Mountain Passes & Muncaster Castle Preview

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Windermere village is situated just over one mile from the lake. Previously a village called Birthwaite, the town grew as a result of the railway station. Created due to local commercial interest in Kendal after the mainline went elsewhere, industrial leaders wanted the railway to head north to make use of the region's settlements and raw materials, such as iron ore and steel. Thanks to William Wordsworth, the famous poet who protested the railway through letter writing and rallying public opinion, the railway was never developed beyond Windermere. As the final stop on the line, Windermere became a crucial gateway, transforming the area into a popular tourist destination and leading to the development of the town.

We are now approaching White Cross Bay, which is a Park Dean Holiday Resort, but it holds a remarkable and often overlooked wartime history.

During the Second World War, this tranquil lakeside setting was transformed into a secret aircraft production site operated by the Short Brothers. Built in 1941, the facility was deliberately positioned inland to protect it from German bombing raids, while Windermere itself provided an ideal natural runway for testing large seaplanes.

It was here that the Short Sunderland flying boat, one of Britain’s most important maritime patrol aircraf was assembled and launched. The Sunderland was a massive four-engine flying boat used by the Royal Air Force for long-range reconnaissance, anti-submarine warfare, and search and rescue missions across the Atlantic.

Known as the “Flying Porcupine” due to its heavy defensive armament, it played a crucial role in countering German U-boats. Between 1942 and 1944, dozens of these aircraft were built at White Cross Bay, with many more repaired and tested on the lake. After the war, the factory was dismantled and the area gradually returned to civilian use, eventually becoming the holiday park seen today.

At 10.5 miles long, one mile wide, and 220 feet deep, Windermere is the largest natural lake in both the Lake District and England. As a ribbon lake formed by glaciers during the last Ice Age, it is fed by numerous rivers. Its name is strictly just "Windermere", but "Lake Windermere" is often used to distinguish it from the nearby town. The lake is dotted with 18 islands, the largest of which is the privately owned Belle Isle. This 40-acre island holds a unique circular mansion built in 1774, the first of its kind in England. Windermere’s waters have also been the stage for historic speed records; in 1930, Sir Henry Segrave broke the world water speed record here in his boat, Miss England II, reaching nearly 100 mph.

The Romans established an important presence in Ambleside at what is now Borrans Field. Around AD 79, under the command of Julius Agricola, a wooden fort known as Galava was constructed on an artificial mound. This raised position was chosen to help defend the site.

In AD 122, during the reign of Hadrian, the fort was rebuilt in stone, providing a more permanent and resilient structure. Galava housed a cohort of approximately 500 Roman soldiers, making it a significant outpost in the region.

The fort’s main purpose was to protect a vital Roman road that linked Ambleside to the western coastal port of Ravenglass, known to the Romans as Glannaventa. This road formed part of a wider network, connecting Galava through Troutbeck to Penrith (Brocavum) and further south to York (Eboracum), illustrating the strategic importance of Ambleside within Roman Britain.

Loughrigg Tarn and Loughrigg Fell are two closely linked landmarks in the central Lake District, both celebrated for their accessibility and scenic beauty. Loughrigg Tarn is a small, tranquil lake nestled between Ambleside and Skelwith Bridge, famous for its mirror-like reflections of the surrounding fells. Despite its modest size, it offers some of the most picturesque views in the area, particularly at sunrise and sunset when the water reflects the changing colours of the sky.

Rising above the tarn, Loughrigg Fell is a relatively low hill at 335 metres, making it a popular choice for walkers of all abilities. From the summit, visitors are treated to panoramic views of Grasmere, Windermere, and the Langdale Pikes, making it one of the best viewpoints for its height.

Elterwater is a small lake that lies half a mile south-east of the village of the same name. Both are situated in the valley of Great Langdale. The river Brathay which provides outflow from Elterwater, flows south to join Lake Windermere, near Ambleside. Elterwater means ‘swan lake’ in Old Norse.

In the past, the principal industries of the area have been farming, quarrying for slate and gunpowder manufacture. Made using water from Great Langdale Beck to power the mill and Charcoal from local woodlands, whilst saltpetre and sulphur were imported. Significant gunpowder works took place from 1824 to 1930.

We will pass Langdale Estate which was originally a collection of slate quarries and working farm buildings. During the 19th century, Langdale was an important centre for slate extraction, and many of the structures that exist today were once part of this industrial landscape. Quarry workers lived and worked in the valley, shaping both the economy and the character of the area.As the slate industry declined in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the valley gradually returned to a quieter, agricultural way of life. The old quarry buildings and farmsteads remained, providing a physical link to the past.

Over time, these historic structures were carefully adapted and restored rather than demolished, helping to preserve the unique identity of the estate. In the later 20th century, Langdale Estate was transformed into a holiday and leisure destination. The development was carried out with sensitivity to the surrounding environment, retaining traditional Lakeland stone architecture and blending with the natural landscape.

Chapel Stile is a village in the heart of Great Langdale, surrounded by some of the most dramatic mountain scenery. Its name comes from an old chapel that once stood nearby, with a “stile” providing access across the surrounding fields, reflecting its rural and historic origins.

Traditionally, Chapel Stile was closely linked to the slate quarrying industry that dominated the Langdale Valley during the 19th century. Many of the cottages in the village were originally built for quarry workers, and the legacy of this industrial past can still be seen in the local stone buildings and the layout of the settlement.

Today, Chapel Stile is a popular base for walkers and visitors exploring the Langdale Pikes and surrounding fells.

The Langdale Valley is a stunning glacial valley, split into Great Langdale and Little Langdale. Famous for the iconic Langdale Pikes, offering spectacular scenery, renowned walking and climbing, charming villages, and historic inns.

The area offers activities ranging from challenging fell hikes to gentler valley strolls around tarns like Blea Tarn. The jagged outlines of Crinkle Crags standing at 852 metres, Bowfell at 902 metres and the Langdale Pikes including Pike of Stickle one of the most recognisable peaks at 709 metres. The Langdale Pikes stand at the head of Great Langdale are an awe-inspiring sight when seen against the dramatic U-shaped trough of the valley. This stunning landscape was forged by an ancient volcano, sculpted during the Ice Age and slowly tamed by humans over the centuries. On the other side of Lingmoor Fell is the much gentler terrain of Little Langdale, a pastoral valley gently scarred by 18th-century slate workings.

Blea Tarn is a small but beautifully situated mountain lake in Little Langdale, known for its peaceful atmosphere and stunning views. Nestled between the valleys of Little Langdale and Great Langdale, it offers one of the most accessible yet scenic viewpoints in the Lake District.

Despite its modest size, Blea Tarn is famous for the dramatic backdrop of the Langdale Pikes, which rise sharply behind the water. On calm days, the tarn reflects these rugged peaks perfectly, creating one of the most photographed scenes in the area. The surrounding landscape, with its rolling hills, dry stone walls, and scattered farms, adds to the sense of tranquillity.
Historically, the area around Blea Tarn was used for farming, with sheep grazing on the surrounding slopes. The tarn would have been an important water source for both livestock and local communities.

In the Langdale Valley, local folklore tells of a figure known as Lanty Slee, a shadowy character said to have run an illicit gin distillery hidden among the remote fells. Though not well documented in official records, Lanty Slee survives in stories as a clever and secretive man who took advantage of the valley’s isolation to avoid the attention of authorities. His still was supposedly concealed in a quiet, hard-to-reach spot, where smoke and activity would go unnoticed among the rugged landscape.

A key part of this story is the presence of wild juniper bushes growing in the surrounding fields and hillsides. Juniper berries are the essential flavouring for gin, and it is said that Lanty Slee gathered them locally, using what the land naturally provided to produce his spirit. These berries would have given his gin a distinctive, earthy flavour tied directly to the Langdale environment.

The Three Shires Stone, located in Little Langdale, is a historic landmark marking the meeting point of the old counties of Cumberland, Lancashire, and Westmorland. Before modern administrative boundaries were introduced, these three counties converged at this exact spot, giving the stone both geographical and historical importance.

The structure itself is a small but distinctive stone bridge, built to span a stream that flows through the valley. Its simple design reflects the traditional style of Lakeland packhorse routes, which were once vital for transporting goods such as slate and wool across the rugged terrain. Travellers, traders, and farmers would have passed this point regularly, moving between valleys and counties long before modern roads existed.The surrounding landscape of Little Langdale adds to the charm of the site.

Wrynose Valley is a dramatic and historically rich valley in the Lake District, best known for the steep and winding Wrynose Pass that cuts through it. The name “Wrynose” is often interpreted as meaning something like “staggered headland” or “twisting promontory,” reflecting the uneven, rugged shape of the surrounding landscape and the challenging terrain of the pass itself.

In Roman times, this valley formed part of an important overland route used to transport goods and supplies. It connected the Roman fort of Galava at the northern end with the remote but strategically vital Hardknott Roman Fort. From there, the route continued down towards the coast to the Roman port and settlement at Ravenglass, which served as a key link to the wider Roman Empire.

The road over Wrynose and nearby Hardknott Pass is still visible today in places, with sections of Roman paving surviving. It is considered one of the steepest roads in England, highlighting just how determined the Romans were to maintain control and movement across this difficult landscape.

The Wrynose Pass is a mountain pass between the Duddon Valley and Little Langdale. There is a single-track motor road over the pass, which is the second steepest roads in England, with gradients up to 1 in 3. The road continues over Hardknott Pass and on into Eskdale. At the top of the Wrynose Pass is the Three Shire Stone, marking the meeting point of the historic counties of Cumberland, Lancashire and Westmorland.

Hardknott Pass, is the steepest road in England raising 393 meters over 1.4miles with sections reaching gradients of 33%. The pass is considered the most demanding road in England, due to the gradient and number of hairpin bends. Those who take the challenge of the climb are rewarded by the views which go on for miles, looking over Eskdale and across to the Irish Sea - on a clear day you can see over to the Isle of Man.

Technically, the pass is the most direct route from the central Lake District to West Cumbria, built by the Romans. But is described as one of Britain's "most outrageous roads" by The Guardian newspaper, snaking around England's highest peak Scafell Pike and deepest lake Wastwater in the mountainous terrain of the Lake District.

Perched 1,000 feet above sea level. The remains of the once vital link between the Roman settlements of Ravenglass and Ambleside, make an impressive sight, Hardknott fort offers a window into Cumbria’s ancient heritage.

The fort was founded under Hadrian’s rule in the 2nd century, and the remains include the headquarters building, commandant’s house and bath house. The site of the parade ground survives beside the fort, and the road which Hardknott guarded can be traced for some distance.

For centuries Hardknott’s spectacular and remote setting and state of preservation have inspired wonder at the Roman legacy in Britain. The fort’s location was known since the time of Tudor antiquarian William Camden, who wrote about the fort in 1607. Excavations in the late 19th century explored the walls and uncovered the baths. However, much valuable archaeology was taken away by souvenir hunters.

Nestled in the heart of Eskdale, the village of Boot sits where Whillan Beck tumbles down from the waters of Burnmoor Tarn, bringing with it both beauty and history.

This peaceful setting once held a more solemn role: an ancient corpse road crosses Burnmoor, linking Wasdale and Eskdale, as they departed from both valleys they were carried to their final resting place at St Catherine’s Church. Until 1901, when St Olaf’s Church was built in Wasdale, Boot served as the spiritual centre for both communities.

At the edge of the village, the beck passes an old corn mill, reached by a charming 17th-century packhorse bridge, a quiet reminder of Boot’s long-standing rural traditions. Yet beneath its tranquil surface lies an industrial past. In the 1870s, Boot thrived as a mining village, with rich deposits of haematite iron ore extracted from the surrounding hills. The Whitehaven Mining Company transformed the area, constructing a narrow-gauge railway in 1875 to connect Boot with the main line near Ravenglass, serving nearby mines such as Nab Gill and Ghyll Foss.

The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, known by locals as La'al Ratty, meaning little railway in Cumbrian dialect offers a journey that is as historic as it is scenic. Spanning seven miles from the coastal village of Ravenglass to Dalegarth for Boot, it originally opened in 1875 to transport iron ore from the mines of Eskdale. Today, it stands as one of the oldest and longest narrow-gauge railways in the world, boasting a track gauge of just 15 inches.

What makes this line truly remarkable is its transformation; it was the first in the UK to be converted from a 3-foot gauge to a narrow 15-inch gauge in 1915, thanks to the vision of miniature railway pioneer Bassett-Lowke. As the train climbs through the ancient woodlands of the Eskdale Valley, passengers can spot the majestic Scafell Pike in the distance. History buffs should look out for the River Mite and Northern Rock locomotives, which are icons of steam engineering.

Eskdale is not just a dramatic valley of mountains, but also home to a small, peaceful rural community Eskdale village often associated with Boot. It has a quiet, timeless feel, with stone cottages, narrow lanes, and a strong sense of local identity. One of its most famous landmarks is the Woolpack Inn, a historic pub dating back several centuries. It has long been a meeting place for locals, walkers, and visitors, offering a glimpse into traditional Lakeland hospitality.

Because of its more remote, westerly position, Eskdale didn’t receive the same degree of attention from 18th century visitors and industrialists compared it to similar areas withing the valleys due to there more favourable accessibility. Coleridge, however, did pay a visit to Eskdale and wrote passionately about the landscape in his ‘Notebook’ of 1802.

Wastwater is the deepest lake in England stretches to nearly three miles long at the foot of England's highest mountain, Scafell Pike. Wastwater has been named as “Britain’s favourite view” after the public chose from four landscape on a large-scale TV poll. It lies in Wasdale, surrounded by a towering mountain range that creates a striking and rugged landscape. The valley is dominated by some of England’s highest peaks, including Scafell Pike at 978 metres, Scafell at 964 metres, and Great Gable at 899 metres. These mountains rise steeply from the valley floor, giving Wastwater its famous “screes” and dramatic views.

At the head of the valley lies Wasdale Head, a tiny hamlet known for its strong mountaineering heritage. It was home to legendary fell runner Joss Naylor, whose endurance and achievements became famous throughout the UK.

Nearby is St Olaf's Church, often described as the smallest church in England. With its simple stone structure and peaceful setting, it reflects the quiet, remote character of the valley.

Tucked on the edge of the western Lake District, is the village of Gosforth. Home to St Mary's Church

Which within the churchyard has a cork tree planted in 1833, the northernmost of its kind in Britain, enclosed by iron railings as if guarding its rarity - typically such trees would only grow in warmer climates.

The churchyard itself is a remarkable window into the past. Here rises the Gosforth Cross, a striking 10th century monument carved from red sandstone and standing over four metres high. Rich with Norse and Christian symbolism, it tells a fascinating story of cultural blending, where Viking settlers merged their ancient beliefs with the Christianity they encountered. Nearby, a sandstone pillar and cross further echo this unique heritage, making the site one of the most important early medieval locations in England.

St Mary’s Church has stood on this site since the 8th century, evolving through centuries of rebuilding into its present form, with elements dating back to the 12th century. Inside, intricately carved hogback tombstones, thought to honour Viking chieftains, rest alongside the mysterious “Fishing Stone” and ancient cross fragments.

Set between the dramatic landscapes of Wasdale and Eskdale, Holmrook is a village where natural beauty and rich history intertwine. At its heart stands the Lutwidge Arms Hotel, occupying the site of Holmrook Hall Farm. This was once home to the ancestors of Charles Lutwidge Dodgson, better known as Lewis Carroll, the beloved author of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, adding a touch of literary magic to the village’s story.

Flowing nearby is the River Irt, the outflow of Wastwater, England’s deepest lake. Its waters were once famed for freshwater pearls, first discovered by the Romans at Ravenglass. By the 17th century, pearl fishing had become so valuable that a dedicated company paid local villagers to gather mussels and send their treasures to London.

Rising above the village is Muncaster Fell, shaped by ancient glaciers whose retreat carved deep gullies and left behind the landforms that cradle nearby Muncaster Castle. At its base, the River Mite powers Muncaster Mill, a site of industry since 1455.

Ravenglass is a coastal hamlet which lies on the estuary of three rivers; the Esk, the Mite and the Irt. Almost 2000 years ago, the Romans guarded this coast against Barbarian invasion. Their bathhouse can still be seen in the village.

Ravenglass is the starting point for the world-famous narrow-gauge railway known affectionately as La'al Ratty. The regular steam train service meanders its way up the spectacular Eskdale Valley with England's highest mountain - Scafell Pike at the head of the valley.

Muncaster Castle is a great example of one of the Lake District favourite historic houses. The castle, nestled on a majestic vantage point on the coast, is reputedly built on Roman foundations. Whilst the Pennington family have recorded evidence of living at Muncaster since 1208 when lands were granted to Alan de Penitone, some records go back further suggesting that the family may have been here since the 11th century.

The castle is lived in to this day, and the family open the doors to the castle and gardens to share the rich history, we recommend taking a look at the great hall and octagonal library. Muncaster is also known for its numerous ghosts: keep your eyes peeled for the Muncaster Boggle and a malevolent jester known as Tom Fool.

Look to the skyline and you should see Birker Fell, a wild and rugged upland area on the western edge of the Lake District, lying between the dramatic Eskdale Valley and the coastal plain. Rising to just over 1,000 feet, it may not be among the highest fells, but its remote character and expansive views make it a memorable landscape.

Unlike the steep, craggy peaks of the central Lakes, Birker Fell is known for its open moorland, scattered rocky outcrops, and wide horizons. The terrain is shaped by ancient granite, with distinctive tors and boulders giving the fell a raw, weathered appearance. Heather and rough grass dominate the ground, creating a rich tapestry of colour, especially in late summer.

One of the highlights of Birker Fell is Devoke Water, the largest tarn in the Lake District, sitting quietly on the fell’s western side. This peaceful body of water adds to the sense of isolation and is a haven for wildlife.

In the distance, you can see Corney Fell one of the Lake District’s lesser-known but most rewarding viewpoints, offering breathtaking panoramic views across the western fells and out towards the Irish Sea. Reaching a height of around 1,300 feet, it is crossed by a narrow, winding road that links the coastal plain near Calder Bridge with the remote Eskdale Valley.

Unlike the busier mountain passes of the central Lakes, Corney Fell remains quiet and unspoilt, giving visitors a real sense of isolation and wild beauty. As you climb, the landscape opens up dramatically. To the east lie the rugged peaks of Scafell and the surrounding high fells, while to the west the land falls away towards the coastline, where on a clear day you may even catch a glimpse of the Isle of Man on the horizon.

Coniston is a traditional Lakeland village set beside Coniston Water, known for its strong industrial heritage and dramatic mountain backdrop. Unlike some of the Lake District’s more tourist-focused centres, Coniston has a rugged, working history that still shapes its character today.

Coniston Water measures, five miles long and half a mile wide, above its western shore, the mountain of the Old Man of Coniston towers above the lake and the village. The area is known for its rich mining history of copper and slate. Coniston has rich literary links with John Ruskin living in Coniston for his final 30 years and was ultimately buried in the area, his grave can be visited at St Andrews Church. Arthur Ransome also took inspiration from the area surrounding Coniston water for his book Swallows and Amazons. Donald Campbell made history in Coniston breaking 4 world water speed records on the water.

In September 1956 Donald Campbell attempted a world record on Coniston reaching a speed of 225.63 mph (363.12 km/h), followed by 239.07 mph in November 1957 and then 248.62 mph November in 1958. In January 1967 he had a final attempt on Coniston Water trying to achieve 300mph, however, his life ended tragically when he died attempting to reclaim the record. Campbell’s jet-powered hydroplane, Bluebird K7, was recovered from the bed of Coniston Water in 2001 and has since undergone restoration. The restored Bluebird is now displayed in a dedicated wing of the Ruskin Museum.

Once owned by Beatrix Potter, this stunning and historical Grade II listed building is one of the most famous farmhouses in the Lake District. In 1930 following the death of the previous owner James Garth Marshall, his family wished to sell the estate. William Heelis and wife Beatrix Potter were determined that the estate would not be broken up. With some effort they scraped together enough money to buy the entire estate, in the hope that the National Trust would then be able to buy half back off them after raising the necessary funds through public subscription. Fortunately, the couple’s efforts were rewarded. The couple retained Yew Tree Farm in their parcel of land, helping the tenants establish a tearoom in the farm’s parlour. On Beatrix’s death in 1943 she bequeathed fifteen farms and over 4,000 acres to the National Trust, including Yew Tree Farm, a gift which has protected and conserved this unique corner of the Lake District to this day. The building starred as the location of her home, Hilltop, in the film ‘Miss Potter’.