Safety Instructions
Welcome aboard Autopia Tours! Before you set out on your adventure in the Red Center, I'd like to share some important safety information with you so you can have a safe and enjoyable experience.Safety and seat belts: In Australia, it is a legal requirement to wear a seatbelt whenever the vehicle is in motion. This is all the more important as our wildlife is unpredictable and animals can sometimes appear on the roads unexpectedly. Wearing a seatbelt is an essential safety measure in the unlikely event of an accident, as it protects you and those around you.Emergency exits: In the event of an emergency, if I am unable to help you directly, please note the following emergency exits: The door you entered through The roof exit (which can be freed by pushing it upwards) Either of the emergency windows, which can be broken with the red glass hammer on board.First aid: This vehicle is equipped with two first aid kits: A large kit, which remains on board A smaller kit, which your guide will take with him on hikes or excursions outside the bus. Your guide is fully trained in first aid with access to emergency communications, so if you need help, please let them know immediately, and they will help you if necessary.Communication in remote areas:Some of the areas we visit can be very remote and the telephone service is not always available. To ensure your safety, we have satellite phones on board, stored in a box at the front of the vehicle. In an emergency, your guide will usually use the satellite phone, but if they are unable to do so, you can use the phone by following the instructions inside the box. Simply dial 000 (Australian emergency number) or use one of the pre-recorded numbers to reach Autopia management.The satellite phone will also be carried on hikes by your guide, with the first aid kit.Dehydration and heat stroke: The most common conditions we treat on tour are dehydration and heat-related illnesses. The combination of heat and physical activity can sometimes take you by surprise, so stay alert.Be sure to follow your guide's instructions on how much water is required and if you start to feel unwell, let them know immediately.We recommend drinking 1 litre of water per person, per hour of activity, to stay hydrated in the Red Centre. This can mean up to 3 litres per day. It's also recommended to wear light clothing that covers the body, sunscreen, a wide brimmed hat when outdoors and to take breaks in the shade whenever possible.If you do feel unwell, please don’t hesitate to tell your guide. Part of the first aid kit are electrolytes, to help with rehydration in emergency circumstances.Water Awareness: While we don’t have any crocodiles in Central Australia, our waters aren’t without dangers.To ensure you stay safe, please follow these guidelines: Be aware the fresh waters we swim in can be deep and cold, this can affect your ability to stay afloat. Let your guide know if you are not a strong swimmer. Rocks and hidden dangers can be found just underneath the surface of the water. For this reason we advise not jumping into the water at any time.Comfort onboard: The air conditioning and music are there to keep you comfortable during your journey. If you wish to change the temperature or the music, don't hesitate to let the guide know.With that, sit back, relax and get ready for an unforgettable adventure on our journey today. We're delighted to have you on board and look forward to showing you the beauty of the Red Centre!
Acknowledgement to Country
I will begin today with acknowledging the local Arrernte people, and pay respects to their elders past, present and emerging. The Arrernte are the traditional custodians of the land that we visit and are departing from today. We also pay respects to the West Arrernte people, whose country we are so lucky to travel through today visiting Tjorita. We acknowledge and pay respects to all Aboriginal & Torres Straight Islanders of this great country. In their language, Arrernte, they welcome you by saying “Anwerne Mparntwe-arenye tyerrtye mapele arrenhantherre welcome-ileme apmere anwerne-kenhe-werne”.
Alice Spring’s History
As we depart from Alice springs, I would like to introduce you Mparntwe (pronounced ‘M-barn-twa’), the Arrernte word for Alice Springs as it was known for around 30,000 years prior to settlement.The creation creature for Mparntwe is the yeperenye or caterpillar. As we enter and follow the ranges today, you will see how the processional caterpillar made its way through this area in creation time and hear the stories of how they formed the mountains we see.It was the huge task of forging a pathway for an overland telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin that brought the first explorers through this region. The telegraph line would link Australia to the global telegraph network and cut down communication with England from months to days spurring development of the continent. Scottish explorer John Mcdouall Stuart and his expedition party were some of the first to explore the region. The party took 6 attempts to make it to the northern coastline and for some time they worked from a water hole near the later established Telegraph repeater station, The small settlement was originally called Stuart, but it was renamed Alice Springs when the Australian Overland Telegraph Line repeater station was built. Sir Charles renamed the town after his wife, Alice Todd and Springs for a water source they believed existed nearby but soon dried up in times of drought. So the town would be named after a lady that would visit and a water source that did not exist.Water or “kwatye” is an extremely precious resource in the area and as they would come to find, the seasonality and lack of permanent water sources would make Central Australia an unforgiving landscape to establish.The area would soon become home people searching to make their fortune in the gold rush, cattle kings developing pastoral country, explorers looking for the elusive inland sea or to make a pathway west, workers for the telegraph line and development of the Ghan Railway and all of the services to support such development, turning this area into a thriving hub.
Royal Flying Doctors (Information Only)
If you look to your left, we are passing the final resting place of Rev John Flynn at the base of Mount Gillen. To understand this man's incredible contribution to bettering the lives of those who live in remote Australia, we’re going to step back in time to hear the remarkable story of Jimmy Darcy. The events that sparked the creation of one of Australia’s most treasured institutions, the Royal Flying Doctor Service.The story begins in 1917, deep in the rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia where Jimmy Darcy, a 29-year-old stockman was working on a Ruby Plains Station. While mustering cattle, he was thrown from his horse, suffering severe internal injuries. With no doctors nearby, his brothers loaded him onto a wooden cart and started the 40km trip into Halls Creek by horseback. This was the closest town but with no medical facilities available they did what they could and headed to the Post Master. Fred Tuckett was known as WBL – which stood for a ‘whole Bloody lot’. Tuckett was postmaster, telegraph operator and magistrate, as well as the births deaths and marriages registrar, commissioner for roads and protector of Aborigines. He was also known as the man who held the most amount of medical knowledge in the area. Tuckett knew enough to understand Jimmy had severe internal injuries and made the call via telegraph to Dr John Holland’s office. Holland advised him that the only chance of survival was to operate. With nothing more than a pen knife, a small amount of morphine and occasional guidance from Dr John Holland 2400km away. On the 2nd August 1917, during the chaos of the first World War, all news stopped and the WA lines were kept open for what was termed as Operation Telegraph. The operation stretched into the night but initially it was a huge success under the conditions, however Tuckett was still concerned for the young man's welfare and asked Dr Holland to come to Halls Creek. So, Holland embarked on an incredible 7400km round trip from Fremantle that would see him travel via cattle ship to Derby, then by Model T Ford across the desert till it gave up and then by horse back the final few kilometers. He would arrive only to find that Jimmy had died the day before. Holland was determined to make use of his time in the small remote town and he set about teaching first aid and doing medical examinations, when he left he vowed to return but said “Maybe next time, I’ll Fly”.When the story of Jimmy Darcy stopped the nations, Reverend John Flynn, a Presbyterian minister, was already working to improve conditions in remote Australia and had established the Australian Inland Mission, but Jimmy Darcy’s story gave his mission a new focus: delivering medical care to the most remote corners of the country. Flynn envisioned a service that combined radio communication to provide medical advice and bring doctors to patients, rather than the other way around.Adding momentum to the idea that Flynn had started, Lieutenant Clifford Peel, a young medical student and WW1 pilot had read about Flynn’s vision and wrote him a letter in 1917. In this letter he detailed how aviation could transform healthcare delivery in the Outback. He suggested using surplus planes from World War I for medical emergencies, sparking Flynn’s imagination. Tragically, Peel died in combat shortly after sending the letter, but his ideas became the foundation of Flynn’s plan for a flying ambulance.After many years of hard work and raising support, the first Royal Flying Doctors flight took off on May 17th 1928 from Cloncurry Queensland to Julia Creek Station in a plane provided by Qantas Airlines. This successful flight led to a permanent RFDS base being set up in Cloncurry. Flynn died in 1951 and his loss was mourned by all Australians, his ashes were buried at the base of Mt Gillen. Flynn would often remark to his contributions, “If you start something worthwhile nothing can stop it.”Today RFDS has 23 aero bases, a fleet of 79 planes and 4 primary healthcare facilities providing 24 hour support to Australians across 7.69 million square kilometres of remote country.
Simpsons Gap
Our first official stop is at Simpsons Gap or Rungutjirpa, home to the giant goanna ancestors. Here we will take a short walk through the towering cliffs of Simpsons range. This is a permanent waterhole that has significant spiritual meaning to the West Arrernte women and is a perfect place to capture quiet reflective moments while spotting resident wildlife.As it is early in the morning we might be lucky enough to spot the Black footed rock wallaby as they spring through the rocky terrain having their breakfast and soaking up the morning sun. These adorable creatures feed on the native flora but their favourite snack is the Rock Fig or Ficus Platypoda. This area is a haven to over 40 endemic and relict plants and this has contributed to the area being protected under Commonwealth Law as a National park since 1992.As this water hole is a sacred site we ask that you please do not enter the water or swim. There will be plenty of opportunities to swim later in the day.
Sacred Water
While this site is a woman's sacred site, water holes in central Australia have always been deemed sacred for many reasons. The most important being it’s vital role in sustaining life, both physically and spiritually.The average rainfall in Central Australia is around 280mm per year. The water runs down the ranges into ancient river systems and is captured in low lying areas like Simpsons Gap where the water table is a lot higher than the surrounding area. Such little rainfall can mean that preserving permanent water holes for drinking only can mean the difference between life and death in the peak of summer. The precious water also feeds plant and animal life providing seasonal but year round food for people living off the country.Water is always deeply intertwined into the local cultural stories with water bodies being connected to different ancestral beings. The Wanampi, or the Rainbow serpent is the provider of water and protector of water holes in this region and she resides within each one.Indigenous Australians have and share with us a deep understanding of water's role in this harsh eco system and have managed with sustainable water management practices for thousands of years. Unfortunately the introduction of hooved animals with pastoralism compromised these practices until the area was protected as a national park.
Standley Chasm
Welcome to Standley Chasm, Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water. This stunning natural landmark has been carved over millions of years by the forces of wind and water. It’s not just a geological marvel but also a place of deep cultural and spiritual significance to the Western Arrernte people. Traditionally, it’s been a women’s dreaming site, where stories of creation and spiritual knowledge are passed down through generations.Standley Chasm is a narrow gorge formed by the constant flow of water over the ancient sandstone range, down through cracks formed by the dramatic uplift of the ranges 350 million years ago. The sheer rock walls, which tower 80 meters high over the pathway, have a dramatic red glow at midday when the sun sits directly above the chasm.With time for a quick stop at the toilets or cafe for a takeaway coffee, your guide will check you in and meet you at the entry gate . The 1.2km trail follows the natural creek along an easy path before rock hopping deep into the chasm, where we will sit and absorb the natural beauty of the area, unique flora and fauna that thrives in this hidden oasis and appreciate the connection between the land and the culture it sustains.Along this walk you’ll see ancient cycads, ghost gums, river red gums and native grasses. Keep an eye out for wildlife too—wallabies, lizards, and a variety of birds make this place their home. There is a range of interpretive signs along the path that explain these natural wonders as we discover them.You might be wondering why the English name, Standley Chasm, was chosen. It is not just a name - it honours a woman who made a big impact on the educational system in this region: Ida Standley.Back in 1914, Ida Standley became the first school teacher in Alice Springs. She travelled hundreds of kilometers by train, braving the harsh desert to reach what was then just a tiny settlement called Stuart.She worked at a place called The Bungalow, teaching both European and Aboriginal children - a decision that caused a lot of controversy at the time, because many people didn’t believe in educating children equally. But Ida did, she saw potential in every child. She stood by her belief that “all children have essentially the same heart, the same nature” and that her students of all ‘types’ were “quite up to average, and, in fact, one or two were more than ordinarily bright”. She worked tirelessly to care for and educate them, often going well beyond her duties as a teacher.In her later years, when The Bungalow was moved out here to Jay Creek - not far from where we stand today - she continued to work in very poor conditions, including spending a summer in a tent, all while suffering from heart problems. Despite this, she kept going until a replacement could be found.Her dedication didn’t go unnoticed. In 1929, she was awarded the Member of the Order of the British Empire for her work with children. And it was the couple who succeeded her - The Kramers - who suggested this chasm be named in her honour. That is how this place became Standley Chasm, a tribute to a woman of courage, compassion, and unshakable commitment to the young people of Central Australia.
The Cattle King
We are currently passing through Owen Springs Reserve, a place that is deeply tied to the Story of The Cattle King, Sidney Kidman. The journey from rags to riches began as a teenager, when he left home with a book of matches, a penny and one eyed horse. Kidman had a knack for business and at 13 he started work as a drover quickly learning the ways of the land. He would work his way through a series of buy and sell business ventures before he had a very successful butcher business in Queensland. This business would be sold to buy his very first cattle station in 1886 at the age of 29.When he purchased it, the station was isolated, remote and unforgiving - Everything you would expect from an outback station and Kidman thrived. He quickly identified the Hugh River as an important water source that would be critical to grazing healthy cattle. He had a unique ability to adapt to the environment around him and create solutions where others couldn't. This included his long term vision for developing a reliable stock route where he would own the majority of the land that he mustered cattle on from far north of the Northern Territory, through Central Australia, Queensland and down to market in the southern states. Buying up stations one at a time, strategically in places with good water and food, to create a mustering pathway that allowed him to deliver fat healthy cattle to market with very little cost. It also enabled him to move cattle vast distances in times of drought, when others couldn’t, solidifying him as a pioneer in the pastoral industry.By the early 1900’s he owned over 100 properties and 100million acres, a pastoral empire that was bigger than most countries. Kidman Holdings would be the single largest private land owner in the history of Australia, with over 3% of the country being in his holdings. Kidman would say that his success wasn’t just about owning land, it was about innovation and resilience. He would introduce methods to manage water, rotating stock, and introducing motor vehicles to complement traditional mustering. He would support communities, provide employment and supplies during tough times, donate cattle and funds during the first World War and cement his position as the Cattle King.By the time he passed away in 1935, Kidman’s legacy was unparalleled in Australian history. From this remote station, Sidney Kidman forged an empire that not only shaped the pastoral industry but also helped define the spirit of resilience and ingenuity Central Australia is known for. Owen Springs Station was purchased from Kidman Holdings in 2000 and opened as Owen Springs reserve in 2003.
Ellery Creek Big Hole
As we turn into Ellery Creek Big Hole, we are entering one of the most loved local spots. This incredible place has a beautiful white sand beach, stunning swimming hole and the opportunity to swim through ancient towering gorge walls.Over thousands of years this gorge has been carved out by massive floods, with the waterhole changing shape every year. Even with constant change, this water hole has remained a permanent source of water in the area. It is deep and very close to the water table, meaning it remains full and even in the harshest of droughts it can sustain flora, fauna and life for people living off the land. Udepata as it is known to the Arrernte people, is an important meeting place on the fish and honey dreaming trails.It is also home to sections 6 and 7 of the 231km Larapinta Trail Hike, from Alice Springs Telegraph Station through to the peak of Mount Sonder. This world renowned hike sees over 5000 hikers trek for up to 14 days through the remote and challenging terrain.We will take a short 500m walk to the water hole, where you can swim if you wish to. Please be cautious though, as it is extremely cold and gets deep quickly. Even people with strong swimming skills can struggle in the extreme cold fresh water.
Ochre Pits
Our next stop is for a short walk at the Ochre pits. We will follow the easy winding pathway to a viewing platform where we can see an important cultural site for the Arrernte people. This colourful outcrop of ochre on the banks of the sandy creek was pushed up around 350 million years ago. The surrounding land has been eroded away in the extreme weather exposing sedimentary layers of siltstone with varying levels of mineral that give varied and vibrant colors to the stone. Ranging from white, yellow, orange, reds and browns, certain colours were considered more valuable than others. If you’re wondering what gives it the amazing colours - it is all down to iron oxide minerals. The red comes from hematite, the more iron it contains and the more it will oxidise, the redder it becomes. It is basically rusting. Yellow ochre comes from limonite, a hydrated iron oxide (meaning it contains water). If limonite is heated, it can even turn into hematite (red). White ochre is usually made of kaolin or clay, which doesn’t contain iron at all, Its white colour comes from the absence of iron impurities. Over millions of years, weathering and chemical reactions between iron, water and oxygen in the ground created these rich colours. The exact shade depends on: the type of iron oxide, the amount of water that was present, and the heat and pressure the rock has been exposed to. That is why different ochre pits across Australia have their own unique colour and texture. These differences were so important that certain ochres were highly prized and traded across thousands of kilometres. This particular site holds an extremely valued commodity that was traded right across australia in trade routes known as “Ntyerle-arle”. It was used in ceremony, on hunting tools, in some medicines, for art that would depict important creation stories and to send messages. It was ground up and mixed with a range of mediums depending on how long it needed to last. Water if it was temporary, animal fat and animal blood for different ceremonies and bees wax if it needed to last for generations.With known fine quality deposits spread as far apart as Arnhemland in the Northern Territory, west to the Murchison region of Western Australia, The West MacDonnell Ranges, all the way to the Flinders Ranges in South Australia. The trading of different types and qualities of ochre between such far flung sites, thousands of years ago, is truly remarkable. Such feats of courage and endurance (all on foot) are almost impossible to imagine at a time when there were no roads, maps or transport. It would have involved unbelievable hardships in an unforgiving country. Imagine walking hundreds, sometimes thousands of kilometres, with nothing but waterholes and the extensive knowledge of Country to guide you. The ochre was often dampened and pressed into bricks or rolled into balls, to protect and preserve it. Despite the extreme challenges involved in such a trade, the use and variety of ochres in far apart locations across the country, was quite common. When trading did occur, pituri or bush tobacco was a common exchange item, as well as tools (boomerangs, spears, flints, stone axe heads), feathers, bush foods or different coloured ochre. It is known that trading parties of 70 or 80 men (sometimes recorded even up to 300 men) would travel many hundred of kilometers. Women did not participate in these trading journeys, though they would use the ochre for ceremonial purposes once it arrived. It is important to remember that not everyone could take ochre from this site. Access was strictly governed by traditional law. Only certain people could collect and use the ochre. Even today, those traditional laws and stories are still respected. As this is a sacred site and we are visitors to this area, we must respect the Arrernte people’s request to not touch, grind or take any ochre from this site. There are cameras in place and offenders can be fined up to $5000.
Sonder Lookout & Finke River
We are going to make a 5 minute stop at a lookout to take in views of Mount Sonder and the ancient Finke River.Mount Sonder is known as Rutjupma to the Arrernte people and is deeply ingrained in the cultural stories in this part of the country. Teaching about kinship and the importance of family. At 1380m above sea level it is the fifth tallest peak in the Northern Territory but it is the final peak in the 231km Larrapinta trail. Hikers ascend this trail in the darkness of the early morning before enjoying sunrise from the top as the finale of their efforts along the trail.Stemming from deep within the ranges, The Finke river or “Larapinta” is cited as the oldest living river in the world. Its origins were long before this mountain range was pushed up 350 million years ago. Even though the uplift was significant, potentially lifting the ranges up to 9km high in the sky, and the erosion since has been dramatic, the river's path has been largely unchanged. This is an extremely rare geological feature. It flows from this point in the Northern Territory, down into the desert of South Australia. In rare flooding events it can even reach Lake Eyre.The Finke River is part of the massive Lake Eyre basin, a drainage basin that covers almost one-sixth of mainland Australia. But unlike most river systems, this one is endorheic, meaning it doesn't flow to the sea. It drains inwards, into low-lying salt lakes like Lake Eyre. In other words, it is a closed system - and that makes it incredibly unique. Among all the rivers of the Lake Eyre Basin, the Finke stands out for a few reasons. It flows entirely through the arid zone, making it the longest river of its kind (600km) in Australia. It is also the largest isolated river system in Central Australia, it is hydrologically cut off from its neighbours most of the time.Because the Finke River no longer connects to other river systems, its plant and animal life - especially its fish species (three of which are endemic to the region)- have become self-sustaining and unique. They rely on permanent waterholes in places like Glen Helen Gorge and Palm Valley to survive the long droughts.The Arrernte name for the Finke, Lhere Pirnte, literally means ‘salty river’. That is because natural salinity is a strong feature in parts of the system. Over millions of years, minerals from ancient seabeds and surrounding rocks have leached into the soil and groundwater. You can find salt crusts and saline pools in parts of the Finke, particularly where evaporation is high.
Ormiston Gorge
Our final stop on the tour is Ormiston Gorge or Kwartatuma. This incredible gorge is the perfect place for a final swim, a short hike up the towing red walls to the Ghost Gums Lookout or to sit and spot the local flora and fauna.Amongst the lizards, wallabies and prolific bird life live two very small and quiet survivors of this harsh environment. The Long-tailed Dunnart and the Central Rock Rat were thought to be extinct, having not been seen in the area for a number of years. That was until small colonies were spotted in 1997, since a conservation and management plan carried out by the local rangers has meant this is a protected home for the cute little creatures. The waterhole is a near permanent water source in the area but this can change from year to year with erosion and flood moving the landscape dramatically as waters flow through the bends of the gorge. When swimming, please be careful of cold deep waters and rocks submerged just under the water.Please make use of the facilities here (Toilets and Cafe) and take the opportunity to stretch your legs for the final time today. When we load back into the bus we will be taking a direct route back to Alice Springs, dropping you off at approximately 6pm.
Yipperniye Dreaming
Arrernte people’s spirituality is intimately connected to the land and its natural features. In Arrernte tradition, every mountain peak, hill and creek of Mparntwe and through Larapinta holds spiritual significance.These sites were established during the creation period when powerful ancestral beings shaped the land. The caterpillar ancestors were the major creative forces for this area, and three powerful caterpillars, yeperenye, utnerrrengatye and ntyarike are amongst the most sacred and important of all Arrernte totems. These ancestors came from many different places and travelled widely across central Australia. Groups of caterpillars travelled from Central Mt Stuart in the north, Mt Zeil in the west, atula to the east and apwetele on the Finke River to the south, converging at Alice Springs or Mparntwe, the epicenter of caterpillar culture.The spectacular mountain range formations to the west of Mparntwe represent some of these travelling caterpillars. They join head to tail as they come from the east, just as real caterpillars often do when travelling.The creation ancestors, their struggles and adventures, are preserved and celebrated through oral tradition and the maintenance of sacred sites. At Mparntwe, the yeperenye caterpillars fought battles with the irlperenye (green beetle men). Yeperenye hurled insults at the ‘stinky’ beetle men and the irlperenye retaliated, beheading many of the intruders. They have been mortal enemies ever since and the green ‘stink’ beetles are often seen attacking the juicy caterpillars with great ferocity.In the words of Rosie Furber, traditional custodian of Mparntwe “In olden times, old people used to get all the yeperenyes and prepare them in a certain way, I remember that. They put them in a specially dug hole and they get rid of all the insides in a ceremonial way. Then they make a fire and cooking the yeperenye they have a certain way of cooking it up and gathering them and putting them in a coolaman. They wait around until it cools and they would share it out with their families, first to the traditional owners, then to the kids, then to everyone else.”This story and these words are an important recording of history, with indigenous culture being handed down through oral tradition, a significant amount of this history has been lost with settlement of the area. While creating the Sculptures at the Araluen Art Centre, they were able to capture this story before it was lost to time. Capturing these stories allows them to be taught to the next generation, long after the elders have passed.
Tour Conclusion and Thank You
As we travel back to Alice Springs, through this incredible country we would like to thank you for travelling with us today. We hope that you have enjoyed exploring the Red Centre and learning a little about our vast and beautiful backyard. There are many other adventures you can enjoy while you are visiting the Northern Territory so feel free to ask your guide about these, we hope you will choose to travel with Autopia Tours again.If you’ve enjoyed your adventure with us, please tell the world by leaving a review on Google Reviews, Trip Advisor, or your travel booking platform. Enjoy the rest of your visit to the Red Centre!
