Departing Anchorage
Welcome to the MyAlaskaGuide driving tour from Anchorage to Seward, Alaska! Today, you'll be traveling on the Seward Highway, a jewel among American roads. In 1989, it was honored as a "National Forest Scenic Byway" and is one of just 31 roads in the U.S. to achieve the prestigious "All America Road" status. This isn't just a road trip, it's a front-row seat to breathtaking landscapes, dramatic tides, and potential wildlife encounters.Anchorage, like Seward, began its modern life as a railroad town. Before 1915, at least three local Indigenous groups would migrate here for summer fish camps. There were just 4 homesteads with westerners in the area at that time. Then, Federal Government stepped in to build the second federally funded railroad in U.S. history… the first one was in the Panama Canal! For an in depth look at the history of Anchorage, check out our Anchorage Walking Tour.To get to Seward, we will be heading South. Anchorage is surrounded on 3 sides by water and on the East side it is bordered by the Chugach Mountain Range. If you are heading in the right direction, those mountains should be on your left for the first half of our journey. The narration will play automatically at each point of interest. We'll see you at that next spot!
36th to Tudor Road
You just crossed 36th Avenue marking the last stop light that you will see on your trip today. The Municipality of Anchorage spans over 2000 square miles! To put that into perspective, it's larger than the state of Delaware. The Municipality extends 29 miles north of here to the indigenous community of Eklutna, and as far south as Portage. We will be driving past the southern edge of town on our trip today. Most of the 289000 people who live here, live in the more Urban area known as the Anchorage bowl. The municipality includes most of the Chugach State Park and the Chugach Mountain Range, 7 miles to the East of us, on your left. Here's a fun fact for you - even after you cross the upcoming Tudor Road exit, you'll still officially be in Anchorage for another 47 miles!
Campbell Creek Greenbelt
The bridge up ahead will take you over Campbell Creek. This is one of two green belts that run the length of the city running from the mountains to the ocean. This serves as a path for all the animals that live here in the city. Anchorage is home to 52 mammal species, including black and brown bears, moose, lynx, porcupines, and more. We have anywhere from 300 to 1000 moose in the city depending on the time of year. In the summer, our furry neighbors include over 250 black bears and up to 60 brown bears. We also live side-by-side with lynx, porcupine, wolverines, beavers, eagles, and more! Our motto here is Big. Wild. Life! And we live it!To your left are the Chugach Mountains, with visible peaks ranging from 3,000 to 7,000 feet. Some are easily identifiable, such as the one that has a flat mesa-like top. Aptly named, Flattop Mountain, stands at 3,510 feet. It is the most climbed mountain in Alaska and very popular among locals and visitors. The tallest mountain in the Chugach Range, Mount Markus Baker, stands at 13,094 feet - almost twice as high as the tallest mountains visible from here.
Fox Hollow Sports Dome
The Dome coming up on your left is part of the Fox Hollow Golf Course. When the dome was first put in, locals complained about it being an eyesore and especially how it blocked the view of the mountains. To address this, the owners painted a mountain-scape on its side, helping it blend with the landscape. The outdoor course has 9-holes and is the smallest of the three golf courses in Anchorage. The Sports Dome offers a little something extra for golfers in the cold, white winter months. It has a large indoor driving range as well as a handful of golf simulators.
Rules of the Road
Potter Marsh Pulloff
You are approaching the stunning Potter Marsh. If you're a bird-watcher or a photographer, this place is a real treat! As we round the bend, you'll see the entrance on your left. Look out for a brown road sign and a special left-turn lane to ensure smooth traffic flow. Once there, you'll discover a boardwalk stretching 1,550 feet through the vibrant marsh and sedges. Just a heads up, you might hear gunfire - there's a shooting range nearby. We'll share more about Potter Marsh shortly.
Potter Marsh
On your right is the Cook Inlet where it opens up to the entrance to the Turnagain Arm. We will be traveling along the Turnagain arm for the next 40 miles. On your left is, of course, Potter Marsh. Interestingly, the Marsh isn’t a natural feature, nor was it planned. It was inadvertently created back in 1916 when the construction of the railroad caused a backup of Potter Creek. Today, it's a protected wetland and home to an astonishing variety of birds. The Alaska Audubon Society has identified more than 460 naturally occurring bird species in Alaska, 130 of these species have been identified right here at Potter Marsh, mostly during the summer months.My favorite birds to watch for are the Arctic Terns and Trumpeter Swans. Arctic Terns have a gull-like white body, slim wings and a black cap. They have the longest migration of any bird, traveling from Antarctica to the Arctic each year in search of an endless summer. The graceful Trumpeter Swans are easy to spot with their bright white plumage, large size, and tendency to pair up. They are among the world's heaviest flying birds and typically mate for life. These swans were once hunted to near extinction, with less than 70 left in the wild by 1935. Today, thanks to protective measures, their population has rebounded to approximately 35,000.
Potter Section House (SB)
Coming up on your right is the Potter Creek Section House. If you are a train buff, you may want to take a quick stop here and check out the Alaska Railroad Rotary Snowplow #4 as well as the restored historic home and outbuildings.In 1919, this area was a buzzing construction camp for the Alaska Railroad. The crew had to cut their way through 4 million cubic yards of rocky cliffs south of here to make way for the rails. Once the Railroad was completed, most of the camp was dismantled. This section house was built in 1929. The first foreman, William Potter, and his family lived here. William was responsible for 10 miles of track, making repairs when the track was blocked or damaged by avalanches and rock slides. The house also served as a whistle stop for locals before the road was put in. This is the only section house along the Alaska railroad that is still standing. The Marsh, the house and the creek are all named after William Potter.Most of the section houses became obsolete once the Seward Highway was completed in 1951. However, this house was still in use until 1978. It became a recognized historic site in 1985 and was the Headquarters for the Chugach State Park up until the pandemic.By the way, you have just entered the Chugach State Park. Covering 495,000 acres, this is the fourth largest state park in the United States.
Turnagain Arm
If it is a clear day, look over the water to see the mountains on the horizon. The single, triangle-shaped mountain in the center of the open water is Mount Spurr, an active Volcano. Mount Spurr last erupted in 1992, dusting Anchorage with volcanic ash. It is considered to be the farthest North Mountain in the Aleutian Range, and is part of the ring of fire. To the right of Mount Spurr is the beginning of the Alaska Range. The Alaska Range is not volcanic, but instead has been formed by colliding tectonic plates. Denali, North America’s tallest mountain is not visible from here, but it is also a part of the Alaska RangeThe Turnagain Arm is saltwater. At low tide, you will see what looks like a wide sandy beach and at high tide the arm is filled with water. There should be no people the beach, also known as the mud flats, because it is quite dangerous to walk out there... please don't be tempted!The local Denin’a people called the waterway Tutl-uh (TUT-slow), meaning "backwater." The quirky name of Turnagain Arm was coined by the crew of Captain James Cook, who explored this area in 1778 in search of the legendary Northwest Passage. Cook sent his sailing master, William Bligh, to investigate both the Knik and Turnagain Arms. After finding a river at the end of the Knik Arm, Bligh mistakenly thought the whole thing was a river. He then explored this area, only to find what he thought was another river. Disappointed that they had failed to find the Northwest Passage, and had to turn around, once again, he named this the River Turnagain. It was later renamed the Turnagain Arm as it is certainly not a river. It is, in fact, a fjord. Glaciers from the surrounding mountains once converged into one massive force, carving out a deep fjord here. Over time, glacial silt has filled it in - we'll discuss that further down the road. And if the name William Bligh rings a bell, it's because he later gained notoriety as the captain ousted during the Mutiny on the Bounty.
McHugh Creek
Coming up on your left is the McHugh Creek Recreation Area featuring a 20-foot waterfall and numerous hiking trails. This was a railroad construction camp until 1917. If you look high up on the slope, you’ll see evidence of the 2016 McHugh Fire. This fire played out like an action movie. 778 acres burned before firefighters were able to contain it. The communities of Rainbow and the Potter were in peril. The 45-degree slope and dry conditions presented a huge obstacle in containing it. In addition to hundreds of firefighters, they used airplanes to spread fire retardants and helicopters to scoop up water in giant buckets the Turnagain Arm to drop on the steep sections. The drama included burning trees rolling down the cliffs and falling onto the road and railroad tracks. We were lucky that it was contained before reaching the nearby neighborhoods. If you go for a hike here, please be bear aware. This is a State Park, so there is a $5 fee for parking.
Beluga Point Southbound
Up ahead, there is a rocky outcrop on the right with a spacious pull-out area and parking. This is Beluga Point, one of our favorite spots for taking photos on the journey to Seward.Beluga Point has an intriguing history. It was once a hunting ground for Alaska's Indigenous people, who hunted Beluga whales and caribou here. Archaeologists have discovered artifacts from multiple Indigenous groups, indicating that this area was used for hunting from as far back as 10,000 years ago until about 1,000 years ago. If you decide to explore, be careful on the uneven paths.From mid-July to early September, we often spot Beluga whales in the Turnagain Arm. They follow the salmon runs up to our local creeks during high tide. Occasionally, you might even see an Orca whale in pursuit of the Belugas! Adult Beluga whales are pearly white, while their young are gray. They look like giant marshmallows popping up out of the water. These toothed whales are most closely related to the Narwhal, also known as the unicorn of the sea. These Belugas are part of the Cook Inlet population. They are smaller and genetically distinct from other pods globally. There are just over 300 of these unique Cook Inlet Belugas, and they're considered endangered.And just a quick sidenote: Beluga Caviar does not come from Beluga whales. It comes from the Beluga Sturgeon fish, which has a white belly. In Russian, 'Beluga' means white.
Rainbow Valley and Hope Southbound
This area is called Rainbow Valley, named for the rainbows often seen in the waterfall mist here. Back in 1898, it was local miners who gave it this delightful name.During the railroad construction, this was a bustling hub. There was a section house here and it served as a whistle stop on the rail for early homesteaders. Around 30 homes still dot the area today, offering a semi-secluded lifestyle just a short commute from Anchorage.Across the water, nestled in the wide U-shaped valley, you can spot a few buildings. That's the historic town of Hope, Alaska. Today, it's home to 193 people, but a century ago, over 3000 gold prospectors lived there. Gold was discovered as early as 1888, sparking a gold rush to this region.When it came to naming the settlement, the miners decided to name it after the next person to step off the boat. That turned out to be a 19-year-old named Percy Hope. And just like that, the town had its name. Percy Hope didn't stick around for long, but the name "Hope" seems fitting for a place where so many people came seeking their fortune.The gold rush glory days of Hope ended when news of the Klondike gold rush arrived. But a handful of miners stayed on, working their claims and maintaining the town. During the 9.2 earthquake in 1964, part the town sank 8 feet and was swamped by the resulting tsunami, resulting in the loss of some original buildings. However, many were saved and relocated further from the water.Today, Hope retains much of its gold rush charm. It's a popular spot for salmon fishing, biking, and hiking. There are still private gold claims, and if you're feeling lucky, bring a pan and a shovel and you can try your hand at gold panning in Resurrection Creek, a public gold panning area.
Windy Corner and Dall Sheep
Here's another heads-up! The Windy Corner pullout is coming up on your right. This is a fantastic spot to watch for Dall Sheep. If you notice a crowd gazing and pointing at the hills, that’s a good sign that the sheep are in view! They favor this area given the food availability and safety offered by the steep cliffs. Female sheep, or ewes, have their lambs near these cliffs, and the little ones can navigate the steep slopes within hours of birth. These sheep belong to a large herd that resides in Chugach State Park.Dall Sheep have horns, not antlers like moose or caribou. Their horns, made of keratin (the same stuff as your fingernails), are permanent and grow throughout their lives. You can even tell a sheep's age by counting the rings on its horns, which form as growth slows in winter and speeds up in warmer months. Ewes have short, spiky horns that can sometimes lead to them being mistaken for mountain goats. However, the males, or rams, develop their distinctive full curl after about 8 years.During the mating season, rams occasionally lock horns over the ewes, or they might just size each other up. If one ram's horns clearly outsize the other's, the smaller-horned ram usually retreats without a fight.Rams typically weigh around 180 pounds, and ewes about 110 pounds. If you decide to stop for photos, remember, they might look peaceful, but they're wild animals. You wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of those horns!
Indian Alaska
The community of Indian began as a gold mining claim when prospector Peter Strong discovered a quartz vein here in the early 1900s. This historic cabin is one of the oldest structures in the area. For a fee, you pan for gold here or visit their mini museum. Peter Strong arrived in the North in 1898 for the Klondike Gold Rush. He dug at least three mine shafts here, finding both tungsten and gold. He also found placer gold in the creek, that is the kind of gold that you find with a gold pan. The creek is now a popular fishing spot as well. by 1909, there was a roadhouse here serving prospectors and postal workers traveling on foot, by horseback, or by dogsled along the original Iditarod trail from Seward all the way to Nome. In 1964, after the earthquake swamped the town of Portage, the state gave up some Chugach State Park land here to the displaced residents.
Bird Creek
We are approaching Bird Creek, another local fishing spot. We see salmon here starting in late July. This area is so popular that the state had to expand the parking area to handle the crowd. During peak fishing times, fishermen will line the silty banks shoulder to shoulder, a phenomenon known as "combat fishing." In addition to the dangers of fishing hooks flying all around, anglers need the be bear-aware as they also like to fish here. Occasionally, we’ll see pictures in the paper of bears mingling with the fishermen, prompting the Department of Fish and Game to intervene.There is a bike trail along this road that starts in Indian and continues all the way to Girdwood, about 12 miles each-way. Bird Creek is also a great place to go camping, and even has two forest service cabins, if you prefer "glamping," which is short for “glamourous camping.” Of course, the term glamourous is subjective. These cabins cost $100 a night and come complete with a propane heater, though you do need to bring your own propane. The beds are wooden platforms, so you'll need sleeping pads and bags for comfort. There is a wooden table and bench for your meals and a fire ring outside for your evening gathering. There is no running water or electricity. The public privy is a short walk away. Alaska has about 200 public service cabins, many of them require that you hike, bike, ski, or hire a water taxi to access them. The cabins at Bird Creek are some of the easiest to reach. But, regardless of how far the trek is to reach a cabin, they are extremely popular, year-round, often booked up months in advance.
Avalanche Alley
You're now entering Avalanche Alley, a long, straight section of road with steep slopes and heavy snowfall, making it highly prone to avalanches. When snow depth becomes a concern, the Alaska Railroad uses a 105 mm howitzer to trigger controlled avalanches. This method aims to keep tracks and road clear by causing small, manageable avalanches rather than risking a large, natural one.There are two main types of avalanches: loose snow avalanches and slab avalanches. Loose snow avalanches start at a single point with a small amount of snow, which gains momentum and brings down more and more material as it grows, while slab avalanches occur when a large, cohesive slab of snow breaks away. Both can be dangerous. We typically see the loose snow variety here.The bike path that we mentioned earlier is on your left. You'll notice that it is raised above road level in this area. Initially, the path was level with the road. It was eventually elevated to help contain the avalanches on that side of the road. This has been largely successful in keeping the road and tracks clear, but avalanches can still occasionally block traffic for a few hours or, in rare cases like in 2000, a few days. You can often see evidence of avalanches at the bottom of the slope, even in summer.
Bird Point, Rest Stop, Bore Tide
Ahead on your right is another great optional photo stop with rustic public restrooms! The Bird Point Scenic Overlook features striking a Beluga whale pod sculpture rising from the concrete path. A trail leads you to an overlook of the Turnagain Arm, with interpretive signs along the way. If the tide is high and fish are running, you might even spot some Beluga whales. There is a $5 parking fee.Bird Point is also a fantastic spot to view our famous Bore Tide. This natural phenomenon occurs a few days each month when we have extreme minus tides. Then the fast flowing outgoing tide meets the rushing incoming tide, creating a wave that can reach 6-10 feet high and travel at 15 miles per hour along the 47-mile arm. The largest Bore Tides happen during a full or new moon. The bore tide is a predictable event with accurate times and dates available on-line to those interested in seeing it or even riding it. Spectators delight in the sight of local surfers lined up to ride the wave that spans the width of the arm. The Turnagain Arm is one of only 60 places in the world where you can witness a tidal bore. The area has also being considered for tidal power generation due to its unique tidal activity.
Glacial Silt
As we mentioned earlier, low tide exposes vast expanses of beach. Unlike a typical sand beach, however, these are treacherous glacial silt flats. The terrain is made up of glacier silt or glacial flour and is unstable and unpredictable.The silt is produced by slow-moving glaciers that grind rocks into a powder, finer than flour, as they travel down mountains. This silt can float in freshwater, turning glacially-fed rivers cloudy and making still water lakes reflect jewel-like colors. However, once the silt reaches salt water, it sinks to the ocean floor.Walking on these silt flats can cause a phenomenon called liquefaction, where the ground's consistency changes to something like quicksand. The danger isn't sinking and disappearing, but rather sinking enough to get stuck. The silt can harden like cement, and it requires special equipment to free you.This would be less concerning if not for the area's dramatic tides - we have the second-highest tide differential in North America, with about 30-fee between low tide and high tide. Once stuck, people have tragically lost their lives on these mud flats due to the swiftly incoming tide and icy waters. So, despite the beauty of the beach, it's important to stay off the mud flats for your own safety.
Ghost Forest
Just past this bend in the road is the Ghost Forest of Girdwood, rumored home of the elusive sasquatch. These standing dead trees are a haunting reminder of the devastating 1964, 9.2 earthquake. The quake, which lasted for almost 5 minutes, caused the silt in this area to settle, sinking 6 to 8 feet. The tsunami that followed, soaked the roots of these trees with saltwater, killing them instantly. About 7-feet of sediments have been deposited here since the earthquake, so what you are seeing is actually the middle part of these trees. Some people called them the silent dogwoods… because they have no bark! We will see more of these trees as we continue down the Arm.
Girdwood Alaska
Welcome to Girdwood! The gas station up ahead is your last chance for gas and a flushing toilet until Seward. If you have time, Girdwood is worth a stop. Turn left onto Alyeska Highway just before the gas station to explore.The town used to be along the Turnagain Arm but was relocated 2.5 miles up Alyeska Highway after sinking during the earthquake. Today, some homes have been rebuilt by the water, but they can't be insured or bought with loans, so they sell for cash only.Girdwood began as a gold mining town. It was originally called Glacier City. It was renamed after Colonel James Girdwood, an Irish immigrant who made his fortune in New York before moving to Alaska to chase gold. He staked claims on Crow Creek in 1896 and hired workers who admired him so much that they eventually renamed the town after him.Alyeska Resort, about 4 miles from the highway, is Alaska’s premier ski destination. The base elevation is just 250 feet above sea level. Known for heavy snowfall, Alyeska get an average of 669 inches of snow annually.
Glacier's and Glacier Valley's
I hope that you are enjoying the scenery of all of mountains and valleys that surround us! These giant U-shaped valleys tell the story of past glaciation.Glaciers form when snow accumulates and compresses into dense ice, slowly flowing downhill like a slow-moving river. This grinding and shaping process creates U-shaped valleys with steep walls and flat bottoms, a clear sign of glacial activity.In contrast, river valleys, carved over thousands or millions of years by flowing water, typically have a V-shape with gently sloping sides and a narrow bottom. You may see both types of valleys across the water.Alaska boasts about 34,000 square miles of glaciers, roughly the size of Maine. Out of an estimated 100,000 glaciers, only 600 have names. Today, you might see hanging glaciers in the mountains or tidewater glaciers if you're cruising out of Seward or Whittier. Hanging glaciers cling to mountainsides, while tidewater glaciers end in a body of saltwater.Glaciers are either advancing or retreating. An advancing glacier is, as the name implies, moving forward. A retreating glacier is not moving backward, but instead is breaking or calving off of the front of the glacier faster than it is moving forward. Most of Alaska’s glaciers are retreating at this time.
Chugach National Forest - SB
We are about to leave Chugach State Park and enter Chugach National Forest. At 5.4 million acres, Chugach National Forest is the second-largest national forest in the United States. The largest is also in Alaska—Tongass National Forest, with 17 million acres.
20-Mile River
The 20-Mile River, fed by glaciers, flows under the bridge up ahead and into the Turnagain Arm. This area is a hub for springtime fishermen, eager to dip their nets for hooligan, a smelt species. Hooligan are also known by Alaska Native people as "candle fish," because if you dry them and insert a wick, they will burn like candles. The fish are quite oily, in fact 15% of their body weight is fat. Their timely arrival in early spring, provided a vital calorie boost after a harsh winter, earning them another nickname, "Salvation Fish." This spot is a bustling area, serving as both a launch point for boats and a landing point for rafts.
Old Portage, Train Station and Wildlife Conservation Center
This area used to be the town of Portage. The 1964 earthquake and tsunami laid the town to ruins. Sometimes you can see remnants of buildings among the bushes on the right. On your left, you'll see the old Portage Train Station. This station was once a critical stop for anyone venturing to Whittier, Alaska.Ahead on the right is Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. This place has amazing photo opportunities of our local wildlife. The center takes in injured and orphaned animals year-round, providing them with a safe haven and quality care. If you have time to stop, Plan to spend at least an hour here – it's worth every minute! There is an entrance fee, of course.
Turn Off To Whittier and Portage Lake
Turn Off!
Placer River
We are crossing the Placer River. The Placer River flows from Spencer Glacier and empties into the Turnagain Arm. The term placer describes the type of gold found in the streams up here. It is gold that has been eroded off of a lode, or gold vein and washed downstream. It is found as gold dust, flakes and nuggets. We will talk about gold mining a little further down the road.The Placer River wetlands line the highway here. In the summer, this is a good spot to be looking for moose as they dine on the Yellow Pond Lilies and other aquatic plants., especially at dawn and dusk.The roots, young leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible for people too. The roots and young leaves can have a bitter flavoring, however many have discovered that the taste becomes much more mild depending on when you harvest them.The seeds are the sweetest treat. You can eat these raw, or cook them in soups and other dishes. They can generally be used in the same way that you would use corn or peas.The seeds were frequently collected by native Americans as a nutritious raw food source. They were also used in the making of bread by grinding the seeds to create a flour.In the winter, this is great place to snow machine. You can follow this wide flat glacier valley all the way to the foot of spencer glacier.
Kenai Penisula Photo Op
Kenai Sign: Up ahead you'll see the “Welcome to Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula” Sign. Once you have passed it, you will have completed crossing the isthmus that connects South Central Alaska to the Kenai Peninsula. There is a passing lane for the next 5 miles. Enjoy your ascent up to Turnagain Pass. Our next piece of narration will be in about 7 miles, when you reach the pass.
Turnagain Pass
As you travel through Turnagain Pass, you'll be driving along the bottom of one of those unique U-shaped glacial valleys we mentioned earlier.This area is spectacular in both winter and summer. At 900 feet above sea level, Turnagain Pass is the highest point along the Seward Highway. In winter, it receives about 12 feet of snow, making it a favorite spot for skiing and snowmachining. If you're planning a winter adventure, check the Chugach Avalanche Center website for conditions before hitting the trails. The left side of the highway is for non-motorized activities like skiing and snowshoeing, while the right side is for snowmachines.In summer, Turnagain Pass offers beautiful hiking trails that start from parking areas on both sides of the highway. The wildflowers are stunning, with varieties like lupine, wild geraniums, fireweed, chocolate lilies, and more.If you look out at the mostly flat valley, you'll notice hills interrupting the landscape. These are glacial moraines. Glaciers push rocks at their edges like a plow, creating terminal moraines. When two glaciers merge, they churn rocks between them, forming medial moraines. When glaciers retreat, these piles of debris are left behind. The hills here remind us of the giant ice mass that once covered this entire pass!Camping is also popular in the Chugach National Forest. Campsites cost $14 and can be reserved online. They often include amenities like water, toilets, and fire pits. Stay vigilant for wildlife, especially bears and moose, as you enjoy the natural beauty of Turnagain Pass.
Bertha Creek Gold Discovery
The Bertha Creek Campground coming up on your right used to be a commercial gold claim. It was named after a prospector’s daughter back in 1902. This NP area is now available for recreational panning up to the junction of Granite Creek in the non-vegetated creek bed areas. Granite creek is a salmon baring stream, so no panning allowed there. As you make your way through the camp, You can see the tailings left over from the former gold operations. People have found gold pieces up to 1/4 inch long here. Occasionally, you can find quartz with pyrite cubes, also known as fools gold. When early prospectors found gold, they'd use a gold pan to test a creek. If they found enough gold in a single pan, they'd stake a claim. This involved marking the land with wooden stakes and hiking to the nearest town to register it. The lucky discoverer got 500 feet along the river, while additional claims were 250 feet each. Claims were numbered based on their distance from the discovery claim - "1 above", "2 above" or "1 below" and so on.Once settled, miners prepared for the harsh winter ahead. When the ground froze, they'd start digging. Gold, being 18 times heavier than water and 6 times heavier than other materials in a river, typically settles at bedrock. To reach it, miners would light fires to thaw the frozen ground, dig until they hit frost again, and repeat. This process continued all winter, with the excavated dirt piled up as "paydirt".Come spring thaw, miners would process their paydirt using a sluice box - essentially a long ramp with ridges called riffles. They'd pour the dirt in at the top and wash it down with water. The heavy gold would get caught in the riffles, while the lighter materials washed away, leaving piles called "tailings". Finally, they'd pan out the material caught in the riffles to see if their winter's work had paid off. It was a grueling process, but later innovations made it easier and more efficient.
Moose Crossing
Have you noticed the moose crossing signs along the highway? Keep an eye out for moose! These massive animals are a real road hazard in Alaska. They tend to be solitary animals, however, if you see a female moose (called a cow) dash across the road, slow down - her calf might be right behind her. In fall, a male moose (called a bull) might be chasing her!Even when moose are standing still, you need to be cautious. Do not approach them for a better picture! They can be grumpy and very protective of their young. Moose have been known to charge at people, cars, and even planes when they feel threatened.Here's a fun fact: Alaska has a unique roadkill salvage program. Residents can sign up to receive meat from moose killed in vehicle collisions. If they can remove the moose within two hours, it's theirs. I know a family in Fairbanks that's gotten a moose this way every year for the past few years!Bull moose grow impressive antlers, up to 70 inches wide. Unlike horns, antlers are made of bone. They grow in the spring and summer and fall off, or shed, in the winter. When growing, they're covered in a brown fuzzy "velvet" full of blood vessels to help the antlers grow quickly. In fall, these capillaries die off and it gets itchy. The moose rub their antlers on trees to remove the velvet, revealing their iconic white antlers just in time for mating season.Moose are built for Alaska's tough environment. Their long legs help them wade through deep snow and water, and their thick coats keep them warm. In summer, you might spot them in wetlands munching on sodium-rich plants or cooling off in lakes to escape mosquitoes.Spotting these magnificent animals is a highlight of any Alaskan trip. Just remember: admire from a safe distance.
Canyon Creek Rest Stop
On your right is the Canyon Creek Rest Area, your last chance at easy access restrooms until you reach Seward. Note that the latrines are rather rustic here, but the view makes this a worthy picture stop.
Hope Turnoff
As you pass over this bridge, look to your left to see the remnants of the old bridge, a wild narrow ride in its day.HOPERemember that town called Hope that we saw from across the Turnagain Arm? The road to Hope is on your right. If you want to visit this charming little town, it's 17 miles down the road and will take about 45 minutes to reach.The road we're on follows the original stagecoach route between Seward and Hope. Back then, the journey took several days, so travelers stayed at roadhouses along the way, which are long gone now.Hope's gold rush glory days ended when news of the Klondike gold rush arrived, but a few miners stayed on, working their claims and maintaining the town. During the 1964 earthquake, part of the town sank 8 feet and was swamped by a tsunami, destroying some buildings. However, a few were saved and moved away from the shoreline.Today, Hope retains much of its gold rush charm. It's a popular spot for salmon fishing, biking, and hiking. There are still private gold claims, and if you're feeling lucky, bring a pan and a shovel to try your hand at gold panning in Resurrection Creek, a public gold panning area.To get a feel for life over 100 years ago, wander past some of the town's historical buildings, visit the museum, and enjoy a meal at the former Seaview Cafe, now known as the Historic Cafe and Campground. Just a heads-up, there's no gas station, so plan accordingly.
Lauritsen Cabin
Let me tell you about a fascinating piece of Alaskan history just off the beaten path right here. It is known as the Lauritsen Cabin and it is a testament to Alaska’s gold rush era.Built before 1900 by Louis H. Lauritsen, a Danish immigrant born in 1869, this cabin is possibly the oldest in the Canyon Creek drainage. Lauritsen first staked his claim here in 1898, during the height of the gold rush fever that swept through the area.The cabin is a great example of Northern European craftsmanship. Picture hand-hewn logs expertly dovetailed at the corners, a curved ridgepole perfectly fitted to the roof's peak, and walls rounded on the outside but flat on the inside. Lauritsen’s cabin was small, to make it easier to heat, just 27 by 13 feet. He used cloth and caribou skin for chinking between the logs.If you'd like to see this piece of history for yourself, here's how to get there: Turn into the state gravel pit coming up on your left (at about milepost 47). You can park there and then walk the quarter mile down a rough road leading to Lake Creek. Before you cross the creek, take a left turn on the trail, and it will lead you right to the cabin.The cabin has seen its share of colorful characters. Jack and Polly Renner, famous claim owners in their own right, stayed here around 1898. Jack and Louis became partners in later years, successfully mining the area together. Lauritsen died in 1924, likely in this very cabin, after years of working various claims in many of the places that we’ve driven by today.In 2002, the U.S. Forest Service breathed new life into the old structure. During the restoration, workers made some intriguing discoveries: a child's pencil drawing of a horse and wagon on the wall, a hidden storage space under the floor, and even some 1917 graffiti from a U.S.G.S. surveyor on the back of a door.In 1979, the cabin was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, recognizing its significance in the story of Alaska's gold rush. Today, the Lauritsen Cabin stands as more than just a relic of the past, it holds within its walls the big dreams and hard work of those who came seeking their fortunes in the last frontier.So, as we drive by, take a moment to look at the landscape around you and imagine the lives of those early miners, braving the Alaskan wilderness in pursuit of gold. The Lauritsen Cabin is a tangible link to that adventurous spirit that still defines Alaska today.
Lower Summit Lake Area
As we approach Lower Summit Lake, you'll notice we're entering a unique area within the Chugach National Forest. This is one of the few pockets of privately held land, a remnant from the gold rush era. While there aren't many permanent homes here, you might spot some charming seasonal cabins dotting the landscape.Here's an interesting tidbit: the cabins around Summit Lake have no running water. This means outhouses are a necessity. The clever cabin owners have come up with some creative solutions. For instance, many make their toilet seats out of blue foam insulation. It might sound odd, but it's much more comfortable in the frigid Alaskan winters as the insulation doesn’t conduct the cold! They also often keep a tin can handy for burning toilet paper. This isn't just for convenience - it helps the outhouse last longer by reducing what goes into the hole.The Chugach National Forest is an outdoor enthusiast's paradise, boasting over 500 miles of established trails. Some of these trails are accessible right here in this area. In winter, this is a haven for backcountry skiers. But here's the catch - there are no ski lifts here. There used to be a rope tow, but it is long gone! Now if you want to ski you have to "earn your turns," as the locals say. This means hiking up the mountain on your own two feet before enjoying the thrill of skiing down. It's a true Alaskan adventure!
Upper Summit Lake Avalanche Area
You should see the red and white crossing gates ahead. These are avalanche barriers, not railroad crossings. We have them all along the Seward Highway in avalanche-prone areas. During high-risk periods, officials close the roads as they bring down controlled avalanches.As we pass by Upper Summit Lake, look to the hillside, and you'll see a series of electrical poles. On steeper sections, you might spot wooden structures surrounding these poles. These cleverly designed shields protect the poles from avalanches. They're shaped like the prow of a ship on the uphill side, meant to split an avalanche in two, guiding the snow around the poles without knocking them down.This 258-acre lake is a haven for fishing enthusiasts and nature lovers. It's home to naturally occurring Dolly Varden and has been regularly stocked with rainbow trout since 1967. The Tenderfoot Campground is on the other side of the lake. Campers here enjoy not only fishing but also frequent wildlife sightings on the lake. Keep your eyes peeled for the loons, beavers, bald eagles, and swans that call this area home.
Spruce Beetle Kill
As you may have noticed, the dead and dying trees around here are quite different from the ghost trees along Turnagain Arm.Spruce Bark Beetles are wreaking havoc on the spruce forests of the Kenai Peninsula and South Central Alaska. The infestation is severe, leading to large swaths of standing dead trees, which increases wildfire risks, alters wildlife habitats, and impacts local economies. Efforts are underway to control this destructive pest.Various initiatives have been undertaken to tackle this crisis, including thinning spruce stands and removing infested trees.The Spruce Bark Beetle kills spruce trees by burrowing under the bark to lay eggs. When the larvae hatch, they feed on the tree's inner bark, disrupting its ability to transport nutrients and water to it’s needles, leading to its death. Warmer temperatures and dry summers may be accelerating the beetles life cycle and survival rates, resulting in larger beetle populations and more extensive tree damage. Lack of accessible water during drier summers, reduce the trees ability to protect itself by producing sap. In the last few years we have seen more rain in this area and the spread of the Spruce beetle has declined, unlike in the Denali Park region, which has been seeing more damage in recent years
Tern Lake
Welcome to Tern Lake, a hidden gem along the Seward Highway! As we approach, you'll see this beautiful body of water on your right, nestled at the intersection of the Seward and Sterling highways. If you have time, the best wildlife viewing experience is accessed by taking the Sterling highway to the old campground behind the lake. The campground closed in the 1990’s due to budget cuts, but there is still a picnic area, outhouse, and trash cans. There is a small viewing platform over the water too. It will take you a little out of your way as you’ll have to backtrack to this point to continue to Seward.Still, Tern Lake, named for the Arctic Terns that nest here in the summer, is a wildlife enthusiast's paradise. From May to June, you might spot Arctic terns, mew gulls, and trumpeter swans flocking here to nest and feed. If you have binoculars, stop and look for black bears foraging in the mountain meadows, and Dall sheep and mountain goats roaming the slopes.As dusk falls, beavers and muskrats make their appearance. And if you're here in late July, you're in for a treat - that's when sockeye salmon begin their spawning journey in force.
Trail Lake Fish Hatchery
The state of Alaska founded and initially managed Trail Lakes Hatchery, which was established in 1982. In 1988, the state formed a public-private partnership with CIAA to operate the hatchery and the Bear Lake Weir located near Seward. CIAA assumed financial responsibility and operational control of both facilities, while ownership remains with the state.Trail Lakes has a permitted capacity of 30 million sockeye eggs, 6 million coho eggs, and 4 million chinook salmon eggs. The hatchery's production primarily focuses on sockeye and coho salmon. This facility has consistently played a crucial role in supporting salmon fisheries throughout the Cook Inlet area.Though officially named Upper Trail Lake, this lake is also known as Mad Sally Lake. Back in the 1930’s, a reclusive and mysterious miner lived in the area. He never spoke to anyone, but was accompanied everywhere he went by a white cat. He paid for all of his goods with gold nuggets and many people tried to find out where his gold claim was. He came into town for goods one day and was attacked by someone who was after his gold. It is said that the cat viciously defended the silent man and the villain had to give up. The miner then called the cat to him, saying just one word, “Sally.” That was the only time anyone ever heard him speak. Locals called this Mad Sally Lake after that incident. The miner disappeared shortly after that, never coming back into town again.
Moose Pass & the Water Wheel
Welcome to Moose Pass. Moose Pass is a quaint town located in Alaska's Kenai Peninsula Borough. Prospectors panning for gold first discovered the area in the early 1900s. As the gold rush waned, it served as a simple trading post for miners traveling between Seward and Hope - this was before Anchorage was even put on the map! Moose Pass was also a vital part of the original Iditarod Trail. The town's name has an interesting backstory, involving a moose that clashed with a mail carrier and his dog team. Since then, the place has been affectionately known as Moose Pass.The Large working water wheel on the west side of the road was built in 1978 by Ed Estes, a local resident since 1921. The water wheel is a replica of one that Ed's father built in 1920 and is a tribute to him now. A sign next to the water wheel reads, “Moose Pass is a peaceful little town. If you have an ax to grind, do it here.” The water wheel is connected to and turns a public grinding stone for those who have tools or knives that need sharpening.
Alaska Nellie
The Railroad attracted some interesting characters to this area and one of the most famous was Nellie Neal Lawing, AKA Alaska Nellie! She was a true legend of the Last Frontier! Born Nellie Neal in Missouri, she came to Alaska in 1915 following her passion of hunting big game.Nellie was a woman of many talents. She could hunt, trap, cook, and run a mean roadhouse. In 1916, she was the first woman to win a government contract on the Alaska Railroad. With Uncle Sam backing her, she opened a roadhouse along the Alaska Railroad at Mile 45, in a place that she called Grandview! The name stuck, and today, Grandview is still accessible as a remote whistle stop on the Alaska Railroad between here and Girdwood.Now, Nellie wasn't just about serving meals and providing beds. She was an adventure seeker with a heart of gold. One winter, during a fierce blizzard, a mail carrier went missing. Without hesitation, Nellie hitched up her dog team and set out into the storm. She found the poor fellow nearly frozen and brought him back to safety. Then, in true Alaska Nellie style, she finished delivering his mail herself! The town of Seward was so impressed, they declared her a hero and gave her a gold nugget necklace.In 1923, Nellie settled near here at a roadhouse on Kenai Lake with her husband Bill Lawing. They turned it into quite the attraction - part restaurant, part wildlife museum. Nellie's hunting skills were legendary, and her trophy collection was so big it filled two entire train cars!But here's the kicker - Nellie didn't just display her stuffed animals. She kept live bear cubs as pets in her museum! Imagine walking into a roadhouse and seeing a real, live bear cub?Nellie's fame spread far and wide. Her guest book read like a Who's Who of the early 20th century. She hosted two U.S. Presidents, the Prince of Bulgaria, and even Will Rogers. People came from all over to hear her wild stories and taste her famous strawberry pies.Alaska Nellie lived life to the fullest, embracing every adventure the Last Frontier had to offer. She was tough as nails, kind as can be, and always ready with a tale that would make your eyes pop. Though the road house is now gone, the area is still known as Lawing. You may even spy the road that led to her place on the eastern edge of Kenai Lake.
Kenai Lake & Salmon
We are driving alongside the breathtaking Kenai Lake! This stunning body of water is known for its remarkable features. Stretching an impressive 24 miles long, Kenai Lake boasts a unique Z-shape, formed by glacial activity during the last ice age. As massive glaciers carved through the landscape, they created this deep, fjord-like lake with its distinctive bends and turns.The surface of the lake is at 433 feet above sea level, however the lake is 569 feet deep in places, which puts the bottom of the lake at 136 feet below sea level!Its mesmerizing blue-green color is a result of glacial silt that is suspended in the water reflecting sunlight.This picturesque lake, nestled among majestic mountains, offers great photo opportunities and the new road has a few places where you can pull over safely.Kenai Lake is fed by snow river and in turn feeds the Kenai river. Known locally as simply “The Kenai,” the river is famous for its run of red salmon in July. These salmon swim upstream to spawn here in the lake, completing their amazing life cycle.While we are on the subject, let’s talk about Alaska's 5 types of salmon. We have different names for them up here. I use my hand to remember them: first of all, Your thumb is your “chum,” also known as a dogfish, man’s best friend. Chum meat is soft and not as palatable to humans as the other types of salmon. Alaska’s Indigenous People would historically dry and smoke Chum to feed their dog teams all winter long, which is how it got the nickname dog fish. Your next finger is your pointer finger and if poke your neighbor in the eye, their eye will turn “red.” Another name for this fish is the sockeye, but we just call them Reds here. Your “tall man” or middle finger is the King as it is the largest finger and the largest fish. In the lower 48 states, they are called Chinook. Your ring finger might have a ring on it, we use this finger to remember the “silver salmon,” also called a coho. And Your pinky is the “pink, also known as a HumpySalmon have an incredible journey. They're born in freshwater, swim to the ocean, then return to the exact same stream where they were born when it is their turn to spawn. When they enter freshwater again, they stop eating and start to change. They turn red and get hooked noses. We call these "spawned out" fish.Fishing is a big deal here. You probably think of fishing in the traditional sense, with a rod and reel, and we certainly do that, but Alaskans also get to do something special called dip-netting for about 2 weeks at the end of July when the reds are running in the rivers here. We use 5-foot nets on 20 foot long poles to catch salmon from the beach or dip them out of the river with a smaller net right into our boats. There are strict rules about how many red salmon that we can catch this way which is 25 fopr the head of house hold and an additional 10 for every member of the household. That makes a limit of 55 salmon for our family of 4. It's a fun Alaskan tradition that fills our freezers with delicious salmon for the year!If you go fishing while you're here, many places can package and ship your catch back home for you. It's a great way to enjoy a taste of Alaska long after your trip!
Snow River and Lost Lake Run
The Snow River is a 28-mile (45 km) tributary of Kenai Lake along with nearby Primrose Creek. These are excellent examples of a glacially fed braided river, with the water weaving between sand and gravel bars.The Iditarod National Historic Trail stretches 938 miles from Seward to Nome. The trail was forged with dogsleds by early Seward resident, Alfred Lowell and Jujiro Wada, a Japanese adventurer, in the early 1900’s. Largely a winter trail, the Iditarod ran up the Snow Valley here and traversed the shore of Kenai Lake. Once airplanes were introduced to the area in the late 1920’s, the trail became obsolete.Today this area is associated with the Lost Lake Run, a fundraiser for Cystic Fybrosis.
Kenai Mtns - Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area
Coming up on your left is a scenic pullout showcasing the Kenai Mountains-Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area. This special region stretches from Indian to Seward and Whittier to Cooper Landing, preserving a rich tapestry of Alaskan history. You'll see breathtaking valley and mountain views, and find informative signs about the area's heritage. The corridor follows ancient indigenous trading routes that evolved into the Iditarod trail, railroad, and even the highway we're on today. Take a moment to learn about the Chugach people and the significant Native Claims Settlement Act if pause at this beautiful spot.
Divide
Welcome to Divide, a unique spot along our journey at 694 feet above sea level. This area gets its name from an interesting geographical feature - it's a watershed divide. Any rain or snow that falls to the south of here will eventually make its way to Seward's Resurrection Bay, while precipitation north of here flows into Kenai Lake and ultimately into Anchorage's Cook Inlet. It's nature's own way of drawing a line!Divide also has a fascinating history as a ski area. Back in 1939, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) cleared this area for skiing, with guidance from the Seward Ski Club and the Chugach National Forest. For a decade, from 1939 to 1949, this spot was a popular downhill ski destination for Seward residents.Picture a crisp winter day in 1941. The Seward Ski Club has just finished building a cozy shelter cabin. Skiers are zooming down the slopes, pulled uphill by a rope tow powered by a Model A Ford engine! On busy weekends, up to 50 skiers would gather here. Club members would prepare the slopes, arrange firewood, and even set up lunch for the hungry skiers. During World War II, soldiers from the nearby Army base joined in, using the area for both training and recreation.Use of the area wanned after the war and, in 1949, the ski club sold the rope tow to a new ski area in Juneau for $50. The old club cabin was burned down by vandals in 1959. Despite this, Divide continues to be a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts from Seward. It is now a popular cross country ski area managed by a group of volunteers. The trails are professionally groomed and offer a variety of terrain for skiers of all ability levels.
Bear Lake and Bear Weir
We are about to cross over Bear Creek, a glacial stream that starts just 3 miles east of here at the foot of Bear Glacier. This creek also marks the boundary of the Chugach National Forest, which stretches north all the way to Girdwood.What makes Bear Creek special is the Bear Creek Weir. A weir is like a fish checkpoint that helps us keep track of our salmon. It's been here since 1963, even before the nearby Trail Lakes Hatchery was built.The weir counts and studies salmon as they swim back from the ocean - it's like a fish census! In spring, they count young salmon leaving Bear Lake, and in fall, they count adults returning. This information helps protect the salmon and ensure there are enough for everyone, including the bears and eagles.Over the years, they've added some cool technology. Now they use video cameras and electronic counters to keep track of the fish. This helps them make decisions about commercial fishing, sport fishing limits, and hatchery operations.In the fall, they collect coho salmon eggs here. These eggs are sent to a hatchery in Anchorage where they raise them until they are big enough to be released back into Bear Lake in the spring.Managing our salmon population is a big deal in Alaska. With challenges like overfishing and climate change, places like the Bear Creek Weir are super important. They help us make sure we'll have salmon for years to come.
Exit Glacier Turn Off
Coming up is the turn off to Exit Glacier, located 8.4 miles down Exit Glacier road is one of the most visited natural wonders in Seward, Alaska. This stunning glacier, a part of the Kenai Fjords National Park, is one of the most accessible glaciers in Alaska. Visitors can witness the awe-inspiring sight of a powerful river of ice extending from the Harding Icefield towards the Resurrection River. The glacier derives its name from the exit of the first recorded crossing of the Harding Icefield in 1968. The retreat of Exit Glacier is well-documented with signs that show the glacier's previous edges, giving visitors a clear picture of climate change in action. If you choose to explore Exit Glacier know that their are a variety of hikes for all levels. The popular Glacier View loop is a 2-mile round trip, and takes roughly 45 minutes to walk. The Glacier View Loop adds a quarter-mile, following the outwash river. Both trails start in a lush green cottonwood forest. For the best views consider the steep and strenous 8.2 mile Harding Ice Field trail.
Entering Seward
Seward, located on Resurrection Bay and approximately 127 miles (204 km) south of Anchorage, is known as the "Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park". Established in 1903 as the southern terminus of the Alaska Railroad, Seward is one of only two deep-water ports south of Anchorage, serving as the port for Royal Caribbean and Celebrity cruise ships. The bustling harbor and historic downtown district are filled with quaint shops and art galleries.During the summer, visitors flock to Seward for trophy sport fishing, glacier and wildlife cruises, sailing, hiking, kayaking, flightseeing, and summer dog sled rides. In winter, the city transforms into a winter wonderland, offering cross-country skiing and snowmachining adventures.The city is named in honor of William Henry Seward, the United States Secretary of State under Presidents Abraham Lincoln and Andrew Johnson. Seward negotiated the United States' purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867, a treaty signed on March 30 and celebrated annually as Seward's Day.Resurrection Bay was named by Russian fur trader and explorer Alexander Baranof in 1791. After finding shelter in the bay during a storm on the Russian holiday of the Resurrection, Baranof named the bay accordingly. Resurrection Bay remains ice-free throughout the winter.
Minnesota South
Turn right to head south on Minnesota Drive. We will follow this road to the Seward Highway.One interesting feature along this road is the special fencing that runs 4.5 miles along both sides of Minnesota Drive. It’s a moose fence! This area once had the highest number of moose and car collisions in the city. The federally funded fence helps guide moose away from the highway, making it safer for everyoneYou will notice an occasional moose gate. These are for moose that stubbornly access the road from outside of the fenced area. These gates funnel the moose to the curled pickets that go in only open on one direction… off of the road. The fencing is not an enclosure, so they don’t get trapped. That said, this is an excellent place to see a moose in town.This road is also known as Walter J. Hickel Parkway honoring a significant figure in Alaska's history. Hickel came to Anchorage as a prize fighter in the 1930’s. He became a successful land developer, eventually building the iconic Hotel Captain Cook, which is still run by his family today. He served as Alaska's governor twice and was also the U.S. Secretary of the Interior under Nixon. Hickel was a key player in Alaska's growth. He was instrumental in pushing for Statehood, the Alaska Pipeline, and the Native Claims Settlement Act.When he passed away in 2010, this old prize fighter was buried feet first, per his request, because, he said, “When I get to Heaven, I want to come out fighting for Alaska.”This road will curve and become O’Malley Road. You will cross over the Old Seward highway before coming to the entrance to the New Seward Highway.
Turn onto Seward Highway
Canyon Creek Stop Info
I’m glad that you are taking a moment to stop here! At the north end of the parking lot, you'll find a lookout area with interpretive signs and an impressive view of the river valley below where Canyon Creek and Six-mile Creek converge.Whitewater rafters often start from Lower Summit Lake and navigate 6.5 miles of the river system to Canyon Creek. These are Class IV rapids, so having a knowledgeable guide is crucial for safety. The raft pullout is located near here, so you may see rafters on the water.Interpretive signs are posted telling the tale of the gold rush here. In 1895, gold was discovered beneath this bridge. The mountainous terrain made it difficult to reach this area, but the promise of gold kept drawing people in.
