Piccadilly Circus
Secrets of Piccadilly Circus"It's like Piccadilly Circus in here", has muttered many a person when things have got a bit hectic. But how much do they really know about the busy central London area, which around half a million people pass through each day?We bet you've been past the statue of Eros multiple times — perhaps you've even used it as a meeting point, or sat on the steps that surround it? We've got news for you: it's not actually Eros.The statue's official name is the Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain (although it's also known as The Angel of Christian Charity), and it was built in 1893 to commemorate philanthropist Lord Shaftesbury. It was intended to be the Greek god Anteros, but the bow in his hand put the public in mind of cupid, and it's therefore confused with the Greek god of love, Eros.The statue was removed for the duration on the second world war and replaced by hoardings to keep it safe, before being returned to Piccadilly Circus in 1948. It was also covered by an inflatable snow globe in Winter 2013-2014 to protect it from drunken festive revellers.Many a tourist has, no doubt, been disappointed to arrive at the world-famous Piccadilly Circus and not find a single circus act. In this context, Circus refers to the fact that it used to be a complete roundabout, or circle. When Shaftesbury Avenue was built in 1886, the junction ceased to be a complete circle, but the name stuck.Piccadilly Circus is named after the neighbouring shopping street Piccadilly, home to Fortnum & Mason among others. That in turn was named after Piccadilly Hall, a house belonging to a tailor who specialised in a type of collar known as a piccadill.Probably the most famous feature of Piccadilly Circus is its light-up advertising boards. The first sign to be illuminated was a Perrier advertisement in 1908, which used incandescent lightbulbs. Neon was first used for a Bovril sign in the 1940s. Every building in Piccadilly Circus used to have advertising signs, but now, those leased from the Crown Estate are forbidden to advertise.The lights were switched off for the duration of the second world war, only being relit in 1949. Other than that, the only times the lights have gone out were for Churchill's funeral, Princess Diana's funeral and WWF Earth Hour.
Jermyn Street
http://www.thelondonmagazine.co.uk/people-places/area-guides/iconic-street-jermyn-street.htmlIf you want to see what old fashioned British luxury really looks like, go to Jermyn Street. This historic thoroughfare, which runs between Piccadilly and Pall Mall, contains perhaps the most concentrated collection of old-school shops and restaurants anywhere in London.Its relative quiet, compared to the more famous streets around it, make it ideal for a stroll, soaking up the atmosphere of Regency London where dandies once shopped for the perfect cravat or headed to a louche gentleman’s club for an evening of insalubrious entertainments.Jermyn Street is protected by Westminster Council, which has pledged to preserve its famous menswear shops. But above street level and in its surrounding streets, glamorous new homes at record-breaking prices are being developed in an attempt to lure buyers over from Mayfair and Knightsbridge.At first glanceLong, slim and lined by shops with old-fashioned storefronts, Jermyn Street gives a glimpse of what London’s shopping streets must have been like before the international chainstores moved in. Sales pitches are subtle, interiors are generally panelled and cosy, and staff know their clients by name and collar size.“Jermyn Street has got a lot of charm and character,” says Charles Lloyd, a director at Savills. “It is quite traditional and the Crown Estate has invested in improving the street. There are still a lot of independent shops, you have also got some good restaurants and a beautiful church, St James’s, designed by Sir Christopher Wren.”Although Jermyn Street enjoys special planning protection there is always pressure on its independent traders. Franses, a consultancy and dealership specialising in tapestries, rugs, and textiles, is currently fighting plans for the expansion of the neighbouring Cavendish hotel which would see it removed from the street after more than a quarter of a century.Why iconic? The street is named for Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St Albans, who developed the area in around 1663. Jermyn was a somewhat scandalous figure rumoured to be inappropriately close to Henrietta Maria of France, the wife of King Charles I and mother of King Charles II.In its early days Jermyn Street was almost entirely residential – it has been home to Sir Isaac Newton, Sir Walter Scott and William Gladstone. But over time its houses started to be converted into shops dedicated to gentlemen’s apparel making it synonymous with British fashion and, of course, George Bryan “Beau” Brummell.Brummell was the classic middle-class suburban boy who dreamt of bigger things. During a stint in the 10th Royal Hussars he managed to befriend the Prince Regent (later King George IV).Brummell rapidly realised a military life was not for him and moved to Mayfair where he rented a house and reinvented himself as a man about town, confidant of the prince and style icon. He favoured elegantly cut full-length trousers and jackets, immaculate shirts, and cravats, and is thus credited with inventing the modern suit.
Paxton & Whitfield
In business for over 200 years, the last 100 of those on this site, Paxton & Whitfield sells a wide range of British and continental European cheeses, plus excellent hams, biscuits and real ale. Service is exemplary and delightfully unstuffy – a rare pleasure on Jermyn Street. Among the unusual English varieties to look out for are Oxford isis (washed in mead), caradon blue from Cornwall and naturally smoked ‘ceodre’ cheddar, and the shop now has an extended range of French cheeses, courtesy of Androuet, a traditional Parisian cheese shop. P&W is also known for its celebration ‘cheese cakes’ – contrasting tiers of artisan cheese rounds made to look like traditional wedding cakes. They also now serve sandwiches at lunchtime.
Floris London
This St James's perfumery has been stimulating Londoners' olfactory senses for more than 280 years. Founded by Juan and Elizabeth Famenias Floris in 1730, this Jermyn Street site is the Floris's original shop and is still operated by Floris decendents. With a vast heritage that includes customers from Florence Nightingale and Winston Churchill to Marilyn Monroe, the Florises created a special fragrance in 2010 called 280 to celebrate their 280 years of success. Smells good to us.
Fortnum & Mason
The results of F&M’s £24 million, two-year revamp (revealed in 2007 – 300 years after its opening in 1707) are stunning: the store retains all that was marvellous about its Georgian past while changing just enough to position itself as a 21st-century shopping experience.A sweeping spiral staircase soars through the four-storey building, while light floods down from a central glass dome. The iconic F&M eau de nil blue and gold colour scheme with flashes of rose pink abounds on both the store design and the packaging of the fabulous ground-floor treats, including chocolates, biscuits, teas and preserves.The first floor is for homewares: china- and glassware as well as finishing touches such as silver scoops for stilton, F&M coloured linen and cashmere hot water bottles; there are regular cooking sessions too.The second floor is home to beauty rooms, fashion accessories, jewellery and a perfumery, while the third floor has menswear, luggage and writing accessories, along with an excellent wrapping service.The five restaurants, all redesigned by David Collins (of Wolseley fame), are equally impressive, with the ice cream parlour a welcome addition. A new food hall in the basement has a huge range of fresh and dried produce, as well as top-notch wines from all over the world, meaning that Fortnum & Mason is no longer just a place for a picnic hamper, biscuits or an eye-catching jar of pickles.Hampers were invented as traveller’s baskets in the late 1730’s when Fortnum’s customers would embark on long journeys to their country homes via Piccadilly to collect their provisions for the journey. In their original iteration they held delicacies such as game pie, scotch eggs, cheese and rich fruit cake.At the end of the 18th century, the Romantic Movement encouraged the enjoyment of the English countryside and picnics and Fortnum’s began to provide delicacies that were fashionable for these events, encased in the traditional wicker baskets of course. Carriages queued along Piccadilly at 4am, to collect Fortnum’s picnic baskets before heading off to the Henley Regatta or the Epsom Derby.Did you know that the roof of Fortnum & Mason is a hub of activity, with a collection of beehives, salmon smoker and an allotment (the produce of which is used in the restaurants). This all comes together to help with the ‘Made in Piccadilly’ concept of the brand.Top 14 Fortnum & Mason souvenirs
Piccadilly Arcade
Connecting Piccadilly to Jermyn Street is the Piccadilly Arcade. A stones throw across the street from the arch of the Burlington Arcade, it’s a perfect conduit from Savile Row to the other famous row. Facing you as the stroll through is Beau Brummell, who a few times a year is kitted out in either tweed or blue jeans depending on what the occasion calls for.First up, on the north-east corner, is Santa Maria Novella. As I’m sure you’ve guessed by the name, they’re not a classic English brand by any means. They’re actually a centuries-old Italian apothecary, who make some very interesting products. In particular, there’s a traditional Italian liqueur called Alkermes that is unlike anything I’ve ever had. Then, as you walk down you’ll find the famed Budd shirtmaker, who no matter what anybody says is still alive and kicking. They’ll be closing for some renovations, but with the people at Huntsman supervising you can be sure the changes will be nothing but improvements. And finally New & Lingwood occupies both shops flanking the statue of the beau, over whose shoulder you can get a glimpse of Edward Green.
Burlington Arcade
Burlington Arcade, opened in 1819, is both the most famous and the most traditional of London's shopping arcades. But change is afoot. An ambitious and, according to its tenants, long overdue renovation programme is about to commence. A private offshore family trust (which remains anonymous) bought the arcade from Prudential in 2005 and handed the reins over to property manager The John Baker Group, which immediately sought to improve the space’s fortunes, employing retail agent CWM (credited with transforming Marylebone High Street from a staid haunt of wealthy ladies with miniature dogs into one of London’s most profitable and popular shopping streets) to work its magic. The aim is to attract a younger, hipper customer by challenging the myth that the arcades are stuffy, snooty and overpriced tourist magnets (in fact, 75 per cent of their trade is from Londoners).Thankfully, it won’t be a heavy-handed case of out with the old and in with the new. Heirlooms such as this are worth more money to London if they’re meticulously preserved, so English Heritage has been brought in as a consultant. Each shop is protected by the Realm as an antique and number 61 (part of the Mont Blanc shop) is designated an antique monument with no alterations permitted at all. In fact, by the end of the refurbishment programme next spring, the arcade will look more authentically nineteenth-century than it does now. Jeweller Sandra Cronan (number 18) is one of the many tenants who welcome the change and is a longtime fan of the arcade: ‘In my early teens I always walked along here and thought how wonderful it would be to have a shop here. What I remember is the exquisite detail – the moulding on the arches has since been whitewashed, but I remember it all in beautiful pastel shades of peach, cream and turquoise. I long for it to go back to how it was.’While the building itself will be returning to its grand old glory days, the atmosphere and merchandise will have to appeal to a broader range of customers. Nick Bond of leather goods shop Franchetti Bond says: ‘We have to make the arcade more accessible. The mutton chops have to go. It needs to be seen as somewhere less expensive, less intimidating and less olde-worlde.’ In fact, there is already plenty of great stuff to buy: traditional scents, exquisite antique jewellery, classic cashmere and tailored shirts – the problem is that people just don’t think to visit.Burlington Arcade was commissioned nearly 200 years ago by Lord George Cavendish who lived next door in Burlington House (now the Royal Academy). Fed up with local oiks dropping litter (mostly oyster shells) into his back garden, he came up with the idea of building a shopping arcade to block off access to his back wall, and commissioned his architect, Samuel Ware, to design one. Wanting to seem a philanthropic sort, Cavendish put his own spin on the planned arcade as being for the ‘gratification of the public and to give employment to industrious females’. In the event, most of the 47 original leaseholders and their families lived and worked in cramped conditions in the shops along with their stock. Of this 47, only six were ‘industrious females’, though archaic customs of the day meant the male corsetiers and milliners were also addressed as ‘madame’.Burlington still has its own set of rules and regulations, enforced by its own private police force, the smallest in the world. The Burlington beadles were originally recruited, when the arcade opened in 1819, from Cavendish’s family regiment, the Tenth Hussars, and sat recumbent and resplendent in their top hats and tails on special armchairs placed at each end of the arcade. Nowadays, just as smartly attired, they are more likely to be giving tourists directions or – as when I visited – mending small boys’ scooters. They still make sure the old rules are adhered to, in the politest and most diplomatic terms, of course. You’re still not allowed to run in the arcade – as head beadle Mark Lord puts it, ‘a gentlemen never hurries’. Singing, humming and playing an instrument are also banned, along with riding or even pushing a bicycle. An ‘unfurled’ umbrella is also outlawed. The more eccentric and anachronistic regulations still exist but the beadles let them go: it wouldn’t be good for business to exclude unaccompanied women, those with pushchairs or people carrying large parcels.
Savile Row
Smythson of Bond Street
Imagine Queen Victoria jotting a note to one of her trusted advisors on ornate stationary; or picture Katharine Hepburn adding one of her famous friends to her elegantly-engraved address book—the name embossed on both of these specialty items was none other than Smythson.Founded in 1887 by Frank Smythson, the path to this beloved luxury brand’s success is a long and illustrious one paved by ingenuity and a distinct attention to detail. For more than 125 years, Smythson of Bond Street has been carefully hand-crafting high-end leather goods and accessories as well as personalized stationary and diaries that have since found a following with British royalty, A-list celebrities, and lovers of bespoke products alike.On September 29, 1887, Smythson opened its doors at 133 New Bond Street, London selling customizable leather goods from stationary with 24-carat gold trim and hand-painted borders, to notebooks with hand-etched patterns and monograms. In 1908, they created the first featherweight diary that could be toted around, exposing the beautiful made-to-order items to an even larger audience.Through the years the brand has expanded its line to include everything from purses, to photo albums, cufflink cases, passport covers, wallets, manuscript books, key rings, jewelry boxes, travel bags, and iPad and iPhone covers. What began as a few pieces has grown into hundreds of products across a wide range of collections, with the sky being the only foreseeable limit on what they can conceive and customize for their discerning clientele.Although British royals, UK politicians and Prime Ministers are still loyal customers of Smythson of Bond Street (the Queen, Prince Charles and the Duke of Edinburgh all hold royal warrants), its appeal has reached around the globe to the likes of actress and Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly and New Zealand mountaineer and philanthropist Sir Edmund Hillary. Madonna, Rachel Weisz, Jessica Alba, Cat Deeley, and Victoria Beckham are also fans of their high-quality, time-honored pieces.Today, the Smythson of Bond flagship is located at 40 New Bond Street across from the original storefront. Inside is a small “museum” showcasing the brand’s rich history and famous followers, displaying such notable items as Sigmund Freud’s personal notebook and stationary made especially for the Maharajas of India during the 1920s.
Liberty of London
Ah, Liberty. Lovely Liberty. The eccentric aunt of the London department store scene. What she looks like on the outside pretty much reflects what she's like on the inside, all wooden beams and cosy corners — and a memorial on the stairs to staff who died during the second world war. While that's great for posterity (it really feels like visiting an old relative), it's not great for navigation — there's no central staircase or escalator, and a floor plan of the whole store wouldn't go amiss.Staff are happy to let you browse, but are knowledgable about their sections when help is needed. Products range from a 25p button to upwards of £2,000 for a rug, but the main focus is on Liberty print items. The famous design has been applied to everything from notebooks (£19.95) to hair scrunchies (£16!). The Tudor-style Liberty building also features heavily, and is splashed across everything from china moneyboxes to advent calendars.A combination of unobtrusive music, reasonable temperatures and a generally relaxed atmosphere make for a rather lovely browsing environment, which is quite a happy coincidence, as finding an exit — let alone the same one you entered by — is no mean feat.
