Introduction
Welcome to the charming town of Nafplion, located on the coast of the Peloponnese. Nafplion was the first capital of the modern Greek state and is now a vibrant seaside town with imposing castles, impressive churches, and fascinating museums. The town has a long and rich history, spanning from ancient times through to Venetian, Ottoman and modern states. Along with its beautiful and eclectic architecture, you'll find stunning natural features and a strong sense of culture in the town.My name is Nick and I have been a tour guide for over 10 years. I enjoy indulging visitors in the fascinating world of Greek history and together, we will explore some of the must-visit attractions and corners of the enchanting coastal town of Nafplion. Let’s begin!
Stop 1 - Philellinon Square
Leaving the parking area behind us, we start our walk standing at Philellinon Square which was once the site of the Venetian Bastion of Santa Teresa, which was later renamed the Bastion of Moschos, and was demolished in 1866.The monument to the Philhellenes, in other words, the friends of Greece, which dominates the center of the square, was completed in 1903, in memory of the French Philhellenes who fought and died for the liberation of Greece from the Turkish yoke during the Greek revolution.The monument is in the form of a memorial stone made of grey marble, and is in the shape of an obelisk, a form highly popular at the time. It was designed in Paris, but constructed in Greece in the marble works of John Chaldoupis. On one side of the raised base of the obelisk, there is a relief in white marble depicting the personalized forms of Greece and France, in the forms of Athena and Liberty respectively. On the eastern side of the base, there is an inscription in memory of the great French Philhellenes: Field Marshall Meson, General Fabvier and Admiral De Rigny, and all the French sailors and soldiers who fought for Greek independence.More recently, a bust was placed on the Northwest side of the square in the likeness of Mando Mavrogenous, a heroine of the Greek revolution, who lived in Nafplion from 1824 to 1831.On the northeast side of the square, on King Otto's Street, there is an important two-storey neo-classical building from the 19th century, which belonged to the Iatrou family, who were well-known benefactors to the city. The town hall was housed here from 1972 until its recent move to Trion Navarchon Square.
Stop 2 - The Church of the Holy Virgin
Moving ahead and having the sea on our right hand, two blocks away, you should find an old church. Even though it gives the impression of being sort of tucked away in a nondescript part of the city, the church of the Holy Virgin is among the most beautiful in Nafplion. It is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary and it is one of the oldest churches in the city.The original church, which dates from the 15th century to the time of the first Venetian occupation, was smaller and belonged to the Orthodox Church. In around 1700, during the time of the second Venetian occupation, the church took its current form, a three-aisled basilica. The interior has a beautiful wooden chancel in the eptanisian style and was created in the 19th century. The pulpit and bishop's throne are also in the same style. The narthex is a later addition, while the bell tower dates from 1907.The Church of the Holly Virgin also celebrates the memory of Saint Anastasios, the Patron Saint of the City. Every year, on 1st February, the saint's feast day, there is a great procession of the icon of the protector of the city.Today, the Church of Holly Virgin, is a favourite pilgrimage site for visitors to the city and is well known for the procession which takes place on Good Friday and winds through the narrow streets of Nafplion to the sounds of the choir chanting the eulogy.And an inside information… The old olive tree you can see next to the church is said to mark the spot where the Ottomans tortured Saint Anastasios.
Stop 3 - The Bourtzi fortress
Before we move on to the Archaeological Museum, look towards the sea and the little island with a castle on it, located in the middle of the Argolic Gulf. "Castello dello Soglio" was the first name of the Venetian castle, which along with Palamidi, is considered one of the landmarks of Nafplion. Nevertheless, the name that finally prevailed is Bourtzi, which in Turkish means "Island - Fortress". With the Venetian "castle of the throne" there is always a dilemma for you: Is it better to gaze at it from a distance -like a postcard that never fades- or to walk inside this miniature of a castle and get strong scents of history?What is certain is that just looking at it is not enough; just like everybody else, you will probably want to know its history. Bourtzi was built on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1473, by the Italian engineer Gambelo and that is why its first name is Italian. Moreover, if you have heard people refer to Nafplion as "the chain harbor" (Porto Cadena), this is because there was, indeed, a mobile chain which connected Acronafplia with Bourtzi and whose purpose was to protect the harbor and the city from invaders from the sea and pirates.As years passed by, the Venetian castle was used in a variety of ways. Being, initially, the first prison of Kolokotronis (best-known hero of the Greek revolution against the Turks) and the residence of the executioners of Palamidi, it later offered housing to the Greek government twice. During the '30s it operated as a center of the Greek National Tourist Organization and from 1960 to 1970 as a luxury hotel and restaurant.In the past, several musical and cultural events were held at the Venetian castle during the summer.The Inauguration at Bourtzi took place on October 27th 2023 and the exhibition hall as well as a souvenir shop started operating in the bastions.
Stop 4 - The Archaeological Museum
Our next stop is the Archaeological Museum of Nafplion, 2 minutes’ walk away.Stone almost always indicates a Venetian building. The Archaeological Museum is probably the grandest in Nafplion and a must-visit destination if you are an archaeology buff.In 1713, the Venetians probably thought they would be in Nafplion forever. The Superintendent of the Fleet, Agostino Sagredo, invested heavily in this magnificent warehouse for naval supplies. Two years later, the Venetians were out. The austere building remained and was used as barracks by the subsequent masters of Nafplion. Today, it houses the Archaeological Museum with thousands of artefacts from Argolis (not Mycenae, though, since the treasures found in Agamemnon’s city are in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens). The most stunning exhibit is the Dendra panoply, a scarce example of Mycenae-era full-body armour made of bronze plates and a boar’s-tusk helmet.
Stop 5 - Syntagma Square
Here we are at Syntagma Square! Think of how important the spot is, since, several years ago, revolutionary plans were decided by chieftains. The square is beautiful, like a miniature of the city and reveals the individual identity and the history of Nafplion. Stand for a moment in the middle of the square - just a little attention to the skates behind you - and observe the buildings. I am sure that you are going to feel the energy! Here you can see the building of parliament, which housed the first Greek Parliament. Right in front of you lies “Trianon”, namely the Old Mosque. We will talk about all these buildings later. In 1843, the square was named Louis Square, by king Othon, in honor of his father.That same year, after the "movement of September 3rd" -when the Greek people asked for a constitution in Athens- this square (like in Athens) was renamed as Syntagma Square. It was reconstructed in 1980, by Mayor Nick Karapavlos. Here, at the building that now occupies the National Bank, was the home of Kalliope Papalexopoulos. From the balcony of the house, the mayor's wife encouraged the people of Nafplion to revolt! You will see right there the sculpture in her honor.Once you get a good dose of history, you will sit in the square for a coffee or a drink. Here you will find almost everybody in the morning, as well as in the evening since it is a square "alive" day and night. From here, your most beautiful walks will begin towards the old city. And here again, you will end up resting.
Stop 6 - Trianon - The old mosque
In a city full of old buildings, the old mosque is probably the oldest. It stands at the end of the city’s grandest street and the beginning of its most majestic square.It took the Ottomans three years to capture Nafplion in the sixteenth century. However, once they became masters of the town, they lost no time leaving their mark on the city. The old mosque in Nafplion is possibly the only building from the decades that immediately followed the city’s fall to the Ottomans to survive. There are strong elements of Byzantine architecture. The mosque is square with a large central dome, and an arcade on the west side roofed with three smaller domes. As with most old buildings in Nafplion, it was put to various uses through the centuries, including a Roman Catholic church in the late 17th century and a school from 1828 until early 1833.The mosque stands at the end of Vasileos Konstantinou Street, the first thoroughfare in Nafplion built to European specifications. Most of the buildings on either side of the street were built in the neoclassical style in the 1830s and 1840s. The mosque opens into Syntagma Square, the probable location of the Ottoman governor’s seraglio in the 16th century. The square’s name refers to the 3rd September 1843 revolution that forced King Otto to grant the country’s first constitution. Many prominent politicians and military leaders owned houses near the square, while public figures stood in the shade of a famous plane tree (not the one you can see in the square) to deliver fiery speeches.Today many theatrical performances, art exhibitions and school events are organized at Trianon.
Stop 7 - The Komboloi Stores
As we continue our tour, one thing you will notice is the many shops with worry beads: worry beads made of various stones and colours, big or smaller in size, of old or modern times. The Komboloi, or worry beads, may be one of the most typical symbols of Greece’s easy-going mentality that has been widely established both in Greece and Cyprus since the middle of the 20th century.Yet, the history of the komboloi and its origins date back to time immemorial, when monks on Mount Athos began making strands of beads by tying knots on a string at regular intervals in order to say their prayers to God.However, in modern times, worry beads are often not designed for religious or ceremonial purposes but rather for fun and relaxation.Whether on the street or in the coffee shops downtown, you will find people playing with their worry beads in different manners, even doing flips and tricks with them, letting go of their stress and worries as one bead moves deliberately towards the other.The pleasure of the action and the clicking noise of the beads turn the overall performance into an easy motion that is reported to help ease tension. And who doesn’t need that, even these days, right?
Stop 8 - The First Pharmacy
At the next corner, those of Vassileos Konstantinou and Velini streets, you will notice the sign that informs you that this was the first pharmacy. In this neoclassical building, whose construction dates back to 1828 - 1865, the pharmacist Bonifaccio Bonafin created the first pharmacy named "Sotir"; furthermore here the heap of John Kapodistrias was embalmed.The building has preserved morphological features such as angular pilasters with ceramic cups, perimeter corrugated corners, arched openings on the ground floor, German-style window frames on the first floor, and a balcony with metal bells and rails. However, the door and the entrance door to the floor, which is located on the street of Velini, are of great interest. The entrance of the ground floor shop is located at Vasileos Konstantinou Street.Today the building is in relatively good condition. The ground floor houses commercial activities, while the upper floor is used as a residence.
Stop 9 - The Three Admirals’ Square
And here it is the square of the Three Admirals, which is dedicated to the memory of the admirals: Kodrington of England; Derigny of France and Hayden of Russia, who fought the Turko-Egyptian fleet in the sea battle of Navarone on the 8th of October 1827.The square was constructed in the time of the governor of Greece, John Kapodistrias, by the civil engineer Stamatis Voulgaris, and includes many interesting buildings and monuments. In the middle of the square is the funeral monument containing the remains of Dimitrios Ypsilandis, one of the leaders of the Greek revolution. Ypsilandis, who died as the result of a chronic hereditary illness at the age of 40, was originally buried in the narthex of the church of Saint George. However, in 1843 the remains were re-buried, during an official ceremony, in this monument, which was created in Vienna, following a commission by his brother, George Ypsilandis.There are many splendid neo-classical buildings in the square, among which the building which today houses the town hall stands out. Next to this, at 32 Vasileos Konstadinou Street, is the pharmacy which belonged to the Italian Philhellene, Bonifatsio Bonafin, who embalmed the body of the murdered governor, John Kapodistrias. Behind the monument to Ypsilandis, in the western section of the square, one can see the statue of the first king of Greece, Otto, the second son of Ludwig I of Bavaria who arrived in Nafplion on 25th January 1833, and remained in the city for a short while until 1834. On the site where the statue of Otto now stands, between Vasileos Konstadinou and Amalia's Street, there was once one of the most important buildings in Nafplion, the Governor's Mansion, otherwise known as 'the Palataki', or 'little palace' which was destroyed by fire in 1929. The Governor's Mansion was built in 1829, exactly 100 years before it was destroyed. It was designed by the Italian architect, Pasquale Ippoliti, for the offices of the then newly formed government and the residence of the first governor of Greece, John Kapodistrias.The construction was paid for by the governor himself, with some help from donations from Greek expatriates. Both its exterior and interior had an air of austerity. It was a neo-classical building with emphasis on the horizontal axis. The interior was noticeable for the sparseness of furnishings, following instructions from the governor himself. When Kapodistrias was murdered, it was here, in the central hall, that the embalmed body was placed for public viewing.When the young king Otto came to Nauplion, he also resided in the Governor's Mansion. It was then re-named the 'Royal Palace'; but to the ordinary people it was the 'Palataki', or little palace; the name by which it is still known today.
Stop10 - The Armansperg Residence
Nafplion is a magnificent and relatively rare ensemble of Neoclassical buildings that enchant visitors. But even among all these architectural treasures, some homes stand out. One of them is the Armansperg Residence. Walking deeper into the city’s heart, one of the most important mansions from the reign of Otto will be revealed. The building originally dates from the second Venetian occupation, but it was rebuilt in 1831 and the second floor was added.The house was home to the president of the regency, Count Joseph Ludwig von Armansperg, during 1833 and 1834. Armansperg was a highly controversial personality, and he has remained best known for the conspiratorial and autocratic nature of his policies.According to witnesses of the time, the house was one of the largest in the city and the interior decoration left nothing to be desired in comparison to the greatest houses in Europe; The Armansperg residence was the social hub of Nafplion. It had a piano (a rarity in post-revolutionary Greece) and attracted members of the high society to its regular evening gatherings and formal dances. However, the host did not always rise to the occasion. One night, he invited the young king to a soiree at his house but failed to greet him in the ballroom, limiting his interaction with his ruler to a simple nod from afar. When Otto made Athens the new capital of Greece in 1834, von Armansperg followed the king. His totalitarian nature and willingness to conspire against Otto to preserve his power and influence eventually forced the king’s hand. In 1837, Otto dismissed von Armansperg from his port and sent him back to Bavaria. Nobody seems to have lamented his departure. Today, the house he occupied in Nafplion lies empty, except for the few stores on the ground floor.At one time, directly opposite the Armansperg residence, there stood the residence of Georg Ludwig von Maurer, the vice-president of the regency.
Stop 11 - The Land Gate
Underneath the imposing walls of Acronafplia and in front of the first buildings of the Old City, there is a monument which will capture your sight; it is the Land Gate.The Land Gate was built in 1708, by the French engineer, and succeeded the earlier gate dating from the first Venetian occupation. It was the only entrance to the city by land and, in fact, the gate would be closed at sunset. Whoever remained outside after that time was obliged to spend the night outside the city, usually in the Pronia suburb. In front of the gate was a moat filled with seawater, which ran along the eastern wall of the city. Access was only possible via a wooden drawbridge.The gate was gradually demolished between 1894 and 1897. In around 1894 the moat was also filled in.Only a few of the gate's architectural structures have survived, such as the stone lion from the crown, which is missing the head, the wings and the tail. There is also the family crest of the commander Grimani, with the date 1708. Today, the façade of the gate has been reconstructed following a special study of its original form. Basically, the structure of the gate is simple: an arch with two pillars on either side; while at the highest point, there was a statue of a lion, the symbol of the Venetian state. Near the left-hand pillar, there is a plaque, which has been inlaid into the wall, commemorating the liberation of the city by the Venetian general-in-chief, Francesco Morosini in 1687.Before we turn our back to the gate and take the direction towards the port again, there are another two landmarks that are somewhat out of the way but please don’t miss visiting after our tour ends. It’s the monumental statue on horseback with the hero of the Greek revolution, Theodoros Kolokotronis and the lion of the Bavarians which is carved into the rock on a monumental scale and seems to be sleeping.Also, a few blocks away, there is the National Gallery, which is housed in a wonderful neoclassical building.It houses historical paintings from the National Gallery collection, related to the Greek War of Independence (1821-1829), thus giving the historical character of the city of Nafplion, as the first capital of Greece, palpable form. Educational programs are also held here, for the schools of Primary and Secondary Education of Greece.
Stop 12 - The Metropolitan Church of Saint George
So, we continue until we meet the Metropolitan Church of Saint George, one of the most important and oldest churches in the city, and many great events from Greek history took place here.It is believed to have been built around the beginning of the 16th century, during the time of the first Venetian occupation of the city, but after the invasion of the city by the Turks in 1540, it was turned into a mosque.In 1686, when the Venetians successfully retook the city from the Turks, the church of Saint George was the site of the reception for the victorious commander-in-chief, Francesco Morosini, and a service of thanks was held here. During the second Turkish occupation, the church was once again turned into a mosque, and after the liberation of the city in 1822, Saint George became Orthodox.The church is built in the basilica style, with a dome and murals that must have been created during the second Venetian occupation, around the beginning of the 18th century, in a western style. In fact, the depiction of the Last Supper is a copy of the well-known composition by Leonardo da Vinci. In 1823 the murals were re-painted by Dimitrios Vyzantios, the author of the famous 'Babylon'.The funerals of many famous figures from the Greek revolution were held in Saint George; such as Palaion Patron Germanos or Dimitrios Ypsilandis, who was actually buried in the narthex of the church. It was here, amidst great solemnity, that the funeral service of the murdered Greek governor, John Kapodistrias was held. His embalmed remains were placed in the vestry for about six months, until 29th March 1832.It was to the church of Saint George that Otto, the first King of Greece, came on 25th January 1833, as soon as he landed in Nafplion. Today, the throne where the young Otto sat during services can still be seen.The narthex and bell-tower were added in 1834 by the regent who ruled until Otto came of age, in order to commemorate the king's arrival in the city. It was at this time that Saint George became Nafplion's Metropolitan church.South of the church there is a very important building that dates from the time of the first Venetian occupation, as does the church itself. In around 1712 it must have housed the Venetian Religious School, while during the 19th century the building had various uses, such as a printing press, or an orphanage. We know that in 1824 it housed the Ministry of Education and, in 1830, the Hellenic School.There are houses in Saint George Square which demonstrate the austere elements of early neo-classicism. Every summer there are concerts held here as part of the famous Nauplion Festival, which is successfully organised by Nafplion City Council. Apart from Saint George Square, concerts are held at other beautiful sites around the city, such as the bastion of Saint Andreas at the Palamidi; the Bourtzi and Arvanitias Square.
Stop 13 - The Church of Saint Spyridon
A couple of blocks away, we will admire the Church of Saint Spyridon, whose construction was completed in 1702, during the time of the second Venetian occupation of the city, funded by the Nafplian Brotherhood of Orthodox Greeks. It is a single-nave church with a dome.It was here, outside this church, that one of the blackest events in modern Greek history took place. At dawn on 27th September 1831, John Kapodistrias was murdered by the Maniatian brothers George and Konstantinos Mavromichalis.Kapodistrias was on his way to church, as was his habit every Sunday, to Saint Spyridonas, which was consecrated to the patron saint of his birthplace, Corfu. At the entrance to the church, however, the two assassins were waiting for him, and, after they had greeted him, they attacked Konstantinos Mavromichalis with a pistol and George with a knife. The governor died instantly. Konstantinos Mavromichalis was chased and lynched by the furious crowd, while George was executed a few days later.The grief resulting from the death of the governor was great. His embalmed body was laid out in the Governor’s Mansion for many days for people to come and pay their respects, and his funeral was held on 18th October 1831 in a somber ceremony in the church of Saint George. His internal organs were placed in an exquisite casket under the altar of Saint Spyridonas.A brass and glass case on the right side of the entrance indicated a mark left by the bullet that killed Kapodistrias. A casket under the church’s altar contains the governor’s internal organs.
Stop 14 - Vouleftikon – The first parliament
Our last point of interest is the Parliament building, which is in the southwest sector of Syntagma Square, which holds a special place in Greek history, as it was here that the parliament of the rebellious Greeks met.It dates from 1730, the time of the second Turkish occupation of the city and was originally built as a mosque. It was built in ashlar masonry and consists of a square chamber with a large dome. It is a characteristic mosque of the late Ottoman architectural period, with its heavy proportions and bulky dome. To the west, there was once a domed portico, but this fell during an earthquake at the beginning of the 20th century.According to local tradition, this mosque was built by a rich Turkish Aga to redeem his soul from a heinous crime that he had committed: the Aga had killed two young Venetians who had come to Nafplion to find the treasure that their father had hidden when the city was occupied by the Venetians. The Aga found the treasure following the map that was in the possession of the two men, but he killed them to keep the loot for himself. Later, filled with remorse for his hideous crime, it is said that he used the gold he had stolen to build the large mosque in the square, which became known as the mosque of Aga-Pasha.After the liberation of the city from the Turkish yoke the mosque was used to house the Greek Parliament, from the autumn of 1825 to the spring of 1826, after suitable remodeling by the architect Vallianos. This was its most important use, and the name of 'Vouleftiko' or 'Parliament' has remained in use to the present day. As with many of the most important buildings in the city, with the passing of time it has been used for a variety of purposes.In 1831 it housed the Greek School for a short time, while the ground floor was used as a prison. During the time of Kapodistrias and Otto, from 1828 to 1834, it was here that public dances were held. In 1834, during the regency period, the trial of the chiefs of the Greek Revolution, Theodoros Kolokotronis and Dimitrios Plapoutas, was held here.Today the Parliament has been restored in an exemplary fashion by the Greek Ministry of Culture and is used as a conference centre, which, apart from conferences, plays host to many other cultural events. The Municipal Gallery of Nafplion is housed on the ground floor where works of contemporary Greek artists are presented. Do not miss the opportunity to see it. However, even if the Gallery is closed, visit the second-floor terrace, and enjoy the beautiful view.
Stop 15 - The End
And now my friends, our tour has come to an end. Thank you for following in the footsteps of KeyTours routes and listening to our stories about the history of Nafplion.You can enjoy romantic walks in the picturesque alleyways, wander in beautiful shops, have coffee with a view of Bourtzi, dine in nice taverns... What remains to complete your getaway in the charming and historic Nafplion ideally? Well, of course, a visit to its unique museums, a journey into the world of history, tradition, and art, that will make you see Nafplion in a different light. Apart from the Archaeological Museum that we talked a little bit about and the National Gallery, in the picturesque Sofroni street, the Vassilis Papantoniou Foundation (BPF) led by its founder, Ms. Ioanna Papantoniou, is a center of Greek culture and tradition. If you are fascinated by the history of folklore and costume, you will certainly be impressed by many of its exhibits, such as traditional costumes, embroideries, furniture pieces, and tools, and you will spend hours admiring them. In addition, spend some time to enter the war museum where precious treasures are preserved, exhibits from the Greek Revolution, the Macedonian Struggle, the Balkan Wars, and World War 1.There is much more to be discovered in a fascinating city like this, but we will leave this part to you and your wanderlust!If you are up for even more sightseeing, visit our website at www.keytours.gr, choose from plenty of guided tours covering great sites of Greek history, and with the promo code KEYAUDIO, save 10% off your booking. Goodbye!
