Greenock Southwards Preview

STOP 1 WYLLIEUM

Hello and welcome to this heritage walk through the leafy West End of Greenock! My name’s Vincent Gillen, and I’ll be your guide today. I’ve lived here all my life and spent many years exploring and sharing the rich social history of this wonderful town.

On our walk, we’ll be heading south, through the town centre, and into a part of Greenock that’s full of beautiful 19th-century architecture. Along the way, I’ll share stories of the fascinating people who once lived here: ship captains, sugar refiners, and Newfoundland fishing merchants, among others, who helped shape the character and charm of this historic area.

Greenock was a town that grew from the heart outward, right around the bustling Cathcart Square. Picture it: the clang of shipyards, the hum of factories, and people from near and far arriving in search of work in the booming industries of the West of Scotland. Greenock soon became a lively patchwork of cultures and stories — though life wasn’t always easy, with crowded housing and tough living conditions.

To meet the growing demand, the town’s wealthier residents turned to the local landowners, the Shaw Stewarts of Ardgowan, for permission to build on the open fields of Finnart, west of the town centre — laying the foundations for one of Greenock’s most elegant areas today, taking its cue from the New Town of Edinburgh and its grid plan.

Don’t worry about rushing! If you need a moment to catch up, soak in the view, or simply reach our next spot, just pause. The audio will automatically start when you get to the next location, or play after the one you are listening to. This is your tour, after all! Get ready to close your eyes (not while walking, of course!) and truly picture this town as it once was.

We’ll begin our walk up to the junction, and cross at the crossing, walking straight through the supermarket to Dalrymple Street. Cross again and veering to the right towards Westburn Street.

STOP 2 WESTBURN STREET

The old West burn ran down this street, forming the western limits to the old town. You may notice as you progress, that the area sits in a hollow. Many of the towns first industries were centred round the burn – coopers, fish processors, skinners and the like. The early fishing boats would come up the burn. Today the watercourse runs in culverts under the road. The burn flows into the Clyde down beside the Wyllieum Arts Centre and Terminal. This area is now a centre of retail and residential.

The entrance to the Oak Mall was where an old church stood – Martyrs & North. During WW2 their hall was used by the Free French forces as their social club. DeGaulle came here on a couple of occasions.

Westburn Street was where the novelist and social commentator John Galt lived his last days out. He is known also for founding the Canadian city of Guelph. There is a plaque on the wall on the right here.

On the other side of the street was where the first sugar refinery in town was situated. This was on Sugarhouse Lane, using the water from the West burn.

Cross over West Blackhall Street. Further up on the right, where Iceland supermarket is, was the old Gaelic Church. I realise that you are having to use your imagination a lot here, but being in the centre of town, buildings and streets are often subject to changes over time.

Walk to the top of the street and go through the underpass. Turn left. We will be heading across Kilblain Street and on to Inverkip Street and walking the length of the street Cross through the bus station and keep left.

STOP 3 INVERKIP STREET

Today there is a supermarket to your right and houses to your left. The supermarket sits on the site of Walkers Sugar refinery which closed in the 1990s but had been on this site since mid 19th century.

Now, if you think housing in Greenock has ever been simple — it hasn’t. In fact, the town’s health problems were rooted in its housing from the very beginning.

Early Greenock grew in a wonderfully chaotic fashion: houses, lanes, and streets thrown down wherever a superior felt like putting them, with about as much planning as a dropped box of matches. As seafaring expanded, people packed factories, stores, and homes right up against the quay. And whenever a surge of workers arrived, there simply weren’t enough places for them to live — not that the town seemed particularly bothered.

Sanitary rules existed, but only in the sense that someone had once written them down and then left them in a drawer. Before the Reform Bill, very little in Greenock’s local government had anything to do with improving everyday life. And even after it, progress was… let’s say leisurely.

By the early 1800s, when Greenock still had fewer than 18,000 people but was growing fast, many poor families were living not in houses at all, but in barns and outhouses. It was hardly the healthiest start for a busy port town.

On your left, where the houses are, was the Greenock Brewery and also some of the poorest living quarters in the town. Perhaps fittingly the Greenock Infirmary was built here in 1808. All now swept away. Dr Laurie gave the following description:

I have a district, as a deacon, in one of the parishes, and the hovels (one cannot call them houses) inhabited by some of the paupers in this district, are such abodes of wretchedness that few could imagine that such places were to be found in a Christian community. There is one poor man who was under my care in the hospital with asthma for six months, he was dismissed as incurable, and is now living with his wife and seven children in a dark room on the ground -floor, more fit for a coal-cellar than a human being ; it is lighted by a fixed window about two feet square ; the breadth of the room is only four feet, and the length eight. There is only one bed for the whole family. Still these houses are in such request, that at last term one of the paupers living in a similar place was out-bid as to the rent by another person. He could get no other house, and for a week he slept with his wife and three children in his pigsty : he had ultimately to seek a house in a neighbouring village. There are few of these houses drained, as there are no public drains in any of the streets, excepting one or two in the principal street of the town, and these do not occupy half its length

Walk further up the street.

STOP 4 INVERKIP GRAVEYARD

Continuing on up Inverkip Street we come to Inverkip Street Graveyard on the left, which opened in 1787, far enough from the town centre to avoid causing a nuisance. Many of Greenock’s early merchants are buried here, including the novelist and social commentator John Galt and members of his family.

This cemetery was not always peaceful. In 1846, it was reported that coffin contents were spilling onto the ground, as bodies — including recent victims of cholera — had been buried just inches below the surface.

That same year, another incident caused a stir: a dispute over burial fees led to a mob forcibly opening graves without authorization. The local authorities tried to intervene, but the crowd, led by a few instigators, overpowered them. Coffins were carried to graves amid shouts and chaos, and while most participants were unaware of the reason for the quarrel, the events highlighted the tensions and challenges surrounding civic management and public health in 19th-century Greenock

STOP 5 WEST STATION & ORANGEFIELD

We are now approaching Greenock West Station, which opened in 1899 as part of the Caledonian Railway extension to Gourock, connecting the town more directly with the surrounding area.

A letter from 1889 went:

It appears that the Caledonian Railway Company have christened the neat little ststationary the junction of Inverkip and Newton Streets the Greenock West Station. This is clearly a misnomer, and a misleading one too. Inverkip Street is not in the West-end of the town. The name Greenock West will—in view of the existence of a station near Fort Matilda—lead to the confusion not only to strangers but also residents. It may be suggested the Company that the station ought be officially called what it really is—lnverkip Street Station

To your left is the area known as Orangefield. One of Greenock’s early historians, George Williamson, lived here; he served as Procurator Fiscal and was deeply involved in the civic life of the town.

James Johnston, Williamsons grandson, recalls “It was at the gate at Orangefield. Two small boys, James Little & myself saw a man say goodbye affectionately to two old cronies, my grandfather and grandmother. His language interspersed with many oaths, which shocked us horribly. The man was Colin MacIvor, alias Colin Campbell, then Sir Colin, afterwards Lord Clyde. His letters after every fight sent home.

My sister was an invalid, and Sir Colin sat beside her telling her lies and shocking her & others with his oaths. My sister was well read and wanted to know how a parade was staged. Sir Colin told her that on coming on to Parade, the first thing he said to his officers was ‘Damn gloves off’. My sister declined to hear any more of his lies. ‘Well my lass, I will come back to dance a reel with you and tell you some truthful ones; meantime I am leaving you with you my bone walking stick against my wishes. He never came back being sent to the East for many years. I tell you this story as at the first meeting with King Leopold & waiting till the introducing officer had retired & the door was well closed, he said ‘Take off your gloves’. The Court is obliged to encourage etiquette as I am both a prince and grandson of a French King but Englishmen do not do business with gloves on. I obeyed.

As we pass, notice the Catholic Church of St. Patrick, built in 1935 to the design of the renowned architectural firm Gillespie, Kidd & Coia, with its striking modernist lines, which provides a sharp contrast to the Victorian and Georgian architecture we will be walking past. The church was built where Williamsons house was located.

From here, we’ll circle around the right corner onto Nelson Street, making our way toward the west end, closing the loop through Greenock’s rich layers of history — from shipowners and merchants to schools, churches, and community spaces that continue to shape the town today.

STOP 6 BRACHELSTON SQUARE

The roundabout is on Brachelston Square. Just across the road, you’ll see the entrance gates to Greenock Cemetery — a beautifully designed garden cemetery, opened in 1846. It was designed by Stewart Murray, the Curator at the botanical gardens in Glasgow, who also designed the Glasgow Necropolis.

Originally, it was going to be called the Greenock Necropolis, but this was considered unchristian by the Shaw Stewarts, who owned the land. At the time, it was intended not only as a place of remembrance but also as a space for leisure and reflection, encouraging carriage rides and peaceful walks beneath its tree-lined avenues. If you have time, it’s well worth a visit — a tranquil green space filled with stories of the town’s past.

Shall we take a walk along Nelson Street? In the 19th century, this was the old road into the countryside, leading toward Inverkip, with farms and open fields stretching beyond the town’s edge. Continuing along Nelson Street, you’ll pass the Greenock Sports Centre, which was once the home of the volunteer artillery, and then a stretch of handsome tenements before crossing Newton Street.

STOP 7 NELSON STREET WEST

A little further along, the large modern complex you see to your left is West College Scotland, though many locals still fondly call it James Watt College. It was opened in 1973, built on the site of the old Greenock Academy, which had stood here since 1855. The Academy began as a fee-paying school offering both primary and secondary education. For nearly a century, it was a centre of learning for the town’s youth before being demolished, with the school moving to Madeira Street in Greenock’s West End — itself built on the grounds of the old Balclutha mansion.

As we pass Nicolson Street, on the west side of the street, stand the offices of the Children’s Panel and Ardgowan Medical Practice. You might notice a slight mismatch between the buildings and the boundary wall — this was once Ardgowan Primary School, which opened in 1898. Its sturdy red sandstone façade and decorative details still speak of its late Victorian origins.

Across the street, you’ll see Ardgowan Hospice, but this building has a much longer story. It was originally the Greenock Eye Infirmary, opened in 1893 and funded by Anderson Rodger, the Port Glasgow shipbuilder. For decades, it cared for patients with eye conditions and workers injured in shipyards, a reminder of Greenock’s long tradition of community-minded philanthropy.

Its first ophthalmic surgeon was Dr. N. Gordon Cluckie, the leading eye expert in the West of Scotland. It was this expertise that inspired the Ferguson Eye Bequest to be set up in 1880 — Ferguson being a sugar refiner.

During his early years in Greenock, Dr. Cluckie devoted considerable attention to municipal affairs, serving as Magistrate, Burgh Treasurer, and Convener of the Committee on Public Health. His son would also hold these positions.

STOP 8 NELSON STREET EAST

Next, on east side, we come to what was once the West Kirk. It opened in 1841 as a simple, square-shaped church, but in 1854 a handsome steeple was added, featuring Ionic and Corinthian columns. Two years later, in 1856, Frances Ann Wood, sister of Sir Gabriel Wood, donated the church clock. It became known as “McCulloch’s Clock”, in honour of the minister at the time, Rev. Dr. James Melville McCulloch.

Today, the building is known as Westburn Church, a Grade A listed landmark that continues to serve the community. The elegant clock that has kept time over Nelson Street for more than 150 years, is currently missing its faces, due to damage done in 2018.

Our next landmark here is the Sheriff Court building, standing on the site of Old Kilblain House, once belonging to Robert Baine. The Greenock Sheriff Court, designed by Peddie and Kinnear in the Scottish Baronial style, opened in November 1869.

It replaced earlier court facilities — hearings were once held in Paisley, and later in a temporary courthouse on Bank Street built in 1834. The Nelson Street courthouse was a major step forward for the town’s civic life, originally housing not only the courtrooms but also the local jail, which remained in use until 1910, when a new prison was built.

Next to the courthouse is a tenement building where my mother and her family once lived on the ground floor flat at the corner, looking onto West Shaw Street. She used to tell stories of how she and her brothers got into trouble for pinching sugar from the back of Walker’s lorries — a small act of mischief in the shadow of the great sugar refineries. She was born here, right in the heart of the area we’re walking through today.

Crossing West Shaw Street this building originally housed the United Presbyterian Church, built in 1846. In 1880, it was destroyed by fire but soon rebuilt and reopened by Robert McSymon as St. George’s Hall, used for public meetings, choir recitals, and community events. Over the years, it’s been a cinema, a canteen during the Second World War, a social club, and now private flats.

Next on the east side of the square stands the old St. George’s North Church, originally built as the Middle Free Church in 1870–71, designed by Salmon, Son & Ritchie. It later became the Middle United Free Church after the 1900 union of the Free and United Presbyterian Churches, and then St. George’s Church in 1929 when the United Free Church joined the Church of Scotland. In 1983, the congregation united again with Martyrs’ North Church, forming St. George’s North Church. A final union with St. Luke’s in 2007 brought the story full circle, and the building was sold and converted into a warehouse.

STOP 9 GEORGE SQUARE.

George Square marked the beginning of Greenock’s gradual move outward from the busy town centre. The land here was originally feued from the Shaw Stewart estate, this area developed as an early western suburban retreat — comfortable houses set in what was then a rural landscape. Originally this area was named Kilblain, after the location of a chapel dedicated to St Blane, with a windmill situated close by. In 1685 it was the location of a skirmish between government troops and those belonging to Duke of Monmouth and the Earl of Argyll in 1699

By the mid-19th century, George Square had become a hub of religious life, with five different churches located here at one time. In 19th-century Scotland, theological disagreements often led to new congregations, and inevitably, to new church buildings.

Cross the street to the side where the old Baptist Church was, now a dance studio

Here stood the Old George Square Baptist Church, founded in 1884 by members of the Nelson Street Church. A new building was completed in 1888, designed by James Sellars in an ornate Baroque style. The congregation later united with Orangefield Church in 2008, after which the building was sold and eventually converted into a dance studio — a lively new use for a building that once rang with hymns.

ANDERSONS

Those tenements next along were later built on the site of houses once owned by the Anderson family, among the most notable in the west of Scotland.

Andrew Anderson (1735–1821) was one of Greenock’s most successful and influential figures. He has been referred to as Anderson of Kilblain. He was in partnership with Archibald Campbell of Finlayson, who made a vast fortune in the West Indies. Anderson himself owned the Hermitage Plantation there. After the abolition of slavery, his son received nearly £2,000 in compensation from the Slave Compensation Board — a stark reminder of how deeply Greenock’s early wealth was tied to colonial trade.

Anderson & Campbell were also partners with Caird, engineers and shipbuilders, linking them further into Greenock’s powerful merchant and shipbuilding networks.

One of the family went on to found what became Strathclyde University.

GABRIEL WOOD

Next door, in the detached house, lived Gabriel Wood, father of Sir Gabriel Wood, who became a Commissary General in the Civil Service, serving across the Caribbean, Mediterranean, and Canada. After his death, his estate funded the founding of the Mariners’ Home on Newark Street, one of Greenock’s most distinguished charitable institutions.

THE HAMLINS

The house beside the old church once belonged to Captain Thomas Hamlin, a ship’s captain and owner of temperance ships. The Hamlins were well-respected in civic life — Thomas served on committees of the Infirmary and Harbour Trust, was Treasurer of the London Missionary Society in Greenock, and President of the Greenock Shipowners’ Association.

Captain Hamlin donated land for the Congregational Church on the north-west corner of George Square. One of the early ministers, Rev. Alexander Campbell, died in 1844 and was buried in front of the church. A plaque still marks his resting place.

A story in the diary of General Simon Fraser, Royal Marines, around 1843 recounts:

“A very fine merchant ship with valuable cargo, commanded by Captain Hamlin, was totally lost close to the landing place. The Captain had been there before, so nothing but foolhardiness or gross carelessness could have made him take his ship inside the danger buoy… The Captain, seeing the ship was lost, formally handed her and the cargo over to the Commandant of the Island. To save the cargo, every spare man was set to work from daylight until dark, and fortunately, the entire shipment was safely landed — only one bag of coffee got a dip in the sea. Captain Hamlin and his crew were given shelter in a tent on the beach.”

Cross at the crossing

The modern flats on the south side of the square now occupy the site of the former Union Church, originally the United Secession Church, built in 1834.

WALKERS

The Walker family, who owned No. 9 on the west corner, first came to Greenock in the late 18th century, working as bakers. In 1831, William Walker opened the Grain Mills at the Shaws Water Falls, with his father’s bakery just behind it.

In 1838, John Walker founded John Walker & Company, shipowners, with his brothers holding shares. Their partners included Captain John Shaw and James Speirs. John Shaw later married Margaret Walker, linking the two families.

These same entrepreneurs went on to establish a sugar refining business in 1849, on a site at Nicholson Street/Westburn, only a few hundred yards east of here. Known as Walkers Refinery, it remained a local landmark for more than a century before being acquired by Tate & Lyle.

Duncan Shaw, a nephew of Hugh, John, and William Walker, married Christina Campbell. To celebrate, the refinery was spectacularly illuminated with gas jets spelling out their initials, followed by a fireworks display for the workers — a fine example of Victorian celebration and employer pride.

By 1891, Duncan Shaw was living in Tunbridge Wells, and by 1901, at Redholm, Wemyss Bay. Newspapers reported that when he died in 1926, he had left £4,000 to the McLean Museum. Remarkably, he was said to be “the last surviving British citizen who had the honour of shaking hands with President Lincoln,” having met him in Washington, D.C., when only 22, while the Confederate Army was nearby.

Next, we can continue along Union Street, explore the Watt Library, St John’s Episcopal Church, and then move toward Ardgowan Square and its remarkable early residents.

STOP 10 UNION STREET

Before it was properly laid out, this road was simply known as “the High Road to Gourock”, and according to historian George Blair, it once led “through fields of waving grain.” By the mid-19th century, handsome Victorian villas lined this street, largely home to merchants, doctors, and ship captains — very much the story of Greenock’s West End.

On the left, you’ll soon spot the Watt Library, a true gem of the town.

The Watt Library was built in 1837. By 1842, only the central section was complete; the two wings were added later, around 1849. The first librarian was James Black, serving from 1839 to 1843, followed by his wife Mrs. Ellen Black, who continued until 1868.

A letter published in 1849 in the Greenock Advertiser offers a fascinating glimpse into the early life of the library. The writer, signing as J. R., corrected the record regarding the catalogue:

“You state that the catalogue of the Library was made in 1826 under the superintendence of Mr John Dunn. Yet it was the late Samuel Gemmill, Esq., to whom the public is truly indebted, for it was he who bore the principal burden of that work. Again, you attribute the catalogue of 1844 to the late Mr Alexander Patten, but in fact it was the present Librarian, Mrs Black, who carried out the labour — not only revising and supplementing the catalogue, but even preparing a brand-new one for the Mathematical Library, where none had existed before. I mean no disrespect to Messrs Dunn or Patten, but fairness demands that due credit be given to Mr Gemmill and Mrs Black, whose efforts were both severe and disinterested, and duly acknowledged by the committee at the time.”

It’s a lovely reminder that behind the elegant façade of the Watt Library stood generations of dedicated local scholars and librarians — people whose quiet commitment preserved Greenock’s knowledge and history for us to enjoy today.

Across the street, you’ll see St John’s Episcopal Church. Founded in 1824, the current Gothic Revival building was consecrated in 1878 after replacing the original. Designed by Paley and Austin, it is their only Scottish church and features a unique rood screen carved with animals, an ornate reredos, and fine stained glass. Notable additions include stalls designed by the firm in 1890 and a vestry around 1897.

A little-known fact: one of the ministers here, George Mostyn, was the father of Captain William Mostyn, who died fighting the Zulus at Isandlwana.

Just around the corner on Kelly Street is the McLean Museum, housed in a striking Victorian building that dates back to 1876.

STOP 11 MCLEAN MUSEUM

The origins of the McLean Museum and Art Gallery actually began even earlier, in 1816, when the Greenock Philosophical Society started collecting “curiosities” in the local library!

The museum you see today was made possible by the generosity of local timber merchant James McLean, who funded this purpose-built space.

Inside, you’ll discover a fascinating journey through local and world history. Highlights include original tools and plans from the great inventor James Watt, beautiful artworks by the Scottish Colourists, and even an ancient Egyptian mummy cartonnage, sourced through donations from the Egypt Exploration Society that continued until 1914.

It’s a true local treasure, telling the story of Greenock’s industries like shipbuilding and sugar refining, and it’s completely free to enter. Step inside and eJust around the corner on Kelly Street is the McLean Museum, housed in a striking Victorian building that dates back to 1876.xplore the history of Inverclyde and beyond!

STOP 12 ARDGOWAN SQUARE

Walking on, we arrive at Ardgowan Square — one of Greenock’s most prestigious addresses. In its day, this was the place to live, home to many of the town’s most prominent and influential citizens. We’ll be turning left here.

Over the years, the houses in the square have been numbered in several different ways, which has caused a bit of confusion when tracing who lived where — so while I’ve done my best to get the details right, there might be a few small mysteries left to solve!

At the corner of Union Street and Ardgowan Square, you would have found the home of Hugh Thomson, a surgeon of note. His father, Thomas Thomson, was a shipmaster who died in 1833, and his mother, Mrs. Martha Thomson, remained in the lower part of the building as of 1849. Hugh studied medicine in Paris, continued his career in Glasgow, married Georgiana Houston of Orkney in 1853, and died in 1896 in Glasgow.

Before leaving Greenock, his fellow physicians presented him with a heartfelt tribute, praising his integrity, fairness, and zeal for his art — a touching reminder of the professional and personal respect he earned.

STOP 13 EAST SIDE

Next comes the impressive former Greenock Club, built in 1880 as a private members’ club. Designed by Boucher & Cousland, who also designed several villas along Newark Street, its elegant proportions and rich detailing make it one of the architectural highlights of the square. In recent years, it has been a private school.

The next two houses you’ll see are among the original properties built on the square, giving us a glimpse of how Ardgowan Square first looked.

At No. 5 Ardgowan Square lived Alex Harvie, shipowner and merchant. Born in 1775 to Edward Harvie, also a shipmaster, Alex continued the family’s maritime tradition. He died in 1846 and is buried in Irvine.

Number 7 has had a few notable inhabitants over the years including Dr John K Robertson. His son was a China Missionary who worked there with the Lawsons, who introduced Gladys Aylward to their mission. She was the subject of the film Inn of the Sixth Happiness. This letter appeared in the local paper

THE CHINESE UPHEAVAL. Dr John K. Robertson, of Ardgowan Square, Greenock, has just received reassuring word from his son, Rev. Daniel T. Robertson, of the United Presbyterian Mission in Manchuria. Mr Robertson was stationed at Ashiho, and when the trouble began the missionaries were given only two hours to leave the district. In long and interesting diary, dated 11th July, and begun at small station called Kuo Kirk, Corean Cap, Mr Robertson tells how made his way from Ashiho to Harbin, in company with Dr Muir and Mrs Muir (a Greenock lady, daughter of Mr Gilchrist, ‘tailor), The company, which included 500 refugees, was conveyed by steel barges to Vladivostock, from which port they took ship to Japan. On the journey to Vladivostock, the missionaries came a good deal into contact with both Chinese and Russians, and had not a few exciting experiences. With their Russian fellow passengers especially the British were on good terms, and passed the time with concerts and games. Writing his parents on 23rd July on board ship. Mr Robertson stated that he expected to land in Japan the following day. He said that country was so full of refugees that he did not know where and his friends could be accommodated.

Take a moment to notice the tenements on the corner. It has three separate entrances, yet at one time it was all listed under a single address: No. 11. This is confusing. Over the years, it was home to a wonderfully varied mix of residents, including piano teachers, doctors, harbour masters, and single ladies — a perfect snapshot of Greenock’s changing society.

STOP 14 SOUTH SIDE

On the south-east corner, No. 25 has long been home to the Ardgowan Square Evangelical Church, though the building was originally commissioned as the Ardgowan United Free Church in 1937. Before the church was built, the site was occupied by one of the first houses in the Square, constructed around 1833 for Captain John Leitch. The Leitch family lived there for three generations. John Leitch, merchant and shipowner, was born in 1836, the son of John McNeil Leitch of Rothesay (born 1800) Eoin Leitch, was killed in the First World War.

Originally, there were just three houses along this stretch of the south side of the square.

At the centre of this row lived William Laughton, born in London in 1812. His father, Captain Laughton, from an Orkney family, commanded a ship trading between England and the West Indies. He died of yellow fever in 1813 — remembered as “a good man and a good sailor, not without adventures in those war times.” William Laughton was a minister in the Free Church, becoming moderator in 1881. He served in Greenock from 1839 till 1886 and lived here with his sister.

Also here Duncan A Campbell, who was a partner in the Greenock Distillery. He had owned Langhouse in Inverkip, before selling it to William McFie. He later married Margaret McFie. Both families had significant interests in the sugar trade. Campbell Street is named after him. He was a founder member of the bowling club as well as Greenock Academy.

The last, on the south-west corner of the square at Robertson Street, was the home of Donald MacDonald, senior partner in the sugar brokerage firm MacDonald & Hutcheson. Listed as a retired merchant by 1859, he also served as a Justice of the Peace and was renowned as an art collector. Born in 1782, he died at 21 Ardgowan Square on 2 May 1863, aged 81. His wife, Isabella Marquis, passed away in 1886, aged 86.

STOP 15 EAST SIDE

The tenements at the corner of Ardgowan Street date from 1871

The Ardgowan Club, in the middle of the square, began in 1841, when a group of local men decided Greenock needed a recreational space. It’s one of the oldest clubs in Scotland. Originally ground for grazing cattle, the current two-acre site was donated by local landowner Patrick Maxwell Stewart. At inception the grounds featured a bowling green, a curling pond, and an area for playing quoits, surrounded by gardens and walking paths. Over time, the layout evolved, and today there are two bowling greens and four tennis courts.

The first clubhouse, a brick building, was erected in 1860, then replaced in 1906. The current clubhouse, was built in 1926.

On this side of the square, at Inverhouse as known now, lived a remarkable Greenockian: Captain William Orr. Indulge me for a moment while I tell you about him.

Captain Orr was born in 1808 and spent his life at sea before retiring to become a partner in the sugar refining firm Anderson, Orr & Co.

From his obituary in the Greenock Telegraph:

“Captain William Orr, a highly esteemed and respected citizen of Greenock, passed away shortly after nine o’clock this morning at his residence, 14 Ardgowan Square, in his 96th year. He was the oldest inhabitant of the town...”

Born in Greenock on 2 January 1808, Captain Orr lived through the reigns of five monarchs—George III, George IV, William IV, Victoria, and Edward VII. As a boy, he remembered the excitement when news arrived of Wellington’s victory at Waterloo.

He came from a long line of seafarers. One of his ancestors, born in Greenock in 1694, was appointed shore-master of the town in recognition of his bravery against Spanish privateers. Captain Orr’s own father was also a sailor, but died of yellow fever aboard his ship, the Nereide, on Waterloo Day, 15 June 1815, and was buried at sea off the Canary Islands.

Following in his father’s footsteps, young William went to sea at thirteen. His early voyages were full of adventure—and danger. While an apprentice, he witnessed piracy in South American waters and even saw pirate crews executed at Jamaica and Port Royal.

In 1827, he sailed to Sydney and later to the Sandwich Islands (now Hawaii). When his ship was dismasted in a gale and abandoned, he spent months wandering the islands with another Scotsman named Grant. The pair joined a smuggling vessel running contraband between Mexico and California, surviving gunfire from U.S. soldiers and knife fights with Spanish traders.

One such encounter inspired Orr to join the Freemasons—a commitment he upheld for over seventy years. He became a member of Lodge Greenock St. John No. 175 and Greenock Kilwinning No. 12, and was eventually recognised as the oldest craftsman in Scotland.

In 1831, Captain Orr became captain and part-owner of the sailing vessel Elizabeth, trading to the West Indies and occasionally to Archangel. His voyages were filled with colourful incidents—among them, rescuing a dog destined to be drowned (earning him a £40 gift from a grateful merchant), and saving his ship from a violent storm after wisely trusting an early barometer reading.

He retired from the sea in 1846 and went into business as a sugar broker in Glasgow, later establishing the refinery Anderson, Orr & Co. In Greenock’s old Berryyards. When he eventually left the firm, he served nearly thirty years as an official of the Harbour Trust.

A keen sportsman, Captain Orr was an enthusiastic bowler and one of the Ardgowan Club’s most devoted members. At 85, he came second in the club championship, and years earlier had gifted a silver trophy cup, displayed at the opening of the new green and tennis courts. Though ill and unable to attend, he watched the event from the window of his home.

He took immense pride in the beauty and development of Ardgowan Square, where his long, adventurous life came to a peaceful close.

This west side the square was largely undeveloped at first, bar Orrs house, originally owned by Episcopal minister Charles Cole.. The next two buildings that appear on maps sometime after 1862.

One is the home of the RAF Club which I believe was owned by shipowner and councillor A J Black. This social club was opened in 1947.

Greenock was home to a volunteer squadron of air force cadets, called the 49f MacRoberts Reply. Founded in 1941 in honour of Lady MacRobert who lost three sons in combat. She paid for two bombers. Many of the cadets went on to the RAF, fighting in WW2

Greenock was also home to a maintenance base for flying boats, situated at the Battery Park, further to our west.

If you look closely at the last building on the left, you’ll see the lovely stained glass windows on the red sandstone tenement.

STOP 16 NORTH SIDE

If you fancy a wee break, I can recommend Coffee Comfort, just over on the next corner, or the more refined surroundings of the Tontine itself.

The next building you’ll come to is the Tontine Hotel — the oldest building in Ardgowan Square and one of the most historic landmarks in Greenock.

It was originally built as a country retreat for George Robertson, a prominent merchant deeply involved in the Newfoundland fishing trade. Robertson was one of the richest and most influential men in Greenock during his time. His greenhouse here was famous for its collection of tropical plants, many of which were likely brought back from his overseas voyages.

Robertson was also responsible for developing an innovative water supply system at the Cut, high above Greenock. This clever engineering feat provided water power for some of the town’s earliest mills — a remarkable example of 19th-century ingenuity that helped drive Greenock’s industrial growth.

The house later passed to Adam Fairrie, a former Provost of Greenock, who died in Liverpool on the 26th of July, 1879, at the age of 81. He was the son of James Fairrie of Irvine and, along with his brother Thomas, ran one of the town’s largest sugar refining businesses — with refineries at both Glebe and Cartsdyke. Fairrie served on the Town Council from 1831 to 1847 and was deeply involved in the management of the Greenock Infirmary.

His obituary describes him in glowing terms:

“The house, which belonged to Bailie Robertson and where Mr. Brown now resides, was the most palatial mansion in town. From it there proceeded more social and political influence than from any other habitation. Mr. Fairrie had a large family and, though sometimes ostentatious, exercised a powerful moral force — for the good of the community. As a sugar refiner, he was one of our most enterprising manufacturers, and as an employer, he was greatly esteemed for his consideration and kindness — qualities that seemed hereditary in his family.”

At the turn of the 20th century, the original Tontine Hotel situated Greenock town centre moved here to Ardgowan Square. Since then, the Tontine has played a central role in local life — hosting celebrations, weddings, farewells, and gatherings of every kind. For generations of Greenock residents, it’s been the backdrop to countless stories — a place where life’s “hatches, matches, and despatches” have all been marked with warmth and style.

Next along the street, you’ll find the current offices of some of Greenock’s longest-established legal firms — names that have been part of the town’s professional life for generations.

Next door, you’ll see the offices of Neill, Clerk & Murray, a law firm with roots going all the way back to 1841, when it was founded by Robert Neill. Over the years, as new partners joined, the firm’s name evolved — from R. & S. Neill to Neill, Clerk & Murray after George Murray became a partner in the late 19th century.

Robert Neill himself was an expert in mercantile law, using his legal skills to support the development of Greenock’s harbours — vital to the town’s prosperity. He also served as Provost of Greenock from 1871 to 1876, helping to guide the town through a period of great change and growth.

The building housing the firm today was originally owned by Andrew Lindsay, a partner in the Greenock Cotton Mill Company — yet another example of how the town’s industrial, commercial, and professional worlds have long been intertwined. Andrew Anderson, who we met at George Square also lived here at one time.

The Patten family were well-known here — a remarkable line of bankers, lawyers, and sugar refiners who played an important role in Greenock’s commercial scene. The Prentices, too, left their mark as both lawyers and architects, helping to shape the fabric of the town in more ways than one.

This particular building was once owned by Dr. James Mackie, who lived here with his two sisters. Dr. Mackie had been practicing medicine in Greenock since 1820 and was a respected figure in the community. He passed away in 1869. His sisters ran a small private school from the house, catering mainly to the children of merchants working in the West Indies and the Far East — a reflection of Greenock’s strong global trading connections at the time.

One intriguing detail from Dr. Mackie’s will mentions a generous bequest to Emily Vaux Jenney, a lady from Bermuda who had worked here as a governess — a reminder of the far-reaching personal links that often grew out of the town’s maritime connections. She appears to have lived here after the Mackies died.

The impressive building on the corner is known as the New Mansion House. It was built in 1886 to replace the estate office of the Shaw Stewart family, Greenock’s aristocratic landowners. Their original offices were once at Wellpark, but those were demolished to make way for the extension of the railway line between Greenock and Gourock.

Take a look above the door — you’ll see a coat of arms divided into six quarters, which is quite unusual. In the top left, the lion rampant represents the Stewarts. On the top right are three cups, taken from the Schaw family’s coat of arms. These symbolized their historic duty as royal wine tasters — not for pleasure, but to make sure the drink wasn’t poisoned!

To the right of the main entrance, you can spot the initials of the building’s first owner, Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart, along with the date 1886 and, once again, the Schaws’ three cups.

The Mansion House was built on the site of a home that once belonged to Neil Brown, an agent and wood measurer. He had taken over the timber yard of Haddow, which was located near the Carts Burn to the east.

Neil Brown was a generous and civic-minded man — he donated books to the Cartsdyke Mechanics Library and was one of the original Clyde Marine Volunteers, who stood ready to defend against French invaders in 1805. His obituary paints a touching portrait of his life:

“This venerable and highly esteemed townsman died yesterday afternoon at his residence, 2 Ardgowan Square. He must have attained to the patriarchal age of 85 years… His long life presented a uniform example of stability and integrity of character rarely to be equalled, and scarcely ever excelled.”

Provost Dugald Campbell lived here prior to 1888.

Today, the Mansion House has been converted into private flats — but it still stands proudly as a reminder of Greenock’s grandeur and the people who helped build its reputation.

STOP 17 PATRICK STREET

Turning down Patrick Street we can see some nice buildings on either side of the street. These were homes to several ships captains over the years.

A notable figure was Peter Maxton, a shipowner and business partner of William Martin in Greenock’s thriving maritime trade. He passed away here on Patrick Street on the 6th of October, 1853.

His son, Captain Peter Maxton, followed in his father’s seafaring footsteps and went on to command two famous tea clippers — the Falcon and the Lord of the Isles.

The Lord of the Isles holds a special place in Greenock’s shipbuilding history. Built right here in 1853, she was the first iron-hulled tea clipper ever constructed. For nearly a decade, she sailed the tea routes between Britain and China and even made voyages to Australia. She became legendary for her remarkable speed — setting a record passage between Greenock and Shanghai and earning fame in the great Tea Race of 1856, when she arrived in London just ten minutes ahead of her rival, the Maury.

Stories like these remind us how deeply Greenock’s fortunes were tied to the sea — and how the skill and daring of its shipbuilders and captains helped make maritime history.

On your left at Houston Street, just behind the wall, stands the former home of William Martin — a distinguished ship’s captain and a man remembered as an “incessant labourer in the cause of religion and virtue.”

After leaving the life of a shipmaster early in his career, and being comfortably well-off, Martin dedicated nearly two generations of his life to charitable and moral causes. He passed away here, at 18 Patrick Street, on the 15th of January 1869, at the remarkable age of 90.

Throughout his life, he held a number of important roles in the community. He served as Chairman of the Friends of Sabbath Observance, campaigning passionately against Sunday train services on the Edinburgh & Glasgow Railway — just as he had done for the Glasgow–Greenock line. He was also a Trustee of Greenock Infirmary, Chairman of the Association for Female Education in India, and President of the Greenock branch of the National Bible Society.

A man of strong convictions and tireless energy, William Martin left behind a legacy of faith, philanthropy, and civic duty that helped shape Greenock’s moral and social life in the 19th century.

On your left, you’ll see St Mary’s Catholic Church. The first Catholic mission in Greenock was founded back in 1808, and this church building followed in 1862. It’s a place that holds many personal memories for me — my mother was baptised, married, and buried from here.

Just across the street stands St Mary’s Primary School, that the local Catholic community worked hard to build in 1909. My grandfather helped raise the funds for it, and all five of his children — four sons and a daughter(my mum) — went to school within those very walls.

STOP 18 GLEBE

Cross at the lights and continue down Patrick Street. This has been quite a long walk and you have probably heard enough from me. If you didn’t take advantage of a coffee break at Ardgowan Square, the café you see ahead on the right — Café Mòr — sits inside a remarkable piece of Greenock’s history. This was once St Columba’s Church, built in 1823 to serve the town’s Gaelic-speaking community. It’s a beautiful old stone building that has found a new life, while still holding onto its 19th-century charm.

If not if you follow the road round to Container Way you will come back to where you started. On a future visit, you might enjoy the Greenock Westwards Tour, which explores more stories from this part of town.

Right now, you’re standing on a street that was once alive with the sounds and smells of Greenock’s busy port days. In its heyday, cattle would arrive here by ship and be kept in pens at the Cattle Market, just at the foot of the street. From there, they were herded through town to the slaughterhouse on Ann Street — quite a sight to imagine today!

You’ll pass the Aldi supermarket on your right. This spot was once home to the Old Glebe Sugar Refinery, where sugar freshly unloaded from ships sailing in from the West Indies was processed — a reminder of Greenock’s deep ties to global trade.

Thank you for taking the time to join me today. I hope you’ve enjoyed my little tales and historical wanderings. Until next time — farewell!

I would love to hear any feedback or suggestions on how to improve the walk, so that future visitors can enjoy it even more.