Yorkshire Dales Preview

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Kendal, often known as the “Gateway to the Lake District,” is a historic market town in Cumbria, set along the banks of the River Kent. Its location made it an important centre for trade and travel, long before visitors began arriving to explore the nearby lakes and mountains.

The town has a rich industrial heritage, particularly in wool production. Kendal was once famous for its “Kendal Green” cloth, a hard-wearing fabric that became widely used across England, even worn by archers during medieval times. The river provided the power needed to drive mills, and the industry helped shape the town’s prosperity.

Kendal is also well known for a rather unusual local product 'Kendal Mint Cake'. Despite the name, it’s not a cake at all, but a high-energy glucose-based sweet flavoured with peppermint.

Walking through Kendal today, you’ll notice its distinctive grey limestone buildings, giving the town a unified and characterful appearance. The streets are lined with independent shops, cafés, and traditional yards with narrow alleyways that hint at the town’s medieval past.

Culturally, Kendal has a thriving arts scene, hosting events such as the Kendal Mountain Festival, which celebrates outdoor adventure, film, and exploration.

Looking to the distance you can see Morecambe Bay an ever-changing landscape where land and sea blend into one. Its wide tidal flats stretch for miles, creating shimmering patterns of sand and water that shift with each tide. At low tide, the bay reveals an expanse of rippled sand and winding channels, while high tide transforms it into a broad, reflective sheet of water.

Killington Reservoir, located near Sedbergh was constructed in the early 19th century to supply water to the Kendal Canal, which at the time was an important transport route for goods such as coal, stone, and agricultural produce. The reservoir was designed to ensure a steady water level in the canal, allowing boats to pass smoothly through the locks. However, by the time the reservoir was completed, the rise of the railway had already begun to overtake canal transport. The Kendal Canal quickly fell into decline, meaning the reservoir’s original purpose became largely redundant almost as soon as it was finished. Despite this, Killington Reservoir found a new role. Today, it is a peaceful and scenic body of water, popular with walkers, birdwatchers, and anglers.

The stone-built market town of Sedbergh is famous for being one of Britain's leading 'Book Towns', positioned under the massive backdrop of the Howgill Fells, a magnificent area of rolling hills and open common land.

Sedbergh owes much of its development to its location at the convergence of four valleys formed by the rivers Lune, Rawthey, Clough (Garsdale) and Dee (Dentdale) – each serving as access and trade routes. The Romans followed the north-south axis of the Lune Valley, establishing forts at Borrowbridge (near Tebay) and Over Burrow (south of Kirkby Lonsdale) linked by a Roman road that runs on the line of Fair Mile and Howgill Lane.

Sedbergh is mentioned in the Doomsday book, and the name’s a derivative from the Norse ‘Set Berg’ meaning ‘flat-topped hill’. The town was granted a market charter by Henry III in 1251. In 1652, in the early days of the Quaker movement, George Fox, founder of the Quakers, preached to a congregation of a thousand from a large rock on the fellside just outside Sedbergh, which became known as Fox’s Pulpit.

Traditionally, Sedbergh was part of the West Riding of Yorkshire, with strong cultural and historical ties to the county. However, in 1974, local government boundaries were reorganised, and the new county of Cumbria was created. This brought together areas from Cumberland, Westmorland, parts of Lancashire and, controversially, a small portion of Yorkshire, including Sedbergh.

While the administrative change placed Sedbergh within Cumbria, many locals and traditionalists still firmly consider it to be part of Yorkshire.

Farfield Mill, located just outside Sedbergh is a beautifully restored Victorian woollen mill that today serves as a vibrant centre for arts, crafts, and heritage. Built in 1837, the mill was originally powered by water from the nearby River Rawthey and played an important role in the region’s textile industry.

During the 19th century, mills like Farfield were at the heart of local life, processing wool from the surrounding farms into cloth. The building itself, constructed from sturdy local stone, reflects the industrial confidence of the period, while its location highlights the importance of natural resources such as water power.

As the textile industry declined, the mill eventually fell into disuse. However, rather than being lost to time, it was carefully restored and given a new purpose. Today, Farfield Mill is home to galleries, workshops, and studios, showcasing the work of local and national artists and craftspeople.

Visitors can explore exhibitions ranging from textiles and ceramics to woodwork and printmaking, often with the opportunity to see artists at work. The mill continues to celebrate traditional skills while also embracing contemporary creativity, linking past and present in a meaningful way.

Dentdale is one of the most peaceful and unspoilt valleys in the Yorkshire Dales. It follows the River Dee and is surrounded by gentle hills, green pastures, and traditional dry-stone walls, creating a classic Dales landscape.

At the heart of the valley is the village of Dent, known for its narrow cobbled streets and whitewashed cottages. Dent has a strong sense of character and history, with old buildings, a village green, and small independent shops and cafés. It feels remote compared to busier parts of the Dales, which adds to its charm.

Dentdale has a long farming tradition, and you’ll often see sheep grazing across the hillsides. It is also known for its links to knitting, Dent once had a reputation for producing hand-knitted goods that were sold across the country. Nearby is the impressive Dent Head Viaduct on the Settle – Carlisle Railway, one of the most scenic rail routes in England.

We are right in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. In total there are fifteen National Parks in the United Kingdom with the first, the Peak District, being designated in 1951 and being joined the following year by the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales 1954 and the North York Moors 1952 . Being a National Park, these areas have certain protections and regulations governing them. The National Park Authority work with the local communities, councils, land owners, business and other stakeholders to support the management and sustainability of the area and their work covers, everything from farming to tourism.

Comprising a single drop of 100 feet from a rocky overhang, Hardraw Force is claimed to be England's highest unbroken waterfall. The drop and surrounding, create a natural amphitheatre and in September each year it is the site of an annual brass-band contest, attracting bands from all over the North of England.

Hardraw Force featured prominently in the 1991 film Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, serving as the backdrop for the scene in which Maid Marian discovers Robin Hood bathing beneath a waterfall. The grounds are owned by the Green Dragon Inn whose owner has been restoring them to their former glory.

This road crosses the high moorland between Wensleydale and Swaledale - from the small market town of Hawes over to the hamlet of Thwaite. Buttertubs Pass is a 4km climb with a maximum gradient of 15%, the combination of its challenging gradient and exposure to the elements makes it a tough ascent.

There are places to pull in at the summit, and you can visit the limestone potholes which give the pass its name.

The story goes that as farmers rested at the top of the climb on a hot day - on route to the market in Hawes - they would lower the butter they had produced for sale into the potholes to keep it cool.

More recently Buttertubs Pass featured as the second ‘King of the Mountains’ climb of the 2014 Grand Depart of the Tour de Franc.

Standing at the summit of a deep valley, Keld used to be considered one of the most secluded villages in the county but has become popular with walkers in recent decades as it sits where the Pennine Way and Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast intersect.

The Pennine Way is one of the most challenging hiking routes in England, running for 267 miles from the Peak District to the border of Scotland, while Coast to Coast runs from St Bees in Cumbria to Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea. Despite its rural location, Keld was once an important place for lead mining and its population rose as high as 6,000 people during the middle of the 19th century. Today, though, it is likely to be less than 100 people.

Muker is a small, traditional village in Swaledale, it sits near the River Swale and is surrounded by some of the most beautiful and unspoilt scenery in the Dales.

The village is known for its stone cottages, narrow lanes, and quiet, rural atmosphere. At its centre is a small village green, along with a pub, café, and gallery that serve both locals and visitors.

One of Muker’s most special features is its hay meadows. In late spring and early summer, these fields are filled with wildflowers, creating colourful displays that attract walkers and nature lovers.

We are now approaching Gunnerside, a small, traditional village in Swaledale.

The village is built from local stone and is quieter than nearby places like Reeth, which makes it feel more remote and traditional.

One of the most important parts of Gunnerside’s history is lead mining. The nearby valley of Gunnerside Gill is full of remains from the 18th and 19th centuries, including old mine shafts, ruined buildings, and spoil heaps. These features are now part of the landscape and can be explored on footpaths, offering a glimpse into the area’s industrial past.

Crackpot is a tiny and remote hamlet in Swaledale, tucked high in the Yorkshire Dales and surrounded by wild, open moorland. Its unusual name often raises a smile, appealing to the British sense of humour, though it likely comes from an old dialect meaning a “crow-filled hollow.”

The settlement is made up of a handful of traditional stone barns and cottages, many dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

The Red Lion Inn, is one of the most charming and characterful pubs in the Yorkshire Dales. Nestled in the remote and beautiful Arkengarthdale, the inn has stood for centuries. Built from traditional local stone, the Red Lion retains much of its historic character, with low beams, flagstone floors, and cosy interiors that reflect its long past. In such a remote valley, inns like this were once essential, providing food, rest, and a meeting place for local communities, farmers, and miners who worked in the surrounding hills.

The Red Lion Inn has gained wider recognition through its connection to All Creatures Great and Small. The village of Langthwaite has been used as a filming location for the show, with its unspoilt appearance perfectly capturing the atmosphere of a traditional Yorkshire Dales setting. The Red Lion itself has featured in scenes, helping bring the fictional world of Darrowby to life.

This link to the series has brought new visitors to the village, many keen to experience the setting of the beloved stories inspired by the real-life vet James Herriot. Yet despite this attention, Langthwaite and the Red Lion Inn have retained their quiet, timeless charm.

Reeth is a small but lively village tucked into the hills of the Yorkshire Dales, Perched above the River Swale, it’s surrounded by steep slopes, winding paths, and wide open moorland that seem to stretch on forever. The village itself gathers around a big green, with cosy stone cottages and old inns that have probably seen generations of muddy boots and tired walkers.

For centuries Reeth was busy with lead mining, the surrounding hills were rich with lead ore, and by the 18th and 19th centuries, mining here was a major source of employment and prosperity. Smelt mills, mine shafts, and spoil heaps became defining features of the valley, while Reeth itself grew as a busy hub for trade and workers. However, this success was not to last. In the late 19th century, cheaper lead began to be imported from overseas, particularly from countries where extraction costs were far lower. Almost overnight, the local industry became uneconomical. Mines closed rapidly, jobs disappeared, and families were forced to leave in search of work elsewhere.

St Andrew’s Church in Grinton, often known as the “Cathedral of the Dales,” stands proudly above the village in Upper Swaledale and tells a story deeply rooted in both faith and industry. Despite its grand nickname, it is not a cathedral, but its size and importance reflect the once-thriving community it served.

The church dates back to the 12th century, though much of what you see today was rebuilt in the 15th century. Its elevated position was deliberate, allowing it to be seen from across the valley, a beacon for the scattered farming and mining communities of Swaledale. Some say the congregation were trying to buy there way into heaven by donating heavily to the church.

Grinton’s prominence is closely linked to the lead mining industry, which boomed here during the 18th and 19th centuries. At its height, thousands of miners and their families lived and worked in the surrounding hills. St Andrew’s became their spiritual centre, hosting large congregations and serving as a place of gathering in an otherwise remote landscape. Its scale reflects this period of prosperity, when the population of the area was far greater than it is today.

However, as the lead industry declined in the late 19th century, the population fell sharply. Nearby Reeth gradually replaced Grinton as the main settlement, leaving the church standing as a reminder of a busier past.

Inside, the church retains a sense of simplicity and calm, with stone walls and traditional features that reflect its long history. Outside, the surrounding graveyard holds generations of local families, including many who worked in the mines.

Wensleydale stands out among the Yorkshire Dales for an unusual reason - its name. Most dales are traditionally named after the rivers that flow through them, such as Swaledale from the River Swale or Wharfedale from the River Wharfe. However, Wensleydale breaks this pattern. Instead of taking its name from the River Ure, which runs through the valley, it is named after the village of Wensley.

Wensley was once an important and thriving market town, serving as the main centre of trade and activity in the valley. Its position along key routes made it a focal point for commerce, and for a time, it was the most significant settlement in the area. This prominence led to the valley itself becoming known as Wensleydale.

However, Wensley’s fortunes changed dramatically during the outbreaks of plague in the medieval period. Like many communities across England, it suffered severe population loss, and its importance quickly declined. Nearby towns, particularly Leyburn, began to grow and eventually took over as the main local centre.

Ahead and to your left is Bolton Castle this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the country, dominating Wensleydale with its commanding presence. It was built in the late 14th century by Sir Richard le Scrope, Lord Chancellor of England under Richard II, and remarkably, it remains in the hands of his direct descendants today.

Construction is said to have taken 18 years and cost around 12,000 marks,an enormous sum at the time. Unlike many castles that have fallen into ruin, Bolton’s four great towers still stand at their original height, creating a striking silhouette that has remained largely unchanged for over 600 years.

The castle has witnessed dramatic moments in British history. Its most famous resident was Mary, Queen of Scots, who was held here for six months after her defeat at the Battle of Langside. Although she was a prisoner, she lived in relative comfort, accompanied by a household of 51 people, and it was during her stay that she is said to have learned to speak English.

During the English Civil War, the castle was besieged and partially slighted, leaving sections damaged. However, parts of the building were later restored, helping preserve its impressive structure.

Bolton Castle’s authenticity has made it a popular filming location, appearing in productions such as Elizabeth and All Creatures Great and Small. With its blend of history, architecture, and storytelling, it remains one of the most atmospheric castles in England.

According to local legend, Bolton Castle is home to a fearsome dragon known as Alfraeda. Said to dwell in the surrounding woods and hills of Wensleydale, Alfraeda once terrorised the local villagers, scorching fields and livestock with her fiery breath.

The story tells of a brave young man who set out to confront the dragon. Armed with courage and determination, he tracked Alfraeda to her lair near the castle. After a fierce struggle, he defeated the beast, through strength and cunning, bringing peace back to the valley and ending her reign of terror.

Today, this legend is brought to life through a striking wooden sculpture of Alfraeda within the castle grounds. Carved in a dramatic and expressive style, the sculpture captures the imagination, giving visitors a visual connection to the tale.

We will soon be passing through Carperby, a pretty, linear village stretching for over half a mile. The village sits beneath the scars of Great Wegber and Weyber and enjoys south facing views across Wensleydale to Penhill and the branching valleys of Walden and Bishopdale.

In the 17th century, Carperby became the centre of Quakerism in Wensleydale. Built in 1864, the Carperby Quaker Meeting House is the largest building in the village and the striking classic structure reflects the movement's importance here.

The local pub in the centre of the village is called The Wheatsheaf and hints at the history of the industry in the village. This is where the real-life James Herriot, Alf Wright, and his wife spent their honeymoon in 1941. Actor Greta Garbo also once stayed here during a retreat to the Yorkshire Dales.

Stretching over a dramatic mile-long gorge on the River Ure, Aysgarth Falls is one of the most famous triple-flight waterfalls in England. Rather than a single vertical drop, the falls consist of three distinct stages - Upper, Middle, and Lower, where the river tumbles over broad, staircase-like layers of Carboniferous limestone. This "stepped" effect is a geological marvel known as the Yoredale Series, formed over 300 million years ago when the area lay beneath a shallow tropical sea. The current dramatic landscape was sculpted much more recently, during the last Ice Age, when surging glacial meltwater carved deep into the rock to create the valley we see today.

While the falls have been a major tourist draw for over 200 years, they earned modern global fame as a filming location for the 1991 blockbuster Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. The Upper Falls provided the backdrop for the iconic river duel.

Long before Hollywood arrived, the falls inspired the romantic sensibilities of William Wordsworth, who honeymooned nearby.

Askrigg is a small village and civil parish in Wensleydale. The name Askrigg is of Old Norse origin, consisting of the combination of askr (ash tree) and hryggr (ridge), meaning the ridge where ash trees grew, denoting the existence of Viking settlers and their farming. The oldest settlement probably dates back to the Iron Age.

The village is mentioned in the Domesday Book as Ascric. At the time of the Norman invasion the manor was held by Arnketil.

One handsome house in Askrigg enjoyed television fame in the 1970s and 1980s as Skelldale House – home of the fictional Dales vet James Herriot, whilst the King's Arms became the setting for the Drover's Inn.

Sitting at an elevation of 850 feet, Hawes holds the distinction of being the highest market town in England. Its name, derived from the Old Norse word hals, meaning a “pass between mountains,” perfectly reflects its dramatic setting between the peaks of Fleet Moss and Buttertubs. This location also made Hawes a natural hub for transport and trade, with routes converging here from across the Dales. As a result, the town became known for its many inns and pubs, serving stagecoaches, drovers, and travellers crossing the fells. These provided rest, food, and fresh horses, making Hawes a lively stopping point on long journeys.

Though small, Hawes has been a centre of commerce since it was first recorded as a marketplace in 1307. This tradition continues today, with a bustling Tuesday market granted a royal charter by King William III in 1699. Alongside trade, traditional industries flourished here, including rope making an essential craft for farming and transport, once carried out in long ropewalk buildings.

Hawes sits in the heart of “Herriot Country,” the landscape that inspired Alf Wight, better known as James Herriot. The town reflects the close-knit, hardworking rural life captured in his stories and seen in All Creatures Great and Small, both the original series and its modern adaptation.

In the heart of Hawes, the Wensleydale Creamery stands as an icon of British culinary heritage, attracting over 300,000 visitors per year.

The story of its world-famous cheese began nearly 1,000 years ago in the 12th century, when Cistercian monks from Normandy settled at Jervaulx Abbey.

The Creamery’s survival is a tale of northern grit. During the 1930s, local businessman Kit Calvert rescued the factory from closure, and decades later, the staff staged a daring management buyout in 1992 to prevent production from moving out of the Dale. However, its most famous "saviours" are undoubtedly the animated duo Wallace and Gromit. After the inventor declared it his favourite cheese in the 1995 film A Close Shave, sales skyrocketed, forging a permanent cultural bond. At the Visitor Centre, you can still pose for a photo with life-sized figures of the characters.

In 2013, this legacy was legally protected when Yorkshire Wensleydale was granted Protected Geographical Indication status, ensuring that only cheese handcrafted in Wensleydale itself can bear the name.

Hubberholme is an old village in Upper Wharfedale in the Yorkshire Dales, at the point where Langstrothdale meets Wharfedale.

St. Michael and Angels Church is a notable stop where the ashes of the well-known writer J. B. Priestley are buried. St Michael and All Angels, Hubberholme, is one of the most historic and picturesque of all churches in Wharfedale. The farthest church up the dale, it was originally a Forest Chapel of the Norman hunting forest of Langstrothdale Chase, and dates from the 12th century, with its oak roof not been completed until 1558.

St Michael’s was originally dedicated to the Northumbrian St Oswald and was given to the monks of Coverham Abbey in 1241. It was the craftsman Robert Thompson, also known as “the Mouseman” of Kilburn”, who designed the oak church pews and left his trademark mouse in the woodwork.

Nestled in the tiny hamlet of Hubberholme, is St Michaels & All Angels Church, rich in history as the location where the ashes of the well-known writer J. B. Priestley are buried. This historic church has also been featured in the television series All Creatures Great and Small, it was used for filming the wedding of James and Helen Herriot and a baptism scene. This idyllically located 12th-century church sits peacefully beside the River Wharfe. The church is known for its medieval architecture and a rare monastic Rood Loft and pews carved by Robert Thompson, known as " the Mouseman” of Kilburn ".

Nestled in the remote and rugged beauty of Langstrothdale, Yockenthwaite Farm is a site where television fiction and authentic Dales heritage collide. For fans of the Channel 5 adaptation of All Creatures Great and Small, this picturesque working farm is instantly recognizable as Heston Grange, the home of Helen Alderson and her family. Its traditional stone architecture, Grade II-listed packhorse bridge, and the "drunken" red post box that sits outside the gates have become iconic symbols of the show’s 1930s-set charm.

The farm’s connection to James Herriot extends beyond the screen. The real-life Hird family has farmed this land since 1842, embodying the same resilience and grit often depicted in the series. While the show uses the farm’s exterior to capture the timeless spirit of the Yorkshire Dales, the interior of the business has evolved into one of the region's most successful diversification stories.

In the early 2000s, Elizabeth Hird began hand-baking granola for guests at their farmhouse Bed & Breakfast. The cereal was such a hit that it grew into the award-winning Yockenthwaite Farm Granola brand, now sold nationwide. Visitors walking the Dales Way, which passes directly through the farm, can experience the same "glittering sunshine and pale mist" that the real James Herriot (Alf Wight) once praised in his journals

The Ribblehead Viaduct is one of the most famous landmarks in the Yorkshire Dales National Park. It carries the Settle – Carlisle Railway across the remote moorland of Batty Moss, near the base of the Yorkshire Three Peaks.

Built between 1869 and 1874, the viaduct is an impressive piece of Victorian engineering. It has 24 large stone arches and stretches for over 400 metres. Thousands of workers, known as “navvies,” were involved in its construction, often working in very harsh weather conditions. Many of them lived in temporary camps nearby, and some lost their lives during the project.

Today, trains still cross the viaduct, making it both a historic and working structure. It’s especially popular with photographers and visitors because of its dramatic setting, with mountains like Ingleborough and Whernside rising in the background.

We are now passing the village of Ingleton situated on the western edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, close to the borders of Cumbria and Lancashire. It sits at the foot of Ingleborough, one of the famous “Yorkshire Three Peaks,” making it a popular base for walkers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The village is best known for the Ingleton Waterfalls Trail, a scenic route that takes visitors past a series of impressive waterfalls, wooded paths, and dramatic limestone scenery. Another major attraction is White Scar Cave, the longest show cave in Britain, where visitors can explore underground passages, stalactites, and caverns.

Ingleton has a strong sense of community and a slightly busier atmosphere than many Dales villages. The centre features shops, cafés, pubs, and traditional stone buildings, all set around a small network of streets rather than a single green.

We are now traveling through Kirkby Lonsdale, a charming market town on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, with the market held every Thursday in the town’s Market Square. It lies beside the River Lune and is known for its historic buildings, independent shops, and relaxed atmosphere.

The town dates to medieval times and still has cobbled streets, old churches, and traditional stone houses. One of its most famous viewpoints is Ruskin's View, named after writer John Ruskin, who described it as one of the loveliest views in England. From here, you can see the River Lune winding through green countryside.

Just a short walk from the town is Devil's Bridge, one of the area’s most famous landmarks. This historic stone bridge has three arches and dates back to medieval times.

The bridge is surrounded by legend. According to local folklore, the devil built it in exchange for the soul of the first person to cross it, but the villagers tricked him by sending a dog across first!