Departing Anchorage to Whittier SB
Hello and welcome! I'm excited to be your guide today as we journey from Anchorage to Whittier on one of America's most spectacular roads - the Seward Highway. This remarkable route earned its place among just 31 "All-American Roads" in the U.S., and once you see the views ahead, you'll understand why. Get ready for a front-row seat to Alaska's natural wonders, from dramatic tidewater to soaring mountains, and keep your eyes peeled for wildlife along the way!You're starting your journey in Anchorage, which has a fascinating story. Before 1915, this land was home to three Indigenous groups who would set up summer fish camps here, along with just four western homesteaders. Everything changed when the federal government chose this spot as the headquarters for America's second federally funded railroad - the first being along the Panama Canal! The initial plans included extending the rail line to what we now call Whittier, known back then as "Portage Bay." But that plan was abandoned when the government decided to buy existing rail from a defunct railroad that stretched from the deepwater port of Seward to the head of the Kenai Peninsula.As we head south toward Whittier, you'll have the magnificent Chugach Mountains on your left - they're your compass point for the journey.The city of Anchorage sits in what we call "the bowl," surrounded by water on three sides and those impressive mountains to the east. While we'll point out interesting spots along the way, we'll save the detailed history of Anchorage for another tour - you can discover that on our Anchorage Walking Tour. For now, just relax and enjoy the ride. I'll chime in automatically whenever we reach something worth noting.
36th to Tudor Road
You just crossed 36th Avenue marking the last stop light that you will see until you get to the Whittier Tunnel. The Municipality of Anchorage spans over 2000 square miles! To put that into perspective, it's larger than the state of Delaware. The Municipality extends 29 miles north of here to the indigenous community of Eklutna, and as far south as Portage. We will be driving past the southern edge of the municipality on our trip today. Most of the 289000 people who live here, live in the more Urban area known as the Anchorage bowl. The municipality includes most of the Chugach State Park and the Chugach Mountain Range, 7 miles to the East of us, on your left. Here's a fun fact for you - even after leaving this urban area, you'll still officially be in Anchorage for over 50 miles, until you go through the tunnel to Whittier!
Campbell Creek Greenbelt
The bridge up ahead will take you over Campbell Creek. This is one of two green belts that run the length of the city running from the mountains to the ocean. This serves as a path for all the animals that live here in the city. Anchorage is home to 52 mammal species, including black and brown bears, moose, lynx, porcupines, and more. We have anywhere from 300 to 1000 moose in the city depending on the time of year. In the summer, our furry neighbors include over 250 black bears and up to 60 brown bears. We also live side-by-side with lynx, porcupine, wolverines, beavers, eagles, and more! Our motto here is Big. Wild. Life! And we live it!To your left are the Chugach Mountains, with visible peaks ranging from 3,000 to 7,000 feet. Some are easily identifiable, such as the one that has a flat mesa-like top. Aptly named, Flattop Mountain, stands at 3,510 feet. It is the most climbed mountain in Alaska and very popular among locals and visitors. The tallest mountain in the Chugach Range, Mount Markus Baker, stands at 13,094 feet - almost twice as high as the tallest mountains visible from here.
Fox Hollow Sports Dome
The Dome coming up on your left is part of the Fox Hollow Golf Course. When the dome was first put in, locals complained about it being an eyesore and especially how it blocked the view of the mountains. To address this, the owners painted a mountain-scape on its side, helping it blend with the landscape. The outdoor course has 9-holes and is the smallest of the three golf courses in Anchorage. The Sports Dome offers a little something extra for golfers in the cold, white winter months. It has a large indoor driving range as well as a handful of golf simulators.
Rules of the Road
Before leaving the Anchorage Bowl, let’s go over some important "rules of the road." This highway has one lane going in each direction for most of the journey, with passing lanes added over time to keep traffic flowing smoothly. Take your time and drive with care.You may not know this, but we only have 2 seasons in Alaska. Winter… and construction! Be prepared for construction and possible pilot car waits. These wait times can be up to 20 plus minutes.To get to Whittier, you will need to “catch the tunnel.” It will open for a short window of time once an hour. Going to Whittier, the times are on the half hour: 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, and so on. It will take you between an hour and 15 minute and an hour and a half to get to the tunnels toll area from here. Keep track of your time when deciding to make photo stops and leave a little wiggle room for unexpected construction stops. We'll let you know as you're approaching a great photo stop so that you can pull over safely if you have time. Remember, if you miss the tunnel, you will have to wait an hour for your next opportunity to get to Whittier. FYI, There is a restroom just past the toll area before you go into the tunnel, so don’t stop for a restroom break before getting there if you are worried about time.On the Seward Highway, please remember to keep your headlights on at all times and if more than 5 vehicles are following you, use a slow vehicle turnout to let them pass. We urge you to wait for a passing lane before overtaking another vehicle. This road has a bad reputation for impatient drivers. Also, please note that our tour is timed to work best with the speed limit, so going faster may cause some narration to overlap.If you have not already done so, You may want to plug your phone into the car to take advantage of the car speakers and to keep your phone fully charged along the tour route.
Potter Marsh Pulloff
You are approaching the stunning Potter Marsh. If you're a bird-watcher or a photographer, this place is a real treat! As we round the bend, you'll see the entrance on your left. Look out for a brown road sign and a special left-turn lane to ensure smooth traffic flow. Once there, you'll discover a boardwalk stretching 1,550 feet through the vibrant marsh and sedges. Just a heads up, you might hear gunfire - there's a shooting range nearby. We'll share more about Potter Marsh shortly.
Potter Marsh
On your right is the Cook Inlet where it opens up to the entrance to the Turnagain Arm. We will be traveling along the Turnagain arm for the next 40 miles. On your left is, of course, Potter Marsh. Interestingly, the Marsh isn’t a natural feature, nor was it planned. It was inadvertently created back in 1916 when the construction of the railroad caused a backup of Potter Creek. Today, it's a protected wetland and home to an astonishing variety of birds. The Alaska Audubon Society has identified more than 460 naturally occurring bird species in Alaska, 130 of these species have been identified right here at Potter Marsh, mostly during the summer months.My favorite birds to watch for are the Arctic Terns and Trumpeter Swans. Arctic Terns have a gull-like white body, slim wings and a black cap. They have the longest migration of any bird, traveling from Antarctica to the Arctic each year in search of an endless summer. The graceful Trumpeter Swans are easy to spot with their bright white plumage, large size, and tendency to pair up. They are among the world's heaviest flying birds and typically mate for life. These swans were once hunted to near extinction, with less than 70 left in the wild by 1935. Today, thanks to protective measures, their population has rebounded to approximately 35,000.
Potter Section House (SB)
Coming up on your right is the Potter Creek Section House. If you are a train buff, you may want to take a quick stop here and check out the Alaska Railroad Rotary Snowplow #4 as well as the restored historic home and outbuildings.In 1919, this area was a buzzing construction camp for the Alaska Railroad. The crew had to cut their way through 4 million cubic yards of rocky cliffs south of here to make way for the rails. Once the Railroad was completed, most of the camp was dismantled. This section house was built in 1929. The first foreman, William Potter, and his family lived here. William was responsible for 10 miles of track, making repairs when the track was blocked or damaged by avalanches and rock slides. The house also served as a whistle stop for locals before the road was put in. This is the only section house along the Alaska railroad that is still standing. The Marsh, the house and the creek are all named after William Potter.Most of the section houses became obsolete once the Seward Highway was completed in 1951. However, this house was still in use until 1978. It became a recognized historic site in 1985 and was the Headquarters for the Chugach State Park up until the pandemic.By the way, you have just entered the Chugach State Park. Covering 495,000 acres, this is the fourth largest state park in the United States.
Turnagain Arm
If it is a clear day, look over the water to see the mountains on the horizon. The single, triangle-shaped mountain in the center of the open water is Mount Spurr, an active Volcano. Mount Spurr last erupted in 1992, dusting Anchorage with volcanic ash. It is considered to be the farthest North Mountain in the Aleutian Range, and is part of the ring of fire. To the right of Mount Spurr is the beginning of the Alaska Range. The Alaska Range is not volcanic, but instead has been formed by colliding tectonic plates. Denali, North America’s tallest mountain is not visible from here, but it is also a part of the Alaska RangeThe Turnagain Arm is saltwater. At low tide, you will see what looks like a wide sandy beach and at high tide the arm is filled with water. There should be no people the beach, also known as the mud flats, because it is quite dangerous to walk out there... please don't be tempted!The local Denin’a people called the waterway Tutl-uh (TUT-slow), meaning "backwater." The quirky name of Turnagain Arm was coined by the crew of Captain James Cook, who explored this area in 1778 in search of the legendary Northwest Passage. Cook sent his sailing master, William Bligh, to investigate both the Knik and Turnagain Arms. After finding a river at the end of the Knik Arm, Bligh mistakenly thought the whole thing was a river. He then explored this area, only to find what he thought was another river. Disappointed that they had failed to find the Northwest Passage, and had to turn around, once again, he named this the River Turnagain. It was later renamed the Turnagain Arm as it is certainly not a river. It is, in fact, a fjord. Glaciers from the surrounding mountains once converged into one massive force, carving out a deep fjord here. Over time, glacial silt has filled it in - we'll discuss that further down the road. And if the name William Bligh rings a bell, it's because he later gained notoriety as the captain ousted during the Mutiny on the Bounty.
McHugh Creek
Coming up on your left is the McHugh Creek Recreation Area featuring a 20-foot waterfall and numerous hiking trails. This was a railroad construction camp until 1917. If you look high up on the slope, you’ll see evidence of the 2016 McHugh Fire. This fire played out like an action movie. 778 acres burned before firefighters were able to contain it. The communities of Rainbow and the Potter were in peril. The 45-degree slope and dry conditions presented a huge obstacle in containing it. In addition to hundreds of firefighters, they used airplanes to spread fire retardants and helicopters to scoop up water in giant buckets the Turnagain Arm to drop on the steep sections. The drama included burning trees rolling down the cliffs and falling onto the road and railroad tracks. We were lucky that it was contained before reaching the nearby neighborhoods. If you go for a hike here, please be bear aware. This is a State Park, so there is a $5 fee for parking.
Beluga Point Southbound
Up ahead, there is a rocky outcrop on the right with a spacious pull-out area and parking. This is Beluga Point, one of our favorite spots for taking photos on the journey to Seward.Beluga Point has an intriguing history. It was once a hunting ground for Alaska's Indigenous people, who hunted Beluga whales and caribou here. Archaeologists have discovered artifacts from multiple Indigenous groups, indicating that this area was used for hunting from as far back as 10,000 years ago until about 1,000 years ago. If you decide to explore, be careful on the uneven paths.From mid-July to early September, we often spot Beluga whales in the Turnagain Arm. They follow the salmon runs up to our local creeks during high tide. Occasionally, you might even see an Orca whale in pursuit of the Belugas! Adult Beluga whales are pearly white, while their young are gray. They look like giant marshmallows popping up out of the water. These toothed whales are most closely related to the Narwhal, also known as the unicorn of the sea. These Belugas are part of the Cook Inlet population. They are smaller and genetically distinct from other pods globally. There are just over 300 of these unique Cook Inlet Belugas, and they're considered endangered.And just a quick sidenote: Beluga Caviar does not come from Beluga whales. It comes from the Beluga Sturgeon fish, which has a white belly. In Russian, 'Beluga' means white.
Rainbow Valley and Hope Southbound
This area is called Rainbow Valley, named for the rainbows often seen in the waterfall mist here. Back in 1898, it was local miners who gave it this delightful name.During the railroad construction, this was a bustling hub. There was a section house here and it served as a whistle stop on the rail for early homesteaders. Around 30 homes still dot the area today, offering a semi-secluded lifestyle just a short commute from Anchorage.Across the water, nestled in the wide U-shaped valley, you can spot a few buildings. That's the historic town of Hope, Alaska. Today, it's home to 193 people, but a century ago, over 3000 gold prospectors lived there. Gold was discovered as early as 1888, sparking a gold rush to this region.When it came to naming the settlement, the miners decided to name it after the next person to step off the boat. That turned out to be a 19-year-old named Percy Hope. And just like that, the town had its name. Percy Hope didn't stick around for long, but the name "Hope" seems fitting for a place where so many people came seeking their fortune.The gold rush glory days of Hope ended when news of the Klondike gold rush arrived. But a handful of miners stayed on, working their claims and maintaining the town. During the 9.2 earthquake in 1964, part the town sank 8 feet and was swamped by the resulting tsunami, resulting in the loss of some original buildings. However, many were saved and relocated further from the water.Today, Hope retains much of its gold rush charm. It's a popular spot for salmon fishing, biking, and hiking. There are still private gold claims, and if you're feeling lucky, bring a pan and a shovel and you can try your hand at gold panning in Resurrection Creek, a public gold panning area.
Windy Corner and Dall Sheep
Here's another heads-up! The Windy Corner pullout is coming up on your right. This is a fantastic spot to watch for Dall Sheep. If you notice a crowd gazing and pointing at the hills, that’s a good sign that the sheep are in view! They favor this area given the food availability and safety offered by the steep cliffs. Female sheep, or ewes, have their lambs near these cliffs, and the little ones can navigate the steep slopes within hours of birth. These sheep belong to a large herd that resides in Chugach State Park.Dall Sheep have horns, not antlers like moose or caribou. Their horns, made of keratin (the same stuff as your fingernails), are permanent and grow throughout their lives. You can even tell a sheep's age by counting the rings on its horns, which form as growth slows in winter and speeds up in warmer months. Ewes have short, spiky horns that can sometimes lead to them being mistaken for mountain goats. However, the males, or rams, develop their distinctive full curl after about 8 years.During the mating season, rams occasionally lock horns over the ewes, or they might just size each other up. If one ram's horns clearly outsize the other's, the smaller-horned ram usually retreats without a fight.Rams typically weigh around 180 pounds, and ewes about 110 pounds. If you decide to stop for photos, remember, they might look peaceful, but they're wild animals. You wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of those horns!
Glacial Silt
As we mentioned earlier, low tide exposes vast expanses of beach. Unlike a typical sand beach, however, these are treacherous glacial silt flats. The terrain is made up of glacier silt or glacial flour and is unstable and unpredictable.The silt is produced by slow-moving glaciers that grind rocks into a powder, finer than flour, as they travel down mountains. This silt can float in freshwater, turning glacially-fed rivers cloudy and making still water lakes reflect jewel-like colors. However, once the silt reaches salt water, it sinks to the ocean floor.Walking on these silt flats can cause a phenomenon called liquefaction, where the ground's consistency changes to something like quicksand. The danger isn't sinking and disappearing, but rather sinking enough to get stuck. The silt can harden like cement, and it requires special equipment to free you.This would be less concerning if not for the area's dramatic tides - we have the second-highest tide differential in North America, with about 30-fee between low tide and high tide. Once stuck, people have tragically lost their lives on these mud flats due to the swiftly incoming tide and icy waters. So, despite the beauty of the beach, it's important to stay off the mud flats for your own safety.
Indian Alaska
The community of Indian began as a gold mining claim when prospector Peter Strong discovered a quartz vein here in the early 1900s. This historic cabin is one of the oldest structures in the area. For a fee, you pan for gold here or visit their mini museum. Peter Strong arrived in the North in 1898 for the Klondike Gold Rush. He dug at least three mine shafts here, finding both tungsten and gold. He also found placer gold in the creek, that is the kind of gold that you find with a gold pan. The creek is now a popular fishing spot as well. by 1909, there was a roadhouse here serving prospectors and postal workers traveling on foot, by horseback, or by dogsled along the original Iditarod trail from Seward all the way to Nome. In 1964, after the earthquake swamped the town of Portage, the state gave up some Chugach State Park land here to the displaced residents.
Bird Creek
We are approaching Bird Creek, another local fishing spot. We see salmon here starting in late July. This area is so popular that the state had to expand the parking area to handle the crowd. During peak fishing times, fishermen will line the silty banks shoulder to shoulder, a phenomenon known as "combat fishing." In addition to the dangers of fishing hooks flying all around, anglers need the be bear-aware as they also like to fish here. Occasionally, we’ll see pictures in the paper of bears mingling with the fishermen, prompting the Department of Fish and Game to intervene.There is a bike trail along this road that starts in Indian and continues all the way to Girdwood, about 12 miles each-way. Bird Creek is also a great place to go camping, and even has two forest service cabins, if you prefer "glamping," which is short for “glamourous camping.” Of course, the term glamourous is subjective. These cabins cost $100 a night and come complete with a propane heater, though you do need to bring your own propane. The beds are wooden platforms, so you'll need sleeping pads and bags for comfort. There is a wooden table and bench for your meals and a fire ring outside for your evening gathering. There is no running water or electricity. The public privy is a short walk away. Alaska has about 200 public service cabins, many of them require that you hike, bike, ski, or hire a water taxi to access them. The cabins at Bird Creek are some of the easiest to reach. But, regardless of how far the trek is to reach a cabin, they are extremely popular, year-round, often booked up months in advance.
Avalanche Alley
You're now entering Avalanche Alley, a long, straight section of road with steep slopes and heavy snowfall, making it highly prone to avalanches. When snow depth becomes a concern, the Alaska Railroad uses a 105 mm howitzer to trigger controlled avalanches. This method aims to keep tracks and road clear by causing small, manageable avalanches rather than risking a large, natural one.There are two main types of avalanches: loose snow avalanches and slab avalanches. Loose snow avalanches start at a single point with a small amount of snow, which gains momentum and brings down more and more material as it grows, while slab avalanches occur when a large, cohesive slab of snow breaks away. Both can be dangerous. We typically see the loose snow variety here.The bike path that we mentioned earlier is on your left. You'll notice that it is raised above road level in this area. Initially, the path was level with the road. It was eventually elevated to help contain the avalanches on that side of the road. This has been largely successful in keeping the road and tracks clear, but avalanches can still occasionally block traffic for a few hours or, in rare cases like in 2000, a few days. You can often see evidence of avalanches at the bottom of the slope, even in summer.
Bird Point, Rest Stop, Bore Tide
Ahead on your right is another great optional photo stop with rustic public restrooms! The Bird Point Scenic Overlook features striking a Beluga whale pod sculpture rising from the concrete path. A trail leads you to an overlook of the Turnagain Arm, with interpretive signs along the way. If the tide is high and fish are running, you might even spot some Beluga whales. There is a $5 parking fee.Bird Point is also a fantastic spot to view our famous Bore Tide. This natural phenomenon occurs a few days each month when we have extreme minus tides. Then the fast flowing outgoing tide meets the rushing incoming tide, creating a wave that can reach 6-10 feet high and travel at 15 miles per hour along the 47-mile arm. The largest Bore Tides happen during a full or new moon. The bore tide is a predictable event with accurate times and dates available on-line to those interested in seeing it or even riding it. Spectators delight in the sight of local surfers lined up to ride the wave that spans the width of the arm. The Turnagain Arm is one of only 60 places in the world where you can witness a tidal bore. The area has also being considered for tidal power generation due to its unique tidal activity.
Ghost Forest
Just past this bend in the road is the Ghost Forest of Girdwood, rumored home of the elusive sasquatch. These standing dead trees are a haunting reminder of the devastating 1964, 9.2 earthquake. The quake, which lasted for almost 5 minutes, caused the silt in this area to settle, sinking 6 to 8 feet. The tsunami that followed, soaked the roots of these trees with saltwater, killing them instantly. About 7-feet of sediments have been deposited here since the earthquake, so what you are seeing is actually the middle part of these trees. Some people called them the silent dogwoods… because they have no bark! We will see more of these trees as we continue down the Arm.
Girdwood Alaska
MP 90 Girdwood/Alyeska:If you have time, Girdwood is worth a stop. It is a great place for lunch and a hike. Turn left onto Alyeska Highway just before the gas station to explore it.Girdwood began as a gold mining town. It was originally called Glacier City. It was later named after Colonel James Girdwood, an Irish immigrant who made a fortune in Linens in New York, before moving to Alaska to chase gold. He staked claims on Crow Creek in 1896 and hired workers who admired him so much that they eventually named the town after him.The town used to be along the Turnagain Arm but was relocated 2.5 miles up Alyeska Highway after sinking during the earthquake. Today, some homes have been rebuilt by the water, but they can't be insured or bought with loans, so they sell for cash only.Alyeska Resort, about 4 miles from the Seward highway, is Alaska’s premier ski destination. The base elevation is 250 feet above sea level and Mount Alyeska rises to 3,939 feet with an aerial tramway running almost year-round to the 2,500-foot level. The town sits in a glacier-carved valley surrounded by the Chugach State Park mountains. Known for heavy snowfall, Mount Alyeska averages about 600 inches of snow each winter.
Glacier's and Glacier Valley's
I hope that you are enjoying the scenery of all of mountains and valleys that surround us! These giant U-shaped valleys tell the story of past glaciation.Glaciers form when snow accumulates and compresses into dense ice, slowly flowing downhill like a slow-moving river. This grinding and shaping process creates U-shaped valleys with steep walls and flat bottoms, a clear sign of glacial activity.In contrast, river valleys, carved over thousands or millions of years by flowing water, typically have a V-shape with gently sloping sides and a narrow bottom. You may see both types of valleys across the water.Alaska boasts about 34,000 square miles of glaciers, roughly the size of Maine. Out of an estimated 100,000 glaciers, only 600 have names. Today, you might see hanging glaciers in the mountains or tidewater glaciers if you're cruising out of Seward or Whittier. Hanging glaciers cling to mountainsides, while tidewater glaciers end in a body of saltwater.Glaciers are either advancing or retreating. An advancing glacier is, as the name implies, moving forward. A retreating glacier is not moving backward, but instead is breaking or calving off of the front of the glacier faster than it is moving forward. Most of Alaska’s glaciers are retreating at this time.
Chugach National Forest - SB
We are about to leave Chugach State Park and enter Chugach National Forest. At 5.4 million acres, Chugach National Forest is the second-largest national forest in the United States. The largest is also in Alaska—Tongass National Forest, with 17 million acres.
20-Mile River
The 20-Mile River, fed by glaciers, flows under the bridge up ahead and into the Turnagain Arm. This area is a hub for springtime fishermen, eager to dip their nets for hooligan, a smelt species. Hooligan are also known by Alaska Native people as "candle fish," because if you dry them and insert a wick, they will burn like candles. The fish are quite oily, in fact 15% of their body weight is fat. Their timely arrival in early spring, provided a vital calorie boost after a harsh winter, earning them another nickname, "Salvation Fish." This spot is a bustling area, serving as both a launch point for boats and a landing point for rafts.
Old Portage, Train Station and Wildlife Conservation Center
This area used to be the town of Portage. The 1964 earthquake and tsunami laid the town to ruins. Sometimes you can see remnants of buildings among the bushes on the right. On your left, you'll see the old Portage Train Station. This station was once a critical stop for anyone venturing to Whittier, Alaska.Ahead on the right is Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. This place has amazing photo opportunities of our local wildlife. The center takes in injured and orphaned animals year-round, providing them with a safe haven and quality care. If you have time to stop, Plan to spend at least an hour here – it's worth every minute! There is an entrance fee, of course.
Turn Off To Whittier and Portage Lake (WDT)
MP 78.9 Turnoff to Portage and Whittier: Coming up on your left is the turn off to Whittier and Portage. Watch for fast moving oncoming traffic as you prepare to turn left.
Crossing a Portage
The term 'Portage' means, literally, to portage or carry a boat between two navigable bodies of water. For hundreds of years, Native Alaskans did just that, to trade between the interior and coastal indigenous peoples. Later, the Russians and gold miners followed this same path. This also happens to be an isthmus, a 14-mile strip of land connecting the Kenai Peninsula to mainland Alaska.
Vancouver Expedition
In 1794, 16 years after Captain Cook’s expedition here, another English Explorer, Captain George Vancouver, sailed the waters in this area aboard the HMS Discovery. He sent his officer Joseph Whidbey to explore the misnamed “River Turnagain” to determine if it was truly a river or just a shallow passage. It was here that Whidbey had a friendly encounter with some Russian trappers. Despite language barriers, the Russians shared valuable information about a portage between Cook Inlet and Prince William SoundAs Vancouver and his crew explored the area, they discovered that Turnagain Arm wasn't a river at all, but a remarkable body of seawater with dramatic tides! Sailing around to the Prince William Sound he found himself within 12 miles of the Turnagain Arm, separated only by this valley we're driving through now.Though Whidbey tried to find the trailhead the Russians and Native traders had described, the pass proved tricky. What looked like an obvious path ended in steep cliffs and waterfalls. He did not find the actual trail, which began along Mount Maynard - the same mountain we'll soon be traveling through via tunnel. Although Vancouver did not find or hike Portage Pass himself, the detailed maps from his expedition showed either side of the pass in great detail as well as the understanding that the pass was there and accessible.
Explorer Glacier
Coming up on your right, you'll find a perfect photo spot. Pull over here to see Explorer Glacier and a peaceful beaver pond below. If you're interested in hiking, the Blue Ice Trail starts here. It's a beautiful 5-mile path that follows Portage Creek all the way to the Begich Boggs Visitors Center. As you look at the mountains, you'll notice several glaciers. First, there's Explorer Glacier, then Middle Glacier. Beyond those, you'll see a special group of glaciers all named after famous poets - Byron Glacier, Shakespeare Glacier, and Burns Glacier. And on the far side of these mountains, flowing toward the town of Whittier, is Whittier Glacier, which gave the town its name.
Story of George Blackstone
In late March of 1897, a small group attempted one of the most infamous crossings of Portage Pass. Charles Blackstone, along with his companions JW Malingue, George Botcher, and their loyal dog Sport, set out from the gold town of Sunrise, near Hope, to meet the first steamship of the year at Portage Bay. Back then, the lake here didn’t exist as Portage Glacier extended past its shores. The trail to get to the pass began by crossing the glacier. The journey was treacherous. The trail would normally be marked by branches, but the trail markers had been wiped away by winter winds and weather.Within an hour of the men reaching the summit, disaster struck. A fierce storm descended upon them, with temperatures plummeting to 40 degrees below zero. The brutal winds swept their supplies over a cliff, leaving them with only blankets and a moose hide for shelter. One by one, the party succumbed to the elements - first Botcher froze to death, then Malingue. Even their dog Sport was blown over the cliff.Blackstone, despite having his ears, nose, and fingers frozen, attempted to find his way to safety alone. Tragically, he wandered in the wrong direction, further up the glacier. Weeks later, his friend George Hall found Blackstone's body with a final note describing their ordeal. The bodies of the other men were never found. The incident made national news. Today, Blackstone Glacier and Blackstone Bay both bear his name - a reminder of the dangerous history of this pass.
salmon viewing platform
Coming up on your right, you'll find one of Alaska's best salmon viewing spots at Williwaw Creek. Pull into the paved parking lot when you see the "Salmon Viewing" sign. From mid-August through early fall, you can watch coho, sockeye, and chum salmon swimming upstream to spawn from a wheelchair-accessible viewing platform. The platform overlooks several deep pools where you can see the salmon's beautiful colors - green heads and bright red bodies - as they make their final journey. Just remember to keep an eye out for black bears who also enjoy fishing in this area!
Snow Plow Guides and Turn to Whitter
The poles that you see on the sides of the road are snow plow guides. In the winter, sometimes it snows so much that those poles are the only way the drivers know where the edge of the road is! Just ahead, you will come to a Y in the road. Stay to the left to go directly to the tunnel. If you have time to explore, you can go to the right to access Begich Boggs visitors center, the Portage Glacier Cafe and Gift Store, the trail to Byron Glacier and the Portage Lake Glacier Cruise.
Trailhead for Byron Glacier hike
Portage Lake Cruise
begich boggs visitor ctr
Bear Valley
That short tunnel, just 450 feet long - has brought us to Bear Valley. Look to your right for a great photo opportunity! You'll see Portage Lake with Burns Glacier on the left and Byron Glacier on the right. Portage Glacier itself used to be visible here 100 years ago, but it has retreated behind that point ahead of us, leaving this beautiful lake behind.Up ahead about half a mile is the toll booth. After you pay, follow the toll attendant's directions to line up in lane 1, 2, or 3. Need a restroom break? There's one in the building on your right just past the toll booth. You can stop there before lining up for the tunnel.
Toll Booth
To reach the remote town of Whittier, you'll pass through one of Alaska's most extraordinary feats of engineering: the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. At 2.5 miles long, it's the longest combined rail and highway tunnel in North Ameria! Originally built during World War II as a railroad tunnel, it was designed to provide a hidden, ice-free supply route to Anchorage in case of enemy attacks on other ports. For decades, it served only trains, but in the year 2000, after extensive upgrades, the tunnel was transformed into a unique dual-use passage, complete with a high-tech system that regulates rail and vehicle traffic on a tight schedule. Vehicles are allowed through in one direction for 15 minutes at a time, alternating each half hour—so timing your trip is key!Safety is a top priority in the tunnel. Every 1,600 feet, you'll notice safe house marked by bright yellow doors. These safe rooms are pressurized, fireproof spaces equipped with emergency supplies, communications equipment, and can each hold about 50 people. The tunnel is monitored 24/7 by cameras and sensors, and features an advanced ventilation system that can clear the air in just 2 minutes.The tunnel is dead straight, and when you're in the center, all you can see are two tiny dots of daylight at either end. It's like driving through the spine of the mountain. An interesting fact: the tunnel floor is actually covered in metal plates that can be flipped to reveal railroad tracks underneath!The tunnel is named for Anton Anderson, the Finnish-born Army engineer, Alaska Railroad chief, and eventual mayor of Anchorage, who led the original construction back in 1941. His design was incredibly advanced for its time—built to endure -40°F cold, 150 mph winds, and avalanches, with blast-resistant portals and even the first jet turbine ventilation system used in a U.S. tunnel. Amazingly, crews working from both ends of the mountain met in the middle with less than one foot off center. What started as a top-secret military route now serves as Whittier's only land connection to the outside world. So as you emerge from this engineering marvel, you're not just entering a town—you're passing through a living WWII artifact, still doing its job more than 80 years later.
Welcome to Whittier
Welcome to Whittier
Whittier Airport
As you exit the tunnel, you will see the “Whittier Airport” on your left (a simple runway). It is just 39 feet above sea level. The runway is just under 1500 feet long and they get an average of 64 planes using the runway each month, mostly local pilots.
Whittier Cruise Ship Terminal
Whittier Cruise SHip Terminal
Do the Whittier Loop
Begich Towers
The Buckner Building
The Whittier Museum
On your right is the Anchor Inn and that is where you will find the Prince WIlliam Sound Museum! It is a small but fascinating museum which gives you a glimpse of Whittier's incredible history!
The Triangle
Trailhead to Portage Pass Hike
Directional 1
Minnesota South
Turn right to head south on Minnesota Drive. We will follow this road to the Seward Highway.One interesting feature along this road is the special fencing that runs 4.5 miles along both sides of Minnesota Drive. It’s a moose fence! This area once had the highest number of moose and car collisions in the city. The federally funded fence helps guide moose away from the highway, making it safer for everyoneYou will notice an occasional moose gate. These are for moose that stubbornly access the road from outside of the fenced area. These gates funnel the moose to the curled pickets that go in only open on one direction… off of the road. The fencing is not an enclosure, so they don’t get trapped. That said, this is an excellent place to see a moose in town.This road is also known as Walter J. Hickel Parkway honoring a significant figure in Alaska's history. Hickel came to Anchorage as a prize fighter in the 1930’s. He became a successful land developer, eventually building the iconic Hotel Captain Cook, which is still run by his family today. He served as Alaska's governor twice and was also the U.S. Secretary of the Interior under Nixon. Hickel was a key player in Alaska's growth. He was instrumental in pushing for Statehood, the Alaska Pipeline, and the Native Claims Settlement Act.When he passed away in 2010, this old prize fighter was buried feet first, per his request, because, he said, “When I get to Heaven, I want to come out fighting for Alaska.”This road will curve and become O’Malley Road. You will cross over the Old Seward highway before coming to the entrance to the New Seward Highway.
