Cardiff Castle
Transcript: Welcome to this AudioWalk where we’ll explore the city of Cardiff. We are beginning our tour outside the city’s most historic landmark, Cardiff Castle. Long before this was a castle, there was a Roman fort on this site, first built around the year 50AD. The fort was built here due to its strategic location next to the river Taff and not far from the sea. This is where the city gets its name, Cardiff, which comes from Caer-Taff, meaning ‘fort on the taff’.In the late 11th century, the first motte and bailey castle was built on this site by Norman invaders. If the castle is open, head into the courtyard for free and see the Norman Keep which is still standing today.Over the years, the castle passed through many noble families and became involved in several conflicts. Notably, it was stormed in 1404 during the revolt of Owain Glyndŵr which we’ll hear about later.In the 18th century, the castle fell into the hands of the Bute family through marriage and this marked a new era for the castle. The Butes were a rich family and became influential in the city. The castle passed through four marquesses of Bute. The two that we’re going to hear the most about on this tour are the 2nd marquess whose business acumen built Cardiff into a prosperous city, and the 3rd marquess who was instrumental in transforming the castle and it’s grounds. We might even see one of them on the tour today, but no spoilers just yet.Following the death of the 4th Marquess of Bute, the family decided to sell off the estate and they gifted the castle and grounds to the city of Cardiff in 1947. Today, it’s one of Wales’ most visited attractions.Now, let me tell you what to expect on this AudioWalk. During the tour, I’ll provide clear instructions to help you navigate and the audio will automatically play as you approach each stop. You can also use the onscreen map to find your way around and select audio tracks. But the tour works best when you visit each stop in the order I recommend.When you are ready, start walking along Castle Street towards the clock tower of the castle.
The Clock Tower
Transcript: Cardiff Castle’s clock tower was not part of the original design. It was added by the 3rd marquess of bute and his architect William Burges. Together, they were responsible for most of the renovations at Cardiff Castle including the lavish interiors you’ll see if you visit.The tower stands 40m tall and on each side are 3m tall figures of Gods in medieval costumes, these represent the classical planets. Not the planets that you and I might think of, but the seven objects that are visible in the sky to the naked eye; Mercury, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Venus, the sun, and the moon. Each figure stands on the symbol of the zodiac that they represent.The tower’s bell is a half-scale model of the one found in Victoria Tower at Westminster Palace in London.The Bute family didn’t actually live at the castle, their family home was Mount Stuart on the Isle of Bute in Scotland. This castle was essentially a lavish holiday home where they would spend a few weeks each year while they oversaw their other projects in the city.Now, continue walking along this road.
The Animal Wall
Transcript: As you walk, notice the animal sculptures on top of the wall to your right. This wall is known as the animal wall and is a much-loved feature of Cardiff.There were originally just six sculptures on a wall directly outside the castle in the 1880s. The sculptures were personally approved by the 3rd Marquess. You can tell the original six because they have glass eyes.In 1923, the wall was moved to its current location and the rest of the animals were added. See if you can work out what they are. The full collection includes a pair of lions holding shields, a lioness, a lynx, a bear, a sea lion, a wolf, a pair of apes, a hyena, a vulture, a beaver, a leopard, a pair of raccoons, a pelican and an anteater.Continue following the path.
Bute Park
Transcript: On your right, you’re approaching West Gate Lodge, a pedestrian entrance to Bute Park.The park was previously part of the castle grounds and West Lodge Gate was commissioned by the 3rd Marquess as the grand entrance to their estate.The park was renamed after the family when it was gifted to the city in 1947 along with the castle. The gatehouse has been converted into a tea room called Pettigrew Tea Rooms, named after the 3rd Marquess’s head gardener, Andrew Pettigrew.Bute Park is the largest urban park in Wales and is nicknamed ‘the green heart of the city’. It’s composed of grasslands, extensive tree collections, and recreation grounds. You’ll also find sculptures and the remains of a Victorian friary.Keep walking along the path until you reach the bridge.
Cardiff Bridge
Transcript: The bridge you’re approaching is Cardiff Bridge which runs over the River Taff. We’re not going over the bridge, instead, we’ll cross the road and head down the path to the left of the river.But first, let me tell you an interesting fact about Cardiff Bridge. In 1739, a ducking stool was installed here. This was a chair attached to a movable beam allowing people to be dunked into the river as a form of punishment.The official documents from the time say that it was used to punish women "whose violent tongues or outrageous conduct rendered them especially obnoxious to their neighbours".Now, follow the path down the side of the river, this is known as the Millenium Walkway. If you happen to be taking this tour after 7pm or when there is a match on at the stadium, the path may be blocked off so you can divert down the path on the opposite side of the river.
Millennium Walkway
Transcript: You should now be walking alongside the River Taff. But the river hasn’t always been in this location. It originally ran down Westgate street which runs parallel to this path on the other side of the stadium. The river was diverted here in the mid-1800s by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, one of the greatest civil engineers of the century.It was moved to allow Cardiff Central Station to be built in its current location which had previously been prone to flooding. We’ll learn more about Cardiff's history of flooding later.From here, the Taff runs down to Cardiff Bay where it enters the sea. The best way to enjoy the river is by catching the public boat from Bute Park to Cardiff Bay which includes an onboard audioguide.
Principality Stadium
Transcript: On your left are two stadiums. The smaller one in front is Cardiff Arms Park, home to the Cardiff Blues rugby team which is one of four professional rugby teams in Wales. However, Cardiff Arms Park is dwarfed by the newer stadium behind it. The Millennium Stadium, now known as the Principality Stadium for sponsorship reasons, was built in 1999 to host the Rugby World Cup. It’s the national stadium of Wales and home to the Welsh National Rugby Union team.It can hold over 74,000 fans, making it the largest stadium in Wales and one of the biggest in the UK.As well as rugby matches, it has hosted boxing, cricket, speedway, and large scale concerts. It also hosted football games during the London Olympics and has held international fixtures including the UEFA final.If you want to see more of the stadium, you can book a tour to get behind-the-scenes access to this iconic venue. Now, continue walking along the Millenium Walkway.
Rugby World Cup Mosaics
Transcript: If you look down at your feet while you walk, you should see a series of 21 mosaics in the pavement.These feature each of the countries that played in the 1999 Rugby World Cup, for which the stadium was originally built. Look at the paving stones around each mosaic and you should see the names of the players that competed for each team.Take a moment to pause when you reach the 12th mosaic, representing Wales.In the middle is the Welsh national flag which you should be familar with, a red dragon on a green and white background. The red dragon has been a symbol of Wales since the 5th century when, according to legend, a red dragon, representing the Celtic people, won in a battle against a white dragon, representing the Saxons.The white and green colours came much later. They were the colours of the Tudor house, a Welsh family who took the English throne and united the countries.Despite this long history, it wasn’t until 1959 that the flag was recognised by the British Government as the official flag of Wales.Keep walking all the way down Millenium Walkway until you reach Wood Street where you should turn left.
Turn Left Onto Wood Street
Directions: Turn left onto Wood Street, stay on the left-hand side of the road.
BBC Cymru Wales
Transcript: You should be walking along Wood Street. The area on the opposite side of the road is known as Central Square. This is home to the main strain station and several of the city’s media organisations including Media Wales, Cardiff University’s journalism and media department, and the headquarters of BBC Cymru Wales.The latter is responsible for all BBC TV and radio broadcasting in Wales as well as being the base for S4C, or S4C, the Welsh-language public TV channel.You can take a 90-minute guided tour of the building where you’ll see behind the scenes and explore the newsrooms, radio studios, and TV sets.BBC Cymru Wales produce many well-known BBC dramas, including Doctor Who, Casualty, Pobol y Cwm, Merlin, and Sherlock. However, these are filmed over at Roath Lock studios near Cardiff Bay.Continue down this street until you see the large Betty Campbell statue on your left.
Betty Campbell Statue
Transcript: This 4m high bronze statue of a woman’s head is Betty Campbell, Wales' first black headteacher.Betty Campbell, who passed away in 2017, proved her doubters wrong after being told as a child that her dream job as a head teacher was "insurmountable". In the 1970s, she went on to become headteacher of Mount Stuart Primary School in Cardiff, at a time when many of the parents had never even seen a black teacher before.The statue was created by sculptor Eve Shepherd after the public voted for it from a shortlist of five significant Welsh women.Now, continue walking down Wood Street.
St Mary’s Church
Transcript: As you walk, can you spot the building on the opposite side of the road with the outline of a church marked in the side?This is where St Mary’s Church was built in the 11th century. It was the largest church in Cardiff at the time and would have once housed monks.I mentioned earlier that the River Taff used to take a different route through the city. The original route came right near this church so it was susceptible to flooding and occasionally bodies from burials would be washed down the river.In 1606, a huge flood caused by a storm swept across the area, killing thousands and causing considerable damage to the church. By the end of the century, the tower had collapsed and it was eventually abandoned.After the river Taff was moved, the site of the former church went on to have a very different future. A theatre was built here, which later became a sex cinema, and then went on to become a pub called ‘The Prince of Wales’ which it remains today.Keep walking to the end of Wood Street, then turn left onto St Mary’s Street.
St Mary’s Street
Transcript: St Marys Street is named after the old church I just told you about.As you join it, note the building on your left on the very corner. This is The Royal Hotel, Cardiff’s oldest grand hotel. It’s where Captain Scott had his farewell dinner before his ill-fated expedition to Antarctica. Not only was he beaten to the pole by Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, but he and his five fellow crew mates perished on the return journey.Continue walking down St Mary’s Street as I tell you about its gruesome history. Hundreds of years ago, St Mary’s Street would have been where public executions took place.One example is Rawlins White, a fisherman who was proud of his protestant views. He was jailed at Cardiff Castle and when authorities couldn’t force him to rescind his views, they bought him here to St Mary’s Street in 1555 and burnt him on a stake. Over the years, there have also been hangings, mostly taking place down near Cardiff Market where we are heading next.A long way from its former days of capital punishment, today, St Mary’s Street is the nightlife hub of Cardiff, lined with every kind of bar, restaurant, and nightclub you could need.Keep walking down St Mary’s Street until you see Wharton Street on the right.
Turn Right Down Wharton Street
Directions: Leave St Mary’s Street by taking a right down Wharton Street.
The Hayes
Transcript: At the end of Wharton Street, you’ll come to an area known as The Hayes. When you reach The Hayes, turn right and continue until you reach the statue of John Bachelor in the middle of the street. The area in the middle of the street with food stalls is called Hayes Island.Notice that you’ll walk past several silver bollards in the street. Some of these unassuming bollards contain secret artwork. Look for the one with orange writing that says look inside. Put your eye to the peephole to reveal the secret artwork by Jane Edden and students at the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama.There are 12 bollards like this across the city, look out for more around this area too.
John Batchelor Statue
Transcript: By now, you should have reached the statue of John Batchelor, a prominent Welsh Victorian businessman and politician for the liberal party, which later became the liberal democrats.He was radical for the time, campaigning against slavery and fighting for the less fortunate. This earned him the title ‘friend of freedom’ which you can see written on the base of the statue.Batchelor became Mayor of Cardiff in 1853 and is credited with bringing a clean water supply and sewerage system to the town.We have talked a lot about the Bute family on this tour. They were very rich and owned large parts of the city including the castle and the docks. Bachelor was one of the few people brave enough to stand up against them.His actions, often in favour of the working class, angered the Butes. Using his wealth and influence, the 3rd Marquess of Bute ensured the collapse of Batchelor’s own business interests and caused his demise, resulting in bankruptcy.Now, we’re going to loop back around and head down the other side of Hayes Island.
Hayes Island Snack Bar
Transcript: Today The Hayes is a commercial area in the city centre. But back in Tudor times, this would have been a huge garden where townsfolk could grow fruit and vegetables. Their plots would be separated by hedgerows.Its name, The Hayes, comes from an old Anglo-French term meaning hedgerows.Stop near the green kiosk on your left called Hayes Island Snack Bar. It might not look like much, but it’s credited with being the oldest snack bar in Wales.Before it’s days as a snack bar, the kiosk was a parcels depot for Cardiff Corporation Tramways. A large network of horse-drawn trams used to operate in the city. These were later replaced with electric trams, and eventually electric trolleybuses which you’ll still see today. They look like regular buses operating on the road, but they draw electricity from overhead cables.Now, turn your attention to the concert hall on the opposite side of the street.
St David’s Concert Hall
Transcript: St David’s Concert Hall is the National Concert Hall of Wales. The idea was to create an acoustically perfect auditorium. The hall has been placed among the top 10 best-sounding concert halls in the world.The venue was officially opened by the Queen Mother in 1983. Tom Jones and Shirley Bassey are among the early artists who enjoyed performing at the venue. More recently, it has attracted the likes of U2, Adele, Sir Elton John, and Amy Winehouse.Continue walking down the street past the hall.
Cardiff Museum
Transcript: On your left, you’ll spot the tourist information office which is housed in the old library building. If you look to the roof of the building as you approach it from The Hayes, you’ll see a statue of the Greek goddess of wisdom, Athena.It also says Ni Bydd Doeth Ni Ddarlleno, an old motto which means ‘There is no wisdom without reading’.The library was one of the centrepieces of Victorian Cardiff, built because the old one ws too small for the fast growing city. Even this one wasn’t big enough as it was attracting 3,500 people every day, so it had to be extended shortly after opening.Today, inside the building, you’ll find the Museum of Cardiff. This free museum delves deep into Cardiff’s past with interactive exhibits and displays, it’s worth stopping by if you have time.Just past the old library building is St John’s Gardens. We’re going to take the shortcut through the middle of St John’s Gardens, a small path called Dead Mans Alley.
Dead Man’s Alley
Transcript: As you walk down dead man’s alley, look out for the metal numbers on some of the paving slabs below your feet. This path was built right across the graveyard of St John’s Church and the numbers correspond to burial vaults below. Hence it’s name, dead man’s alley.The church allowed the council to build a path across the graveyard to provide better access to Cardiff Market in return for them maintaining the churchyard.Another condition was that the path remained church property and not a public right of way. To signify this, the path would be closed every year on Good Friday, a custom which is still done to the present day.Continue to the end of dead man’s alley where you’ll find Cardiff Market.
Cardiff Market
Transcript: You are now at the main entrance to Cardiff Market. If it’s open, go in and have a wander around. You’ll find a variety of fresh produce, cooked food, and handmade goods from independent makers.This is one of the best places in Cardiff to try some traditional baked goods such as Welsh Cakes or Bara Brith. You can see them being freshly baked right in front of you.The market is over 130 years old. But prior to being a market, it was the site of Cardiff Jail which housed hundreds of prisoners. As I mentioned earlier, many of them were executed at public gallows on St Mary’s Street which is on the opposite side of the market to where you are now.Old documents reveal that for each execution, the hangman was paid £4 and four shillings as well as expenses of 15 shillings for ale and punch.Next, we’re going to look at the large church opposite the market, head around to it’s main entrance.
St John the Baptist Church
Transcript: In front of you is St John the Baptist Church. Earlier I spoke about St Mary’s Church which was once the biggest and most important church in Cardiff. But it still wasn’t big enough.So, in the 12th century, this new church was built to accommodate more people. This is known as a chapel of ease.A few hundred years later, in the early 15th century, the rebellion of Owain Glyndwr took place across Wales. He claimed to be the true Prince of Wales so his supporters captured Welsh towns and cities that had been built by the English and destroyed them.In 1404, he broke through the west gate of Cardiff and destroyed many of its buildings, including most of this church so few original features remain. It’s ironic that the pub on the corner next to the church is now called the Owain Glyndwr.After the rebellion, the church was rebuilt and the large tower was added with 10 bells.When St Mary’s Church was destroyed by flooding in the 16th century as we learnt earlier, the main services were moved here instead. The church is now the second oldest building in the city centre, after Cardiff Castle. Next, we’re going to follow the path around the church and turn left past the Owain Glyndwr pub. Stop when you reach Burger King.
The Mahogany Room
Transcript: You might be wondering why we’re standing outside a Burger King restaurant. Well, that’s because it hides another of Cardiff’s secrets.Look to the first floor and the two sets of windows on the right. Notice they look different to all of the others. Well, behind these windows is a secret room known as the Mahogany Room.This room used to be an exclusive bar, where ship owners, stockbrokers and members of Cardiff Borough Council would drink. It’s special because it features deep mahogany panels, intricate mosaics and stained glass windows.When burger king purchased the building, they could not do anything with the room because it’s a Grade II listed room. So, the mahogany room just sits there behind a ‘staff only’ sign and might occasionally be used for staff meetings.After Burger King, you are going to end up back on the corner of Castle Street, near where the tour began. We’re going to continue walking straight, but first, stop near the statue of Aneurin Bevan.
Aneurin Bevan Statue
Transcript: Aneurin Bevan was a valleys boy from Tredegar, around 50 minutes north of Cardiff. He had a working-class upbringing and began life as a butcher’s boy, then working as a miner.He became involved in his local miner’s union which gave him an interest in politics. He eventually became a member of parliament for his local area under the labour party.Bevan was at the forefront of the campaign for a National Health Service to provide medical care free at the point-of-need across the UK, regardless of wealth. He was named among the 100 Welsh heroes and this statue was erected in 1987 to commemorate him.The statue sits at the end of Queen Street which is Cardiff’s main shopping street. We’re not going to visit the street today but come back later to take a look.Now, continue walking in the same direction.
Turn Right Down Unmarked Lane
Directions: Take the first right turn down an unmarked lane. It might not look like anything exciting but it’s hiding a piece of Cardiff’s history. Look for the stone wall on your right.
Old Town Walls
Transcript: This stone wall is the largest remaining piece of the old town walls of Cardiff. The medieval walls would have been built just after the original Cardiff Castle. Like the castle, the original walls would have been wooden and later replaced with stone.The stone walls would have been 1.2 miles, or 2 kilometres, long, encircling much of the current-day city centre. They would have been 3 metres tall and almost 2 metres thick making them very difficult to penetrate. The walls would have contained five gates to enter the town. Do you remember West Gate Lodge which we saw at the beginning of the tour. This is what the town wall gates would have looked like.Now, head back out onto the main road and turn right to continue in the same direction as before.When you reach the next crossing, look for a statue in a small park on your right. Head towards this
Friary Gardens
Transcript: You are now standing in Friary Garden. In 1897, the council purchased Cathays Park from the 3rd Marquess of Bute. But he made it a condition that this small plot would never be built on.You should remember the third Marquess. He was responsible for much of Cardiff Castle’s renovations, the animal wall, and was opposed to the policies of John Batchelor.Well, now you can finally meet the man face-to-face. This statue is of John Crichton-Stuart, also known as the 3rd Marquess of Bute. It was unveiled in 1930, when the Bute’s still owned the castle and Bute park.Now, leave the park and continue straight down Greyfriars Road past the large Capital Tower building.
Greyfriars Road
Transcript: As you’re walking down Greyfriars Road, you’ll spot many references to friars.That’s because, in the late 13th century, a group of Franciscan monks set up a friary just outside the castle walls. It would have been where the large Capital Tower building now stands. These monks were known as Greyfriars due to the colour of their grey clothing.The Greyfriars worked with the poor and needy in Cardiff. It’s reported that there are even secret underground tunnels which they used to get around without being noticed.However, in 1540, the friary was raided and demolished by Henry VIII during his clamp down on religion across England and Wales when he decided to cut ties with the Pope in Rome.At the time, another monastery of Dominican monks was located over in Bute Park. These were known as Blackfriars due to their dark hooded clothes. But this monastery was also abandoned during Henry VIII’s clampdown and you can still see the ruins in the park.Keep walking to the end of Greyfriars Road and look for the theatre on the corner.
New Theatre
Transcript: New Theatre is another important and historical theatre in Cardiff. It predates St David’s Theatre which we saw earlier and was the largest in the country when it was built in 1906.The theatre has survived against the odds. During the war, it never closed its doors despite air attacks on Cardiff, and it even hosted wartime sweetheart Vera Lynn.One of the most famous stories from the theatre is when English comedian Benny Hill was arrested here. He was called up for duty in the war, but because of his wandering lifestyle, he never received his papers.In November 1942, the fourth night into a run of shows at the New Theatre, military police turned up to the show and arrested him there and then.The theatre continues to host comedy shows, pantomimes, musicals, and more today. Some of those to grace its stage include Laurel and Hardy, Tommy Cooper, Sir Ian McKellen, Dawn French and even David Hasselhoff.Now turn left down Park Place and go straight across at the first crossing.
Continue Straight Down Park Place
Directions: Keep heading straight until you see the National Museum Cardiff on your left, you can’t miss it.
National Museum Cardiff
Transcript: You are now outside the National Museum Cardiff. The museum first opened its doors to the public in 1927, despite being unfinished at the time. Its development was constantly interrupted, by the outbreak of war, and by lack of funding, work was only complete in 2011, almost a century after the foundations were laid.The museum is free to visit and contains a huge natural history exhibit on the ground floors where you can learn about the creation of Wales and the evolution of life on Earth.It also has a renowned art gallery upstairs with the biggest collection of French Impressionist Art in Europe outside of Paris. Here you can find works by Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, and more.Now, move across to the grand building to the left of the museum, City Hall.
City Hall
Transcript: Cardiff received city status from King Edward VII in 1905, just in time for the opening of this brand-new city hall building in 1906. But it was still another 50 years before Cardiff was officially recognised as the capital of Wales in 1955.This building was one of the first Edwardian Baroque-style buildings in Cardiff. It was made from white Portland stone which gave it a much-needed feeling of elegance and grandeur.At the very top of the building, you’ll see the Welsh dragon. The clock tower was purposefully made to be larger than the clock tower of Cardiff Castle, a sign of rivalry between council leaders and the Bute family.The city hall serves as Cardiff's centre of local government whilst the Welsh parliament, which approves the laws for Wales, is based in Cardiff Bay at the Senedd building.You can also go inside city hall for free and look around where you’ll find statues of important figures in Welsh history including Llewelyn the Last Prince, Henry VII, and St David.Now to finish the tour, take a look at the pair of obelisks outside city hall.
Obelisks With Coat of Arms
Transcript: These Portland stone obelisks are elaborate lamp stands that would have once lit up the civic centre. Look at the coat of arms on the front of the obelisks.This is the Cardiff coat of arms. In the centre, you’ll see a red dragon holding a large leek, both of which are important symbols of Wales. The dragon holds a flag with three chevrons. This is taken from the De Clare coat of arms. The de Clare family were one of the early noble families that ruled South Wales just after Cardiff Castle was built.On one side is a mountain goat and on the other is a sea horse. This is because Cardiff and its port were seen as a key link between the mountains and the sea.The goat and seahorse are wearing the royal badge for Wales whilst the crest contains the Prince of Wales’ three feathers symbol. These both denote royal favours the city received. The inclusion of the Tudor red rose is another nod to the city’s past.That brings us to the end of today's tour. I look forward to joining you on another Audiowalk soon.
