Norwegian Church Arts Centre
Transcript: Hello and welcome to this Audiowalk where we’ll explore Cardiff Bay. The area around you was once a bustling dockland and hub of industrial activity. The first dock was built here by the Bute family in 1839, known as Bute West Dock. Its purpose was to export coal transported down from the South Wales Valleys via the Glamorganshire Canal.Throughout the century, Cardiff docks grew and became one of Britain’s three major ports, along with London and Liverpool.At the time, the Norwegian merchant fleet was the third largest merchant fleet in the world, and Cardiff docks became one of their major centres of operation.Take a look at the white church beside you. This is the Norwegian Church Arts Centre. It was a protestant church built by the Norwegians to provide home comforts, communication, and religious education to the community of Scandinavian sailors that was growing here.The church wasn’t always in this spot. It used to stand where the millennium centre is now located. We’ll visit this later. When the shipping trade in Cardiff died down after World War II, the church’s work was discontinued and it was eventually closed.The church wasn’t immediately put into its new location. It was dismantled and placed into storage until it could be rebuilt here in 1992. It’s no longer a functional church, but is open to the public and contains a small café. Now, turn your attention to look across the Bay. Do you see the big modern building with the unusual sweeping roof? That is St David’s Hotel, a five-star hotel designed to look like a ship, reflecting the area's maritime history. The unique roof is designed to look like a seabird. We’ll end the tour near this building later on.During the tour, I’ll provide clear instructions to help you navigate and the audio will automatically play as you approach each stop. You can also use the onscreen map to navigate and choose which audio to play. But the tour works best when you visit each stop in the order I recommend.First, we’re going to explore this area around the church, called Britannia Park. Follow the red-brick path anti-clockwise around the park, starting with the white statue next to the church.
Captain Scott Memorial
Transcript: This white statue is the Captain Scott memorial. On 15 June 1910, a large, excited and noisy crowd cheered the SS Terra Nova ship as it left Cardiff Docks for Antarctica.On board were Captain Robert Falcon Scott and the four members of his British Antarctic Expedition, who aimed to be the first people to reach the South Pole.Scott reached the South Pole on 17th–18th January 1912, but the achievement was bittersweet as he discovered that Norweigan explorer Amundsen had got there first. The 800-mile journey back to their base camp was torturous and on the way, Scott and his crew died from cold and hunger.The statue in front of you is a memorial. The design shows Scot hurtling South towards the Pole, while the faces of his colleagues can be seen trapped in the snow.The proximity of the memorial to the Norweigan Church is a poignant reminder that Scott was beaten to the Pole by Amundsen.Now, continue anti-clockwise around Britannia Park on the redbrick path. Look for the statue of a coal miner.
From Pit to Port
Transcript: In front of you is a sculpture of a coal miner leaning against a dram. It’s called 'From Pit to Port' and celebrates the link between the coal pits in the Welsh Valleys and the thriving ports which used to be here.The export of coal through Cardiff Bay played a major role in building Cardiff into the capital city of Wales and helped the Bute family, who owned the docks, become one of the richest families in the world at the time.As the docks grew, a huge population of dockworkers and sailors settled in neighbourhoods close to the docks which became known as Tiger Bay.However, when the shipping industry collapsed after World War II, the once thriving docks became derelict and Tiger Bay was plagued with unemployment. It became known for its red-light district and gambling.The Cardiff Bay Development Corporation was set up in 1987 to regenerate the entire area and, almost 40 years later, it’s considered one of the most successful regeneration projects in the UK.Cardiff still has three operation docks, you might be able to spot the cranes from here. It handles around 35,000 tons of goods per year, a far cry from the 10 million tons it handled at its peak in 1913.Head over to one of the quirky red brick benches.
Beastie Benches
Transcript: Dotted around this area are nine red brick benches known as the Beastie Benches.They are inspired by the mythical creatures from the poem ‘The ballad of a long Legged bait’. This poem was written by the famous Welsh writer Dylan Thomas and parts of the poem are also inscribed on the benches.You can see three here but look for the rest as you walk around.Now, continue following the red brick path around the park until you reach the large building called The Waterguard Tower which now contains a pub restaurant.
The Waterguard Tower
Transcript: The Waterguard Tower was built in the 1850s when it would have been the local Customs and Excise office. The officers stationed here were responsible for searching incoming vessels for contraband.Similar to the church, this is not the original location of the building. In 1993, it was moved around 100 metres as part of the regeneration of Cardiff Bay.What makes the move odd is that the building wasn’t taken down and rebuilt. Instead, the entire structure was lifted onto the back of a Pickford Truck. If you go inside, you can see photos of its original location and the move.Today, The Waterguard Tower is a digital detox pub. This means no phones or laptops are to be used inside. You’ll have to communicate the good old-fashioned way by talking.From the front of the Waterguard Tower, rejoin the waterfront and head in the direction of the Pierhead building, that’s the large red-brick building at the heart of Cardiff Bay. Stop when you reach the statue of a ship’s hull.
Merchant Seaman’s Memorial
Transcript: This statue blends together a large sleeping face with the breached hull of a ship. It’s called the Merchant Seaman’s Memorial and was built in memory of the sea merchant from Barry, Penarth, and Cardiff who died in the two world wars.These merchants risked their safety to keep the nation supplied and fed during difficult times, but as a result, many lost their lives during relentless attacks by German U-boats.The design of the memorial symbolises the deep connections that generations of Welsh seamen had with the sea and their ships.The statue was created by Brian Fell whose own father was a merchant. He had to learn the traditional shipbuilding technique of riveting plates of metal together in order to make the sculpture.Now, head towards the Welsh parliament building behind the statue.
The Senedd
Transcript: The building you are looking at is called The Senedd. It’s home to the Welsh Assembly also known as the Welsh Parliament. They are responsible for making laws for Wales, agreeing Welsh taxes and holding the Welsh Government to account.Although Wales has controlled some policies such as education for a long time, it’s only over the last two decades when Wales has received its own law-making powers in areas such as agriculture, health and housing. But the UK government in London still controls laws related to justice, defense, and social security.The Senedd has a very unique design. It centres around a huge wooden funnel. A huge canopy stretches out from the funnel forming the ceiling. The funnel represents the trunk of a tree, and the canopy its branches. This metaphor was chosen because the shade of a tree is a traditional meeting place.As well as being aesthetically pleasing, the funnel allows the building to be highly sustainable. It contains the world's largest wind-driven ventilation system of its kind. Warm air is drawn out of the main debating chamber and it’s replaced with fresh cool air through the funnel.The Senedd was designed to be as open and accessible as possible so it’s open to visitors and there is no admission fee.Inside, you can see right into the debating chamber from the public viewing gallery. If you want to learn more, they have an excellent free audio tour around the building.Our next stop is the Pierhead Building, that’s the large red-brick building next door. I’ll meet you outside.
The Pierhead Building
Transcript: The Pierhead Building is one of the most recognisable buildings in Wales, not least because it’s used as the backdrop to Welsh TV news bulletins. However, most people will struggle to tell you exactly what it’s for, so let me break it down.The building first opened in 1897 and played a central role in managing the docks. It was the headquarters for The Bute Dock Company which later became the Cardiff Railway Company. From this building, the dock master oversaw the ports, engineers drew up plans, and the accounts were settled.The clock tower is unofficially known as Baby Big Ben or the the Big Ben of Wales. There is a clock face on all four sides which would have been lit by a glass lamp behind the dials so that it was always visible to dock workers.If you look around the left side of the building, you’ll see a column of terracotta tiles. In the centre is Cardiff Railway Company’s coat of arms and further down is their motto “wrth ddwr a than” which means "by water and fire". These are the two elements required to create the steam power which transformed Wales.Today, the Pierhead Building is an extension of the Senedd next door, acting as an events and conference venue. You can go inside for free where you’ll find more information and exhibits about the building’s history.Now, head back to the waterfront and look for the large ring-shaped statue nearby.
The Celtic Ring
Transcript: This bronze Celtic Ring was sculpted by Harvey Hood in 1993. It was designed to look like a Celtic Torc, a piece of jewellery worn by people of high status.The sculpture marks the start of the Taff Trail, a 55-mile-long walking and cycling route that runs from Cardiff to Brecon in Mid-Wales.Stand inside the ring and you’ll be able to see engravings on its surface. These are all links to Cardiff Bay’s past. See if you can work out tidal charts, seafaring instruments, the Norwegian church we saw earlier and Cardiff docks.Next, we’re going to head underneath the footbridge onto Roald Dahl Plass.
Roald Dahl Plass
Transcript: This huge public space is known as Roald Dahl Plass. Slowly make your way towards the large shiny tower at the other end while I tell you a little more about it.If you’d have been here back when this was a thriving port, right now, you’d be swimming in the entrance to Bute West Dock, the main dock for coal exports. Ships would be passing by right next to you, taking coal from the South Wales valleys to customers. But after the decline of the shipping industry, the huge basin was filled in to prevent it from collapsing which is why you can now walk along it.As part of the Bay’s regeneration, it was made into a public meeting space with illuminated pillars, decking and seating areas. It’s home to several iconic buildings and has been used to host concerts and cultural events, including the Cardiff Food Festival and the National Eisteddfod.The space is named after Roald Dahl, the renowned children’s author who was born in Cardiff to Norweigan parents, with his father being involved in the shipping industry here at the docks.After a stint as a fighter pilot during World War II, Dahl went on to write famous children's books such as James and the Giant Peach, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and Matilda, which would eventually sell over 300 million copies worldwide.Do you remember the white Norweigan Church where we began the tour? The church originally stood near here, where the Millenium Centre now stands. It was in this church that Roald Dahl was christened. The building meant a lot to Dahl and his family, so, after it was closed, he was a leading figure in dismantling and preserving the old building.Unfortunately, Dahl died two years before the church was reconstructed at its current location. But in commemoration of what he did, a room inside is named 'The Dahl Gallery’ and they celebrate him each year in September on his Birthday.
The Water Tower
Transcript: By now, you should have reached the large tower at the end of Roald Dahl Plass and you’ll have noticed that it’s actually a 21m high metallic fountain with an intermitted flow of water running down its side. This is known as the water tower, not to be confused with the Waterguard Tower we saw earlier.Fans of the BBC TV show Torchwood will recognise the water tower as it was the filming location for the fictitious Torchwood Hub which, according to the series, lies beneath the plass. I’ll tell you more about Cardiff Bay’s link with the series later.Now, we’re going to turn our attention to the most iconic building in the Bay, the millennium centre. This is the large copper-coloured building with words across the front.
Wales Millennium Centre
Transcript: The Millennium Centre is the National Arts Centre for Wales. It contains two theatre halls which host opera, ballet, contemporary dance and musicals.The building has been designed to look like a ship's hull, again reflecting the maritime history of Cardiff Bay. It’s covered in steel which has been treated with copper oxide to withstand the weather conditions on the waterfront and to look increasingly better with age. Its appearance has led to the building being known locally as the Armadillo.Welsh materials have been used throughout the design. The exterior features 2,000 tonnes of recycled Welsh slate. The different colour slates come from different areas of the country and have been layered to look like the cliffs of South Wales. Hardwoods from sustainable Welsh woodlands have been used throughout the interior too.The words across the front of the building are actually huge 6ft tall windows into the upstairs bar area. The building looks best at night when the lights shine out, illuminating the words.There is a Welsh and an English phrase, although they are not translations of one another.The English words say "In These Stones Horizons Sing”. Gwyneth Lewis, the Welsh poet who wrote the words, says that the message brings together the local slate used in construction, the horizons of the sea which have been vital to Cardiff’s success, and the singing performances that take place inside the building.The Welsh words, written by the same poet, say ‘Creu Gwir fel Gwydr o Ffwrnais Awen’ which translates roughly as ‘Creating truth like glass from inspiration's furnace’. These words are a nod to the architecture of the building, the furnaces of Wales's industrial heritage, and poetic inspiration.If the centre is open, you can take a look inside the foyer which is free to explore. When you are done, face away from the millennium centre and we’re going to walk along the road directly ahead.
Turn Down Bute Street
Directions: Take the next left down Bute Street.This street links the city centre with the docks. If you walk in the opposite direction, you would end up at Cardiff Central Railway Station.But we’re going to head towards Mermaid Quay shopping centre.
Mermaid Quay
Transcript: Mermaid Quay is the large waterfront shopping and leisure complex in Cardiff Bay that has been an important part of the area’s redevelopment. It’s a popular place for food and drink in Cardiff Bay, with over 30 restaurants, cafes, and bars. It also has a cinema and a comedy club.Continue all the way through Mermaid Quay until you reach the railings near the waterfront with a statue of a couple and their dog.
People Like Us Statue
Transcript: This bronze sculpture of a young local couple with their dog was sculpted by John Clinch in 1993. It celebrates the people who lived and worked locally in the area known as Tiger Bay during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.As well as the large Scandinavian community, there were sailors and workers from over 50 countries settling there, making it one of Wales’ oldest multi-ethnic communities.One of the most famous residents from Tiger Bay is the singer Dame Shirley Bassey. She was born on Bute Street, where we just walked, and she went on to become one of Wales’ most famous singers, best known for voicing the theme song for three James Bond films.Former rugby player Billy Boston is another well-known figure with roots in Tiger Bay.About 20 metres to your left are some steps to join the waterfront. Head down these and turn right at the bottom to continue along the Bay trail. Stop when you reach Iantos Shrine.
Ianto's Shrine
Transcript: In front of you is Ianto's Shrine, a board of messages in memory of Ianto Jones.From the shrine, you might think that Ianto is a real person, but he was actually a fictional character in Torchwood, the BBC TV show I mentioned back at the Water Tower earlier.The shrine was founded by fans who couldn't come to terms with the death of their beloved character and, more than a decade after the show finished airing, it’s still going strong.Torchwood is one of several popular BBC dramas made here in Cardiff. Others include Doctor Who, Casualty, Pobol y Cwm, Merlin, and Sherlock.Most of these are filmed and produced over at Roath Lock Studios, a large BBC studio complex not far from here, near the Norweigan Church where we began the tour.Follow the Bay Trail around and stop near the cafe on stilts over the water.
Queue Sheds
Transcript: Cardiff docklands wasn’t just for goods, some passenger services also ran from here.The cafe on stilts over the water was previously a queue shed. From here, paddle steamers would pick up passengers to take them across the Bristol Channel to Weston Super Mare. A journey that would have taken just 40 minutes so it was a popular day trip due to the great pier and attractions at the other end.Services like this continued until the 1960s when the Severn Bridge opened between England and Wales. This cut journey times by road and made driving a better option. Today, no passenger boat services operate across the Bristol Channel.Stay on this path and continue onto the boardwalk until you reach the viewpoint with the panorama stone.
Panorama Stone
Transcript: This is one of the best viewpoints in Cardiff Bay. Before we look across the water, do you see the circular monument on the floor? This is the Panorama Stone. It’s like a compass, pointing in the direction of places around the world that have an important link with Cardiff and Wales.Places on the compass include Patagonia in South America which is the only Welsh-speaking settlement outside of Wales, Baltimore in the USA where there’s a small place also called Cardiff with a strong Welsh heritage, and Norway which has many ties with the old docks here at Cardiff Bay as I’ve shared with you today.Now, look out across Cardiff Bay. Can you see some white sails in the distance? This marks the Cardiff Bay Barrage, an essential part of the Bay’s regeneration project.Prior to the barrage, Cardiff Bay was tidal. When the tide came in, the bay was picturesque, but when the tide was out, it exposed extensive mudflats which were deemed to be ugly.In 1999, the barrage was built. This 8-metre high, 1km-long structure in the water acts like a dam to retain water from the river Ely and river Taff, essentially turning Cardiff Bay into a large freshwater lake with permanent high water.Thanks to the barrage, there is now a 10km circular walking and cycling route around the Bay called the Bay Trail, part of which we’ve walked along today.That brings us to the end of today’s tour. I look forward to joining you on another Audiowalk soon.
