-CO2penhagen WWWalk

"Why do islands give rise to such unusual inhabitants?"

”Isolated from the mainland, a new island often provides a unique habitat, with its own set of conditions life can then evolve differently. Some creatures develop the most unusual traits to survive – and thrive – in their new home. In many cases, separated from their mainland ancestors, they eventually transform into new species altogether.” – BBC Teach Biology.

There’s a special atmosphere on islands - often melting pots of ideas, influences and an acceptance of differences. A collection of large man-made islets which are grouped together just across the harbour from Copenhagen under the name of Christianshavn. Moreover, they fit perfectly into this eccentric description of island life. With their fragile existence resting on a bed of reclaimed sand bars, there’s something in the air which smacks of courage, resourcefulness and an acute awareness that rising sea levels could once again snatch it all away.

On the -CO2penhagen tour we’re looking at ways in which the inhabitants of Christianshavn, and in Denmark as a whole, have adapted to their low-lying geography and geology. How they harnessed the power of nature, and through sheer nerve and human ingenuity created some magnificent new, and not so new technologies in order to survive, and nowadays to reduce CO2 emissions and break the reliance on fossil fuels. We’ll examine some unique and starkly contrasting places and hopefully provide you with a vast swathe of information, enjoyment and entertainment on this walk on the wildside!

It’s a full day's excursion, so please take water, a few snacks, wear appropriate clothing and have a hearty breakfast before you go. Otherwise, take it low and slow. As this is an app tour designed for you to take at your own pace, simply split the tour to your liking in order to immerse yourself fully in all the fascinating watery places along the 9 km route.

At the start of the -CO2penhagen tour you’ll be lulled into an olde worlde vibe, as you experience an idyllic patchwork of canals lined by 17th and 18th century buildings. All remarkably preserved along the renaissance artery of the Christianshavns Kanal. A place which still offers a colourful charm that much of the inner city over the harbour has lost, apart from tourist saturated places such as Nyhavn. The preservation of the past is all down to the disastrous fires which frequently devastated the tightly-packed walled city of old Copenhagen, but which never reached the watery splendour of Christianshavn. But don’t be fooled that you’re entering a place trapped in it’s picturesque past; as soon as you start walking our tour it morphs into a long and diverse ramble through time and right up to date.

This unique series of reclaimed islets are home to ten thousand people. Including an eclectic bunch of 850 hippie citizens in their own Freetown of Christiania, who in turn rub shoulders with landmark sustainable energy projects, trendy businesses, art schools, and young families. A Michelin starred restaurant, the new Danish Opera House and the remnants of a strong naval presence add to the unlikely mix of neighbourhoods linked like arteries by bridges, lakes and canals. Water defines and criss-crosses the fragile foundations of this place, it’s a magical area to wander around to soak up the determination and human stories of this reclaimed 3.43 sq km of land, courageously snatched from the sea over the past 400 years.

Seafaring, creativity, anarchy, ingenuity and a sense of vulnerability in this watery man-made home of Christianshavn and the islets of Holmen crackle in the air. A colourful patchwork of influences which we invite you to examine; to stop and gaze at the cranky spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke, enjoy a great coffee and watch happy Danes messing about in boats on the picturesque canals. To stumble across the open door of an ancient courtyard, and wander back in time into 17th century life – just minus the sound of horses and the smell of manure. Then, take a walk on the wildside over modern car-free bridges as you wind your way towards the hippie paradise at Freetown Christiania, immersing yourself in the 1970s flower power era – the wild child living next door with a badass reputation. But we bypass the dodgy areas and discover instead the flowers in her hair, the places that the peaceful residents love; the eco-friendly houses and freewheeling lifestyles which 50 years ago heralded the current movement in sustainable living.

The chimneys of CopenHill loom in the distance, not belching smoke but carbon-neutral steam. You walk on, past dramatic 18th century bastions, fortifications and reclaimed land. In wide moats, a solitary heron takes flight and you forget that you’re still in the capital city. A steep walk up the 850 metres of state-of-the-art CopenHill power station and you find yourself panting and surveying the city and the sea as snowboarders glide past - mad! Ski down, walk down, or take the lift – anything goes in Christianshavn.

Yet more watery landscapes await to marvel over, as you pass by the remote, reclusive and village-like construction of one of the most exclusive restaurants in the world, noma. The waiting list for reservations is one year, so walk on to the islet of Holmen and sample a taste of 400 years of the Danish naval presence here, with your packed lunch. You can feel the energy of this once busiest workplace in Copenhagen still flickering in the air. Now silent, still and more authentically Copenhagen than any of the overblown tourist destinations over the water. Stand surveying the now quiet harbour sides at Nyholm, which saw the Danish fleet scuttled in WW2 rather than be taken by the Germans, and where Denmark's hopes of being on the winning side in the Napoleonic war were dashed in 1807.

The vast pool of Copenhagen harbour lies sparkling before you; the spires of the churches and parliament, Amalienborg Palace, the heart of the city at Christiansborg. Our walk continues towards the magnificent and ultra modern Copenhagen Opera House, then winds its way past vast old warehouses which tell us of Denmark’s strong connection and affinity with the sea, shipping and trade since Viking times. If you scrunch your eyes up a little, you could imagine the scene in the 17th century, thronged with masted ships arriving with goods from Greenland, Iceland, Europe, Russia and Norway. This is where many fine ships of the line were constructed too, but nowadays the buildings linger rather like in a neglected retirement village, and sentimentally begin to relive their heady past here on Christianshavn to a new audience - to the new creative businesses, architecture and sustainable industries which are springing up, and to you on the -CO2penhagen tour.