Suffolk House
The Suffolk House flats were constructed in 1936 in the modernist style and replaced a Regency house of the same name. This was formerly the location of Gallipot Farm which, from at least the Middle Ages, sat in isolation about half a mile south of Cheltenham High Street, surrounded by fields with names such as Home Piece, Home Close and the Lypiates. The name Gallipot may refer to a small vessel used for medicines, confections, or similar preparations. In 1756 Gallipot farm was bought by a local solicitor called John Delabere, whose son sold some of the land to Henry Thompson, the builder of the Montpellier estate and Suffolk Parade, at the start of the 19th century. In 1804 he then sold Gallipot Farm to John Howard, the 15th Earl of Suffolk.It was the Earl who enlarged and remodelled the house in about 1808 and renamed it Suffolk House. His heirs sold some of his estate to a Cheltenham hotelier named James Fisher, who built Suffolk Square from about 1823, using the classic Regency layout of a central communal garden with magnificent terraces and grand houses facing towards it around all four sides.At the centre of Suffolk Square we now have Cheltenham Bowling Club, which has been here since 1917, having relocated from a site adjacent to the Town Hall. Cross onto the pavement on the north side of Suffolk Square and walk to St James church.
St James Church - Zizzi
St James' Church was built in 1825-30 on the proprietary system, whereby funds were raised by selling shares. Each shareholder (or ‘proprietor’) received pews in the church according to their shareholding and could rent these out to other residents or visitors to the town.Built largely of limestone, the architectural style is ‘Regency Gothic’ and, apart from some external pinnacles, it has a restraint and simplicity in ornamentation in contrast to many later Victorian churches. The site was donated by James Fisher, the developer of Suffolk Square, and the architect was Edward Jenkins, a local man.The foundation stone was laid in November 1825 during an economic boom but this was followed in December by a financial crisis, which led to the collapse of two of the largest banks in Cheltenham. The difficulty in finding subscribers for the project - and concerns about the load-bearing strength of the columns supporting the gallery - caused delays in the work. Jenkins was eventually replaced by J.B. Papworth, a London architect, who included cast iron pillars to support the roof.The church was completed in 1829 but not consecrated until October 1830 due to a dispute between Reverend Bonner, the first Minister, and the proprietors over the number of pews he had been allocated. The church was successful however and by 1840 the congregation was described as “the most affluent and fashionable of any in Cheltenham”.St James’ finally closed as a place of worship in 1976 and became St Philip & St James’ parish hall. In about 2004 it was sold by the Church and converted into a branch of the restaurant chain Zizzi.Walk south along Suffolk Parade until you come to The Daffodil on the left.
The Daffodil, 18-21 Suffolk Parade
The Daffodil Picture House, the first purpose-built cinema in Cheltenham, was opened in 1922 by Frederick Sims, the owner of a baker’s shop next door. It had 750 seats, including some doubles for use by courting couples. The building has many art deco period features, including repeated use of the daffodil motif.The films were silent and accompanied by a full orchestra for dramatic effect, until a sound system was installed in 1930. A few of them were in full colour as early as the 1920s. Performances were continuous between 2.30pm and 10.30pm. The first film to be shown at the cinema was 'Thunderclap', a silent film made in 1921 by the Fox Film Corporation. During the second world war there were some free performances, sponsored by companies such as Cadburys, no doubt promoting their confectionery. Cheltenham Film Society held their inaugural meeting here in 1945 and continued to show films at The Daffodil for several years. Attendance fell away in the 1950s, with the rise in popularity of television, and the cinema finally closed on 7th September 1963. Continuing as a place of public entertainment, the building immediately reopened as a bingo hall. In the mid 1990s it became a successful restaurant, hosting such events as the Cheltenham Jazz festival, but this closed in August 2022 and the building continues for now as an occasional events venue.Return to Daffodil Street and turn left into Montpellier Villas.
The Beehive, Montpellier Villas
Designed by John Forbes, the architect of the Pittville Pump Room, the oldest part of the building dates from 1822. One of the first landlords was Mr James Carter, who celebrated the birthday of Princess (later Queen) Victoria, in 1837, by displaying a large illuminated star at the front of the building.Upstairs at the rear is a large assembly room, which is now a restaurant. For many years it accommodated meetings of the Independent Order of Oddfellows, an international fraternity consisting of lodges, first documented in 1730 in London. The beehive symbolises working together for the common good, the declared purpose of the Oddfellows, and probably the inspiration for the pub's name.A map of 1857 shows that a gentlemen's urinal was located on the pavement in front of the inn, which must have been a great relief to patrons, if not to local residents!In December 1886 there was a serious fire at the Beehive. Early in the morning the gas lamp lighter was on his round, turning out the street lights, when at 6.20am he noticed a fire through the door of the Inn. The alarm was sounded at the fire station at 6.45am and the brigade turned out promptly, followed by the police. They found the bar in flames and the cellar and a bedroom above also burning. It took an hour to get the fire under control and the damage was estimated to cost around £200 (more than £20,000 in today’s money).In 1905 the Beehive was raided by the police and six men were arrested, suspected of illegal horse-race gambling on the premises. The force had kept watch from the top floor of an empty house in Montpellier Terrace in the morning and had seen many men and boys going in and out of the Inn. Inside they found betting slips, sporting papers and cash.In the 20th century the Inn was a favourite destination for the doctors and nurses from nearby Cheltenham General Hospital and remains at the heart of the local community. Proceed on to Back Montpellier Terrace, which marks the line of an ancient field track, and turn right. Walk to Bath Road, cross carefully at the traffic lights and stand in front of Cheltenham College.
Cheltenham College
The Cheltenham Proprietary College for Boys opened in a house in St George’s Road in 1841, relocating to these new buildings in 1843. The school and its playing fields occupy a large part of the former Sandford common field, stretching away to the east.Facing the Bath Road is the original range, the detailing of which is Victorian Gothic, superimposed on a classical or Georgian plan. It has symmetrical wings and a central tower with detached octagonal turrets. At the southern end is an 1860s range designed by local architect John Middleton for the junior school, whilst at the northern end is the chapel of 1896 by H.A. Prothero, in the Eton and King’s College Cambridge tradition. The school was founded by retired army officers of the East India Company and funded by subscribers for day boys and boarders. Its aims were to prepare boys for university, the Army and the East India Company’s colleges at Addiscombe and Haileybury. There were over 600 pupils within 20 years of its foundation and by the late 19th century it was well known as a school for future soldiers. The octagonal war memorial in front of the college entrance on Bath Road commemorates those who lost their lives in the South African war of 1899-1902.Amongst the many local traders who benefitted from the presence of the school was James Tyler, a baker from Suffolk Parade, who in the 1840s ran the tuck shop, where he was particularly appreciated for his "twopennies", a small sort of raised pie, made of fruit, gooseberries, apples or plums, completely enclosed with pastry and various other delicacies. Continue to Thirlestaine Road and cross the traffic lights to stand in front of Thirlestaine House.
Thirlestaine House
Now part of Cheltenham College, Thirlestaine House was largely built between 1820 and 1823 by an amateur architect named James Robert Scott as his private residence. The mansion, which originally consisted only of the central portion, has been described as the most substantial private house ever built in Cheltenham. It is in the Neo-Classical style, the most notable feature being the grand portico with four fluted Ionic columns and a pediment.The house was originally approached from two entrances on the Bath Road by means of sweeping carriage drives and was concealed behind a high brick wall. At the rear of the house was another great block containing stables, offices, a conservatory and a grapery. In addition there was a paddock for the horses, a kitchen garden and a fruit and flower garden.Thirlestaine House came up for sale in February 1831, when it was described as a "splendid freehold mansion", “on the outskirts of Cheltenham”. The house had a grand suite of 5 rooms connected by massive double doors and a kitchen and cellars similar to those at the Royal Pavilion in Brighton. It was finally bought in 1838 by John Rushout, 2nd Baron Northwick, the owner of Northwick Park, near Blockley. An avid collector of fine art, as a young man he spent about 11 years on a "Grand Tour" of Europe acquiring pictures and in later life was often to be seen at Christie's auction rooms in London.Eventually Lord Northwick's art collection outgrew the available space, so he added two wings in the 1840s, making the entire length of the building about 300 feet. The gallery included works by Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Holbein, Bellini, Rubens and Velasquez and was one of the finest in collections Britain but was dispersed after his death.Cross Bath Road and Suffolk Road at the pedestrian lights to stand in front of the Cotswold Physiotherapy Centre.
Cotswold Physiotherapy Centre, 105-107 Bath Road
This building sits at the corner of Suffolk Road, which was once an ancient farm track across the Sandford and Westall open fields. Two centuries ago, then called Commercial Road, it marked the southern limit of Cheltenham.Formerly known as Sandford Lawn, the property was constructed in the 1820s and became the family home of Major General John Swiney of the Madras Army and his wife Rosa. John was born at Fort William, Kolkata (Calcutta), in 1832, and came from a line of Indian Army officers. His father and uncle were founding subscribers to Cheltenham College, opposite, of which he was an early pupil. Rosa was the co-founder of the Cheltenham branch of the National Women's Suffrage Society and served as its President in 1907, supported by her husband. She often corresponded about the suffrage movement in the local press, wrote articles about the emancipation of women in various countries and hosted conferences and garden fetes at their home.Shortly after Rosa’s death, in 1923 this became the home of the Irving Academy of Dancing and Dramatic Art, founded and managed by Madame Ethel Irving. She installed an ex-army hut in the grounds, which became the "Little Theatre". It could seat 200 and hosted many shows by the pupils of the Academy. In 1937 Ethel Irving converted Sandford Lawn into a hotel, appointing her son Charles as the manager in 1943. He was a dynamic businessman and local politician, serving as the mayor in 1957 and 1971, and was the MP for Cheltenham from 1974-1992. Whilst Margaret Thatcher was Prime Minister Charles Irving sent her fresh flowers every day at 10 Downing Street. He was knighted in 1990 and, following his death and cremation in 1995, arranged for his ashes to be scattered over Cheltenham from a light aircraft.Walk along the north pavement of Suffolk Road until you are facing The Guild Hairdressing.
The Guild Hairdressing, 18-20 Suffolk Road
This building was formerly the site of numbers 9 & 10 Northwick Terrace, once a continuation of the Regency row to the left as we face the building. In 1851 number 10 Northwick Terrace was leased by Mr Pio Cianchettini, who was born in London in 1799, of a musical family. When he was only 5 years old he performed a sonata of his own composition at the Opera House in London, being hailed as the "English Mozart". Pio later became a celebrated music performer and teacher, playing the piano and conducting popular concerts in London and at local venues such as the Montpellier Rotunda.In the mid 20th century the house and its occupants suffered a terrible fate which would have been unimaginable to earlier generations. On the dark evening of 11th December 1940 there was an air raid, in which more than 100 high explosive bombs and many incendiaries were dropped from 7.30pm until after midnight, by waves of raiders. One of the bombs hit this house, destroying the property and killing Mrs Annie Elizabeth Iles, aged 55. In total 23 people died and 600 lost their homes.The newspapers were unable to report air raids during the war but when it ended, the Gloucestershire Echo, in May 1945, described the appalling events of that night as follows.“Viewed from the centre of town the attack was an unforgettable and terrifying spectacle, with anti-aircraft guns blazing away, shrapnel exploding in the star-lit sky, and bombs crashing down with a violence that shook the whole town."The damaged properties either side of 20 Suffolk Road were demolished and rebuilt after the war, in an unsympathetic architectural style.Walk further along Suffolk Road until you are opposite The Suffolk Arms.
The Suffolk Arms
The Suffolk Arms dates from 1824 and is probably the oldest building in this street. The land upon which it sits was once part of a field called New Grotten, which belonged to Charles Brandon Trye, Lord of the Manor of Leckhampton.In earlier times public houses were often the venues for public events such as auctions and coroner’s inquests. An early house auction was held here at the Suffolk Arms on 31st May 1827, in the reign of George IV.Just a few months before Queen Victoria was crowned in 1837, Charles Scott took over the Inn, advertising well-aired beds and good stabling for his guests’ horses. Commercial travellers and visitors to the Cheltenham races, then held high up on Cleeve Hill, were some of the target clientele.By 1889 the landlord, Mr Dawes, was advertising Smoking Concerts at the Inn on Wednesday and Friday evenings in the winter season. Smoking concerts were popular in Victorian times and consisted of live performances, usually of music, before a men-only audience. The evening would include political discussion, whilst the men smoked and listened to the music. These events continued to be held at the Inn well into the 20th century.In April 1896 Edward Stephens, who claimed to be delivering milk to the Inn, was fined 10 shillings (50 new pence) for not having proper control of his horse and cart. Apparently he had left the rig outside for half an hour without chaining the wheels to prevent the horse driving away. Runaway horses were a considerable hazard and this was regarded as a serious safety offence.In common with most of the local public houses, at the start of the 20th century this was the base for many social gatherings and sports clubs and the pub was a centre for the local community. Walk further along Suffolk Road until you are opposite Armada Antique Crystal Chandeliers.
Armada Antique Crystal Chandeliers, 54 Suffolk Road
In the early 19th century hereabout were masons’ yards, where limestone from the Leckhampton quarries was worked. The site remained vacant until Albert Stone, owner of the Bon Marche drapery store in Bristol, purchased this building in 1880 for £1,175 and the terrace became known as Bon Marche Place. The name was understood to roughly translate as "good value" or “good deal”. The drapery business was sold in about 1882 to Ralph and Jessie Negus.In 1886 Ralph Negus advertised a "Bazaar and Fancy Fair" at his shop and in 1890 obtained permission from the council to hang a large lamp outside to attract customers. At Christmas 1906 the Bon Marche sold aprons, gloves, hosiery, post card albums, watches, clocks, dolls and toys. By 1909 they had a counter where everything could be bought for one penny.Ralph's and Jessie's younger son, Ralph Albert Negus, a 2nd Lieutenant in the Gloucestershire Regiment, was killed in action on 18th April 1916. The advertising became more muted and the shop closed sometime after 1921, without fanfare.In 1925 Reed and Patterson took over the premises, renaming it the Grafton Garage. They were the authorised distributors for Daimler motor cars, with saloon models priced at £700 (the average weekly wage was about £5). In 1927 the shop became a branch of Cheltenham and Gloucester Car Mart Ltd, the largest car dealers in Gloucestershire and in 1933 the Suffolk Garage acquired the property. This company began in about 1920 in Suffolk Parade and by 1938 they were agents for Austin, Standard, Morris, Hillman and Lagonda.Later in 1938 the business was taken over by Gloucestershire Motors, who during the difficult years of the Second World War, sold mostly used cars and bought vehicles for government service. After the war they became the Citroen county distributors, continuing to trade at 54 Suffolk Road until at least the late 1960s.Walk to the corner of Suffolk Parade.
Bodega, 34 Suffolk Parade
This shop was in the same trade longer than any other in Suffolk Parade. From at least 1838, beginning with Mr John Lapidge, it was a grocery and tea dealership.By 1860 Mr Charles Malvern was the grocer and in 1887 Mr C.J. Davies, who was also a wine and beer merchant, incorporated the Great Norwood Street Post Office into the shop.In April 1909, as White’s Stores, the building suffered a serious fire, which was discovered at 2am by a neighbour, who rode to the fire station on his tricycle to raise the alarm. Meanwhile Mr White rushed to the shop from his home in Montpellier Villas to rescue some of his private papers and post office records.The fire brigade received the alarm at 2.15 am and despatched a first-aid hose cart, a ladder cart and the 'Theobald steamer' fire engine. It took 2 hours to get the fire under control, by which time a large amount of damage estimated at £1,000 had been caused. A quantity of highly inflammable sugar stored in the basement may have added to the conflagration.Finally in 1932 came a name remembered by many, Allan Whittern, who continued the grocery and had an old fashioned off-licence selling ales, stout, wines & spirits. The shop was traditional with mahogany counters and staff wearing long white aprons. Dry goods were measured out from drawers under the counter, whilst butter and cheese were cut by hand and sold by weight.Allan Whittern ran the business until his death in 1982 and was succeeded by his son, Alan. Since Whittern's closed in 1991 the shop has been an antiques store and more recently a ladies fashion boutique, with some of the fittings preserved from the grocers shop.From here you may wish to take a short detour into Great Norwood Street with its boutique shops and welcoming cafes. Then continue along Suffolk Road until you near the traffic lights at the junction with Suffolk Square.
Ecctis Ltd, 68-70 Suffolk Road
This site witnessed a remarkable continuity of trade and an important social and technological transition. The modern office block standing here conceals a history associated with road transport for more than 140 years.In 1830 this property was known as Suffolk Mews, consisting of stables and coach houses surrounding an open yard. The first recorded proprietor of Suffolk Mews was Mr Richard Addis, who in 1837 was a 'flyman' living in nearby Montpellier Villas. In other words he drove a 'fly', a light covered vehicle that could be drawn by a single horse, often on hire. He rented out stabling and secure vehicle lock-ups, private facilities possessed by few houses.The next owner, Richard Glover, operated the ‘Rival’ London coach but soon disposed of that business, probably anticipating the direct train service to London, which started in 1847. The Golden Age of stage coaches in Britain was between 1800 and 1830, when improved roads and suspension allowed average speeds of 8 miles per hour.By 1906 the business was owned by William Thomas Smith, who ran horse-drawn ‘brake’ trips to Birdlip on Saturday and Wednesday afternoons - early closing days for Cheltenham shops. In 1907 he advertised two loads of horse manure for sale weekly!Mr Smith was at Suffolk Mews for the next 13 years, during momentous change. The business was now called Montpellier & Suffolk Mews and used telephone number 121.This was the dawn of the motor car era and throughout the period 1910-1918 horses and motor vehicles shared Suffolk Mews. By 1915 the newspapers were referring to the Suffolk Mews Garage and the company was running taxis. In 1938 the Gloucestershire Echo claimed this had been the first motor taxi service in Cheltenham.Suffolk Mews was bought and renamed the Montpellier Motor & Garage Co. in about 1920. Modern repair shops were installed and the company had taxis, open-top cars, light lorries and a charabanc, with space for 30 cars. In 1922 they were agents for the Hampton Engineering Company, based in Stroud, selling a 1795 cc four-cylinder engine car for £480. By 1926 the garage belonged to Herbert Sumner, who had driven horse carriages as a young man. The business traded for almost 60 years, later selling petrol as the Montpellier Service Station. It closed in about 1980, ending the association with road transport.Either return to Suffolk Square and the starting point of the walk or enjoy a short diversion to explore Park Place.
Park Place
Before returning to Suffolk Square you may wish to cross Suffolk Road and take a short stroll along Park Place from the traffic lights.The fine villas here were the first to be developed for the gentry to the south of Suffolk Road from about 1810, when they would have been surrounded by fields.By 1834 most of the northern stretch of the road was fully built-up with a fine set of smaller villas, forming terraces or separate buildings. They display a harmony that is the mark of 'Regency' Cheltenham and several had the finest examples of the ironwork which graces many Regency and Victorian buildings in the town. Some have modified Greek porticoes, with widely spaced columns to allow a dignified entry for ladies in crinolines!Retrace your steps to Suffolk Square and the end of your tour.
End of Tour
You have now reached the end of your walking tour. Stroll back along Suffolk Square and enjoy a well-earned rest on one of the benches in Montpellier Gardens. Or return to the heart of the Suffolks to browse the shops and cafes on Suffolk Parade and Great Norwood Street.If you have enjoyed this Cheltenham Local History Society Walk you can use PocketSights to explore our other historical Cheltenham Walks. Or, to find out about becoming a member, click here.
