Aberlady Church
The 15th Century Tower The church we see today dates to about 1452 when the rubble-built square tower was built, conceivably as a watchtower originally. It comprises a series of floors connected from the first floor by a magnificent spiral stone staircase. The first floor boasts a vaulted ceiling, while the floor above was adapted as a dovecot when the original defensive arrow slits were used as flight windows. The upper floor of the tower is the present bell chamber. (See photos 1 & 2 in slider above)The 16th Century ChurchAround fifty years after the tower’s construction, a church was built onto its east face. A chancel was then added and, later, the Ballencrieff aisle to the north elevation. The Gosford aisle was added to the immediate west of the Ballencrieff aisle in the 17th century. This church, apparently long and low in design, was described as ‘a disgrace to the parish’ prior to its reconstruction in 1773.The 18th Century Church Both the Ballencrieff and Gosford aisles and the original tower were incorporated into this rebuild – known, because of its shape, as the ‘square kirk’. With its high gable, the roof of this new church was much higher than what we see today. (See photo 3 in slider above)A grave stone, formerly attached to a wall but now situated outside the south-east corner of the present church, survives from an earlier phase of building and perhaps the ‘square kirk’. (See photo 4 in slider above)The Present ChurchIn 1886, the ‘square kirk’, save the tower and the two aisles on the north elevation, was demolished to make way for the present church. The building work was commissioned by the 10th Earl of Wemyss and designed by London architect William Young, who also designed the Earl’s residence of nearby Gosford House. The new church opened for worship on 2 June 1887. (See photo 5 in slider above)The lower roof greatly enhances the proportions of the 15th century tower. New transepts built into the south elevation complement the 16th and 17th century Ballencrieff and Gosford aisles on the north elevation and create a church in cruciform shape. Externally, the four aisles are finished with thistle and cross finials, and the two easterly aisles with crow-stepped skews. Twin porches were added to the north and south sides of the tower and a vestry (no longer used as such) was added to the east of the chancel. (See photo 6 in slider above)Internally, the fine craftsmanship of the open timber roof, pointed arch arcades and crocketted capitals opening into aisles and transepts, completes the building design (See photos 7 & 8 in slider above). The chancel incorporates the large, and probably 18th century, window design. Its stain glass windows and those in the south aisles are by Edward Frampton of London. The most significant is the central window which was copied by Frampton from Sandro Botticelli’s painting of the ‘Virgin Adoring the Sleeping Christ’ (See photo 9 in slider above). The chancel windows are also notable for inclusion of the opening musical notes of Handel’s ‘Messiah’. The windows in the north aisle were designed by James Ballantine of Edinburgh (See photo 10 in slider above).Also in the chancel is a cast of a fragment of an 8th century Anglian cross shaft found in the wall of an adjoining manse garden in 1863. The original cross fragment is on display in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh (See photo 11 in slider above). The oldest of the two marble monuments within the church is a memorial, on the west wall, to Lady Elibank (d.1762) and attributed to the Italian sculptor Antonio Canova (See photo 12 in slider above). The second is an effigy of Louisa Bingham, Countess of Wemyss and March, and wife of the 9th Earl. Carved by John Rhind, it was exhibited in the Edinburgh Exhibition prior to being installed in the chancel in 1887 (See photo 13 in slider above). It was moved to its present position in the south aisle in 1960. Several other memorials dedicated to members of the Wemyss family, the Hopes of Luffness and former ministers of the church may also be seen within the church.The finely carved Communion Table and set of chairs were donated in memory of Mr. A. Stevenson of Luffness, a previous church Elder. The christening font and pulpit within the chancel are of Caen stone. The organ, within its Gothic case, sits in the north transept.The 2016 RestorationGiven that it has stood for over 500 years, it’s no surprise that the church tower was in need of restoration. Thanks to grants and donations, most notably from the Heritage Lottery Fund, a programme of remedial works was carried out in 2015-2016. During the work, nearly 600 square metres of the stonework were re-pointed and 224 stones eroded by wind rain were skillfully removed and replaced. In addition, the entire roof was lined with weatherproofing and 516 square metres of slate were replaced. Topping it all, an impressive new weather vane, gifted through generous private donations and resplendent in black and gold above the tower, completed the restoration project. We hope that the church will continue to be enjoyed for many years. Click here to see panel 1 (See photos 14, 15 & 16 in slider above).
St Mary’s Chapel
St Mary’s ChapelA pre-Reformation chapel dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary - St Mary’s Chapel – is said to have existed in the church grounds when the 15th century church tower was built. It is thought to have stood in the north-west corner of the old churchyard on the site of the present Luffness burial ground. (See photo 17 in slider above). Unfortunately, the early chapel site has never been properly assessed. Around 1927 several stone coffins, including one made of solid stone and chiselled to the shape of a body and head, were found approximately thirty metres west of the chapel site.
Heritage Information Point
In the car park to the northwest of the church and overlooking Aberlady Bay, our links golf courses of Craigielaw, Kilspindie, Luffness and Gullane, and the Church Glebe, may be seen a series of five information panels interpreting Aberlady’s early heritage. (See photo 18 in slider above). The village has been a site of continuous occupation since earliest times.Iron Age FortAlong the Kilspindie coast to the north-west stood an extensive Iron Age fort and, immediately beneath, lies the first putative souterrain, or underground storage area, to be discovered in this part of Scotland. The ‘cave’ has more recent associations with smuggling. (See panel 6)The Port of HaddingtonLying hidden within the silt due east of Kilspindie Point are the remains of Aberlady’s 16th century oak and sandstone harbour quay. Its construction was commissioned by the merchants of Haddington in 1535 followed, one year later, by the commissioning of the ‘Town of Haddington’s House’ or the Customs House. (See photo 19 in slider above). Notices of Port Dues published in 1769 and 1831 include anchorage fees payable for vessels of 300 tonnes. At its height, Aberlady was a thriving market town and the Port of Haddington. (See panel 7)Fishing VesselsImmediately south-east of the harbour site may be seen the skeletal remains of a number of 19th century fishing vessels which would habitually over-winter in the sheltered bay. The remains are nationally important as a rare survival of the types of craft which were once the lifeblood of Scotland's fishing industry and which once numbered thousands. These vessels represent the final development form of the sailing fishing boat and are a 'time capsule' of late 19th-century marine engineering. (See photo 20 in slider above)Britain’s First Local Nature ReserveNow silted as a consequence of sandbars steadily extending across its mouth, Aberlady Bay was declared Britain’s first Local Nature Reserve in 1952. The trading and fishing vessels of yesteryear are replaced by many thousands of migratory birds stopping to feed and rest in the rich salt marsh during their long journeys. Please respect the fragility of the Nature Reserve and keep to the sign-posted paths. No dogs are permitted.Our Anglo-Saxon HeritageImmediately to the north of the church lies the Glebe field. In the early 1990s a large number of metal finds, including a quantity of 8th-9th century Anglo-Saxon coins and decorated mounts, strap ends and pinheads, was recovered was from this field. Together they represent the largest concentration of Anglo-Saxon stray finds yet discovered in Scotland. In 2016, a community archaeology project to explore Aberlady’s Anglo-Saxon past uncovered extensive stone structures overlying evidence of earlier timber ones. Radiocarbon analysis of in-situ animal bones and bone combs dates the structures to the 7th to 9th centuries, firmly within the Anglo-Saxon period.While the activities that took place here during the Early Medieval period are not yet clear, the current evidence – including place-names, finds from the site and the elaborately carved Anglian cross, which once stood nearby the present church - suggest a settlement of some status, of trading and commerce, and quite likely monastic and the early church of Pefferham within the Lindisfarne diocese, though this has yet to be confirmed. Historians consider it quite likely that St Aidan, the 7th century Ionan monk invited by King Oswald to establish a monastery of the Celtic church in Northumbria would have travelled via Aberlady. Traffic between the two monastic powerhouses endured over time with Aberlady an important place for travellers to rest and pray.Click here to see Panel 5
18th Century Mounting Point
Loupin - on - Stane, AberladyJust to the west of the entrance gates to the church may be seen a set of stone steps. (See photo 21 in slider above) This platform is one of the best examples in Scotland of a Victorian `Loupin' on Stane' once used by church-goers when arriving and departing by horse or carriage.
Memorial Garden
There are three monuments within the village Memorial Garden: the Memorial Stone, the Aberlady Cross reconstruction and a 16th century Venetian Well memorial to a Countess of Wemyss. (see photo 22 in slider above)The War MemorialThe War Memorial in honour of the six local young men who lost their lives in the Boer War was funded by public subscription from across the parish in 1903. To ensure their sacrifice would not be forgotten, and in common with War Memorials elsewhere, it was first sited at a very public and prominent position; the road junction almost opposite the churchyard gates. The Memorial bears the names and regiments of those who fell in the service of their country. Later, the names of the young men from the parish who died during the First World War were also carved into the stone. In 1919 the War Memorial was moved to a Memorial Garden between the bowling green and the church and bequeathed to Aberlady Parish Council by the Earl of Wemyss. Lady Wemyss, who had lost two sons in the war, dedicated the Memorial on All Saints Day that year. The names of yet more young men were added to the Memorial following their sacrifices in the Second World War. We shall remember them. (See photo 23 in slider above)The War Memorial 19528th century Aberlady CrossIn 1863, a fragment of an early Christian cross was found in the garden wall of the former manse adjacent to Aberlady kirkyard. Recent research has highlighted its importance to our understanding, not only the origins and early history of Aberlady, but of the evolution of early Christianity in these islands. (see photo 27 in slider above)A full-scale interpretation of how the original five metre cross might have looked was erected by the local community in the village Memorial Garden (to the immediate west of our kirkyard) in 2011. It was carved using the same basic tools that the original craftsmen would have employed. You have to imagine it painted in vivid blues, golds, greens and reds. Reflected light from amber and blue glass inserted into the eye sockets of the interlaced birds and animals would have added to the overall spectacle. (see photo 25)The carved designs bear a strikingly close relationship with the illuminated artwork that characterises the Lindisfarne Gospels, one of Britain’s greatest treasures. In this magnificent book, made in c.720 AD by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, native Celtic elements blend with Anglo-Saxon and Eastern traditions. The result is a unified artistic vision of the cultural melting pot of the kingdom of Northumbria at this time and of which Aberlady was then part. The existence of this beautifully carved cross here suggests the settlement was of some significance. Place name evidence suggests that Aberlady was on one of the main routes taken by monks when they first travelled from Iona to Northumbria to establish the monastery of the Celtic church on Holy Island. See panel 1 and panel 2Venetian Well MemorialThe 16th century Venetian Well is a memorial to the Countess of Wemyss who dedicated the War Memorial in 1919.(see photo 26 in slider above)
Market Cross
The Market Cross is located on the north side of the main street running through the village. It dates from the 18th century, although the shaft is recorded as being a more modern replacement and the finial, which would have topped the monument, is missing. We can only guess at its design. (see photo 28 in slider above) It was at this cross that the local population of weavers, craftsmen and traders would gather to hear announcements and around which regular markets would have been held.The cross itself consists of a square shaft measuring approximately 1.8m high by 0.25m square in section. The shaft incorporates two metal bands which partially span an area of previous fracturing. This shaft is supported by a large plinth stone measuring approximately 0.56m in height and 0.68m square. Below the plinth stone are four stepped courses of stonework, the outermost of which measures 2.9m by 2.3m. It’s unclear whether the lowest course of steps on the north and south sides were removed at some stage or whether it was built to this design. The entire cross is carved from local sandstone and the shaft and plinth are both laid vertical to their grain. Iron cramps have been used on the upper course of the steps to secure the stones and there may be others on the lower courses concealed by the stones above.In 2005, Aberlady Conservation and History Society arranged for the cross steps to be repointed with lime mortar incorporating oyster shells and other pinnings. A survey of the cross by Historic Environment Scotland in July 2013 found it to be in remarkably good condition.
Luffness Friary
Luffness Carmelite FriaryLying within the woodland of Luffness estate to the east of the village, are the ruins of a 13th century Carmelite friary. The friary at Luffness is first mentioned in 1335-6 but a recess containing an effigy of a knight in late 13th century armour suggests an earlier date of construction. Oral tradition links the effigy to Sir David de Lindsay, a crusading knight. The legend has it that this knight, mortally wounded in combat, offered a Carmelite monk land at Luffness to establish a friary if would ensure the safe return of his body to Luffness. (see photo 29 in slider above)The foundations of the friary are quite visible but the associated buildings have almost entirely disappeared. The walls of the friary measure 31 metres by 8 metres with a height of average 0.7 metres, except at the east end on the north side, where the wall is 1.7 meters high. About 100 metres north-east of the church are the remains of associated two fishponds, though now waterlogged hollows overgrown with rank grass. There are no references to the friary beyond 1512.If visiting the friary please respect the privacy of Luffness House and keep to the access path from the east end of the village. Dogs must be kept on leads.
