Portage Turn to Whittier Tunnel
Turn Off To Whittier and Portage Lake
Turn Off!
Portage Lake Cruise
Old Portage, Train Station and Wildlife Conservation Center
This area used to be the town of Portage. The 1964 earthquake and tsunami laid the town to ruins. Sometimes you can see remnants of buildings among the bushes on the right. On your left, you'll see the old Portage Train Station. This station was once a critical stop for anyone venturing to Whittier, Alaska.Ahead on the right is Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. This place has amazing photo opportunities of our local wildlife. The center takes in injured and orphaned animals year-round, providing them with a safe haven and quality care. If you have time to stop, Plan to spend at least an hour here – it's worth every minute! There is an entrance fee, of course.
begich boggs visitor ctr
Trailhead for Byron Glacier hike
Portage Lake Cruise
Bear Valley
That short tunnel, just 450 feet long - has brought us to Bear Valley. Look to your right for a great photo opportunity! You'll see Portage Lake with Burns Glacier on the left and Byron Glacier on the right. Portage Glacier itself used to be visible here 100 years ago, but it has retreated behind that point ahead of us, leaving this beautiful lake behind.Up ahead about half a mile is the toll booth. After you pay, follow the toll attendant's directions to line up in lane 1, 2, or 3. Need a restroom break? There's one in the building on your right just past the toll booth. You can stop there before lining up for the tunnel.
salmon viewing platform
Coming up on your right, you'll find one of Alaska's best salmon viewing spots at Williwaw Creek. Pull into the paved parking lot when you see the "Salmon Viewing" sign. From mid-August through early fall, you can watch coho, sockeye, and chum salmon swimming upstream to spawn from a wheelchair-accessible viewing platform. The platform overlooks several deep pools where you can see the salmon's beautiful colors - green heads and bright red bodies - as they make their final journey. Just remember to keep an eye out for black bears who also enjoy fishing in this area!
Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
Old Portage and the Train Station
This area used to be the town of Portage. A huge earthquake and tsunami in 1964 laid the town to ruins. Sometimes you can see remnants of buildings among the bushes on the right. On your left, you'll see the old Portage Train Station. This station was once a critical stop for anyone venturing to Whittier, Alaska. Built during World War II as a covert army base, Whittier boasted an ice-free port that was accessible throughout the year. Between 1941 and 1943, the Army Corps of Engineers constructed a 2.5-mile train tunnel to reach this secret base. Until the year 2000, anyone - or anything - heading to the quaint seaside town of Whittier had to board a train. Look closely, and you'll see a gravel ramp next to the tracks. This is where vehicles would ascend to the flat bed train cars, ready for the journey. There was also a train car designated for passengers only.In an ambitious undertaking, the state transformed the tunnel to accommodate vehicles as well as trains. The result? A shared one-lane tunnel. To ensure smooth traffic flow, a strict schedule allows vehicles to take turns using the tunnel, alternating with the trains. It's a fascinating piece of Alaskan history and a testament to innovative engineering.
20-Mile River
The 20-Mile River, fed by glaciers, flows under the bridge up ahead and into the Turnagain Arm. This area is a hub for springtime fishermen, eager to dip their nets for hooligan, a smelt species. Hooligan are also known by Alaska Native people as "candle fish," because if you dry them and insert a wick, they will burn like candles. The fish are quite oily, in fact 15% of their body weight is fat. Their timely arrival in early spring, provided a vital calorie boost after a harsh winter, earning them another nickname, "Salvation Fish." This spot is a bustling area, serving as both a launch point for boats and a landing point for rafts.
Chugach State Park - NB
We are about to leave Chugach National Forest and enter Chugach State Park. The Chugach State Park covers 495,000 acres. it is the fourth largest state park in the United States
Glacier's and Glacier Valley's
I hope that you are enjoying the scenery of all of mountains and valleys that surround us! These giant U-shaped valleys tell the story of past glaciation.Glaciers form when snow accumulates and compresses into dense ice, slowly flowing downhill like a slow-moving river. This grinding and shaping process creates U-shaped valleys with steep walls and flat bottoms, a clear sign of glacial activity.In contrast, river valleys, carved over thousands or millions of years by flowing water, typically have a V-shape with gently sloping sides and a narrow bottom. You may see both types of valleys across the water.Alaska boasts about 34,000 square miles of glaciers, roughly the size of Maine. Out of an estimated 100,000 glaciers, only 600 have names. Today, you might see hanging glaciers in the mountains or tidewater glaciers if you're cruising out of Seward or Whittier. Hanging glaciers cling to mountainsides, while tidewater glaciers end in a body of saltwater.Glaciers are either advancing or retreating. An advancing glacier is, as the name implies, moving forward. A retreating glacier is not moving backward, but instead is breaking or calving off of the front of the glacier faster than it is moving forward. Most of Alaska’s glaciers are retreating at this time.
Girdwood Alaska
Welcome to Girdwood! The gas station up ahead has fuel, snacks and a flushing toilet. If you have time, Girdwood is well-worth a stop. Turn right onto Alyeska Highway just past the gas station to explore it.Girdwood began as a gold mining town. It was originally called Glacier City. It was renamed after Colonel James Girdwood, an Irish immigrant who made his fortune in New York before moving to Alaska to chase gold. He staked claims on Crow Creek in 1896 and hired workers who admired him so much that they eventually renamed the town after him.The town used to be along the Turnagain Arm but was relocated 2.5 miles up Alyeska Highway after sinking during the earthquake. Today, some homes have been rebuilt by the water, but they can't be insured or bought with loans, so they sell for cash only.Alyeska Resort, about 4 miles from the highway, is Alaska’s premier ski destination. The base elevation is 250 feet above sea level, and Mount Alyeska rises to 3,939 feet with an aerial tramway running almost year-round to the 2,500-foot level. The town sits in a glacier-carved valley surrounded by the Chugach State Park mountains. Known for heavy snowfall, the mountain averages 669 inches of snow annually.
Ghost Forest
Just ahead on your right is the Ghost Forest of Girdwood, rumored home of the elusive sasquatch. These standing dead trees are a haunting reminder of the devastating 1964, 9.2 earthquake. The quake, which lasted for almost 5 minutes, caused the silt in this area to settle, sinking 6 to 8 feet. The tsunami that followed, soaked the roots of these trees with saltwater, killing them instantly. About 7-feet of sediments have been deposited here since the earthquake, so what you are seeing is actually the middle part of these trees. Some people called them the silent dogwoods… because they have no bark!
Bird Point, Rest Stop, Bore Tide
Ahead on your left is another great optional photo stop with rustic public restrooms! The Bird Point Scenic Overlook features striking a Beluga whale pod sculpture rising from the concrete path. A trail leads you to an overlook of the Turnagain Arm, with interpretive signs along the way. If the tide is high and fish are running, you might even spot some Beluga whales. The parking area offers an easy access point for a bike trail that stretches from Girdwood to Indian. There is a $5 parking fee.Bird Point is also a fantastic spot to view our famous Bore Tide. This natural phenomenon occurs a few days each month when we have extreme minus tides. Then the fast flowing outgoing tide meets the rushing incoming tide, creating a wave that can reach 6-10 feet high and travel at 15 miles per hour along the 47-mile arm. The largest Bore Tides happen during a full or new moon. The bore tide is a predictable event with accurate times and dates available on-line to those interested in seeing it or even riding it. Spectators delight in the sight of local surfers lined up to ride the wave that spans the width of the arm. The Turnagain Arm is one of only 60 places in the world where you can witness a tidal bore. The area has also being considered for tidal power generation due to its unique tidal activity.
Avalanche Alley
You're now entering Avalanche Alley, a long, straight section of road with steep slopes and heavy snowfall, making it highly prone to avalanches. When snow depth becomes a concern, the Alaska Railroad uses a 105 mm howitzer to trigger controlled avalanches. This method aims to keep tracks and road clear by causing small, manageable avalanches rather than risking a large, natural one.There are two main types of avalanches: loose snow avalanches and slab avalanches. Loose snow avalanches start at a single point with a small amount of snow, which gains momentum and brings down more and more material as it grows, while slab avalanches occur when a large, cohesive slab of snow breaks away. Both can be dangerous. We typically see the loose snow variety here.The bike path that we mentioned earlier is on your right. You'll notice that it is raised above road level in this area. Initially, the path was level with the road. It was eventually elevated to help contain the avalanches on that side of the road. This has been largely successful in keeping the road and tracks clear, but avalanches can still occasionally block traffic for a few hours or, in rare cases like in 2000, a few days. You can often see evidence of avalanches at the bottom of the slope, even in summer.
Bird Creek
We are approaching Bird Creek, another local fishing spot. We see salmon here starting in late July. This area is so popular that the state had to expand the parking area to handle the crowd. During peak fishing times, fishermen will line the silty banks shoulder to shoulder, a phenomenon known as "combat fishing." In addition to the dangers of fishing hooks flying all around, anglers need the be bear-aware as they also like to fish here. Occasionally, we’ll see pictures in the paper of bears mingling with the fishermen, prompting the Department of Fish and Game to intervene.There is a bike trail along this road that starts in Indian and continues all the way to Girdwood, about 12 miles each-way. Bird Creek is also a great place to go camping, and even has two forest service cabins, if you prefer "glamping," which is short for “glamourous camping.” Of course, the term glamourous is subjective. These cabins cost $100 a night and come complete with a propane heater, though you do need to bring your own propane. The beds are wooden platforms, so you'll need sleeping pads and bags for comfort. There is a wooden table and bench for your meals and a fire ring outside for your evening gathering. There is no running water or electricity. The public privy is a short walk away. Alaska has about 200 public service cabins, many of them require that you hike, bike, ski, or hire a water taxi to access them. The cabins at Bird Creek are some of the easiest to reach. But, regardless of how far the trek is to reach a cabin, they are extremely popular, year-round, often booked up months in advance.
Indian Alaska
The community of Indian began as a gold mining claim when prospector Peter Strong discovered a quartz vein here in the early 1900s. This historic cabin is one of the oldest structures in the area. For a fee, you pan for gold here or visit their mini museum. Peter Strong arrived in the North in 1898 for the Klondike Gold Rush. He dug at least three mine shafts here, finding both tungsten and gold. He also found placer gold in the creek, that is the kind of gold that you find with a gold pan. The creek is now a popular fishing spot as well. by 1909, there was a roadhouse here serving prospectors and postal workers traveling on foot, by horseback, or by dogsled along the original Iditarod trail from Seward all the way to Nome. In 1964, after the earthquake swamped the town of Portage, the state gave up some Chugach State Park land here to the displaced residents.
Glacial Silt
As we mentioned earlier, low tide exposes vast expanses of beach. Unlike a typical sand beach, however, these are treacherous glacial silt flats. The terrain is made up of glacier silt or glacial flour and is unstable and unpredictable.The silt is produced by slow-moving glaciers that grind rocks into a powder, finer than flour, as they travel down mountains. This silt can float in freshwater, turning glacially-fed rivers cloudy and making still water lakes reflect jewel-like colors. However, once the silt reaches salt water, it sinks to the ocean floor.Walking on these silt flats can cause a phenomenon called liquefaction, where the ground's consistency changes to something like quicksand. The danger isn't sinking and disappearing, but rather sinking enough to get stuck. The silt can harden like cement, and it requires special equipment to free you.This would be less concerning if not for the area's dramatic tides - we have the second-highest tide differential in North America, with about 30-fee between low tide and high tide. Once stuck, people have tragically lost their lives on these mud flats due to the swiftly incoming tide and icy waters. So, despite the beauty of the beach, it's important to stay off the mud flats for your own safety.
Windy Corner and Dall Sheep
Here's another heads-up! The pullout that is coming up on your right is a fantastic spot to watch for Dall Sheep. If you notice a crowd gazing and pointing at the hills, that’s a good sign that the sheep are in view! They favor this area given the food availability and safety offered by the steep cliffs. Female sheep, or ewes, have their lambs near these cliffs, and the little ones can navigate the steep slopes within hours of birth. These sheep belong to a large herd that resides in Chugach State Park.Dall Sheep have horns, not antlers like moose or caribou. Their horns, made of keratin (the same stuff as your fingernails), are permanent and grow throughout their lives. You can even tell a sheep's age by counting the rings on its horns, which form as growth slows in winter and speeds up in warmer months. Ewes have short, spiky horns that can sometimes lead to them being mistaken for mountain goats. However, the males, or rams, develop their distinctive full curl after about 8 years.During the mating season, rams occasionally lock horns over the ewes, or they might just size each other up. If one ram's horns clearly outsize the other's, the smaller-horned ram usually retreats without a fight.Rams typically weigh around 180 pounds, and ewes about 110 pounds. If you decide to stop for photos, remember, they might look peaceful, but they're wild animals. You wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of those horns!
Rainbow & Hope Northbound
This area is called Rainbow Valley, named for the rainbows often seen in the waterfall mist here. Back in 1898, it was local miners who gave it this delightful name.During the railroad construction, this was a bustling hub. There was a section house here and it served as a whistle stop on the rail for early homesteaders. Around 30 homes still dot the area today, offering a semi-secluded lifestyle just a short commute from Anchorage.Across the water, nestled in the wide U-shaped valley, you can spot a few buildings. That's the historic town of Hope, Alaska. Today, it's home to 193 people, but a century ago, over 3000 gold prospectors lived there. Gold was discovered as early as 1888, sparking a gold rush to this region.When it came to naming the settlement, the miners decided to name it after the next person to step off the boat. That turned out to be a 19-year-old named Percy Hope. And just like that, the town had its name. Percy Hope didn't stick around for long, but the name "Hope" seems fitting for a place where so many people came seeking their fortune.The gold rush glory days of Hope ended when news of the Klondike gold rush arrived. But a handful of miners stayed on, working their claims and maintaining the town. During the 9.2 earthquake in 1964, part the town sank 8 feet and was swamped by the resulting tsunami, resulting in the loss of some original buildings. However, many were saved and relocated further from the water.Today, Hope retains much of its gold rush charm. It's a popular spot for salmon fishing, biking, and hiking. There are still private gold claims, and if you're feeling lucky, bring a pan and a shovel and you can try your hand at gold panning in Resurrection Creek, a public gold panning area.
Beluga Point
Up ahead, there is a rocky outcrop on the left with a spacious pull-out area and parking. This is Beluga Point, one of our favorite spots for taking photos on the journey to Seward.Beluga Point has an intriguing history. It was once a hunting ground for Alaska's Indigenous people, who hunted Beluga whales and caribou here. Archaeologists have discovered artifacts from multiple Indigenous groups, indicating that this area was used for hunting from as far back as 10,000 years ago until about 1,000 years ago. If you decide to explore, be careful on the uneven paths.From mid-July to early September, we often spot Beluga whales in the Turnagain Arm. They follow the salmon runs up to our local creeks during high tide. Occasionally, you might even see an Orca whale in pursuit of the Belugas! Adult Beluga whales are pearly white, while their young are gray. They look like giant marshmallows popping up out of the water. These toothed whales are most closely related to the Narwhal, also known as the unicorn of the sea. These Belugas are part of the Cook Inlet population. They are smaller and genetically distinct from other pods globally. There are just over 300 of these unique Cook Inlet Belugas, and they're considered endangered.And just a quick sidenote: Beluga Caviar does not come from Beluga whales. It comes from the Beluga Sturgeon fish, which has a white belly. In Russian, 'Beluga' means white.
McHugh Creek Northbound
Coming up on your right is the McHugh Creek Recreation Area featuring a 20-foot waterfall and numerous hiking trails. This was a railroad construction camp until 1917. If you look high up on the slope, you’ll see evidence of the 2016 McHugh Fire. This fire played out like an action movie. 778 acres burned before firefighters were able to contain it. The communities of Rainbow and the Potter were in peril. The 45-degree slope and dry conditions presented a huge obstacle in containing it. In addition to hundreds of firefighters, they used airplanes to spread fire retardants and helicopters to scoop up water in giant buckets the Turnagain Arm to drop on the steep sections. The drama included burning trees rolling down the cliffs and falling onto the road and railroad tracks. We were lucky that it was contained before reaching the nearby neighborhoods. If you go for a hike here, please be bear aware. This is State Park Land, so there is a $5 fee for parking.
Mt. Spurr, Alaska Range, The Sleeping Lady
If it is a clear day, look over the water to see the mountains on the horizon. The single, triangle-shaped mountain in the center of the open water is Mount Spurr, an active Volcano. Mount Spurr last erupted in 1992, dusting Anchorage with volcanic ash. It is considered to be the farthest North Mountain in the Aleutian Range, and is part of the ring of fire. To the right of Mount Spurr is the beginning of the Alaska Range. The Alaska Range is not volcanic, but instead has been formed by colliding tectonic plates. Denali, North America’s tallest mountain is not visible from here, but it is also a part of the Alaska Range
Potter Section House (NB)
We will shortly be coming up to the Potter Creek Section House on your Left. If you are a train buff, you may want to take a quick stop here and check out the Alaska Railroad Rotary Snowplow #4 as well as the restored historic home and outbuildings. In 1919, this area was a buzzing construction camp for the Alaska Railroad. The crew had to cut their way through 4 million cubic yards of rocky cliffs south of here to make way for the rails. Once the Railroad was completed, most of the camp was dismantled. This section house was built in 1929. The first foreman, William Potter, and his family lived here. William was responsible for 10 miles of track, making repairs when the track was blocked or damaged by avalanches and rock slides. The house also served as a whistle stop for locals before the road was put in. This is the only section house along the Alaska railroad that is still standing. The Marsh, the house and the creek are all named after William Potter.Most of the section houses became obsolete once the Seward Highway was completed in 1951. However, this house was still in use until 1978. It became a recognized historic site in 1985 and was the Headquarters for the Chugach State Park up until the pandemic.By the way, you have just entered the Chugach State Park. Covering 495,000 acres, this is the fourth largest state park in the United States.
Potter Marsh
On your right is Potter Marsh. Interestingly, the Marsh isn’t a natural feature, nor was it planned. It was inadvertently created back in 1916 when the construc tion of the railroad caused a backup of Potter Creek. Today, it's a protected wetland and home to an astonishing variety of birds. The Alaska Audubon Society has identified more than 460 naturally occurring bird species in Alaska, 130 of these species have been identified right here at Potter Marsh, mostly during the summer months.My favorite birds to watch for are the Arctic Terns and Trumpeter Swans. Arctic Terns have a gull-like white body, slim wings and a black cap. They have the longest migration of any bird, traveling from Antarctica to the Arctic each year in search of an endless summer. The graceful Trumpeter Swans are easy to spot with their bright white plumage, large size, and tendency to pair up. They are among the world's heaviest flying birds and typically mate for life. These swans were once hunted to near extinction, with less than 70 left in the wild by 1935. Today, thanks to protective measures, their population has rebounded to approximately 35,000.
Potter Marsh Pulloff
Ahead on our right is the entrance to the Potter Marsh Watershed Park. If you're a bird-watcher or a photographer, this place is a real treat! Once there, you'll have access to1,550 feet of boardwalk through the vibrant marsh and sedges that are just humming with life. In the fall, there is a salmon run that follows a creek right under the walkway.
