The Natchez Trace Parkway
Double Arch Bridge
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Timberland Park
Garrison Creek and Highland Rim Section Northern Terminus
Named for a nearby 1801-02 U.S. Army post, Garrison Creek is a trailhead for horseback riders and hikers on the Highland Rim Trail of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. Plenty of horse trailer parking is available.This part of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail is 20 miles in length. From the Garrison Creek trailhead you can hike or ride your horse south to Tennessee Highway 50, milepost 408, near the Gordon House. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
War of 1812 Memorial
This monument memorializes War of 1812 soldiers buried along the old Natchez Trace. And it honors the service of all brave volunteers who marched on the Natchez Trace during the War of 1812 to help establish American independence.The Natchez Trace served as an important route to move troops for the defense of the Gulf Coast Region. Tennessee volunteer calvary under leadership of Andrew Jackson marched down the Natchez Trace to Natchez in January 1813. General Jackson marched with his soldiers on their return April 1813. Solder detachments under Jackson's command again marched on the Natchez Trace in 1814. And following the victory of the Battle of New Orleans, most of the Americans who fought the battle returned on the Trace. Volunteers marched hundreds of miles often in severe weather with little food and inadequate equipment. Natchez Trace inns served as hospitals. Soldiers who did not survive the marches are buried in unmarked graves along the Trace. On General Jackson's return near this point, he proclaimed his view of the significance of the victory earned by the soldier's sacrifices "Our Rights Will Henceforth Be Respected".Tennessee State Society United States Daughters of 1812On The Bicentennial June 16, 2012
Burns Branch
This is a trailhead for the Highland Rim Section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. This trailhead has parking for vehicles but not trailer parking and is not a staging area for horses. The site offers a hitching post and a picnic table to take a break if you would like.
Tennessee Valley Divide
The high ground at this site are part of a long ridge that divides central Tennessee. Streams south of the divide flow to the Duck and Tennessee Rivers, while streams to the north empty in the Cumberland River.Travelers in the early days of the Natchez Trace were more conscious of the divide. Moving on foot or on horseback, they noticed changes in elevation and stream direction. Going north toward Nashville, the Tennessee Valley Divide marked the edge of the frontier. This was the 1796 boundary between Tennessee and the Chickasaw Nation.Highland Rim Section Trailhead Information: This trailhead parking is open to hikers only. As the scenic trail passes the parking lot, riders and hikers are rewarded with views of the Parkway, including vibrant blooms in the spring, and spectacular colors in the fall.National Park Service
Water Valley Overlook
Gordon House Historic Site
Somewhat stark and a little imposing, the Gordon House you see today masks the welcome it once gave to travelers and locals alike. The brick home of Captain John Gordon and his family, built in 1818, was one of the more impressive homes in the area. It was a landmark for travelers of the Old Trace, letting them know that soon they would be in Nashville, Tennessee, where simple human comforts could be found after weeks of walking on a well-traveled but rustic trail. The Gordon family called it home, but it was a business as well. A ferry provided a safe way for travelers and locals alike to cross the Duck River, and the grounds provided boatmen on their way home a place to sleep for the night.Who was John Gordon?Postmaster, trader, farmer, captain, and entrepreneur are all careers that John Gordon held during his 56-year life. As the father of 11 children, he and his wife Dolly were looking for opportunities to provide for their family.In the early 1800s, this site was just inside Chickasaw Territory, and any business needed a Chickasaw representative. In 1802, a partnership formed between Gordon and Chickasaw Chief William Colbert. Gordon operated a ferry across the Duck River, a stand for weary travelers, and a trading post years before he and his family would move to this site they would call home.Gordon, his wife Dolly, and their children permanently moved from Nashville to the Duck River site in 1812, according to family records. Shortly after the family arrived, Gordon left home to serve his country.Captain Gordon and the War of 1812Gordon became Captain of the Spies (the leader of one of two scouting units) for Andrew Jackson during the Creek War, often considered part of the War of 1812. Gordon was active from the Battle of Talladega in 1813, through the Battle of Horseshoe Bend in 1814. He was seen as a leader, and had the ability to improve moral and keep troops motivated. On multiple occasions, Gordon received General Jackson’s praises: “Capt. Gordon who was in front at [the head] of the spies rushed, to the fight, and entered into the persuit [sic]...” Letter from Andrew Jackson to Rachel Jackson, 1814.As Jackson’s “faithful spy,” Gordon continued to assist him, even after the War of 1812. He was also instrumental in the Seminole War. Gordon and the rest of Jackson’s troops made settlers feel safe, but it came at a cost to the Creek Indians. They were forced to give up 23 million acres of their homeland. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Baker Bluff Overlook
Jackson Falls
For thousands of years before the falls existed Jackson Branch flowed into this high valley isolated from the Duck River below. Then in a classic case of stream piracy, the Duck River captured Jackson Branch. The flooding river and other erosional agents wore away at the bluffs, cutting a new channel through faults in the rock. At the site of Jackson Falls the diverted stream slips down into the Duck River Valley abandoning its former course.A steep trail (concrete sidewalk) 900 feet long takes you to a clear pool at the base of these falls. This trail descends to Jackson Falls a beautifully sculptured cascade. This is one of two waterfalls along the Natchez Trace Parkway. The other waterfall is Fall Hollow located at milepost 391.9 near Hohenwald, Tennessee.Please do not climb on the falls it is very slick and dangerous and can lead to significant injuries.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Old Trace
Preserved here is a 2,000 foot long section of the original Old Natchez Trace which follows a ridge 300 feet above the Duck River.A 10-15 minute walk will take you to the end of the trail and back and provide a change of pace from driving.As you walk the Old Natchez Trace imagine the ordeal of early 1800s travelers who had to make 20 to 30 miles a day on foot or horseback.National Park Service
Tobacco Farm Road and the Old Trace
This 2 mile road (one-way) follows the original Old Natchez Trace route heading north. Along the drive there are views of the countryside. RVs and buses are prohibited due to the narrow road and low hanging limbs. Low clearance vehicles are not recommended either.While on the Old Trace Drive you will be driving on a section of the Old Natchez Trace and see for yourself this frontier road much as it appeared in the early 1800s.The modern parkway follows the general route of the Old Natchez Trace. Engineering standards and the necessity of preserving sections of the Old Natchez Trace have made it impractical to follow it exactly. National Park Service
Sheboss, MP 400.2
Travel on the Natchez Trace was an adventure in the early 1800s. The 500 mile Trace transversed a sprawling wilderness where only Indians, outlaws and wild animals were at home. Travelers needed a place to find food, supplies and rest. At government request the Chickasaw tribe permitted an establishment of inns or stands at one day intervals through their lands, but only if Indians were the proprietors. One such stand was known as Sheboss once operated near here although the exact location is unknown.A widow operated an inn here with her Indian second husband who spoke little English. According to legend when travelers approached with questions about accommodations he would only point to his wife and say, "She boss."The Trail Where They CriedIn 1838, the Cherokee living in the Southeast faced the combined weight of hostile federal and state policies. Forcible removal from their traditional homeland became a fearfly, tearful reality. In the aftermath of hardships suffered by Cherokee who had traveled west, tribal leaders managed their own removal plans.
Old Trace
Before 1805 the Chickasaw owned all the land in this vicinity. Only the Natchez Trace, part of which remains here, made inroads into tribal territory.When the Chickasaw ceded the land to the United States in the early 1800s the Natchez Trace became a boundary. The land behind you became government property under the 1805 treaty. In 1816 the tribe ceded a much larger tract including the land in front of you.In 1837 the Chickasaw were removed from their homeland. Chickasaw Removal is the most traumatic chapter in Chickasaw history. As a result of Congress’ Indian Removal Act, the Chickasaw people were forced to remove to Indian Territory. The foresight and skilled negotiating practices of Chickasaw leaders led to favorable sales of Chickasaw lands in Mississippi. This allowed the Chickasaw Nation, unlike other tribes, to pay for our own removal.Chickasaw families were met with hardship and death along the Removal, traveling hundreds of miles in extreme cold and heat; however, Chickasaws suffered less than other tribes because they controlled their departures and chose favorable seasons to travel. This undoubtedly saved many lives that otherwise could have been lost.Other tribes removed to Indian Territory were the Cherokee, Choctaw, Muscogee (Creek) and Seminole. The Chickasaws were one of the last to remove. In 1837, They signed the Treaty of Doaksville with the Choctaw Nation and purchased the right for the settlement of the Chickasaw people in their own district within Choctaw Territory. Most Chickasaws removed to Indian Territory from 1837-1851. However, Chickasaw families continued to arrive in Indian Territory up to the 1890s, as evidenced by Chickasaw tribal enrollment in the Dawes Rolls.As the Chickasaw began to move into their district, they discovered Plains Indian tribes roaming freely across the lands. These tribes still lived a migratory lifestyle and made frequent raids on Chickasaw homesteads. The Plains Indian tribes did not understand the United States removing other tribes onto their historic homeland. To fulfill the treaty promise to protect the removed Southeastern tribes, the federal government built Fort Washita and Fort Arbuckle to maintain peace between the various tribes. Chickasaws still desired their own separate territory to restore governmental authority for their people and separate affairs from the Choctaws. In 1856, the Chickasaws separated from the Choctaws and created their own constitution for their own separate lands.National Park Service
Devil's Backbone
Swan View Overlook
A secluded and wooded picnic area at the Meriwether Lewis Site, milepost 385.9, near Hohenwald, TN. To find the picnic area, drive down the road past the campground. There is plenty of parking for all sizes of vehicles. . Drive down the road past the campground. There are three sections for picnicking. You can choose from secluded, wooded, or by the stream. There is access to a trail.
Fall Hollow Waterfalls
Fall Hollow is one of two waterfalls along the Natchez Trace Parkway. Almost immediately after leaving your vehicle you can hear the water descending over the twenty foot drop making Fall Hollow waterfall. If you continue down this short trail you will come to a viewing platform that views the 20-foot tall waterfall. The trail and platforms get slippery due to the water and moisture of the area. Please watch your step.Please do not climb on the rocks around the waterfall. The rocks become very slippery and dangerous. You can sustain significant injuries if you fall.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Phosphate Mine
Phosphate in these limestone layers came from shellfish deposited here some 400 million years ago. Recently, geologically speaking, these limestone ledges became exposed.Through the years, unknown and uncounted men have passed this ledge, ignorant of the wealth it held. Certainly, some of them needed the phosphate to revitalize their worn-out farms. About 1880, man learned the importance of phosphate as a fertilizer, discovered it here and began to mine it. From here north for approximately 40 miles the parkway passes through or near a geologic region of limestone rich in phosphate deposits. Abandoned mine shafts in limestone ledges on both sides of the Parkway in this immediate area are silent reminders of the past mining activity.A 5-minute walk starting at the right of the wooden sign leads to an abandoned railroad bed and a collapsed mineshaft in a limestone outcrop. National Park Service
Meriwether Lewis Death and Burial Site
The Meriwether Lewis monument marks the burial site of famed explorer Meriwether Lewis on the Natchez Trace Parkway near present day Hohenwald, Tennessee. The Meriwether Lewis Monument was built in 1848 with funding provided by the Tennessee legislature. The legislation provided $500 “to preserve the place of internment, where the remains of General Meriwether Lewis were deposited.”
Metal Ford
“I was roused from this melancholy reverie by the roaring of Buffalo River, which I forded with great difficulty” – Naturalist, Alexander Wilson in 1811At Metal Ford, milepost 382.8, travelers on the old Natchez Trace crossed the Buffalo River which was fordable except after heavy rains. The ford takes its name from its stone bottom, which reminded these earlier travelers of stone surfaced or “metaled” roads back home.Also at this location is a short trail, 5 to 10 minute walk, which will take you to an old millrace, a river channel whose current fed Steele’s Iron Works to produce primitive pig iron in the 1820s.National Park Service
Napier Mine
This open pit was worked in the 1800s to supply ore for the tools the settlers needed. Shellfish deposited here throughout this part of Tennessee more than 400 million years ago have transformed into limestone layers containing phosphate, an important fertilizer at least since the 1860s.John Catron was a principal promoter of the activities here in the 1820s and 1830s. Catron later became the Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court. The mine took its name from Catron's predecessors, the Napiers.National Park Service
Jack's Branch
Jacks Branch is a stream that runs through the forest at this stop. The scenery changes with each season. There is an accessible restroom and picnic table.
Old Trace Drive
This 2.5-mile road (one-way) follows the original Old Natchez Trace route. Several overlooks provide views of the countryside. RVs and buses are prohibited due to the narrow road and low hanging limbs. While on the Old Trace Drive, you will be driving on a section of the Old Natchez Trace and see for yourself this frontier road much as it appeared in the early 1800s.En route, stop at the three scenic overlooks to enjoy the fine views. The modern parkway follows the general route of the Old Natchez Trace. Engineering standards and the necessity of preserving sections of the Old Natchez Trace have made it impractical to follow them exactly. This is a great place to view the fall colors from the comfort of your vehicle.
Laurel Hill Management Area
At milepost 372.7 is the entrance to the Laurel Hill Wildlife Management Area. Wooded and open areas are home to wild turkeys, white-tailed deer, squirrels, and rabbits. Migratory birds spend the warmer months in the management area; the Great Blue Heron, Belted Kingfisher, and Eastern Bluebird are year-round residents.The Laurel Hill Lake inside the management area is a 325-acre lake and has a picnic area, restrooms, grills, vending machines, and a primitive camping area. The fishing facilities include a "youth-only" fishing area located near the office slash concession building. (Youths 16 and under may fish in this area) Other fishing facilities include boat launching ramps, a fishing pier, boat rentals, and fish attractors. Watch for the Laurel Hill Lake Sign near milepost 372.7.
Trail of Tears Bell Route
ohn Bell led one detachment from Cherokee Agency at Charleston, Tennessee, westward across the southern part of Tennessee to Memphis and then to Indian Territory. This route is now Highway 64 and crosses the Natchez Trace Parkway here at milepost 370.His party consisted of about 650-700 Cherokee who supported the removal treaty and opposed John Ross. Bell’s detachment also differed from the Ross-allied parties in that it had a military escort. Lieutenant Edward Deas, who had earlier led a party by river, commanded the Bell’s detachment military escort. The Bell detachment took a more direct route than did the Ross-allied parties, and reached Indian Territory in January 1839.The Trail of Tears National Historic Trail commemorates the forced removal of Cherokee from their homelands; the paths that 17 Cherokee detachments followed westward; and the revival of the Cherokee Nation. The trail passes through 9 different states including Alabama and Tennessee. The sites on the trail, stretching 5,043 miles, form a journey of compassion and understanding.
Dogwood Mudhole
Dogwood Mudhole is located a mile to the south of the parkway. The Old Natchez Trace crossed a depression in the flat, dogwood covered ridge. After heavy rains it became almost impassable for wagons. Its name, "Dogwood Mudhole", recalls the ordeals of frontier travel. It shows too, how place names arising from local conditions of long ago are carried down through the years.National Park Service
Glenrock Branch
Glenrock Branch is a great place for a picnic. Sit by the stream and imagine yourself as a traveler of long ago. Caution: the boulders can be slippery. Please note that due to the terrain, the restrooms at this stop are often closed and out of order.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Sweetwater Branch
Sweetwater Branch is a place where you can connect with nature. The trail is 2500 feet up and back.The terrain along the northern Parkway differs from that further south. Here, the land is rocky. Erosion is at work. The combined efforts of the stream, rain, and plants form a powerful force. Bedrock is being reduced to boulders, and boulders to stone, gravel, and sand. The eroded bedrock is then washed downstream.In the flatlands along most of the Parkway, sediments carried downstream settle out and come to rest, forming a soft, silty bottom. But a glance at the rocky streambed of Sweetwater Branch provides a vivid lesson in erosive power and undercuts the notion of “solid rock.”What to look for: Interactions between plants, water, and rock Plants breaking down rocks The effects of erosion by water Running water gradually wears away small particles of rock, shrinking and smoothing the larger rock left behind. Rock being reduced to progressively smaller particle sizes When combined with organic matter, the smallest rock eventually become soil.Where Rock and Water MeetThe interplay of rock and water shapes the landscape around you. Close your eyes. Listen. Sniff the air. Even without seeing, you can tell this place differs from others along the Parkway. The difference is rock – exposed beds of limestone and sandstone that effect how the forest looks, sounds, even smells. In the flatlands further south, you do not hear the rush and splash of a cascading stream that breaks down the rock. The rushing creek rounds off edges, tumbles boulders downstream, erodes them down to stone, gravel, sand-grain sized, and eventually to soil. While areas to the south have been shaped by deposited material, this area is being shaped by erosion.Silent StonemasonsWorking their way into cracks and crevices, roots help break down the rocky terrain. A plant can be an irresistible force. Roots from trees or walking ferns probe into cracks or fractures in the rock. In time as they grow, they wedge rocks apart or cause pieces to break off. Aided by the repeated freezing and thawing of water, the slow, silent, relentless power of growth can reduce rock to rubble.Rock Today, Soil TomorrowRock breaks down into soil, and the kind of soil it forms affects what grows. Soil consists of tiny particles of rock mixed with decaying matter from plants and animals. Different kinds of rock form different kinds of soil.The soil found here results largely from the breakdown of limestone, which has alkaline properties, like baking soda. Alkaline soil reacts chemically with acid from rain and neutralizes it. Hardwood trees (rather than pines) favor this kind of soil, so the rock helps determine what kinds of plants grow here.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Meriwether Lewis Story
“His courage was undaunted; His firmness and perseverance yielded to nothing but impossibilities; a rigid disciplinarian, yet tender as a father of those committed to his charge; honest, disinterested, liberal, with a sound understanding and a scrupulous fidelity to truth.” —Thomas JeffersonFrom a young child in Virginia to Governor of the Upper Louisiana Territory, Meriwether Lewis led a life full of challenges and opportunities. The discipline of the military and his formal education prepared him to work for President Thomas Jefferson as his personal secretary. He had the initiative to lead an expedition into unknown territory, and was rewarded with the honors that came along with the risk. Upon completion of the expedition, he was appointed Governor of the Upper Louisiana Territory. Though his life ended early along the Natchez Trace, he played an integral role in shaping the American West.Early LifeBorn August 18, 1774, near Charlottesville, Virginia, Meriwether Lewis began a life of adventure. As the second child of William and Lucy Lewis, he encountered many challenges during his youth. After losing his father at a young age, his mother remarried, and the family moved to Georgia. The young, inquisitive Meriwether explored the countryside and showed an interest in natural history.Lewis chose to return to Albemarle County, Virginia to obtain his formal education and learn how to manage the family plantation. He began his service to his country by enlisting in the military and joining the forces seeking to put a stop to the Whiskey Rebellion. He served with William Clark, the commander of the Chosen Rifle Company of elite riflemen. Lewis quickly rose to the rank of Captain, but didn’t forget the bonds he formed.His formal education, leadership skills, and experiences made him the perfect choice to work side by side with President Thomas Jefferson as his personal secretary.A Leader EmergesPresident Jefferson was interested in sending an expedition to explore the land west of the Mississippi River. While working at the White House, Lewis proved that he was the perfect candidate to look for a commercial water route to the Pacific Ocean.Lewis had an opportunity to learn diplomacy firsthand while living and working in the White House. In preparation for this expedition, Jefferson arranged for Lewis to learn from the top botanists, physicians, and scientists of the time. He was responsible for gathering supplies and chose a co-captain to lead the expedition. William Clark was willing to take on the risks and honors that would come along with leading this journey.The Corps of Volunteers for Northwestern Discovery, today known as the Lewis and Clark Expedition, was a military expedition, and military values like respect, honor, and integrity were instrumental to the success of the expedition.The Adventure of a LifetimeThe primary purpose of the expedition was to find and map an all-water route to the Pacific Ocean. The 35 members of the expedition had multiple responsibilities. They were diplomats, sent to establish peaceful relationships with the Native American tribes they encountered. They were scientists, sent to document the plants, animals, rocks, and minerals that they found. They were navigators, using crude instruments to make accurate maps of the route.Imagine a group of men leaving St. Louis, traveling across the continent into unknown territory. They fought the current of the Missouri River in the summer heat, crossed the Bitterroot Mountains in the bitter cold. Their boats needed to be portaged around waterfalls and new canoes needed to be dug out by hand. Members of the expedition dealt with constant physical challenges, including frequent malnutrition, swarms of mosquitoes, and biting fleas that made even the simplest task more difficult. After a long day of traveling the captains and sergeants were responsible for documenting the daily events in their journals.There were times when Lewis was a very diligent writer, and other times when he did not write at all. What could have prevented him from documenting each day of the trip? Did it get too tedious, or was there another reason for not writing? Modern historians can only guess why Lewis left gaps in the expedition journals.From Explorer to GovernorAfter completing nearly 8,000 miles by boat, horseback, and on foot, the members of the expedition returned to St. Louis in September of 1806 without ever finding the all-water route to the Pacific Ocean. However, they documented and described for science 122 animal species and 178 plant species. They came in contact with about 50 American Indian tribes. A map was created, and many years later, journals were published.President Jefferson rewarded Lewis by appointing him Governor of the Upper Louisiana Territory.When Lewis arrived in St. Louis in March of 1808, he encountered new challenges. Lewis was now in charge of the land he recently had the opportunity to explore. There was tension between Lewis and the Secretary of the Louisiana Territory, Frederick Bates. They had different political views, and different opinions on policy.In 1809, the new Madison administration imposed a stricter financial approval process on territorial governors. Payment vouchers approved under Jefferson were largely denied by the new administration. The administration denied several of Lewis’ bills, leaving him personally liable for their payment. Facing dishonor and personal bankruptcy, Lewis started on a trip to Washington, D.C., to resolve the issues.Lewis’ Last JourneyIn September of 1809, Lewis began his journey to Washington, D.C., to document and defend his spending of government funds, publish the expedition journals, and meet with former President Thomas Jefferson. While traveling, he wrote his will, leaving his possessions to his mother Lucy Marks.At Fort Pickering, near modern day Memphis, Tennessee, Lewis and his traveling companions met with James Neelly, the Chickasaw agent who would escort them through Chickasaw territory. He then traveled through the remote wilderness along the Natchez Trace north to Grinder’s Stand, an inn run by the Grinder family. Mrs. Grinder prepared a meal that evening, and made up a room for Lewis.Later that evening gunshots were heard, and Lewis was found with two gunshot wounds: one to the head, and one to the chest. Lewis’s life ended on the morning of October 11, 1809 at the age of 35. Many who knew Lewis at the time of his death believed he had taken his own life. Recorded circumstances of his death indicate the probability of suicide; however, some accounts dated 1848 and later suggest Lewis may have been murdered.
Wayne County Welcome Center
There are many wonderful city or county run welcome centers up and down the Natchez Trace Parkway that help visitors explore the park and communities nearby. One of those is the Wayne County Welcome Center in Collinwood, TN just off the Natchez Trace at milepost 355.Open everyday 9am to 5pm. For more details, call 931-724-4337.
McGlamery Stand
In frontier language, a stand was an inn or trading post--sometimes both--usually located on a well traveled route. Such a place was established on the Old Natchez Trace, near here, in 1849 by John McGlamery. Although the stand did not outlast the Civil War, the name did. The nearby village is still known as McGlamery Stand. This stand was established more than three decades after the height of travel on the Natchez Trace and was in operation for about 12 years before closing at the beginning of the Civil War.Unfortunately there are no remnants of McGlamery Stand visible at the site.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Sunken Trace
This early early interstate road building venture produced a snake infested, mosquito beset, American Indian traveled forest path. Lamented by the pious, cussed by the impious, it tried everyone's strength and patience.When the trail became so water logged that wagons could not be pulled through, travelers cut new paths through the nearby woods as a detour.At this location you can see three different detours made to avoid mud into which travelers sank, making progress slow, dangerous or even impossible.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Holly Picnic Area
Stop by for a picnic in the shade.
Cypress Creek Picnic
Cypress Creek picnic area is located on a wide rocky stream.
Alabama Tennessee State Line
In 1663 King Charles II of England granted the colony of Carolina all land between 31 and 36 degrees north latitude from the Atlantic Ocean west in a direct line as far as the South Seas. The separation of North and South Carolina fixed the boundary between them at 35 degrees in 1735. North Carolina's release of land claims west of the Appalachian Mountains permitted establishment of the state of Tennessee with the same southern boundary. John Coffee, one of Andrew Jackson's generals at the Battle of New Orleans, supervised the surveys of the line between 1817 and 1822.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Wichahpi Commemorative Stone Wall
In the late 1830's, a young teenage Yuchi girl was living near the Singing (Tennessee) River. Unfortunately, this was also during the Trail of Tears, a dark time in American history when Native Americans were forcibly removed from the Eastern portion of the United States and moved west. This young girl, along with her sister, were discovered by Army personnel and forced to walk to Oklahoma. She listened for singing waters in her new surroundings and found none. Convinced she would die if she stayed, she escaped and spent five years walking back to Alabama. The journey was extremely difficult with many trials and tribulations along the way, however she returned to her singing river.In the 1980's, Tom Hendrix, her great great grandson, visited the Yuchi people and had her journals translated. He had heard her stories many times and after the trip vowed to honor the great Native American woman. A wall of stones was going to be the memorial and over 30 years later, the monument is truly something to behold. It is the largest un-mortared rock wall in the United States and the largest memorial to a Native American woman. Each stone represents one step of her journey. Also, the shape, height, and width of the wall changes to represent the various obstacles she encountered. There are stones from over 120 countries that come in every size, shape, texture and unique geologic features you can imagine.A trip to Tom's Wall is emotional, inspiring and you will leave touched by the dedication of one man to honor his ancestors.Open Daily
Ole Hickory
Rock Spring
Rock Spring - a nature trail offers you an opportunity to explore a small natural spring as it bubbles forth from the ground. Small fish dart about in the deep pools created as the stream wanders through the rich bottomland soil and limestone rock. Vegetation and trees change as you move through an abandoned field past the stream into a rocky hillside. After completing the 20 minute walk you may decide to pull off your shoes and dangle your feet in the swift cool water.The trails and stepping stones in the area lead you across Colbert Creek past Rock Spring and through the woodlands. Since 1977 numerous beaver dams have been built then abandoned by the beaver or destroyed by high water. Walk the trails and enjoy a changing environment of this once free flowing spring-fed stream.Hummingbirds - Tiny Jewels of the Air: Few birds are as distinctive and charismatic as hummingbirds. From their iridescent plumage to their incredible aerial antics, hummingbirds are an irresistible attraction at Rock Spring. Each fall, hundreds of Ruby throated hummingbirds pass this way to feast on the nectar of the abundant jewelweed and other wildflowers.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Trail of Tears Water Route Overlook
Official trail of tears routes crossed the Old Trace in several places. There is no known documentation of exactly how the Old Trace was used to move tribes to access points. Since the Old Trace was a major travel corridor, it likely was the last trail people walked before departing on the major removal routes.What was the Trail of TearsIn May 1838, Federal troops and state militias began to gather the Cherokee people into stockades. Despite warnings to troops to treat kindly, the experience proved harrowing. Families were separated only given moments to collect cherished possessions. White looters followed, ransacking homesteads as Cherokee were led away.Three groups left in the summer, traveling by rail, boat, and wagon. One group, traveling overland in Arkansas, suffered three to five deaths each day due to illness and drought.Fifteen thousand captives still awaited removal. Crowding, poor sanitation, and drought made them miserable. Many died. The Cherokee asked to postpone removal until the fall and to voluntarily remove themselves. The delay was granted, provided they remained in internment camps.By November, 13 groups of 1,000 each had trudged 800 miles overland to the west. Heavy autumn rains and hundreds of wagons on the muddy route made roads difficult if not impassable; little grazing and game could be found to supplement meager rations. Two-thirds of the ill-equipped Cherokee were trapped between the ice-bound Ohio and Mississippi Rivers at times during January. Some drank stagnant water and succumbed to disease.By March 1839, all survivors had arrived in the west. No one knows how many died throughout the ordeal, but the trip was especially hard on infants, children, and the elderly. Missionary doctor Elizur Butler, who accompanied the Cherokee, estimated that over 4,000 died—nearly a fifth of the Cherokee people.Trail of Tears National Historic TrailThe Trail of Tears National Historic Trail commemorates the forced removal of Cherokee from their homelands; the paths that 17 Cherokee detachments followed westward; and the revival of the Cherokee Nation. The trail passes through 9 different states including Alabama and Tennessee. The sites on the trail, stretching 5,043 miles, form a journey of compassion and understanding.Three detachments of Cherokee, totaling about 2,800 people, traveled by river to Indian Territory. The first of these groups led by Lieutenant Edward Deas left on June 6, 1838, by steamboat and barge from Ross Landing, present-day Chattanooga, Tennessee. They followed the Tennessee River, Ohio River, Mississippi River, and Arkansas River and arrived near Fort Coffee on June 19, 1838.The second detachment, led by Lt. Robert H.K. Whiteley, left in mid-June and arrived two months later near Stilwell, Oklahoma.The final detachment, led by John Drew, left in the late fall and arrived in Indian Territory the following March.In March of 2000, Jack Baker described the Trail of Tears based on stories that had been passed down to him.“I'm Jack Baker, I’m a member of the Cherokee Nation.” “Through the early 1800s, there was a lot of pressure brought to bear on the Cherokees to give up their lands in the East and remove to the West. But since that was our ancestral homes, we did not want to give them up... …May 23, 1838, General Scott and his troops began the roundup of the Cherokees. They literally went into the homes and forced the people out, allowing them to take whatever they could carry with them and that was it, and herded them into the concentration camps and then later they were moved to certain points to be removed to the West. One was on the Tennessee River.”[Male narrator] In June of 1838, Missionary Reverend Daniel Sabine Butrick wrote about the removal: [Description of Cherokee removal read by a male narrator] “There was, we understand, a flat bottom boat, 100 feet long, 20 feet wide, two stories high, fastened to an old steamboat. This was so filled that the timbers began to crack and give way, the boat itself was on the point of sinking. Some of the poor inmates were of course taken out, while this boat was lashed to the steamboat, and some other small boats were brought to take in those who had been recalled. Twelve hundred, it is said, were hurried off in this manner at one time. Who would think of crowding men, women, and children, sick and well, into a boat together, with little, if any more room or accommodations than would be allowed to swine taken to market?”
Colbert Ferry Stand Site
George Colbert lived atop this ridge overlooking the Tennessee River. As one of the many inns that dotted the Trace between Nashville and Natchez, it provided travelers with food and lodging. With a Scottish father and Chickasaw mother, George Colbert used his bilingual abilities and knowledge of both cultures to build a network of enterprises. As a Chickasaw, he gained the right, by treaty, to operate a ferry across the Tennessee River from 1800 to 1819. Colbert and his family were one of many slaveholding planters that emerged among the Chickasaw during this time period. Not only did he operate his ferry and stand, he also operated a large planation nearby that depended on the labor of 150 enslaved African American. At this site you can take a short walk up to the ridge where the home once sat. An additional 20-minute stroll will take you along the Old Trace to the bluff overlook of the river. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Birds on the Parkway
“Alright folks, as we keep rolling along the Trace, let me tell you — if you like birds, or even just think you might like birds, you’re in one of the best places in the Southeast to give it a try. The Natchez Trace Parkway is basically a 444-mile-long buffet of habitats, and the birds take full advantage of it. We’ve confirmed 134 species out here… and honestly, on a good day it feels like all of them show up at once.Now if you’re near water — places like the Ross Barnett Reservoir, the Tenn-Tom Waterway, or Colbert Ferry — keep your eyes on the shoreline. That’s where you’ll spot the big waders: Great Blue Herons stalking like statues, Great Egrets glowing white against the reeds, and those Double-crested Cormorants drying their wings like they’re airing out laundry.If you’re more of a songbird person, some of the forest trails are just about unbeatable. Rocky Springs, Jeff Busby, Witch Dance, Donivan Slough, Meriwether Lewis… step into any of those and the woods start singing back at you. Cardinals, Cedar Waxwings, Scarlet Tanagers — bright flashes of color moving through the trees like Christmas ornaments that learned how to fly.And listen closely while we’re driving — that hollow tapping you might hear is a woodpecker or a sapsucker hunting for dinner.Now for the raptor lovers, keep looking up! Big skies at Chickasaw Village, Pharr Mounds, Water Valley Overlook, and Birdsong Hollow make it easy to catch sight of a Bald Eagle cruising by, or a Red-tailed Hawk hanging in the wind. Sometimes you’ll see Mississippi Kites or American Kestrels patrolling the edges of the fields.Speaking of fields, check out the grasslands as we pass through — that flash of electric blue might just be an Indigo Bunting. And if you hear something calling “whip-poor-WILL!” on repeat… well, that’s exactly who it is. Northern Bobwhite might whistle back at you with their friendly “bob-WHITE!”One of the biggest bird spectacles along the entire Trace happens every fall at Rock Spring. Hundreds of people come out just to watch Ruby-throated Hummingbirds tank up on jewelweed nectar before they head off to Central America. It’s like a tiny airport packed with green, buzzing jewels.And honestly, you don’t even have to leave the road to see birds around here. Wild turkeys, Canada geese, vultures, hawks — they all show up right along the Parkway. Just remember: enjoy the view, but drive carefully. We want both you and the birds to stick around for a long time.So whether you brought binoculars or you're just looking out the window, you’re traveling through one of the richest bird habitats in the country. Keep your eyes open — you never know who’ll land next.”
Buzzard Roost Spring
Near the bubbling waters of Buzzard Roost Spring, Levi Colbert (Itawamba Minko, "Bench Chief") built one of the many inns, called stands, along the Natchez Trace. Trace travelers no doubt talked about Levi's stand. It was nicer than most, and offered respite from the miles of footsteps that defined a Trace journey. Inns, or stands, provided occasional shelter for travelers along the Natchez Trace from the 1790s to the 1840s. These stands offered food to eat and food for thought: local news, information, and ideas. The ever-changing mix of diverse people – whites, American Indians, African Americans – interacted at the stands on a regular basis.It was Colbert's negotiating and language skills that sustained him as a tribal leader. Bilingual, with a Scottish father and Chickasaw Mother, he took advantage of the opportunities in both cultures. Across several decades, Colbert sat among the Chickasaw during treaty talks. Using his knowledge of both white and Chickasaw society, he protected both the Chickasaw homeland and his own interests. A dogged negotiator, at the time of his death in 1834, Colbert was trying to amend an 1832 treaty to gain better terms his the Chickasaw people.Unfortunately there are no remnants of Levi Colbert's stand visible at the site except for where the spring comes out of the ground. A short trail leads to the Buzzard Roost Spring where it is easy to picture how precious the small spring was to trace travelers. A short decent on steep steps will reveal a quiet haven set in a cool and shady glen, the perfect retreat for a hot summer day. Why were the stands along the Natchez Trace?The need for stands appeared when the US government wanted to improve the Natchez Trace into a post road to deliver mail from Nashville, TN to Natchez, MS. In 1800 most of the Natchez Trace ran through Choctaw and Chickasaw lands. A limited number of homesteads offered provisions on Chickasaw land.As trade and travel increased down the Mississippi River so did stands along the Natchez Trace. Many of these stands were owned by frontiersmen and their American Indian wives. While the United States did not recognize women’s rights to own land many American Indian nations-including the Chickasaw and Choctaw-did. Tribes preferred to manage their own businesses on tribal land. During this time stands generally bore the last name of the owners: Brashears Stand, for example.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Freedom Hill
The 1100 foot hike up to the overlook might leave your huffing and puffing. The incline is a bit steep. Dogwoods are often abundant in mid-March to mid-April. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Bear Creek Picnic Area
Bear Creek Picnic Area is a great place to pull off the main road to sit in the shade and listen to the gentle rhythms of the flowing water. The site is shaded and on the creek. There are seven well spaced tables, four with grills.If you decide at the last minute you want to have a picnic, and you are not carrying food, you might be able to find something to satisfy your hunger at about a 15-minute drive from the picnic area. Cherokee, Alabama to the north (population 1038) and Tishomingo, Mississippi (population 339) to the south, have a few food resources. The picnic area has no restrooms and the closest Parkway facilities are to the north at Colbert Ferry milepost 327.Bear Creek is within what is the homeland of the Chickasaw people. The Cherokee lived near-by to the east. Bear Creek is a large creek that flows from Tishomingo County, Mississippi, northward to the Tennessee River and has likely been used as a travel route for centuries. The creek teams with mussels, fish and other aquatic species, although the fauna composition has lost diversity in the lower 17 miles of the creek impounded by Pickwick Dam.After heavy rains, the site is frequently closed due to flooding. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Bear Creek Mound
This square, flat-topped mound was built in several stages for ceremonial or elite residential use sometime between 1100 and 1300 A.D., during the Mississippian period. Burned daub (mud plaster used in building construction) found on the mound during archeological excavation indicates the former presence of a temple or chief's house. A small, contemporaneous habitation area is located to the south and east of the mound. When acquired by the National Park Service the mound had been greatly reduced in height by plowing. Following excavation in 1965, the mound was restored to its estimated original dimensions of about eight feet high by 85 feet across the base.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Cave Spring
Cave Spring is a short paved trail down stairs to the mouth of the cave. The cave cannot be entered. A viewpoint is provided for those who cannot negotiate the steps. The Paleo hunters who used the Bear Creek Mound site probably used this water source. A collapsed underground limestone cavern formed this cave. A short easy paved trail takes you to its mouth. Although this was an important water source for thousands of years, for safety reasons the NPS guards against drinking this water or entering the cave.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Tishomingo State Park
Located in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Tishomingo State Park is steeped in history and scenic beauty. Archaeological excavations confirm the presence of Paleo Indians in the area now encompassed by the park as early as 7000 B.C.! The park takes its name from the leader of the Chickasaw nation, Chief Tishomingo. The famous Natchez Trace Parkway, the premier highway of the early 1800s and a modern scenic parkway, runs directly through the park. Today's visitors to Tishomingo State Park discover the same timeless natural beauty that enchanted the Indians centuries ago. Tishomingo offers a unique landscape of massive rock formations and fern-filled crevices found nowhere else in Mississippi. Massive boulders blanketed in moss dot the hillsides, and colorful wildflowers border trails once walked by Native Americans.
Jamie Whitten Site MP 293.5
Soon we'll be coming up on the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway and the Bay Springs Lake Recreation Site near milepost 293.5. This is a highlight of the parkway. It is the home of "the Jamie Whitten Lock n Dam" and The Jamie Whitten Historical Center Complex, designed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Mobile District. The complex includes an interesting museum with exhibits created by several Federal agencies involved in the economic development of Mississippi’s beautiful hill country. Several of the exhibits are multimedia displays and many illustrate the rich history and heritage of this area. The historical center also includes a modern auditorium and a large covered terrace overlooking the beautiful waterway below. There is a gift shop area featuring regional books and other unique gift items. In addition to the museum there are picnic pavilions, nature trails, a boat ramp, paved volleyball and basketball courts, camping areas, and RV Pads. There is no cost to visit this impressive museum. Watch for the Bay Springs Lake sign near milepost 293.5.
Pharr Mounds
This site complex consists of eight burial mounds built during the Middle Woodland period, between 1 and 200 A.D. Ranging in height from two to 18 feet, the mounds are distributed over an area of about 85 acres. They comprise one of the largest Middle Woodland ceremonial sites in the southeastern United States. Four of the mounds were excavated in 1966 by the National Park Service. The mounds covered various internal features, including fire pits and low, clay platforms. Cremated and unburned human remains were found in and near these features, as were various ceremonial artifacts, including copper spools and other copper objects, decorated ceramic vessels, lumps of galena (shiny lead ore), a sheet of mica, and a greenstone platform pipe. The copper, galena, mica and greenstone did not originate in Mississippi; they were imported long distances through extensive trade networks. Such ritually significant nonlocal items typify the Middle Woodland period.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Donivan Slough
Mississippi mud is a real thing. Planters have struggled with it for centuries. This area is a natural swampy depression called a slough (pronounced slue). It is adjacent to an agricultural field and helps to drain off excess water. It appears that the construction of a deeper trough (pronounced troff, even though it looks like slough), helped drain even more water from the fields, allowing farmers to avoid stuck horses, plows, or tractors. Donivan Slough Nature Trail provides an up-close view of a functioning slough that still drains water from the soggy fields next to the trail.The nature trail takes you on a 1600-foot easy walk through a hardwood forest. There is a stairway from the parking lot to the slough trail. Dogs on leash are allowed on the trail. Insect repellent is always advised during the warmer months. The plant life is representative of water loving flora.United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Twentymile Bottom Overlook
"I have this day swam my horse 5 times, bridged one creek, forded several others, besides the swamp we had to wade through. At night we had a shower of rain." Reverend John Johnson, 1812This overlook takes in a wide view of a rich agricultural bottom area. Use your imagination to replace some of the fields with forests and swamps. Imagine what it would be like to traverse the area in 1812, on a horse. It sounds like the reverend had a soggy time.Water was always a critical survival factor for early travelers. In the west, it was frequently lack of water. In the southeast, it was sometimes too much water. This area averages about 55 inches of rain per year, but yearly totals of rainforest proportion, over 80 inches, have been recorded.United States Department of the Interior, National Park ServiceTake a moment and contemplate being exposed to so much water during all seasons of the year, over weeks or months with no indoor shelter. This was the plight of early travelers on the Old Trace. Please note that this is not a circular drive and large RVs will have trouble negotiating the parking area.
Dogwood Valley
Dogwood Valley is full of dogwood trees. At the right time of year, with the right kind of weather, it is a magical trail with brilliant white blooms that guide your way along a 1600-foot long loop-trail into a valley. When do the dogwoods bloom? If the winter is warm, in early April. If it is a long cold winter they hold off until late April. Each year is different and even park rangers cannot predict exactly when they will be at peak bloom. Dogs on leash are welcome on this short trail. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Confederate Gravesites, MP 269.4
During the Civil War, several Confederate soldiers died at this place along the Old Trace. No one is sure how they died, and time erased their names from their original headstones. Who were they? Tradition holds that they were Confederate soldiers who marched and camped along the Old Trace. A somewhat steep 700' paved walkway will lead you to a short original section of the Old Trace and to the thirteen modern grave markers where you can contemplate what it may have been like for these soldiers when they gave their all.
Parkway Visitor Center, Milepost 266
The Parkway Visitor Center is just north of Tupelo, Mississippi. A ranger is on duty to answer questions and provide information and brochures. Ask and we will be glad to show you our movie. Other videos are available at https://www.nps.gov/natr/learn/photosmultimedia/videos.htm. The bookstore is open from 9am-4:15pm.
Old Town Overlook
Old Town Overlook presents a medley of possibilities to enjoy. Will it be history, nature, agriculture, recreation? You can experience them all at this overlook that combines everything the Natchez Trace Parkway is about. Folks interested in nature and recreation can fish in the pond, watch turtles pile up and warm their shells in the sun, or imagine back more than 11,000 years ago and picture mastodons ambling to the creek.Walkers can stretch their legs on a short jaunt into the woods or down to Town Creek. Hikers can access the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail and walk a little more than 2 miles south to the Chickasaw Village Site, or head northward for little less than two miles to the Beech Springs Trailhead. Over time, people have used this area in many ways. The human history of Old Town started with American Indians who settled here. The name Old Town was what the English called a large established Chickasaw village. Old Town was not always a peaceful bottomland. The 1914 DAR marker indicates that the Battle of Ackia took place near here, which is debatable, but we know that during the Civil War's Battle of Tupelo, on July 15, 1864, an intense battle was fought in the bottoms at the creek. Standing on the north side of the overlook, there are views of both natural and cultivated land protected by the Natchez Trace Parkway. The agricultural land is leased and planted with traditional crops to help conserve the rural beauty of the Parkway. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service
Chickasaw Village Site
A nature trail, horse trails, and the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail (Blackland Prairie Section) all pass through the Chickasaw Village Site. Zoom around to find your trail."Welcome to our village. This is a place that we think of as our home. This is our community. This is the place where we lived. It is not only a place where we lived, it is a place where we took care of each other. In our community, if one person is hungry, everybody is hungry, and the hunters would go out and they would hunt, and they would bring animals back and everybody would eat..."If somebody is cold, or somebody doesn't have any clothing, the hunters would bring back those animals and the people would make clothing... "If we were to have visitors that came from long distances, say from the area now known as North or South Carolina...They would find people within this village who were of the same clan. They would have a place to stay for the night. They would have a place to eat, and they would have entertainment. They could talk about the news of what was happening in their village." LaDonna Brown, Chickasaw Nation anthropologist. This was once the location of a large Chickasaw Village. The sizes and shapes of their homes are marked on the ground. Interpretive signs share the site history which is located on a portion of Black Belt Prairie. Visit the Chickasaw Village site and imagine what it would have been like to live here hundreds of years ago.Today, Chickasaw Village Site is a great location to see wildflowers and do some bird watching, as well as learn about Chickasaw culture. The Blackland Prairie section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail runs through Chickasaw Village. There are also two short foot trail loops,and a horse trail loop.
Birthplace of Elvis Presley
Black Belt Overlook
This overlook features a scenic view of a remnant of the Black Belt Prairie which was part of the vast tall grass Blackland Prairie Region. The 350,000-acre fertile Black Belt Prairie has been interrupted by human development leaving most of the remaining natural sections at only 10-20 acres. The Natchez Trace Parkway is actively protecting and restoring portions of prairie, returning it to a natural grassland that sustains native flowering plants and wildlife. The calcareous soil underlying the prairie was formed when the ocean receded after eons of depositing the remains of calcium rich shells. The resulting rich soil supported grasses like bluestems, switchgrass, Indian grass, and others. The prairie contained more than grasses. A diverse array of wildflowers, forbs, and legumes, oak forests, short leaf pines, glades and wetlands were common in certain areas depending upon the terrain.Long ago bison could be found on this prairie along with other common wildlife that still exist here in reduced numbers. Over time, the soil that once supported the lush prairie flora eventually supported the needs of planters who moved into the area. In an effort to sustain their families, the prairie was turned into farmland. Take a moment, stop and listen. Can you hear the call of the common prairie bird, the bob-white quail? Use your imagination to transport yourself back in time and listen for the bellow of a bull bison.
Chickasaw Council House
Near milepost 251.1, is a site called the Chickasaw Council House. The sign at this site reads as follows, Westerly on the Natchez Trace stood an Indian village, called Pontatock, with its council house, which in the 1820s became the capital of the Chickasaw Nation. The chiefs and the head men met there to sign treaties or to establish tribal laws and policies. Each summer 2,000 or 3,000 Indians camped nearby to receive an annual payment for lands they had sold to our Federal government. After the treaty of 1832, the last land was surrendered. The council house disappeared but its memory remains here in the names of a Mississippi county and town that went west with the Chickasaw as a county and village in Oklahoma. Watch for milepost 251.1.
Tockshish
Named for a Chickasaw word meaning "tree root," Tockshish was a community of American Indians and American settlers along the Natchez Trace. John McIntosh, British agent to the Choctaws, first settled there before 1770.In 1801, McIntosh's settlement was designated as the second post office between Nashville, Tennessee and Natchez, Mississippi. It became a relay station where postriders exchanged weary horses for fresh ones. The post office is now gone; only the name recalls the time when hoof-beats marked the arrival of mail bags that had left Nashville bound for Natchez.
Davis Lake MP 243.1
Owl Creek Mounds, protected by the U.S. Forest Service, is an important Native American ceremonial site. The mounds were built and used by farming people belonging to the Mississippian culture, A.D. 1000 TO 1500. The archaeological site includes two large mounds, walkways, and interpretive panels.One more mile down the road is the Davis Lake recreational area. This 200-acre lake offers Camping, picnicking, swimming, fishing, and boating opportunities. Facilities include 26 camping sites with water and electric hookups, 32 picnic sites with tables and grills, one group shelter, 1 boat ramp, 16 land piers, and 3 wooden piers for fishing, and swimming. There are 2 toilet facilities with showers and a dump station. The Davis Lake Recreation Area is open year-round unless weather conditions require the area to be closed. Davis Lake is a fee area. The fee station is located just beyond the entrance gate. The last time that I was out there, it cost 5 dollars per vehicle to spend the day on the lake, and 20 dollars to camp for one night. There is a camp host on duty, Nonetheless, you should make sure that you have the correct currency before arriving at the recreation area. Watch for signs near milepost 2 43.1.
Chickasaw Agency
The United States agents to the Chickasaws lived from 1802 to 1825 west of here on the Old Natchez Trace.That Americans could peacefully travel the road through Indian lands was due in large measure to the agents. Their efforts to preserve harmony included such thankless tasks as collecting debts, recovering stolen horses, removing trespassers, and capturing fugitives.Winters were lonely, but spring and summer brought thousands of “Kaintucks” on the long journey from Natchez to their Ohio Valley homes. Many expected the agency to supply medicine or food or just a good night's rest.Historians believe this is the area that Meriwether Lewis entered onto the Natchez Trace Parkway in 1809. Lewis was traveling from Chickasaw Bluffs, modern-day Memphis, with US Indian Agent James Neelly. Neelly was the Indian Agent with the Chickasaw people. Neelly agreed to go with Lewis over the Natchez Trace to Nashville Tennessee.
Witch Dance
The very name conjures visions of eerie midnights, swirling black capes and brooms stacked against a nearby tree. The old folks say the witches gathered here to dance and wherever their feet touched the ground the grass withered and died never to grow again. Impossible? Maybe so, but look around. Look for a hidden spot where no grass grows.
Bynum Mounds, Milepost 232.4
Bynum Mounds is the oldest mound site along Natchez Trace Parkway. These mounds were created by American Indians in what was known as the Middle Woodland Period between 100 BCE-100 CE. The mounds range in height from 5-feet to 14-feet.Originally, there were six mounds at this site. However, in the 1940's five of them were excavated by National Park Service archeologists. The two largest mounds were rebuilt. These mounds acted as epicenters for ceremonial and religious activities for the American Indians who built them. Exotic trade goods and other artifacts were uncovered in the excavations which gives evidence to a vast and varying trade network throughout the southeast.Today, the spirit of Bynum Mounds remains strong. Over a span of 2,000 years, American Indian people have felt a powerful bond with this culturally significant site. Descendants of the mound builders, like the Chickasaw, still return here to their homeland to reconnect with their culture and ancestors.A paved accessible, 200-foot path loops around the site past the mounds, next to the forest, and through the interpretive shelter.National Park Service
Chickasaw People
Old Trace, Milepost 221.4
Preserved here is portion of a nearly 200 year old road, the Old Natchez Trace. Maintaining this 500 mile long wilderness road in the early 1800s was a difficult if not hopeless task. As you look down the sunken trench, note the large trees growing on the edge of the 10 foot wide strip we clear today. These trees are mute testimony to the endless struggle between man to alter and change and nature to reclaim, restore and heal.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Line Creek
Unlike modern nations, Indian nations seldom recognized clear, exact boundaries to their lands. However, Chickasaw and Choctaw Indians came to accept as a dividing line the stream that flowed in this valley. It remained the boundary until both tribes moved to Oklahoma in the 1830s. Although the stream's course has been changed somewhat by a modern drainage canal, it is still called Line Creek. Near here Noah Wall and his Choctaw wife had a stand where food and shelter were provided.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Indian Women
Pigeon Roost
Pigeon Roost Creek is a reminder of the millions of migrating passenger pigeons that once roosted in trees in this area. The species has been completely destroyed. One mile east where the Natchez Trace crossed the creek Nathaniel Folsom of New England and his Choctaw wife had a trading post before 1790. Their son, David, later operated it and accommodated travelers. When the Reverend Thomas Nixon stopped here in 1815, David's wife prepared suitable nourishment and would have no pay. David Folsom, strong supporter of Christianity and Indian education, was elected chief of the northeast district of the Choctaw Nation in 1826.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Ballard Creek
Ballard Creek is a quiet picnic area located about eight miles north of Jeff Busby Campground along the Parkway. Ballard Creek has a small parking lot with a very short looping trail that leads to a single picnic table. The picnic area is near a flowing creek and surrounded by forests, providing a peaceful place to rest, eat, and enjoy nature.
Jeff Busby Site
This shady area is a great place to have a picnic. Grill some grub, and have a picnic, then take a walk on the Little Mountain Trail. It's elevation is only 584 feet at the top, about 200 feet higher than the picnic area. Or you can drive there easily. The picnic area has 39 tables, three are accessible.
French Camp Historic Village
Construction of the Colonel James Drane house began in 1846 using a water powered saw. The foundation and framing are secured with wooden pegs and the ceiling with squared nails. Moved to this location in 1981, the house is now owned and operated by the French Camp Academy. You are invited to visit the Drane House. The information station is in the 1840 Huffman Log Cabin. A sorghum mill adjacent to the cabin operates during the fall sorghum season. Open Monday through Saturday 8:30 to 5 p.m. Restoration of the Colonel James Drane home, which is listed in the National Register of Historic Places has been funded with assistance of a matching grant-in-aid from the Department of the Interior National Park Service under the provisions of the Jobs Bill Program of 1983.Louis LeFleur first traded with the Choctaw Indians at a bluff now part of Jackson, Mississippi. About 1812, he established his stand 900 feet to the northeast on the Natchez Trace. Because of the storekeeper's nationality the area was often called "French Camp", a name retained by the present village. LeFleur married a Choctaw woman. Their famous son who changed his name to Greenwood Leflore, became a Choctaw chief and a Mississippi State Senator. For him are named the city of Greenwood and the county of Leflore.A stone memorial marks a stage of the Natchez Trace at French Camp. The first highway opened through the lower south by the treaty of Dancing Rabbit Creek in 1830 between the American government and the Choctaw Indians. The surrounding country became a part of the state of Mississippi. Here Andrew Jackson's Tennessee and Kentucky commands rested on their way to join him in his coast campaign in the War of 1812, during which second struggle for American Independence, Mississippi took a heroic part. Presented to the town of French Camp by the Mississippi Daughters of the American Revolution, November 10, 1915.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Bethel Mission
About 1/2 mile northwesterly, Bethel, meaning "house of God," was opened in 1822 as one of 13 Choctaw Mission stations. Indians, slaves and Squawmen labored hard during four weeks, frequently until 10 at night by the light of the moon or large fires, to clear the forest and erect the buildings. The missionaries who took the Gospel to the wilderness also taught farming, carpentry, weaving and housekeeping as well as reading, writing and arithmetic to Choctaw and half-breed children. In 1826, people moved from the Trace to new roads and Bethel was closed.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Choctaw Culture
The Choctaw people's ancestral homeland spanned from most of central and southern Mississippi, into parts of eastern Louisiana and parts of western Alabama. The Choctaw were fierce warriors, excellent farmers, and skilled traders.Agriculture was important to the Choctaw people. The Choctaw often grew great surpluses of corn and other crops to trade with other American Indian nations, and later Europeans and Americans, throughout their homeland and along the Natchez Trace.Sports have always played an important role in Choctaw culture. Stickball and chunky stone were used to imitate war, and in some instances, acted as an alternative to war. These games were often used to settle rivalries and disputes between different tribes and families. Stickball also created friendly competition amongst different clans and tribes.The Choctaw were fierce warriors, and during the early 1700s they became allies with European forces, often aiding in battles against other American Indian groups. This was not uncommon for tribes during the 1700s and 1800s. Alliances provided a measure of security to the tribes and established powerful trade connections. The French were one of the first European groups to ally with the Choctaw, and in the early 1700s their combined forces decimated the Natchez Indians, killing most of them, and forcing the rest to flee their homelands and join other tribes.RemovalAfter the United States became established in 1776, many American Indian tribes aided the American government through trade and warfare.With the influx of American colonizers settling in the Southern United States, American Indian peoples were soon displaced from their homelands, sometimes by treaties and political manipulation, and other times by force. In 1816, the Choctaw chiefs were persuaded to trade some of their homelands east of the Tombigbee River. By 1820, they were asked to give up even more of their lands. With this trade, many Choctaw left and accepted new land in Oklahoma and Arkansas. You can learn about the Choctaw Nation in Oklahoma by visiting their website.The changes did not stop there. In May of 1829, a southern congressman introduced the Indian Removal Act into Congress. It included tribes in the southeastern United States including the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Creek, Seminole and Choctaw Indian tribes. Hundreds of petitions flooded Washington D.C. claiming this act was immoral, destructive, and wrong. After heated debate, President Andrew Jackson and the US Congress passed the Indian Removal Act, forcing the Choctaw and other tribes, to relinquish their homelands completely and move westward. The act passed the House in May 1830, by only five votes.The Choctaw walked this long journey from Mississippi to Oklahoma, a harsh trek that killed many along the way. The first American Indian tribe to remove to Oklahoma, the Choctaw suffered greatly. Roughly 70,000 people were forced out of the region and at least 3,000 lost their lives on the march. This forced walk is now commemorated as the Trail of Tears.Some Choctaw Indians remained in Mississippi, and some returned years later. Today, the Mississippi Band of Choctaw Indians is located in Choctaw, Mississippi, near Philadelphia, approximately 25 miles east of the Parkway at milepost 160.
Hurricane Trail
Plants need water much as men need money. Some are satisfied with little, some cannot flourish unless they have a lot. The majority can live contentedly with medium amounts. From here a trail descends to the vegetation that thrives in the wet bottom land along Hurricane Creek. The path winds upward among plants growing in soil of medium dampness and on to the top of a dry hill before returning here. The differences in vegetation are due largely to the varying water content of the soil.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Kosciusko Information Center
There are many wonderful city or county run welcome centers up and down the Natchez Trace Parkway that help visitors explore the park and communities nearby. One is the Kosciusko Information Center in Kosciusko, MS, just off the Natchez Trace at milepost 160. The Kosciusko-Attala Information Center is named in honor of General Tadeusz Kosciuszko who was an outstanding Polish freedom fighter whose military genius and engineering skills played a vital role in the success of the American Revolutionary War. Kosciusko, Mississippi is the only US city named in his honor.Open everyday 9am to 5pm. For more details, call 662 -289-2981.
Holly Hill
The Holly Hill stop has a large picnic area and a restroom facility with beautiful views of the parkway and pasture fields.
Myrick Creek
Meet the beaver, a member of the rodent family that has adapted itself to work and live both on the land and in the water. Beavers are large, weighing up to sixty pounds in Mississippi. Squat and with a low center of gravity they are clumsy on land. The beaver has many special adaptations for life in the water. It is a powerful swimmer with webbed hind feet. The flat tail is a rudder. It also serves as a prop when he sits up and is often used to slap a danger signal. The chisel-like cutting teeth are strong, sharp, prominent and self-sharpening. Beavers can gnaw underwater without difficulty. Their lips seal out the water. Hearing is keen, sense of smell is acute, vision is supposedly excellent underwater, only fair on land. The beaver's nose and ears contains valves which close when the animal dives and open when its head appears out of water. They have a natural instinct for keeping busy. They can fell trees, float logs to desired places through canals dug for the purpose, build lodges and dens with underwater entrances and tunnels and build dams to form ponds. One such dam in Mississippi measured 1080 feet. The beaver's service to good conservation practice far outweighs the damage they do.Beavers usually pair in February and stay mated for life. Young beavers, called kits, are born in May, completely furred and with eyes open. The average litter is four. The diet of the beaver, mostly bark, changes with the seasons. Spring menu is sweet gum, pine and hophornbeam. Summer menu is willow, cottonwood and tender green plants. Fall menu is acorns, buttonbush, willow and giant cane. Winter menu is ash, elm and miscellaneous plants. Follow the nature trail to see beaver cut trees, dams and examples of beaver food supply.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Red Dog Road
The road, running to Canton, Mississippi was opened in 1834 and named for a Choctaw Indian, Ofahoma, or Red Dog. Like other Choctaw, he had accepted the ways of his palefaced neighbors and had become a farmer. Red Dog, an important chief, was one of the signers of the treaty of Dancing Rabbit in 1830, by which the tribe agreed to move to Oklahoma. Nearby is the community of Ofahoma which for many years had a U.S. Post Office.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Robinson Road
The road crossing the Parkway follows the Robinson Road which was built in 1821, nearly all of it passing through the country of the Choctaw Indians. It joined Jackson, Mississippi and Columbus, center of the settlements on the Tombecbee. There it connected with Andrew Jackson's Military Road through Florence, Alabama to Nashville. Designation of the Robinson Road as the mail route in 1822, drew much of the traffic from the northern Mississippi section of the Natchez Trace, which quickly lost importance. No longer was the Trace the only direct road through the wilderness from the east to the old southwest.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Northern terminus of the Yockanookany
The next site on the trace is the trailhead of the northern terminus of the Yockanookany Section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. This trailhead is near mile post 130.9 and is open to hikers only. From this trailhead, the southern terminus at West Florida Boundary is about 26 miles away. To access the trailhead from the parking area walk south from the parking area several hundred feet until you see the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail sign on your right.The Yockanookany section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail is the longest of the five developed trail sections at 26 miles. Eight miles run alongside the Ross R. Barnett Reservoir, and the other sixteen miles go through dense forests, seasonal streams and open pastureland.There is a lot to see on this stretch of trail; many sites are accessible via short side trails (you may have to cross the parkway). The trail parallels the parkway roadbed; use caution at all times, especially at bridge crossings, where you must walk along the Parkway road. Watch for mile post 130.9
Upper Choctaw Boundary
The line of trees crossing the Parkway immediately to your left, marked a section of the boundary accepted by the Choctaw Indians and the American Commission under Andrew Jackson in the treaty of Doaks Stand, October 20, 1820. You are on the Choctaw side of the boundary. The Choctaw reluctantly gave to the United States the land west of the line from White Oak Spring on the old Indian Path, northwardly to a black oak standing on the Natchez Road, about 40 poles eastwardly from Doaks fence marked "AJ" and blazed. The area surrendered by the Choctaw Nation amounted to some 5.5 million acres, about 1/3 of their land. Ten years later in 1830, the Choctaws were forced to give up all their lands. Other Indians were forced to do the same by 1834 thus clearing for white settlement all areas of the three states crossed by the Natchez Trace.Doaks Stand - About 1812 William Doak established his stand, or tavern, on the Natchez Trace which is five miles north of the Parkway at this point. The Treaty of Doaks Stand was signed there in 1820 because, "He conducted himself respectfully toward those who called at his house and made considerable improvement on the land." Doak was given sole right to purchase his land after it was opened for settlement. When the Robinson Road took traffic from the Natchez Trace, the stand was moved to the crossing of the Choctaw Boundary and the new road about 1/2 mile north of here.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Cypress Swamp, MP 122.0
Water tupelo and bald cypress trees can live in deep water for long periods. After taking root in summer when the swamp is nearly dry, the seedlings can stay alive in water deep enough to kill other plants. This trail leads to an abandoned river channel. As the channel fills with silt and vegetation, black willow, sycamore, red maple and other trees will gradually replace the bald cypress and tupelo. Don't hurry, the change will take several hundred years.
Reptiles
Highway 43 Intersection
We are coming up on the intersection of Highway 43 near milepost 1 14.9. There is an out-and-back two-mile section of Highway 43 that travels low and close to the water. There are places, where you can park your vehicle on the side of the road to get a great view of the reservoir and the wildlife on the water. This is a quick and short road trip well worth your time. I have attached a photo to this site to give you an example of what to expect.This is also the only staging area for horses on the Yockanookany Section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. There is ample room for parking trailers, and water is available for horses to drink at this trailhead. Riders can travel north 16 miles to the northern terminus at Yockanookany, or south seven miles to the southern terminus at the West Florida Boundary. Watch for the Highway 43 intersection near milepost 115.
West Florida Boundary
At the end of the French and Indian War in 1763, Great Britain gained control of the territory between the Appalachians and the Mississippi River except for the New Orleans area. The northern boundary of West Florida was first established at 31 degrees north latitude.It was soon determined that settlement was too restricted. In 1764, Great Britain moved the boundary north to 32 degrees, 28 minutes into the land of the Choctaws and Creeks.
Boyd Mounds
Most known burial mounds in Mississippi date to the Middle Woodland times (circa 100 B.C. to 400 A.D.). However, the six small burial mounds at the Boyd site were built much later, during the Late Woodland and Early Mississippian periods (circa 800 to 1100 A.D. ). One of these mounds, Mound 2, is situated in a clearing adjacent to the parking area and is accessible to visitors. Several of the mounds, including Mound 2, were excavated by the NationalPark Service in 1964. The elongated Mound 2 issome 110 feet long by 60 feet wide and four feet high. Excavation revealed that it is actually three mounds in one: initially, two mounds were built side by side, then both were covered with more earth to create a single oblong, finished mound. The remains of 41 individuals were found in Mound 2, but there were relatively few accompanying artifacts. Different pottery types found in separate areas of this compound mound indicate that it was constructed in two phases: the first episode during the Late Woodland period and the second, after a considerable length of time, during the Mississippian period.
Reservoir Overlook and Chiska Foka Trail
This 50 square mile reservoir is formed by an earth filled dam. It is administered by the Pearl River Valley Water Supply District, an agency of the State of Mississippi. Information concerning recreational facilities may be obtained at the marinas. Access from the Parkway is by way of state and county roads.Ross Barnett Reservoir (Pearl River) parallels the Parkway for eight miles.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Bill Waller Craft Center, MP 104.5
Brashear's Stand was located here. In 1806 the stand was advertised as "a house of entertainment in the wilderness."Two portions of the old wilderness road, the Old Natchez Trace, are preserved here. Nearly 500 miles long, it grew from Indian trails to a national road and communications link between the old southwest and the United States to the northeast.A short loop walk lets you see both sections of the Old Natchez Trace. A new trail and boardwalk connects the area to the nearby Mississippi Crafts Center. The Brashear's Stand site also has access to the paved Ridgeland Multi-Use Path.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Choctaw Agency
U.S. agents like Silas Dinsmoor lived among the Choctaw and represented their interests while implementing U.S. policy. His duties included surveying and preventing illegal settlement of Choctaw land. He also encouraged the Choctaw to be more dependent on modern farming practices. He was tasked to collect tribal debts owed to American companies and insure that the Choctaw were paid for land ceded to the U.S. The agency moved four times to stay within the shrinking boundaries of the Choctaw Nation. It was located here, along the Natchez Trace, from 1807 until just after the Treaty of Doak's Stand in 1820.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Polly
“Women lived, worked, and persevered along the Old Trace long before it became the Parkway we know today. They farmed this land, raised families in the wilderness, kept stands running for weary travelers, and later fought to preserve the Trace when it seemed destined to disappear. And today, women continue that work as rangers, historians, advocates, and caretakers of this landscape.One of the fiercest and most remarkable was Paulina ‘Polly’ Chamberlain — though around here, folks usually just say Polly Ferguson. Polly and her first husband, William Ferguson, bought Mount Locust back in 1784. It was a rugged world then, and the Trace was little more than a beaten path through the woods. Together they turned Mount Locust into a working farm and — just as importantly — an inn for travelers moving between Natchez and Nashville. That meant cooking, tending guests, and raising a family, all in a place where comfort was hard to come by.When William died in 1801, Polly didn’t fold. She ran the farm, raised her seven children, and kept the inn going — feeding, housing, and caring for travelers walking hundreds of miles back north after flatboating their goods to Natchez. A year later, she married James Chamberlain, but by the time he left in 1810, Polly already knew how to run the whole operation on her own.And run it she did. Polly was a landowner and a businesswoman at a time when very few women in the South could claim that role. Under her guidance, Mount Locust thrived. She managed labor, crops, finances, and the steady stream of guests who depended on her stand for safety and rest. She lived to the age of 80 — rare for that era — and was laid to rest in the Chamberlain family cemetery not far from the place she built with her own resolve.So as we roll down the Trace, remember: this road wasn’t shaped only by soldiers, boatmen, and politicians. It was shaped by women — determined, resilient, and absolutely essential to life along the Trace. Polly Chamberlain was just one, but her story stands for many.”
Osburn Stand
To improve communication to the Old Southwest, the Natchez Trace was declared a post road in 1800. Afterwards, with Choctaw permission, improvements to this section of the Old Trace began. In 1805, the Choctaw allowed inns, known as stands, to be built along the route to provide basic food and shelter to travelers. By 1811, Noble Osburn opened a stand near this spot. He was known to treat equally his Choctaw neighbors and American travelers. In 1821 at LeFleur's Bluff along the Pearl River, the city of Jackson was founded and a year later became the state capital. As a result, the postal route shifted slightly east from here to go through the new captital leading to the demise of the stands along this section of the Old Trace.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Clinton Visitor Center
We are coming up on The Clinton Visitor Center near Milepost 89. It offers year-round entertainment and fun. In addition to Friday Nights at Milepost 89, the weekend music scene includes folk, country, bluegrass, string band music, and gospel with performances on most Saturday mornings and every Sunday afternoon. The center also hosts several events throughout the year that are both informative and fun for the entire family. The Clinton Visitor Center has the look and authentic charm of an 1800s-style farmhouse. Come sit in their rocking chairs on the porch or walk the beautifully landscaped grounds.The welcome area includes a gift shop that showcases the work of local artisans with products ranging from art prints, jewelry, woodwork, books, ceramics, Civil War collectibles, Natchez Trace memorabilia, and delicious Mississippi specialty food products.You can access your email, research area maps, and receive updated weather reports using a computer at the front desk. They also have wireless internet capabilities that you are welcome to access with your personal computer.The Arts Council of Clinton and the Junior Civic League commissioned and provided two large murals painted by Albert Smathers of Mississippi College, depicting scenes along the Natchez Trace Parkway.Kwilt enthusiasts will enjoy seeing the “Life in Mississippi” quilt made by a group of women who call themselves the Bookworm Stitchers. The center is located at 1300 Pine Haven Road, at Milepost 89. For more details call 601 924 2221.
Cowles Mead Cemetery
Like many of his generation, Cowles Mead came from the east seeking opportunity in the Mississippi Territory. He owned a tavern on the Old Trace near Natchez and held several political offices, including acting governor in 1806. During this time, he ordered the arrest of Aaron Burr for treason but the former Vice President was acquitted. Mead followed the growth of the state and moved to the Jackson area. He built his beautifully landscaped home, "Greenwood" on this site. Little remains today of his grand estate that burned after his death, during the Civil War, except the family cemetery along the walkway to your right.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Battle of Port Gibson
Shortly after midnight the crash of musketry shattered the stillness as the Federals stumbled upon Confederate outposts near the A. K. Shaifer house. Union troops immediately deployed for battle, and their artillery, which soon arrived, roared into action. A spirited skirmish ensued which lasted until 3 a.m, with the Confederates holding their ground. For the next several hours an uneasy calm settled over the woods and scattered fields as soldiers of both armies rested on their arms. Throughout the night the Federals gathered their forces in hand and both sides prepared for the battle which they knew would come with the rising sun.At dawn, Union troops began to move in force along the Rodney Road toward Magnolia Church. One division was sent along a connecting plantation road toward the Bruinsburg Road and the Confederate right flank. With skirmishers well ahead, the Federals began a slow and deliberate advance around 5:30 a.m. The Confederates contested the thrust and the battle began in earnest.Most of the Union forces moved along the Rodney Road toward Magnolia Church and the Confederate line held by Brigadier General Martin E. Green's Brigade. Heavily outnumbered and hard-pressed, the Confederates gave way shortly after 10:00 a.m. The men in butternut and gray fell back a mile and a half. Here the soldiers of Brigadier General William E. Baldwin's and Colonel Francis M. Cockrell's brigades, recent arrivals on the field, established a new line between White and Irwin branches of Willow Creek. Full of fight, these men re-established the Confederate left flank.The morning hours witnessed Green's Brigade driven from its position by the principle Federal attack. Brigadier General Edward D. Tracy's Alabama Brigade, astride the Bruinsburg Road, also experienced hard fighting. Although Tracy was killed early in the action, his brigade managed to hold its tenuous line.It was clear, however, that unless the Confederates received heavy reinforcements, they would lose the day. Brigadier General John S. Bowen, Confederate commander on the field, wired his superiors: "We have been engaged in a furious battle ever since daylight; losses very heavy. The men act nobly, but the odds are overpowering." Early afternoon found the Alabamans slowly giving ground. Green's weary soldiers, having been regrouped, arrived to bolster the line on the Bruinsburg Road.Even so, by late in the afternoon, the Federals had advanced all along the line in superior numbers. As Union pressure built, Cockrell's Missourians unleashed a vicious counterattack near the Rodney Road, and began to roll up the blue line. The 6th Missouri also counterattacked, hitting the Federals near the Bruinsburg Road. All this was to no avail, for the odds against them were too great. The Confederates were checked and driven back, the day lost. At 5:30 p.m., battle-weary Confederates began to retire from the hard-fought field.The battle of Port Gibson cost Grant 131 killed, 719 wounded, and 25 missing out of 23,000 men engaged. This victory not only secured his position on Mississippi soil, but enabled him to launch his campaign deeper into the interior of the state. Union victory at Port Gibson forced the Confederate evacuation of Grand Gulf and would ultimately result in the fall of Vicksburg.The Confederates suffered 60 killed, 340 wounded, and 387 missing out of 8,000 men engaged. In addition, 4 guns of the Botetourt (Virginia) Artillery were lost. The action at Port Gibson underscored Confederate inability to defend the line of the Mississippi River and to respond to amphibious operations. Confederate soldiers from these operations are buried at Wintergreen Cemetery in Port Gibson. With Port Gibson behind him, Grant was able to start moving his army inland.
Battle of Raymond
By the time of the Civil War, the Natchez Trace had lost its significance as a national road. One of the sections ran from Port Gibson toward Jackson but the route veered from the original Trace to reach Raymond. In the spring of 1863, General U.S. Grant marched his Union Army over this route after crossing the Mississippi and taking Port Gibson. On May 12, Grant's forces drew fire from a Confederate brigade, commanded by Brigadier General John Gregg, located on the southern edge of Raymond three miles east of here. After a day of bitter fighting, the Confederates retreated toward Jackson leaving their wounded in the county courthouse. This set-to convinced Grant of the need to take Jackson in order to assure the success of his forthcoming siege of Vicksburg.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Dean Stand
The Treaty of Doak's Stand, 1820, opened this land to white settlement. Land was quickly claimed and pioneer families established themselves in this wilderness. William Dean and his wife, Margaret, settled near here on the Old Natchez Trace in 1823. The Deans supplemented their farm income by offering lodging to travelers. The clientele was a cross section of the advancing frontier - the homeward bound boatmen, the hurrying mail rider, the trader in land and horses, the fugitive, or the itinerant preacher. On the night of May 12, 1863, General U.S. Grant made his headquarters here after the battle of Raymond.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Lower Choctaw Boundary
A line of trees here has been a boundary for 200 years. It was established in 1765 and marked the eastern limits of the old Natchez District. This boundary ran from a point 12 miles east of Vicksburg, southward to the 31st parallel.First surveyed in 1778, it was reaffirmed by Spain in 1793, and by the United States in 1801. Since 1820, it has served as the boundary between Hinds and Claiborne Counties Mississippi.Red Bluff Stand - "John Gregg at the lower Choctaw line respectfully informs the public and travelers particularly that he keeps constantly on hand a large and general supply of groceries, ground coffee ready to put up, sugar biscuits, teas, cheese, dried beef or bacon, and every other article necessary for the accommodation of travelers going through the nation, on very reasonable terms. He is also prepared to shoe horses on the very shortest notice." Established in 1802, this hostelry on the Indian boundary was for several years the last place a northbound traveler could get provisions.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Rocky Springs Section Northern Terminus, MP 59
Just up ahead is the Fisher Ferry Road intersection near mile post 59. This is the location of the Rocky Springs Section Northern Terminus trailhead. It is an excellent staging area for horseback riders for the Rocky Springs Section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. There is ample parking for trailers. This is the only area for horses to stage on this section of the trail. There is no water available at this location. Horseback riders will be riding on the road shoulder for part of this trail. The last time I visited this site, the signs to locate the trailhead were damaged by wind. After you exit the trace onto the ramp, at the stop sign turn right onto Fisher Ferry Road. The trailhead will quickly be on your right. This trail crosses gently rolling forested land. At Rocky Springs, a side trail leads to the remains of the old town, including a church and cemetery. The church and cemetery are off Parkway property.South of Rocky Springs the trail is moderately strenuous in places--up and down through deep ravines. Near the south terminus at Owens Creek is a good spot to sit quietly, and listen to the forest.Camping is not permitted along this section of trail. All camping must take place in designated campgrounds. Rocky Springs Campground is located very close to the trail. Once again, watch for the Fisher Ferry road exit to access the Rocky Springs Section Northern Terminus trailhead.
Rocky Springs Town Site, MP 54.8
Called "the Rocky Spring" by early travelers, the town later became Rocky Springs, a rural community covering about 25 square miles. Settlement of the area began in the late 1790's and continued until about 1860, reaching a peak of approximately 2600 people. Several businesses were established at different times, among them carpenters, wheelwrights, a well digger, cabinet makers, a cotton gin maker and blacksmiths. By the mid-1800's there was also a church, post office, a Masonic Lodge, and possibly a school.During the four years that the Civil War raged, many areas in both the North and the South would experience its devastation. A letter written in 1863 stated, "My slaves, horses, and mules are carried off, my fences torn dowand my crops destroyed..." In the summer fall of 1878, yellow fever struck the area. Pastor J.W. Sandwell on November 18, 1873, wrote that there were 180 yellow fever cases and 43 deaths. Although Rocky Springs tried to recover after the yellow fever epidemic, in the early 1900's boll weevil struck, a beetle that feeds on cotton buds and flowers, devastating the cotton crop. After this final disaster, the population declined rapidly and the last store in the area closed its doors during the 1930's.Unfortunately, the nearby spring no longer flows and today only the church and cemetery, two rustling safes and several abandoned cisterns remain of this once prosperous rural community.
Owens Creek Waterfall
The sounds of a busy woodland stream and the quiet murmur of a lazy waterfall have long been stilled here. Only after heavy rainfall does water fill the stream and set the waterfall singing. Over the years the water table has dropped several feet and the spring which feeds Owens Creek has all but disappeared. Little remains of a scene once familiar to residents of Rocky Spring Community.The Owens Creek Waterfall site is also the southern terminus of the Rocky Springs Trail (a segment of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail). From here you can hike north about 3 miles to the Rocky Springs site.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Birds on the Parkway
Grindstone Ford and Mangum Mounds
Near milepost 45.7 are two sites, Grindstone Ford and Mangum Mound. Grindstone Ford marked the beginning of the Choctaw Nation and the end of the Old Natchez District. Nearby Fort Deposit was a supply depot for troops clearing the Trace in 1801 and 1802, and troops were assembled here during the Burr conspiracy allegedly to separate the western states from the Union. The site takes its name from a nearby water mill.The half-mile-long trail to the left of the wooden sign takes you to the Old Trace and Grindstone Ford. Boatmen, also known as Kaintucks, on foot or horseback crossed here, northbound, after floating cargo down to Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to New Orleans and Natchez, Mississippi. Soldiers splashed across from the north to protect the Natchez District from British and Spanish threats during the War of 1812. For post riders, American Indians, and preachers, Bayou Pierre was the line between two nations.Daniel Burnett's stand stood near here. Burnett was the speaker of the Territorial House of Representatives, a principal negotiator with the Choctaws, and a framer of the state constitution but his stand was unpretentious. His guests supped on mush and milk in a room filled with their own gear and Burnett's supplies. From here you may follow their path along the Old Trace to Grindstone Ford.Also at milepost 45.7 is one of six locations on the parkway where we can visit mounds created by native Indians. It is called Mangum Mound. Excavation of this site tells us much about the people of the late prehistoric period. The Plaquemine culture included the ancestors of the modern tribes of Mississippi and Louisiana. It was a society with elaborate agriculturally oriented religious ceremonies. From the burials on this mound, we have learned there was a high infant mortality and upon the death of a chief, a brutal ritual was enacted in which his retainers were slain and buried with him.The history of Mangum Mound illustrates how symbols common to many sacred sites continue to inspire artists today. During the Mississippian period, when native people transformed this natural hillside into a sacred mound, artisans throughout the region adorned ceremonial objects with both realistic and abstract images. Snakes, eyes and birds became symbols of spiritual beliefs.The intersection to these two sites is in an open field and you have to watch closely for the 3 way intersection. The last time I came through here, There was no parkway sign marking the intersection near milepost 45.7.I should also mention that the access road to Mangum Mound has a bridge clearance of 11 feet 6 inches. RVs may need to park in the Grindstone Ford parking lot and walk the short distance along the access road.
Sunken Trace
Preserved here is a portion of the deeply eroded or 'sunken' Old Trace. Hardships of journeying on the Old Trace included heat, mosquitos, poor food, hard beds (if any), disease, swollen rivers, and sucking swamps. Take five minutes to walk this sunken trail and let your imagination carry you back to the early 1800s when people walking 500 miles had to put up with these discomforts and where a broken leg or arm could spell death for the lone traveler.US Department of the Interior - National Park Serice
Port Gibson Visitor Center
Near milepost 37.5 is the Highway 61 exit. The Port Gibson Visitor Center is 1.7 miles north on Highway 61. It offers information on the many historical and scenic areas of the community. You can walk or drive through history at the Grand Gulf Military Park located on the Mississippi River. Port Gibson has beautiful old cemeteries including Wintergreen where General Van Dorn and town founder Samuel Gibson are buried.When you travel down historic Church Street you will see many churches of all religions. The First Presbyterian Church has chandeliers from the Robert E. Lee steamboat and a gold hand on top pointing to heaven that you can see from miles away. The Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center are located in Samuel Gibson's 3rd house which was relocated to its present address.The visitor center, also home of the Claiborne County-Port Gibson Chamber of Commerce, has t-shirts, ornaments, flags, books about the area, and souvenirs. You can see the Gibson's family Bible (currently on loan to the visitor center) that is over 200 years old.The visitor center is open Monday through Friday from 9 am to 3 pm. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays. and Closed for the holidays from December 25th through January 1st. Watch for milepost 37.5 and highway 61.
A.K. Shaifer House
Shortly after midnight the Federal vanguard forded Widows Creek and climbed the long grade to the Shaifer house. As they neared the house, a shot rang out. Union troops responded with a volley of musketry. The battle of Port Gibson had begun. In the darkness the battle increased in fury; then suddenly, about 3 a.m., the guns fell silent.The fighting resumed about 5:30 a.m. as the Federals advanced toward Magnolia Church. One division was sent along a connecting plantation road toward the Bruinsburg Road. Throughout the morning hours the battle raged near the Shaifer house. Federal troops continued to pass by the house all afternoon and bivouacked in the yard that night. The house itself was converted into a hospital.
Windsor Ruins part two
Windsor Ruins part one
Mud Island Creek
Near mile post 22 is a picnic area next to Mud Island Creek. there are no restrooms nor a grill at this next site.
Potkopinu Northern Trailhead
This trailhead is the larger of the two for Potkopinu. Vehicles may be parked parallel to the road. If you have an oversized vehicle this is the only place to park to access this trail. To reach this trailhead exit the Parkway at Milepost 20. Turn left (east) on Road #553 known as River Road. Turn right onto a dirt road and travel a short distance and parking is on the right.Potkopinu (Pot-cop-i-new), the southernmost section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail, is only three miles long, but it is the longest stretch of "sunken" historic Trace remaining. Named for the Natchez word meaning "little valley." Thus trail cuts deep into the rich, fine-grained soil. It doesn't take much to erode this type of soil, and centuries of human and animal traffic have done an impressive job. This trail has some embankments over twenty feet high!The land surrounding the trail is private property. Please stay on the trail at all times.Safety Alert: Prepare to walk through water at stream crossings. Crossing conditions vary from muddy areas to knee-deep water, depending on rainfall. Horses are not permitted on the Potkopinu section.
Bullen Creek
Before your very eyes an endless struggle is taking place. Trees are striving here for the essentials of life - water, sunlight and space. Trying to get ahead, the hardwoods push upward, their crowns filling out all the overhead space, shutting out sunlight from young seedlings. Like their elders, this younger generation also has to fight for survival. The competition is keen and the hardwoods are winning over the pines. A 15 minute walk along this trail will take you from a mixed hardwood-pine forest (the loser) to a mixed hardwood forest (the winner).US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Coles Creek Picnic Area
Stop for a picnic and restroom break, at Coles Creek. The southern terminus of the Potkopinu Section of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail is a half-mile to the south.
Mount Locust Historic House
Mount Locust is a location that has been settled on by many different people and under many different flags during its long history of human occupation that dates back as far back as 600 C.E. (Common Era), long before Europeans first stepped foot in the area. There is archeological evidence of two separate American Indian occupations on the site. The first was between 600 and 800 C.E during what is known as the Coles Creek culture and based on archeological findings it seems those who occupied the area lived in small, family-based groupings where they fished, hunted, and gathered, and made pottery much as their ancestors had in the past. The second occupation was a village site in a field southwest of the historic house that consisted of at least seven mostly circular structures that dated back to between 1000 to 1350 C.E during Plaquemine culture.Centuries later, John Blommart began what would become known as Mount Locust around 1780, but his stay was short. Blommart’s former business associate, William Ferguson, and his wife Paulina purchased Mount Locust in 1784 and built the Mount Locust historic house, which is now one of the oldest structures still standing in the area. William and Paulina owned and operated the farm until William’s death in 1801. A short time later Paulina married James Chamberlain, an overseer at Mount Locust, and they continued to build the growing plantation.Between 1785 and 1820, an increasing number of boatmen known as "Kaintucks," were floating flatboats down the Mississippi River to sell their goods at the markets in Natchez and New Orleans. Without an efficient way to navigate back up the Mississippi River, the boatmen walked north on the Natchez Trace to make their way home. The growing number of travelers compelled the Fergusons to turn their home into a "stand," which was nothing more than a crude inn. The family offered the boatmen a meal of corn mush and milk with meager sleeping arrangements on the porches and grounds. The boatmen paid just 25 cents for the much-needed food and accommodations the stand provided.After the invention of the cotton gin in the late 1700's, cotton became a popular cash crop in the South. Mount Locust was no exception as it was a thriving cotton plantation through the early to mid-1800's. During the, "King Cotton" era, a number of families were forced to endure the bondage of slavery and forced labor at Mount Locust. Archeologists believe 12 to 16 slave cabins once stood on the property, with four to five people occupying each dwelling. On the west side of Mount Locust, a cemetery holds the remains of 43 enslaved people.The end of the plantation system after the Civil War led to a slow decline at Mount Locust. Eventually the National Park Service took over the property in 1938, with the last of the Chamberlain leaving in 1944. Overall, Mount Locust was a home to the Ferguson-Chamberlain family for five generations.Visitors are encouraged to tour the grounds of Mount Locust. A short walk behind the house will take you to the enslaved person cemetery, the Ferguson-Chamberlain cemetery, and the brick kiln site, where slaves made the bricks to build parts of the Ferguson-Chamberlain home.
Loess Bluff
This bluff shows a deep deposit of windblown topsoil known as Loess (pronounced Low-ess). It was formed during the Ice age when glaciers covered the northern half of the United States. At this time nearly continuous dust storms swept in from the western plains and covered this area with wind blown dust to a depth of 30 to 90 feet. Here it rests on sands and clays of an ancient sea. It originally covered a vast region but in this area is now confined to a strip east of the Mississippi River from three to 30 miles wide extending from Baton Rouge into Tennessee. Where the Old Natchez Trace passed over Loess it formed sunken roads, in places 20 feet deep.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Turpin Creek Picnic Area and Loess Bluff
This bluff shows a deep deposit of windblown topsoil known as Loess (pronounced Low-ess). It was formed during the Ice age when glaciers covered the northern half of the United States. At this time nearly continuous dust storms swept in from the western plains and covered this area with wind blown dust to a depth of 30 to 90 feet. Here it rests on sands and clays of an ancient sea. It originally covered a vast region but in this area is now confined to a strip east of the Mississippi River from three to 30 miles wide extending from Baton Rouge into Tennessee. Where the Old Natchez Trace passed over Loess it formed sunken roads, in places 20 feet deep.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Emerald Mound
Designated a National Historic Landmark, Emerald is one of the largest mounds in North America. Covering eight acres, Emerald Mound measures 770 by 435 feet at the base and is 35 feet high. The mound was built by depositing earth along the sides of a natural hill, thus reshaping it and creating an enormous artificial plateau. Two smaller mounds sit atop the expansive summit platform of the primary mound. The larger of the two, at the west end, measures 190 by 160 feet and is 30 feet high. Several additional smaller mounds were once located along the edges of the primary mound summit, but were destroyed in the 19th century by plowing and erosion. Emerald Mound, built and used during the Mississippian period between 1250 and 1600 A.D.,was a ceremonial center for the local population, which resided in outlying villages and hamlets. Its builders were ancestors of the Natchez Indians. By the late 1600s, the Natchez had abandoned Emerald and established their capital at the Grand Village some 12 miles to the southwest.
Old Trace Exhibit Shelter
Elizabeth Female Academy
The Natchez Trace was still active and Mississippi had just become a state when the Elizabeth Female Academy opened its doors in November of 1818. Much can be learned about the culture of early Mississippi here in the community of Washington. As the young state's first capital it boasted churches, advanced learning societies, and two institutions of higher education, Jefferson College (1811) and the Elizabeth Female Academy. Progressive thinking for the day, it was the first institution of higher learning for women chartered by the state of Mississippi. After the capital and population shifted to Jackson, the Academy struggled and finally closed in 1845. Follow the path to your right to see what is left of the Academy and learn more about the people who once made Washington the cultural center of Mississippi.US Department of the Interior - National Park Service
Mississippi Highway 18
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
City of Natchez
For more than 65 years, the Loveless Cafe has been offering families and friends a place where they can enjoy a scratch-made Southern meal and reconnect with each other around the table.Our story starts in 1951 when Lon and Annie Loveless opened their front doors to serve fried chicken and biscuits to hungry travelers on Highway 100. Their homemade Southern dishes became so popular that they converted their home into a restaurant and built a 14-room motel for overnight guests. Lon stayed busy managing the motel and curing and smoking country hams, while Annie whipped up made-from-scratch biscuits and preserves in the kitchen.Given these roots of big-hearted hospitality and a mouth-watering menu, it is no wonder that the Loveless Cafe has become a Nashville landmark. Our iconic neon sign welcomes more than half a million visitors a year who are seeking a chance to slow down and savor home-cooked meals. We stay true to our Southern flavor and serve up meals that fuel conversation, laughter and love. Our guests are our family and there is nothing we enjoy more than to see them return, year over year. So many people come to taste the biscuits that put us on the map that we’re now making up to 10,000 every day!Since the early days with Lon and Annie, we’ve continued to add new ways for visitors to enjoy the Loveless Cafe while always staying true to our roots. The motel rooms that Lon managed are now quaint shops full of signature gifts for visitors to take home. For larger gatherings, we have added two event spaces – the Barn and the Harpeth Room – where the Loveless Events team infuses our distinctive Southern hospitality into creating one-of-a-kind weddings, celebrations, meetings and more. The dedicated catering team also goes on the road, bringing our broad talents to kitchens, offices and venues throughout the Nashville area.
Natchez
Hwy 30
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 25
If you have cell service near this site or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 4
If you have cell service near this site or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 370/371
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Tennessee Highway 7
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Mississippi Highway 552
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
US Highway 412
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 18
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Alabama Highway 20
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 178 (McCullough Blvd)
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Palmetto Road (Verona exit)
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Mississippi Highway 8
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Leipers Fork
If you have cell service near this site, or if you are at home planning your trip, you can click on the green button to learn more about what is in this area with the Natchez Trace Travel website.
Leiper's Fork at MP 428
If you have never visited the historic Leipers Fork town, now is your opportunity. If we exit the Trace at mile post 428 onto Tennessee Highway 46 and travel east one mile, we will be in the heart of Leipers Fork. We have some time before our next site on the parkway, so let us tell you about just a few of the many places you can visit in Leiper’s fork. The Copper Fox is a fine Artisan Gallery nestled in a meticulously restored 1860’s home that showcases over 90 artists from across the Southeast. The uptown gallery features original pieces of pottery, jewelry, handmade furniture, ceramics, blown glass, paintings, and a mix of charm and welcoming spirit found only in the south. Patina Home & Garden is so much more than a store. It’s a gathering place for the community to learn, connect, and create. It’s a place to share and learn from experts in natural remedies, floral design, music, organic farming and more. It’s a place to gather “farm to table provisions”, local farm grown flowers, botanical skincare, and herbal remedies so you can bring the natural world into your life. It’s a place to gather curated furniture, antiques and homemade items to add to your home and garden. Watch for Patina Home and Garden. Leiper’s Creek Gallery features an eclectic range of art from representational painting to abstract expressionism and sculpture. Each artist featured is already established either nationally and internationally and has a distinctive style with brilliant technical abilities.Adding to the ambiance of Leiper’s Creek Gallery is the distinctly Southern front porch and fire pit for gathering around, along with a “Lawn Chair Theater” in the rear that has hosted well-known music acts, community activities, and a family-friendly summer movie series. Check out the Leiper’s Fork Gallery. Whether you are hungry or not, you should have a meal at Hogwood BBQ. It offers artisan smoked meats and made-from-scratch sides. You can enjoy brisket, pork, ribs, or turkey along with pour-over mac-n-cheese, beans, hatch chile cheese grits, ice box pickles, and more. Their meats are perfectly seasoned with their unique Hogwood Spice blend and slowly smoked to perfection. Watch for mile post 428 and Tennessee Highway 46.
Quiet Time
We have about 10 miles to travel to the next site. This is one of those areas on the parkway where I should stay quiet and allow you to enjoy the road trip. I'll let you know about the next stop well in advance of arriving there.
Quiet Time
We have about 10 miles to travel to the next site. This is one of those areas on the parkway where I should stay quiet and allow you to enjoy the road trip. I'll let you know about the next stop well in advance of arriving there.
Tenn-Tom
Since we are close to it, let me tell you all about The Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway (popularly known as the Tenn-Tom) is a 234-mile artificial U.S. waterway built in the 20th century from the Tennessee River to the junction of the Black Warrior-Tombigbee River system near Demopolis, Alabama. The Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway links commercial navigation from the nation's midsection to the Gulf of Mexico. The major features of the waterway are 234 miles of navigation channels, a 175-foot-deep cut between the watersheds of the Tombigbee and Tennessee rivers, and ten locks and dams. The locks are 9 by 110 by 600 feet, the same dimension as those on the Mississippi above Lock and Dam 26 at Alton, Illinois. Under construction for 12 years by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway was completed in December 1984 at a total cost of nearly $2 billion.The Tenn-Tom encompasses 17 public ports and terminals, 110,000 acres of land, and another 88,000 acres managed by state conservation agencies for wildlife habitat preservation and recreational use.The $2 billion in required funding for the Tenn-Tom waterway was repeatedly attacked by elected representatives and political organizations. Opponents asserted that the estimated economic benefits of the waterway by the Corps of Engineers were unsupportable based on projected traffic volume. By 1977, the Tenn-Tom was one of many such Corps of Engineers projects that had been initiated in the belief that they would directly or indirectly return to the Treasury their cost(s) of construction.Immediately after his election in 1976, Democratic President Jimmy Carter announced a plan to slash Tenn-Tom federal funding, as part of broader reductions in federal spending. Carter, and the economic advisors recruited to his administration, objected to the "waste" of taxpayer dollars on "pork-barrel projects". But, after more than 6,500 waterway supporters attended a public hearing held in Columbus, Mississippi, as part of Carter's review of the proposed waterway, the President withdrew his opposition.The Louisville and Nashville Railroad filed a series of lawsuits to halt construction of the waterway. Railroad companies, which served as a major transport alternative to river traffic and stood to potentially lose the most value from construction of the waterway, asserted that its construction violated the National Environmental Policy Act. Federal courts ruled in favor of the project.When completed, the Tenn-Tom waterway's total cost was $1.992 billion, including non-federal costs. Some political and economic commentators derided the project as "pork-barrel politics at its worst". For the first few years after its completion, such criticism appeared valid. The Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway had opened in the midst of an economic recession in the barge business, which resulted in initially disappointingly low use of the waterway.The 1988 drought, however, closed the Mississippi River and shifted traffic to the Tenn-Tom canal. This coincided with an economic turnaround on the Tennessee-Tombigbee corridor, wherein trade tonnage and commercial investment increased steadily over several years.The two primary commodities shipped via the Tenn-Tom are coal and timber products, together comprising about 70 percent of total commercial shipping on the waterway. The Tenn-Tom also provides access to over 34 million acres of commercial forests and approximately two-thirds of all recoverable coal reserves in the nation. Industries that use these natural resources have found the waterway to be their most cost-efficient mode of transportation. Other popular trade products carried on the Tenn-Tom include grain, gravel, sand, and iron.A 2009 study by Troy University found that the waterway had contributed nearly $43 billion in direct, indirect, and induced economic benefits to the United States, including the direct creation of more than 29,000 jobs, and was replacing an annual average of 284,000 truckloads.
Quiet Time
We have about 10 miles to travel to the next site. This is one of those areas on the parkway where I should stay quiet and allow you to enjoy the road trip. I'll let you know about the next stop well in advance of arriving there.
Roane Byrnes
Known as the ‘Queen of the Natchez Trace’, Roane Fleming Byrnes was instrumental in preserving the Old Trace and seeing it designated as a National Park Service site in 1938. Born in Natchez, MS, in 1890, Byrnes attended Stanton College. An aspiring writer of children’s stories, two of which were published, Byrnes also wrote several essays and speeches about racial harmony in the city of Natchez.Byrnes invited national leaders to her home in Natchez, where she steered the conversation to the Natchez Trace Parkway. Guests were given a tour of her “war room” which had paintings of the complete Parkway and progress maps. The guests left fully committed to supporting the project. A friend commented that the Natchez Trace was paved with “Moonshine and meatloaf”.In 1935, Byrnes became the president of the Natchez Trace Association, which she served on for twenty-five years. During that time, she spent countless hours writing letters and articles emphasizing the parkway’s importance. On November 9th, 1951, the first part of the Parkway opened, 65 miles from Jackson to Kosciusko. By 1968, Byrnes had traveled over 300 miles of completed Parkway.Byrnes often said, “I want to ride on the Natchez Trace all the way before I have to ride on the golden streets”. However, the Parkway was not finished by the time of her death in 1970.