Tram Stop
Welcome to the start of this tour! On this tour you will see a variety of sites, including churches, museums, gardens, and local businesses. Our first stop is the Dancing House, an impressive piece of Prague architecture. After exiting the tram, carefully cross the street to the grassy area where a statue is located. From here, you can get a great view of the Dancing House.
Dancing House
Our first stop is the Dancing House. The area where this modern structure now stands was actually destroyed by the United States on February 14th, 1945 when an air raid was carried out due to navigational mistakes. This land lay in ruins until 1960 when it was cleared but stayed empty until after 1990, when the Nationale Nederlanden company bought it. The buildings unique design was created by the architects Vlado Milunic (Vlado Mayunize) and Frank O.Gehry and completed construction in 1996. In contrast to the many Baroque, Gothic, and Art Nouveau buildings in Prague, the Dancing House stands out with its curved glass wall and concrete towers representing two dancers. The building houses numerous office spaces, a luxury hotel, art gallery, and a restaurant with a viewing terrace. This area can become overcrowded at times, with many individuals waiting to take photos kicking the building. This is usually done by standing next to the statue of Alois Jirásek. He was a famous writer, teacher, and politician in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. On the rest of our tour, you will see that just a few minutes away, there are many amazing hidden gems that showcase authentic Prague. To continue our tour, cross the street towards the Dancing house and continue walking straight down the street.
Rašínovo nábřeží
This riverbank, known as Naplavka, is a popular gathering spot, and plays host to a variety of cultural events, restaurants, and bars throughout the year. Every Saturday, you can find a farmers’ market that features many local Czech bakeries, farms, butchers, and handcrafted goods. In June, be sure to attend the annual beer festival that showcases more than 60 local Czech breweries. Close to the Dancing House, there are also converted ice vaults that have been converted to cafes and art exhibits. Keep walking straight to continue. Farmers Market Hours: Saturdays, February – December, 08.00-14.00
Stumble Stones
If you look closely at the cobblestone sidewalks around the city, you will find many of these brass memorials. While they may be easy to miss, they preserve the stories of countless Holocaust victims, and act as potent, thoughtful reminders of the horrors that occurred. They are called Stolpersteine in German, or in English, stumble stones. These stones are located in the ground in front of the last chosen residence of someone deported between the years of 1939 and 1944 as a result of Nazi ethnic cleansing policies. Almost every stone starts with “here lived” followed by the name of the person, their year of birth, their year of deportation, and if known, the name of the concentration camp and what happened to them. The stones here say, “Here lived, Ilona Kleinova, born 1889, deported 1942 to Terezin, murdered October 14th, 1944 in Auschwitz” and “Here lived, Gideon Klein, born 1919, deported 1941 to Terezin, murdered 1945 in Auschwitz”. Gideon Klein is particularly well remembered, as a Czech Jewish pianist, composer, and educator of music. Prior to invasion, Klein was a part of a vibrant, avant-garde music scene. When Klein was deported to the Terezin concentration camp, alongside several other composers at the camp, he held concerts in secret. His works from these years are still preserved, and include music for a string quartet, a string trio, a piano sonata, amongst many more. As of April 2023, there are more than 90,000 stumble stones spread over more than 2000 cities/towns in 28 European countries. This constitutes the largest, decentralized war memorial in the world. Keep walking straight until you see a plaza and statue – that will be our next stop.
František Palacký
The monument to František Palacký from 1912 is a dominant feature of Palacký náměstí on the northern bridgehead of Palacký bridge in Prague 2. At the time of its creation, it symbolized the successful emancipation of the Czech nation and its path to statehood. František Palacký was a Czech historian and politician and was the most influential person of the Czech National Revival. Palacký is considered as one of the three “Fathers of the Nation”, alongside Charles IV and Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. His portrait now resides on the 1000 CZK banknote. Palacký náměstí, the square in which the monument sits, is nicknamed Prague Hyde Park as it is the only place in the country which allows public assemblies without prior notice. The square was created during the expansion of Podskalí, a medieval lumberjack village. The village even used to compete with the Old Town in selling wood for a long time. It was also known because of the first public transport route of the Prague Horse Railroad between the Jirásek and Palacky squares in 1883. Take a left in front of the statue, past the Palackého náměstí tram stop, and walk straight. Just past the tram stop, cross the street and turn right to continue down the street. The next destination will be further down.
I Need Coffee!
I need coffee is a perfect representation of Prague’s growing coffee industry. Many are surprised to learn of Prague’s coffee and café culture, as these businesses have developed significantly in the past decade. While it was once nearly impossible to get filter coffee, you can see a variety of styles across all the districts of Prague. The very first coffee shop in Prague was not opened by a Czech man, but by a Turkish man – explaining why Turkish coffee continues to have strong roots in the city. Step inside to a simple, cozy atmosphere with a wide variety of locally produced sandwiches and sweets. We recommend the puff pastry with a merengue filling. Interested in learning more? According to locals and baristas alike, Prague’s coffee community has an inclusive, laid-back attitude, unlike many coffee-centric cities. In general, your barista will be happy to explain and help you navigate around the menu. To get to the next stop, walk to the end of the street and take a right. I Need Coffee! Hours: Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa 10-17
Faust House
An amalgamation of different architectural styles and connections to various legends, the mysterious Faust House was home to many eccentric individuals. On the site there was a significant road connecting the nearby Vyšehrad to Prague Castle. The house was built in the 14th century in the Gothic style but was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Renaissance style, but now lends its current appearance to its more recent Baroque reconstruction. The Faust House, which sits on the corner of Charles Square, was initially owned by Prince Václav of Opava who had a great interest in alchemy and natural sciences. The following owners included the alchemist Mladota of Solopysk and Karl Jaenig, a man so obsessed with death that he had funeral objects scattered around the house. The Faust House has been associated with dark history since the 17th century with the residence of infamous alchemist and charlatan, Edward Kelley. Kelley had promised Emperor Rudolph II that he knew how to convert ordinary metals to gold but was soon arrested due to unrelated reasons. Following his arrest, the emperor had him tortured for his knowledge of alchemy, but he never passed on his secrets. The house didn’t get its name until the 19th century, when it was named after the legendary Dr. Faust, even though records indicate that he never visited Prague. Dr. Faust was best known for his pact with the devil in an effort to gain more scientific knowledge. With homeowners’ experiments leaving holes throughout the house, and the links to alchemy and black magic, some believe that the house is cursed. Today, the house is closed to the public and is part of the Faculty of Medicine of Charles University. Right next to the Faust House are some great local businesses, make sure to click on stop number 8 to learn more.
Lunar and Leli's Cupcakes
Prague is home to numerous small, family-owned businesses, especially outside the main city center. Check out Lunar in the summer season for a wide variety of nanuk, a popular ice cream in Czechia. Lunar was founded in 2018 by Jakub and Leli, who were motivated to open their own business after making popsicles with their daughter at home. And why the name Lunar? According to the couple, their popsicles “not only look, but taste like the Universe. Beautiful and full of flavor” Visiting in the winter months? Look around Leli’s cupcakes. Leli and her husband were inspired to open this business after a trip to San Francisco, where they were inspired by the numerous specialty cake shops. They even have cookbooks for purchase if you are interested in starting a new hobby. Continue straight to out next stop. Lunar Hours: Open in summer (Unknown hours) Lunar Website: https://www.lovelunar.com/ Leli’s Cupcakes Hours: Mon-Fri 10-19, Sat 10-18 Leli’s Cupcakes Website: https://www.leliscupcakes.com/
Center for Architecture and Metropolitan Planning
Take a right here to head toward the next few sites. Immediately on your right you can see the Center for Architecture and Metropolitan Planning. This building hosts limited time exhibits on various urban planning projects across Prague, such as designing a new main train station or the interaction between the city and the Vltava River. The exhibits are free so take some time and check it out! As you continue walking, on your left you will see the Monastery and eventually reach a scenic lookout over the city. Here, you can see the Prague to its Victorious Sons statue, which is dedicated to the victims of WWI and the Czechoslovak legionnaires.
Na Slovanech (Emmanus Monastary)
The Emmaus Monastery, or Na Slovanech as it was called in the Middle Ages, was established by Charles IV in 1347. At the time, it was the only Benedictine monastery in Bohemia and Slavic Europe and was a center of learning, art and Slavic culture. In the cloisters you can find the 85 Gothic wall paintings that form parallels with the Old and New Testaments, with the Church of the Virgin Mary painted in the Beuron style. The cloisters also contain original frescoes with Pagan symbolism from the 14th century. Two towers were added in the 17th and 18th centuries when the monastery was reconstructed in the Baroque style, but they no longer stand. Charles IV gave to the monastery the manuscript Reims Gospel, which was most likely lost at the time of the Hussite Wars and now is part of the Reims Cathedral treasury in France. During WWII, the monastery was under the control of the Gestapo and the monks residing there were sent to the Dachau concentration camp. During a US air raid in February 1945, the building and vaults were destroyed. The two towers mentioned earlier were destroyed in this raid and the monastery was rebuilt with the iconic white steeples in the 1960s. In 1990, the monastery was finally returned to the Benedictine order and is now administered by three monks. If you’d like to learn more, you can enter the monastery for 90 CZK, from 11:00 to 16:00 or 17:00, depending on the time of year. Turn around and head back to the main street. Take a right, and you will see our next stop across the street. Hours: Nov – Apr, Mon – Fri, 11-16 May – Oct, Mon – Sat, 11-17 Entrance Fee: 90 CZK
Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Skalka
This baroque church was built over the course of 8 years, starting in 1730. Originally administered by monks from Emmaus Monastery, it was only accessible from the Charles Square gardens. The distinctive, grand double staircase wasn’t completed until later, in 1776. The church on the rock has a beautiful interior with a ceiling fresco painted by Franz Anton Muller. While the church has many treasures, its most iconic is the statue of St. John Nepomuk, which was copied and placed on the Charles Bridge in 1683. The statue of St. John of Nepomuk is the oldest of Charles Bridge. Continue walking along the street and cross the street to the other side at the next main intersection. You will then see the Charles University Botanical Gardens ahead on your left.
Botanická zahrada Přírodovědecké fakulty UK
The Charles University Botanical Garden is one of the oldest university gardens in Europe, dating back to 1775. The gardens have been at their current location since 1898 and host thousands of plants from all over the world. As you walk through the entrance, you can see a large greenhouse to your left housing many tropical and subtropical plants, cacti, and succulents. Access to these areas does require a small admission fee, which can be seen in the description, payable only in cash. As you venture further into the garden, you can see some subtropical plants (in the summertime) and conifers to your right, and many Central European flora and fauna in front of the greenhouse buildings. Some of the plants in this area date back to 1904, such as the Ginko biloba tree, which is located right in front of the greenhouse. The botanical garden also holds many noteworthy succulents and one of the first dawn redwoods introduced to Europe. The gardens are visited by over 100,000 people a year with all outdoor areas being freely accessible, so take some time and explore! Opening hours vary throughout the year, so check the website for the most up to date information. If the gardens are closed, walk along the garden side on Benatska street. Continue walking though the garden to the exit. If the gate is closed, another exit can be found along the wall right behind the large brick building close to the greenhouses. Hours: Month Greenhouse* Garden° February – March 10am – 3.30pm 10am – 6pm April – August 10am – 4.30pm 10am – 7.00pm August – October 10am – 4.30pm 10am – 6pm October – January 10am – 3pm 10am – 6pm Cost: Adults: 100 CZK Children (6-15), Students (up to 26), Seniors: 50 CZK Family (2 adults, up to 3 children 6-15 years old): 250 CZK
Mrtvá Ryba
Mrtvá Beer and drinking is heavily ingrained in Czech social life, with the country consuming an average of 160 liters of beer per person every year. Beer here is measured with degrees, which signify the amount of malt extract used in the brewing process. The most popular is 12 degrees, a regular lager. Lower degree brews have a weaker extract and will be less filling, while higher degrees will have a stronger taste and stronger alcohol percentage. Not sure where to start? You can’t go wrong with a pilsner, or the most popular brand, Pilsner Urquell. Pilsner Urquell is the biggest brewery in the country and brewed the first Pilsner in history, right here in Bohemian lands. Want to try a Prague based brew? Try a Staropramen, or even take a tour of their brewery right here in the city. Unsurprisingly, you’ll find Czech food to pair nicely with beer. It is common to find thick soups, sauces, and various stewed meat with bread dumplings across the cuisine. Grab a bite to eat with your drink for a nice lunchtime spot. Continue walking up the street and then cross the street to the archway to see the Church. Hours: Mon-Fri 11-23, Sun 18-23
Church of St. Katherine of Alexandria
Established in 1355 by Charles IV as part of the Augustine convent is the Church of St. Katherine of Alexandria. Today it is under the administration of the Orthodox Church, which uses it for worship and church meetings, concerts and spiritual culture projects. One important note: the door to the garden area is occasionally closed, so you may be unable to get a closer look at the church’s exterior. The original building was Gothic and you can still see some elements of this era in the octagonal tower, nicknamed the “Prague Minaret”. In 1737 the church was redone in the Baroque style and today it is considered one of the most beautiful buildings of Prague’s high and late Baroque. The beautiful interior is rich with ceiling frescoes, with the central fresco depicting St. Katherine with pagan scholars. The church is one of the five churches founded by Charles IV in the New Town district which form a cross, with the Church of St Katherine of Alexandria making up the Northern Point Stay on the main street and follow along the exterior walls of the church’s garden.
Municipal Maternity Clinic of St. Apollinaire
At the time of its founding, the Municipal Maternity Clinic of St. Apollinaire was the largest maternity hospital in all of Europe. An impressive building constructed in the neo-gothic style, it was originally built with red bricks that were vibrant enough to earn it the nickname “The Red House”. However, due to the belief that unpainted bricks were better at preventing infection, the bricks have now faded, giving the building the dark imposing visage we see today. The hospital was commissioned by the Municipal Committee of the Bohemian Kingdom to replace an old maternity hospital nearby as it was no longer big enough to support the community. The building was designed by Josef Hlavka, a famous Czech architect, construction entrepreneur, politician and philanthropist. He traveled around Europe, finding inspiration for the design from the hospital of Brussels, Vienna, and Paris. Construction began in 1865 and finished 10 years later in 1875. The hospital consists of an inner courtyard and eleven pavilion tracts. It also has two luxurious secret compartments where members of the upper class who became unexpectantly pregnant could give birth and give their children away in secret. In addition to the services the hospital’s medical, midwife, and obstetrician clinics provided, there was also a foundling asylum where mothers who could not look after their children could leave them. The treatment at the hospital was divided into three levels according to price. The richest Prague women enjoyed lavish treatment from midwives, nurses, servants, maids, and cooks during their stay here, but many poorer women also visited the lower price levels with fewer amenities. The hospital is still in use today and approximately 4,600 children are born here annually. While the historic outside of the building is still preserved, the inside was renovated in the 90s after being damaged in WWII. This renovation also allowed for the city to bring in new medical equipment and facilities, making this building a perfect example of cohesion between Czech history and current culture. To continue following this tour, take a right at the end of the street and continue straight. Feel free to enjoy the impressive view of the Maternity hospital as you walk!
Czech Police Museum
Next to the Church is the Police Museum, which is housed in the former Augustinian monastery. This monastery was established back in 1350 by Charles IV. The building was given to the state in 1785 after the order was abolished and later used as a hospital until 1955. Throughout the following years, the building had numerous governmental uses and renovations, until it became the Police Museum in 1990. This museum presents the history of security and police forces in the Czech Republic and former Czechoslovakia. There are a mix of short term and permanent exhibition such as the history, equipment, and uniforms of various police forces. There are also exhibits on forensic science, drug tracking, and border protection. Behind the museum building in the courtyard, there is a traffic playground that showcases numerous police cars, guard towers, and other vehicles including a helicopter and even a tank! If you’re interested in visiting, full price tickets are 100 CZK with discounts for seniors and students. One important note is that many exhibits are only in Czech, so you may need to translate with an app. More information about opening hours can be found in the description. Head back out of the entrance you came in and take a left. At the end of the street, enter the open gate on your left. If one of the gates is closed, you can also walk though the courtyard area and turn right to continue the tour. Hours: Monday Closed Tuesday 10:00 - 17:00 Wednesday 10:00 - 17:00 Thursday 10:00 - 17:00 Friday 10:00 - 17:00 Saturday 10:00 - 17:00 Sunday 10:00 - 17:00
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary & Charles the Great
As with many historic places in Prague, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary & Charles the Great was founded by emperor Charles IV as part of the former covenant of the Augustinian Order. It was built to help Prague fit its new role as capital of the Holy Roman Empire. The unusual octagonal floor plan is proof of this as it directly refers to the Aachen Cathedral in Germany, the main building of the Imperial Palace of Charles the Great in Aachen. The construction of the church began 1351 in the Gothic style under architect Matthew of Arras, who also designed St. Vitus Cathedral located in Prague Castle. The church also features three cupolas which were completed in the Baroque Style in the mid-18th century. This church, along with the Church of St. Katherine of Alexandria, makes up part of the cross of churches in New Town, specifically the eastern point. According to legend, the builder of the vault made a deal with the devil to ensure its completion. After seeing its completed size, the builder, full of fear that the vault would collapse, hung himself on the scaffolds. The vault survived. If you’re interested, there are regular Roman Catholic masses on Sunday at 9:30 and at 17:00 and tour groups daily except on Sundays on phone order. Next to the Church is the Police Museum, make sure to click on the stop to learn more and continue your tour.
Zahrada Ztracenka (The Lost Garden)
Zahrada Ztracenka, or the Lost Garden got its name from its hidden location on the slopes between Karlov and Albertov. This beautiful garden is visited often by Prague locals going on leisurely walks, or just looking for a place to relax. Although it is a beautiful Italian-style garden today, the Lost Garden has a rich, complex history. It originated in the 18th century as an orchard and vineyard, and also served as a children’s playground during the Soviet Era. After the Cold War ended, the garden unfortunately became neglected and overgrown. However, in 2010 a project began to renovate the old park to its former glory. The project took four years and was led by the Czech architect Michal Gavlas. It was a very demanding project and involved cutting down old trees and planting completely new ones in their place. In addition, Galvas used brick walls to create terraces throughout the garden. In total the renovation cost 25 million crowns, which is approximately 112 thousand USD. The gardens are open daily from 8:00 and close at 18:00 from October – April and 20:00 from May – September. They offer grand views of some of the neighborhoods of Prague, including Podskali, Albertov, and Vysehrad. Feel free to relax for a while and take in the impressive skyline!
Bastion XXXI
The Baroque Bastion XXXI was created in 1348 by Emperor Charles IV and is part of the original fortifications surrounding the New Town of Prague. This defensive complex is hidden all around contemporary Prague and includes the impressive walls and the Vysehrad Fortress. This property used to be forgotten and derelict but was renovated in the last century and even won the National Architecture award in 2012! Today the Bastion serves as the location for the Bastion Prague Restaurant. This high-end restaurant hosts a seasonal menu that combines Czech and international cuisine. The impressive view of Vysehrad, the Vltava embankment, and the Petrin lookout tower make it the perfect place for events, and it is often used for wedding ceremonies and art exhibitions. In the gardens around the restaurant, you can rest on modern benches and view the current sculpture exhibition. The sculptures in this space rotate periodically, so it is a great place to come back to and revisit at a different time. Some Czech artists that have had their works displayed here include Olbram Zoubek, Radek Andrle, and Michael Gabriel. On this tour you have seen some of the breathtaking churches, gardens, and views of Prague as well as visited some of the local businesses. You have walked through the Vinohrady neighborhood and learned about the rich lives of some of the people who lived here. However, this is just one tiny corner of Prague, and you can find places like this all over the city, you just have to look a little harder. If you want somewhere to start, we recommend the Vysehrad fortress. It is a beautiful bit of Prague with a rich history and breathtaking views, a perfect place to continue your exploration of the hidden gems of Authentic Prague. You can leave the garden the way you came in, or by going down the spiral staircase down to Folimanka Park. This park is a beautiful place that is wonderful to walk through in any season, especially fall when all the leaves have changed color. It also provides an easy route to the nearest tram stop. To get to the tram stop, simply go to the far end of the garden and descend the spiral staircase. From there, go through the walkway in the wall and down the steps to end up in Folimanka Park. From Folimanka Park you can head to the right and follow the path to the road. When you get to the road, you should be able to see the tram stop on your right.
