasure. He brought to light a total of 14 kilos of objects in gold and many others in ivory and ceramics that were no less spectacular or important. The most famous of these objects is the Mask of Agamemnon, which was tooled from the back. The moustache, beard and eyebrow details enhance the smooth surface, giving the “portrait” an expression of regal severity. Schliemann was so excited by the idea of having found the heroes of the Iliad that he claimed to have discovered the tomb of King Agamemnon, one of the main characters of the work, considered to have lived around 1200 BC. Later studies, however, have shown that the mask is 300 years older.The first room of the Archaeological Museum of Mycenae is dedicated to the life of the Myceneans with ceramic exhibits from the ancient town. The second room is dedicated to life after death and includes exhibits from graves, such as offerings to the dead. The third room is dedicated to the Mycenaean civilization in the concepts of religion, science, art, administration, and trade. At the entrance of the museum, there are wall posts narrating the history of Mycenae and its excavation. Right opposite the entrance, there is also a model of the ancient site.
Stop 9 - The Treasure of Atreus
Follow the way out to exit the museum and the main archaeological site. To reach the Treasure of Atreus, you need to follow the main road. It is walkable but it’s better to take your car as there are no pavements and it might be a little tricky. After a while, you shall see it on your right. The guard will ask you to present your ticket, and upon entering and going straight you will be in front of the Treasure of Atreus.The treasure of Atreus was believed to be the final resting place of Agamemnon’s father, but it was built centuries earlier, in 1410 BC. It was the largest vaulted space without interior supports that had ever been built and remained so for thousands of years until the Pantheon in Rome was built with its impressive dome. The façade was elaborately with carved stones in various colors, while the interior was adorned with gold, silver, and bronze decorations. The tomb was found empty as it had already been looted in antiquity.Atreus was the son of Pelops and brother of Thyestes. When he ascended the throne of Mycenae, his brother was displeased and sought revenge. Thus, he seduced Atreus’ wife. Soon Atreus discovered the betrayal and driven by his wrath, he murdered Thyestes’ children and invited his brother to dinner. When they finished the meal, the king of Mycenae revealed to his brother what he just had for supper was his children. Thyestes was horrified; he turned the table and ran away after cursing Atreus’ house. Even the sun was sickened at the atrocity, of this “Thyestean Feast” and changed its course.It was official! The House of Atreus was cursed. The gods declared that if Thyestes wanted to punish his brother he should sleep with his daughter, Pelopia. The offspring that would occur from this horrible incest would one day murder Atreus. So, Thyestes raped his daughter without revealing his identity and the poor girl abandoned her children on a mountain to be raised by a she-goat. Once he had grown up, the boy, Aegisthus, entered the service of Atreus unaware of his ancestry. It so happened that Thyestes was captured by Atrus’ men and Aegisthus was sent to kill him. But Thyestes recognized his son and called upon him to punish the house of Atreus. The boy agreed and a terrible cycle of blood and violence was inaugurated.Never has a family suffered more than the House of Atreus. Their story will forever remind us of the abysmal depths and darkness of the human soul.Our journey is now coming to an end. Having explored their palace and glorious city, it is now time to leave Mycenae behind. I hope you enjoyed your time with me! If you are up for even more sightseeing, visit our website www.keytours.gr, choose from plenty of guided tours covering great sites of Greek history, and with the promo code KEYAUDIO, save 10% off your bookings. Goodbye!
