St Collen's Church
Transcript: Welcome to this Audiowalk where we’ll explore the town of Llangollen.You should be standing outside St Collens Church. The town takes its name from St Collen, a monk who came here in the 6th or 7th century. After an unhappy life in Glastonbury, he arrived along the River Dee by boat and established a hermitage and chapel right here.At the time, it is said that a warlord terrorised the community. According to legend, she was a flesh-eating female living near horseshoe pass, around 5 miles away. St Collen slew the villain with his sword and bought peace to the valley.The stained glass window in the base of the church tower depicts Saint Collen. He carries the sword he used to slay the warlord and in the background, you can see Horseshoe Pass where she lived.During this tour, I’ll provide clear instructions to help you navigate and the audio will automatically play as you approach each stop. You can also use the onscreen map to navigate and choose which audio to play. But the tour works best when you visit each stop in the order I recommend.Now, head over to the three-sided memorial in the churchyard with the fence around it. This memorial is the resting place of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby, better known as the ‘Ladies of Llangollen’. They moved from Ireland to Llangollen in 1780 to escape societal norms and to live peacefully as a couple.The two ladies lived at Plas Newydd, a stone house not far from here. They transformed it into a gothic style with elaborate wood carvings, pointed arches, stained glass windows and an extensive library.Llangollen was an important stop on the route between London and Ireland via Holyhead, so Plas Newydd became a haven for many distinguished guests including Anna Seward, Lord Byron, and, William Wordsworth who even wrote a sonnet about them.We’re not going to visit Plas Newydd on this walking tour, but I recommend that you set aside some time to explore the house and gardens later. The gardens are free to visit but you’ll have to purchase a ticket for the house which contains a museum where you can learn more about the ladies.You’ll notice that the memorial is three-sided, the third side is dedicated to Mary Carryl, their servant and lifelong friend. They held her in such high esteem that they decided the three of them should be buried together. However, notice that her memorial is made of sandstone whereas theirs is Italian marble, so they were never truly equals.Now we’re going to leave the churchyard on the path that leads past the church tower and continue straight down church street.
The Hand Hotel
Transcript: Llangollen grew outwards from St Collens Church so Church Street, where you are walking now, would have been one of the first roads in the town. The old coaching house which is now The Hand Hotel, on your left, is one of the oldest buildings. It’s also said to be the most haunted place in Llangollen.The Hand Hotel is said to be haunted by a former employee who hung himself after finding out that his wife was pregnant with her lover’s child. However, in an unlucky turn of events, she also died in childbirth and is said to haunt another room. I’ll leave you to decide if you believe it.When you reach the corner, turn left down chapel street.As you turn onto chapel street, notice the black and white building on the corner opposite the hand hotel. This is the old post office. You might be able to spot the plaque on the wall.As I mentioned earlier, Llangollen was an important stop on the mail coach route from London to Holyhead where passengers could catch the ferry to Ireland. This put the town firmly on the map and saw many coaching inns and stables open up.In the early days, the journey from London to Holyhead took 48 hours and it came along these streets. But after Great Britain and Ireland were united, the engineer Thomas Telford was drafted in to build what is now known as the A5, reducing the journey time to 14 hours. The new A5 allowed these back streets to be bypassed. It’s the main road that we’ll join at the end of this street. When you reach it, turn right.
The Armoury
Transcript: Immediately after joining the main road, stop and take note of the dark grey building on the opposite side with a black door and three rectangular windows above it.This building is known as the Armoury. Throughout its life, this building has housed many of the town's important facilities. It was originally a jail with two cells, it then became a police station.Later, it was converted into a magistrates court, a town hall and council chambers. It was notably used as an armoury from 1879 which is where it gets its current name.Continue along the main road and take the first right to head down castle street.
Castle Street
Transcript: Castle Street is now the heart of Llangollen town centre, however, you might be surprised to learn that it’s one of the newer streets, only developed in the 1860s. I’m going to talk alot about this period because it was a time of huge growth. The industrial revolution came to Wales earlier than many countries and new industries were quickly established in Llangollen. This saw the town’s population grow rapidly, so a new main street was created where you are now, along with new houses and businesses.As you walk down the street, you’ll see a lot of red brick buildings which can be attributed to this era of growth.Keep walking until you see the large red brick building with Bedyddwyr 1860 inscribed near the top. Cross over the road to stand outside the tourist information centre that now occupies the ground floor.
Y Capel
Transcript: The red brick building in front of you is known as Y Capel, an old chapel built in the 1860s when Llangollen was seeing considerable growth. Note the three distinct arches which indicate that it was built in the Romanesque architectural style.The chapel was built to hold a congregation of around 400 Welsh baptists. This proved more than necessary and as generations went on, the need for chapels of this size declined and it eventually closed.The building was renovated in 2003 and reopened by Sir Kyffin Williams, one of the greatest Welsh painters of the century. It now contains a library, the town’s Tourist Information Centre and some arts and crafts exhibitions.
Llangollen Town Hall
Transcript: Now, take a look at the next building across to the right, with the large clock. This is the old market and town hall.It was also built in the 1860s when Castle Street was being developed but it was placed at this end so that it was still near the older part of the town near the river.. You’ll notice that this building looks quite different to the other buildings around this area. Its tall roof, timber bell house, and arched windows indicate that it’s been built in the Gothic Revival style. This was very fashionable but hadn’t been used elsewhere in Llangollen at the time. The new look was an attempt by the architects at altering the character of the town and expressing a new period in its history.Originally, the downstairs area would have been an open market. However, the large arches have been filled in to create the shops you can see there today.Now, if you can, stand near the tree on the pavement. This is one of the few spots in the town centre where you can see the ruins of Castell Dinas Bran, a medieval castle which sat on top of the hill overlooking the town.On a clear day, you can usually see the ruins by looking to the top of the hill which just pokes out above the white pub on the street corner. Sometimes, the trees can obscure it so I’m also putting a photo on your screen.The castle was built by Gruffydd Maelor II, a prince of Powys Fadog, or northern Powys, in the 13th century. But less than 20 years after being built, when the Welsh were under attack from King Edward I, they burnt down their own castle to prevent him from taking it.Although partially repaired, King Edward didn’t want it anyway, and later abandoned it in favour of nearby Holt Castle.The meaning of “Castell Dinas Bran" has been debatedThe meaning of “Castell Dinas Bran" has been debated, with some translating it as Crow Castle and others suggesting it means Bran's Stronghold, with Bran probably being a king or prince around the time. Either way, the panoramic views from the castle ruins are well worth the hike up the hill.Now, take a left turn to go down parade street. Cross the road when it’s safe and I’ll meet you outside the round grey brick building which holds Llangollen museum.
Llangollen Museum
Transcript: Llangollen Museum has been at this venue since 2004. The museum is free to visit and inside, you’ll learn more about the important people I’ve introduced you to today including St Collen, the Ladies of Llangollen, and the Princes of Powys Fadog who built Castell Dinas Bran.If it’s open, take a look inside and look for the museum’s centrepiece, a replica of Eliseg’s Pillar right in the middle. If it’s not open, there is a photo of the real pillar outside.Eliseg’s Pillar is a stone monument outside of Llangollen that once held a wooden cross. It was erected in the 9th century by Cyngen, King of Powys, in memory of his great-grandfather, King Eliseg.Around 500 years after the pillar was built, a monastery was erected nearby for Cistercian monks. The monastery was named Valle Crucis which means ‘Valley of the Cross’, in reference to the cross on top of the pillar which was deemed important.The monastery was built by Madog ap Gruffydd Maelor. We have already been introduced to his father earlier, Gruffydd Maelor II who built Castell Dinas Bran.The abbey was the last of 14 Cistercian foundations to be built in Wales. Their monasteries were built in remote locations where the monks and lay brothers combined an austerely religious life with farming on outlying estates.Although now a ruin, Valle Crucis Abbey is still one of the best-preserved medieval abbeys. You can visit it for yourself around five minutes from here by car.Now back to the tour, take the right turning immediately after the museum.
The Corn Mill
Transcript: As you follow this road around, you’ll spot The Corn Mill. This is one of my favourite spots to enjoy a drink in Llangollen since the decking area offers a perfect view up the river. Stop outside The Corn Mill while I tell you about it.As the name suggests, this building used to house a corn mill which would have been powered by a water wheel in the River Dee. As you can tell from the datestone on the front of the building, the present mill was constructed in 1786 by Trevor Lloyd, but a mill stood here for many centuries before this.Remember at the last stop I told you about the monks from Valle Crucis Abbey? Well, it was the monks from this abbey who built the original corn mill here to provide flour for the town.Centuries later, when the industrial revolution came around, improved transport links and developments in machinery meant that the river could be used to make other materials too. Cotton and wool mills popped up around the town in the 1860s. This was the time when Llangollen's population grew significantly.But by the twentieth century, the industry began to decline and many of the factories closed down. By this point, Llangollen had earned its name as a tourist destination with visitors enjoying the natural beauty of the area and the heritage of the town.Now, follow the road around to rejoin Castle Street and stop on the corner.
Ham & Egg Square
Transcript: The buildings on your right, which are mostly independent shops, sit on castle square. In the 19th century, it had a different name, ham & egg square. It was a popular place for drivers, passengers and horses to stop off on the journey to Holyhead before catching the ferry across to Ireland.The buildings were originally cottages and the residents cooked simple meals for the travellers, most likely using ham and eggs. The square became even more popular after the railway opened as it was the first spot that hungry tourists would reach.One of the buildings, Cottage Tearooms & Bistro, is still serving visitors today. Talking of the railway, we’re going to head towards it shortly. But first, I’ll meet you in the middle of the bridge, sticking to the left side of the road.
Barbers Hill and Llangollen Bridge
Transcript: As you approach the bridge, let me tell you about one of Llangollen’s notorious past residents; Thomas Edwards, who was the town barber and also head of the local school back in the 1730s.He was easily angered and after a dispute with his wife, supposedly about the roasting of mutton, he drew his razor across her throat and killed her, leaving the schoolchildren to discover her dying body.The barber tried to run away, but he was chased by a group of locals and was caught washing himself at a nearby spring. Look upstream of the river to the nearest hill, this is where he was condemned to be hung. It’s known as 'Moel y Barbwr', or 'The Barber’s Hill' ever since.By now, you should now be standing in the middle of the bridge, a historic structure that spans the River Dee.The current stone bridge dates to 16th century, although it’s likely that a crossing has been here since 1284, just after Valle Crucis Abbey was built.Believe it or not, the bridge is considered to be one of the seven wonders of Wales. This is according to an anonymous poem written by an English traveller in the late 18th century.The bridge has been expanded several times, doubling in width to accommodate modern traffic and extended in length over the railway lines.The railway station on the other side of the bridge is going to be our next stop.
Llangollen Railway
Transcript: By the end of the 19th century, Llangollen already had a busy canal, which we’ll see shortly, and excellent roads thanks to Thomas Telford’s A5. But the development of the local mining industry meant that a railway was essential to the region's economic success.In 1859 the Vale of Llangollen Railway was born. It left the Shrewsbury to Chester main line near Ruabon and ended at the station you see here.Now that Llangollen had the trio of road, rail, and canal links, it was the perfect recipe for the town's expansion so other industries began to take off during the 1860s, as well as a thriving visitor economy.After 100 years or so of operation, the line ended up being closed due to government cuts. But part of it is now operated by the Llangollen Railway Trust as a tourist attraction. The station around you is made up of the original Victorian buildings that have been refurbished.Talking of the canal, let’s head up and take a look. Cross the road and find the passageway up to the wharf.
Llangollen Wharf
Transcript: You should now be stood on Llangollen Wharf. In front of you, you’ll see the Llangollen canal, formerly known as the Ellesmere canal, which was the third link in the chain making Llangollen one of the best-connected towns in North Wales.When work began in the late 18th century, the grand idea was a canal network from Liverpool down to Shrewsbury.But after parts of the canal had been built, the project was deemed too expensive and the rest was abandoned.Luckily for the people of Llangollen, the stretch from here to Trevor had already been completed and turned out to be very successful for the local economy, allowing freight to be carried along the canal.The building next to you, which now houses the boat trip company, would have originally been a warehouse. This was built later in the 19th century when industry was taking off and would have handled goods coming in and out of the town on the canal. You can still see the crane which was used to load and unload goods. Now walk along the canal path past the crane.
Llangollen Basin
Transcript: On the opposite side of the canal, you’ll see Llangollen basin. This is another part of the canal where cargo would have been loaded or unloaded but is now a spot for mooring canal boats.If you continue walking alongside the canal in this direction for 45 minutes, you would reach horseshoe falls. This is where the canal begins with a 140m horseshoe-shaped weir which channels water from the River Dee into the canal.I recommend visiting although you don’t need to walk all the way there. You’ll find a car park nearby and a large grassy hill which is great for enjoying a picnic on a sunny day.Travelling in the opposite direction along the canal would lead you to the famous Pontcysyllte aqueduct, a huge 307m long bridge which carries the canal over the River Dee. At 38m tall, it’s the tallest aqueduct in Great Britain and was an enormous feat of engineering when it was built by a familiar name, Thomas Telford.As road and rail became faster and cheaper, traffic on the canals declined and owners of the Llangollen canal, which by then was ironically one of the rail companies, did not maintain it so it became unusable but had to stay open because the water from it fed into other waterways.Fast forward to today, the canal has now been restored as a tourist attraction and even has UNESCO status, protecting it as a feat of civil engineering from the Industrial Revolution.Continue along the path until you see the pavilion on your left.
Llangollen Pavilion
Transcript: The building coming into view on your left with the large white roof is Llangollen Pavillion.This is where the Llangollen International Eisteddfod is held each year. There are many ‘Eisteddfodau’ across Wales, it simply means a cultural festival with music and poetry.But this one is special because it’s an independent competition celebrating song and dance from around the world.It's been running since 1947. Each year there are more than 20 competitions with thousands of performers taking part from over 50 countries. In the evenings, there are concerts from more established artists.The most notable performer to grace the festival's stage was the renowned Italian opera tenor Pavarotti who attended in 1955 and 1995. More recently, headliners have included Status Quo, the Kaiserchiefs, and UB40.The festival has also been attended by Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh, as well as Prince Charles, now King Charles II, and his late wife Diana, Princess of Wales. Not bad for a small market town festival.That brings us to the end of today's tour. I look forward to joining you on another Audiowalk soon.
Directions: Turn Right
DIRECTIONS: Turn right at the end of chapel street
