Stories from the Dixie Highway
In 1837, the Northern Route of the Cherokee Trail of Tears passed through Murfreesboro. This route served as an alternate route that did not feature tolls. It saw both forced and voluntary migration of the Cherokee people. The road served as a segment of the Nashville Turnpike that was instrumental for troop movements during the Civil War, and particularly during the Battles of Murfreesboro and Stones River. College Street was part of the Dixie Highway and formed a stretch known as Gasoline Alley. Dixie Highway underwent construction from 1915-1927. Extended from Ontario, Canada to Miami, Florida, about 5706 miles. Western Division passed through Murfreesboro; Western and Eastern divisions met in Chattanooga.
Mt. Zion Baptist Church
Mt. Zion’s Gothic Revival sanctuary was built in 1884. A strong African American congregation since its creation, Mt. Zion experienced racial hardships from the Reconstruction period through the Civil Rights era. This church developed when a faction group of African American religious leaders split from the National Baptist Convention Inc. in 1872 to pursue missionary work as the core of their religious teaching. In the early twentieth century, Rev. A. F. Murray oversaw the establishment of this church’s mission fund, which served underprivileged civilians. Murray also sponsored political advertisements which encouraged African Americans to vote in local civil assemblies. During the civil rights era, several of the front and side windows were destroyed by racial violence. Mt. Zion persists as a pillar of Murfreesboro’s African American community.
Origins of Murfreesboro
Murfreesboro was established as county seat in 1811; originally named “Canonsburgh” for Newton Cannon, a state legislator and changed to “Murfreesborough” in honor of Revolutionary War veteran Hardee Murfree at the request of William Lytle (1755-1829); Lytle was given land in Tennessee for his service, from which he donated 60 acres with spring water source to develop Murfreesboro.Murfreesboro's public “square” design began in Middle TN in early 19th century and spread west of the Tennessee River over the course of the century; typically features a courthouse in a central block surrounded by four commercial sides; acted as a historic center for political, commercial, and financial power. Rutherford County's first courthouse was erected in 1812; it burned and was partially rebuilt in 1822; the present courthouse was erected between 1859-1861 in the Greek Revival style; in 1955 there was a discussion to raze the courthouse; but strong opposition prevailed; wings were added between 1959-1961; it represents 1 of 6 antebellum courthouses remaining in Tennessee.
Murfreesboro During the Civil War
The Battle of Murfreesboro occurred July 13, 1862; Union troops held the Courthouse as it provided a strategic height location for marksmen and communication needs; Confederate troops moved in towards the courthouse, took heavy casualties, but were able to enter the courthouse and set fire to the first floor to smoke out the Union troops on the upper levels; around 1200 Union troops were taken prisoner.
Religion and the Arts in Murfreesboro
Murfreesboro Center for the Arts was originally an undertaker and carpentry shop; then livery stable on site; became site for the US Post Office; current building built in 1909-1910; designed by James Knox Taylor-architect of the US Treasury; first federal building in Murfreesboro and Rutherford County; built in Renaissance Revival style; in the 1960s became home of Linebaugh Library; in the 1990s became the Center for the Arts.The First Methodist congregation had two prior church sanctuaries before this current structure was built. The First Methodist congregation had a structure on Maple Street and College Street in 1823 before moving to Church and College Street in the 1840s, which was eventually remodeled in 1888. This church sanctuary was constructed by H.C. Jackson in the Romanesque Revival Style and completed in 1888. In 2016, Murfreesboro city government bought the building from Franklin Synergy Bank, and in June 2019, Murfreesboro’s City council announced that it had sold the property to a developer, One East College LLC. The developer has agreed to incorporate the church sanctuary and bell tower into mixed development plans.First Presbyterian’s congregation dates to 1812, meeting at what was known as the Murfree Spring Church on East Vine Street by the Old City Cemetery. Rev. Henderson, the first pastor, also led the church’s log cabin school, which developed into Bradley Academy. One of Rev. Henderson’s first pupils was James K. Polk, the 11th president of the United States. The original log church served as the state capital from 1818 to 1826 and as a field hospital during the Civil War but was dismantled in 1868 by the Union for building materials and supplies. A new brick building was constructed on the corner of College and Spring street in October of 1868. This brick church sanctuary was destroyed by a 1913 tornado, but its bell tower remained intact and can be seen in today’s current Neoclassical building, constructed in 1914.
The Rutherford Health Department
Completed in 1931 in the Colonial Revival Style, the Rutherford Health Department was funded by the Commonwealth Fund of New York- program started by the Rockefellers. Murfreesboro/Rutherford County was 1 of 4 places selected for the Commonwealth Fund rural health projects in the US; building was initially segregated; initially dealt with pediatric health but then expanded once it was realized that general health in the county was poor; building was an outright gift to the people of Rutherford County by the Commonwealth Fund.
Princess Theater & Elrod's French Shoppe
This building was constructed as the new building for the Princess Theatre in 1914 following the destruction of the popular attraction’s original building. Then, in 1925, Cecil Elrod opened Cecil Elrod’s French Shoppe which remained open until 1977. Elrod’s French Shoppe became the first store in the area to install central air conditioning. In 1947, Elrod’s son opened the WGNS radio station on the second floor, which became the first radio station outside of Nashville’s metropolitan area.
City Cafe, Goldstein's, and the Polk Hotel
Murfreesboro’s oldest documented restaurant and a notable local landmark, City Cafe first opened its doors in 1900 under the ownership of Henry & Dorsey Cantrell at 11 S. Public Square. The establishment changed hands several times during the 20th century. It was moved to 107 E. Main in 1954 by Maurice & Pauline McKnight and again to its current location at 113 E. Main Street in 1992 by Garry & Pat Simpson. Recently, City Cafe plays a fascinating role in Murfreesboro and Rutherford County’s political culture. A central community table in the cafe serves as a forum for local political hopefuls and interested citizens. While fraught, City Cafe’s role in local politics is an additional element to the cafe’s history.A Jewish Russian immigrant, William Goldstein settled in Murfreesboro in the 1880s. He founded Goldstein’s, at this location on the corner of Church and Vine, around the turn of the 20th century, running the business with his wife Dora until 1930. Goldstein’s sons took over and continued to run the independent family-owned business until 1965. Goldstein’s closed its doors in 1982, but throughout the 20th century the Goldstein family owned or had a stake in several businesses around Middle Tennessee, played a prominent role in Murfreesboro social circles, and gained a generous charitable reputation.This site also contains two Murfreesboro stories: The Morgan-Ready Wedding, a Civil War marriage ceremony between a Confederate officer and the daughter of a prominent Murfreesboro family, and the James K. Polk Hotel, built on this lot in 1929. John H. Morgan and Martha Ready were married in December of 1862. Rumored guests of the wedding include Confederate President Jefferson Davis. Regardless of the guest list, the wedding was an exciting occasion that lifted the morale of Murfreesboro residents during the tumultuous war years. 67 years later, the Polk Hotel opened its doors. The segregated hotel advertised its “strictly modern” conveniences, including circulating ice water and ceiling fans. The Polk Hotel was torn down in February of 1977, to the dismay of many Murfreesboro residents who considered it a local landmark, clearing the way for the lot’s existing structure.
The Bottoms Community, African-American Businesses, and Urban Renewal
Following emancipation at the end of the Civil War, this part of town became a thriving African American community that included both neighborhoods as well as numerous businesses—many of which remained open until the mid-twentieth century. However, due to the passage of the National Housing Act of 1949 and plans for the city’s urban renewal that followed, this community was ultimately pushed out and displaced as many of the homes and businesses were razed in order to create space the Murfreesboro City Hall.While the positive effects of urban renewal and development are prominently visible around Murfreesboro’s public square, the history of the Bottoms community helps to remind us that urban renewal is not equally beneficial to everyone. In looking at the history of Murfreesboro’s growth in recent years, this history should be acknowledged.
Recent History and Main Street Murfreesboro
After urban renewal in the mid-20th century uprooted Murfreesboro’s downtown landscape, the square endured a period of stagnation. Disinvestment in the Square as Murfreesboro’s cultural anchor culminated in the destruction of the landmark Polk Hotel in 1977. In December of 1984, Murfreesboro was awarded a Main Street grant from the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Main Street Center, which began a revitalization movement centered around the city’s downtown. Murfreesboro’s Public Square revived and today, the Murfreesboro Public Square is the site of several successful Main Street Murfreesboro programs, including the Community Farmers Market, Taste of Rutherford, and Murfreesboro’s annual Jazz Fest. Local investment in the square and Murfreesboro’s downtown has filled the square with restaurants, nightlife, and unique events like Boro Fondo, a two-day arts and bicycle festival held every spring.
